Gracias por el mail. Deseo seguir teniendo contacto con esa institución. Aprendí mucho. Graciad El sáb., 17 de octubre de 2020 9:00 a. m., < pbs-request@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> escribió: > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Ornithogalum saundersiae (Bob Hoel) > 2. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (oooOIOooo) > 3. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (Tony Avent) > 4. Seed and Bulb Exchange - Your attention please (R Hansen) > 5. Crocus sativa (Arnold Trachtenberg) > 6. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (William Hoffmann) > 7. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (Tony Avent) > 8. Re: Barnardia numidica is from North Africa (rrodich@juno.com) > 9. Re: Barnardia numidica is from North Africa (Robert Lauf) > 10. Re: Lycoris behavior (Nathan Lange) > 11. Re: Lycoris behavior (Judy Glattstein) > 12. Re: Lycoris behavior (Nathan Lange) > 13. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (William Hoffmann) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 10:34:34 -0500 > From: Bob Hoel <bob.hoel@comcast.net> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Subject: [pbs] Ornithogalum saundersiae > Message-ID: <D6A00775-0864-4F78-85C8-98E52A4660AB@comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Bob, > > I am in the Chicago area and keep mine in pots to go dormant in the > greenhouse in the winter. It gets way too cold here to keep them in the > ground. When dealing with plants whose winter hardiness is questionable > and who are prolific multipliers (as is this one), I also experiment with > leaving a couple in the ground while taking in the rest as insurance. In > any case, I will probably be sending more to the BX in the spring as they > continue to multiply. These were originally a gift to me by a friend > moving from a townhouse to an apartment in Chicago. The gift that keeps on > giving. > > Bob Hoel > Elmhurst, IL > 630-240-0219 (cell) > > Why drive when you can use active transportation! ? ? ? > > > On Oct 16, 2020, at 7:00 AM, pbs-request@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > wrote: > > > > Message: 10 > > Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2020 21:21:03 +0000 (UTC) > > From: Robert Lauf <boblauf@att.net <mailto:boblauf@att.net>> > > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net <mailto: > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>> > > Subject: [pbs] Ornithogalum saundersiae Hardiness > > Message-ID: <1092362286.1158196.1602796863804@mail.yahoo.com <mailto: > 1092362286.1158196.1602796863804@mail.yahoo.com>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > > > I planted some bulbs this year and they did great.? However, I want to > know if I can leave them in the ground here in East Tennessee.? Some sites > claim they are hardy below Zone 6, whereas others say Zone 9-10.? Obviously > a big difference! > > Does anyone have any experience growing them in the Southeast, > particularly in Zone 7?? I can dig the bulbs and toss them in the > greenhouse for the winter if necessary, but leaving them would surely be > more convenient!? If no one knows, I'll leave one out and dig one and > report next year! > > Bob? ?Zone 7 > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 15:47:44 +0000 > From: oooOIOooo <oooOIOooo@protonmail.ch> > To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris > Message-ID: > > <_UuGn1I-HY0atAPJZ4bSsxSmrb3VsYMv8L_6lakq3sbt8KEqKn1-8iqBSCTp8beymzH9L_LNuJ0j1frVRlXsH0wrklNd4-wLBReQMl24VGU=@ > protonmail.ch> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > We had a hot summer in Phoenix; daytime maximum temperatures were not > higher than typical, but we had almost 6 weeks of nights above 85 F. There > were more days above 110 F than before, but none approached our all-time > record of 122 F. Most advanced gardeners here lost many plants, including > succulents. I had okra in large well-watered containers die of heat. > > My Lycoris radiata are in two raised concrete block planters along my > house, facing north by northwest. The planters and walls receive direct sun > in mid to late afternoon during the summer, the hottest time of day. In > winter these planters are in full shade. The L. radiata clumps are about > 6"-12" back from the sunny wall. They have been there for more than 30 > years. I have two dozen clumps, progeny of two dozen bulbs. I have not > divided them. The bulb noses are just beneath the surface. > > The drip irrigation system failed this spring, and I watered manually. > There is a guava at the west end of one planter as an indicator plant. It > did wilt a few times. Also in that planter are a tiny, struggling > Philodendron selloum that I really should move because it can't take the > sun; Crinum powellii album and another C. I can't recall, which burn in the > sun but recover; several Encephalartos seedlings that do fine, and a few > other things I planted recently that are struggling. The other planter has > some bearded Iris, Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum. > > The L. radiata have always been irregular in flowering. Sometimes I get no > flowers at all for several years. Other years I get a few clumps flowering. > All clumps leaf and grow luxuriantly. I don't get enough frost to harm the > leaves. > > This year they gave the best flowering ever, starting about September 3. > Every clump flowered. I don't know whether that reflects this year's care > or last year's. They are making leaves now. > > I planted 3 Lycoris aurea in one bed in fall 2018. They are well back from > the hot wall. One made leaves that first season, the same one the second > season. I haven't seen any this year. I have seen one planting of this in > flower only a few miles from my house, so I know it can grow here. > > I might add Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum don't mind any > amount of sun and heat once established, so long as they are watered. > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > Zone 9? > > Sent from ProtonMail mobile > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 15:51:15 +0000 > From: Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Cc: oooOIOooo <oooOIOooo@protonmail.ch> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris > Message-ID: <456abe7c20fd49fdaac63d360128a7ec@PDN-EXCHANGE.pdn.local> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII > > HI Leo; > > That's impressive. I can't imagine 122 degrees F. > > Tony Avent > Proprietor > tony@plantdelights.com > Juniper Level Botanic Garden<http://www.juniperlevelbotanicgarden.org/> > and Plant Delights Nursery<http://www.plantdelights.com/> > Ph 919.772.4794/fx 919.772.4752 > 9241 Sauls Road, Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA > USDA Zone 7b/Winter 0-5 F/Summer 95-105F > "Preserving, Studying, Propagating, and Sharing the World's Flora" > [cid:///image001.png@01D6A3B2.A692C0F0] > Since 1988, Plant Delights Nursery is THE Source for unique, rare and > native perennial plants. > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: > The contents of this email message and any attachments are intended solely > for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or privileged > information and may be legally protected from disclosure. If you are not > the intended recipient of this message or their agent, or if this message > has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by > reply email and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are > not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, > dissemination, copying, or storage of this message or its attachments is > strictly prohibited. > > > > From: pbs <pbs-bounces@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> On Behalf Of > oooOIOooo via pbs > Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 11:48 AM > To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > Cc: oooOIOooo <oooOIOooo@protonmail.ch> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris > > We had a hot summer in Phoenix; daytime maximum temperatures were not > higher than typical, but we had almost 6 weeks of nights above 85 F. There > were more days above 110 F than before, but none approached our all-time > record of 122 F. Most advanced gardeners here lost many plants, including > succulents. I had okra in large well-watered containers die of heat. > > My Lycoris radiata are in two raised concrete block planters along my > house, facing north by northwest. The planters and walls receive direct sun > in mid to late afternoon during the summer, the hottest time of day. In > winter these planters are in full shade. The L. radiata clumps are about > 6"-12" back from the sunny wall. They have been there for more than 30 > years. I have two dozen clumps, progeny of two dozen bulbs. I have not > divided them. The bulb noses are just beneath the surface. > > The drip irrigation system failed this spring, and I watered manually. > There is a guava at the west end of one planter as an indicator plant. It > did wilt a few times. Also in that planter are a tiny, struggling > Philodendron selloum that I really should move because it can't take the > sun; Crinum powellii album and another C. I can't recall, which burn in the > sun but recover; several Encephalartos seedlings that do fine, and a few > other things I planted recently that are struggling. The other planter has > some bearded Iris, Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum. > > The L. radiata have always been irregular in flowering. Sometimes I get no > flowers at all for several years. Other years I get a few clumps flowering. > All clumps leaf and grow luxuriantly. I don't get enough frost to harm the > leaves. > > This year they gave the best flowering ever, starting about September 3. > Every clump flowered. I don't know whether that reflects this year's care > or last year's. They are making leaves now. > > I planted 3 Lycoris aurea in one bed in fall 2018. They are well back from > the hot wall. One made leaves that first season, the same one the second > season. I haven't seen any this year. I have seen one planting of this in > flower only a few miles from my house, so I know it can grow here. > > I might add Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum don't mind any > amount of sun and heat once established, so long as they are watered. > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > Zone 9? > > Sent from ProtonMail mobile > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net<mailto:pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… > Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net><mailto: > pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net%3e> > > ________________________________ > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 09:04:25 -0700 > From: "R Hansen" <bulbnut@hansennursery.com> > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Subject: [pbs] Seed and Bulb Exchange - Your attention please > Message-ID: <002701d6a3d6$05e28b30$11a7a190$@hansennursery.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Good Morning, > > > > I'm writing on behalf of Luminita Vollmer, our Exchange Director, who is > currently swamped with donations and preparations for the last exchange of > the year. > > > > Some of you are not aware or have forgotten that seed and bulbs need to be > cleaned, in very good condition, and with a note on the individual species > if they need immediate distribution. As always, we'll do our best, but > Luminita has a huge amount to deal with this time around due to the immense > generosity of members and some non-members. > > > > This will be the final distribution until early spring due to winter > weather > which is already here in some areas of the country. Most northern states > have had frost and will be getting snow (fingers crossed) and shipping some > seeds and all bulbs can be unsafe. Translated, that means the bulbs will > turn to mush! > > > > Luminita has already announced that the Request for Donations is over. > PLEASE DO NOT SEND any more donations until she notifies us in the spring. > Storage capacity is limited. If you have seeds, please clean them and > store them properly. A few packets of seed stored in the fridge should not > send your partner into a tizzy. Good thing I live with non-humans. Half my > fridge is full of seed : )). > > > > Please have patience when you place an order. With such a large seed/bulb > list, it will take time for Luminita to get everything shipped. If you > allow > a reasonable length of time and still haven't received your order, then > please do let her know. > > > > Here's to lots of rain and snow where needed. We do not need another summer > of fire. > > > > Stay safe, > > > > Robin Hansen > > President, > > Pacific Bulb Society > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 17:05:43 +0000 (UTC) > From: Arnold Trachtenberg <arnold140@verizon.net> > To: "pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net" > <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Subject: [pbs] Crocus sativa > Message-ID: <697533936.257005.1602867943630@mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > With the recent talk about saffron Crocus, mine just emerged? yesterday. > ArnoldNew Jersey > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Crocus sativa.2020.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 163263 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/pipermail/pbs/… > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 09:26:26 -0400 > From: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu> > To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris > Message-ID: > <CAC_Hx1F4-S0X55k6GR8fTbi-BVoM-NjRDXqdOB-1jhdRfkqt= > g@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > Tony mentioned our discussion about spring temperatures. My thoughts > on the importance of a long,cool spring for spring-foliage Lycoris > comes partly from speculation and partly from my experience with L. > sanguinea. In trying to get the sanguinea to bloom, I tried piling > snow and ice on top of the soil all winter one year, whenever either > was available. I kept buckets partially filled with water to have a > ready supply of ice whenever night temperatures were cold enough. I > thought this should have generated plenty of chilling, but it did no > good. But then, in 2019, after what to me seemed to be an unusually > long spring for us, my L. sanguinea bloomed for the first time. Though > this year also seems like a long,cool spring, and did not get any > flowering. So, really just some anecdotal evidence. > My speculation is that a short spring limits carbon gain of > spring-foliage species, similar to the way that cold damage limits > carbon gain of fall-foliage species, which everyone seems to agree > impairs flowering. It seems well documented that warm temperatures can > accelerate leaf senescence in spring ephemerals, and it seems true for > Lycoris. So a quick transition from winter to summer might not give > enough time for the plant to accumulate enough carbohydrate for > reliable flowering. Perhaps partial shade can have a similar effect as > a long spring. Tony, when we spoke, you seemed to know which Lycoris > bloom best in partial shade. I am curious if these tend to be the > spring-foliage species. > Curiously I too transplanted some L. squamigera this spring and a > few them bloomed. My established clumps did not. > Bill > > > > >This brings up another puzzling lycoris issue. Everything I?ve ever read > has repeated that Lycoris x squamigera flowers only after a very cold, long > winter, which is why it flowers reliably in cold climates, but not >in > warmer regions...Bill suggested that our long, cool spring in 2020 caused > the buds to break, despite the mild winter temperatures. Others have long > linked rainfall with lycoris flowering, which is certainly the >case with > zephyranthes. Sounds like a great grad student project. > > -- > William A. Hoffmann > Professor > Department of Plant & Microbial Biology > North Carolina State University > Raleigh, NC, 27695-7612 > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 18:56:13 +0000 > From: Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Cc: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris > Message-ID: <005beab726514fff84c3ed6b9b2a55fd@PDN-EXCHANGE.pdn.local> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII > > Bill; > > In checking our records, the only spring-foliage species that flowered > well this year and was not divided the year prior was L. sprengeri. L.. > chinensis, L. longituba, L. x squamigera, L. x incarnata all flowered well > this year when divided, but not at all on undivided clumps. > > As for shade, we typically see much better flowering on spring-leaved > species when grown in shade, as Jim alluded to in his post. Add to that > list, any fall flowered species, whose foliage burns badly in winter sun. > > Tony Avent > Proprietor > tony@plantdelights.com > Juniper Level Botanic Garden<http://www.juniperlevelbotanicgarden.org/> > and Plant Delights Nursery<http://www.plantdelights.com/> > Ph 919.772.4794/fx 919.772.4752 > 9241 Sauls Road, Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA > USDA Zone 7b/Winter 0-5 F/Summer 95-105F > "Preserving, Studying, Propagating, and Sharing the World's Flora" > [cid:///image001.png@01D6A3CC.7D0F9F40] > Since 1988, Plant Delights Nursery is THE Source for unique, rare and > native perennial plants. > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: > The contents of this email message and any attachments are intended solely > for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or privileged > information and may be legally protected from disclosure. If you are not > the intended recipient of this message or their agent, or if this message > has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by > reply email and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are > not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, > dissemination, copying, or storage of this message or its attachments is > strictly prohibited. > > > > From: pbs <pbs-bounces@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> On Behalf Of William > Hoffmann via pbs > Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 9:26 AM > To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > Cc: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris > > Tony mentioned our discussion about spring temperatures. My thoughts > on the importance of a long,cool spring for spring-foliage Lycoris > comes partly from speculation and partly from my experience with L. > sanguinea. In trying to get the sanguinea to bloom, I tried piling > snow and ice on top of the soil all winter one year, whenever either > was available. I kept buckets partially filled with water to have a > ready supply of ice whenever night temperatures were cold enough. I > thought this should have generated plenty of chilling, but it did no > good. But then, in 2019, after what to me seemed to be an unusually > long spring for us, my L. sanguinea bloomed for the first time. Though > this year also seems like a long,cool spring, and did not get any > flowering. So, really just some anecdotal evidence. > My speculation is that a short spring limits carbon gain of > spring-foliage species, similar to the way that cold damage limits > carbon gain of fall-foliage species, which everyone seems to agree > impairs flowering. It seems well documented that warm temperatures can > accelerate leaf senescence in spring ephemerals, and it seems true for > Lycoris. So a quick transition from winter to summer might not give > enough time for the plant to accumulate enough carbohydrate for > reliable flowering. Perhaps partial shade can have a similar effect as > a long spring. Tony, when we spoke, you seemed to know which Lycoris > bloom best in partial shade. I am curious if these tend to be the > spring-foliage species. > Curiously I too transplanted some L. squamigera this spring and a > few them bloomed. My established clumps did not. > Bill > > > > >This brings up another puzzling lycoris issue. Everything I?ve ever read > has repeated that Lycoris x squamigera flowers only after a very cold, long > winter, which is why it flowers reliably in cold climates, but not >in > warmer regions...Bill suggested that our long, cool spring in 2020 caused > the buds to break, despite the mild winter temperatures. Others have long > linked rainfall with lycoris flowering, which is certainly the >case with > zephyranthes. Sounds like a great grad student project. > > -- > William A. Hoffmann > Professor > Department of Plant & Microbial Biology > North Carolina State University > Raleigh, NC, 27695-7612 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net<mailto:pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… > Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net><mailto: > pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net%3e> > > ________________________________ > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 20:09:51 GMT > From: "rrodich@juno.com" <rrodich@juno.com> > To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > Subject: Re: [pbs] Barnardia numidica is from North Africa > Message-ID: <20201016.150951.3092.0@webmail10.dca.untd.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 > > Diploid and triploid forms could explain my different sized plants. Would > the triploids be sterile? While the larger form does want to produce seed, > I'm not sure I have ever actually seen seed. The smaller form does produce > viable seed. I need to do more investigating next season to be positive. > Thanks.Rick Rodichnear Minneapolis, MN > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 20:31:22 +0000 (UTC) > From: Robert Lauf <boblauf@att.net> > To: rrodich--- via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Barnardia numidica is from North Africa > Message-ID: <584328240.345035.1602880282843@mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Generally the triploids would be sterile.? In the orchid biz there are > some suggestions that crosses involving a triploid and a diploid have the > best chance of success using the triploid as the pollen parent rather than > the pod parent, but I would regard this as "lore" at best and an urban > legend at worst.? Note that large cattleyas might make a half million seeds > in a pod, so a generous sowing in the flask might yield some viable plants > even though the viable seeds are a tiny percentage of the total.? Note also > that orchid seeds don't have any endosperm, so they are germinated in a > sugar-containing medium in a sterile flask.? This is not unlike "embryo > rescue" that can be done in some wide crosses in other kinds of plants, > where the cross yields a viable embryo but the mother plant doesn't > recognize it well enough to make a complete seed.? So you might get a pod, > but when you open it there are little flakes where seeds should be, but the > flakes in some cases can be germinated if yo > u supply the carbohydrates. > Embryos from (effectively) a selfing of a triploid will normally be > aneuploids and any effort to germinate and nurse them along would likely > yield crippled plants that have no desirable qualities. > I used to have a sterile workstation here at home, but that was really > over the top even for me, so I no longer can do such experiments. > Probably more than you wanted to know. > Bob > On Friday, October 16, 2020, 04:11:16 PM EDT, rrodich--- via pbs < > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote: > > Diploid and triploid forms could explain my different sized plants.? > Would the triploids be sterile?? While the larger form does want to produce > seed, I'm not sure I have ever actually seen seed.? The smaller form does > produce viable seed.? I need to do more investigating next season to be > positive. Thanks.Rick Rodichnear Minneapolis, MN > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… > Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 17:59:25 -0700 > From: Nathan Lange <plantsman@comcast.net> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris behavior > Message-ID: > <mailman.1573.1602896369.117284.pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > > My Lycoris x squamigera have flowered here in Sonoma County, > California (USDA zone 9b) each of the last four years. The bulbs are > growing in a five gallon, black plastic pot instead of in the ground > in order to maximize winter cooling. Not surprisingly, the bulbs on > the south side of the pot consistently never flower. This is more > likely due to flower bud abortion caused by spring/summer over > heating than to lack of winter vernalization. I suspect our winters > here might be too warm for successful flowering from bulbs planted in > the ground where they would be more insulated from night time > vernalizing temperatures during the winter. > > Nathan > > > At 01:13 PM 10/15/2020, you wrote: > Not all species are the same. The genus Lycoris is composed of 2 > quite distinct subgenera. The subgenus that includes the spring > foliage species most notably L. squamigera, L. chinensis and others > produces is annual foliage in spring at the end of winter. They bloom > in late summer and early fall months after the foliage has gone > dormant. These species and their hybrids are generally quite cold > hardy through Zone 5 and generally grow and bloom best no warmer than > Zone 7/8. > > At 09:05 AM 10/15/2020, you wrote: > This brings up another puzzling lycoris issue. Everything I've ever > read has repeated that Lycoris x squamigera flowers only after a very > cold, long winter, which is why it flowers reliably in cold climates, > but not in warmer regions. > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 21:55:33 -0400 > From: Judy Glattstein <jgglatt@gmail.com> > To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris behavior > Message-ID: <b293357e-81ad-d8d4-8720-9380d423e80e@gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Nathan, do you think it would help if the black pot was painted white, > to reflect sunlight rather than absorbing the heat? > > I use spray paint with primer included. Very easy as long as you don't > choose a windy day! > > > Judy in western New Jersey where I'm almost ready to clear out the > "potting shed"? turning it back into a garage again and park my car > under cover once more > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus/ > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 19:41:38 -0700 > From: Nathan Lange <plantsman@comcast.net> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris behavior > Message-ID: > <mailman.1575.1602902501.117284.pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > > Yes, that would probably help. I've considered simply moving the pot > to the shade during the summer but I find the current situation > interesting. The orientation of the pot has never changed but it's > only one pot so my interpretation of what's going on could be > wrong. It's really not a species I recommend growing here since > flowering time overlaps with the earliest Amaryllis belladonna > hybrids which are superior here in nearly every respect (not true in > places where winter hardiness is an issue). > > Nathan > > > At 06:55 PM 10/16/2020, you wrote: > >Nathan, do you think it would help if the black pot was painted > >white, to reflect sunlight rather than absorbing the heat? > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 17:08:13 -0400 > From: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu> > To: Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com> > Cc: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris > Message-ID: > < > CAC_Hx1FcabeBqUXW3bQ7-eW3ZRnE-A_4Z1oEBtc0rNVMGyA8ow@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > Oops, I missed that point in Jim's post. This year in my garden (a few > milies from PDN) a number of spring-foliage Lycoris bloomed for me without > recent lifting: L. sprengeri, L. chinensis, and L. longituba and a few > spring-foliage hybrids, Momozono, Lemon Yellow Spider, and October Bronze. > The species are in sun, but the hybrids all have overhead shade. Overall a > pretty good year, and have hundreds of seeds from dozens of crosses to grow > up. > > On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 2:56 PM Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com> wrote: > > > Bill; > > > > > > > > In checking our records, the only spring-foliage species that flowered > > well this year and was not divided the year prior was L. sprengeri. L.. > > chinensis, L. longituba, L. x squamigera, L. x incarnata all flowered > well > > this year when divided, but not at all on undivided clumps. > > > > > > > > As for shade, we typically see much better flowering on spring-leaved > > species when grown in shade, as Jim alluded to in his post. Add to that > > list, any fall flowered species, whose foliage burns badly in winter sun. > > > > > > > > Tony Avent > > > > Proprietor > > > > tony@plantdelights.com > > > > Juniper Level Botanic Garden <http://www.juniperlevelbotanicgarden.org/> > > and Plant Delights Nursery <http://www.plantdelights.com/> > > > > Ph 919.772.4794/fx 919.772.4752 > > > > 9241 Sauls Road, Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA > > > > USDA Zone 7b/Winter 0-5 F/Summer 95-105F > > > > "Preserving, Studying, Propagating, and Sharing the World?s Flora? > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… > Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> > > > ------------------------------ > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 44, Issue 15 > *********************************** > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
