I have worked on learning how to force spring flowering bulbs for years. For me, success depends mostly what conditions I can provide after the bulbs have been lifted out of their chilling chamber. With the hyacinth and muscari cultivars that are usually available for cheap these days, the important factors are cool temps (<55 F) and lots of light. Dell in Zone 5/6 West Virginia From: Nathan Lange Sent: Friday, August 28, 2015 4:43 PM To: Rick Buell via pbs Another option is to try "forcing" some bulbs in pots which would allow you to control the timing of flowering with much more precision. Assuming you have a suitable location for cooling the potted bulbs after they have rooted in for at least a month, you could begin forcing the pots after about 12 to 14 weeks of cooling over a range of time thereby guaranteeing that some are in flower on the desired date, flowering maybe 2 to 3 weeks from the start of forcing depending on the forcing temperature (that is a guess). There is plenty of online info for other spring bulbs, likely less for Puschkinia. I have always found hyacinths and Convallaria to be the easiest. Some keys to success are scheduling, proper rooting before cooling, using as many bulbs that will fit in the pot, weighting the bulbs down while rooting, and, most importantly, correct temperature management from beginning to flower. Nathan At 10:55 AM 8/26/2015, you wrote: >I realize there are so many climatic factors to consider, but >wondered if anyone had a best guess of flowering time for Puschkinia >scilloides var. libanotica >in West Vancouver, British Columbia? My hope is that it will flower >for Iranian New Year (Nowruz) around March 21st. Thank you. > > >- Amelia Sullivan (Zone 8/9) _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/