Alberto said: "it is also true that a hygiene program and the continuing production of plants from seed minimizes virus incidence to very low rates." I couldn't agree more. There are two main skills in growing good plants - being very observant and learning how to water. Manage these and the rest is simple! I strive to keep everything well organized and clean and also use insecticides prophylactically to minimize any build up of vectors. This would be in direct contrast to those politically correct organizations that need to keep a constant supply of pests on the plants to feed the biological control organisms! Each fall I use permethrin vaporizers in my greenhouses to get things off to a good start, and then include a dose of imidacloprid in my in-line watering in late spring. I find this gives complete protection against a variety of beasties that might otherwise take a fancy to my bulbs when dormant. I also use imidacloprid twice a year on beds outside that house my precious oncocyclus and other rare irises. Its systemic and prolonged activity is a marvel. The only virused plants I've ever seen here were those imported from a UK nursery that had maintained them for years in an environment riddled with aphids. I also sow hundreds of pots of bulb seed every year, for the reasons outlined by Alberto and also because I get lots of variation and plenty of seedlings to try in a number of microhabitats outside. Inevitably many of these die or don't thrive, but without the large numbers of seedlings at minimal cost I'd never be able to establish those plants outside that are not supposed to grow here. Regarding feeding, I give a weak in-line feed with every watering. There is considerable evidence that this is far better than a bolus overdosed infrequently, and works well for me. I use MiracleGro (15:30:15) as soon as a good proportion of leaves are established (about now for fall crocuses, narcissus, cyclamen) and switch over to a 'blossom-booster' version for the last few waterings in the spring if I remember. The cyclamen don't seem to care about the feeding as I get equivalent results with the pots I don't feed nearly as often. The other bulbs definitely benefit. I think muriate of potash actually is potassium chloride (KCl). Best, J. John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net/ USDA Zone 6b