Lovely, I had a 12 X 8 Santa Barbara green house in Santa Clara Ca. I found my shade area 6 X 15 was better for growing because of the ventilation. Totally agree, windows are the key. Additionally clear glass as I must be able to see outside while in the green house. Thank you for tips, Lorena now in PNW Oregon. > On Jan 8, 2021, at 8:53 AM, Pamela Harlow via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote: > > This has been a fascinating thread. Perhaps the biggest lesson is to > understand the climate and site particulars where the greenhouse will be > used, as well as the requirements of the desired plants. Regional > greenhouse users and suppliers can help with this. > > A practical means of mouse-proofing the floor is via heavy landscape > fabric. I used treated lumber for the foundation. This enabled me to > staple the fabric to the wood all around the periphery, carefully smoothing > ripples and folds. It can be done. I hand-sewed the overlapping floor > strips together. The only problem with a fabric floor is that silt can > eventually plug the fabric weave, slowing drainage. Heavy treatment with a > shop vac when the floor is dry will help. > > I concur that no greenhouse is large enough! However, careful bench design > can maximize plant space, especially if the greenhouse has some width to > work with. But, that would be another thread! > > Pamela > >> On Fri, Jan 8, 2021 at 8:17 AM Johannes-Ulrich Urban via pbs < >> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote: >> >> Hello Luminita, >> >> There are so many excellent comments on greenhouses, here is my personal >> experience. >> >> I am on my fourth greenhouse here in Portugal and I would recommend the >> following: as much ventilation as possible. Many comments have stated that, >> it cannot be overdone. I noticed that some of the models in the attached >> catalogue do not have enough windows or louvres. Do order as many extra >> ones as possible! I prefer widows because louvres are not closing tight >> enough when it comes to heating, otherwise they are fine as you can direct >> the air flow. I use non electric automatic openers, very reliable. >> Shading: try to get a structure for (removable) shade cloth on top of the >> structure which bears the glass. If there is a space between shade cloth >> and glass which allows air to circulate, shading will be more efficient >> than with shade cloth lying directly on the glass. This is my problem right >> now. This space has to be big enough to allow the windows in the roof to >> open fully. At the same time such an extra structure is a perfect >> protection against hail damage. >> If the shading is removable in winter you gain a lot of light and warmth. >> The door: try to choose a model which is tall enough so that the door can >> be put anywhere. This gives you a lot of flexibility. Make sure the door is >> wide if you need to move large plants, bulky material or a wheelbarrow. >> Mice: make it mouse proof from the beginning. Stand the frame on a floor >> of slabs or make a concrete or wall foundation deep enough to stop mice >> from digging underneath. >> Choice of glass: take greatest care which material you choose. Classic >> single pane glass, double glass (very good insulation but EXTREMELY heavy >> to manipulate) acrylic glass or polycarbonate glass and also horticultural >> films. All these materials have their own advantage and disadvantage and, >> very important, all have different properties when it comes to light >> transmission. I lost an entire winter growing Oxalis collection when it was >> moved from a greenhouse with acrylic glass in the roof to another one which >> had triple glass required by the local building authorities. The triple >> glass in the roof absorbed so much of the light spectrum (unnoticed by the >> human eye) that the Oxalis dwindled away within two or three years. There >> are high tech professional horticultural films with almost 100 percent >> light and spectrum transmission. It all depends on what you want to grow >> and at which season you want to use your greenhouse. >> >> And last but not least...... I can only confirm that a greenhouse should >> be as big as ever possible...... not only for space reasons but also >> because it becomes the easier to manage temperature wise the bigger it is. >> It will be the place in your garden where you will spend most of your >> time.... >> >> I am also more than happy to answer more questions. >> >> Happy planning! >> >> Uli >> >> Please find attached a picture of my current greenhouse. Note that the >> walls are high enough so that the door could be anywhere. And note that the >> shade cloth is directly on the glass which is a compromise. The walls will >> be painted with white reflecting paint in summer. And yes, there are not >> enough windows..... 5 in the roof and 4 in the walls. >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: image0.jpeg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 137849 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: < >> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/pipermail/pbs/… >>> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net >> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… >> Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net > http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… > Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
