Hi, Max Lilium bolanderi.... Leaves have begun to emerge in the last week >> in both pots, the first sign of life. My interim conclusion is that >> there is no benefit to trying to force this species with a late >> stratification. Up here in Oregon, none of the western americans have started to emerge, though I've been looking every couple days. I normally put seed that is received late (most purchased seed) into the freezer over the summer and plant them in the fall. Germination is higher, and so is survival. Planting (purchased) western american lily seed in a plastic bag of peat & perlite and putting it in the refrigerator results in the seedlings coming out of the refrigerator a couple months later at a time when fall planted seedlings are starting to die down, so the spring planted seed just doesn't get time enough to form a bulblet large enough to survive the hostile summer temperatures. Western american lilies need about two months at 40-45F to form bulblets but do not send up a leaf until conditions warm up to the right range, which is when fluctuating temperatures help the bulblet decide when to send up a leaf. Western american lilies germinate to form a bulblet underground first, before sending up a leaf (this is called hypogeal germination). This contrasts with many lilies which send up a linear "seed leaf" like an onion when they germinate, which is called epigeal germination. Fall planted seed may germinate in the fall, but seems to take no harm from freezing temperatures for the first year or two. Possible exceptions are L. parryi and some forms of L. humboldtii, which don't seem to need as much cool winter weather. L. bolanderi isn't easy, so keep us informed of your experiences, good or bad. Ken