On 3/27/2020 6:09 PM, Bridget Wosczyna wrote: > I will often use a sharpie and write right on the pot. (On some black pots I’ll use a silver sharpie.) This works great for me with small pots of seed I’m growing as use plastic wrap secured with a rubber band over my arisaema seeds to keep humidity high when germinating. The labels are always too big for the small pots. > My garden looks ghastly with labels all winter. They heave, the squirrels and birds move them around as well. Let’s not talk about the wind... > I've also been writing directly on pots for years. This works quite well, and the writing can be removed with acetone on a rag. Use a glove, and work outside on an overcast day with a bit of a breeze. I also cut the 5" (~12.5 cm) labels in half. One half needs re-tapering. The other needs the top corners rounded, as they can be sharp, which is most easily done with a fine toothed file, a bunch at a time. I fashion the bottom end of both halves to be narrowly blunt, so that the tag will push plant material to the side rather that piercing it. I write the first four letters of the genus at the top of the label, perpendicular to the long axis of the tag. Beneath this are the first four letters of the species. I do this on both sides of the tag. The full name goes further down the label on one side. Other information ( source, # of seeds or plants and planting date) goes on the other side, with enough room for one or two pieces of information as needed. These tags fit almost any pot. The four letter codes are all that stick out of the pot, with the duplicate info safe below ground. Since often nothing is visible for a while whether planting bulbs or seeds, I enclose the # in parenthesis for seeds, and square brackets for bulbs or rhizomes. Hope this helps someone, Dave B. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…