Nerine sarniensis culture from Peter Smithers
Mary Sue Ittner (Thu, 02 Sep 2010 08:53:37 PDT)
Hi,
One of the wonderful things about participating in bulb lists is that
you find out there is not one way to grow bulbs and that they can
often be very adaptable. Having said that, I saved advice Sir Peter
Smithers gave on growing these to help people have success with them
and am including it below. He was considered "the expert" on growing
them at one time. It actually speaks to some of the issues we have
been discussing.
Mary Sue
1. Climate. In a temperate climate these plants flower from late
September to December. They produce six leaves from early October
to January. From then until May when they go to rest, they remain
green and are presumably doing important things
underground. During the resting period from May to September in
nature they enjoy diminishing levels of water from deep in the
ground but get no rain at all. As in nature they grow at quite
high altitudes there is a sharp day/night temperature
differential. Flowering is triggered by the drop in temperature in
early autumn, possibly by the steep drop in night temperature.
2. From the foregoing it follows that they can not be grown as a
commercial crop in the open as is the case with N.bowdenii in a
climate which has either substantial winter frost or substantial summer rain.
3. Under glass they are easy enough provided that the above
requirements are respected, but it is a timetable which does not
suit the management of a mixed collection of plants, so that if they
are to be really successful they need a house to themselves. In a
mixed collection of plants they will have to receive individual
attention, being watered and moved into dry quarters or a low
temperature area as necessary, but they are so magnificent in bloom
that they are worth the little extra attention if it can be given.
4. Growth cycle in cultivation. They are easily moved as dry bulbs,
preferably at the beginning of the resting season in May, because at
that time though the foliage is gone there is a new flush of root
growth subsisting in nature on residual moisture deep in the soil.
So on repotting they should be watered by immersion once and then
given only a little water once every couple of weeks until flower
spikes appear. In this way they will immediately form a new set of
roots in the new pot. Watering should be plentiful from flowering
until all six leaves are finished in the New Year, when it should be
given in moderation until it is witheld as the leaves turn yellow.
These are NOT plants which have 'do not disturb' written all over
them. They transplant and repot without difficulty. However their
growth cycle is a long one, the flower being formed within the bulb
a year previous to the cycle in which it will finally emerge as a flower spike.
5. Temperatures etc. While in growth a range of night temperatures
of about 10C to 15C is ideal. The plants will survive temperatures
down to slightly above freezing without harm. Higher night
temperatures are definitely harmful in the growing period, but
during the resting period in summer it does not matter how hot the
plants get though roasting is not necessary. Full sunlight is
essential during the growing period and so is the maximum amount of
ventilation compatible with the temperature range.
5. Materials. I preferred plastc pots which were easier to control
so far as moisture is concerned. Deep pots are preferable, and not
too large. Compost is a matter of controversy. I was never wholly
satisfied with mine. Well drained, with about 25% peat, 25% sharp
sand and good garden soil for the rest. My P/h was slightly acid to neutral.
6. Pests and diseases. Heavy fertilisation releases the virus
which is dormant in these plants. As I did not fertilise at all, I
only once or twice saw virus in any of some thousands of plants.
Research in the wild showed that these plants grow in nature in some
of the world's poorest soils. Attempts to push them for rapid
maturity from seed or cuttage and largest size flower heads or two
spikes per bulb resulted in the near collapse of one large
commercial operation from virus. I only once lost a bulb from insect
attack when mealybug somehow got inside a bulb and my efforts to
destroy it destroyed the bulb as well! Insects are not a problem
with these plants. My greenhouse would never have passed a
phytosanitary inspecton because it was also used for certain things
compatible with the Nerines, i.e. a winter store for
Citrus: Passiflora edulis, Hoya and some scandent Epiphyllums
which housed several enemies which did not trouble the Nerines.
7. Performance. I was satisfied if 85% of flowering size bulbs
bloomed. Possibly a better cultivator could have improved on
that. I was neverwholly satisfied with my culture.