twin scaling quandry
sgage4@eq.edu.au (Thu, 11 Dec 2003 21:36:08 PST)

Michael,
In Hippaestrum of which I have twinscaled a large number over the years the red colouring is a natural reaction to being cut- that's if it is the same colouring that I get. Its great to see the little babies when they start off! Hope this helped.
Shelley-Queensland.
----- Original Message -----
From: DaveKarn@aol.com
Date: Tuesday, December 9, 2003 4:43 pm
Subject: Re: [pbs] twin scaling quandry

In a message dated 08-Dec-03 5:36:18 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Bonsaigai37@aol.com writes:

Michael ~

I have a question about twin scaling Hippeastrum. After

following a

combined
procedure by RHS and IBS, using Cleary's 3336F on the scales, in

sterilized

perlite, I'm noticing an even pink coloration on the scales. I

think, hmmm,

damnable Stagonospora... yet I used Bonomyl (Benlate sub) for

soaking the

bulb
prior to storage, Bleach (1:10) prior to cuttage, and 3336F for

the final

soak,
alcohol rinsed surfaces and sterile razors. Do Hippeastrum show

red or pink

as a form or oxidation to damaged cells or is my culture simply
contaminated?
Any remedies?

I've not TS-ed hippeastrum, but have done a considerable amount
with
daffodils (Narcissus) which, as tunicate bulbs, respond the same.

I'm not certain what you describe as "an even pink coloration on
the scales"
really is. Is it clearly a fungus? I know that many bulbs of
Hipp. are
plagued with stagonospora. The only cure I've seen for it is the
hot water
treatment procedure.

It sounds from your description that you've done everything right.
I'd make
two observations, however. Benomyl (and similar compounds) do not
eradicate
these fungi, they only suppress them. Depending on the conditions
during
incubation determines whether the suppression will hold or break
down. One point
where this process often fails for many people is that the
incubation medium
becomes too wet. I usually take the sections of the scaled bulb
out of the
fungicide soak and drain them on paper toweling until dry.
They're then placed
into Baggies with some barely damp medium (I usually use peat
moss). When I say
"barely damp" that is exactly what it has to be. The object of
the medium is
to assist in maintaining the humidity level. You're probably only
going to
be raising it around 20-30% -- it doesn't take much additional
moisture to do
that. And the other problem is that, as living tissue, these
sections expire
moisture. That moisture collects in the sealed Baggie. One has
to check the
moisture content every two or three weeks and replace the medium
or leave the
Baggie open for some time to dry out the medium and contents.
With strict
attention to the moisture in the incubation process, this whole
thing is
relatively easy to do and usually quite successful. I have,
however, gone to larger
sections and no longer work with true twin-scales. They are so
small that it
just introduces another variable that has to be monitored and
controlled.
Dave Karnstedt
Cascade Daffodils
P. O. Box 237
Silverton, Oregon 97381-02378
USA
email: davekarn@aol.com
Cool Mediterranean climate of wet winters and hot dry summers;
USDA Zone 7-8
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