Hi Bruce,
I germinate a lot of seeds in perlite in disposable "tupperware" type containers, where I can provide 100% humidity without standing water and without the gnat larvae and other things that often come along in pro-mix. The bugs can wreak havoc on things like calla, where they bore in as soon as a root pops through the seed coat and proceed to hollow out the whole thing.
The perlite also makes it easy to lift the seedlings out without any root damage so they can easily be moved to individual pots. I use this method exclusively for my Eucomis crosses.
Do you think this method might work for Haemanthus? My epiphyte house routinely gets into the low 50s F in winter, but I can easily do the germination indoors on a sunny windowsill.
Bob Zone 7 in East Tennessee
On Monday, November 2, 2020, 03:53:06 PM EST, Bruce Schroder via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
Dr Bob has asked if I could share advice on external stimulus for seed
germination and planting of Haemanthus coccineus as it would be a great
help to his seed recipients.
As previously advised, the seed germinates *without* external stimulus so
it could simply be left on the kitchen bench and in a number of weeks a
small radicle (the first root) would begin to protrude from the seed. If
left on the bench, this radicle would continue to elongate, using up the
stored energy of the seed. It will even develop its first small leaf but
at some point this stored energy will be depleted and unless the root is
carefully embedded into growing media where new sources of energy can be
accessed, it will simply wither away.
Rather than leave the seeds on the bench, it is probably better to plant
them on the surface of the growing media immediately upon receipt! The
same germination process will occur but in this instance, the radicle will
"magically" grow downwards toward the growing media , even if it initially
protrudes from the top of the seed. It is best to plant the seed by
pushing it into the surface of the growing media, leaving it just exposed
rather than covered. Young seedlings should be allowed to develop in the
seed raising community pot for at least 2-3 years before being separated
out during their summer dormancy and potted individually. Under ideal
growing conditions they can be ready to flower in 5-6 years from seed
sowing.
H coccineus is a winter grower and will not tolerate temperatures much
lower than 5C although once mature, very short periods below this may be
tolerated.
Bruce Schroder
Melbourne, Australia
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