Supersoil
Hannon (Mon, 24 Nov 2008 08:21:02 PST)

The Supersoil change came some time ago and I've heard many growers
repeat what Diana says here. All products are subject to change. Even
a favorite plastic container can retain the same catalogue number but
if they change the die to save material you have a thinner, less
useful pot.

For seed mixes, I use an organic base, often peat-based but there are
other options. This component mostly provides moisture-retention and
"fluffs up" the mix to prevent compaction of the roots. Perlite also
improves aeration and prevents sogginess and compaction.

Finally, I add sand (about 25%) and this is very helpful for several
reasons: it allows easier re-wetting when mix is dry, it adds some
weight/firmness and provides insulation when bulbs are dormant.
Otherwise a peat-based or organic-based mix has a tendency to shrink
into a ball when very dry (as in dormancy) and makes for more work
overall. When seedling pots are on the dry side during repotting, a
sandy mix makes separation of roots easier, and sand has an overall
effect of extending the life of the mix. Sand is also inert and so
never sours or degrades; most forms of it are also very cheap.

Dylan Hannon
Dylan Hannon Rare Bulbs

On 24/11/2008, Telos Rare Bulbs <telosrarebulbs@suddenlink.net> wrote:

I have to comment on the recommendation for starting Tecophilaea seeds in
Supersoil.

I used to use Supersoil, and it was a great product, steam sterilized and
mostly finely ground fir bark. Good stuff. Then the company was bought and
everything changed. It is no longer sterilized, and I won't say what it
looks like, since I don't want to get sued. It sure doesn't look like
ground fir bark. I don't use it any more and I would never recommend it,
even for mature bulbs.

For seed starting I now use a seed starting mix from McConkey. It is very
finely ground peat moss with some vermiculite and perlite, plus a wetting
agent and some dolomite to adjust the pH. I add more perlite, since for
some species it is a bit too moisture retentive. It is very expensive,
especially with shipping. For small batches of seed you can make your own
seed starting mix by buying sphagnum peat moss and grinding it in a food
processor or blender. You can add a wetting agent, although it's not really
necessary for small pots, plus about 30% perlite for bulb seeds, and about a
quarter teaspoon of dolomitic lime for a quart of mix to adjust the pH. The
mix will be sterile, very important if you are sowing precious seed like
Tecophialaea.

Diana
Telos Rare Bulbs
http://www.telosrarebulbs.com/
http://www.thebulbmaven.typepad.com/

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