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Today's Topics:

1. Ornithogalum saundersiae (Bob Hoel)
2. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (oooOIOooo)
3. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (Tony Avent)
4. Seed and Bulb Exchange - Your attention please (R Hansen)
5. Crocus sativa (Arnold Trachtenberg)
6. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (William Hoffmann)
7. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (Tony Avent)
8. Re: Barnardia numidica is from North Africa (rrodich@juno.com)
9. Re: Barnardia numidica is from North Africa (Robert Lauf)
10. Re: Lycoris behavior (Nathan Lange)
11. Re: Lycoris behavior (Judy Glattstein)
12. Re: Lycoris behavior (Nathan Lange)
13. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (William Hoffmann)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 10:34:34 -0500
From: Bob Hoel <bob.hoel@comcast.net>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
Subject: [pbs] Ornithogalum saundersiae
Message-ID: <D6A00775-0864-4F78-85C8-98E52A4660AB@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Bob,

I am in the Chicago area and keep mine in pots to go dormant in the
greenhouse in the winter. It gets way too cold here to keep them in the
ground. When dealing with plants whose winter hardiness is questionable
and who are prolific multipliers (as is this one), I also experiment with
leaving a couple in the ground while taking in the rest as insurance. In
any case, I will probably be sending more to the BX in the spring as they
continue to multiply. These were originally a gift to me by a friend
moving from a townhouse to an apartment in Chicago. The gift that keeps on
giving.

Bob Hoel
Elmhurst, IL
630-240-0219 (cell)

Why drive when you can use active transportation! ? ? ?

wrote:

pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>>

1092362286.1158196.1602796863804@mail.yahoo.com>>

know if I can leave them in the ground here in East Tennessee.? Some sites
claim they are hardy below Zone 6, whereas others say Zone 9-10.? Obviously
a big difference!

particularly in Zone 7?? I can dig the bulbs and toss them in the
greenhouse for the winter if necessary, but leaving them would surely be
more convenient!? If no one knows, I'll leave one out and dig one and
report next year!

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 15:47:44 +0000
From: oooOIOooo <oooOIOooo@protonmail.ch>
To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
Message-ID:

<_UuGn1I-HY0atAPJZ4bSsxSmrb3VsYMv8L_6lakq3sbt8KEqKn1-8iqBSCTp8beymzH9L_LNuJ0j1frVRlXsH0wrklNd4-wLBReQMl24VGU=@
protonmail.ch>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

We had a hot summer in Phoenix; daytime maximum temperatures were not
higher than typical, but we had almost 6 weeks of nights above 85 F. There
were more days above 110 F than before, but none approached our all-time
record of 122 F. Most advanced gardeners here lost many plants, including
succulents. I had okra in large well-watered containers die of heat.

My Lycoris radiata are in two raised concrete block planters along my
house, facing north by northwest. The planters and walls receive direct sun
in mid to late afternoon during the summer, the hottest time of day. In
winter these planters are in full shade. The L. radiata clumps are about
6"-12" back from the sunny wall. They have been there for more than 30
years. I have two dozen clumps, progeny of two dozen bulbs. I have not
divided them. The bulb noses are just beneath the surface.

The drip irrigation system failed this spring, and I watered manually.
There is a guava at the west end of one planter as an indicator plant. It
did wilt a few times. Also in that planter are a tiny, struggling
Philodendron selloum that I really should move because it can't take the
sun; Crinum powellii album and another C. I can't recall, which burn in the
sun but recover; several Encephalartos seedlings that do fine, and a few
other things I planted recently that are struggling. The other planter has
some bearded Iris, Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum.

The L. radiata have always been irregular in flowering. Sometimes I get no
flowers at all for several years. Other years I get a few clumps flowering.
All clumps leaf and grow luxuriantly. I don't get enough frost to harm the
leaves.

This year they gave the best flowering ever, starting about September 3.
Every clump flowered. I don't know whether that reflects this year's care
or last year's. They are making leaves now.

I planted 3 Lycoris aurea in one bed in fall 2018. They are well back from
the hot wall. One made leaves that first season, the same one the second
season. I haven't seen any this year. I have seen one planting of this in
flower only a few miles from my house, so I know it can grow here.

I might add Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum don't mind any
amount of sun and heat once established, so long as they are watered.

Leo Martin
Phoenix Arizona USA
Zone 9?

Sent from ProtonMail mobile

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 15:51:15 +0000
From: Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
Cc: oooOIOooo <oooOIOooo@protonmail.ch>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
Message-ID: <456abe7c20fd49fdaac63d360128a7ec@PDN-EXCHANGE.pdn.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

HI Leo;

That's impressive. I can't imagine 122 degrees F.

Tony Avent
Proprietor
tony@plantdelights.com
Juniper Level Botanic Garden<http://www.juniperlevelbotanicgarden.org/>
and Plant Delights Nursery<http://www.plantdelights.com/>
Ph 919.772.4794/fx 919.772.4752
9241 Sauls Road, Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA
USDA Zone 7b/Winter 0-5 F/Summer 95-105F
"Preserving, Studying, Propagating, and Sharing the World's Flora"
[cid:///image001.png@01D6A3B2.A692C0F0]
Since 1988, Plant Delights Nursery is THE Source for unique, rare and
native perennial plants.

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:
The contents of this email message and any attachments are intended solely
for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or privileged
information and may be legally protected from disclosure. If you are not
the intended recipient of this message or their agent, or if this message
has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by
reply email and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are
not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use,
dissemination, copying, or storage of this message or its attachments is
strictly prohibited.

From: pbs <pbs-bounces@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> On Behalf Of
oooOIOooo via pbs
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 11:48 AM
To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
Cc: oooOIOooo <oooOIOooo@protonmail.ch>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris

We had a hot summer in Phoenix; daytime maximum temperatures were not
higher than typical, but we had almost 6 weeks of nights above 85 F. There
were more days above 110 F than before, but none approached our all-time
record of 122 F. Most advanced gardeners here lost many plants, including
succulents. I had okra in large well-watered containers die of heat.

My Lycoris radiata are in two raised concrete block planters along my
house, facing north by northwest. The planters and walls receive direct sun
in mid to late afternoon during the summer, the hottest time of day. In
winter these planters are in full shade. The L. radiata clumps are about
6"-12" back from the sunny wall. They have been there for more than 30
years. I have two dozen clumps, progeny of two dozen bulbs. I have not
divided them. The bulb noses are just beneath the surface.

The drip irrigation system failed this spring, and I watered manually.
There is a guava at the west end of one planter as an indicator plant. It
did wilt a few times. Also in that planter are a tiny, struggling
Philodendron selloum that I really should move because it can't take the
sun; Crinum powellii album and another C. I can't recall, which burn in the
sun but recover; several Encephalartos seedlings that do fine, and a few
other things I planted recently that are struggling. The other planter has
some bearded Iris, Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum.

The L. radiata have always been irregular in flowering. Sometimes I get no
flowers at all for several years. Other years I get a few clumps flowering.
All clumps leaf and grow luxuriantly. I don't get enough frost to harm the
leaves.

This year they gave the best flowering ever, starting about September 3.
Every clump flowered. I don't know whether that reflects this year's care
or last year's. They are making leaves now.

I planted 3 Lycoris aurea in one bed in fall 2018. They are well back from
the hot wall. One made leaves that first season, the same one the second
season. I haven't seen any this year. I have seen one planting of this in
flower only a few miles from my house, so I know it can grow here.

I might add Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum don't mind any
amount of sun and heat once established, so long as they are watered.

Leo Martin
Phoenix Arizona USA
Zone 9?

Sent from ProtonMail mobile
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________________________________

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 09:04:25 -0700
From: "R Hansen" <bulbnut@hansennursery.com>
To: "Pacific Bulb Society" <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
Subject: [pbs] Seed and Bulb Exchange - Your attention please
Message-ID: <002701d6a3d6$05e28b30$11a7a190$@hansennursery.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Good Morning,

I'm writing on behalf of Luminita Vollmer, our Exchange Director, who is
currently swamped with donations and preparations for the last exchange of
the year.

Some of you are not aware or have forgotten that seed and bulbs need to be
cleaned, in very good condition, and with a note on the individual species
if they need immediate distribution. As always, we'll do our best, but
Luminita has a huge amount to deal with this time around due to the immense
generosity of members and some non-members.

This will be the final distribution until early spring due to winter
weather
which is already here in some areas of the country. Most northern states
have had frost and will be getting snow (fingers crossed) and shipping some
seeds and all bulbs can be unsafe. Translated, that means the bulbs will
turn to mush!

Luminita has already announced that the Request for Donations is over.
PLEASE DO NOT SEND any more donations until she notifies us in the spring.
Storage capacity is limited. If you have seeds, please clean them and
store them properly. A few packets of seed stored in the fridge should not
send your partner into a tizzy. Good thing I live with non-humans. Half my
fridge is full of seed : )).

Please have patience when you place an order. With such a large seed/bulb
list, it will take time for Luminita to get everything shipped. If you
allow
a reasonable length of time and still haven't received your order, then
please do let her know.

Here's to lots of rain and snow where needed. We do not need another summer
of fire.

Stay safe,

Robin Hansen

President,

Pacific Bulb Society

------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 17:05:43 +0000 (UTC)
From: Arnold Trachtenberg <arnold140@verizon.net>
To: "pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net"
<pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
Subject: [pbs] Crocus sativa
Message-ID: <697533936.257005.1602867943630@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

With the recent talk about saffron Crocus, mine just emerged? yesterday.
ArnoldNew Jersey
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------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 09:26:26 -0400
From: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu>
To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
Message-ID:
<CAC_Hx1F4-S0X55k6GR8fTbi-BVoM-NjRDXqdOB-1jhdRfkqt=
g@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Tony mentioned our discussion about spring temperatures. My thoughts
on the importance of a long,cool spring for spring-foliage Lycoris
comes partly from speculation and partly from my experience with L.
sanguinea. In trying to get the sanguinea to bloom, I tried piling
snow and ice on top of the soil all winter one year, whenever either
was available. I kept buckets partially filled with water to have a
ready supply of ice whenever night temperatures were cold enough. I
thought this should have generated plenty of chilling, but it did no
good. But then, in 2019, after what to me seemed to be an unusually
long spring for us, my L. sanguinea bloomed for the first time. Though
this year also seems like a long,cool spring, and did not get any
flowering. So, really just some anecdotal evidence.
My speculation is that a short spring limits carbon gain of
spring-foliage species, similar to the way that cold damage limits
carbon gain of fall-foliage species, which everyone seems to agree
impairs flowering. It seems well documented that warm temperatures can
accelerate leaf senescence in spring ephemerals, and it seems true for
Lycoris. So a quick transition from winter to summer might not give
enough time for the plant to accumulate enough carbohydrate for
reliable flowering. Perhaps partial shade can have a similar effect as
a long spring. Tony, when we spoke, you seemed to know which Lycoris
bloom best in partial shade. I am curious if these tend to be the
spring-foliage species.
Curiously I too transplanted some L. squamigera this spring and a
few them bloomed. My established clumps did not.
Bill

has repeated that Lycoris x squamigera flowers only after a very cold, long
winter, which is why it flowers reliably in cold climates, but not >in
warmer regions...Bill suggested that our long, cool spring in 2020 caused
the buds to break, despite the mild winter temperatures. Others have long
linked rainfall with lycoris flowering, which is certainly the >case with
zephyranthes. Sounds like a great grad student project.

--
William A. Hoffmann
Professor
Department of Plant & Microbial Biology
North Carolina State University
Raleigh, NC, 27695-7612

------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 18:56:13 +0000
From: Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
Cc: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
Message-ID: <005beab726514fff84c3ed6b9b2a55fd@PDN-EXCHANGE.pdn.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Bill;

In checking our records, the only spring-foliage species that flowered
well this year and was not divided the year prior was L. sprengeri. L..
chinensis, L. longituba, L. x squamigera, L. x incarnata all flowered well
this year when divided, but not at all on undivided clumps.

As for shade, we typically see much better flowering on spring-leaved
species when grown in shade, as Jim alluded to in his post. Add to that
list, any fall flowered species, whose foliage burns badly in winter sun.

Tony Avent
Proprietor
tony@plantdelights.com
Juniper Level Botanic Garden<http://www.juniperlevelbotanicgarden.org/>
and Plant Delights Nursery<http://www.plantdelights.com/>
Ph 919.772.4794/fx 919.772.4752
9241 Sauls Road, Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA
USDA Zone 7b/Winter 0-5 F/Summer 95-105F
"Preserving, Studying, Propagating, and Sharing the World's Flora"
[cid:///image001.png@01D6A3CC.7D0F9F40]
Since 1988, Plant Delights Nursery is THE Source for unique, rare and
native perennial plants.

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:
The contents of this email message and any attachments are intended solely
for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or privileged
information and may be legally protected from disclosure. If you are not
the intended recipient of this message or their agent, or if this message
has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by
reply email and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are
not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use,
dissemination, copying, or storage of this message or its attachments is
strictly prohibited.

From: pbs <pbs-bounces@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> On Behalf Of William
Hoffmann via pbs
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 9:26 AM
To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
Cc: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris

Tony mentioned our discussion about spring temperatures. My thoughts
on the importance of a long,cool spring for spring-foliage Lycoris
comes partly from speculation and partly from my experience with L.
sanguinea. In trying to get the sanguinea to bloom, I tried piling
snow and ice on top of the soil all winter one year, whenever either
was available. I kept buckets partially filled with water to have a
ready supply of ice whenever night temperatures were cold enough. I
thought this should have generated plenty of chilling, but it did no
good. But then, in 2019, after what to me seemed to be an unusually
long spring for us, my L. sanguinea bloomed for the first time. Though
this year also seems like a long,cool spring, and did not get any
flowering. So, really just some anecdotal evidence.
My speculation is that a short spring limits carbon gain of
spring-foliage species, similar to the way that cold damage limits
carbon gain of fall-foliage species, which everyone seems to agree
impairs flowering. It seems well documented that warm temperatures can
accelerate leaf senescence in spring ephemerals, and it seems true for
Lycoris. So a quick transition from winter to summer might not give
enough time for the plant to accumulate enough carbohydrate for
reliable flowering. Perhaps partial shade can have a similar effect as
a long spring. Tony, when we spoke, you seemed to know which Lycoris
bloom best in partial shade. I am curious if these tend to be the
spring-foliage species.
Curiously I too transplanted some L. squamigera this spring and a
few them bloomed. My established clumps did not.
Bill

has repeated that Lycoris x squamigera flowers only after a very cold, long
winter, which is why it flowers reliably in cold climates, but not >in
warmer regions...Bill suggested that our long, cool spring in 2020 caused
the buds to break, despite the mild winter temperatures. Others have long
linked rainfall with lycoris flowering, which is certainly the >case with
zephyranthes. Sounds like a great grad student project.

--
William A. Hoffmann
Professor
Department of Plant & Microbial Biology
North Carolina State University
Raleigh, NC, 27695-7612
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________________________________

------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 20:09:51 GMT
From: "rrodich@juno.com" <rrodich@juno.com>
To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
Subject: Re: [pbs] Barnardia numidica is from North Africa
Message-ID: <20201016.150951.3092.0@webmail10.dca.untd.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

Diploid and triploid forms could explain my different sized plants. Would
the triploids be sterile? While the larger form does want to produce seed,
I'm not sure I have ever actually seen seed. The smaller form does produce
viable seed. I need to do more investigating next season to be positive.
Thanks.Rick Rodichnear Minneapolis, MN

------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 20:31:22 +0000 (UTC)
From: Robert Lauf <boblauf@att.net>
To: rrodich--- via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Barnardia numidica is from North Africa
Message-ID: <584328240.345035.1602880282843@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Generally the triploids would be sterile.? In the orchid biz there are
some suggestions that crosses involving a triploid and a diploid have the
best chance of success using the triploid as the pollen parent rather than
the pod parent, but I would regard this as "lore" at best and an urban
legend at worst.? Note that large cattleyas might make a half million seeds
in a pod, so a generous sowing in the flask might yield some viable plants
even though the viable seeds are a tiny percentage of the total.? Note also
that orchid seeds don't have any endosperm, so they are germinated in a
sugar-containing medium in a sterile flask.? This is not unlike "embryo
rescue" that can be done in some wide crosses in other kinds of plants,
where the cross yields a viable embryo but the mother plant doesn't
recognize it well enough to make a complete seed.? So you might get a pod,
but when you open it there are little flakes where seeds should be, but the
flakes in some cases can be germinated if yo
u supply the carbohydrates.
Embryos from (effectively) a selfing of a triploid will normally be
aneuploids and any effort to germinate and nurse them along would likely
yield crippled plants that have no desirable qualities.
I used to have a sterile workstation here at home, but that was really
over the top even for me, so I no longer can do such experiments.
Probably more than you wanted to know.
Bob
On Friday, October 16, 2020, 04:11:16 PM EDT, rrodich--- via pbs <
pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:

Diploid and triploid forms could explain my different sized plants.?
Would the triploids be sterile?? While the larger form does want to produce
seed, I'm not sure I have ever actually seen seed.? The smaller form does
produce viable seed.? I need to do more investigating next season to be
positive. Thanks.Rick Rodichnear Minneapolis, MN
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------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 17:59:25 -0700
From: Nathan Lange <plantsman@comcast.net>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris behavior
Message-ID:
<mailman.1573.1602896369.117284.pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

My Lycoris x squamigera have flowered here in Sonoma County,
California (USDA zone 9b) each of the last four years. The bulbs are
growing in a five gallon, black plastic pot instead of in the ground
in order to maximize winter cooling. Not surprisingly, the bulbs on
the south side of the pot consistently never flower. This is more
likely due to flower bud abortion caused by spring/summer over
heating than to lack of winter vernalization. I suspect our winters
here might be too warm for successful flowering from bulbs planted in
the ground where they would be more insulated from night time
vernalizing temperatures during the winter.

Nathan

At 01:13 PM 10/15/2020, you wrote:
Not all species are the same. The genus Lycoris is composed of 2
quite distinct subgenera. The subgenus that includes the spring
foliage species most notably L. squamigera, L. chinensis and others
produces is annual foliage in spring at the end of winter. They bloom
in late summer and early fall months after the foliage has gone
dormant. These species and their hybrids are generally quite cold
hardy through Zone 5 and generally grow and bloom best no warmer than
Zone 7/8.

At 09:05 AM 10/15/2020, you wrote:
This brings up another puzzling lycoris issue. Everything I've ever
read has repeated that Lycoris x squamigera flowers only after a very
cold, long winter, which is why it flowers reliably in cold climates,
but not in warmer regions.

------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 21:55:33 -0400
From: Judy Glattstein <jgglatt@gmail.com>
To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris behavior
Message-ID: <b293357e-81ad-d8d4-8720-9380d423e80e@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Nathan, do you think it would help if the black pot was painted white,
to reflect sunlight rather than absorbing the heat?

I use spray paint with primer included. Very easy as long as you don't
choose a windy day!

Judy in western New Jersey where I'm almost ready to clear out the
"potting shed"? turning it back into a garage again and park my car
under cover once more

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus/

------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 19:41:38 -0700
From: Nathan Lange <plantsman@comcast.net>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris behavior
Message-ID:
<mailman.1575.1602902501.117284.pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Yes, that would probably help. I've considered simply moving the pot
to the shade during the summer but I find the current situation
interesting. The orientation of the pot has never changed but it's
only one pot so my interpretation of what's going on could be
wrong. It's really not a species I recommend growing here since
flowering time overlaps with the earliest Amaryllis belladonna
hybrids which are superior here in nearly every respect (not true in
places where winter hardiness is an issue).

Nathan

At 06:55 PM 10/16/2020, you wrote:

------------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 17:08:13 -0400
From: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu>
To: Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com>
Cc: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
Message-ID:
<
CAC_Hx1FcabeBqUXW3bQ7-eW3ZRnE-A_4Z1oEBtc0rNVMGyA8ow@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Oops, I missed that point in Jim's post. This year in my garden (a few
milies from PDN) a number of spring-foliage Lycoris bloomed for me without
recent lifting: L. sprengeri, L. chinensis, and L. longituba and a few
spring-foliage hybrids, Momozono, Lemon Yellow Spider, and October Bronze.
The species are in sun, but the hybrids all have overhead shade. Overall a
pretty good year, and have hundreds of seeds from dozens of crosses to grow
up.

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 2:56 PM Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com> wrote:

well

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Subject: Digest Footer

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End of pbs Digest, Vol 44, Issue 15
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