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Today's Topics:

1. Re: Hippeastrum ID query (Nicholas Plummer)
2. Re: Hippeastrum ID query (Alberto)
3. Lotusland comments (Jim Foster)
4. Haemanthus humilis (Stephen Putman)
5. Re: Haemanthus humilis (Kipp McMichael)
6. Re: Haemanthus humilis (Stephen Putman)
7. Re: Haemanthus humilis (Kipp McMichael)
8. paroxide and germination breaker (Seaton Ager)
9. germinating Romulea Sabulosa (Seaton Ager)
10. Re: Lotusland comments (Shmuel Silinsky)
11. Re: paroxide and germination breaker (Peter Taggart)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 10:32:02 -0500
From: Nicholas Plummer <nickplummer@gmail.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum ID query
Message-ID: <C85C7DA9-D99B-4563-823D-65B5E990E920@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

James,

thanks for the reply. For what it's worth, the first plant does produce a
huge number of bulbils.

On Jan 10, 2015, at 10:21 AM, James SHIELDS <jshields46074@gmail.com>
wrote:

quite

bulbils.

if

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 15:48:59 +0000
From: Alberto <ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum ID query
Message-ID: <BAY168-W81056BB541CE543CBA3AAFAE450@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Now that you mention it, Ji, the frantic production of bulbils in
petiolatum is a result of the stupid mania of potting Hippeastrum uprooted,
with the bulb exposed. I never found any wild petiolatum (and many other
species) with exposed bulbs, all had an 2-3 in. neck below the ground and
invariably had a few bulbils attached.

The two or three species that are epiphytic by force are completely
exceptional in the genus.

quite

bulbils.

if

nickplummer@gmail.com>

BX341.

http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/myrmecodia/…

general

correctly

http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/myrmecodia/…

http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/myrmecodia/…

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 08:19:12 -0800
From: Jim Foster <fosterjp@cox.net>
To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [pbs] Lotusland comments
Message-ID: <54B15100.106@cox.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Paul Licht mentioned Lotusland in his post. I happen to be a docent
there and give tours often. One feature of Lotusland is the huge
planting of clivia lily. The bed is about 100 feet long by 25 feet
wide. In bloom it can be quite spectacular. Some years are better than
others so the argument is between good and great...

There are few other bulbs there Haemanthus being the most common. The
plant diversity is quite large with over 2500 taxa on 22 acres including
one of the world's largest collection of cycads, over 150 species of
both aloes and cacti and one of my favorites a half acre Dracaena draco
forest including a 130+ year old specimen.

For those curious here is a video tour made by a local quadracopter
driver but being there is much more impressive.

http://lotusland.org/explore-garden/…

Jim
Santa Barbara

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:25:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Stephen Putman <putman@pobox.upenn.edu>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
Message-ID:
<1421088428.2525883.1420928728717.JavaMail.root@zimbra.upenn.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I have a Haem. humilis humilis received from BX203 May 2009. It has
bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014. At this moment the leaves are drooping a
few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot. It should now
probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot.

Question 1 - when to pot?

Question 2 - what size, 10" or 12"?

Thanks, Stephen Putman

------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:32:24 -0800
From: Kipp McMichael <kimcmich@hotmail.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
Message-ID: <BLU168-W37D744C93CDDF84CE5F186CC420@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Greetings,
You cannot overpot Amaryllids (from their perspective - you're back my
beg to differ) and in my experience transplating when the bulb is in active
growth is best. That means when the bulb has started growth for the season
or when it's leaves are still expanding. I would not try to repot an
Amaryllid going into dormancy.
-|<ipp

bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014. At this moment the leaves are drooping a
few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot. It should now
probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot.

------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 23:33:53 -0500 (EST)
From: Stephen Putman <putman@pobox.upenn.edu>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
Message-ID:
<1443915632.2560573.1420950833084.JavaMail.root@zimbra.upenn.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Thanks Kipp,

This is a "summer growing" Haemanthus. As such, here in Delaware, US, it
sends up a flower mid to late summer, and leaves a bit later, but not (at
least for this plant) in a rigidly defined sequence. That means that my
plant is now at or near the end of its growth for this season and I expect
the leaves to begin to yellow at the tips, with the likelihood of their
being more or less "gone" by spring. No new leaf growth likely until
July/August. So, by your measure repotting in Sept. or Oct.?

Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kipp McMichael" <kimcmich@hotmail.com>
To: "Pacific Bulb Society" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 8:32:24 PM
Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis

Greetings,
You cannot overpot Amaryllids (from their perspective - you're back my
beg to differ) and in my experience transplating when the bulb is in active
growth is best. That means when the bulb has started growth for the season
or when it's leaves are still expanding. I would not try to repot an
Amaryllid going into dormancy.
-|<ipp

bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014. At this moment the leaves are drooping a
few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot. It should now
probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot.

_______________________________________________
pbs mailing list
pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/

------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 23:17:41 -0800
From: Kipp McMichael <kimcmich@hotmail.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
Message-ID: <BLU168-W8083BD2283DF240233A8A0CC420@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Steve,
Yes - the general idea is to catch the plant on the upswing of each
season - so any damage you do during the repot has the best chance of
healing. I have moved bulbs just before they would normally leaf all the
way through bulbs that had large, but still growing, leaves without a
problem. Though Amaryllids can sometimes sulk the season after a repot,
they respond well to the increased space thereafter.
-|<ipp

it sends up a flower mid to late summer, and leaves a bit later, but not
(at least for this plant) in a rigidly defined sequence. That means that
my plant is now at or near the end of its growth for this season and I
expect the leaves to begin to yellow at the tips, with the likelihood of
their being more or less "gone" by spring. No new leaf growth likely until
July/August. So, by your measure repotting in Sept. or Oct.?

beg to differ) and in my experience transplating when the bulb is in active
growth is best. That means when the bulb has started growth for the season
or when it's leaves are still expanding. I would not try to repot an
Amaryllid going into dormancy.

bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014. At this moment the leaves are drooping a
few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot. It should now
probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot.

------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 07:48:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: Seaton Ager <m.ager@xtra.co.nz>
To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [pbs] paroxide and germination breaker
Message-ID:
<
26810350.251040.1420962514116.JavaMail.yahoo@jws100107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Hi Read the into about using Paroxide to soak seeds in, can you give me
ratio to water please. Also I am in New Zealand is there any members here
in NZ who knows what can be used to beak germination dormancy, I know
around the world I read about GA3 but not sure what we can use in NZ.?Many
thanks Mel

------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 07:51:41 +0000 (UTC)
From: Seaton Ager <m.ager@xtra.co.nz>
To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [pbs] germinating Romulea Sabulosa
Message-ID:
<
827792769.245786.1420962701664.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10036.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Mel again in New Zealand, has anyone got any idea how to break the dormany
of romulea sabulosa. I have soaked in smoke water, I have done the correct
temperature day and night but still no success. I can germinate other
romulea but this one has no luck.many thanks, and I am loving the PBS, lots
of interesting information and nice to here from other members.Mel

------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 04:15:45 -0500
From: Shmuel Silinsky <gardenbetter@gmail.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Lotusland comments
Message-ID:
<CACHBJeF7hpv4oMo+tFmvrPE=
1n3XU3s53+3thzJNXZTQ3_Nctg@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Graey video!! I have seen photos from Lotusland many times, but never got
a real feel for the place before. Thank you!

Shmuel
Jerusalem, Israel

On Sat, Jan 10, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Jim Foster <fosterjp@cox.net> wrote:

there

it

driver

------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 09:52:30 +0000
From: Peter Taggart <petersirises@gmail.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [pbs] paroxide and germination breaker
Message-ID:
<
CAELwaKj663jcDrNd5zc2cKsOcYskKTMejPB50GA0vpOtoV-sUA@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

soaking seeds in a solution of detergent or soap is conventional. You can
add some chlorine to it, which will kill of moulds and sterilise the
seed's coat.
I have been told that hormone rooting powder should be bought fresh, and is
essentially GA. I have not used it myself.
Peter (UK)

On 11 January 2015 at 07:48, Seaton Ager <m.ager@xtra.co.nz> wrote:

------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

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------------------------------

End of pbs Digest, Vol 144, Issue 9
***********************************