twin scaling quandry
DaveKarn@aol.com (Mon, 08 Dec 2003 22:43:01 PST)

In a message dated 08-Dec-03 5:36:18 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Bonsaigai37@aol.com writes:

Michael ~

I have a question about twin scaling Hippeastrum. After following a
combined
procedure by RHS and IBS, using Cleary's 3336F on the scales, in sterilized
perlite, I'm noticing an even pink coloration on the scales. I think, hmmm,

damnable Stagonospora... yet I used Bonomyl (Benlate sub) for soaking the
bulb
prior to storage, Bleach (1:10) prior to cuttage, and 3336F for the final
soak,
alcohol rinsed surfaces and sterile razors. Do Hippeastrum show red or pink

as a form or oxidation to damaged cells or is my culture simply
contaminated?
Any remedies?

I've not TS-ed hippeastrum, but have done a considerable amount with
daffodils (Narcissus) which, as tunicate bulbs, respond the same.

I'm not certain what you describe as "an even pink coloration on the scales"
really is. Is it clearly a fungus? I know that many bulbs of Hipp. are
plagued with stagonospora. The only cure I've seen for it is the hot water
treatment procedure.

It sounds from your description that you've done everything right. I'd make
two observations, however. Benomyl (and similar compounds) do not eradicate
these fungi, they only suppress them. Depending on the conditions during
incubation determines whether the suppression will hold or break down. One point
where this process often fails for many people is that the incubation medium
becomes too wet. I usually take the sections of the scaled bulb out of the
fungicide soak and drain them on paper toweling until dry. They're then placed
into Baggies with some barely damp medium (I usually use peat moss). When I say
"barely damp" that is exactly what it has to be. The object of the medium is
to assist in maintaining the humidity level. You're probably only going to
be raising it around 20-30% -- it doesn't take much additional moisture to do
that. And the other problem is that, as living tissue, these sections expire
moisture. That moisture collects in the sealed Baggie. One has to check the
moisture content every two or three weeks and replace the medium or leave the
Baggie open for some time to dry out the medium and contents. With strict
attention to the moisture in the incubation process, this whole thing is
relatively easy to do and usually quite successful. I have, however, gone to larger
sections and no longer work with true twin-scales. They are so small that it
just introduces another variable that has to be monitored and controlled.

Dave Karnstedt
Cascade Daffodils
P. O. Box 237
Silverton, Oregon 97381-02378
USA
email: davekarn@aol.com
Cool Mediterranean climate of wet winters and hot dry summers; USDA Zone 7-8