Hey Bob, Thanks very much for the details, I think you have provided important detail so we all can have more success with the process. Mike San Diego On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 7:58 PM Robert Lauf via pbs < pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote: > This is the propagation method of choice for our new Eucomis releases, and > although I'm not sure how many aficionados there are in this forum, allow > me to summarize a few tidbits from personal experience: > Harvest a leaf in mid-summer. If necessary water the plant well the night > before, so the tissue is as well hydrated as possible. > Use a new razor blade so you can cut the sections with very little tissue > damage. Cut the leaf into transverse sections 2-3" long, making the bottom > into a V shape. This is because the leaf is much thicker at the midrib > than at the edges, and it's easier to push into the growing medium without > the thin edges extending all the way down. It also creates more active > area for sprouting. > Stand all the cuttings in a cup of water with Dip-n-Grow at 10:1 dilution > and let them soak for a few minutes. Plant in promix or perlite making > sure the entire cut surface is buried. Keep moist. In promix the pot/flat > can stay on the floor of the greenhouse. In perlite, I put the whole thing > in either a large plastic bag or a clear leftover container. > Note that I prefer the dip solution over Clonex gel, but both can work > OK. Some growers don't use hormone at all and it seems to work. Clonex is > my weapon of choice for woody plant cuttings. > Lately I have tended to use the little leaves at the top of the > inflorescence (the "pineapple" so to speak) rather than slices of the main > leaves, for several reasons:1. If one of the large slices gets rot, you > lose the whole thing, whereas with the top leaves, you have dozens of > individual leaves and if one rots you haven't lost much.2. You can use a > 24-cell tray insert and put one leaf in each, saving yourself the first > thinning/transplanting. > The most important things are good hydration of the plant ahead of time, > and a really sharp blade. Then, keeping an eye on humidity and avoiding > rot. > The attachments show leaf cuttings after bulblets have formed, leaf > cuttings in a bag (this one used Clonex - note the purple stain), and top > cuttings ready to treat and plant. > Sorry if this was long-winded but now you know everything I do on the > matter. > BobEucomis Working Group Zone 7 > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Great White leaf props.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 1443509 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/pipermail/pbs/… > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Crab Nebula leaf props.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 1341273 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/pipermail/pbs/… > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Dusty top cuttings.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 1445709 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/pipermail/pbs/… > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… > Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
