I finally had time to read all the suggestions about summer bulb storage. This list is such a good source of information based on experience, not just repeating what is written in books. I would like to comment that there seem to be some bulbs that need a period of warm temperatures in the summer to bloom well. This may be where the idea of baking came from as Jane points out. Living in northern coastal California I can't always provide those temperatures. And not only are daytime temperatures moderate, but night time temperatures in summer are often very cool. People where I live don't have air conditioning, but they may build a fire in summer in their wood stoves or turn on the heat on chilly nights or early mornings. My greenhouse does get warmer at least during the day as does upstairs in my house. So I store some things in those places for the summer. I've been having much much more success with Nerine sarniensis hybrids since they got relocated to the greenhouse year round with occasional water in summer. I have great luck with summer rainfall Haemanthus and some Cyrtanthus species that live in the greenhouse, but poor results with a lot of winter rainfall South African amaryllids that are not in the greenhouse and I'm wondering if it is just too cool for them in summer. But I only have so much room so I have to make decisions about who gets to be in the greenhouse. Maybe Ferrarias would come up and bloom with more heat. I always unpot my Leucocoryne and store them in paper bags upstairs as they don't bloom if moved to the shade and kept in pots. It's just not warm enough. And for years there were a number of the beautiful Ornithogalum dubium hybrids that I stored dry upstairs and didn't plant again until I saw signs of growth as frequently they didn't come up otherwise. I'm sure some of those people would say don't leave pots out of soil would be horrified, but leaving them in soil didn't work for me. And I always unpot my Tulipa bulbs (when large enough) and store them in paper bags as well and repot them in December after prechilling them for four to six weeks first. Many of the Tulipa varieties I have grown have been coming back well for 25 years treated this way. And I unpot my Oxalis bulbs and store them in brown bags and send the excess to the BX. I try to get them repotted by August, but if I run out of time I just pot the ones that are already growing first and it doesn't seem to matter. Then when I do pot them up I can water them right away and not have to struggle with the water running around the sides of the pots in the too dry potting material leaving the pots still dry. (Someone on this list suggested watering from below and I do that on occasion, but I have too many pots and sometimes it takes days for them to absorb the moisture so this isn't really a practical solution.) In spite of these comments, I agree with others as most of the things I have growing in pots get moved to the shade for the summer and since I live in a climate like Gastil's we don't usually have rain and even if we did, it takes a long time for the soil to get moistened once has dried out and since it is rarely hot for more than a short period, I'm not dealing with hot humid weather that is very hard on summer dormant bulbs. The birds are as big a problem for me as rodents so I do sometimes try to cover the pots with wire which hasn't been totally successful. So I'd echo Arnold. And say the answer probably is that it depends on your climate and what you are growing. Fortunately since I'm now on the other side of growing more, if something doesn't make it in my conditions it just solves the dilemma of what to eliminate. I have a few candidates for the BX if I can find the time to unpot them. Mary Sue