In a message dated 08-Dec-03 5:36:18 PM Pacific Standard Time, Bonsaigai37@aol.com writes: Michael ~ > I have a question about twin scaling Hippeastrum. After following a > combined > procedure by RHS and IBS, using Cleary's 3336F on the scales, in sterilized > perlite, I'm noticing an even pink coloration on the scales. I think, hmmm, > > damnable Stagonospora... yet I used Bonomyl (Benlate sub) for soaking the > bulb > prior to storage, Bleach (1:10) prior to cuttage, and 3336F for the final > soak, > alcohol rinsed surfaces and sterile razors. Do Hippeastrum show red or pink > > as a form or oxidation to damaged cells or is my culture simply > contaminated? > Any remedies? > I've not TS-ed hippeastrum, but have done a considerable amount with daffodils (Narcissus) which, as tunicate bulbs, respond the same. I'm not certain what you describe as "an even pink coloration on the scales" really is. Is it clearly a fungus? I know that many bulbs of Hipp. are plagued with stagonospora. The only cure I've seen for it is the hot water treatment procedure. It sounds from your description that you've done everything right. I'd make two observations, however. Benomyl (and similar compounds) do not eradicate these fungi, they only suppress them. Depending on the conditions during incubation determines whether the suppression will hold or break down. One point where this process often fails for many people is that the incubation medium becomes too wet. I usually take the sections of the scaled bulb out of the fungicide soak and drain them on paper toweling until dry. They're then placed into Baggies with some barely damp medium (I usually use peat moss). When I say "barely damp" that is exactly what it has to be. The object of the medium is to assist in maintaining the humidity level. You're probably only going to be raising it around 20-30% -- it doesn't take much additional moisture to do that. And the other problem is that, as living tissue, these sections expire moisture. That moisture collects in the sealed Baggie. One has to check the moisture content every two or three weeks and replace the medium or leave the Baggie open for some time to dry out the medium and contents. With strict attention to the moisture in the incubation process, this whole thing is relatively easy to do and usually quite successful. I have, however, gone to larger sections and no longer work with true twin-scales. They are so small that it just introduces another variable that has to be monitored and controlled. Dave Karnstedt Cascade Daffodils P. O. Box 237 Silverton, Oregon 97381-02378 USA email: davekarn@aol.com Cool Mediterranean climate of wet winters and hot dry summers; USDA Zone 7-8