Summer growers

[Ottoline Clapham]

Hi all, I was thrilled to receive the bulb exchange Christmas package. The Nerine and Cyrtanthus bulbs still have summer foliage, some other Summer growers have no foliage. My question is: Is it still safe to plant and water these bulbs this late in the season? The summer growers with no foliage I assume would best be kept dry until next Summer? ??Here it is still very hot and dry. Zone 9 , CA northern Central Valley . Any input would be much appreciated. Regards Ottoline

[Uli]

Hello @Ottoline,

Can you tell which summer growers you are referring to?
Most Cyrtanthus are evergreen, here, too it would help to know the species name. Same for Nerine, there are winter growing plants, summer growers and a few almost evergreen ones.
Happy to help but I need more information. Do the bulbs come from the same hemisphere, or from the Southern Hemisphere?

Bye for now 

Uli 

[Sylvia]

My query matches Ottoline: no species known for Cyrtanthus and Nerine bulbs just received from the BX.   Mine show no green foliage or root growth and I wonder whether to plant now or wait for cooler weather.  The Cyrtanthus is "ex Logee" and the Nerine "ex Exbury."   When species is not known what's the safest approach?

Many thanks,
Sylvia Sykora in the cool, slightly dampish SF Bay Area

[Robert_Parks]

My query matches Ottoline: no species known for Cyrtanthus and Nerine bulbs just received from the BX.  Mine show no green foliage or root growth and I wonder whether to plant now or wait for cooler weather.  The Cyrtanthus is "ex Logee" and the Nerine "ex Exbury."  When species is not known what's the safest approach?

Many thanks,
Sylvia Sykora in the cool, slightly dampish SF Bay Area

According to Duncan's "Grow Nerines" (2002), the parentage of the Exbury hybrids was principally sarniensis with some bowdenii...no details though on other admixtures.

Winter growers: humilis, pudica, ridleyi, sarniensis
Summer growers: bowdenii, huttoniae, krigei, laticoma, marincowitzii
Evergreen (winter dormant in cold conditions): the rest, mostly with threadlike leaves: angustifolia, appendiculata, filamentosa, filifolia, frithii, gaberonensis, gibsonii, gracilis, hesseoides, masoniorum, pancratioides, platypetala, pusilla, rehmanii, transvaaalensis, undulata (broader leaves).

There appears to be quite a bit of Nerine information on the web, in addition to the PBS wiki.

Robert

[Uli]

Dear All,
If you receive summergrowing bulbs at this time of the year, I would not store them dry until next spring. Big mature bulbs may survive but it will deplete a lot of their reserves, smaller bulbs may not survive an entire year of enforced dormancy.
I would plant the bulbs into a well draining substrate to avoid rotting due to excess water. Water once after planting and keep them cool and shady, especially if you live in a hot climate like the Californian Central Valley. Most probably the Cyrtanthus will be of the evergreen type, but leaves cut off for practical reasons. It should make new leaves . But more important is root growth. This will help the bulbs to refill their reserves. If summer growing bulbs would start into growth after planting now, water more and keep them going as long as the plant indicates. Which means as long as the foliage remains green. A  summer growing bulb started late in the season may extend its growing season into early winter and go dormant later than usually or it may even skip its first winter dormancy and remain green. If that happens keep watering it through winter but on the sparing side, not to kill it with an excess of water. Eventually a healthy bulb will return into its normal growing rhythm. It is a matter of observation, the plant will be telling you what it wants. Planting in pots will give you more control than planting in the ground. You can transfer the potted bulb into the opoen garden later once you understood its needs.

If the Nerine bulbs are labelled "From Exbury" they are definetely N. sarnienesis hybrids which behave as winter growers and not as summer growers. N. sarniensis is triggered into growth by cooler temperatures and the onset of autumn rain in mediterranean type climates. So they may start earlier in the San Francisco climate than in the Central Valley. Provided your gardens are frost free they would be best planted now in the open garden, watered in once after planting and then wait for the onset of growth without any more water. Once leaves appear the plants should not be allowed to go dry until the leaves wither naturally which should be about next May. Nerine bulbs need at least one growing season to establish and do not like root disturbance, so be patient with them, they most probably will not flower this autumn.

If Nerine bulbs arrive with leaves at this time of the year, they are summer growing N. bowdenii or their hybrids. Plant immediately, water well and keep them watered well into autumn. N. bowdenii is a summer grower and will lose the leaves in autum and resprout in spring. The dormant bulbs are tolerant of winter rain so these can be planted in the open garden. They may lose their leaves now due to the stress of being uprooted and have spent time in the mail, if that happens, plant them immediately, do not damage the roots provided they have not been snipped off and keep watering them but not as much as if they had leaves.

Hope that helps

Uli

[Ottoline Clapham]

Many thanks Uli and Robert, I have then potted up and watered and will follow your advice . Feeling gooood . 
Regards Ottoline 

[Sylvia]

Grateful here, too, for the additional advice about recent BX bulb care.  Both Nerine and Cyrtanthus arrived within 3 days of having been mailed but neither had any appearance of living roots or leaves; the Cyrtanthus was desiccated.  I've potted up both, watered in, and will keep cool and shaded with fingers crossed.  We're heading into what is usually for us the hottest, driest season of  the year.

What would we do without the expertise and kindness of other PBS members?!?

Sylvia in SF Bay Area 

[Uli]

Dear All,

A desiccated Cyrtanthus will be difficult to revive. Excellent drainage is most important, use a substrate like pumice, coarse vermiculite or perlite or gravel which holds some moisture but lets any excess of water drain away. Such a bulb needs a barely moist substrate but will not recover in a totally dry one. I know that it is difficult to get that balance right in a hot climate. Never allow the pot to get exposed to direct sun, this may literally boil the bulb.
On the other hand: bulbs are bulbs, not for nothing. They have reserves for bad times, so let's keep fingers crossed.

Uli