The type plant is not the typical plant but the one first described. Op do 17 feb. 2022 om 13:00 schreef < pbs-request@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > Today's Topics: > > 1. Another try for Phyllobolus resurgens (Carl Frederick) > 2. Membership renewal (Arnold Trachtenberg) > 3. Re: Snowmelt bulbs (Lee Poulsen) > 4. Re: Spray Painting Plastic Flower Pots (Glattstein) (A C) > 5. Re: Snowmelt bulbs (Jane McGary) > 6. Re: Snowmelt bulbs (Jan Jeddeloh) > 7. Re: Spray Painting Plastic Flower Pots (Glattstein) > (Judy Glattstein) > 8. Snowmelt bulbs (Lee Poulsen) > 9. Re: Snowmelt bulbs (Tecophilaea) (Lee Poulsen) > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Carl Frederick <carlfrederick@comcast.net> > To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 07:47:58 -0800 > Subject: [pbs] Another try for Phyllobolus resurgens > Seems that this species doesn’t want attention. > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: image0.jpeg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 981128 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/pipermail/pbs/… > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Arnold Trachtenberg <arnold140@verizon.net> > To: "pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net" <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 17:01:00 +0000 (UTC) > Subject: [pbs] Membership renewal > We are in the process of preparing to mail out post card reminders for > membership renewal. > If you have already renewed thanks so much. If you feel you will not be > renewing let me know via private email and I will not mail a card. > > Messages to Arnold140@verizon.net > > Thanks for all the continued support. > ArnoldTreasurer, PBS > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Lee Poulsen <wpoulsen@pacbell.net> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 14:11:33 -0800 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Snowmelt bulbs > I don’t have an answer to Jane’s question below, but instead another > question. Why is it that some high altitude bulbs can adapt so well to low > altitudes and quite different climates? Tecophilaea cyanocrocus grows at > 3000m/10,000ft in the Andes of Chile. I suspect that they are covered with > snow during the winter. And yet they grow fantastically easily for me here > at basically 1/10 of that altitude in a mediterranean climate where we > never get snow and only rare does it ever go below freezing. And here they > act just like Cape bulbs from the southwestern Cape of South Africa. In > fact, I keep them with my other South African Cape bulbs and grow them and > store them during summer dormancy along with them, such as Lachenalia. They > come out of dormancy all on their own once it gets cool and the winter > rains start to fall. And they multiply easily without any special care. > Each of my pots in the photos I hopefully successfully attached all started > from one bulb from different sources. If I didn’t know their natural > habitat, I wouldn’t have guessed it from their behavior here. > > The other question I have has to do with the different subspecies or > varieties of T. cyanocrocus. The “typical” intense blue one, sometime > called T. c. var. cyanocrocus, is considered the type variety, and the two > other color forms, var. leichtlinii and var. violacea, are considered to be > mere color variations. However, my experience is that the leichtlinii > variety is far more vigorous in every way to the pure blue variety. It > grows more strongly, reproduces more quickly, and blooms far more > frequently and vigorously than the pure blue one (or the violet one). You > can see that in the photos as well which were taken at the same time where > the pots are at opposite ends of the bench they’re on. (The violet ones > hadn’t started blooming yet.) They are treated identically all year round. > It kind of makes me think the leichtlinii variety is the typical species > and the other two varieties were color mutations. The photos in the two > articles I’ve seen showing two different populations in their natural > habitat are hard to discern, but they don’t seem to be mostly the intense > blue form. But maybe the leichtlinii variety also happens to be the most > adapted to low elevation southern California conditions and that’s why they > do so much better for me? > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > > > On Feb 3, 2022, at 3:36 PM, Jane McGary via pbs < > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote: > > > > Snowmelt meadow genera such as Puschkinia and Muscari are perfect > bulb-lawn plants here too. In contrast, such snowmelt plants as Galanthus > platyphyllus, Fritillaria latifolia, Rhodophiala rhodolirion, and Lloydia > serotina have defeated many lowland growers, including me. If any readers > who don't live in high latitudes or altitudes succeed with these, I'd like > to learn how! What are your comments on geophytes that emerge under the lip > of the snowbank and flower before they are overgrown by grasses and tall > perennials? > > > > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: A C <acar12@earthlink.net> > To: <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 14:50:52 -0800 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Spray Painting Plastic Flower Pots (Glattstein) > I doubt that any paint will stay on a super-flexible surface if you flex it > very much. But I often use Rust-Oleum "Universal Bonding Primer" before > top-coating on unusual surfaces. For instance, it will reliably adhere to > galvanized metal, which most paints will not. Some hardware stores carry > it, but you may have to place a special order, or get it online. > > Alan > > Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2022 10:06:52 -0500 > From: Judy Glattstein <jgglatt@gmail.com> > To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > Subject: [pbs] Spray Painting Plastic Flower Pots > Message-ID: <f471a78e-9f49-b22a-0bc2-4ab318850025@gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed > > I have spray painted plastic containers. Best technique is to set up a > spray booth with large opened corrugated cardboard box shielding three > sides. Container to be sprayed is inverted on an upside down bucket - > that's for convenience to get the to-be-sprayed containers up off the > ground. Spray first with a primer for better adhesion, then color for > second and third coats. Goes very quickly. Just choose a calm, not > breezy day. > > Spray the containers white and that should alleviate the over-heating / > getting too dry issues. Won't eliminate, but should help. > > Judy in New Jersey where it is snowing. Forecast has changed from > "ending by 9:00 a.m." to "over by 3:00 p.m." > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Jane McGary <janemcgary@earthlink.net> > To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:03:20 -0800 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Snowmelt bulbs > In answer to Lee's first question, plants that are dormant below snow > cover in winter are not necessarily very cold. Probably at 3000 m in the > Andes, they don't go into winter very moist, either. The sites for > Tecophilaea cyanocrocus (which was believed extinct in the wild for many > years) are not publicly recorded, so I don't know just how they grow, > but I read the report of the rediscovery in the Chilean botanical > journal "Gayana," and they sound like a typical Mediterranean-climate > snowmelt corm, such as one can see, for example, high in the mountains > of Crete. Compare Crocus sieberi from the latter area, which is also a > very adaptable species. (Some snowmelt crocuses are not; I barely > maintain C. alatavicus.) > > The same report in "Gayana" says that "subsp. leichtlinii" with a lot of > white in the throat is the most common form seen in the rediscovered > populations. Tecophilaea violacea is listed in Chilean field guides as a > separate species, not a color form, and it is said to have a different > distribution. Very likely the intense blue form was selected by > European/British growers when wild-collected material was being > imported. During our recent PBS board meeting, Jan Jeddeloh showed a > nice pot grown from seed, and they had a lot of white in them. I've kept > the all-blue forms going, but I started with imported bulbs from a Dutch > supplier some years ago. For comparison with Lee's present flowering, my > plants have not emerged yet this winter. I grow them in an unheated but > covered situation where a few degrees of frost are common in midwinter. > Where I used to live, I had a solarium on the house and tried > Tecophilaea there, but the plants became stretched and floppy; they > looked much better when I moved them to unheated frames. > > Jane McGary, Portland, Oregon, USA > > On 2/16/2022 2:11 PM, Lee Poulsen via pbs wrote: > > I don’t have an answer to Jane’s question below, but instead another > question. Why is it that some high altitude bulbs can adapt so well to low > altitudes and quite different climates? Tecophilaea cyanocrocus grows at > 3000m/10,000ft in the Andes of Chile. I suspect that they are covered with > snow during the winter. And yet they grow fantastically easily for me here > at basically 1/10 of that altitude in a mediterranean climate where we > never get snow and only rare does it ever go below freezing. And here they > act just like Cape bulbs from the southwestern Cape of South Africa. In > fact, I keep them with my other South African Cape bulbs and grow them and > store them during summer dormancy along with them, such as Lachenalia. They > come out of dormancy all on their own once it gets cool and the winter > rains start to fall. And they multiply easily without any special care. > Each of my pots in the photos I hopefully successfully attached all started > from one bulb from different sources. If I didn’t know their natural > habitat, I wouldn’t have guessed it from their behavior here. > > > > The other question I have has to do with the different subspecies or > varieties of T. cyanocrocus. The “typical” intense blue one, sometime > called T. c. var. cyanocrocus, is considered the type variety, and the two > other color forms, var. leichtlinii and var. violacea, are considered to be > mere color variations. However, my experience is that the leichtlinii > variety is far more vigorous in every way to the pure blue variety. It > grows more strongly, reproduces more quickly, and blooms far more > frequently and vigorously than the pure blue one (or the violet one). You > can see that in the photos as well which were taken at the same time where > the pots are at opposite ends of the bench they’re on. (The violet ones > hadn’t started blooming yet.) They are treated identically all year round. > It kind of makes me think the leichtlinii variety is the typical species > and the other two varieties were color mutations. The photos in the two > articles I’ve seen showing two different populations in their natural > habitat are hard to discern, but they don’t seem to be mostly the intense > blue form. But maybe the leichtlinii variety also happens to be the most > adapted to low elevation southern California conditions and that’s why they > do so much better for me? > > > > --Lee Poulsen > > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Jan Jeddeloh <janjeddeloh@gmail.com> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 14:57:47 -0800 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Snowmelt bulbs > Check out this article for a discussion of Tecophilaea cyanocrocus and > its’ color forms. > https://alpinegardensociety.net/plants/… > < > https://alpinegardensociety.net/plants/…> > Go to page 108 for the article. Basically you’re correct that the > leichtlinii variety is the typical species. > > I see Jane beat me to a post. She’s sadly right that most of my > tecophilia are of this form. I of course covet the fully deep blue form, > not that the leichtlinii form is anything to sneeze at. Does anyone know a > commercial source of reliably dark blue forms? I’d keep them separate and > hand pollinate them. > > Lee, do yours reproduce vegetatively? > > Jan > > > On Feb 16, 2022, at 2:11 PM, Lee Poulsen via pbs < > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote: > > > > I don’t have an answer to Jane’s question below, but instead another > question. Why is it that some high altitude bulbs can adapt so well to low > altitudes and quite different climates? Tecophilaea cyanocrocus grows at > 3000m/10,000ft in the Andes of Chile. I suspect that they are covered with > snow during the winter. And yet they grow fantastically easily for me here > at basically 1/10 of that altitude in a mediterranean climate where we > never get snow and only rare does it ever go below freezing. And here they > act just like Cape bulbs from the southwestern Cape of South Africa. In > fact, I keep them with my other South African Cape bulbs and grow them and > store them during summer dormancy along with them, such as Lachenalia. They > come out of dormancy all on their own once it gets cool and the winter > rains start to fall. And they multiply easily without any special care. > Each of my pots in the photos I hopefully successfully attached all started > from one bulb from different sources. If I didn’t know their natural > habitat, I wouldn’t have guessed it from their behavior here. > > > > The other question I have has to do with the different subspecies or > varieties of T. cyanocrocus. The “typical” intense blue one, sometime > called T. c. var. cyanocrocus, is considered the type variety, and the two > other color forms, var. leichtlinii and var. violacea, are considered to be > mere color variations. However, my experience is that the leichtlinii > variety is far more vigorous in every way to the pure blue variety. It > grows more strongly, reproduces more quickly, and blooms far more > frequently and vigorously than the pure blue one (or the violet one). You > can see that in the photos as well which were taken at the same time where > the pots are at opposite ends of the bench they’re on. (The violet ones > hadn’t started blooming yet.) They are treated identically all year round. > It kind of makes me think the leichtlinii variety is the typical species > and the other two varieties were color mutations. The photos in the two > articles I’ve seen showing two different populations in their natural > habitat are hard to discern, but they don’t seem to be mostly the intense > blue form. But maybe the leichtlinii variety also happens to be the most > adapted to low elevation southern California conditions and that’s why they > do so much better for me? > > > > --Lee Poulsen > > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > > > >> On Feb 3, 2022, at 3:36 PM, Jane McGary via pbs < > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote: > >> > >> Snowmelt meadow genera such as Puschkinia and Muscari are perfect > bulb-lawn plants here too. In contrast, such snowmelt plants as Galanthus > platyphyllus, Fritillaria latifolia, Rhodophiala rhodolirion, and Lloydia > serotina have defeated many lowland growers, including me. If any readers > who don't live in high latitudes or altitudes succeed with these, I'd like > to learn how! What are your comments on geophytes that emerge under the lip > of the snowbank and flower before they are overgrown by grasses and tall > perennials? > >> > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… > > Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Judy Glattstein <jgglatt@gmail.com> > To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 17:59:13 -0500 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Spray Painting Plastic Flower Pots (Glattstein) > I use Rustoleum plastic primer and paint to embellish Tidy Cat kitty > litter tubs, the yellow with printing that hold 35 pounds of litter > kind. Use them to hold kindling etc for our wood burning stove. Going on > 3 years and they still look good. > > Judy > > On 2/16/2022 5:50 PM, A C via pbs wrote: > > I doubt that any paint will stay on a super-flexible surface if you flex > it > > very much. But I often use Rust-Oleum "Universal Bonding Primer" before > > top-coating on unusual surfaces. For instance, it will reliably adhere > to > > galvanized metal, which most paints will not. Some hardware stores carry > > it, but you may have to place a special order, or get it online. > > > > Alan > > > > Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2022 10:06:52 -0500 > > From: Judy Glattstein <jgglatt@gmail.com> > > To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > > Subject: [pbs] Spray Painting Plastic Flower Pots > > Message-ID: <f471a78e-9f49-b22a-0bc2-4ab318850025@gmail.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed > > > > I have spray painted plastic containers. Best technique is to set up a > > spray booth with large opened corrugated cardboard box shielding three > > sides. Container to be sprayed is inverted on an upside down bucket - > > that's for convenience to get the to-be-sprayed containers up off the > > ground. Spray first with a primer for better adhesion, then color for > > second and third coats. Goes very quickly. Just choose a calm, not > > breezy day. > > > > Spray the containers white and that should alleviate the over-heating / > > getting too dry issues. Won't eliminate, but should help. > > > > Judy in New Jersey where it is snowing. Forecast has changed from > > "ending by 9:00 a.m." to "over by 3:00 p.m." > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… > > Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus/ > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Lee Poulsen <wpoulsen@pacbell.net> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 18:07:08 -0800 > Subject: [pbs] Snowmelt bulbs > I’m going to try sending the two photos again. > > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Lee Poulsen <wpoulsen@pacbell.net> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 19:55:21 -0800 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Snowmelt bulbs (Tecophilaea) > Jane, you’re not confusing Tecophilaea violiflora, which I also grow, with > T. cyancocrocus var. violacea, are you? They are two very different plants. > The T. c. var. violacea looks and grows exactly like the other two color > forms and you can’t tell the difference until they flower. There is a > cultivar called ’Storm Cloud’ that is a cross between var. leichtlinii and > var. violacea that looks just like var. leichtlinii except that instead of > a pale blue edge has a lavender edge. The var. violacea has a purple color > every bit as intense as the blue variety. T. violiflora is a much smaller > plant with a smaller flower that isn’t as intensely colored as the T. > cyanocrocus flowers are and mine are more of a blue-violet color too. > > My pot of var. violacea hadn’t started blooming yet when I took the two > photos. Also, I only have one pot of it. I used to have just as many as the > other two varieties but a couple of summers ago, mice found most of the > violacea pots and ate every single corm in them except for one pot that > they missed. They also ate all the corms of my pot of ’Storm Cloud’. Now I > keep mousetraps in with my pots in my summer dormancy storage area. That > seems to have worked. > > I wonder if the solid blue without white coloring is due more to the > growing conditions and weather and/or climate that they grow in while in > active growth before they flower. The white in my all-blue forms seems > variable from winter to winter, sometimes having quite a bit, while other > winters having very little. One really cold winter, they were essentially > all blue with no white. I sourced my bulbs from all over, from here in the > US, from England, and from New Zealand. After a couple of years, they all > seem to have the same amount of white in them in any given winter. The last > president of IBS contacted me when he had someone write an article on > Tecophilaea for Herbertia and he was looking all over for photos of the > solid blue form. He didn’t like any of mine, and kept insisting that the > true form was a solid blue with no white especially the white lines. He > finally found someone who had a photo of what he was looking for. > > The thing to keep in mind is that the blue form with white is still the > intense blue, but with some white in the center and sometimes some white > rays extending out towards the outer part of the petals. But it’s not > nearly as much white as in the leichtlinii form in which only the outer > third of each petal is blue, and the leichtlinii blue is not the intense > blue of the blue form. It’s what I would call a “sky blue” or a “baby > blue”. It’s much paler, whereas the blue form is what I would call a “pure > blue” or “solid blue” or the blue of an RGB display that is only showing > the blue pixels lit up (at full intensity). > > The ones in the pots shown all grew vegetatively from one bulb each. (Some > I’ve had long enough that they now fill two pots as well as some I’ve > traded away.) I’ve recently grown some from seeds but they aren’t blooming > yet. I can’t always seem to get seeds to germinate some years. And I think > the baby bulbs don’t like to be kept as dry during summer as I keep the > full-sized bulbs, which I’ve never had any problems with, whereas some of > my seedling bulblets haven’t made it alive until fall. I also have to hand > pollinate if I want seed set. I pretty much never get seeds unless I hand > pollinate, which in my case is I have a very small horsehair paintbrush and > I just twirl it into the center of one flower then twirl it into the center > of the next flower of a different pot, and I keep doing that until I’ve > “twirled” all the flowers of that variety. > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > > > On Feb 16, 2022, at 3:03 PM, Jane McGary via pbs < > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote: > > > > Tecophilaea violacea is listed in Chilean field guides as a separate > species, not a color form, and it is said to have a different distribution. > > > Very likely the intense blue form was selected by European/British > growers when wild-collected material was being imported. During our recent > PBS board meeting, Jan Jeddeloh showed a nice pot grown from seed, and they > had a lot of white in them. I've kept the all-blue forms going, but I > started with imported bulbs from a Dutch supplier some years ago. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… > Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > -- Met vriendelijke groet, Ben Zonneveld Gastonderzoeker <https://naturalis-public-media-assets.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/…> - - ben.zonneveld@naturalis.nl - http://www.naturalis.nl/ Darwinweg 2, 2333 CR Leiden Postbus 9517, 2300 RA Leiden <https://www.naturalis.nl/> _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
