TOW N.H.Do in Mar.- Garden
Diane Whitehead (Sat, 28 Feb 2004 16:38:50 PST)

I missed the Do in February but if any of you did something
essential to your bulbs last month, please append it to your comments
for March, and I'll put them in the right place when the file goes to
the WIKI.
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In general, but also for Pacific Northwest North America and Western Europe -

PROTECT
Go out at night with a flashlight so you can see and remove the slugs
that would otherwise eat reticulata irises.

MOVE
Take note of any bulbs that have become shaded by the growth of
nearby shrubs or trees and move them to a sunny spot. If the sun
never shines on crocus or snowdrops, they won't open to reveal the
interesting markings inside, and bees won't pollinate them, so you
most likely won't get seed.

Snowdrops and other bulbs that have formed big clumps can be dug up
and spaced out or put in a new area. It is not necessary to do this
while they are "in the green" (ie. still have their leaves), but it
makes it easier to see where they are, and it is too easy to forget
to do it later.

POLLINATE
Pollinate any rare bulbs. Many clones are self-sterile, so use
pollen from a different plant, but be sure it really is a different
clone, and not just an offset from the one you are pollinating. Use
tweezers to remove a pollen-bearing anther, and dust it on the
central pistil, except for iris, which has the stigmatic surface
along the edge of a narrow "shelf" on the underside of the style arm,
just above the stamens. You can also use Q-tips or a section of pipe
cleaner and then throw them away. This is a lot cheaper than the
advice to use artist's brushes. You will not get seeds or fertile
pollen from the commercial Iris danfordiae which is a sterile
triploid.

FERTILIZE
Fertilize bulbs. Most bulbs are gross feeders while they are in
growth, because they must store nutrients for a good portion of the
year. Fertilizers should be low, but not totally deficient, in
nitrogen (the first number on a commercial fertilizer package).
6-10-10 is OK. Tomato food is good.

Exception: western Erythroniums must not be fertilized, but the
European E. dens-canis can be. However, Lester Rowntree, in Hardy
Californians, described how strongly Erythroniums grew and flowered
following one of the summer brushfires so common in California. She
counted up to 25 blossoms on one stem. (presumably this was something
like E. tuolumnense). On Vancouver Island, a good grower gives his
Erythroniums extra potash.

PLANT
many Brodiaea species,if they weren't planted in October.
Fall-blooming small bulbs: Leucojum autumnale and roseum, Scilla autumnalis
Lilies - most lilies are better planted in the fall, but garden
centres do sell them in the spring, and many of the scented slightly
tender ones like the green and black nepalense or the long white
trumpets of Easter lily types like longiflorum and philippinense
should be planted now and will flower in August.

Summer flowering bulbs can be planted from mid-month on. It's a good
idea to stagger the times of planting so you will have flowers over a
longer season. Callas, crocosmia, gladiolus, ranunculus, tigridia.

Northern California (and southern Europe?) - In addition to the
above, canna and dahlias can be planted.

Southern California, low desert through to Texas (and Mediterranean?)
- In addition to the above, Caladium, Canna and Crinum can be planted
when the soil has warmed to 18 C (65 F).