Standard procedure for such CORMS would be to plant deeply to discourage splitting, to feed well and to encourage a long growing season to produce large corms and strong flowering shoots... Growing freely in ground with a dry surface and a free root run might simulate this cultivation hypothesis. I grew some Ferraria from seeds about 12 years ago. My climate is too cold for them in winter and I only managed to keep them alive by keeping them too dry to grow well, until the recent cold winter when I lost them all, so I can not claim to be good with the genus though I have a little winter heat in one green-house now and a corm received from a BX is in bud now. With both Ferraria and Moraea the corms have missed a growing season for me some years, I think it might be a matter of being too dry in Autumn ?. Peter (UK) On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 9:50 PM, John Wickham <jwickham@sbcglobal.net>wrote: > Good to hear its not just me. I've got a couple of Ferraria that haven't > even produced foliage...but the bulbs appear to remain viable. Is this a > temperature thing? I'm in southern California. > > > So do I. I have struggled with Ferraria for over 15 years. No not > struggled, but given up. Ferraria crispa? I planted in a long pot 15 yrs > ago. It bloomed once but never again. However it proceeded to produced a > pot full of bulb discs. I put some in a smaller pot and nothing. I put some > in a raised bed and it bloomed once and never again. I give up. Bob in > No. Calif. >