Xerophylum tenax

Iain Brodie of Falsyde auchgourishgardens@falsyde.sol.co.uk
Thu, 26 Jun 2008 02:09:30 PDT
Thank you Jane, a very helpful reply if just a little depressing over time 
lines 'till flowering.

Oh well, ho hum, two thirds still to go 'till then. At least the climate 
here will suit it even if I am rather greyer by then,               if 
that's possible but definetly wobblier and wrinklier.

Iain


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org>
To: <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 1:37 AM
Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 65, Issue 29


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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: Bulb requirements - was Ixiolirion (Jane McGary)
>   2. bulbs and their requirements. (Adam Fikso)
>   3. Re: Lime in pottimg mix - was Bulb requirements - was
>      Ixiolirion (Mark Mazer)
>   4. Re: Ixiolirion & Xerophyllum tenax (Iain Brodie of Falsyde)
>   5. Re: Ixiolirion & Xerophyllum tenax (Jane McGary)
>   6. Re: Ixiolirion & lime (James Waddick)
>   7. Lilium michiganense - variants (James Waddick)
>   8. Trillium undulatum: NOT! (totototo@telus.net)
>   9. Re: bulbs and their requirements. (Lee Poulsen)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 11:28:42 -0700
> From: Jane McGary <janemcgary@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Bulb requirements - was Ixiolirion
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20080626111756.0173e4b0@pop.earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> Several interesting topics have come up here. First, good to hear from 
> Yuri
> Pirogov near Moscow, who observes that his collected Ixiolirion have done
> better in his severe-winter climate than have Dutch imports of the same
> species. This should encourage us to try to obtain wild-collected seed of
> I. tataricum (I think there is at least one other species?) and try 
> raising
> it ourselves.
>
> Second, Jim McKenney wrote that he believes his native soil, acid clay, is
> not good for many bulbs. In fact being lodged in damp clay in summer might
> be bad for them, but I don't think acidity itself would be a problem for
> most species. I grow hundreds of bulbous species that come from areas with
> alkaline soil, and I grow them in a slightly acidic but very well drained
> medium. I've rarely bothered to add lime to my growing mix. A very good
> gardener once told me that he thought almost no plant requires lime as 
> long
> as it is provided with enough fertilizer, although, on the other hand, 
> some
> plants (including many ericaceous ones) don't grow well in an alkaline
> soil. There is widespread thought that plants endemic to ultramafic
> (serpentine) soils do not require serpentine, either, and certainly I grow
> a number of serpentine endemics without making any adjustment to the soil;
> the theory is that these plants tolerate, but do not require, an 
> ultramafic
> substrate, and benefit from the lack of competition where plants that 
> can't
> tolerate it are excluded.
>
> Moreover, when you visit limestone ranges, especially in the far North,
> you'll see many ericaceous plants and other "lime-haters" growing in
> organic deposits over the limestone.
>
> Older books on growing alpines, especially, offer numerous recipes for
> potting mixes, with elaborate lists of the particular plants to be grown 
> in
> each, but not many of us follow these rules nowadays. I do have a peat bed
> in the rock garden, but it's primarily for moisture retention in summer,
> and in it several terrestrial orchids usually seen in limestone areas are
> flourisihing.
>
> Jane McGary
> Northwestern Oregon, USA
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:39:40 -0500
> From: "Adam Fikso" <adam14113@ameritech.net>
> Subject: [pbs] bulbs and their requirements.
> To: <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <000b01c8d6f2$34fb4010$eae38f47@FAMILY>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252";
> reply-type=original
>
> I find that it's always worthwhile finding out where the bulbs originate.
> If it's appropriately named  like Ixiolirion tataricum, the species 
> epithet
> by itself is a clue.  It's a Tatar, a steppe bulb, in all likelihood. 
> Yeah,
> dry summers, and minimal rains, and lousy soil, and good drainage and 
> maybe
> cold winters--really cold, and lots of limestone in the soil, and sharp
> drainage, (either that and a sloping clay or terra rossa base where the
> water drains off before it soaks in very much..)
>
> Of course this doesn't work for Scilla peruviana!--but we've been over 
> that
> more than once.
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 14:30:25 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
> From: Mark Mazer <markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Lime in pottimg mix - was Bulb requirements - was
> Ixiolirion
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID:
> <26185178.1214422225321.JavaMail.root@elwamui-chisos.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
>>I grow hundreds of bulbous species that come from areas with
>>alkaline soil, and I grow them in a slightly acidic but very well drained
>>medium. I've rarely bothered to add lime to my growing mix.
>
> I am now adding small amounts of lime to all potting mixes.  I think that 
> the warmer and higher humidity of North Carolina makes this necessary in 
> contrast to the cooler and dryer growing conditions previously encountered 
> in Connecticut. From temperate to tropical, add more lime to the mix.
>
> Mark Mazer
> Hertford, North Carolina
> USDA Zone 7b-8
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:12:15 +0100
> From: "Iain Brodie of Falsyde" <auchgourishgardens@falsyde.sol.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Ixiolirion & Xerophyllum tenax
> To: <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <024101c8d6ff$c386e020$0401a8c0@homepc>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> IXIOLIRION.  I don't how much, if at all, the following will be of help or
> interest but we grow Ixiolirion here and have doen so on the same piece of
> ground for nine years. There simply is not the labour to go around a ten
> acres botanic garden to allow or consider moving or lifting bulbs etc on 
> an
> annual basis. They either  get on with it themsleves, or not. it isn't
> possible to moly coddle anything here. Essentially I suspect the over 
> riding
> significance attached to their survival and natural expansion, [slowly] is
> the fact that [a] the grow on a soil which to all intents and purposes is
> pure sand and gravel, as is the case all over the site, and [b] the 
> precise
> location has an approxiamte slope of 45 degrees. Therefore good drainage 
> is
> an absolute given and may well be the most important element in their
> survival.
>
> That said we also get around 75 inches, in old money, of rain which is
> spread more or else evenly over the whole year, either as snow or the wet
> stuff. If the soil is porous to say 30-45 cms / 12-18 inches on top of
> glaciated granite gravel and rock as well as the added benefit of some 
> sort
> of slope then I see no reason why this species should not grow unless the
> summer temperatures are aggressively high but by then they are more or 
> less
> dormant. We are lucky to see much above 20C at any time and the crude
> equivalent to the USDA's hardiness zone @ c. 58 degrees north here would 
> be
> roughly 6 'ish.   I hope this helps, & I would sugggest the person who
> thought he might be over watering during summer & autumn is on the button
> there.
>
> On a different topic, could I ask for some advice on a plant I have here
> grown from seed donated from your neck of the woods, namely Xerophyllum
> tenax.  We now have some 35 plus plants three years old from seed but this
> is not a species anyone in Scotland, or it seems in England knows anything
> about in terms of its cultivation requirments. The plants are now roughly
> around 15 cms / 6 inches tall. The basic pH is 4.5 to perhaps 5.0 max, the
> soil is as described above, ditto climate. What do I do next please? It
> seems hardy having already dealt with - 18 C so far including doing so in 
> 9
> cm square pots since pricked out as seedlings.
>
> Iain
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org>
> To: <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 6:21 PM
> Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 65, Issue 28
>
>
>> Send pbs mailing list submissions to
>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
>>
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>> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>>   1. Re: Ixiolirion (Jim McKenney)
>>   2. Re: Ixiolirion (Yuri Pirogov)
>>   3. Re: Bulb requirements - was Ixiolirion (Diane Whitehead)
>>   4. Hippeastrum parodii (Douglas Westfall)
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:17:50 -0400
>> From: "Jim McKenney" <jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com>
>> Subject: Re: [pbs] Ixiolirion
>> To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> Message-ID: <000601c8d6df$080e11d0$2f01a8c0@Library>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
>>
>> It?s always intriguing to me to hear other gardeners explain their
>> successes
>> and failures. Most of us have one or two major circumstances which 
>> greatly
>> influence the bulbs we grow. For me, that major circumstance is too much
>> water during the period when summer dormant bulbs are ripening. When I 
>> was
>> a
>> young gardener, I thought the major circumstance was winter hardiness. 
>> One
>> other circumstance for me is acid clay soil: it?s obvious that many bulbs
>> originate in areas with porous, high calcium soils, usually neutral or
>> alkaline.
>>
>>
>>
>> As a result, when I try to explain my successes and failures, my
>> explanations are apt to be in terms of those three main issues: excess
>> moisture when the bulbs are ripening, winter hardiness and soil.
>>
>>
>>
>> For me, one of the real eye-openers which came with participation in this
>> forum is a new sense of the adaptability of most bulbs: many of the bulbs
>> I
>> grow can withstand conditions never realized in my garden.
>>
>>
>>
>> One thing this has taught me is this: take with a generous grain of salt
>> reports based on experience in climates different than my own. And with
>> that
>> in mind, I try to preface any suggestions I might make with a caveat 
>> about
>> ?under my conditions? or something similar. For instance, Mary Sue has
>> Brodiaea, Triteleia, Dichelostemma and the like probably coming up in her
>> grass (do you have any grass, Mary Sue?). Yet she has problems with
>> Ixiolirion. I on the other hand am just able to squeek by with many of 
>> the
>> Californian plants, and for me they seem to respond best to the sort of
>> conditions I suspect Ixiolirion needs in my climate. It should surprise 
>> no
>> one that what works for me does not work for Mary Sue and visa versa:
>> after
>> all, we?re in different worlds in terms of growing conditions. I 
>> mentioned
>> the uncertainty of Allium caeruleum in the garden in my climate, yet for
>> Jane McGary it?s a reliable garden plant. I have to jump through hoops to
>> keep it going (hoops in this case being protection from summer rain).
>>
>>
>>
>> Reflecting on reports from other parts of the country often leads me to
>> speculation about the requirements of various plants. In particular, 
>> there
>> are circumstances each of us has, circumstances which influence our
>> successes and failures, yet circumstances we might not even realize. Soil
>> temperature is one I?m trying to focus on more and more now. Some plants
>> require high soil temperatures during dormancy: these are the ones which
>> are
>> apt to be poor performers in cool summer areas. Others have certain chill
>> requirements. It?s interesting to me that horticulture and agriculture in
>> general seem to have recognized the importance of temperature during
>> winter
>> dormancy long before the significance of temperature during summer
>> dormancy
>> was recognized.
>>
>>
>>
>> Another neglected factor is day length. Martagon lilies are evidently
>> adapted to very long days during their period of above-ground growth. The
>> gross observation is that they flourish better far north of Maryland. 
>> From
>> that, most observers have concluded that they are cold adapted. But
>> perhaps
>> the explanation for their halting growth here in Maryland has to do with
>> our
>> comparatively short late-spring, early-summer days (compared, for
>> instance,
>> to the day length in Sweden or comparable latitudes in Canada where
>> martagon
>> lilies thrive).  The day length here begins to shorten after the spring
>> solstice; but if you go far enough north, days longer than any we ever
>> experience characterize the summers.
>>
>>
>>
>> Another thing I?m beginning to wonder about is this: will summer dormant
>> bulbs which have ripened properly and experienced the proper desiccation
>> withstand soil moisture in the period between proper ripening and
>> initiation
>> of autumnal root growth? Bulbs when dug here are seeming heavy with
>> moisture. During the first week or two of storage, it?s important for the
>> storage conditions to allow free evaporation of moisture. Fat juicy 
>> summer
>> dormant bulbs taken from the ground and put directly into zip lock bags
>> are
>> apt to turn into a stinking mushy soup before you know it. But once 
>> stored
>> under airy conditions and properly ripened, are they more tolerant of
>> moist
>> warm conditions? That?s something I mean to find out. And has anyone
>> noticed
>> that the largest bulbs of tulips are the ones most likely to rot?
>>
>>
>>
>> I?ve wandered far from the Ixiolirion issue, and have not mentioned one 
>> of
>> the cardinal rules I try to observe when puzzling out why things die: 
>> make
>> a
>> point of determining exactly when the plant in question died. If we plant
>> a
>> bulb in the autumn, see it bloom in the spring, and then don?t think 
>> about
>> it until it does not reappear the following year, that leaves a lot of
>> time
>> and changing circumstances unaccounted for.
>>
>>
>>
>> The hypothesis I?m proposing is that Ixiolirion is dying in  June: it
>> would
>> not surprise me to find that the bulbs are rotting as the plants bloom. I
>> dug some from my garden (in the garden, not in a raised or protected bed)
>> a
>> few weeks ago and found some rotters (and some sound bulbs). Next year
>> they
>> are going into a raised bed under cover. And I think Mary Sue is on to
>> something with her speculation about a need for winter cold. Some bulbs
>> stored dry and  cool during the winter here grew when planted in the
>> spring
>> but gave a very poor harvest.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim McKenney
>>
>> jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com
>>
>> Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.03871? North, 77.09829? West, USDA
>> zone
>> 7
>>
>> My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com/
>>
>> BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS
>>
>> Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org/
>>
>>
>>
>> Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 20:34:45 +0400
>> From: "Yuri Pirogov" <jukp@aha.ru>
>> Subject: Re: [pbs] Ixiolirion
>> To: "Pacific Bulb Society" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> Message-ID: <004e01c8d6e1$61b1d850$0401a8c0@LocalHost>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>> reply-type=original
>>
>> Dutch grown Ixiolirion have bad reputation here too. So I did not expect
>> too
>> much when I collected them among other things in Central Asia two years
>> ago.
>> Nevertheless, it is still alive after two winters and it gave me good
>> blooms
>> this spring. Interesting, two clones have very different bloom time. 
>> First
>> one bloomed in late May, second one bloomed after mid June when first one
>> has almost ripe seeds. I must say, the past summer was very hot and dry.
>> I'm not sure it needs good drainage because it is very widespread in the
>> nature and is really a weed on the plains and fields.
>>
>> Yuri Pirogov
>> near Moscow, Russia
>> zone 3 or 4
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 09:59:44 -0700
>> From: Diane Whitehead <voltaire@islandnet.com>
>> Subject: Re: [pbs] Bulb requirements - was Ixiolirion
>> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> Message-ID: <DF49C614-CEB3-45C9-996E-51B561F0EC09@islandnet.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=WINDOWS-1252; format=flowed;
>> delsp=yes
>>
>> Jim McKenney's message of June 25 is a wide-ranging discussion of bulb
>> requirements in different areas.
>>
>> I think it may be missed by anyone skipping the Ixiolirion messages,
>> so I would like to draw attention to it.
>> I have included just a few snippets, but the whole message is well
>> worth reading.
>>
>> Diane Whitehead
>>
>>
>> On 25-Jun-08, at 9:17 AM, Jim McKenney wrote:
>>
>>> It?s always intriguing to me to hear other gardeners explain their
>>> successes
>>> and failures. Most of us have one or two major circumstances which
>>> greatly
>>> influence the bulbs we grow.
>>>
>> ..........
>>>
>>> One thing this has taught me is this: take with a generous grain of
>>> salt
>>> reports based on experience in climates different than my own.
>> ........
>>>
>>> ... each of us has circumstances which influence our
>>> successes and failures, yet circumstances we might not even realize.
>>> Soil
>>> temperature is one .........
>>>
>>> Another neglected factor is day length. .......
>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 10:01:33 -0700
>> From: Douglas Westfall <eagle85@flash.net>
>> Subject: [pbs] Hippeastrum parodii
>> To: IBSMEMBERS@yahoogroups.com, Pacific Bulb Society
>> <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> Message-ID: <BF554C79-85B4-4CA4-B857-B1CF10BAF1A1@flash.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>>
>> Question to Hippeastrum "specialists" (at least any who grow
>> Hippeastrum parodii).
>>
>> At this point in the season, all of my Hippeastrums have finished
>> blooming (except Hippeastrum parodii).
>>
>> Now I know that H. aulicum blooms in late Winter/early Spring, but is
>> it "normal" for Hippeastrum parodii to be sending up a flower spike
>> here in late June? I have never had it bloom before.
>>
>> Doug
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> pbs mailing list
>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
>> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
>>
>>
>> End of pbs Digest, Vol 65, Issue 28
>> ***********************************
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 16:23:02 -0700
> From: Jane McGary <janemcgary@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Ixiolirion & Xerophyllum tenax
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20080626161737.0173d4b0@pop.earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> Iain asked about Xerophyllum tenax, commonly known as "beargrass." Though
> not a bulbous plant and not a geophyte, it is often discussed along with
> the bulbous monocots.
>
> This plant is widespread in the American West, usually growing above the
> winter snow line in conifer woodland and clearings. It tolerates some 
> shade
> but flowers best after the tree cover is removed by fire, logging, or
> windstorms. It is very slow-growing from seed and might take as long as 12
> years to flower. It grows in rocky soils of mostly volcanic origin where
> there is very good drainage. It is usually wet in fall, snow-covered in
> winter, wet in spring, and very dry in summer. It is rarely seen in
> gardens, even in my area where it is indigenous at higher elevations.
>
> Some populations of Xerophyllum are threatened by the collection of the
> foliage for the florist industry, for which it is shipped worldwide.
>
> Jane McGary
> Northwestern Oregon, USA
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 18:29:30 -0500
> From: James Waddick <jwaddick@kc.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Ixiolirion & lime
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <p062408b7c48883c413e1@[192.168.1.101]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
> Dear all,
> I find all the pros and cons of bulb needs very interesting,
> but like Adam give high credence to provenance or where the bulb
> originated. Ixiolirion is a plant of Central Asian steppes and would
> seem tailor made for my growing conditions in the Central American
> Steppes (U.S. Prairie) . Cold winter, low to moderate rainfall, high
> temps in summer. limestone soils etc etc.
> Perhaps the bulbs genetic transposition through Dutch care
> has made them less agreeable to quasi-native treatments.
>
> And perhaps my best bet would be grow them from seed
> collected in the wild from a habitat more similar to mine than the
> Dutch bulb fields.
>
> And this relates to the subject of lime. I know, I know, I
> know that  prepared soil and soilless mixes are pH adjusted to be
> neutral (ph 7.0) or nearly so, but (I think) I see better growth when
> I add a seasoning of pulverized lime/ limestone to each pot and some
> get a larger helping like peonies and hellebores.
>
> Call me crazy to add lime where the water pH is almost 11
> (yes, true), but it does seem to help.
>
> Best Jim W.
> -- 
> Dr. James W. Waddick
> 8871 NW Brostrom Rd.
> Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711
> USA
> Ph.    816-746-1949
> Zone 5 Record low -23F
> Summer 100F +
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 18:49:16 -0500
> From: James Waddick <jwaddick@kc.rr.com>
> Subject: [pbs] Lilium michiganense - variants
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <p062408b9c4888560748f@[192.168.1.101]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
> Dear Friends and esp. Iain,
> Within the next two days I expect to have 50 plus stems of
> Lilium michiganense in bloom. Most stems are 3 ft tall with a single
> bloom, but a few are up to 5 ft tall with up to 5 flowers per stem.
> The run around my half-shade garden and are an architectural delight
> even out of bloom- The whorls of foliage seem impossibly elegant at
> times. The brilliant orange turks-cap flowers add a jewel-like touch
> to the picture.
>
> So the literature says there are populations that have bright
> yellow flowers, and others closer to red flowers, A friend from the
> American Lily Society has verified that tetraploids exist and so do
> other color combinations (green throat, spotted etc.)
>
> Since this is so 'happy' in my garden, I'm ready to plant
> other color forms near by. Can anyone suggest a source for any of
> these? At least the red or yellow forms? Do they come true from seed?
> and is there a seed source anywhere?
>
> Ready to expand!
>
> Thanks Jim W.
> -- 
> Dr. James W. Waddick
> 8871 NW Brostrom Rd.
> Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711
> USA
> Ph.    816-746-1949
> Zone 5 Record low -23F
> Summer 100F +
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 17:17:35 -0700
> From: totototo@telus.net
> Subject: [pbs] Trillium undulatum: NOT!
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <20080626001710.6236URNT1X@priv-edtnaa06.telusplanet.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> Among the bagged bulbs on rack this spring were packages labelled 
> "Trillium
> undulatum." No such luck! They key out as T. recurvatum, using the key in 
> the
> Cases' book. T. recurvatum is a fairly ugly trillium, as it happens.
>
> Another example of the folly of believing the label on the package.
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Rodger Whitlock
> Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
> Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate
>
> on beautiful Vancouver Island
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 17:36:35 -0700
> From: Lee Poulsen <wpoulsen@pacbell.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] bulbs and their requirements.
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <4862E493.1000503@pacbell.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>
>
> James Waddick wrote:
>> Dear all,
>> I find all the pros and cons of bulb needs very interesting,
>> but like Adam give high credence to provenance or where the bulb
>> originated. Ixiolirion is a plant of Central Asian steppes and would
>> seem tailor made for my growing conditions in the Central American
>> Steppes (U.S. Prairie) . Cold winter, low to moderate rainfall, high
>> temps in summer. limestone soils etc etc.
>> Perhaps the bulbs genetic transposition through Dutch care
>> has made them less agreeable to quasi-native treatments.
>>
>>
> Harold Koopowitz once told me very nearly this same thing about some of
> the bulb types that have gone through centuries, even, of Dutch
> treatment and selection to what they are today. I dimly recall that he
> was referring to tulips and hyacinths especially, since hyacinths
> originally were mediterranean climate plants, but most of the Dutch
> cultivars don't do well at all in our area (Southern California). And
> that had the Dutch not chosen results of all their tulip breeding that
> only did well in their climate over the centuries, but instead tried
> crossing and growing out all sorts of hybrids regardless of their
> adaptability to the Dutch climate, we might today have some spectacular
> tulip cultivars that would grow well and naturalize here in California
> rather than needing to be grown like annuals and be pre-chilled in the
> refrigerator, etc.
>
> --Lee Poulsen
> Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a
>
>
>
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> End of pbs Digest, Vol 65, Issue 29
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