Dear All, We are very fortunate to have an introduction to our topic of the week from Martin Philippo who responded to my request for an introduction even though he was not a member of our forum. He has joined so he can answer any questions you might have about this genus. He also provided me with some pictures to add to the wiki: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/… More pictures can be found on his web site (see below.) Mary Sue I think we are all familiar with the humble grape hyacinth. These attractive flowers bloom in many gardens, together with daffodils and tulips. My intention is to inform you in this article about the not so well known species. My name is Martin Philippo. I live in Noordwijkerhout, the Netherlands, in the heart of the flower bulbs district. I grew up on my father's nursery, surrounded by hyacinths, crocus, tulips and of course Muscaris. Fourteen years ago I left the company but my love for bulbs has never left me. I still work in the business, inspecting products for Darwin Plants, a well know exporter of flower bulbs and perennials. In my spare time I have a collection of Muscaris and run a website about the genus. The most well known Muscari is Muscari armeniacum. This grape hyacinth is sold by the millions throughout the world. It is the most versatile of all, useable for gardens, cut flowers and pots. It is however not the oldest of them all, it was described by Mr Baker in 1882. Before that horticulturists and gardeners already knew about Muscari muscarimi, which goes back as far as 1554. One of its synonyms is Muscari moschatum, to which we thank the genus name of Muscari. The scent of this species is very much like musk and very sweet. (Latin: muscus = musk like) Muscaris can be found in their natural habitats around the Mediterranean Sea from Spain all the way round to Morocco. Many species originate from Turkey but some can be found in the Caucasus. Up north they grow in vineyards in Austria and France. They are even found in the USA as garden escapees. Some grow on dry mountain slopes, some in (mountain) meadows. There is a Muscari for every situation. The genus Muscari consists of approximately 60 different species, divided into four subgenera. These subgenera, sometimes called groups, are: Botryanthus group (Sometimes called the true Grape Hyacinths) These all have pale blue to blackish-blue flowers (apart from the occasional albino), usually globose to obovoid in shape with a very constricted mouth; they are carried in racemes which are compact and dense with the flowers almost touching, although they may become spaced out later on. The colour of the perianth lobes ('teeth') should be noted. These are mostly easy to cultivate and include some of the best-known species such as M. armeniacum and M. neglectum. They flower in early spring. Pseudomuscari group These have, like the above, flowers in shades of blue, often pale or rather bright blue, and are mostly smallish plants with fairly densely flowered racemes. The characteristic feature is that the bell-shaped perianth is not constricted at the mouth. They are also early spring-flowering and easily cultivated. In this group you will find species like M. azureum, M. discolor, M. inconstrictum and M. parviflorum. Leopoldia-group These are on the whole much taller plants than the above two groups with the flowers more widely spread on the raceme. The fertile flowers are longer, usually urn-shaped or tubular with angular 'shoulders' just below the constricted mouth. The colour is usually some shade of whitish, yellowish, greenish or brown, never blue, although there is often a conspicuous tuft of bright violet, blue or pinkish sterile flowers at the apex of the raceme. The colour of the perianth lobes, which are very small, is important in distinguishing the species. The species of the Leopoldia-group flower later than those of the above two groups, in late spring or early summer. They are relatively easy to cultivate in warm sunny situations. In this group: M. comosum, M. cycladium, M. dionysicum, M. weissii. Muscarimia group There are only two species in this group. They have large bulbs with thick fleshy perennial roots which delve down into the rocky ground of their natural habitat in Turkey and the east Aegean region. The stout stems carry racemes of large elongated flowers, which have six projections just below the mouth, giving a corona-like effect. They have a strong fragrance and are either yellow or whitish, faintly tinted green or blue, with brown lobes which are so small that they are more like small teeth. Sterile flowers few, minute and violet, or none. Since they come from hot sun baked hillsides they are best grown in a bulb frame or alpine house in a deep pot to accommodate their strong roots. The genus Muscari is suffering from lack of accurate name giving. Over the years many botanists and taxonomists have named and synonymised many species. In natural habitats variations occur and many of those variations have been given a species name. Later many of these species have been lumped together into another species, most noticeably in M. armeniacum and M. neglectum. Many of these variations are in my opinion very distinct and should be given the status of species. Confusion has also played its part. In the days of the big plant hunting, the 19th century, botanical descriptions were not always very accurate and communication wasn't as it is today. In some cases two people described one species and each gave it its own name. Dividing the genus into four different subgenera is also worth discussion. Some taxonomists wish to split the genus Muscari into four different ones, others are happy with the classification into subgenera. The whole genus is desperately in need of revision. Muscaris can be used in many ways. At the famous Keukenhof Gardens in Lisse, Holland, I have seen them planted as a blue 'river', used en masse. This is truly the most spectacular display a Muscari lover can wish for. Planting more than 100,000 bulbs is of course not what we 'normal' gardeners can afford. Instead we buy our bulbs in amounts of 25 or 50. Plant these bulbs in groups in your border, accompanied by perennials like Draba, Primula or Doronicum. I like the combination with pink or red Phlox subulata . Please, avoid those square blocks, or worse: long straight rows. Your Muscaris will look too unnatural and won't do your garden any good. For a natural touch the bulbs can be planted in little groups of 3 or 5, in between other bulbs, perennials or even the lawn. Muscaris prefer a neutral to alkaline soil although a slightly acid soil will usually be tolerated. Good drainage is essential. All species like a sunny to semi-shady spot. Planting depth should be, as with all bulbs, twice the height of the bulb. For naturalizing I would recommend a bit deeper, especially in colder areas. Winter hardiness is, by the way, not a problem; they will survive most cold winters. Rock gardeners will get great value out of many Muscari species. Choose the ones that don't multiply too rapidly; otherwise the bulbs can get too invasive. Cultivars of Muscari armeniacum and Muscari neglectum are such rampant growers. For a touch of delicacy try Muscari pallens instead, or choose the bulbs of Muscari macrocarpum, for its bright yellow flowers and lovely sweet fragrance. Other good rockery plants are: M. aucheri, M. azureum, M. bourgaei, M. latifolium, M. muscarimi or M. pseudomuscari. Some gardeners and collectors grow their bulbs in a pot, in the glasshouse. Muscaris are ideal for this purpose as they can be kept dry during their dormant season this way. Plant the bulbs in a deep pot, filled with a mix of sand, grit and multi purpose potting soil. A small amount of fertiliser, like blood fish and bone meal, can be added. Needless to say the pots need holes for drainage. The pots should be kept cold for at least 10 weeks, at a temperature of no more than 10 degrees. C (50 F). If your glasshouse is unheated the pots can stay in the glasshouse until the springtime. Remember bulbs planted in pots are more sensitive to frost, especially when not rooted properly. Pots are best plunged in a sand bed so watering can be done from below and drying out won't be likely. Give the bulbs a feed in springtime. Muscaris often form many bulblets and to keep bulbs of flowering size they have to kept well fed. In the glasshouse they enjoy full sun but keep the place shaded when the sun is too bright. A sudden boost of sunlight could trigger them to go dormant earlier. Propagation of Muscaris can be done in two ways: bulblets and seeds. Most will form seed although some species require hand pollination with a fine brush. Hybrids of course won't come true from seed but this gives us an opportunity to do a bit of hybridising. Cross pollination doesn't happen very easily. I grow many species and cultivars close together, but hybrids don't occur often. Sow the seed in fall, in pots, thinly , and cover them with a thin layer of soil. The pots can be kept outside, protected from the severest frosts, under a pane of glass. In springtime the glass is removed. Grow the seedlings for two years in their pots, making sure they are not lacking food, sun and water. After that the formed bulblets can be planted out, either individually in pots or in a nursery bed. After three or four years bulbs will have grown to flowering size. Bulblets can easily be detached from the mother bulb in the summer, when it is dormant. Lift the bulbs, dry them for a week or two and gently take off the bulblets formed at the bottom of the bulb. After this the bulbs need drying again for two weeks to seal the wounds. The bulblets can be grown as with young seedlings. Bulbs of flowering size can be had in two years, sometimes even in one. I grow my Muscaris in the open ground in the sandy, free draining and alkaline soil we have here. I plant, lift and divide them every year. Soil and growing conditions are ideal for Muscari growing here. Grown under the right conditions Muscaris are easily grown without diseases. On the Muscari pages some of the diseases that occur in Muscari are mentioned. The most common is the Penicillium fungus, which predominantly attacks bulbs when they are lifted and not dried properly. Prevention is 'easy'; store your dormant bulbs in a warm, dry and well ventilated place. Watch your bulbs when you buy; check bags for any mouldy bulbs. Only buy bulbs that look healthy, wealthy and white. For more about the genus Muscari, color photographs and descriptions of species and cultivars and other stuff: visit http://www.muscaripages.nl/ Martin Philippo