Dear All, Mark Mazer sent the introduction to me for this topic of the week so I am posting it for him. It's a good companion to last week's topic for those of you who live in cold climates. Like Mark I hope a number of you will tell us if you try to grow tender bulbs, how you do it. It's impressive to see all the things that Mark in Zone 5 is able to grow. Mary Sue PBS List Administrator and TOW Coordinator Mary Sue asked me to introduce the TOW: Growing Tender Bulbs in Cold Climates. For the sake of this discussion, I will describe how this hobbyist is growing tender bulbous plants and hope that others will add their experiences. Six years ago we erected a 12' x 24' x 9' aluminum greenhouse glazed with dual wall polycarbonate sheet (8mm). The ridge is oriented North-South. Heat is supplied by propane gas. Costs have ranged from $300 to $600 per year. Back-up heat is supplied by kerosene heaters. There are manually operated ridge vents and an exhaust fan on the gable end with two intake vents on the opposite gable. Heat is set to go on at 40F, essentially keeping all parts of the greenhouse frost free, rarely will the coldest spots near the floor go below freezing. Fifty percent shade cloth is used from April to October. The floor is stone dust. Staging is welded angle iron topped with galvanized wire fencing cut and bent to go over the frame. Ten inch deep containers were made from HDPE sheet and filled with coarse sand to create plunge benches. The winter bulb growing year starts for us sometime in mid September when that first cold front moves through and we water the pots. Starting with only Lachenalia viridiflora the first year, there are now several hundred species. Bloom begins with Syringodea longituba in October. Favorite genera include; Geissorhiza, Lapierousia, Lachenalia, Sparaxis, Babiana, Romulea, Moraea, Ixia and Hesperantha. Most of the plants are grown in a sand/peat/perlite mix in deep square plastic pots (clay for those that go into the plunge) with a wad of long fiber sphagnum moss in the bottom. We fertilize with an organic based bulb fertilizer before growth starts, and sporadically after that with Miracle Grow, seaweed or fish emulsion. Pots are stored dry under the plunge benches, replacing the summer growers in dry storage. Most of the blooming pots are densely packed together on the West side of the greenhouse creating a little patch of South African countryside. Repotting and most seed sowing is done during the summer. The main disease that I have to contend with is botrytis; pests include aphids, mealy bugs, ants and scale. Several cold frames are used for storage, acclimation, over-wintering marginal bulbs and for forcing tulips and daffodils for the house. Summer bulb season starts in March when Arisaema and others that require dry winter storage come out from under the plunge benches. Plants that don't like to dry out completely are stored under the staging and brought out as necessary. Paris are grown under the staging year round as they have proved tender here during cold, open winters. We also grow some Calochortus, Crocus, Cyclamen, Boophone, Androcymbium, Gladiolus, Gynandriris, Massonia, Velthemia, Watsonia, Wurmbea, Xerophyta, Zantedescia, Pelargonium (tuberous), Sandersonia, Alstromeria, Cyrtanthus, Narcissus, Fritillaria, Iris, Agapanthus, Clivia, Cypella, Amorphophallus. Companion plants that do well for us in the same greenhouse include Vireya, Nematanthus, Cymbidium, Pleione, and a few alpines. Our 30+ year old Platycerium has a special spot. Visitors are welcome by appointment. Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. Gaylordsville, CT 06755-0142 http://www.therapyshapes.com/ USDA Zone 5 Giant Schnauzer Rescue IntarsiaCo@aol.com