Hydrogen peroxide is sold in drug stores as a 3% solution. I have used it a few times to germinate some Acacia and various Proteacea. I used an overnight soak without dilution. Romulea sabulosa germinated for me in 43 days, about the same as other Romulea, without special treatment. It is a winter-growing plant. Seeds should be planted in late fall to take advantage of day to night temperature swings, and kept quite moist until sprouting. I used coarse sharp local sand, derived from a mixture of rocks. My climate is quite arid. My Romulea sprouting containers stand in water until seedlings are up, and then I keep them quite wet. People in more humid climates see rot under these conditions. Leo Martin Zone 9? Phoenix Arizona USA On Jan 11, 2015 2:54 AM, <pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote: > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Hippeastrum ID query (Nicholas Plummer) > 2. Re: Hippeastrum ID query (Alberto) > 3. Lotusland comments (Jim Foster) > 4. Haemanthus humilis (Stephen Putman) > 5. Re: Haemanthus humilis (Kipp McMichael) > 6. Re: Haemanthus humilis (Stephen Putman) > 7. Re: Haemanthus humilis (Kipp McMichael) > 8. paroxide and germination breaker (Seaton Ager) > 9. germinating Romulea Sabulosa (Seaton Ager) > 10. Re: Lotusland comments (Shmuel Silinsky) > 11. Re: paroxide and germination breaker (Peter Taggart) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 10:32:02 -0500 > From: Nicholas Plummer <nickplummer@gmail.com> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum ID query > Message-ID: <C85C7DA9-D99B-4563-823D-65B5E990E920@gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > James, > > thanks for the reply. For what it's worth, the first plant does produce a > huge number of bulbils. > > On Jan 10, 2015, at 10:21 AM, James SHIELDS <jshields46074@gmail.com> > wrote: > > > The first looks more like Hippeastrum puniceum to me. H. striatum is > quite > > variable and H. petiolatum is probably mainly distingueshed from striatum > > (if it is in fact a different species) but reproducing mainly fro > bulbils. > > > > The second looks like reginae to me, but I haven't grown reginae myself > if > > at least 20 years. > > > > Both of your bulbs look quite nice, in any case! > > > > Jim S. > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 15:48:59 +0000 > From: Alberto <ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum ID query > Message-ID: <BAY168-W81056BB541CE543CBA3AAFAE450@phx.gbl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Now that you mention it, Ji, the frantic production of bulbils in > petiolatum is a result of the stupid mania of potting Hippeastrum uprooted, > with the bulb exposed. I never found any wild petiolatum (and many other > species) with exposed bulbs, all had an 2-3 in. neck below the ground and > invariably had a few bulbils attached. > > The two or three species that are epiphytic by force are completely > exceptional in the genus. > > > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 10:21:02 -0500 > > From: jshields46074@gmail.com > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum ID query > > > > The first looks more like Hippeastrum puniceum to me. H. striatum is > quite > > variable and H. petiolatum is probably mainly distingueshed from striatum > > (if it is in fact a different species) but reproducing mainly fro > bulbils. > > > > The second looks like reginae to me, but I haven't grown reginae myself > if > > at least 20 years. > > > > Both of your bulbs look quite nice, in any case! > > > > Jim S. > > > > > > > > On Sat, Jan 10, 2015 at 10:13 AM, Nicholas plummer < > nickplummer@gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > Can anyone help me confirm IDs on some Hippeastrum blooming in my > > > greenhouse? > > > > > > 1. In 2013, I received small offset bulbs of two Hippeastrums from > BX341. > > > 341-24 was Hippestrum petiolatum, NNBH1304. 341-25 was Hippeastrum > > > striatum. Due to carelessness while unpacking, I may have mixed up the > > > tags. One is blooming now: > > > > > > > > > > http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/myrmecodia/… > > > > > > Is there any hope of figuring out which plant this is? > > > > > > 2. I recently purchased a plant labeled H. reginae from one of the > general > > > bulb vendors (because Telos was sold out). Do you think it is > correctly > > > labeled? > > > > > > > > > > http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/myrmecodia/… > > > > > > side view: > > > > > > > http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/myrmecodia/… > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > > > Nick Plummer > > > Durham, NC, USA, Zone 7 > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > James Shields jshields46074@gmail.com > > P.O. Box 92 > > Westfield, IN 46074 > > U.S.A. > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 08:19:12 -0800 > From: Jim Foster <fosterjp@cox.net> > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Lotusland comments > Message-ID: <54B15100.106@cox.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Paul Licht mentioned Lotusland in his post. I happen to be a docent > there and give tours often. One feature of Lotusland is the huge > planting of clivia lily. The bed is about 100 feet long by 25 feet > wide. In bloom it can be quite spectacular. Some years are better than > others so the argument is between good and great... > > There are few other bulbs there Haemanthus being the most common. The > plant diversity is quite large with over 2500 taxa on 22 acres including > one of the world's largest collection of cycads, over 150 species of > both aloes and cacti and one of my favorites a half acre Dracaena draco > forest including a 130+ year old specimen. > > For those curious here is a video tour made by a local quadracopter > driver but being there is much more impressive. > > http://lotusland.org/explore-garden/… > > > Jim > Santa Barbara > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:25:28 -0500 (EST) > From: Stephen Putman <putman@pobox.upenn.edu> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis > Message-ID: > <1421088428.2525883.1420928728717.JavaMail.root@zimbra.upenn.edu> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > I have a Haem. humilis humilis received from BX203 May 2009. It has > bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014. At this moment the leaves are drooping a > few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot. It should now > probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot. > > Question 1 - when to pot? > > Question 2 - what size, 10" or 12"? > > Thanks, Stephen Putman > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:32:24 -0800 > From: Kipp McMichael <kimcmich@hotmail.com> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis > Message-ID: <BLU168-W37D744C93CDDF84CE5F186CC420@phx.gbl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Greetings, > You cannot overpot Amaryllids (from their perspective - you're back my > beg to differ) and in my experience transplating when the bulb is in active > growth is best. That means when the bulb has started growth for the season > or when it's leaves are still expanding. I would not try to repot an > Amaryllid going into dormancy. > -|<ipp > > > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:25:28 -0500 > > From: putman@pobox.upenn.edu > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis > > > > I have a Haem. humilis humilis received from BX203 May 2009. It has > bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014. At this moment the leaves are drooping a > few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot. It should now > probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot. > > > > Question 1 - when to pot? > > > > Question 2 - what size, 10" or 12"? > > > > Thanks, Stephen Putman > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 23:33:53 -0500 (EST) > From: Stephen Putman <putman@pobox.upenn.edu> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis > Message-ID: > <1443915632.2560573.1420950833084.JavaMail.root@zimbra.upenn.edu> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Thanks Kipp, > > This is a "summer growing" Haemanthus. As such, here in Delaware, US, it > sends up a flower mid to late summer, and leaves a bit later, but not (at > least for this plant) in a rigidly defined sequence. That means that my > plant is now at or near the end of its growth for this season and I expect > the leaves to begin to yellow at the tips, with the likelihood of their > being more or less "gone" by spring. No new leaf growth likely until > July/August. So, by your measure repotting in Sept. or Oct.? > > Steve > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kipp McMichael" <kimcmich@hotmail.com> > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 8:32:24 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis > > Greetings, > You cannot overpot Amaryllids (from their perspective - you're back my > beg to differ) and in my experience transplating when the bulb is in active > growth is best. That means when the bulb has started growth for the season > or when it's leaves are still expanding. I would not try to repot an > Amaryllid going into dormancy. > -|<ipp > > > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:25:28 -0500 > > From: putman@pobox.upenn.edu > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis > > > > I have a Haem. humilis humilis received from BX203 May 2009. It has > bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014. At this moment the leaves are drooping a > few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot. It should now > probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot. > > > > Question 1 - when to pot? > > > > Question 2 - what size, 10" or 12"? > > > > Thanks, Stephen Putman > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 23:17:41 -0800 > From: Kipp McMichael <kimcmich@hotmail.com> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis > Message-ID: <BLU168-W8083BD2283DF240233A8A0CC420@phx.gbl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Steve, > Yes - the general idea is to catch the plant on the upswing of each > season - so any damage you do during the repot has the best chance of > healing. I have moved bulbs just before they would normally leaf all the > way through bulbs that had large, but still growing, leaves without a > problem. Though Amaryllids can sometimes sulk the season after a repot, > they respond well to the increased space thereafter. > -|<ipp > > > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 23:33:53 -0500 > > From: putman@pobox.upenn.edu > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis > > > > Thanks Kipp, > > > > This is a "summer growing" Haemanthus. As such, here in Delaware, US, > it sends up a flower mid to late summer, and leaves a bit later, but not > (at least for this plant) in a rigidly defined sequence. That means that > my plant is now at or near the end of its growth for this season and I > expect the leaves to begin to yellow at the tips, with the likelihood of > their being more or less "gone" by spring. No new leaf growth likely until > July/August. So, by your measure repotting in Sept. or Oct.? > > > > Steve > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Kipp McMichael" <kimcmich@hotmail.com> > > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > > Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 8:32:24 PM > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis > > > > Greetings, > > You cannot overpot Amaryllids (from their perspective - you're back my > beg to differ) and in my experience transplating when the bulb is in active > growth is best. That means when the bulb has started growth for the season > or when it's leaves are still expanding. I would not try to repot an > Amaryllid going into dormancy. > > -|<ipp > > > > > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:25:28 -0500 > > > From: putman@pobox.upenn.edu > > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis > > > > > > I have a Haem. humilis humilis received from BX203 May 2009. It has > bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014. At this moment the leaves are drooping a > few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot. It should now > probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot. > > > > > > Question 1 - when to pot? > > > > > > Question 2 - what size, 10" or 12"? > > > > > > Thanks, Stephen Putman > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 07:48:34 +0000 (UTC) > From: Seaton Ager <m.ager@xtra.co.nz> > To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Subject: [pbs] paroxide and germination breaker > Message-ID: > < > 26810350.251040.1420962514116.JavaMail.yahoo@jws100107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Hi Read the into about using Paroxide to soak seeds in, can you give me > ratio to water please. Also I am in New Zealand is there any members here > in NZ who knows what can be used to beak germination dormancy, I know > around the world I read about GA3 but not sure what we can use in NZ.?Many > thanks Mel > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 07:51:41 +0000 (UTC) > From: Seaton Ager <m.ager@xtra.co.nz> > To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Subject: [pbs] germinating Romulea Sabulosa > Message-ID: > < > 827792769.245786.1420962701664.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10036.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Mel again in New Zealand, has anyone got any idea how to break the dormany > of romulea sabulosa. I have soaked in smoke water, I have done the correct > temperature day and night but still no success. I can germinate other > romulea but this one has no luck.many thanks, and I am loving the PBS, lots > of interesting information and nice to here from other members.Mel > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 04:15:45 -0500 > From: Shmuel Silinsky <gardenbetter@gmail.com> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Lotusland comments > Message-ID: > <CACHBJeF7hpv4oMo+tFmvrPE= > 1n3XU3s53+3thzJNXZTQ3_Nctg@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Graey video!! I have seen photos from Lotusland many times, but never got > a real feel for the place before. Thank you! > > Shmuel > Jerusalem, Israel > > On Sat, Jan 10, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Jim Foster <fosterjp@cox.net> wrote: > > > Paul Licht mentioned Lotusland in his post. I happen to be a docent > there > > and give tours often. One feature of Lotusland is the huge planting of > > clivia lily. The bed is about 100 feet long by 25 feet wide. In bloom > it > > can be quite spectacular. Some years are better than others so the > > argument is between good and great... > > > > There are few other bulbs there Haemanthus being the most common. The > > plant diversity is quite large with over 2500 taxa on 22 acres including > > one of the world's largest collection of cycads, over 150 species of both > > aloes and cacti and one of my favorites a half acre Dracaena draco forest > > including a 130+ year old specimen. > > > > For those curious here is a video tour made by a local quadracopter > driver > > but being there is much more impressive. > > > > http://lotusland.org/explore-garden/… > > > > > > Jim > > Santa Barbara > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 09:52:30 +0000 > From: Peter Taggart <petersirises@gmail.com> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Subject: Re: [pbs] paroxide and germination breaker > Message-ID: > < > CAELwaKj663jcDrNd5zc2cKsOcYskKTMejPB50GA0vpOtoV-sUA@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > soaking seeds in a solution of detergent or soap is conventional. You can > add some chlorine to it, which will kill of moulds and sterilise the > seed's coat. > I have been told that hormone rooting powder should be bought fresh, and is > essentially GA. I have not used it myself. > Peter (UK) > > On 11 January 2015 at 07:48, Seaton Ager <m.ager@xtra.co.nz> wrote: > > > here in NZ who knows what can be used to beak germination dormancy, I > > know around the world I read about GA3 but not sure what we can use in > > NZ. Many thanks Mel > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > ------------------------------ > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 144, Issue 9 > *********************************** >
