Dear All, Just a note to explain a little bit about planting depths of my Eucomis here. I plant very deeply because this affords frost protection in the winter. However this also has a beneficial effect in the summer, as planted deeper the soil temperature is cooler and the bulbs are more able to take up water as the soil surface quickly dies out. One of the problems though is that the bulbs don't divide very well at all, they just seem to get bigger. I once lifted my E. pole-evansii to find something similar in size to, and what could only be literally described as a cast iron man-hole cover. Never again, so don't ask for any. lol. Also by planting deeply warm spells in winter effect dormancy less and thus some of my Eucomis don't surface till July, and don't get frosted at all. This is quite a benefit though as it allows me to grow Gladiolus x colvillei and nanus hybrids around the bulbs, these die off as the Eucomis emerge. In my experience the closer the bulbs are to the surface the more frost they receive and the more they divide; and in a similar manner a hyacinth divides after being attacked by a slug. Last year I was sent a large 'very' damaged bulb of comosa 'Rubra', which only had about 1cm sq of basal plate left. It didn't die or divide it just kept on happily growing. It is producing a few shoots at the moment though. Flowering is not effected by planting deeply, infact the spikes are very strong and thick. Some still flop over as usual but I am happy with my method of growing them as it is undemanding, unless I plant in the wrong place. Bulb depth is relative to size. Small bulbs (eg. 5cm) of comosa and bicolour forms are usually grown on in clay pots and overwintered in a cold greenhouse for a season and to increase bulb size quickly, and I'll probably plant these out the following year at about a depth of 15cm. If I get larger bulbs or want to plant my own potted stock, these are often planted at a depth of 30cm from the top of the bulb. I have a very good deep soil, but not neccessarily well-drained, just a loam / clay loam. In the UK Eucomis are regarding as only half-hardy but some are obviously very tough indeed and would be ideal for a north facing situation. I experience leaf wilt here, but only when bulbs are containerised, or are at the front of a south facing border. Most of my plants are planted in between other plants, plants such as Crocosmia, Agapanthus, Tulbaghia and Kniphofia, and thus the leaves are partially shaded, and the ground cooler and probably moister. Thus Eucomis either suffer from sunstroke or a daily temporary lack of water on hot days. I suppose it might be that the bulbs have evolved this way, and it may not be 'water loss', the water might be sent from the leaves to the bulbs as a sort of defense mechanism against drought. Of the more tender species and species not mentioned, well these all survived -6 or -7C this winter, and in unprotected clay pots, filled with Irish Moss Peat compost. Best Wishes, Dave David Fenwick Snr. The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens, Estover, Plymouth, Devon. England. PL6 8TW Tel: 44 (0)1752 301402 NCCPG National Plant Reference Collections of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe, Tulbaghia, Eucomis with Galtonia, Freesia (Anomatheca Group) and Amaryllis Websites The African Garden http://www.theafricangarden.com/ Wildflowers of the Devon and Cornwall Peninsula http://www.aphotoflora.com/ Crocosmia Heritage http://www.crocosmiaheritage.com/ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.13/47 - Release Date: 12/07/2005