BX478

Erika Schroedersecker via pbs pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
Wed, 17 Nov 2021 14:05:17 PST
Hello,

The BX 478 exchange was a month ago. Could someone please clarify if the items people ordered were mailed out in mid October or now in mid November?

Thank you.

Erika 

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: pbs-request@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> Date: November 17, 2021 at 7:00:03 AM EST
> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 57, Issue 15
> Reply-To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> 
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> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: pbs Digest, Vol 57, Issue 14 (sophie dixon)
>   2. Re: Massonia - flower within flower (Paul Cumbleton)
>   3. Hippeastrum cultural requirements (Gordon Hogenson)
>   4. Re: Hippeastrum cultural requirements (Vlad Hempel)
>   5. Polyxena (Lachenalia) pygmaea (Rimmer de Vries)
>   6. Re: Hippeastrum cultural requirements (Robert Lauf)
>   7. Re: Hippeastrum cultural requirements (Marc Rosenblum)
>   8. BXSX_478 (Luminita Vollmer)
>   9. Re: BXSX_478 (Robert Lauf)
>  10. Re: pbs Digest re: Massonia (Hannon)
>  11. Re: Massonia - flower within flower (Roy Herold)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 13:24:25 +0000
> From: sophie dixon <marozava@hotmail.com>
> To: "pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net"
>    <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] pbs Digest, Vol 57, Issue 14
> Message-ID:
>    <DM8PR07MB8918BDE718F92C37E55382C6D2999@DM8PR07MB8918.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: pbs <pbs-bounces@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> on behalf of pbs-request@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net <pbs-request@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2021 7:00 AM
> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 57, Issue 14
> 
> Send pbs mailing list submissions to
>        pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>        http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>        pbs-request@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>        pbs-owner@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
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> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: Seed sowing question (James Frelichowski)
>   2. Massonia - flower within flower (Rimmer de Vries)
>   3. Re: Massonia - flower within flower (Robert Lauf)
>   4. Re: Massonia - flower within flower (Rimmer de Vries)
>   5. Re: Massonia - flower within flower (Rimmer de Vries)
>   6. Re: Massonia - flower within flower (Kenneth Preteroti)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 13:09:04 +0000 (UTC)
> From: James Frelichowski <butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com>
> To: "pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net"
>        <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Seed sowing question
> Message-ID: <883820994.554469.1636981744724@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> I have experience soaking seeds of a completely unrelated genus, Gossypium. Actually this or the IBS forum came up with the suggestions (smoke water, reference by Deno on seed germination, etc.). This is a hard seeded genus that may also have inhibitors that need to be 'rinsed out' of the seed. So i do soak the troublesome species for two days (held down in sandy media, filled to soil level with pure water), drain for 1-2 weeks depending on soil and temperature, repeat for 1 day, then half a day. There are more seedlings emerging with each cycle. Minor adaptation is to warm up seeds for days to months after removal from a cold storage vault.
> Other inhibitors would be need for stratification, mycorrhizae, and who knows what else. But i believe once seeds are going through phases of germination they need oxygen so the advice against soaking certain species is key, at least so they don't rot.? I hope i added something to this conversation because i have in the past gotten great advice from your discussions.
> James Frelichowski
> Cotton Curator, USDACollege Station, TX
>    On Sunday, November 14, 2021, 07:02:15 PM CST, Jane McGary via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
> 
> I never soak seeds before sowing them unless there is some well-known
> reason to do this with a particular genus. I sow them and then partially
> immerse the flat of pots in water until it soaks up to the surface, then
> keep them in a well-lit, unheated shed (Jan has seen it). I would not
> leave them outdoors because slugs, birds, and rodents would likely bite
> off the emerging seedlings, especially if the seed coat is on the tip of
> the cotyledon to attract the latter two pests.
> 
> Jane McGary, Portland, Oregon, USA
> 
>> On 11/14/2021 12:40 PM, Jan Jeddeloh via pbs wrote:
>> I?m about to sow seed of various hardy and semi-hardy bulbs.? My usual procedure is to soak the seed for a day before sowing then throw the pots outside until they start to germinate in the spring.? Once germination starts I bring them into a cool greenhouse. Works reasonably well.? Today it is over 60F in Portland, Oregon and tomorrow, when we get a gully washer of rain, it will be 50 degrees.? Does anyone see a point in soaking the seed since it appears Mother Nature is going to soak it for me and provide reasonably warm temperatures to boot?
>> 
>> Jan Jeddeloh in balmy Portland, Oregon. Zone 8.
>> _______________________________________________
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 11:30:06 -0600
> From: Rimmer de Vries <rdevries@comcast.net>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: [pbs] Massonia - flower within flower
> Message-ID: <1F994EF3-711A-43C0-8EC1-383D57F6BBF5@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Not seen this before
> 
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> 
> Rimmer
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 21:00:04 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Robert Lauf <boblauf@att.net>
> To: Rimmer de Vries via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Massonia - flower within flower
> Message-ID: <89458761.2016500.1637010004919@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> When the dust settles will you have two bulbs?? Do Massonias normally make offsets from the bottom and not bifurcate at the top like some squills?
> Cool in any case!
> Bob? ?Zone 7? where we just had our first very light freeze.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 15:03:41 -0600
> From: Rimmer de Vries <rdevries@comcast.net>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Massonia - flower within flower
> Message-ID: <0DA2F94D-4215-4CC7-8457-B847C8DABD3E@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> It is like a seed fell in flower a d grew
> 
> Rimmer
> 
>> On Nov 15, 2021, at 3:00 PM, Robert Lauf via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ? When the dust settles will you have two bulbs?  Do Massonias normally make offsets from the bottom and not bifurcate at the top like some squills?
>> Cool in any case!
>> Bob   Zone 7  where we just had our first very light freeze.
>> _______________________________________________
>> pbs mailing list
>> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
>> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
>> Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 15:05:16 -0600
> From: Rimmer de Vries <rdevries@comcast.net>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Massonia - flower within flower
> Message-ID: <23D04AC3-B943-441B-A8E9-ABCCF8411F67@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> They do not make offsets in my experience. Live 10+ yrs or less if they dry up in summer thst is why i add abit clay to mix. Some water lightly in summer, i dont.
> 
> Rimmer
> 
>> On Nov 15, 2021, at 3:00 PM, Robert Lauf via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ? When the dust settles will you have two bulbs?  Do Massonias normally make offsets from the bottom and not bifurcate at the top like some squills?
>> Cool in any case!
>> Bob   Zone 7  where we just had our first very light freeze.
>> _______________________________________________
>> pbs mailing list
>> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
>> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
>> Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 17:49:50 -0500
> From: Kenneth Preteroti <k.preteroti@verizon.net>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Massonia - flower within flower
> Message-ID: <5770128A-3207-44F5-8205-44981DA6C619@verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> Rimmer am I correct that Massonia?s do not have persistent roots therefore summer watering is not necessary.
> 
> Ken P
> 
> ?If liberty means anything at all it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.? George Orwell
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of pbs Digest, Vol 57, Issue 14
> ***********************************
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 16:41:00 +0000
> From: Paul Cumbleton <cumbleton@yahoo.co.uk>
> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Massonia - flower within flower
> Message-ID: <884a43d9-7482-386d-2cbb-25d126ccb758@yahoo.co.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 09:48:17 -0800
> From: Gordon Hogenson <gordonhogenson@gmail.com>
> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> Subject: [pbs] Hippeastrum cultural requirements
> Message-ID:
>    <CACVaO8G0Pads_=xkw5UhXaoxf-hh9kkF2NCumL0Hdp+jnitBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> I grow Lilium species and have no difficulty finding cultural requirements
> for almost all species that I have come across. Not so with Hippeastrum,
> although some great resources exist, such as the Bulb Maven blog and the
> PBS Wiki.
> 
> Well, the Hippeastrum in Bolivia book is inspiring and has prompted me to
> add some new species to my collection. My Hippeastrum growing is mostly
> limited to indoor spaces, but I do have some limited greenhouse-like spaces
> that is usually not heated. I'm in zone 7b in Washington State.
> 
> I've always been interested in pushing the limits of hardiness, but with
> rare and expensive bulbs, I hesitate to do any experiment that would risk
> the loss of the bulb.  However, information available says that, for
> example, H. papilio is hardy down to -7C (from a scientific study).
> 
> The Hippeastrum in Bolivia book includes a table that indicates which
> species are present at the highest altitudes, which would be an indication
> of their hardiness. H. cybister is said to grow at over 3000 m and the list
> of Bolivian species growing at over 2000 m contains 18 species. One can
> look up the climate in La Paz, Bolivia and find that average lows are just
> below freezing, so clearly H. cybister from these areas must be quite hardy.
> 
> It is clear that the genes exist for hardiness in Hippeastrum. Hippeastrum
> hardiness was discussed previously on the list, and many people had success
> growing hybrids outdoors in marginal zones, as long as the bulbs were
> planted near heated buildings. Others tried deep burial and deep mulches to
> protect bulbs in winter.
> 
> I have tried the so-called "hardy amaryllis" that are sometimes available,
> hybrids such as the Rascal series of Sonatini types sold by Breck's and
> others. Names include Red Rascal, Pink Rascal, Balentino, etc.  Also,
> Hippeastrum x johnsonii (St. Joseph's lily) is fairly hardy outdoors in the
> South and has persisted for many decades as a heirloom pass-along plant in
> zone 8 and maybe into zone 7?  I found that most of these bulbs did
> overwinter outdoors for me in my climate. However, performance in the cold
> temperature was not great. Emergence in spring was very late and slow in
> the cold soils. Foliage also suffered in the cold spring rains. The
> emerging foliage also suffered from the depredations of slugs and snails.
> 
> But even so, I did get blooms and was able to collect seeds outdoors from a
> cross involving red hardy amaryllis and Hippeastrum x johnsonii and have
> raised those seeds almost to blooming size, although because of the
> difficulties the plants faced outdoors, I am only growing them in the house
> now.
> 
> However, I think that some of the "hardy amaryllis" Sonatini types are not
> thriving indoors, and actually need more of a cold period to do well.
> Hippeastrum x johnsonii has bloomed indoors for me, but not consistently. I
> suspect it needs the cold period to flower best. My next step is to move
> the "hardy amaryllis" to a mostly unheated greenhouse and see what
> happens.  I suspect that this would also be a good environment for H.
> cybister and other higher-altitude species. The space is not completely
> unheated. I have a thermostatically controlled heat source, an electric
> heater plugged into a "thermo outlet" of the type available in hardware
> stores and designed for heaters to prevent pipes freezing. It comes on only
> around freezing temperatures. I use this space to overwinter Liliums as
> well whose hardiness is in question.  The advantage of this space for
> Hippeastrums like cybister is that they could be kept dry, consistent with
> the dry winter of their Andean home.
> 
> I eventually hope to set up a passive solar greenhouse, another mostly
> unheated structure with lots of thermal mass and insulation. Maybe an ideal
> environment for further experiments with pushing the limits of Hippeastrum
> hardiness. With patience and persistence, it should be possible to breed
> hybrid strains adapted to such conditions.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 19:04:52 +0100
> From: Vlad Hempel <vlad.hempel@gmail.com>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum cultural requirements
> Message-ID:
>    <CALCu09s-nwoAhGXoQmDCuwyuu8cCRniqs5VvSm_VRv56xR_=XQ@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Hello Gordon,
> 
> I am so happy to read this email from you, as it means I am not completly
> crazy, to do such experiments mysef with Hippeastrum.
> 
> I have a very similar experience, however I will say this: most hybrids
> will substain temps hovering over the freezing point, some will survive
> temps even down to -12 C. Of course, in certain conditions.
> 
> In this case, I find the most important is the humidity, especially in
> soil. If one experiments with Hippeadtrum in zone 9a and bellow, best is in
> completly dry soil! This either means in a an unheated greenhouse or to a
> house wall, where it does not rain at all! Snow in this case would be
> beneficial, but with the climate change we all experience recently, the
> permanent snow cover has become a long distant dream.
> 
> So I suggest got for it, try various things, learn. And most
> important,fFollow your intuition!
> 
> Most hardy for me have proven to be H. papilio, H. aulicum, xAcramanii,
> Exotic Star, most Rascals, La Paz, Evergreen and you will laugh, Chico too.
> All survived short temps down to -12 C, here in Berlin. And not just one
> winter. Yes, they were completly dry and not exposed to winds or any rain.
> Most bloomed in 2nd half of May, when it warms up here.
> 
> Good luck,
> Vlad
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue 16. Nov 2021 at 18:48 Gordon Hogenson via pbs <
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
> 
>> I grow Lilium species and have no difficulty finding cultural requirements
>> for almost all species that I have come across. Not so with Hippeastrum,
>> although some great resources exist, such as the Bulb Maven blog and the
>> PBS Wiki.
>> 
>> Well, the Hippeastrum in Bolivia book is inspiring and has prompted me to
>> add some new species to my collection. My Hippeastrum growing is mostly
>> limited to indoor spaces, but I do have some limited greenhouse-like spaces
>> that is usually not heated. I'm in zone 7b in Washington State.
>> 
>> I've always been interested in pushing the limits of hardiness, but with
>> rare and expensive bulbs, I hesitate to do any experiment that would risk
>> the loss of the bulb.  However, information available says that, for
>> example, H. papilio is hardy down to -7C (from a scientific study).
>> 
>> The Hippeastrum in Bolivia book includes a table that indicates which
>> species are present at the highest altitudes, which would be an indication
>> of their hardiness. H. cybister is said to grow at over 3000 m and the list
>> of Bolivian species growing at over 2000 m contains 18 species. One can
>> look up the climate in La Paz, Bolivia and find that average lows are just
>> below freezing, so clearly H. cybister from these areas must be quite
>> hardy.
>> 
>> It is clear that the genes exist for hardiness in Hippeastrum. Hippeastrum
>> hardiness was discussed previously on the list, and many people had success
>> growing hybrids outdoors in marginal zones, as long as the bulbs were
>> planted near heated buildings. Others tried deep burial and deep mulches to
>> protect bulbs in winter.
>> 
>> I have tried the so-called "hardy amaryllis" that are sometimes available,
>> hybrids such as the Rascal series of Sonatini types sold by Breck's and
>> others. Names include Red Rascal, Pink Rascal, Balentino, etc.  Also,
>> Hippeastrum x johnsonii (St. Joseph's lily) is fairly hardy outdoors in the
>> South and has persisted for many decades as a heirloom pass-along plant in
>> zone 8 and maybe into zone 7?  I found that most of these bulbs did
>> overwinter outdoors for me in my climate. However, performance in the cold
>> temperature was not great. Emergence in spring was very late and slow in
>> the cold soils. Foliage also suffered in the cold spring rains. The
>> emerging foliage also suffered from the depredations of slugs and snails.
>> 
>> But even so, I did get blooms and was able to collect seeds outdoors from a
>> cross involving red hardy amaryllis and Hippeastrum x johnsonii and have
>> raised those seeds almost to blooming size, although because of the
>> difficulties the plants faced outdoors, I am only growing them in the house
>> now.
>> 
>> However, I think that some of the "hardy amaryllis" Sonatini types are not
>> thriving indoors, and actually need more of a cold period to do well.
>> Hippeastrum x johnsonii has bloomed indoors for me, but not consistently. I
>> suspect it needs the cold period to flower best. My next step is to move
>> the "hardy amaryllis" to a mostly unheated greenhouse and see what
>> happens.  I suspect that this would also be a good environment for H.
>> cybister and other higher-altitude species. The space is not completely
>> unheated. I have a thermostatically controlled heat source, an electric
>> heater plugged into a "thermo outlet" of the type available in hardware
>> stores and designed for heaters to prevent pipes freezing. It comes on only
>> around freezing temperatures. I use this space to overwinter Liliums as
>> well whose hardiness is in question.  The advantage of this space for
>> Hippeastrums like cybister is that they could be kept dry, consistent with
>> the dry winter of their Andean home.
>> 
>> I eventually hope to set up a passive solar greenhouse, another mostly
>> unheated structure with lots of thermal mass and insulation. Maybe an ideal
>> environment for further experiments with pushing the limits of Hippeastrum
>> hardiness. With patience and persistence, it should be possible to breed
>> hybrid strains adapted to such conditions.
>> _______________________________________________
>> pbs mailing list
>> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
>> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
>> Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
>> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 12:17:04 -0600
> From: Rimmer de Vries <rdevries@comcast.net>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: [pbs] Polyxena (Lachenalia) pygmaea
> Message-ID: <5E218C79-A200-4274-9906-56D2637AD282@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> bulbs from several seed lots selected for uniform size. But i see color variations. 
> 
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> 
> Rimmer
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 18:55:32 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Robert Lauf <boblauf@att.net>
> To: Vlad Hempel via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum cultural requirements
> Message-ID: <334178230.2383938.1637088932702@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> 
> My limited experience here in East Tennessee, Zone 7:
> Some gardeners leave their hybrid Hipps in the ground all winter, but with plenty of mulch, and they tend to survive at least over the short term.
> I have reginae and Johnsonii in the ground year round and they thrive and bloom well.? I've been collecting pollen to use when the fancy ones come into bloom in the greenhouse this winter.
> A cross of ('Salmon Pearl' x self) x reginae is completely hardy in the ground here.? The seedlings that have bloomed range from solid red-orange to red, and many have a white star in the center ranging from small to large.? The idea of bringing in mountain-growing species to improve cold-hardiness is a good one and I wish you success!
> As a side note, the Salmon Pearl seedling grew as a volunteer on the gravel floor of my greenhouse, where it gets shade from the benches, gets daily misting in summer and stays quite warm and wet, then eventually goes dormant briefly when fall/winter comes and I don't routinely water much in there.? It multiplies and blooms extravagantly with zero attention.? A few years back, I dug a bunch of the reginae while dormant to sell/give away, and threw the bulbs into various sized pots.? Many small ones were in 3-4" squares in flats under a bench for the winter.? In late winter or early spring, they spontaneously began to grow and most of them bloomed, conveniently at the same time as that volunteer was blooming.? I might dig some this year in hopes of doing the same and getting fresh pollen when some of the exotic Hipps are blooming.? Last time I checked, seeds from that first cross were still viable after 4-5 years in the fridge.
> Bob
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 14:04:18 -0800
> From: Marc Rosenblum <ivanhoe3@charter.net>
> To: Vlad Hempel via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum cultural requirements
> Message-ID: <25fd8cda-af03-2afc-4cd6-a906f9e001ed@charter.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
> 
>> On 11/16/2021 10:04 AM, Vlad Hempel via pbs wrote:
>> Hello Gordon,
>> 
>> I am so happy to read this email from you, as it means I am not completly
>> crazy, to do such experiments mysef with Hippeastrum.
>> 
>> I have a very similar experience, however I will say this: most hybrids
>> will substain temps hovering over the freezing point, some will survive
>> temps even down to -12 C. Of course, in certain conditions.
>> 
>> In this case, I find the most important is the humidity, especially in
>> soil. If one experiments with Hippeadtrum in zone 9a and bellow, best is in
>> completly dry soil! This either means in a an unheated greenhouse or to a
>> house wall, where it does not rain at all! Snow in this case would be
>> beneficial, but with the climate change we all experience recently, the
>> permanent snow cover has become a long distant dream.
>> 
>> So I suggest got for it, try various things, learn. And most
>> important,fFollow your intuition!
>> 
>> Most hardy for me have proven to be H. papilio, H. aulicum, xAcramanii,
>> Exotic Star, most Rascals, La Paz, Evergreen and you will laugh, Chico too.
>> All survived short temps down to -12 C, here in Berlin. And not just one
>> winter. Yes, they were completly dry and not exposed to winds or any rain.
>> Most bloomed in 2nd half of May, when it warms up here.
>> 
>> Good luck,
>> Vlad
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue 16. Nov 2021 at 18:48 Gordon Hogenson via pbs <
>> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
>> 
>>> I grow Lilium species and have no difficulty finding cultural requirements
>>> for almost all species that I have come across. Not so with Hippeastrum,
>>> although some great resources exist, such as the Bulb Maven blog and the
>>> PBS Wiki.
>>> 
>>> Well, the Hippeastrum in Bolivia book is inspiring and has prompted me to
>>> add some new species to my collection. My Hippeastrum growing is mostly
>>> limited to indoor spaces, but I do have some limited greenhouse-like spaces
>>> that is usually not heated. I'm in zone 7b in Washington State.
>>> 
>>> I've always been interested in pushing the limits of hardiness, but with
>>> rare and expensive bulbs, I hesitate to do any experiment that would risk
>>> the loss of the bulb.  However, information available says that, for
>>> example, H. papilio is hardy down to -7C (from a scientific study).
>>> 
>>> The Hippeastrum in Bolivia book includes a table that indicates which
>>> species are present at the highest altitudes, which would be an indication
>>> of their hardiness. H. cybister is said to grow at over 3000 m and the list
>>> of Bolivian species growing at over 2000 m contains 18 species. One can
>>> look up the climate in La Paz, Bolivia and find that average lows are just
>>> below freezing, so clearly H. cybister from these areas must be quite
>>> hardy.
>>> 
>>> It is clear that the genes exist for hardiness in Hippeastrum. Hippeastrum
>>> hardiness was discussed previously on the list, and many people had success
>>> growing hybrids outdoors in marginal zones, as long as the bulbs were
>>> planted near heated buildings. Others tried deep burial and deep mulches to
>>> protect bulbs in winter.
>>> 
>>> I have tried the so-called "hardy amaryllis" that are sometimes available,
>>> hybrids such as the Rascal series of Sonatini types sold by Breck's and
>>> others. Names include Red Rascal, Pink Rascal, Balentino, etc.  Also,
>>> Hippeastrum x johnsonii (St. Joseph's lily) is fairly hardy outdoors in the
>>> South and has persisted for many decades as a heirloom pass-along plant in
>>> zone 8 and maybe into zone 7?  I found that most of these bulbs did
>>> overwinter outdoors for me in my climate. However, performance in the cold
>>> temperature was not great. Emergence in spring was very late and slow in
>>> the cold soils. Foliage also suffered in the cold spring rains. The
>>> emerging foliage also suffered from the depredations of slugs and snails.
>>> 
>>> But even so, I did get blooms and was able to collect seeds outdoors from a
>>> cross involving red hardy amaryllis and Hippeastrum x johnsonii and have
>>> raised those seeds almost to blooming size, although because of the
>>> difficulties the plants faced outdoors, I am only growing them in the house
>>> now.
>>> 
>>> However, I think that some of the "hardy amaryllis" Sonatini types are not
>>> thriving indoors, and actually need more of a cold period to do well.
>>> Hippeastrum x johnsonii has bloomed indoors for me, but not consistently. I
>>> suspect it needs the cold period to flower best. My next step is to move
>>> the "hardy amaryllis" to a mostly unheated greenhouse and see what
>>> happens.  I suspect that this would also be a good environment for H.
>>> cybister and other higher-altitude species. The space is not completely
>>> unheated. I have a thermostatically controlled heat source, an electric
>>> heater plugged into a "thermo outlet" of the type available in hardware
>>> stores and designed for heaters to prevent pipes freezing. It comes on only
>>> around freezing temperatures. I use this space to overwinter Liliums as
>>> well whose hardiness is in question.  The advantage of this space for
>>> Hippeastrums like cybister is that they could be kept dry, consistent with
>>> the dry winter of their Andean home.
>>> 
>>> I eventually hope to set up a passive solar greenhouse, another mostly
>>> unheated structure with lots of thermal mass and insulation. Maybe an ideal
>>> environment for further experiments with pushing the limits of Hippeastrum
>>> hardiness. With patience and persistence, it should be possible to breed
>>> hybrid strains adapted to such conditions.
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
>>> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
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>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
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>> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
>> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
> 
> Hello Gordon and Vlad
> 
> Here in Falls city, OR [Zone 8b] we get abundant rain and some 
> occasional snow.
> 
> I grow 2 of the species you mentioned with? a piece of clear plastic 
> oriented East to west at a 30degree angle with the high side facing East 
> and open on all sides. My soil is sandy mountain loam with a lot of 
> organic material and some gravel; so I have excellent drainage without 
> losing fertility. I have not seen temperatures below 15F in the 18 years 
> I have been here.
> 
> Happy growing,
> 
> Marc
> 
> 
>> Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 18:48:13 -0600
> From: Luminita Vollmer <pbslv.xchange@gmail.com>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Cc: luminita.vollmer@gmail.com
> Subject: [pbs] BXSX_478
> Message-ID:
>    <CALXf-BLdS1N9vGxwHGjJ4QZNkMVA6-DYmKtcGKWv28CcABOZtw@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Dear all
> Exchange BX/SX_478 has ended, all orders have been filled as best as
> possible and sent out. There will not be another exchange until next year.
> I hope you have a nice holiday and all the best in the new year to come.
> Luminita Vollmer
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 01:27:03 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Robert Lauf <boblauf@att.net>
> To: Luminita Vollmer via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] BXSX_478
> Message-ID: <1372838470.2533094.1637112423260@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> Thanks for all your hard work.? It's hard for everyone else to really comprehend the time and effort this thing takes, as well as the thought that goes into distributing things as fairly as possible.? A lot of energy and stress for a job that pays nothing.
> Bob? ?Zone 7
>    On Tuesday, November 16, 2021, 07:48:35 PM EST, Luminita Vollmer via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:  
> 
> Dear all
> Exchange BX/SX_478 has ended, all orders have been filled as best as
> possible and sent out. There will not be another exchange until next year.
> I hope you have a nice holiday and all the best in the new year to come.
> Luminita Vollmer
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
> Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 19:39:22 -0800
> From: Hannon <othonna@gmail.com>
> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> Subject: Re: [pbs] pbs Digest re: Massonia
> Message-ID:
>    <CAFsz2W_dAJeNA2w9GOdGVPJ3TS5Jb4Y8Nfoi2wbJVXQhqxEcMQ@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Rimmer's plant is a fluke (or a fluke event for that plant), like a
> Massonia with three leaves, the third innermost and smaller.
> 
> Massonias do not offset in my experience. A 30 year old bulb of M. depressa
> split to make two shoots, but it is still one bulb at this point.
> 
> To Mr. Preteroti's question, yes, massonias do have perennial roots but
> this does not mean they require watering during dormancy. Even in our hot
> summers they are OK dry or with only 1-2 light waterings in June-Sept.
> 
> Dylan
> 
> *"The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an
> useful plant to its culture?" --**Thomas Jefferson*
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 23:21:27 -0500
> From: Roy Herold <rrherold@gmail.com>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Cc: Paul Cumbleton <cumbleton@yahoo.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Massonia - flower within flower
> Message-ID: <30fad2f4-47b2-ba7c-3e25-458251854b69@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Paul,
> 
> I went back and looked at my photos of M bakeriana (unnamed at the time) 
> taken at Modderfontein in 2011, and a couple of them have extra leaves 
> coming out of the crown or from the side. Not as many as the ones in 
> your pictures, but then again, they were growing from rather narrow 
> cracks in the rocks.
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/WnnWaSNFxXNyu236A/
> 
> Are your plants from this location or a different site? My plants of M 
> bakeriana are long gone, distributed to better growers than myself.
> 
> --Roy
> 
> 
>> On 11/16/2021 11:41 AM, Paul Cumbleton via pbs wrote:
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>> URL: <http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/pipermail/pbs/…>
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>> _______________________________________________
>> pbs mailing list
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>> Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
> Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of pbs Digest, Vol 57, Issue 15
> ***********************************
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