Temperate continental climate bulbs basically root following rain and/ or fluctuating temperatures before winter, they may then slow down, while frozen, untill thawing/ snowmelt/ spring time. They then go dormant for a (hot) dry period in summer which stimulates the setting of flowerbuds within the bulb. The cycle is started again by fluctuating / cooler night temperatures and water before winter. If they dont get enough cold in winter, the embryonic flowerbuds will not have time to develop before spring, and I would expect lots of leaf instead and aborted flowers. Alpine houses are often kept frost free in the uk, and this is fine for these bulbs. The winter cold dormancy after rooting and before top growth is enforced by giving only a very little water untill top growth is required. I expect that the biggest problems you might encounter in a hotter climate is that when the bulbs get warm they must be allowed to go dormant (and dry) or they will rot. This may be before they have finished a full seasons growth resulting in poor bulbs for the following year. I think keeping them cool to achieve a long spring growth period and breaking dormancy early by refridgerating the bulbs before potting might give a longer growing period. On Sat, Aug 13, 2011 at 1:33 AM, Ina Crossley <klazina1@gmail.com> wrote: > This year I have had Hyacinths flowering in the garden from shop bought > flowers which were planted in the garden when they finished over the > last few years. Like tulips, we are not supposed to be able to grown > Hyacinths, as it is too wet at the wrong time and not cold enough. > > > Ina Auckland New Zealand where it feels spring like today, yet a > warning of a real snow storm coming, which won't reach Auckland, but > will lower the temperature considerably > > On 13/08/2011 11:54 a.m., AW wrote: > > I thought it had to do with insufficient cold hours to enforce a dormancy > > time in winter. Depending on wintertime conditions that could amount to > the > > conditions you indicate. If it is a dry winter, as it usually is until > early > > January, the bulbs might be OK if temperatures remained cool enough that > no > > growth is stimulated ( that may be a stretc).They would then respond to > > January/February rains when it is relatively cool. If, however, rains > came > > two months earlier when dayime temperatures are still quite high, that > could > > spring disaster (no pun inteded). > > > > If your theory is correct the bulbs could be grown successfully under > cover, > > keeping them dry until, say February. With bulbs like these Ixiolirions > that > > treatment could be tried although I had not envisioned growing them along > > those lines. >