Like John Lonsdale, I do not water Tecophilaea cyanocrocus in summer, when it's dormant. Mine are in the driest of my five ranges of frames. I just repotted them, and noticed that it seems to take seedlings about 4 years to reach flowering size here. This year, after a warm winter, many of the corms made good-sized offsets. They make few but large offsets. After growing them in both the bulb frame and in my frost-free solarium, or plant room, I learned that the ones in the frame, which experience much colder temperatures, invariably flower better. Indeed, I get generally better results with marginally hardy bulbs in the frames. Many are surprisingly resistant to frost as long as they're not very wet. I do lost a few things with this kind of experimentation, but the increased vigor and flowering of the ones that succeed makes up for it, I think. John mentioned that he repotted bulbs into slightly moist compost not because he thought it was a good idea, but because the purchased compost (in the British sense, not the American) comes that way. Some summers I'm forced to do the same because the sand pile and the forest topsoil I use are still moist from late rains. I don't like it either; however, one year when the mix was really damp, I noticed that the Calochortus repotted into it were unusually robust the following season. Jane McGary NOrthwestern Oregon, USA