From ldiane.whitehead@gmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2017 21:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Alstroemeria seed Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 21:09:44 -0800 I do not have the 1978 RHS journal with the article. The Garden, vol 103 p 75 Germination of Alstroemerias, Dr P.A. Thompson and P. Newman They published in a couple of other places, so if you can access jstor you will be able to read online. THOMPSON PA, P NEWMAN & PD KEEFE (1979) Germination of species of Alstroemeria L. Gartenbauwissenschaft 44: 97-102. Diane Whitehead From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 01 Mar 2017 00:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Moraea tortillis bulbs Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2017 08:11:06 +0000 Try the South African Bulb Company, Dawie Human - Lifestyle seeds, or Gordon Summerfield. On 28 February 2017 at 15:50, Jim Foster wrote: > Does anyone know where I might buy one of these? I could not find sources > on the web other than seed. > > From bill@cultivariable.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 08:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bill Whitson Subject: Oxalis tetraphylla/deppei seed Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2017 22:00:00 -0800 Hi. I'm new to the list and enjoying it a lot. Does anyone out there know of a source for O. tetraphylla seed? Or, alternatively, a variety that has a non-brevistylous flower? (The commonly available species type, 'Iron Cross', and 'Reverse Iron Cross' unfortunately all have the same flower type, which makes them incompatible.) I've been hoping to do some breeding with this species, but need to get at least one variety with a different flower morph in order to kick off sexual reproduction. Thanks! Bill From billspamcan@gmail.com Thu, 02 Mar 2017 23:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bill Whitson Subject: Oxalis tetraphylla/deppei seed Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2017 22:33:14 -0800 Hi. I'm new to the list and enjoying it a lot. Does anyone out there know of a source for O. tetraphylla seed? Or, alternatively, a variety that has a non-brevistylous flower? (The commonly available species type, 'Iron Cross', and 'Reverse Iron Cross' unfortunately all have the same flower type, which makes them incompatible.) I've been hoping to do some breeding with this species, but need to get at least one variety with a different flower morph in order to kick off sexual reproduction. Thanks! Bill From silverhill@yebo.co.za Fri, 03 Mar 2017 05:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <01c301d29419$e4a94f00$adfbed00$@yebo.co.za> From: "Rachel Saunders" Subject: South African Symposium Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 14:30:02 +0200 In August 2017, IBSA (the Indigenous Bulb Association of South Africa) is holding a 3 day symposium at Goudini, close to Cape Town. If anyone is interested in attending, please contact me for details. Thanks. Regards Rachel Saunders Silverhill Seeds and Books P O Box 53108 Kenilworth 7745 Cape Town Tel: +27 21 762 4245 Fax: +27 21 797 6609 From nortonc26@hotmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 06:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: norton cuba melly Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 13:49:29 +0000 Hello everyone, I just wanted to share results about the germination of Ismene amancaes. Endemic to Peru, they act as indicators of the beginning of winter, since they are the first plant to flower between June and July, they also are indicators, of ENSO ( El Niño South Oscillation) by flowering less than normally. I have germinated 29 out of 31 seeds. The seeds are green photosynthetic, they germinate as soon as they fall on the ground, so I dont think its the kind of seed you can save for a long time in comparison to other plantas of "lomas" ecosystem. I hope I can have positive results giving the bulbs their first cycle in May. Any advice of how to reactivate them? For the ones that use moon phases, at what moon phase should I start watering them? Third quarter? This year I will try to germinate more but with less seeds by bag to see if I can get bigger bulbs. I think many people wonder why we call the ecosystem "lomas" since its translation is hills, some authors say its a transformation from a word belonging to native language "uma" or "oma" which means water, referring to the water we get in the desert coming from the ocean as fog, only in the winter when the South PaCific High gets stronger. You can see pictures of the plant in their natural habitat and my results following this link: https://goo.gl/XtwB6b Best regards Norton Cuba From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 06:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Cynthia Mueller Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 13:53:55 +0000 Norton, the pictures are impressive. Please keep us updated about your progress. Cynthia W Mueller > On Mar 3, 2017, at 7:49 AM, norton cuba melly wrote: > > Hello everyone, > > > > I just wanted to share results about the germination of Ismene amancaes. > > Endemic to Peru, they act as indicators of the beginning of winter, since they are the first plant to flower between June and July, they also are indicators, of ENSO ( El Niño South Oscillation) by flowering less than normally. I have germinated 29 out of 31 seeds. The seeds are green photosynthetic, they germinate as soon as they fall on the ground, so I dont think its the kind of seed you can save for a long time in comparison to other plantas of "lomas" ecosystem. I hope I can have positive results giving the bulbs their first cycle in May. Any advice of how to reactivate them? For the ones that use moon phases, at what moon phase should I start watering them? Third quarter? > > This year I will try to germinate more but with less seeds by bag to see if I can get bigger bulbs. > > > I think many people wonder why we call the ecosystem "lomas" since its translation is hills, some authors say its a transformation from a word belonging to native language "uma" or "oma" which means water, referring to the water we get in the desert coming from the ocean as fog, only in the winter when the South PaCific High gets stronger. > > > You can see pictures of the plant in their natural habitat and my results following this link: > > https://goo.gl/XtwB6b > > > Best regards > > Norton Cuba > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jgglatt@gmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 06:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Rhodophiala from Seed Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 08:58:28 -0500 Anita Roselle asked about growing Rhodophiala from seed. I started with bulbs so cannot exactly help with her query. But the flower she describes: "looked like a red amaryllis with a white stripe down the middle of each petal" sounds more like Hippeastrum johnsonii than rhodophiala. If it was about the size of a small amaryllis it was the former, if much daintier it would be the latter. Regardless, I'm surprised either on is thriving outdoors on the border between zones 6B and 7A. Here in western New Jersey I only place my potted rhodophiala and hippeastrum outdoors in summer. Judy in New Jersey where this morning's temperatures have reminded me that no, Spring is not yet here. From petersirises@gmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 07:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 14:27:01 +0000 My limited experience of amanacaes is that it grows from mid/ late Summer until mid Winter, grown indoors/ under cover in the northern Hemisphere. I would not give such bulbs much water to wake them up, rather a little humidity and wait for them to grow enough leaf to use water, before wetting the soil. Peter (UK) On 3 March 2017 at 13:49, norton cuba melly wrote: > > > Endemic to Peru, they act as indicators of the beginning of winter, since > they are the first plant to flower between June and July, they also are > indicators, of ENSO ( El Niño South Oscillation) by flowering less than > normally. I have germinated 29 out of 31 seeds. The seeds are green > photosynthetic, they germinate as soon as they fall on the ground, so I > dont think its the kind of seed you can save for a long time in comparison > to other plantas of "lomas" ecosystem. I hope I can have positive results > giving the bulbs their first cycle in May. Any advice of how to reactivate > them? > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bbbradm@hotmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 07:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Brad M Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 1 Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 14:28:51 +0000 Not a single seed of my last lot of Moraea came up Extremely disappointed Get Outlook for Android ________________________________ From: pbs on behalf of pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Friday, March 3, 2017 11:38:10 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 1 Send pbs mailing list submissions to pbs@lists.ibiblio.org To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org You can reach the person managing the list at pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." List-Post: To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris misc - Found Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 27, 2017, at 4:52 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > > Jim; > > Sounds like a great discussion in which I?m sure we?ll all learn something new. To begin, there seems to be as many definitions of species than there are taxonomists? This sums up one of the biggest issues in taxonomy as there is no strict definition or guideline of "species." Ploidy levels and sterility are handled differently. Some taxonomists still hold on to the concept of giving every accession its on variety name based on minor differences while others choose to just expand the description of the species. Even with the newer DNA sequencing technology on the horizon these issues will still exist. On a side : Tony Avent, the true L shaanxiensis is in the US..at least one bulb is. I can give you a contact, but it's a private collector who might have an extra one or two only. It's occasionally listed on one of the Chinese language auction sites (no not the same people offering glow in the dark green ones with free rainbow roses on EBay ). From what I was told it's very rare there and not easily available. You have stuff he's looking for though :) Tim Chapman ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 11:19:27 -0800 From: Rodger Whitlock To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Alstroemeria seed Message-ID: <58B5CD3F.1000600@telus.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed The RHS journal, "The Garden", had a squib many years ago on work done at Kew regarding germination of Alstroemeria that is worth tracking down. It would be in the 1980s or 1990s, but I can't give a more precise citation without burrowing through the journal issues one by one. IIRC, it involved dissecting out part of the seed body that conceals the embryo, then stratification in more than one stage, but my memory isn't good enough to cough up all the details with accuracy. If someone finds this article, would the RHS allow the PBS to include the text on its wiki? ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 12:03:56 -0800 From: Diane Whitehead To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Alstroemeria seed Message-ID: <98E2F199-0DE1-4EE1-A97B-C105427D9751@islandnet.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Martyn Rix's April 2003 RHS article "New Treasures of the Incas", about Alstroemeria and Bomarea species, gives advice about growing from seed, but does not refer back to the Kew article. Diane Whitehead ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 20:49:48 -0500 From: Anita Roselle To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Rhodophiala bifida Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 I am a newbe to the forum, have not posted before. I hope I am at the right address. I purchased Rhodophiala bifida seed from the seed offerings, I planted them in a mix of Faffard potting soil with added sand. The pot was put in my greenhouse, intermediate temps. and I now have about 9 shoots coming up that are about 2" tall at this point and very skinny. I need to know what I need to do with them right now, I think it is too cold to put them outside. Do they need very bright sun, part shade ect? When do I transplant them to individual pots and that sort of information. I am a retired perennial propagator but have never done much with bulb seed. Your help will be very much appreciated. I live on the border between Zones 6B and 7A. I believe that this is the plant that I have seen in a yard near here, it looked like a red amaryllis with a white stripe down the middle of each petal. Before I could ask if I could have a bit of it the house was sold and the new owner tore them all out and probably threw them in the trash. I hope this is what they were and I can hopefully establish them in my garden, if I can find the right microclimate for them. I am anxious to try some of the hardy Lycoris, there is a single L. radiata down the road and I have a patch of what I believe are L.squamiera. Any help or suggestions you can give will be very much appreciated. ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 21:09:44 -0800 From: Diane Whitehead To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Alstroemeria seed Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I do not have the 1978 RHS journal with the article. The Garden, vol 103 p 75 Germination of Alstroemerias, Dr P.A. Thompson and P. Newman They published in a couple of other places, so if you can access jstor you will be able to read online. THOMPSON PA, P NEWMAN & PD KEEFE (1979) Germination of species of Alstroemeria L. Gartenbauwissenschaft 44: 97-102. Diane Whitehead ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2017 08:11:06 +0000 From: Peter Taggart To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Moraea tortillis bulbs Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Try the South African Bulb Company, Dawie Human - Lifestyle seeds, or Gordon Summerfield. On 28 February 2017 at 15:50, Jim Foster wrote: > Does anyone know where I might buy one of these? I could not find sources > on the web other than seed. > > ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2017 22:33:14 -0800 From: Bill Whitson To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Oxalis tetraphylla/deppei seed Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Hi. I'm new to the list and enjoying it a lot. Does anyone out there know of a source for O. tetraphylla seed? Or, alternatively, a variety that has a non-brevistylous flower? (The commonly available species type, 'Iron Cross', and 'Reverse Iron Cross' unfortunately all have the same flower type, which makes them incompatible.) I've been hoping to do some breeding with this species, but need to get at least one variety with a different flower morph in order to kick off sexual reproduction. Thanks! Bill ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 14:30:02 +0200 From: "Rachel Saunders" To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" Subject: [pbs] South African Symposium Message-ID: <01c301d29419$e4a94f00$adfbed00$@yebo.co.za> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In August 2017, IBSA (the Indigenous Bulb Association of South Africa) is holding a 3 day symposium at Goudini, close to Cape Town. If anyone is interested in attending, please contact me for details. Thanks. Regards Rachel Saunders Silverhill Seeds and Books P O Box 53108 Kenilworth 7745 Cape Town Tel: +27 21 762 4245 Fax: +27 21 797 6609 ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ------------------------------ End of pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 1 *********************************** From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Fri, 03 Mar 2017 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: Rhodophiala seed Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 18:50:05 +0100 Hello Anita, Welcome to our society. You will find a lot of information, good seeds and bulbs and maybe even friends. I have been a member for a very long time and still find it very worth it. We have probably ordered the same Rhodophiala seed from one of the last BX, my seedlings look exactly like the ones you describe. This is how Rhodophiala seedlings look like, just one thin grass or chive like leaf. Rhodophiala is a winter growing bulb and will go dormant in summer. They flower in autumn before the leaves appear, the foliage will last through winter and needs frost free conditions and dormancy is induced by warm temperatures and lack of rain. It is good you mention that your background is a perennial plant propagator. Perennial plants need potting on even in a seedling stage to develop uniformly but bulb seedlings do not at all like that. Gesneriads are an exception and benefit from frequent potting on. What I do with these bulb seedlings: leave them in their original pot for at least one season, better two or even three seasons without repotting. Sometimes a first year old seedling will not go fully dormant like a mature bulb of the same species so in this case keep watering gently during "dormancy" If these seedlings go dormant their bulbs may be very tiny, mostly on the very bottom of the pot, and, if the pot would be in a sand plunge even under the pot in the sand. So don't plunge them. And use relatively deep pots. Bulbs may be so tiny that they can be missed when repotting. Most bulbs like to grow crowded, so not to worry about a densely populated pot. If you use plastic pots which I recommend because their moisture behaviour is much more stable than small clay pots you can feel growing bulbs bulding the pot. That would be a moment to repot. I repot my bulbs at the end of the dormant period so they can immediately start into growth. For seedlings it is best to try to keep them going as long as possible during their first season. Which means to avoid the stimulus for dormancy: too much heat, too bright sun and lack of water. Good light and even moisture without excess is the best recipe, Seedlings do benefit from careful low dose fertilizing. Are you sure about your hardiness zone? You describe a Hippeastrum in the neighbour's garden not a Rhodophiala. Hippeastrum are summer growing , spring flowering and winter dormant but not very frost hardy. If you have regular frost in your area, Rhodophiala is not the plant to grow in the open garden because the leaves would freeze during their growing period. Rhodophiala is perfect for mediterranean climate gardens. If you look or ask around in your neighbourhood, there might be more of those Hippeastrum you liked. In some parts of the world they are very popular garden bulbs. There is also an old hybrid called Hippeastrum X Johnsonii which is very nice and which is widely grown in some parts of the US. bye for today Uli From ericklux@gmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 11:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: erick lux Subject: South African Symposium Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 08:44:43 -1000 Hi Rachel, I'd like details adopt the symposium Thanks, Erick lux Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 3, 2017, at 2:30 AM, Rachel Saunders wrote: > > In August 2017, IBSA (the Indigenous Bulb Association of South Africa) is > holding a 3 day symposium at Goudini, close to Cape Town. If anyone is > interested in attending, please contact me for details. Thanks. > > Regards > Rachel Saunders > Silverhill Seeds and Books > P O Box 53108 > Kenilworth > 7745 Cape Town > Tel: +27 21 762 4245 > Fax: +27 21 797 6609 > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From plantboy@gmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Cody H Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2017 19:41:58 +0000 I've really been enjoying learning about the lomas and seeing all these great photos and info getting added to the wiki. Thanks Norton for all the work you've been doing! I hope your conservation efforts are very successful. On Fri, Mar 3, 2017 at 6:27 AM Peter Taggart wrote: > My limited experience of amanacaes is that it grows from mid/ late Summer > until mid Winter, grown indoors/ under cover in the northern Hemisphere. I > would not give such bulbs much water to wake them up, rather a little > humidity and wait for them to grow enough leaf to use water, before wetting > the soil. > Peter (UK) > > On 3 March 2017 at 13:49, norton cuba melly wrote: > > > > > > Endemic to Peru, they act as indicators of the beginning of winter, since > > they are the first plant to flower between June and July, they also are > > indicators, of ENSO ( El Niño South Oscillation) by flowering less than > > normally. I have germinated 29 out of 31 seeds. The seeds are green > > photosynthetic, they germinate as soon as they fall on the ground, so I > > dont think its the kind of seed you can save for a long time in > comparison > > to other plantas of "lomas" ecosystem. I hope I can have positive results > > giving the bulbs their first cycle in May. Any advice of how to > reactivate > > them? > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <72f7f36f-0b06-a11b-d52c-49681cb3630d@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: centrifuge tubes for pollen Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2017 10:20:25 +1300 What is the size of the centrifuge tubes I can keep pollen in to put in the freezer? Ina Crossley From jshields46074@gmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: James SHIELDS Subject: centrifuge tubes for pollen Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2017 21:32:02 +0000 I use the 1.5 ml size with attached cap On Fri, Mar 3, 2017 at 4:20 PM Ina Crossley wrote: > What is the size of the centrifuge tubes I can keep pollen in to put in > the freezer? > > Ina Crossley > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- James Shields jshields46074@gmail.com P.O. Box 92 Westfield, IN 46074 U.S.A. From dmaltby64@gmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Maltby Subject: South African Symposium Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 18:51:30 -0500 Hi Rachel You have tweaked my interest. Could you send me details. Perhaps also some of the things of interest in the area. Thanks David Maltby Ontario, Canada On Fri, Mar 3, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Rachel Saunders wrote: > In August 2017, IBSA (the Indigenous Bulb Association of South Africa) is > holding a 3 day symposium at Goudini, close to Cape Town. If anyone is > interested in attending, please contact me for details. Thanks. > > Regards > Rachel Saunders > Silverhill Seeds and Books > P O Box 53108 > Kenilworth > 7745 Cape Town > Tel: +27 21 762 4245 > Fax: +27 21 797 6609 > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ldiane.whitehead@gmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <0A529AE8-A042-4D42-9F13-5AA9F884B05A@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: South African Symposium Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 16:08:34 -0800 I went to the last one. Good talks. Great bus trips out to see wild flowers. Fantastic flowers. Diane Whitehead Victoria B.C., Canada > > >> In August 2017, IBSA (the Indigenous Bulb Association of South Africa) is >> holding a 3 day symposium at Goudini, close to Cape Town. If anyone is >> interested in attending, please contact me for details. Thanks. >> From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Fri, 03 Mar 2017 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <15a96aa193b-71bc-f110@webprd-a77.mail.aol.com> From: Lakedees via pbs Subject: Rhodophiala seed Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 19:13:34 -0500 A little trick I have found is starting Rhodophiala seeds in spring and keep water -----Original Message----- From: Johannes Ulrich Urban To: Pacifib Bulb Society messages Sent: Fri, Mar 3, 2017 6:48 pm Subject: [pbs] Rhodophiala seed Hello Anita, Welcome to our society. You will find a lot of information, good seeds and bulbs and maybe even friends. I have been a member for a very long time and still find it very worth it. We have probably ordered the same Rhodophiala seed from one of the last BX, my seedlings look exactly like the ones you describe. This is how Rhodophiala seedlings look like, just one thin grass or chive like leaf. Rhodophiala is a winter growing bulb and will go dormant in summer. They flower in autumn before the leaves appear, the foliage will last through winter and needs frost free conditions and dormancy is induced by warm temperatures and lack of rain. It is good you mention that your background is a perennial plant propagator. Perennial plants need potting on even in a seedling stage to develop uniformly but bulb seedlings do not at all like that. Gesneriads are an exception and benefit from frequent potting on. What I do with these bulb seedlings: leave them in their original pot for at least one season, better two or even three seasons without repotting. Sometimes a first year old seedling will not go fully dormant like a mature bulb of the same species so in this case keep watering gently during "dormancy" If these seedlings go dormant their bulbs may be very tiny, mostly on the very bottom of the pot, and, if the pot would be in a sand plunge even under the pot in the sand. So don't plunge them. And use relatively deep pots. Bulbs may be so tiny that they can be missed when repotting. Most bulbs like to grow crowded, so not to worry about a densely populated pot. If you use plastic pots which I recommend because their moisture behaviour is much more stable than small clay pots you can feel growing bulbs bulding the pot. That would be a moment to repot. I repot my bulbs at the end of the dormant period so they can immediately start into growth. For seedlings it is best to try to keep them going as long as possible during their first season. Which means to avoid the stimulus for dormancy: too much heat, too bright sun and lack of water. Good light and even moisture without excess is the best recipe, Seedlings do benefit from careful low dose fertilizing. Are you sure about your hardiness zone? You describe a Hippeastrum in the neighbour's garden not a Rhodophiala. Hippeastrum are summer growing , spring flowering and winter dormant but not very frost hardy. If you have regular frost in your area, Rhodophiala is not the plant to grow in the open garden because the leaves would freeze during their growing period. Rhodophiala is perfect for mediterranean climate gardens. If you look or ask around in your neighbourhood, there might be more of those Hippeastrum you liked. In some parts of the world they are very popular garden bulbs. There is also an old hybrid called Hippeastrum X Johnsonii which is very nice and which is widely grown in some parts of the US. bye for today Uli From teck11@embarqmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <003601d2949b$059f8db0$10dea910$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: centrifuge tubes for pollen Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2017 22:54:27 -0500 Another alternative that has worked great for me is a half inch of silica gel in the bottom of a plastic card file and glassine envelopes. Anything works great if you only have a dozen pollens to keep track of, but when you have fifty or a hundred, it's a lot easier to search a card file (and you can write as large as you want on the envelope). Tim Eck > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James SHIELDS > Sent: Friday, March 03, 2017 4:32 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] re centrifuge tubes for pollen > > I use the 1.5 ml size with attached cap > > > On Fri, Mar 3, 2017 at 4:20 PM Ina Crossley wrote: > > > What is the size of the centrifuge tubes I can keep pollen in to put > > in the freezer? > > > > Ina Crossley > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > -- > James Shields jshields46074@gmail.com > P.O. Box 92 > Westfield, IN 46074 > U.S.A. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bruceandjill.schroder@gmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 21:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bruce Schroder Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs - information sought Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2017 15:37:43 +1100 Norton - I commend you on your work and I for one am very excited to see that someone is actually taking this on. I find it intriguing that YOU are seeking information on growing this species because it seems to me YOU have more knowledge and experience than just about anyone else. This is one very rare bulb in cultivation and I would estimate there are not many more than 20 or 30 people/collectors world wide growing it. It would also seem that almost all of these plants are from a single clone as I have not heard of anyone successfully pollinating their plants, let alone anyone growing it from seed. Further, seed to my knowledge has never been available for anyone to try to germinate it so your are undertaking true pioneering work here! You pictures posted on the PBS site are a first - I didn't even know what the seed looked like! Keep it up. The world market for this species would be enormous. Bruce Schroder Australia From petersirises@gmail.com Fri, 03 Mar 2017 21:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs - information sought Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2017 05:15:32 +0000 I think that it is cultivated in Peru, and Rare Plants UK distributed seedlings, a couple of years ago.... Peter (UK) On 4 March 2017 at 04:37, Bruce Schroder wrote: This is one > > very rare bulb in cultivation and I would estimate there are not many more > than 20 or 30 people/collectors world wide growing it. It would also seem > that almost all of these plants are from a single clone as I have not heard > of anyone successfully pollinating their plants, let alone anyone growing > it from seed. > The world market for this species would be enormous. > From nortonc26@hotmail.com Sat, 04 Mar 2017 06:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: norton cuba melly Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs - information sought Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2017 13:17:48 +0000 Regarding cultivation in Peru, I only know 2 projects that collect amancaes seeds and germinate them, but only in situ. One of the projects has been abandoned since its inside what is nowadays the property of a cement industry, that area is where the Bomarea ovata pictures are from, I don´t know how long they will last. The other project belongs to a community of farmers that have declared an area of private conservation, its called" Lomas of Asia", since there isnt much population there, its one of the most pristine "lomas" of Lima; they are giving an ecotouristic service there, and a lot of studies area happening with several people of all professions, I spoke with the leader of that project, he told me they propagated 10 000 seeds of amancaes, since they havent published anything, I only take him by his word; they already have 1 ha. of amancaes, 100 bulbs per square meter is densely enough I think, so I dont know if propagation is actually required, specially because amancaes bulbs live decades. About cultivation abroad I dont have information about that so thanks for sharing. Norton ________________________________ From: pbs on behalf of Peter Taggart Sent: Saturday, March 4, 2017 5:15 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Ismene amancaes bulbs - information sought I think that it is cultivated in Peru, and Rare Plants UK distributed seedlings, a couple of years ago.... Peter (UK) On 4 March 2017 at 04:37, Bruce Schroder wrote: This is one > > very rare bulb in cultivation and I would estimate there are not many more > than 20 or 30 people/collectors world wide growing it. It would also seem > that almost all of these plants are from a single clone as I have not heard > of anyone successfully pollinating their plants, let alone anyone growing > it from seed. > The world market for this species would be enormous. > From nortonc26@hotmail.com Sat, 04 Mar 2017 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: norton cuba melly Subject: Light bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 00:49:51 +0000 Hello everyone, I want to ask about light bulbs for plants, since I dont have a backyard I only have my plants expose to sunlight in a windowsill, that can reduce posibilities of forming an strong bulb . But i wanted to know if any of you can advice me a brand of a light bulb that offers full spectrum for plant growth. I have a family member traveling to the US 🇺🇸, so if anyone that lives there can tell me where to buy, what brand, how much watts... ? It would be helpful Thanks if you can help me Best regards Norton _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pmatthews52@hotmail.co.uk Sun, 05 Mar 2017 04:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: paul matthews Subject: BX instructions Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 12:10:46 +0000 Good morning, blue sky today instead of the usual rain! Just thought I would check with you. I will have some more Pamianthe seed to send shortly but the pods are going to ripen over several weeks by the look of them. Would you like me to store it send it all at once or would you prefer to have seed as the pods open? Kind regards Paul ________________________________ From: pbs on behalf of ds429 Sent: 08 January 2017 20:56 To: pbs Subject: [pbs] BX instructions Please, all, re-read the instuctions that preface each BX offering. You must include your name and address with each order. Also, if you change your address, please inform both me (Dell) and Membership Director, Jane McGary. Thanks for your help, Happy New Year! Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Pacific Bulb Society | List pacificbulbsociety.org The PBS List is an email discussion of bulbs, sponsored by the Pacific Bulb Society, for people around the world. Although bulbs (defined more broadly to include all ... http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Welcome to the Pacific Bulb Society Wiki pacificbulbsociety.org This guide was created by the members of the Pacific Bulb Society e-mail discussion list, a group of people from around the world who are interested in growing and ... From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sun, 05 Mar 2017 05:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1979690253.3478804.1488716250935@mail.yahoo.com> From: Anders Bo Petersen via pbs Subject: BX instructions Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 12:17:30 +0000 (UTC) blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px #715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white !important; } HiI am interested in seeds if possibleRegardsAndersCopenhagen, Denmark Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On søndag, marts 5, 2017, 13:11, paul matthews wrote: Good morning, blue sky today instead of the usual rain! Just thought I would check with you. I will have some more Pamianthe seed to send shortly but the pods are going to ripen over several weeks by the look of them. Would you like me to store it send it all at once or would you prefer to have seed as the pods open? Kind regards Paul ________________________________ From: pbs on behalf of ds429 Sent: 08 January 2017 20:56 To: pbs Subject: [pbs] BX instructions Please, all, re-read the instuctions that preface each BX offering. You must include your name and address with each order. Also, if you change your address, please inform both me (Dell) and Membership Director, Jane McGary. Thanks for your help, Happy New Year! Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Pacific Bulb Society | List pacificbulbsociety.org The PBS List is an email discussion of bulbs, sponsored by the Pacific Bulb Society, for people around the world. Although bulbs (defined more broadly to include all ... http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Welcome to the Pacific Bulb Society Wiki pacificbulbsociety.org This guide was created by the members of the Pacific Bulb Society e-mail discussion list, a group of people from around the world who are interested in growing and ... _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sun, 05 Mar 2017 05:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <15a9e6e32e7-4827-12042@webprd-m07.mail.aol.com> From: Lakedees via pbs Subject: Rhodophiala seed Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 07:25:06 -0500 My message got cut off. I have found that if you start Rhodophiala seeds outside in spring you can keep them watered and grow through summer into the fall so you get almost two seasons of growth. I have gotten even more growth by growing in greenhouse keeping them growing before I set them out in zone 7b. At this time I have four species that I can grow with temperature low of 6 degrees last year. I will also add that several of the species are said to need cold treatment but have found they don't.(R. splendens, R. montana,R. chilensis) George Dees Liberty, NC. Zone 7b -----Original Message----- From: Lakedees via pbs To: pbs Cc: Lakedees Sent: Sat, Mar 4, 2017 5:33 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodophiala seed A little trick I have found is starting Rhodophiala seeds in spring and keep water -----Original Message----- From: Johannes Ulrich Urban To: Pacifib Bulb Society messages Sent: Fri, Mar 3, 2017 6:48 pm Subject: [pbs] Rhodophiala seed Hello Anita, Welcome to our society. You will find a lot of information, good seeds and bulbs and maybe even friends. I have been a member for a very long time and still find it very worth it. We have probably ordered the same Rhodophiala seed from one of the last BX, my seedlings look exactly like the ones you describe. This is how Rhodophiala seedlings look like, just one thin grass or chive like leaf. Rhodophiala is a winter growing bulb and will go dormant in summer. They flower in autumn before the leaves appear, the foliage will last through winter and needs frost free conditions and dormancy is induced by warm temperatures and lack of rain. It is good you mention that your background is a perennial plant propagator. Perennial plants need potting on even in a seedling stage to develop uniformly but bulb seedlings do not at all like that. Gesneriads are an exception and benefit from frequent potting on. What I do with these bulb seedlings: leave them in their original pot for at least one season, better two or even three seasons without repotting. Sometimes a first year old seedling will not go fully dormant like a mature bulb of the same species so in this case keep watering gently during "dormancy" If these seedlings go dormant their bulbs may be very tiny, mostly on the very bottom of the pot, and, if the pot would be in a sand plunge even under the pot in the sand. So don't plunge them. And use relatively deep pots. Bulbs may be so tiny that they can be missed when repotting. Most bulbs like to grow crowded, so not to worry about a densely populated pot. If you use plastic pots which I recommend because their moisture behaviour is much more stable than small clay pots you can feel growing bulbs bulding the pot. That would be a moment to repot. I repot my bulbs at the end of the dormant period so they can immediately start into growth. For seedlings it is best to try to keep them going as long as possible during their first season. Which means to avoid the stimulus for dormancy: too much heat, too bright sun and lack of water. Good light and even moisture without excess is the best recipe, Seedlings do benefit from careful low dose fertilizing. Are you sure about your hardiness zone? You describe a Hippeastrum in the neighbour's garden not a Rhodophiala. Hippeastrum are summer growing , spring flowering and winter dormant but not very frost hardy. If you have regular frost in your area, Rhodophiala is not the plant to grow in the open garden because the leaves would freeze during their growing period. Rhodophiala is perfect for mediterranean climate gardens. If you look or ask around in your neighbourhood, there might be more of those Hippeastrum you liked. In some parts of the world they are very popular garden bulbs. There is also an old hybrid called Hippeastrum X Johnsonii which is very nice and which is widely grown in some parts of the US. bye for today Uli From k.preteroti@verizon.net Sun, 05 Mar 2017 05:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kenneth Preteroti Subject: Light bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 07:49:30 -0500 Norton. When you say light bulbs I am sure you do not mean incandescent as they basically do not exist the US anymore nor are they a good choice for plants. Therefore I believe you have two options. Fluorescent bulbs are an option . They come in many spectrums. I am not convinced you would need the speciality spectrum bulbs (which are many times more costly then what is available at the big box stores) as it appears the light you need is for supplemental use. They produce little heat, fairly inexpensive, and last a year before needing replacement. Fixtures and non specialty bulbs are readily available. Fluorescent bulbs have some drawbacks. If you are growing bulbs/plants that require high light you need more bulbs and closer to the plants. For example you may need 4-4 foot long lights to cover a 2' by 4' shelf with the light bulbs within 6" of the plants. Fluorescent lights do not provide good depth of lighting so they work best with shorting growing plants of uniform height. LED lighting is another option. They are more expensive. They have many similarities and benefits over fluorescent. They come in full spectrum. They do not produce heat. They are efficient and lower energy use than fluorescent. Two-four foot long fixtures will easily cover a 2' by 4' shelf. The depth of lighting is much greater. 24" between fixture and plants. They are often dimmable. They should last up to ten years. They are not usually available at a big box store and need to be ordered on-line. One last comment. You indicated you have family coming to the US. Remember the US uses 110 volt ac. What voltage do you use and our plugs are different. LED are available in 110 and 220 when ordering on-line. Ken P Old Bridge, NJ Zone 6 b Ken P Old Bridge, NJ Zone 6 b From bulbman@hotmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 05:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alan Subject: Ismene amancaes Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 13:12:51 +0000 One of my two clones of this species always sets some seed (selfs); the other doesn't. Its relatively short season of growth (though not as short as Paramongaia) might make it less of a hit on the global marketplace than Bruce suggests. The mass gregarious flowering on the lomas is similar to what the related Leptochiton quitoensis (and possibly I. helianthus) do where there populations have been left undisturbed. I am glad to hear from Norton that at least one of the lomas that harbor the species is being preserved. Alan Meerow From anitaroselle@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 06:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Fwd: Rhodophiala seed Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 08:28:52 -0500 ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Anita Roselle Date: Sat, Mar 4, 2017 at 6:01 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodophiala seed To: pbs@lists.ibibb.org Hello Uli, thank you for all your welcome and the information. I did germinated them in a tall pot and they are like chives, I hope not as aggressive, chives seed all over my garden. I had started them in my greenhouse but put them out in my cold frame as I did not want them to grow too much too soon, it seems that was probably the right thing to do if they are winter growers and will go dormant in the heat of the greenhouse. We have had a very strange winter temperature wise. It has been in the upper 60's and now 3 days below freezing at night. My cold frame is good so they did not get below freezing in there. I will leave them in the pots as you suggest. Want to learn how folks over winter tender bulbs in pots, I don't know if they need to be in a sand plunge or just in a cold frame ect. I have 3 pots of Lillium martagon seedlings this will be their second spring, one of the seedlings did not want to go dormant at all but its leaf is now shriveled, hope its ok, the rest went dormant. I think maybe I should leave them another year. The same for 3 pots of Cyclamen seedlings, they are so cute I don't want to loose them. Any suggestions with them would be greatly appreciated. You have ID my mystery bulb, it is Hippeastrum x Johnsonii, I have found pictures and that is it. I did not think it was a Rhodophiala but was grasping at straws. I have not seen any others any where around here, I will have to find a good sunny spot with good drainage when I get some of the Hippeastrum x Johnsonii, all I have to do is find a nursery that has them, will try Brent & Becky's first seems like one they would have. I am in the North Carolina mountains south west of Asheville. We are definitely 7A-6B zone depending on how high up a mountain or down in a hollow you are. I can't grow a lot of things that a mile away do beautifully. Warm air rises so folks up hill can bloom Calla Lilies but I can't keep them alive. I have learned a lot about air movement, temperature and microclimates since I have lived here. By for now, Anita R. On Fri, Mar 3, 2017 at 7:13 PM, Lakedees via pbs wrote: > A little trick I have found is starting Rhodophiala seeds in spring and > keep water > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Johannes Ulrich Urban > To: Pacifib Bulb Society messages > Sent: Fri, Mar 3, 2017 6:48 pm > Subject: [pbs] Rhodophiala seed > > Hello Anita, > > Welcome to our society. You will find a lot of information, good seeds > and bulbs and maybe even friends. I have been a member for a very long > time and still find it very worth it. > > We have probably ordered the same Rhodophiala seed from one of the last > BX, my seedlings look exactly like the ones you describe. This is how > Rhodophiala seedlings look like, just one thin grass or chive like leaf. > Rhodophiala is a winter growing bulb and will go dormant in summer. They > flower in autumn before the leaves appear, the foliage will last through > winter and needs frost free conditions and dormancy is induced by warm > temperatures and lack of rain. It is good you mention that your > background is a perennial plant propagator. Perennial plants need > potting on even in a seedling stage to develop uniformly but bulb > seedlings do not at all like that. Gesneriads are an exception and > benefit from frequent potting on. What I do with these bulb seedlings: > leave them in their original pot for at least one season, better two or > even three seasons without repotting. Sometimes a first year old > seedling will not go fully dormant like a mature bulb of the same > species so in this case keep watering gently during "dormancy" If these > seedlings go dormant their bulbs may be very tiny, mostly on the very > bottom of the pot, and, if the pot would be in a sand plunge even under > the pot in the sand. So don't plunge them. And use relatively deep pots. > Bulbs may be so tiny that they can be missed when repotting. Most bulbs > like to grow crowded, so not to worry about a densely populated pot. If > you use plastic pots which I recommend because their moisture behaviour > is much more stable than small clay pots you can feel growing bulbs > bulding the pot. That would be a moment to repot. I repot my bulbs at > the end of the dormant period so they can immediately start into growth. > For seedlings it is best to try to keep them going as long as possible > during their first season. Which means to avoid the stimulus for > dormancy: too much heat, too bright sun and lack of water. Good light > and even moisture without excess is the best recipe, Seedlings do > benefit from careful low dose fertilizing. > > Are you sure about your hardiness zone? You describe a Hippeastrum in > the neighbour's garden not a Rhodophiala. Hippeastrum are summer growing > , spring flowering and winter dormant but not very frost hardy. If you > have regular frost in your area, Rhodophiala is not the plant to grow in > the open garden because the leaves would freeze during their growing > period. Rhodophiala is perfect for mediterranean climate gardens. > > If you look or ask around in your neighbourhood, there might be more of > those Hippeastrum you liked. In some parts of the world they are very > popular garden bulbs. There is also an old hybrid called Hippeastrum X > Johnsonii which is very nice and which is widely grown in some parts of > the US. > > bye for today > > > Uli > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jpsknisely@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 07:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jonathan Knisely Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 4 Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 09:20:13 -0500 There are a number of approaches to the use of lights. Fluorescent tubes that were fabricated to provide the appropriate spectrum of light for indoor growing of plants are less commonly seen, though still available. I am unsure whether or not the standard lengths that might be used in North America will fit the fixtures (and voltages) for you, Norton. More recently, the LED technological advances have resulted in a large number of devices being fabricated, primarily, I suspect, for assisting those who wish to furtively cultivate marijuana indoors. Below is a link to a website that provided a ranking of a variety of LED products. One of the products reviewed might be ideal for your windowsill bulb-raising. The timing of getting it (i.e. you don't want to pay for something that is out of stock and only able to be delivered a month after your family member leaves the United States) is worth considering. Some of these may not be too expensive to have directly shipped to you in Peru (as they aren't like our classic conception of fragile light bulbs)! https://goo.gl/g5rc5N Jonathan Knisely New Haven, CT (where we have Eranthis, Galanthus, and Crocus tommasinianus up and blooming so far) USDA 6a > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 00:49:51 +0000 > From: norton cuba melly > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] Light bulbs > Message-ID: > namprd08.prod.outlook.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hello everyone, > I want to ask about light bulbs for plants, since I dont have a backyard I > only have my plants expose to sunlight in a windowsill, that can reduce > posibilities of forming an strong bulb . But i wanted to know if any of you > can advice me a brand of a light bulb that offers full spectrum for plant > growth. I have a family member traveling to the US ??, so if anyone that > lives there can tell me where to buy, what brand, how much watts... ? It > would be helpful > Thanks if you can help me > > Best regards > Norton > > From anitaroselle@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 08:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Rhodophiala seed Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 10:52:46 -0500 Hello George, I don't know if you have gotten my reply, I have been having trouble with the address-that is- getting it right. I hope it got to you. I did get the message that was cut off and your post that added to it. That is interesting that you were able to keep them from going into dormancy over the winter in he greenhouse and got about 2 years growth. I may try to do that with mine and see what happens. That is interesting that there are some that can handle as low as 6 degrees, was that with a heavy mulch or not? The ones that don't seem to need a chilling are they the same one or different? Since they are summer dormant what do you do with them in the summer, where do you keep them? What stimulates them to begin growing in the fall, are they like the big Amaryllis, they just start pushing leaves? Here I go with a wealth of questions, hope you don't mind. I had never heard of Liberty, looked it up, how far from Raleigh are you? I am in Brevard, about 50 miles south west of Asheville. Did you have a cold night last night, it was 26 here this morning, I don't think it got much, if any, below 20 here all winter. That is very unusual, usually we have a few night's that are below 10 in a normal winter. I have lived here over 20 years and the winters are getting warmer, once not long after I moved here it was 5 below but have not had that happen since. The 'usual' pattern is below freezing, 10-16 degrees at night and in the mid 40's during the day. Talk to you later, Anita R. On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 8:28 AM, Anita Roselle wrote: > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Anita Roselle > Date: Sat, Mar 4, 2017 at 6:01 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodophiala seed > To: pbs@lists.ibibb.org > > > Hello Uli, thank you for all your welcome and the information. > > I did germinated them in a tall pot and they are like chives, I hope not > as aggressive, chives seed all over my garden. I had started them in my > greenhouse but put them out in my cold frame as I did not want them to grow > too much too soon, it seems that was probably the right thing to do if they > are winter growers and will go dormant in the heat of the greenhouse. We > have had a very strange winter temperature wise. It has been in the upper > 60's and now 3 days below freezing at night. My cold frame is good so they > did not get below freezing in there. I will leave them in the pots as you > suggest. Want to learn how folks over winter tender bulbs in pots, I don't > know if they need to be in a sand plunge or just in a cold frame ect. > > I have 3 pots of Lillium martagon seedlings this will be their second > spring, one of the seedlings did not want to go dormant at all but its leaf > is now shriveled, hope its ok, the rest went dormant. I think maybe I > should leave them another year. The same for 3 pots of Cyclamen seedlings, > they are so cute I don't want to loose them. Any suggestions with them > would be greatly appreciated. > You have ID my mystery bulb, it is Hippeastrum x Johnsonii, I have found > pictures and that is it. I did not think it was a Rhodophiala but was > grasping at straws. I have not seen any others any where around here, I > will have to find a good sunny spot with good drainage when I get some of > the Hippeastrum x Johnsonii, all I have to do is find a nursery that has > them, will try Brent & Becky's first seems like one they would have. > > I am in the North Carolina mountains south west of Asheville. We are > definitely 7A-6B zone depending on how high up a mountain or down in a > hollow you are. I can't grow a lot of things that a mile away do > beautifully. Warm air rises so folks up hill can bloom Calla Lilies but I > can't keep them alive. I have learned a lot about air movement, temperature > and microclimates since I have lived here. > > By for now, > Anita R. > > On Fri, Mar 3, 2017 at 7:13 PM, Lakedees via pbs > wrote: > >> A little trick I have found is starting Rhodophiala seeds in spring and >> keep water >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Johannes Ulrich Urban >> To: Pacifib Bulb Society messages >> Sent: Fri, Mar 3, 2017 6:48 pm >> Subject: [pbs] Rhodophiala seed >> >> Hello Anita, >> >> Welcome to our society. You will find a lot of information, good seeds >> and bulbs and maybe even friends. I have been a member for a very long >> time and still find it very worth it. >> >> We have probably ordered the same Rhodophiala seed from one of the last >> BX, my seedlings look exactly like the ones you describe. This is how >> Rhodophiala seedlings look like, just one thin grass or chive like leaf. >> Rhodophiala is a winter growing bulb and will go dormant in summer. They >> flower in autumn before the leaves appear, the foliage will last through >> winter and needs frost free conditions and dormancy is induced by warm >> temperatures and lack of rain. It is good you mention that your >> background is a perennial plant propagator. Perennial plants need >> potting on even in a seedling stage to develop uniformly but bulb >> seedlings do not at all like that. Gesneriads are an exception and >> benefit from frequent potting on. What I do with these bulb seedlings: >> leave them in their original pot for at least one season, better two or >> even three seasons without repotting. Sometimes a first year old >> seedling will not go fully dormant like a mature bulb of the same >> species so in this case keep watering gently during "dormancy" If these >> seedlings go dormant their bulbs may be very tiny, mostly on the very >> bottom of the pot, and, if the pot would be in a sand plunge even under >> the pot in the sand. So don't plunge them. And use relatively deep pots. >> Bulbs may be so tiny that they can be missed when repotting. Most bulbs >> like to grow crowded, so not to worry about a densely populated pot. If >> you use plastic pots which I recommend because their moisture behaviour >> is much more stable than small clay pots you can feel growing bulbs >> bulding the pot. That would be a moment to repot. I repot my bulbs at >> the end of the dormant period so they can immediately start into growth. >> For seedlings it is best to try to keep them going as long as possible >> during their first season. Which means to avoid the stimulus for >> dormancy: too much heat, too bright sun and lack of water. Good light >> and even moisture without excess is the best recipe, Seedlings do >> benefit from careful low dose fertilizing. >> >> Are you sure about your hardiness zone? You describe a Hippeastrum in >> the neighbour's garden not a Rhodophiala. Hippeastrum are summer growing >> , spring flowering and winter dormant but not very frost hardy. If you >> have regular frost in your area, Rhodophiala is not the plant to grow in >> the open garden because the leaves would freeze during their growing >> period. Rhodophiala is perfect for mediterranean climate gardens. >> >> If you look or ask around in your neighbourhood, there might be more of >> those Hippeastrum you liked. In some parts of the world they are very >> popular garden bulbs. There is also an old hybrid called Hippeastrum X >> Johnsonii which is very nice and which is widely grown in some parts of >> the US. >> >> bye for today >> >> >> Uli >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: Light bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 11:45:32 -0700 Norton asked about supplemental lighting for sprouting bulb seedlings indoors. Technology is changing rapidly. In 5-10 years light growers will probably be using LED lights, with only a few holdouts. LED lights are more expensive to buy today, but less expensive over their lifespan when considering the lower electricity usage. I have read analyses suggesting the break-even point is 6 months to 2 years. Light gardeners have abandoned incandescent bulbs. They are inexpensive, but most of the electricity is wasted producing heat. The bulbs do not last long. High-pressure sodium lighting (HPS) is very expensive to buy, uses a lot of electricity, and produces the most heat of any lighting used for horticulture. The lamps are so hot a person would get a third-degree burn from a single touch lasting less than a second. Water on an illuminated lamp - like from a spray bottle - causes an explosion, showering near-molten glass all over the growing area. I would not recommend HPS to any home grower, under any circumstances, because of the heat danger. Much safer and equally effective alternatives exist. This kind of lamp was used for commercial indoor herb growing for years, but these growers have switched to other lighting. Different kinds of fluorescent lighting work well for growing plants, and have been standards for some years. Fluorescent grow lights will be replaced by LEDs over the next few years for reasons of efficiency and lifetime cost. Another problem with fluorescent lights is that they contain mercury, and LEDs contain little or none. Hobbyists used standard fluorescent tubes for years; compact fluorescent lights (CFL) also work well, and use less electricity. Most indoor fluorescent light growers choose long tubes because the fixtures fit better under shelves or over windowsills. Spiral fluorescent lights also work well. When a spiral lamp is used, the long axis of the spiral should point down at the plants, since spiral lamps are designed to emit more light along the axis rather than from the sides. All fluorescent lamps need to be replaced at least every 12 months. Their light output begins decreasing within 6 months, and most are down to 75% or less of the initial output by a year. The human eye does not see this, but the plants do. If you choose to use fluorescent lamps, write the date placed into service on the tube with an indelible marker, and replace every 9-12 months. Standard fluorescent lights are hot, but not as hot as an incandescent bulb. They will cause a burn but most people would remove their hand from the hot tube before serious injury. Long fluorescent tubes are labeled as to the size of the tube. Standard tubes are T8. They can work well for growing plants if wattage and color are chosen correctly. Higher-wattage tubes produce more light, and most people choose 40 Watt T8 tubes rather than 20 W. A very common fixture for light growers is sold as a shop light; it holds two, 4 foot / 122cm long T8 tubes. They are easy to suspend underneath shelves. Several can be plugged into a power strip, which can be plugged into a heavy-duty electric timer. Aquarium, terrarium and some plant growers often use high-output T5 tubes (T5HO), which produce more light for the electricity used than standard tubes. T5s are smaller in diameter than T8s and require different fixtures. High-output lamps require different fixtures than standard output. Many indoor growers buy T5HO aquarium light fixtures for their plant stands. The fixtures and tubes are more expensive than standard T8 fixtures and tubes, but when considering the cost of electricity over the life of the fixture they cost less to run than T8s. They are readily available at aquarium shops and online. T5HO fixtures come in different lengths, for different sizes of aquarium, so it may be easier to find a T5HO fixture to fit a small space as compared to T8 fixtures. T5HO tubes are hotter than standard T8 tubes. Fluorescent lights are available in different light colors, which is measured in degrees Kelvin (K.) This is a measure of how the light appears to the human eye, and has nothing to do with the actual Kelvin temperature scale. It also says nothing about the actual frequencies of photons making up the light. It turns out that fluorescent lights with a light color of 6,500 K are good for growing plants, so this is what most people buy. Some manufacturers refer to 6,500 K color temperature as "daylight", but others use "daylight" to refer to other color temperatures. Look for the number on the box or label. Other light colors alone are not as good for growing plants as are 6,500 K. Generally, there is no advantage to adding lamps with other light colors to lamps of 6,500 K. Aquarists can buy 10,000 K high-output T5s, which provide brilliant white light. But, plants don't grow very well under this; it is designed for corals. Many T5HO fixtures are sold with 10,000 K and actinic blue tubes, neither of which works well for plants, so it is better to buy a fixture and tubes separately. LED lights of color temperature 6,500 K are not necessarily the best for growing plants, The usefulness of 6,500 K color temperature applies only to fluorescent lights. Compact fluorescent lamps use less electricity for the light output compared to standard fluorescents, so many light growers are switching. 4 foot long CFL tubes fit into some standard 4-foot, 2-tube fixtures, but not all. Some CFL tubes are made to fit into older fixtures, and other need fixtures specifically for CFL tubes. Most spiral CFL lamps fit into older standard socket fixtures. The least-expensive solution if CFL is chosen would be standard 4 foot long shop fixtures, each holding two CFL tubes. Choose 6,500 K color temperature, and the highest Wattage available. Until recently indoor commercial growers used CFL lamps of 6,500 K color temperature at the highest Wattage they could get. LED (Light-Emitting Diode) lighting is still being developed and perfected. Until recently attention was placed on light for human use, and not much on plant growth. So, most knowledge of how LED lighting works for plants has been trial-and-error. LEDs last perhaps 3-5 years when used 12 hours per day. They are more expensive to buy, but use much less electricity than other lamps. Over their life they are less expensive to run. Individual LEDs emit only certain wavelengths of light, and multiple wavelength LEDs are combined to give the desired light color as seen by the eye. Individual LEDs are rectangles about 2 millimeters square. Multiple LEDs are wired into strips or rectangular arrays, and a protective covering usually put over them, to form lamps. LED lamps are available as flexible linear strips, lamps resembling fluorescent tubes, and lamps resembling incandescent bulbs. The tube-like LED lamps require their own fixtures and generally cannot be used in older fluorescent fixtures. The standard-socket LED light bulbs can be fit into older sockets. At first growers tried to match LED wavelength emitted to the known maximum absorption peaks of chlorophyll, which produced ghastly-looking pink and blue light. It has since been realized chlorophyll absorbs and uses other wavelengths quite well, so these pink and blue LEDs are now considered unnecessary. The idea of a "good" LED lamp for plants includes whether proper wavelength photos are emitted. You will read of`a measurement called PAR, photosynthetically active radiation. This measures what proportion of the photons emitted by the LEDs are used by the plants. Recall color temperature measures how the light looks to the human eye. Different combinations of light wavelength can yield what we think is white light. LED color temperature has not been found useful for deciding which lamp to use on plants, so don't go looking for 6,500 K LED lamps. People are also concerned with how many photons are emitted for the electricity input (efficiency.) Not many smaller LED lamps have been designed specifically for plants, so it can be difficult to choose. However, by trial and error, people have reported some lamps work well. In general, most bright white lamps produce acceptable growth. An LED shop light Home Depot sells has been found to work well: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-25-Watt-White-LED-Chain-Mount- Shoplight-1290L/204378710 as have various LED light bulbs designed to be screwed into desk lamp sockets. Commercial indoor growers are switching to LED arrays: http://www.thegrowshopllc.com/neosol-ds-520w-led-plant-grow-luminaire-48/ and plasma lighting http://www.thegrowshopllc.com/gavita-pro-300-light-emitting-plasma-02-ac-lep/ but these are for very valuable crops. So, for Norton... Can you buy in Peru standard T8 fluorescent light tubes and fixtures with 6,500 K color temperature ("daylight"), 20 or 40 Watt? (40W is better.) We know those work well, and will not require importing. This would be your simplest solution. Tubes must be changed once per year. Or, can you buy in Peru T5HO intended for aquariums, with color temperature 6,500 K? Those work well and are more efficient than standard T8. The tubes must be changed once a year. It is hard to carry long, fragile objects on airplanes. Imported CFL tubes only last a year. Imported LED lights will last 3-5 years. People could bring you this light from the US, since it is know to work for plants. It is not as fragile as are fluorescent tubes: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-25-Watt-White-LED-Chain-Mount- Shoplight-1290L/204378710 They could also bring you a T5HO aquarium fixture from the US, perhaps with some replacement 6,500 K bulbs. Again, these are long and fragile. Of course, there is no way to tell what will be available in 3-5 years. Leo Martin Zone 9? Phoenix Arizona USA From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Cynthia Mueller Subject: Rhodophiala temperatures Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 19:16:22 +0000 The parent plants of seeds I sent to the Seed list this year were several varieties of R. bifida. They did not lose their leaves during our first freeze of 24f for one night. Then, about three weeks later Central Texas had a cold sweep with about three nights and three days of cold between 22 and 24f. This killed many succulents, hippeastrum in pots above ground, agaves, ornamental cactus and opuntias. The difference was, I believe, that the cold lasted for a longer time. The Rhodophiala are still up, as though nothing had happened. Of course, every freeze event is different. -Cynthia Mueller Cynthia W Mueller From anitaroselle@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Light bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 15:21:41 -0500 Leo, I want to thank you for all the information on electric lighting. I used lights years ago when the best was 2 different fluorescent bulbs in a 2 bulb fixture. I now wish to put some light on my african violets that do not get enough light in the winter to bloom. I have been befuddled about what to buy as there are so many choices, perhaps all of which I know nothing about. You have spelled out for us what the different options are and what they do. I now know what I need to look for and be confident that I am getting the best light at the best cost. I will look for a 2' compact fluorescent fixture with a single high-output T5 bulb. This is at the window over my kitchen sink and I don't like the weird light I have now. I did purchase from Amazon a clip on light, I wanted the clip, that has a whole lot of small bulbs of different colors, I think red and blue, are they LED's? They get the plants to bloom but the color is such that the blooms to peoples eyes are not true to their real color, in fact they look weird. Thank again, Anita R. On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 1:45 PM, Leo Martin wrote: > Norton asked about supplemental lighting for sprouting bulb seedlings > indoors. > > Technology is changing rapidly. In 5-10 years light growers will probably > be using LED lights, with only a few holdouts. LED lights are more > expensive to buy today, but less expensive over their lifespan when > considering the lower electricity usage. I have read analyses suggesting > the break-even point is 6 months to 2 years. > > Light gardeners have abandoned incandescent bulbs. They are inexpensive, > but most of the electricity is wasted producing heat. The bulbs do not last > long. > > High-pressure sodium lighting (HPS) is very expensive to buy, uses a lot of > electricity, and produces the most heat of any lighting used for > horticulture. The lamps are so hot a person would get a third-degree burn > from a single touch lasting less than a second. Water on an illuminated > lamp - like from a spray bottle - causes an explosion, showering > near-molten glass all over the growing area. I would not recommend HPS to > any home grower, under any circumstances, because of the heat danger. Much > safer and equally effective alternatives exist. This kind of lamp was used > for commercial indoor herb growing for years, but these growers have > switched to other lighting. > > Different kinds of fluorescent lighting work well for growing plants, and > have been standards for some years. Fluorescent grow lights will be > replaced by LEDs over the next few years for reasons of efficiency and > lifetime cost. Another problem with fluorescent lights is that they contain > mercury, and LEDs contain little or none. > > Hobbyists used standard fluorescent tubes for years; compact fluorescent > lights (CFL) also work well, and use less electricity. Most indoor > fluorescent light growers choose long tubes because the fixtures fit better > under shelves or over windowsills. Spiral fluorescent lights also work > well. When a spiral lamp is used, the long axis of the spiral should point > down at the plants, since spiral lamps are designed to emit more light > along the axis rather than from the sides. All fluorescent lamps need to be > replaced at least every 12 months. Their light output begins decreasing > within 6 months, and most are down to 75% or less of the initial output by > a year. The human eye does not see this, but the plants do. If you choose > to use fluorescent lamps, write the date placed into service on the tube > with an indelible marker, and replace every 9-12 months. Standard > fluorescent lights are hot, but not as hot as an incandescent bulb. They > will cause a burn but most people would remove their hand from the hot tube > before serious injury. > > Long fluorescent tubes are labeled as to the size of the tube. Standard > tubes are T8. They can work well for growing plants if wattage and color > are chosen correctly. Higher-wattage tubes produce more light, and most > people choose 40 Watt T8 tubes rather than 20 W. A very common fixture for > light growers is sold as a shop light; it holds two, 4 foot / 122cm long T8 > tubes. They are easy to suspend underneath shelves. Several can be plugged > into a power strip, which can be plugged into a heavy-duty electric timer. > > Aquarium, terrarium and some plant growers often use high-output T5 tubes > (T5HO), which produce more light for the electricity used than standard > tubes. T5s are smaller in diameter than T8s and require different fixtures. > High-output lamps require different fixtures than standard output. Many > indoor growers buy T5HO aquarium light fixtures for their plant stands. The > fixtures and tubes are more expensive than standard T8 fixtures and tubes, > but when considering the cost of electricity over the life of the fixture > they cost less to run than T8s. They are readily available at aquarium > shops and online. T5HO fixtures come in different lengths, for different > sizes of aquarium, so it may be easier to find a T5HO fixture to fit a > small space as compared to T8 fixtures. T5HO tubes are hotter than standard > T8 tubes. > > Fluorescent lights are available in different light colors, which is > measured in degrees Kelvin (K.) This is a measure of how the light appears > to the human eye, and has nothing to do with the actual Kelvin temperature > scale. It also says nothing about the actual frequencies of photons making > up the light. It turns out that fluorescent lights with a light color of > 6,500 K are good for growing plants, so this is what most people buy. Some > manufacturers refer to 6,500 K color temperature as "daylight", but others > use "daylight" to refer to other color temperatures. Look for the number on > the box or label. Other light colors alone are not as good for growing > plants as are 6,500 K. Generally, there is no advantage to adding lamps > with other light colors to lamps of 6,500 K. Aquarists can buy 10,000 K > high-output T5s, which provide brilliant white light. But, plants don't > grow very well under this; it is designed for corals. Many T5HO fixtures > are sold with 10,000 K and actinic blue tubes, neither of which works well > for plants, so it is better to buy a fixture and tubes separately. > > LED lights of color temperature 6,500 K are not necessarily the best for > growing plants, The usefulness of 6,500 K color temperature applies only to > fluorescent lights. > > Compact fluorescent lamps use less electricity for the light output > compared to standard fluorescents, so many light growers are switching. 4 > foot long CFL tubes fit into some standard 4-foot, 2-tube fixtures, but not > all. Some CFL tubes are made to fit into older fixtures, and other need > fixtures specifically for CFL tubes. Most spiral CFL lamps fit into older > standard socket fixtures. The least-expensive solution if CFL is chosen > would be standard 4 foot long shop fixtures, each holding two CFL tubes. > Choose 6,500 K color temperature, and the highest Wattage available. Until > recently indoor commercial growers used CFL lamps of 6,500 K color > temperature at the highest Wattage they could get. > > LED (Light-Emitting Diode) lighting is still being developed and perfected. > Until recently attention was placed on light for human use, and not much on > plant growth. So, most knowledge of how LED lighting works for plants has > been trial-and-error. LEDs last perhaps 3-5 years when used 12 hours per > day. They are more expensive to buy, but use much less electricity than > other lamps. Over their life they are less expensive to run. > > Individual LEDs emit only certain wavelengths of light, and multiple > wavelength LEDs are combined to give the desired light color as seen by the > eye. Individual LEDs are rectangles about 2 millimeters square. Multiple > LEDs are wired into strips or rectangular arrays, and a protective covering > usually put over them, to form lamps. LED lamps are available as flexible > linear strips, lamps resembling fluorescent tubes, and lamps resembling > incandescent bulbs. The tube-like LED lamps require their own fixtures and > generally cannot be used in older fluorescent fixtures. The standard-socket > LED light bulbs can be fit into older sockets. > > At first growers tried to match LED wavelength emitted to the known maximum > absorption peaks of chlorophyll, which produced ghastly-looking pink and > blue light. It has since been realized chlorophyll absorbs and uses other > wavelengths quite well, so these pink and blue LEDs are now considered > unnecessary. The idea of a "good" LED lamp for plants includes whether > proper wavelength photos are emitted. You will read of`a measurement called > PAR, photosynthetically active radiation. This measures what proportion of > the photons emitted by the LEDs are used by the plants. Recall color > temperature measures how the light looks to the human eye. Different > combinations of light wavelength can yield what we think is white light. > LED color temperature has not been found useful for deciding which lamp to > use on plants, so don't go looking for 6,500 K LED lamps. People are also > concerned with how many photons are emitted for the electricity input > (efficiency.) > > Not many smaller LED lamps have been designed specifically for plants, so > it can be difficult to choose. However, by trial and error, people have > reported some lamps work well. In general, most bright white lamps produce > acceptable growth. An LED shop light Home Depot sells has been found to > work well: > http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-25-Watt- > White-LED-Chain-Mount- > Shoplight-1290L/204378710 > as have various LED light bulbs designed to be screwed into desk lamp > sockets. > > Commercial indoor growers are switching to LED arrays: > http://www.thegrowshopllc.com/neosol-ds-520w-led-plant-grow-luminaire-48/ > and plasma lighting > http://www.thegrowshopllc.com/gavita-pro-300-light-emitting- > plasma-02-ac-lep/ > but these are for very valuable crops. > > So, for Norton... Can you buy in Peru standard T8 fluorescent light tubes > and fixtures with 6,500 K color temperature ("daylight"), 20 or 40 Watt? > (40W is better.) We know those work well, and will not require importing. > This would be your simplest solution. Tubes must be changed once per year. > > Or, can you buy in Peru T5HO intended for aquariums, with color temperature > 6,500 K? Those work well and are more efficient than standard T8. The tubes > must be changed once a year. > > It is hard to carry long, fragile objects on airplanes. Imported CFL tubes > only last a year. Imported LED lights will last 3-5 years. > > People could bring you this light from the US, since it is know to work for > plants. It is not as fragile as are fluorescent tubes: > http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-25-Watt- > White-LED-Chain-Mount- > Shoplight-1290L/204378710 > > They could also bring you a T5HO aquarium fixture from the US, perhaps with > some replacement 6,500 K bulbs. Again, these are long and fragile. > > Of course, there is no way to tell what will be available in 3-5 years. > > Leo Martin > Zone 9? > Phoenix Arizona USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From garak@code-garak.de Sun, 05 Mar 2017 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Garak Subject: Light bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 21:39:53 +0100 Hi, I can confirm the the 3 wavelength LED (Red, orange, blue) are quite effective for plant growth, e.g. tomatoes stay compact and freesias grow buds - I've yet to find a plant that is not compatible. I agree that those are too irritating for a living room or for enjoying flowers, but they do work well for seedlings in my study room next to the computer, and for those plants that need light over winter in a small side chamber. for me, they are the winner for price-performance ratio plus they seem realtively safe since they are "cold". Martin Am 05.03.2017 um 21:21 schrieb Anita Roselle: > Leo, I want to thank you for all the information on electric lighting. > > I used lights years ago when the best was 2 different fluorescent bulbs in > a 2 bulb fixture. I now wish to put some light on my african violets that > do not get enough light in the winter to bloom. I have been befuddled about > what to buy as there are so many choices, perhaps all of which I know > nothing about. You have spelled out for us what the different options are > and what they do. I now know what I need to look for and be confident that > I am getting the best light at the best cost. I will look for a 2' compact > fluorescent fixture with a single high-output T5 bulb. This is at the > window over my kitchen sink and I don't like the weird light I have now. > I did purchase from Amazon a clip on light, I wanted the clip, that has a > whole lot of small bulbs of different colors, I think red and blue, are > they LED's? They get the plants to bloom but the color is such that the > blooms to peoples eyes are not true to their real color, in fact they look > weird. > > Thank again, > Anita R. > > On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 1:45 PM, Leo Martin wrote: > >> Norton asked about supplemental lighting for sprouting bulb seedlings >> indoors. >> >> Technology is changing rapidly. In 5-10 years light growers will probably >> be using LED lights, with only a few holdouts. LED lights are more >> expensive to buy today, but less expensive over their lifespan when >> considering the lower electricity usage. I have read analyses suggesting >> the break-even point is 6 months to 2 years. >> >> Light gardeners have abandoned incandescent bulbs. They are inexpensive, >> but most of the electricity is wasted producing heat. The bulbs do not last >> long. >> >> High-pressure sodium lighting (HPS) is very expensive to buy, uses a lot of >> electricity, and produces the most heat of any lighting used for >> horticulture. The lamps are so hot a person would get a third-degree burn >> from a single touch lasting less than a second. Water on an illuminated >> lamp - like from a spray bottle - causes an explosion, showering >> near-molten glass all over the growing area. I would not recommend HPS to >> any home grower, under any circumstances, because of the heat danger. Much >> safer and equally effective alternatives exist. This kind of lamp was used >> for commercial indoor herb growing for years, but these growers have >> switched to other lighting. >> >> Different kinds of fluorescent lighting work well for growing plants, and >> have been standards for some years. Fluorescent grow lights will be >> replaced by LEDs over the next few years for reasons of efficiency and >> lifetime cost. Another problem with fluorescent lights is that they contain >> mercury, and LEDs contain little or none. >> >> Hobbyists used standard fluorescent tubes for years; compact fluorescent >> lights (CFL) also work well, and use less electricity. Most indoor >> fluorescent light growers choose long tubes because the fixtures fit better >> under shelves or over windowsills. Spiral fluorescent lights also work >> well. When a spiral lamp is used, the long axis of the spiral should point >> down at the plants, since spiral lamps are designed to emit more light >> along the axis rather than from the sides. All fluorescent lamps need to be >> replaced at least every 12 months. Their light output begins decreasing >> within 6 months, and most are down to 75% or less of the initial output by >> a year. The human eye does not see this, but the plants do. If you choose >> to use fluorescent lamps, write the date placed into service on the tube >> with an indelible marker, and replace every 9-12 months. Standard >> fluorescent lights are hot, but not as hot as an incandescent bulb. They >> will cause a burn but most people would remove their hand from the hot tube >> before serious injury. >> >> Long fluorescent tubes are labeled as to the size of the tube. Standard >> tubes are T8. They can work well for growing plants if wattage and color >> are chosen correctly. Higher-wattage tubes produce more light, and most >> people choose 40 Watt T8 tubes rather than 20 W. A very common fixture for >> light growers is sold as a shop light; it holds two, 4 foot / 122cm long T8 >> tubes. They are easy to suspend underneath shelves. Several can be plugged >> into a power strip, which can be plugged into a heavy-duty electric timer. >> >> Aquarium, terrarium and some plant growers often use high-output T5 tubes >> (T5HO), which produce more light for the electricity used than standard >> tubes. T5s are smaller in diameter than T8s and require different fixtures. >> High-output lamps require different fixtures than standard output. Many >> indoor growers buy T5HO aquarium light fixtures for their plant stands. The >> fixtures and tubes are more expensive than standard T8 fixtures and tubes, >> but when considering the cost of electricity over the life of the fixture >> they cost less to run than T8s. They are readily available at aquarium >> shops and online. T5HO fixtures come in different lengths, for different >> sizes of aquarium, so it may be easier to find a T5HO fixture to fit a >> small space as compared to T8 fixtures. T5HO tubes are hotter than standard >> T8 tubes. >> >> Fluorescent lights are available in different light colors, which is >> measured in degrees Kelvin (K.) This is a measure of how the light appears >> to the human eye, and has nothing to do with the actual Kelvin temperature >> scale. It also says nothing about the actual frequencies of photons making >> up the light. It turns out that fluorescent lights with a light color of >> 6,500 K are good for growing plants, so this is what most people buy. Some >> manufacturers refer to 6,500 K color temperature as "daylight", but others >> use "daylight" to refer to other color temperatures. Look for the number on >> the box or label. Other light colors alone are not as good for growing >> plants as are 6,500 K. Generally, there is no advantage to adding lamps >> with other light colors to lamps of 6,500 K. Aquarists can buy 10,000 K >> high-output T5s, which provide brilliant white light. But, plants don't >> grow very well under this; it is designed for corals. Many T5HO fixtures >> are sold with 10,000 K and actinic blue tubes, neither of which works well >> for plants, so it is better to buy a fixture and tubes separately. >> >> LED lights of color temperature 6,500 K are not necessarily the best for >> growing plants, The usefulness of 6,500 K color temperature applies only to >> fluorescent lights. >> >> Compact fluorescent lamps use less electricity for the light output >> compared to standard fluorescents, so many light growers are switching. 4 >> foot long CFL tubes fit into some standard 4-foot, 2-tube fixtures, but not >> all. Some CFL tubes are made to fit into older fixtures, and other need >> fixtures specifically for CFL tubes. Most spiral CFL lamps fit into older >> standard socket fixtures. The least-expensive solution if CFL is chosen >> would be standard 4 foot long shop fixtures, each holding two CFL tubes. >> Choose 6,500 K color temperature, and the highest Wattage available. Until >> recently indoor commercial growers used CFL lamps of 6,500 K color >> temperature at the highest Wattage they could get. >> >> LED (Light-Emitting Diode) lighting is still being developed and perfected. >> Until recently attention was placed on light for human use, and not much on >> plant growth. So, most knowledge of how LED lighting works for plants has >> been trial-and-error. LEDs last perhaps 3-5 years when used 12 hours per >> day. They are more expensive to buy, but use much less electricity than >> other lamps. Over their life they are less expensive to run. >> >> Individual LEDs emit only certain wavelengths of light, and multiple >> wavelength LEDs are combined to give the desired light color as seen by the >> eye. Individual LEDs are rectangles about 2 millimeters square. Multiple >> LEDs are wired into strips or rectangular arrays, and a protective covering >> usually put over them, to form lamps. LED lamps are available as flexible >> linear strips, lamps resembling fluorescent tubes, and lamps resembling >> incandescent bulbs. The tube-like LED lamps require their own fixtures and >> generally cannot be used in older fluorescent fixtures. The standard-socket >> LED light bulbs can be fit into older sockets. >> >> At first growers tried to match LED wavelength emitted to the known maximum >> absorption peaks of chlorophyll, which produced ghastly-looking pink and >> blue light. It has since been realized chlorophyll absorbs and uses other >> wavelengths quite well, so these pink and blue LEDs are now considered >> unnecessary. The idea of a "good" LED lamp for plants includes whether >> proper wavelength photos are emitted. You will read of`a measurement called >> PAR, photosynthetically active radiation. This measures what proportion of >> the photons emitted by the LEDs are used by the plants. Recall color >> temperature measures how the light looks to the human eye. Different >> combinations of light wavelength can yield what we think is white light. >> LED color temperature has not been found useful for deciding which lamp to >> use on plants, so don't go looking for 6,500 K LED lamps. People are also >> concerned with how many photons are emitted for the electricity input >> (efficiency.) >> >> Not many smaller LED lamps have been designed specifically for plants, so >> it can be difficult to choose. However, by trial and error, people have >> reported some lamps work well. In general, most bright white lamps produce >> acceptable growth. An LED shop light Home Depot sells has been found to >> work well: >> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-25-Watt- >> White-LED-Chain-Mount- >> Shoplight-1290L/204378710 >> as have various LED light bulbs designed to be screwed into desk lamp >> sockets. >> >> Commercial indoor growers are switching to LED arrays: >> http://www.thegrowshopllc.com/neosol-ds-520w-led-plant-grow-luminaire-48/ >> and plasma lighting >> http://www.thegrowshopllc.com/gavita-pro-300-light-emitting- >> plasma-02-ac-lep/ >> but these are for very valuable crops. >> >> So, for Norton... Can you buy in Peru standard T8 fluorescent light tubes >> and fixtures with 6,500 K color temperature ("daylight"), 20 or 40 Watt? >> (40W is better.) We know those work well, and will not require importing. >> This would be your simplest solution. Tubes must be changed once per year. >> >> Or, can you buy in Peru T5HO intended for aquariums, with color temperature >> 6,500 K? Those work well and are more efficient than standard T8. The tubes >> must be changed once a year. >> >> It is hard to carry long, fragile objects on airplanes. Imported CFL tubes >> only last a year. Imported LED lights will last 3-5 years. >> >> People could bring you this light from the US, since it is know to work for >> plants. It is not as fragile as are fluorescent tubes: >> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-25-Watt- >> White-LED-Chain-Mount- >> Shoplight-1290L/204378710 >> >> They could also bring you a T5HO aquarium fixture from the US, perhaps with >> some replacement 6,500 K bulbs. Again, these are long and fragile. >> >> Of course, there is no way to tell what will be available in 3-5 years. >> >> Leo Martin >> Zone 9? >> Phoenix Arizona USA >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- Martin ---------------------------------------------- Southern Germany Likely zone 7a From mikerumm@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mike Rummerfield Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 4 Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 12:49:48 -0800 RE: grow lights The link on grow lights that Johnathan provided is very useful, but most of the lights on the link are *very* pricey. For smaller budgets, I bought two LED grow-lights for $50.00 each at a big box store. Still not inexpensive. It is the FEIT; model 74302; 2ft LED Plant Grow Light/Blue Spectrum Enriched For Vegetative Growth. There is also a model to promote blooming. It may be too small for many applications, but is working well for me on my Clivia and Cryptostephanus seedlings. It is of a size that might be more manageable to travel with - cardboard carton size, 5 1/2" X 2" X 25 1/2". Could not find wattage info. A Note: on this model, the wire hanging ports must somehow be taped over to exclude insects from entering and dying in the light tube, therefore decreasing efficiency. Surprisingly, this was the solution offered by the manufacturer (disassembly negates 3 yr. warranty). Good luck in finding what you need, Norton. Regards, Mike On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 6:20 AM, Jonathan Knisely wrote: > There are a number of approaches to the use of lights. Fluorescent tubes > that were fabricated to provide the appropriate spectrum of light for > indoor growing of plants are less commonly seen, though still available. I > am unsure whether or not the standard lengths that might be used in North > America will fit the fixtures (and voltages) for you, Norton. > > More recently, the LED technological advances have resulted in a large > number of devices being fabricated, primarily, I suspect, for assisting > those who wish to furtively cultivate marijuana indoors. > > Below is a link to a website that provided a ranking of a variety of LED > products. One of the products reviewed might be ideal for your windowsill > bulb-raising. The timing of getting it (i.e. you don't want to pay for > something that is out of stock and only able to be delivered a month after > your family member leaves the United States) is worth considering. Some of > these may not be too expensive to have directly shipped to you in Peru (as > they aren't like our classic conception of fragile light bulbs)! > > https://goo.gl/g5rc5N > > Jonathan Knisely > New Haven, CT (where we have Eranthis, Galanthus, and Crocus tommasinianus > up and blooming so far) > USDA 6a > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 4 > > Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 00:49:51 +0000 > > From: norton cuba melly > > To: Pacific Bulb Society > > Subject: [pbs] Light bulbs > > Message-ID: > > > namprd08.prod.outlook.com> > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > Hello everyone, > > I want to ask about light bulbs for plants, since I dont have a backyard > I > > only have my plants expose to sunlight in a windowsill, that can reduce > > posibilities of forming an strong bulb . But i wanted to know if any of > you > > can advice me a brand of a light bulb that offers full spectrum for plant > > growth. I have a family member traveling to the US ??, so if anyone that > > lives there can tell me where to buy, what brand, how much watts... ? It > > would be helpful > > Thanks if you can help me > > > > Best regards > > Norton > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From garak@code-garak.de Sun, 05 Mar 2017 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Garak Subject: Rhodophiala temperatures Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 21:53:04 +0100 My rhodophiala bifida (from Lauw deJaeger) tolerated 2.5 weeks of perma-frost with several nights at -14°C under 5cm snow cover this January, foliage looks unharmed, so they seem to be able to take a lot. As for Rhodophiala seedlings: I've got montana, splendens and andicola, and none of them stopped growth in summer as long as they got enough water -I've read somewhere (on the list?) that they are quite opportunistic in their growth pattern, and that seems quite true to me - but don't ask me about cold tolerance on those three species, i kept them (barely) frost free as a precaution. Martin Am 05.03.2017 um 20:16 schrieb Cynthia Mueller: > The parent plants of seeds I sent to the Seed list this year were several varieties of R. bifida. They did not lose their leaves during our first freeze of 24f for one night. Then, about three weeks later Central Texas had a cold sweep with about three nights and three days of cold between 22 and 24f. This killed many succulents, hippeastrum in pots above ground, agaves, ornamental cactus and opuntias. The difference was, I believe, that the cold lasted for a longer time. The Rhodophiala are still up, as though nothing had happened. Of course, every freeze event is different. -Cynthia Mueller > > Cynthia W Mueller > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- Martin ---------------------------------------------- Southern Germany Likely zone 7a From kathleen.sayce@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 23:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <30FDAE25-8109-4BAA-BD2F-0D2C6516CBF8@gmail.com> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: light bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 13:25:57 -0800 LEDs are now the lighting standard for marijuana growers. They are full spectrum, spring daylight bright, and very energy efficient. Growing and consuming marijuana is presently legal in my state (Washington), and it’s been very interesting to watch the growers refine their soil media and lighting for indoor operations over the past couple of years. If this works for marijuana, it should work for bulbs. Kathleen _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: Light bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 14:59:58 -0700 > > ...I will look for a 2' compact > fluorescent fixture with a single high-output T5 bulb. This is at the > window over my kitchen sink and I don't like the weird light I have now. > I did purchase from Amazon a clip on light, I wanted the clip, that has a > whole lot of small bulbs of different colors, I think red and blue, are > they LED's? They get the plants to bloom but the color is such that the > blooms to peoples eyes are not true to their real color, in fact they look > weird. > I must not have been clear. T5 refers to a particular size of older technology cylindric fluorescent tubes. I didn't mention what the T numbers represent because most of the world uses SI measurements. The number after the T in measuring fluorescent lights refers to the diameter of the cylinder in eighths of an inch. A T5 is 5/8 inch in diameter; a T8 is 8/8 or 1 inch in diameter. Compact fluorescent lights (CFL) aren't measured by the diameter of the tube, so anything with a T number is an older technology fluorescent tube, not a CFL. There are standard output T5 lights and also high-output T5 lights. People using them for grow lights use high-output T5s. They are not compact fluorescent tubes, which is newer technology than T5s. People do look for 6,500 K color temperature with both T5 and CFL. You are unlikely to find T5HO bulbs at hardware stores, since they are not much used for lighting buildings. Your pink and blue light is an LED light, and was designed in the era when it was thought the light emitted should be at the chlorophyll maximum absorption peaks. But this is no longer considered very important. It still works fine, however. Many people who don't like the look use them in a growing area away from the main part of the house. ...two LED grow-lights for $50.00 each at a big box store. Still not > inexpensive. It is the FEIT; model 74302; 2ft LED Plant Grow Light/Blue > Spectrum Enriched For Vegetative Growth. There is also a model to promote > blooming. It may be too small for many applications, > To be clear, these pink and blue plant lights are probably not better for the plants than the much less expensive bright white LED lights sold for normal lighting use. This size "grow" lamp covers a small area and is very expensive compared to a standard white LED lamps sold for reading books, which probably will do almost as well growing plants as the $50 lamp. The 4 foot long LED shop light I mentioned in the earlier message probably covers more area than this pink/blue 2' light and is around $35. Leo Martin Zone 9? Phoenix Arizona USA From anitaroselle@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 15:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Light bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 17:47:03 -0500 Martin, I agree if I was growing tomatoes or seedlings that I wanted to stay compact I would use them, just where they are not in front of my eyes at the kitchen sink or in the living room. That is interesting that they stimulate buds on freesias. I did not mean to say they were not effective. I am new to this forum, I'a a long time plant person just now getting interested in more bulbs. I have a greenhouse so most things are out there and only a few in the house. On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 3:39 PM, Garak wrote: > Hi, > > I can confirm the the 3 wavelength LED (Red, orange, blue) are quite > effective for plant growth, e.g. tomatoes stay compact and freesias grow > buds - I've yet to find a plant that is not compatible. I agree that those > are too irritating for a living room or for enjoying flowers, but they do > work well for seedlings in my study room next to the computer, and for > those plants that need light over winter in a small side chamber. for me, > they are the winner for price-performance ratio plus they seem realtively > safe since they are "cold". > Martin > > > > Am 05.03.2017 um 21:21 schrieb Anita Roselle: > >> Leo, I want to thank you for all the information on electric lighting. >> >> I used lights years ago when the best was 2 different fluorescent bulbs in >> a 2 bulb fixture. I now wish to put some light on my african violets that >> do not get enough light in the winter to bloom. I have been befuddled >> about >> what to buy as there are so many choices, perhaps all of which I know >> nothing about. You have spelled out for us what the different options are >> and what they do. I now know what I need to look for and be confident that >> I am getting the best light at the best cost. I will look for a 2' compact >> fluorescent fixture with a single high-output T5 bulb. This is at the >> window over my kitchen sink and I don't like the weird light I have now. >> I did purchase from Amazon a clip on light, I wanted the clip, that has a >> whole lot of small bulbs of different colors, I think red and blue, are >> they LED's? They get the plants to bloom but the color is such that the >> blooms to peoples eyes are not true to their real color, in fact they look >> weird. >> >> Thank again, >> Anita R. >> >> On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 1:45 PM, Leo Martin wrote: >> >> Norton asked about supplemental lighting for sprouting bulb seedlings >>> indoors. >>> >>> Technology is changing rapidly. In 5-10 years light growers will probably >>> be using LED lights, with only a few holdouts. LED lights are more >>> expensive to buy today, but less expensive over their lifespan when >>> considering the lower electricity usage. I have read analyses suggesting >>> the break-even point is 6 months to 2 years. >>> >>> Light gardeners have abandoned incandescent bulbs. They are inexpensive, >>> but most of the electricity is wasted producing heat. The bulbs do not >>> last >>> long. >>> >>> High-pressure sodium lighting (HPS) is very expensive to buy, uses a lot >>> of >>> electricity, and produces the most heat of any lighting used for >>> horticulture. The lamps are so hot a person would get a third-degree burn >>> from a single touch lasting less than a second. Water on an illuminated >>> lamp - like from a spray bottle - causes an explosion, showering >>> near-molten glass all over the growing area. I would not recommend HPS to >>> any home grower, under any circumstances, because of the heat danger. >>> Much >>> safer and equally effective alternatives exist. This kind of lamp was >>> used >>> for commercial indoor herb growing for years, but these growers have >>> switched to other lighting. >>> >>> Different kinds of fluorescent lighting work well for growing plants, and >>> have been standards for some years. Fluorescent grow lights will be >>> replaced by LEDs over the next few years for reasons of efficiency and >>> lifetime cost. Another problem with fluorescent lights is that they >>> contain >>> mercury, and LEDs contain little or none. >>> >>> Hobbyists used standard fluorescent tubes for years; compact fluorescent >>> lights (CFL) also work well, and use less electricity. Most indoor >>> fluorescent light growers choose long tubes because the fixtures fit >>> better >>> under shelves or over windowsills. Spiral fluorescent lights also work >>> well. When a spiral lamp is used, the long axis of the spiral should >>> point >>> down at the plants, since spiral lamps are designed to emit more light >>> along the axis rather than from the sides. All fluorescent lamps need to >>> be >>> replaced at least every 12 months. Their light output begins decreasing >>> within 6 months, and most are down to 75% or less of the initial output >>> by >>> a year. The human eye does not see this, but the plants do. If you choose >>> to use fluorescent lamps, write the date placed into service on the tube >>> with an indelible marker, and replace every 9-12 months. Standard >>> fluorescent lights are hot, but not as hot as an incandescent bulb. They >>> will cause a burn but most people would remove their hand from the hot >>> tube >>> before serious injury. >>> >>> Long fluorescent tubes are labeled as to the size of the tube. Standard >>> tubes are T8. They can work well for growing plants if wattage and color >>> are chosen correctly. Higher-wattage tubes produce more light, and most >>> people choose 40 Watt T8 tubes rather than 20 W. A very common fixture >>> for >>> light growers is sold as a shop light; it holds two, 4 foot / 122cm long >>> T8 >>> tubes. They are easy to suspend underneath shelves. Several can be >>> plugged >>> into a power strip, which can be plugged into a heavy-duty electric >>> timer. >>> >>> Aquarium, terrarium and some plant growers often use high-output T5 tubes >>> (T5HO), which produce more light for the electricity used than standard >>> tubes. T5s are smaller in diameter than T8s and require different >>> fixtures. >>> High-output lamps require different fixtures than standard output. Many >>> indoor growers buy T5HO aquarium light fixtures for their plant stands. >>> The >>> fixtures and tubes are more expensive than standard T8 fixtures and >>> tubes, >>> but when considering the cost of electricity over the life of the fixture >>> they cost less to run than T8s. They are readily available at aquarium >>> shops and online. T5HO fixtures come in different lengths, for different >>> sizes of aquarium, so it may be easier to find a T5HO fixture to fit a >>> small space as compared to T8 fixtures. T5HO tubes are hotter than >>> standard >>> T8 tubes. >>> >>> Fluorescent lights are available in different light colors, which is >>> measured in degrees Kelvin (K.) This is a measure of how the light >>> appears >>> to the human eye, and has nothing to do with the actual Kelvin >>> temperature >>> scale. It also says nothing about the actual frequencies of photons >>> making >>> up the light. It turns out that fluorescent lights with a light color of >>> 6,500 K are good for growing plants, so this is what most people buy. >>> Some >>> manufacturers refer to 6,500 K color temperature as "daylight", but >>> others >>> use "daylight" to refer to other color temperatures. Look for the number >>> on >>> the box or label. Other light colors alone are not as good for growing >>> plants as are 6,500 K. Generally, there is no advantage to adding lamps >>> with other light colors to lamps of 6,500 K. Aquarists can buy 10,000 K >>> high-output T5s, which provide brilliant white light. But, plants don't >>> grow very well under this; it is designed for corals. Many T5HO fixtures >>> are sold with 10,000 K and actinic blue tubes, neither of which works >>> well >>> for plants, so it is better to buy a fixture and tubes separately. >>> >>> LED lights of color temperature 6,500 K are not necessarily the best for >>> growing plants, The usefulness of 6,500 K color temperature applies only >>> to >>> fluorescent lights. >>> >>> Compact fluorescent lamps use less electricity for the light output >>> compared to standard fluorescents, so many light growers are switching. 4 >>> foot long CFL tubes fit into some standard 4-foot, 2-tube fixtures, but >>> not >>> all. Some CFL tubes are made to fit into older fixtures, and other need >>> fixtures specifically for CFL tubes. Most spiral CFL lamps fit into older >>> standard socket fixtures. The least-expensive solution if CFL is chosen >>> would be standard 4 foot long shop fixtures, each holding two CFL tubes. >>> Choose 6,500 K color temperature, and the highest Wattage available. >>> Until >>> recently indoor commercial growers used CFL lamps of 6,500 K color >>> temperature at the highest Wattage they could get. >>> >>> LED (Light-Emitting Diode) lighting is still being developed and >>> perfected. >>> Until recently attention was placed on light for human use, and not much >>> on >>> plant growth. So, most knowledge of how LED lighting works for plants has >>> been trial-and-error. LEDs last perhaps 3-5 years when used 12 hours per >>> day. They are more expensive to buy, but use much less electricity than >>> other lamps. Over their life they are less expensive to run. >>> >>> Individual LEDs emit only certain wavelengths of light, and multiple >>> wavelength LEDs are combined to give the desired light color as seen by >>> the >>> eye. Individual LEDs are rectangles about 2 millimeters square. Multiple >>> LEDs are wired into strips or rectangular arrays, and a protective >>> covering >>> usually put over them, to form lamps. LED lamps are available as flexible >>> linear strips, lamps resembling fluorescent tubes, and lamps resembling >>> incandescent bulbs. The tube-like LED lamps require their own fixtures >>> and >>> generally cannot be used in older fluorescent fixtures. The >>> standard-socket >>> LED light bulbs can be fit into older sockets. >>> >>> At first growers tried to match LED wavelength emitted to the known >>> maximum >>> absorption peaks of chlorophyll, which produced ghastly-looking pink and >>> blue light. It has since been realized chlorophyll absorbs and uses other >>> wavelengths quite well, so these pink and blue LEDs are now considered >>> unnecessary. The idea of a "good" LED lamp for plants includes whether >>> proper wavelength photos are emitted. You will read of`a measurement >>> called >>> PAR, photosynthetically active radiation. This measures what proportion >>> of >>> the photons emitted by the LEDs are used by the plants. Recall color >>> temperature measures how the light looks to the human eye. Different >>> combinations of light wavelength can yield what we think is white light. >>> LED color temperature has not been found useful for deciding which lamp >>> to >>> use on plants, so don't go looking for 6,500 K LED lamps. People are also >>> concerned with how many photons are emitted for the electricity input >>> (efficiency.) >>> >>> Not many smaller LED lamps have been designed specifically for plants, so >>> it can be difficult to choose. However, by trial and error, people have >>> reported some lamps work well. In general, most bright white lamps >>> produce >>> acceptable growth. An LED shop light Home Depot sells has been found to >>> work well: >>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-25-Watt- >>> White-LED-Chain-Mount- >>> Shoplight-1290L/204378710 >>> as have various LED light bulbs designed to be screwed into desk lamp >>> sockets. >>> >>> Commercial indoor growers are switching to LED arrays: >>> http://www.thegrowshopllc.com/neosol-ds-520w-led-plant-grow- >>> luminaire-48/ >>> and plasma lighting >>> http://www.thegrowshopllc.com/gavita-pro-300-light-emitting- >>> plasma-02-ac-lep/ >>> but these are for very valuable crops. >>> >>> So, for Norton... Can you buy in Peru standard T8 fluorescent light tubes >>> and fixtures with 6,500 K color temperature ("daylight"), 20 or 40 Watt? >>> (40W is better.) We know those work well, and will not require importing. >>> This would be your simplest solution. Tubes must be changed once per >>> year. >>> >>> Or, can you buy in Peru T5HO intended for aquariums, with color >>> temperature >>> 6,500 K? Those work well and are more efficient than standard T8. The >>> tubes >>> must be changed once a year. >>> >>> It is hard to carry long, fragile objects on airplanes. Imported CFL >>> tubes >>> only last a year. Imported LED lights will last 3-5 years. >>> >>> People could bring you this light from the US, since it is know to work >>> for >>> plants. It is not as fragile as are fluorescent tubes: >>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-25-Watt- >>> White-LED-Chain-Mount- >>> Shoplight-1290L/204378710 >>> >>> They could also bring you a T5HO aquarium fixture from the US, perhaps >>> with >>> some replacement 6,500 K bulbs. Again, these are long and fragile. >>> >>> Of course, there is no way to tell what will be available in 3-5 years. >>> >>> Leo Martin >>> Zone 9? >>> Phoenix Arizona USA >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > -- > Martin > ---------------------------------------------- > Southern Germany > Likely zone 7a > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From anitaroselle@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 15:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Light bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 18:11:15 -0500 Leo, me again, I am sorry that I sort of got it confused. What I need is a bulb that will fit in my window that is less than 4'. It seems that the next size down is 2'. I want one of those narrow bulbs that is high out-put and energy efficient. If I look on line, is it a T5HO, 6,500 K color temperature that will give a lot of light in a small space and be highly efficient? I want a fixture with a reflector but rather narrow like in a fish tank set up, there are a number of hydroponic places here and pet [fish] stores as well. I can construct a wood frame to hold it up and have a long enough cord that I can plug it ion a timer. Where is Old Bridge, NJ, I am not familiar with it? I used to live in the Delaware Valley area of PA. I really appreciate you helping with this, I would spend hours trying to find what it is that I want. Anita R. On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 5:47 PM, Anita Roselle wrote: > Martin, I agree if I was growing tomatoes or seedlings that I wanted to > stay compact I would use them, just where they are not in front of my eyes > at the kitchen sink or in the living room. That is interesting that they > stimulate buds on freesias. I did not mean to say they were not effective. > I am new to this forum, I'a a long time plant person just now getting > interested in more bulbs. I have a greenhouse so most things are out there > and only a few in the house. > > On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 3:39 PM, Garak wrote: > >> Hi, >> >> I can confirm the the 3 wavelength LED (Red, orange, blue) are quite >> effective for plant growth, e.g. tomatoes stay compact and freesias grow >> buds - I've yet to find a plant that is not compatible. I agree that those >> are too irritating for a living room or for enjoying flowers, but they do >> work well for seedlings in my study room next to the computer, and for >> those plants that need light over winter in a small side chamber. for me, >> they are the winner for price-performance ratio plus they seem realtively >> safe since they are "cold". >> Martin >> >> >> >> Am 05.03.2017 um 21:21 schrieb Anita Roselle: >> >>> Leo, I want to thank you for all the information on electric lighting. >>> >>> I used lights years ago when the best was 2 different fluorescent bulbs >>> in >>> a 2 bulb fixture. I now wish to put some light on my african violets that >>> do not get enough light in the winter to bloom. I have been befuddled >>> about >>> what to buy as there are so many choices, perhaps all of which I know >>> nothing about. You have spelled out for us what the different options are >>> and what they do. I now know what I need to look for and be confident >>> that >>> I am getting the best light at the best cost. I will look for a 2' >>> compact >>> fluorescent fixture with a single high-output T5 bulb. This is at the >>> window over my kitchen sink and I don't like the weird light I have now. >>> I did purchase from Amazon a clip on light, I wanted the clip, that has a >>> whole lot of small bulbs of different colors, I think red and blue, are >>> they LED's? They get the plants to bloom but the color is such that the >>> blooms to peoples eyes are not true to their real color, in fact they >>> look >>> weird. >>> >>> Thank again, >>> Anita R. >>> >>> On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 1:45 PM, Leo Martin wrote: >>> >>> Norton asked about supplemental lighting for sprouting bulb seedlings >>>> indoors. >>>> >>>> Technology is changing rapidly. In 5-10 years light growers will >>>> probably >>>> be using LED lights, with only a few holdouts. LED lights are more >>>> expensive to buy today, but less expensive over their lifespan when >>>> considering the lower electricity usage. I have read analyses suggesting >>>> the break-even point is 6 months to 2 years. >>>> >>>> Light gardeners have abandoned incandescent bulbs. They are inexpensive, >>>> but most of the electricity is wasted producing heat. The bulbs do not >>>> last >>>> long. >>>> >>>> High-pressure sodium lighting (HPS) is very expensive to buy, uses a >>>> lot of >>>> electricity, and produces the most heat of any lighting used for >>>> horticulture. The lamps are so hot a person would get a third-degree >>>> burn >>>> from a single touch lasting less than a second. Water on an illuminated >>>> lamp - like from a spray bottle - causes an explosion, showering >>>> near-molten glass all over the growing area. I would not recommend HPS >>>> to >>>> any home grower, under any circumstances, because of the heat danger. >>>> Much >>>> safer and equally effective alternatives exist. This kind of lamp was >>>> used >>>> for commercial indoor herb growing for years, but these growers have >>>> switched to other lighting. >>>> >>>> Different kinds of fluorescent lighting work well for growing plants, >>>> and >>>> have been standards for some years. Fluorescent grow lights will be >>>> replaced by LEDs over the next few years for reasons of efficiency and >>>> lifetime cost. Another problem with fluorescent lights is that they >>>> contain >>>> mercury, and LEDs contain little or none. >>>> >>>> Hobbyists used standard fluorescent tubes for years; compact fluorescent >>>> lights (CFL) also work well, and use less electricity. Most indoor >>>> fluorescent light growers choose long tubes because the fixtures fit >>>> better >>>> under shelves or over windowsills. Spiral fluorescent lights also work >>>> well. When a spiral lamp is used, the long axis of the spiral should >>>> point >>>> down at the plants, since spiral lamps are designed to emit more light >>>> along the axis rather than from the sides. All fluorescent lamps need >>>> to be >>>> replaced at least every 12 months. Their light output begins decreasing >>>> within 6 months, and most are down to 75% or less of the initial output >>>> by >>>> a year. The human eye does not see this, but the plants do. If you >>>> choose >>>> to use fluorescent lamps, write the date placed into service on the tube >>>> with an indelible marker, and replace every 9-12 months. Standard >>>> fluorescent lights are hot, but not as hot as an incandescent bulb. They >>>> will cause a burn but most people would remove their hand from the hot >>>> tube >>>> before serious injury. >>>> >>>> Long fluorescent tubes are labeled as to the size of the tube. Standard >>>> tubes are T8. They can work well for growing plants if wattage and color >>>> are chosen correctly. Higher-wattage tubes produce more light, and most >>>> people choose 40 Watt T8 tubes rather than 20 W. A very common fixture >>>> for >>>> light growers is sold as a shop light; it holds two, 4 foot / 122cm >>>> long T8 >>>> tubes. They are easy to suspend underneath shelves. Several can be >>>> plugged >>>> into a power strip, which can be plugged into a heavy-duty electric >>>> timer. >>>> >>>> Aquarium, terrarium and some plant growers often use high-output T5 >>>> tubes >>>> (T5HO), which produce more light for the electricity used than standard >>>> tubes. T5s are smaller in diameter than T8s and require different >>>> fixtures. >>>> High-output lamps require different fixtures than standard output. Many >>>> indoor growers buy T5HO aquarium light fixtures for their plant stands. >>>> The >>>> fixtures and tubes are more expensive than standard T8 fixtures and >>>> tubes, >>>> but when considering the cost of electricity over the life of the >>>> fixture >>>> they cost less to run than T8s. They are readily available at aquarium >>>> shops and online. T5HO fixtures come in different lengths, for different >>>> sizes of aquarium, so it may be easier to find a T5HO fixture to fit a >>>> small space as compared to T8 fixtures. T5HO tubes are hotter than >>>> standard >>>> T8 tubes. >>>> >>>> Fluorescent lights are available in different light colors, which is >>>> measured in degrees Kelvin (K.) This is a measure of how the light >>>> appears >>>> to the human eye, and has nothing to do with the actual Kelvin >>>> temperature >>>> scale. It also says nothing about the actual frequencies of photons >>>> making >>>> up the light. It turns out that fluorescent lights with a light color of >>>> 6,500 K are good for growing plants, so this is what most people buy. >>>> Some >>>> manufacturers refer to 6,500 K color temperature as "daylight", but >>>> others >>>> use "daylight" to refer to other color temperatures. Look for the >>>> number on >>>> the box or label. Other light colors alone are not as good for growing >>>> plants as are 6,500 K. Generally, there is no advantage to adding lamps >>>> with other light colors to lamps of 6,500 K. Aquarists can buy 10,000 K >>>> high-output T5s, which provide brilliant white light. But, plants don't >>>> grow very well under this; it is designed for corals. Many T5HO fixtures >>>> are sold with 10,000 K and actinic blue tubes, neither of which works >>>> well >>>> for plants, so it is better to buy a fixture and tubes separately. >>>> >>>> LED lights of color temperature 6,500 K are not necessarily the best for >>>> growing plants, The usefulness of 6,500 K color temperature applies >>>> only to >>>> fluorescent lights. >>>> >>>> Compact fluorescent lamps use less electricity for the light output >>>> compared to standard fluorescents, so many light growers are switching. >>>> 4 >>>> foot long CFL tubes fit into some standard 4-foot, 2-tube fixtures, but >>>> not >>>> all. Some CFL tubes are made to fit into older fixtures, and other need >>>> fixtures specifically for CFL tubes. Most spiral CFL lamps fit into >>>> older >>>> standard socket fixtures. The least-expensive solution if CFL is chosen >>>> would be standard 4 foot long shop fixtures, each holding two CFL tubes. >>>> Choose 6,500 K color temperature, and the highest Wattage available. >>>> Until >>>> recently indoor commercial growers used CFL lamps of 6,500 K color >>>> temperature at the highest Wattage they could get. >>>> >>>> LED (Light-Emitting Diode) lighting is still being developed and >>>> perfected. >>>> Until recently attention was placed on light for human use, and not >>>> much on >>>> plant growth. So, most knowledge of how LED lighting works for plants >>>> has >>>> been trial-and-error. LEDs last perhaps 3-5 years when used 12 hours per >>>> day. They are more expensive to buy, but use much less electricity than >>>> other lamps. Over their life they are less expensive to run. >>>> >>>> Individual LEDs emit only certain wavelengths of light, and multiple >>>> wavelength LEDs are combined to give the desired light color as seen by >>>> the >>>> eye. Individual LEDs are rectangles about 2 millimeters square. Multiple >>>> LEDs are wired into strips or rectangular arrays, and a protective >>>> covering >>>> usually put over them, to form lamps. LED lamps are available as >>>> flexible >>>> linear strips, lamps resembling fluorescent tubes, and lamps resembling >>>> incandescent bulbs. The tube-like LED lamps require their own fixtures >>>> and >>>> generally cannot be used in older fluorescent fixtures. The >>>> standard-socket >>>> LED light bulbs can be fit into older sockets. >>>> >>>> At first growers tried to match LED wavelength emitted to the known >>>> maximum >>>> absorption peaks of chlorophyll, which produced ghastly-looking pink and >>>> blue light. It has since been realized chlorophyll absorbs and uses >>>> other >>>> wavelengths quite well, so these pink and blue LEDs are now considered >>>> unnecessary. The idea of a "good" LED lamp for plants includes whether >>>> proper wavelength photos are emitted. You will read of`a measurement >>>> called >>>> PAR, photosynthetically active radiation. This measures what proportion >>>> of >>>> the photons emitted by the LEDs are used by the plants. Recall color >>>> temperature measures how the light looks to the human eye. Different >>>> combinations of light wavelength can yield what we think is white light. >>>> LED color temperature has not been found useful for deciding which lamp >>>> to >>>> use on plants, so don't go looking for 6,500 K LED lamps. People are >>>> also >>>> concerned with how many photons are emitted for the electricity input >>>> (efficiency.) >>>> >>>> Not many smaller LED lamps have been designed specifically for plants, >>>> so >>>> it can be difficult to choose. However, by trial and error, people have >>>> reported some lamps work well. In general, most bright white lamps >>>> produce >>>> acceptable growth. An LED shop light Home Depot sells has been found to >>>> work well: >>>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-25-Watt- >>>> White-LED-Chain-Mount- >>>> Shoplight-1290L/204378710 >>>> as have various LED light bulbs designed to be screwed into desk lamp >>>> sockets. >>>> >>>> Commercial indoor growers are switching to LED arrays: >>>> http://www.thegrowshopllc.com/neosol-ds-520w-led-plant-grow- >>>> luminaire-48/ >>>> and plasma lighting >>>> http://www.thegrowshopllc.com/gavita-pro-300-light-emitting- >>>> plasma-02-ac-lep/ >>>> but these are for very valuable crops. >>>> >>>> So, for Norton... Can you buy in Peru standard T8 fluorescent light >>>> tubes >>>> and fixtures with 6,500 K color temperature ("daylight"), 20 or 40 Watt? >>>> (40W is better.) We know those work well, and will not require >>>> importing. >>>> This would be your simplest solution. Tubes must be changed once per >>>> year. >>>> >>>> Or, can you buy in Peru T5HO intended for aquariums, with color >>>> temperature >>>> 6,500 K? Those work well and are more efficient than standard T8. The >>>> tubes >>>> must be changed once a year. >>>> >>>> It is hard to carry long, fragile objects on airplanes. Imported CFL >>>> tubes >>>> only last a year. Imported LED lights will last 3-5 years. >>>> >>>> People could bring you this light from the US, since it is know to work >>>> for >>>> plants. It is not as fragile as are fluorescent tubes: >>>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-25-Watt- >>>> White-LED-Chain-Mount- >>>> Shoplight-1290L/204378710 >>>> >>>> They could also bring you a T5HO aquarium fixture from the US, perhaps >>>> with >>>> some replacement 6,500 K bulbs. Again, these are long and fragile. >>>> >>>> Of course, there is no way to tell what will be available in 3-5 years. >>>> >>>> Leo Martin >>>> Zone 9? >>>> Phoenix Arizona USA >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> pbs mailing list >>>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >> >> >> -- >> Martin >> ---------------------------------------------- >> Southern Germany >> Likely zone 7a >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > From k.preteroti@verizon.net Sun, 05 Mar 2017 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <97590DDC-B0DF-4A61-92FB-717B6BB46137@verizon.net> From: Kenneth Preteroti Subject: Light bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 18:22:41 -0500 Anita I guess you are talking about me. Old Bridge is just south of East Brunswick. Exit 9 on the NJ turnpike exit 120 on the GSP. Ken P Old Bridge, NJ Zone 6 b From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: Light bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 20:23:44 -0700 > > What I need is a bulb that will > fit in my window that is less than 4'. It seems that the next size down is > 2'. I want one of those narrow bulbs that is high out-put and energy > efficient. If I look on line, is it a T5HO, 6,500 K color temperature that > will give a lot of light in a small space and be highly efficient? I want a > fixture with a reflector but rather narrow like in a fish tank set up, > there are a number of hydroponic places here and pet [fish] stores as > well. I can construct a wood frame to hold it up and have a long enough > cord that I can plug it ion a timer. > > Where is Old Bridge, NJ, I am not familiar with it? I used to live in the > Delaware Valley area of PA. I don't know much about New Jersey. The parts I've seen have been nice. An aquarium light fixture should suit your purposes. Look up aquarium supplies and see what they have. I haven't looked at the shorter ones, but there are probably some in the 2 foot range. Pay attention to the color temperature of the bulbs; as mentioned, the ones sold for salt-water aquarium use aren't that good at growing plants. Leo Martin Zone 9? Phoenix Arizona USA From bruceandjill.schroder@gmail.com Sun, 05 Mar 2017 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bruce Schroder Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs (norton cuba melly) - pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 2 Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 14:31:50 +1100 I have been thinking about this and the various follow up comments noting that Norton really hasn't received an answer to his question on how to trigger his seedling bulbs into regrowth after their summer dormancy and when he should start watering them. As they are endemic to the unique lomas ecosystem of Peru in which it almost never rains, it certainly wouldn't be late summer storms/showers that trigger the break of dormancy in many South African members of the Amaryllidaceae family (that I have some familiarity with), although summer drought breaking rain is clearly not the only trigger for many such species, as flowering spikes will often appear at the "end of summer" without rain. Notwithstanding the fact that it rarely rains in the Amancaes habitat, I am guessing that the frequency and intensity of the coastal fogs, so typical of the lomas, increases during the cooling months of the year - autumn through winter. Certainly, almost every picture I have seen of this species in flower in its natural habitat suggests damp, misty conditions prevail. So, in answer to his question, perhaps it is a matter of just replicating nature by increasing the humidity and watering ever so lightly (misting?) at the same time of the year that the fogs start rolling in off the Pacific ocean. One thing that does intrigue me about the cycle of this species though is that it is reported that in its natural habitat it sends up its flower spike and flower before the leaves appear yet every habitat photo I have seen (including Norton's 2 misty shots posted on the PBS wiki) show the plants in peak flowering whilst in full leaf. Perhaps you could elaborate on this Norton? Bruce Schroder Melbourne, Australia From nortonc26@hotmail.com Mon, 06 Mar 2017 06:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: norton cuba melly Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs (norton cuba melly) - pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 2 Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 14:06:39 +0000 Good morning everyone or good evening/night depending where you are: >About the watering process, I water all of my plant recipients by capilarity, to my experience its more water efficient, it also guides the water more directly to the roots or bulbs, it avoids soil compaction and washing all the nutrients away. > Regarding amancaes flowering, the flower spike does appear first what is known in botany as hysteranthous, after the first flower opens the leaves grow pretty quickly and since the flower last 3 or 4 days the leave have that time to grow, plus older bulbs produce at least 8 flowers, and not all of them open at the same time, so there is plenty of time for the leaves to come up, if you see the leaves grow first that means that the bulb wont flower that year. Im not a botanist or a biologist so my answer is according to what I´ve seen in the field. Hope that answers your question. Best regards Norton Lima, Peru ________________________________ From: pbs on behalf of Bruce Schroder Sent: Monday, March 6, 2017 3:31 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Ismene amancaes bulbs (norton cuba melly) - pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 2 >So, in answer to his question, perhaps it is a matter of just replicating nature by increasing the humidity and watering ever so lightly (misting?) at the same time of the year that the fogs start rolling in off the Pacific ocean. >One thing that does intrigue me about the cycle of this species though is that it is reported that in its natural habitat it sends up its flower spike and flower before the leaves appear yet every habitat photo I have seen (including Norton's 2 misty shots posted on the PBS wiki) show the plants in peak flowering whilst in full leaf. Perhaps you could elaborate on this Norton? Bruce Schroder Melbourne, Australia _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@frontier.com Mon, 06 Mar 2017 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1564369311.3049192.1488824974809@mail.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: BX instructions Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 18:29:34 +0000 (UTC) There is no offer of those seeds on the part of PBS yet. The seeds are not even ripe yet. And I do not accept advance orders. Perhaps you could contact Paul directly. Dell -------------------------------------------- On Sun, 3/5/17, Anders Bo Petersen via pbs wrote: Subject: Re: [pbs] BX instructions To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Cc: "Anders Bo Petersen" Date: Sunday, March 5, 2017, 7:17 AM blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px #715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white !important; } HiI am interested in seeds if possibleRegardsAndersCopenhagen, Denmark Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On søndag, marts 5, 2017, 13:11, paul matthews wrote: Good morning, blue sky today instead of the usual rain! Just thought I would check with you. I will have some more Pamianthe seed to send shortly but the pods are going to ripen over several weeks by the look of them. Would you like me to store it send it all at once or would you prefer to have seed as the pods open? Kind regards Paul ________________________________ From: pbs on behalf of ds429 Sent: 08 January 2017 20:56 To: pbs Subject: [pbs] BX instructions Please, all, re-read the instuctions that preface each BX offering. You must include your name and address with each order. Also, if you change your address, please inform both me (Dell) and Membership Director, Jane McGary. Thanks for your help, Happy New Year! Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Pacific Bulb Society | List pacificbulbsociety.org The PBS List is an email discussion of bulbs, sponsored by the Pacific Bulb Society, for people around the world. Although bulbs (defined more broadly to include all ... http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Welcome to the Pacific Bulb Society Wiki pacificbulbsociety.org This guide was created by the members of the Pacific Bulb Society e-mail discussion list, a group of people from around the world who are interested in growing and ... _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 06 Mar 2017 14:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <1514855658.3160280.1488835365686@mail.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Fritillaria raddeana: too much too soon? Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 21:22:45 +0000 (UTC) On the afternoon of March 3, in anticipation of the overnight freezes, I covered the blooming scapes of Fritillaria raddeana with a big pot and then heaped wood chips over the pot. I uncovered the plant this afternoon, and the frit is fine. The low on the morning of March 4 was 22.1 degrees F (-6.1 C) and on March 5 it was 19 degrees F. (- 7;2  C). The flowers of the star magnolia were mostly destroyed. Jim McKenneyMontgomery  County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where a brief warm spell is on the way. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bonaventure@optonline.net Mon, 06 Mar 2017 16:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: Subject: LED lights Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2017 23:41:24 GMT Very happy with  MarsHydro Mars300 LED Grow Light or VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower by VIPARSPECTRA $ 89 00 $159.00Prime FREE Shipping on eligible orders both I have received through Amazon and are great on my high-light orchids. Bonaventure Magrys From jane@deskhenge.com Mon, 06 Mar 2017 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane Sargent Subject: plant lights Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 21:38:43 -0500 Yes, I´m sure that the marijuana industry has accelerated the development of plant lights, especially if the plant has to be grown in the cellar. In real life, marijuana wants to grow outdoors in the sun, where it is a weed, largely unkillable. What we have to do is cross this plant with Pamianthes, Ismene, Lycoris, Amaryllis, and Fritillaria, and then we can grow these things out at the edges of fields with little or no effort and perhaps even smoke them on occasion. I wonder how many chromosomes Cannabis has. Jane _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ldiane.whitehead@gmail.com Mon, 06 Mar 2017 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: plant lights Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 19:01:06 -0800 Back in the early 50s Thompson and Morgan had cannabis seeds listed in their catalogue for 2 shillings 6 pence, to be grown for its decorative foliage. I thought about it, but preferred pretty flowers. Diane On 2017-03-06, at 6:38 PM, Jane Sargent wrote: > In real life, marijuana wants to grow outdoors in the sun, where it is a weed, largely unkillable. From michaelcmace@gmail.com Mon, 06 Mar 2017 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <0a1001d29708$18213e10$4863ba30$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 22:00:15 -0800 Hi, gang. I'm trying to import some seeds into the US. I have my small lots of seed permit, but I need to also send the seed vendor a prepaid shipping label that the US inspection folks can use to send the seeds from their facility to me. USPS prepaid labels don't work because the shipping date has to be pre-printed on them. So I am trying to find another service that will let me create a prepaid shipping label. I've looked at UPS and FedEx but can't figure out their websites. So, my question: Those of you who import into the US, how do you handle this problem? Is there a particular service you use? Thanks, Mike From thorne.fred@gmail.com Mon, 06 Mar 2017 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <58be4deb.0abcca0a.6f9e5.b37e@mx.google.com> From: Subject: Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 22:06:25 -0800 Hi Mike, I have used DHL in past, it has been a while but they may be able to help. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Mace Sent: Monday, March 6, 2017 10:01 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports Hi, gang. I'm trying to import some seeds into the US. I have my small lots of seed permit, but I need to also send the seed vendor a prepaid shipping label that the US inspection folks can use to send the seeds from their facility to me. USPS prepaid labels don't work because the shipping date has to be pre-printed on them. So I am trying to find another service that will let me create a prepaid shipping label. I've looked at UPS and FedEx but can't figure out their websites. So, my question: Those of you who import into the US, how do you handle this problem? Is there a particular service you use? Thanks, Mike From mikerumm@gmail.com Mon, 06 Mar 2017 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mike Rummerfield Subject: Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 22:08:55 -0800 Mike, You need to get your permit labels directly from APHIS (the agency where you got your permit). The labels are free once you have your permit, but are not prepaid. My guess is, if you want to prepay then you will have to pay the seller directly before shipping. Regards, Mike On Mon, Mar 6, 2017 at 10:00 PM, Michael Mace wrote: > Hi, gang. > > I'm trying to import some seeds into the US. I have my small lots of seed > permit, but I need to also send the seed vendor a prepaid shipping label > that the US inspection folks can use to send the seeds from their facility > to me. USPS prepaid labels don't work because the shipping date has to be > pre-printed on them. So I am trying to find another service that will let > me > create a prepaid shipping label. I've looked at UPS and FedEx but can't > figure out their websites. > > So, my question: Those of you who import into the US, how do you handle > this > problem? Is there a particular service you use? > > Thanks, > > Mike > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From penstemon@Q.com Mon, 06 Mar 2017 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <16658308659D4FD5B5C319BE2F52E9F7@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 23:14:00 -0700 >I'm trying to import some seeds into the US. I have my small lots of seed >permit, but I need to also send the seed vendor a prepaid shipping label >that the US inspection folks can use to send the seeds from their facility >to me. Are you talking about the green-and-yellow labels? These are not prepaid shipping labels, but labels which direct the mail carrier to send the package to a port of entry. You get these by sending a request via email to GreenandyellowPlantslabelrequest@aphis.usda.gov You need to include your name and permit number and the approved port, with your request. Specify the number of labels required, in multiples of four. They reply with a PDF which has the labels, which you can then print out. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA From janjeddeloh@gmail.com Mon, 06 Mar 2017 23:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <705D8FEF-8A25-4467-82D4-2D22FEB4ACD3@gmail.com> From: Jan Jeddeloh Subject: Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 22:17:01 -0800 Mike, is the prepaid shipping label for getting the seed from the inspection station to you? If so you don’t need one. APHIS (inpseciton station) automatically sends the seed on thru the post office and no further postage is necessary. Really. I’ve gotten seed the last couple of years from the SRGC and AGS using the Small Lot permit and it’s come thru just fine. Every now and then their is a rogue/incompetent/new inspector who erroneously thnks the envelope need extra postage but they are wrong. So bottom line is your foreign shipper pays the postage to get the package to the US. Once in the US there are no additional charges. You just may wait a while for the seed. I just got my AGS seed today. It was mailed from Great Britain in mid January. Jan Jeddeloh > On Mar 6, 2017, at 10:06 PM, wrote: > > Hi Mike, I have used DHL in past, it has been a while but they may be able to help. > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Michael Mace > Sent: Monday, March 6, 2017 10:01 PM > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports > > Hi, gang. > > I'm trying to import some seeds into the US. I have my small lots of seed > permit, but I need to also send the seed vendor a prepaid shipping label > that the US inspection folks can use to send the seeds from their facility > to me. USPS prepaid labels don't work because the shipping date has to be > pre-printed on them. So I am trying to find another service that will let me > create a prepaid shipping label. I've looked at UPS and FedEx but can't > figure out their websites. > > So, my question: Those of you who import into the US, how do you handle this > problem? Is there a particular service you use? > > Thanks, > > Mike > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janjeddeloh@gmail.com Mon, 06 Mar 2017 23:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <17FE0971-E685-4504-9862-F096B00E18C1@gmail.com> From: Jan Jeddeloh Subject: Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 22:23:22 -0800 Amending my post to clarify that you do need to send the seed supplier the green and yellow label from APHIS as Bob Nold explained. If you want a plain English explanation of the convoluted Small Lots system go to the North American Rock Garden Society website http://www.nargs.org and go to “Seedex”. Sometimes individuals and small nurseries are willing to send seed “unofficially” if you get my meaning. Tends to work best with fairly small or flat seed. Much easier way to go if the sender is willing. Jan Jeddeloh _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bulbman@hotmail.com Tue, 07 Mar 2017 06:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alan Subject: Amaryllidaceae of Southern Africa Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 13:27:08 +0000 I don't know how many of you are aware of Graham Duncan's new book? It is inarguably the most beautiful book that I've seen in a long time, and should be a part of every amaryllidophile's library. It is packed with beautiful botanical art by Barbara Jeppe and Leigh Voigt. http://www.umdaus.com/index.php?controller=product&product_id=29 It can also be ordered through Amazon, possibly for less than $100.00 Alan Meerow From teck11@embarqmail.com Tue, 07 Mar 2017 06:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <004201d2974a$36fead80$a4fc0880$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 08:53:34 -0500 My understanding is that the whole thing is handled automatically ONLY if you use the official postal service. Some of the larger private/commercial carriers MIGHT have a seamless system in place but I have seen no evidence of it. Tim Eck When a philosopher says something that is true, then it is trivial. When he says something that is not trivial, then it is false. Gauss > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Michael Mace > Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2017 1:00 AM > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? > > Hi, gang. > > I'm trying to import some seeds into the US. I have my small lots of seed > permit, but I need to also send the seed vendor a prepaid shipping label that > the US inspection folks can use to send the seeds from their facility to me. > USPS prepaid labels don't work because the shipping date has to be pre- > printed on them. So I am trying to find another service that will let me create > a prepaid shipping label. I've looked at UPS and FedEx but can't figure out > their websites. > > So, my question: Those of you who import into the US, how do you handle this > problem? Is there a particular service you use? > > Thanks, > > Mike > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From scottandben@westwind.fsnet.co.uk Tue, 07 Mar 2017 07:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <16992631.9411488897824284.JavaMail.www@wwinf3724> From: JANET MILLER Subject: posting seeds to USA Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 15:43:44 +0100 (CET) When I send iris seeds to America/Canada/Australia etc all I do is stick on a customs declaration label, make sure that everything is correctly labelled then post as usual via Royal Mail large letter post. From idavide@sbcglobal.net Tue, 07 Mar 2017 08:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <1008059403.472430.1488903355860@mail.yahoo.com> From: David Ehrlich Subject: plant lights Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 16:15:55 +0000 (UTC) Back in the 60s, when I lived in San Francisco, Iplanted a marijuana seed in a pot in a window that got afternoon sun.  The plant seemed happy despite the limitedlight.  I only grew it out of curiosity,although eventually, curiosity satisfied, I did smoke it.  A curious thing about marijuana is that althoughdioecious, its sex is not genetically determined: mine started off as male, producingstaminate flowers, but later it became female, producing pistillate flowers.  This is not a particularly rare phenomenonamong dioecious plants, (Sequential hermaphroditism) but it does explain how moderncultivators can manage to have whole harems of female plants.  One wonders whether marijuana can be selfed –collect and freeze the pollen when it’s male, and use that pollen to fertilizeit later when it’s female. David E From: Diane Whitehead To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Monday, March 6, 2017 7:01 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] plant lights Back in the early 50s Thompson and Morgan had cannabis seeds listed in their catalogue for 2 shillings 6 pence, to be grown for its decorative foliage. I thought about it, but preferred pretty flowers. Diane On 2017-03-06, at 6:38 PM, Jane Sargent wrote: >  In real life, marijuana wants to grow outdoors in the sun, where it is a weed, largely unkillable. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From teck11@embarqmail.com Tue, 07 Mar 2017 09:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <004101d29764$81661380$84323a80$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 12:01:39 -0500 Oh yes, I believe it must go first class or higher. > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Tim Eck > Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2017 8:54 AM > To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' > Subject: Re: [pbs] Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? > > My understanding is that the whole thing is handled automatically ONLY if > you use the official postal service. Some of the larger private/commercial > carriers MIGHT have a seamless system in place but I have seen no evidence > of it. > > Tim Eck > When a philosopher says something that is true, then it is trivial. When he > says something that is not trivial, then it is false. > Gauss > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Michael > > Mace > > Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2017 1:00 AM > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: [pbs] Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? > > > > Hi, gang. > > > > I'm trying to import some seeds into the US. I have my small lots of > > seed permit, but I need to also send the seed vendor a prepaid > > shipping label > that > > the US inspection folks can use to send the seeds from their facility > > to > me. > > USPS prepaid labels don't work because the shipping date has to be > > pre- printed on them. So I am trying to find another service that will > > let me > create > > a prepaid shipping label. I've looked at UPS and FedEx but can't > > figure > out > > their websites. > > > > So, my question: Those of you who import into the US, how do you > > handle > this > > problem? Is there a particular service you use? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Mike > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From michaelcmace@gmail.com Tue, 07 Mar 2017 09:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <0b0a01d29764$c46a24a0$4d3e6de0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 09:03:36 -0800 Thanks, everybody! This is such a helpful group. Yes, I have the green and yellow labels, and I am pleased that they are now delivered electronically as opposed to the printed ones that I had to physically mail to the shipper the last time I used the small lots system (years ago). The thing I was worried about was the postage from the inspection station to my home. It sounds like that's not a problem, which is fantastic. I thought I had to pay that separately. Thanks, Mike PS: To those of you who live outside the US, sorry for all the cryptic discussion. We're allowed to import a wide range of seed here, but you have to jump through several hoops to do it. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 07 Mar 2017 09:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <64272e99-428f-1dca-ec3e-c95d145fb671@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Fwd: COMPLETE SET OF HERBERTIA / PLANT LIFE ( 1934-2012 / 13 ) FOR SALE Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 09:14:57 -0800 The following inquiry came via the PBS website. If you're interested in this, please write directly (DO NOT REPLY TO THIS FORUM) to Kevin Thomas at his address below. Jane McGary, Membership Coordinator -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: Re: PBS website contact:COMPLETE SET OF HERBERTIA / PLANT LIFE ( 1934-2012 / 13 ) FOR SALE Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2017 16:31:03 -0800 From: Kevin S. Thomas . To: Jane McGary Dear Ms McGary: I don\'t really know who to contact on this,so you seem to be the most likely place to start. I live in Louisville, Kentucky and I bought the last set of these books that were available from the past president of the IBS,Herb Kelly (plus a few other old items). This set was reputedly the former property of Hamilton Traub himself (up to 1983),and is a clean,unbroken set up to the end in 2013. Unfortunately due to financial issues, and some other factors, I am seeking to sell this set at cost-just trying to get back the money I paid for it -no padding. Somewhat negotiable. How do I let your members know of this opportunity ?! I also have an original copy of Baker\'s Handbook of the Amaryllideae from the library of Maj. Albert Pam, O.B.E. (Pamianthe ), with his bookplate, and a great copy of John Weathers, The Bulb Book, WITH the rarely seen dust jacket. Any assistance on this would be gratefully received ! 😀 With kindest regards, Kevin S. Thomas, Louisvill e, Kentucky _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 07 Mar 2017 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <79abf6de-26d0-fbe1-70cf-0a4fad00b2b9@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: posting seeds to USA Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 09:25:58 -0800 The non-permitted method Janet describes will work some of the time, because the inspectors don't check everything, but if the envelope happens to be inspected, it will be destroyed in the USA or Australia; not sure what happens in Canada. In addition, Australia requires that a list of all species being sent be included in the envelope. (So does New Zealand.) If Janet does add a Customs declaration, it may of course be "correctly labelled" as, say, "Dry botanical materials" or "taxonomic research samples" rather than "seeds." A polysyllabic word probably helps. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA now spending hours in the Post Office in order to get foreign shipments of NARGS exchange seed legally processed. Yesterday it took 45 minutes for 8 "small parcels" to be input. On 3/7/2017 6:43 AM, JANET MILLER wrote: > When I send iris seeds to America/Canada/Australia etc all I do is stick on a customs declaration label, make sure that everything is correctly labelled then post as > usual via Royal Mail large letter post. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 07 Mar 2017 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: plant lights Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 09:31:10 -0800 When marijuana was legalized in my state (Oregon, USA), people who had been growing their own often decided it was easier to buy it at legal shops, and used plant lights became readily available for sale. I bought a very nice array from a neighbor (a retired engineer) and now use it to keep my few tender plants in the garage over winter. At the same time, the numerous shops formerly devoted to growers of "hydroponic vegetables" are starting to offer a wider range of general gardening products; the one near me has fruit trees on offer in its parking lot now. If this is a gateway drug into serious gardening, welcome all! Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA On 3/7/2017 8:15 AM, David Ehrlich wrote: > Back in the 60s, when I lived in San Francisco, Iplanted a marijuana seed in a pot in a window that got afternoon sun. The plant seemed happy despite the limitedlight. I only grew it out of curiosity,although eventually, curiosity satisfied, I did smoke it. A curious thing about marijuana is that althoughdioecious, its sex is not genetically determined: mine started off as male, producingstaminate flowers, but later it became female, producing pistillate flowers. This is not a particularly rare phenomenonamong dioecious plants, (Sequential hermaphroditism) but it does explain how moderncultivators can manage to have whole harems of female plants. One wonders whether marijuana can be selfed –collect and freeze the pollen when it’s male, and use that pollen to fertilizeit later when it’s female. > David E > > From: Diane Whitehead > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Monday, March 6, 2017 7:01 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] plant lights > > Back in the early 50s Thompson and Morgan had cannabis seeds listed in their catalogue for 2 shillings 6 pence, to be grown for its decorative foliage. > I thought about it, but preferred pretty flowers. > > Diane > > On 2017-03-06, at 6:38 PM, Jane Sargent wrote: >> In real life, marijuana wants to grow outdoors in the sun, where it is a weed, largely unkillable. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ldiane.whitehead@gmail.com Tue, 07 Mar 2017 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: posting seeds to USA Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 09:34:44 -0800 No fuss needed to send flower or vegetable seeds to Canada. Tree seeds do have regulations. Diane On 2017-03-07, at 9:25 AM, Jane McGary wrote: > not sure what happens in Canada. > > > On 3/7/2017 6:43 AM, JANET MILLER wrote: >> When I send iris seeds to America/Canada/Australia etc all I do is stick on a customs declaration label, make sure that everything is correctly labelled then post as usual via Royal Mail large letter post. >> _______________________________________________ From gentian21@volo.net Tue, 07 Mar 2017 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: gentian21 Subject: posting seeds to USA Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2017 11:42:04 -0600 Perhaps the misinformation is because people are referrering to seeds  or plants shipped by private carrier.  First class and priority mail always provides for free forwarding.  The only thing different is that it is being opened for postal inspection.  If a company sends seeds to an in between mailer who opens the package and attempts to reseal it and mail it it is not valid for delivery.  This could happenen if the package was mis- delivered, opened and then remailed. It might go throught but is not supposed to valid.  That would be like if some body is doing a robin and expects the letter to be forwarded.  If that was not automatically forwarded you might as well say that anything opened for postal inspection would automatically be destroyed which is illegal.  Only mail that has no identification or is prohibited can be destroyed.  Universal postal union rules require that mail received from a foreign country must be delivered without additional postage.  Perhaps attempts are being made by suppliers attempting to ship seeds via 3rd class or parcel post equivalent rates.  Parcel post or 3rd class does not provide for forwarding. This is not forwarding because they are opened for inspection and the addressee is not APHIS.  You absolutly need to have the seeds send via first class or priority mail.    The issue is that with private carriers it has to be forwarded by the private carrier it is mailed by because the postal service does not deliver mail without postage paid.  The private carrier has to have service in that coutry or a contract with an indigenous carrier.  It is also confused with the process of shipping plants via freight which requires an agent to pick it iup. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: JANET MILLER Date: 3/7/17 8:43 AM (GMT-06:00) To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] posting seeds to USA When I send iris seeds to America/Canada/Australia etc all I do is stick on a customs declaration label, make sure that everything is correctly labelled then post as usual via Royal Mail large letter post. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From penstemon@Q.com Tue, 07 Mar 2017 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <43EF4E0FB2DE40E0BC3CAD7A24E05B55@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 10:42:24 -0700 >Yes, I have the green and yellow labels, and I am pleased that they are now >delivered electronically as opposed to the printed ones that I had to >physically mail to the shipper the last time I used the small lots system >(years ago). You still do have to send one of the labels with your order, along with a copy of the permit, and a printed list of the seeds you’re ordering, with the country of origin, and the name of the exporter. If the exporter just uses a number on each seed packet, then the printed list should contain that number. >The thing I was worried about was the postage from the inspection station to >my home. It sounds like that's not a problem, which is fantastic. I thought >I had to pay that separately. No you don’t. In theory, this could happen, but it’s never happened to me. All of this is nothing, to me. Especially compared to the effort I’ve made trying to get the new color cartridge to print in color. It still won’t print, so no seed orders for me. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From dkramb@badbear.com Tue, 07 Mar 2017 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: plant lights Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 13:52:38 -0500 Jane, your message made me laugh so much. :-) I've led a naive life. I was nearly 40 the first time I saw marijuana, and I still haven't seen a live plant nor smoked pot. But anyway, I've had indoor plant lights for something like 8 years now and can not tell you how many (stupid) neighbors have made (stupid) comments about what I was growing. (I've lived here 17 years and one neighbor has only spoken to me once, just to ask me if I was growing pot. Ugh.) They'd be disappointed, no doubt, to see my vast collection of Smithiantha, Sinningia, Primulina, and Streptocarpus plants. LOL. I am vaguely aware several native plants in my garden are smokeable & mind-altering, but I've never been remotely tempted to try it. I'm convinced native Americans tried to smoke/drink just about everything. By the way, just to stay on topic, the LED lights I bought at Christmas are miraculous with Sinningia (which often grow in full sun in Brazil). In just 2 months the LED lights induced bloom in a Sinningia that hasn't bloomed under fluorescents in 5 years. I highlyl recommend the LED fixtures with dual-dimmers for vegetative growth & bloom. Dennis in Cincinnati On Tue, Mar 7, 2017 at 12:31 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > When marijuana was legalized in my state (Oregon, USA), people who had > been growing their own often decided it was easier to buy it at legal > shops, and used plant lights became readily available for sale. I bought a > very nice array from a neighbor (a retired engineer) and now use it to keep > my few tender plants in the garage over winter. At the same time, the > numerous shops formerly devoted to growers of "hydroponic vegetables" are > starting to offer a wider range of general gardening products; the one near > me has fruit trees on offer in its parking lot now. If this is a gateway > drug into serious gardening, welcome all! > > Jane McGary > > Portland, Oregon, USA > > > > On 3/7/2017 8:15 AM, David Ehrlich wrote: > >> Back in the 60s, when I lived in San Francisco, Iplanted a marijuana seed >> in a pot in a window that got afternoon sun. The plant seemed happy >> despite the limitedlight. I only grew it out of curiosity,although >> eventually, curiosity satisfied, I did smoke it. A curious thing about >> marijuana is that althoughdioecious, its sex is not genetically determined: >> mine started off as male, producingstaminate flowers, but later it became >> female, producing pistillate flowers. This is not a particularly rare >> phenomenonamong dioecious plants, (Sequential hermaphroditism) but it does >> explain how moderncultivators can manage to have whole harems of female >> plants. One wonders whether marijuana can be selfed –collect and freeze >> the pollen when it’s male, and use that pollen to fertilizeit later when >> it’s female. >> David E >> >> From: Diane Whitehead >> To: Pacific Bulb Society >> Sent: Monday, March 6, 2017 7:01 PM >> Subject: Re: [pbs] plant lights >> Back in the early 50s Thompson and Morgan had cannabis seeds listed >> in their catalogue for 2 shillings 6 pence, to be grown for its decorative >> foliage. >> I thought about it, but preferred pretty flowers. >> >> Diane >> >> On 2017-03-06, at 6:38 PM, Jane Sargent wrote: >> >>> In real life, marijuana wants to grow outdoors in the sun, where it >>> is a weed, largely unkillable. >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From nortonc26@hotmail.com Tue, 07 Mar 2017 12:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: norton cuba melly Subject: For Begonia Growers Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 19:21:48 +0000 Hello everyone, I have been germinating begonias from seed. The species I´m growing are Begonia geraniifolia and Begonia octopetala, both grow in any of the "Lomas" of Peru near the coast and in some parts of the Andes in more elevated areas. There is not much information about them. They are tuberous begonias and the tubers are very superficial. They took a month to germinate and I´ve seen them get bigger in the main leaf, but on the first three months the tuber has only gotten as big as a quinoa seed. Questions: >Is this normal? Do they need more light maybe? How can I make them grow a bit faster? > I read on the internet that when they have 3 leaves you can start giving them one drop of fertilizer( fish emulsion) directly to the tuber, once every 2 weeks to help them develop , is this true? To see pictures follow this links Begonia geraniifolia: https://goo.gl/Bcyrgk Begonia octopetala: https://goo.gl/oGJDnz Best regards Norton From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Tue, 07 Mar 2017 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <8F397590-E75F-4C10-B454-581DA1BACC73@gmail.com> From: Steven Hart Subject: posting seeds to USA Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2017 06:32:51 +1000 That is the correct procedure for Australia ! DAFF AQIS ICON Search data base gives a list of botanical names that are either allowed or not & any specific Spp requirements. We do require endangered specials permits for some Spp & all requirements are listed. For all allowed seeds you only need to list botanical name & number of seeds on individual packets & seeds be free of any fruiting husk. To anyone who thinks it's a good idea to mark seeds as something else like research material etc. if not declared as seeds it is a breach of customs law & your seeds will often be destroyed. Steven Hart Treats 4 Dogs Hart's Entwine Nuts & Dried Fruits Hart's Temple Oils > On 8 Mar 2017, at 12:43 am, JANET MILLER wrote: > > When I send iris seeds to America/Canada/Australia etc all I do is stick on a customs declaration label, make sure that everything is correctly labelled then post as > usual via Royal Mail large letter post. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From cortocora@gmail.com Tue, 07 Mar 2017 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "L. Cortopassi - G. Corazza" Subject: For Begonia Growers Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 23:24:52 +0100 Usually the tubers develop at the end of the growing season. Gianluca Corazza, Italy 2017-03-07 20:21 GMT+01:00 norton cuba melly : > Hello everyone, > > I have been germinating begonias from seed. The species I´m growing are > Begonia geraniifolia and Begonia octopetala, both grow in any of the > "Lomas" of Peru near the coast and in some parts of the Andes in more > elevated areas. There is not much information about them. They are tuberous > begonias and the tubers are very superficial. > > They took a month to germinate and I´ve seen them get bigger in the main > leaf, but on the first three months the tuber has only gotten as big as a > quinoa seed. > > Questions: > >Is this normal? Do they need more light maybe? How can I make them grow a > bit faster? > > I read on the internet that when they have 3 leaves you can start giving > them one drop of fertilizer( fish emulsion) directly to the tuber, once > every 2 weeks to help them develop , is this true? > > To see pictures follow this links > Begonia geraniifolia: https://goo.gl/Bcyrgk > Begonia octopetala: https://goo.gl/oGJDnz > > Best regards > Norton > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From john@oltarakwa.co.uk Tue, 07 Mar 2017 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <167ba5dddec0e4dec03dccf9fcb023c3@oltarakwa.co.uk> From: john@oltarakwa.co.uk Subject: Amaryllidaceae of Southern Africa Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2017 22:35:52 +0000 I couldn't agree more with Alan's endorsement of 'The Amaryllidaceae of Southern Africa' - a truly superb book in every way. John Grimshaw On 2017-03-07 13:27, Alan wrote: > I don't know how many of you are aware of Graham Duncan's new book? It > is inarguably the most beautiful book that I've seen in a long time, > and > should be a part of every amaryllidophile's library. It is packed with > beautiful botanical art by Barbara Jeppe and Leigh Voigt. > > http://www.umdaus.com/index.php?controller=product&product_id=29 > > It can also be ordered through Amazon, possibly for less than $100.00 > > Alan Meerow > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From thomasmasinter@gmail.com Tue, 07 Mar 2017 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <96560728-E115-4256-9539-AE566CB6554D@gmail.com> From: Thomas Masinter Subject: Amaryllidaceae of Southern Africa Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 17:27:23 -0600 I just purchased it at Abe books. Their copy was cheaper than eBay and Amazon. Tom Masinter San Antonio, TX > On Mar 7, 2017, at 4:35 PM, john@oltarakwa.co.uk wrote: > > > I couldn't agree more with Alan's endorsement of 'The Amaryllidaceae of Southern Africa' - a truly superb book in every way. > > John Grimshaw > > > > On 2017-03-07 13:27, Alan wrote: >> I don't know how many of you are aware of Graham Duncan's new book? It >> is inarguably the most beautiful book that I've seen in a long time, and >> should be a part of every amaryllidophile's library. It is packed with >> beautiful botanical art by Barbara Jeppe and Leigh Voigt. >> http://www.umdaus.com/index.php?controller=product&product_id=29 >> It can also be ordered through Amazon, possibly for less than $100.00 >> Alan Meerow >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 07 Mar 2017 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <400192163.828667.1488931042850@mail.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Spring in Washington? Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 23:57:22 +0000 (UTC) Earlier this week we had two nights of overnight lows with hard freezes: the open flowers of Magnolia stellata were destroyed but many buds survived. Spring peepers (little frogs) were heard two weeks ago, but the big choruses have yet to start. They might tonight - it's raining and warmish, ideal conditions for the little frogs to make their way to the vernal pools where they breed. A mourning cloak butterfly was seen this morning, and the resident garter snake was sunning itself about a yard over the ground in a dense Jasminum nudiflorum. Snowdrops are nearing the end of their season as are the tommies. The rain, if heavy, will probably finish off the tommies. Thousands of tommies have been blooming during the last two weeks - and I have not seen one bee visiting them.  Cyclamen coum and its relatives are blooming freely now. Iris unguicularis and I. cretica have been blooming continuously for at least two months, and they were joined this week by Iris lazica. I sleep with a window open in order to be able to hear the morning bird song. Those of you who are birders probably know Louis Halle's book, Spring in Washington. Now's a great time to read it again - or for those of you who don't know it, for the first time. Jim McKenneyMontgomery County Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where if the rain is sufficient, the ground should erupt soon in the next wave of late winter bloom.  _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From sbourrie@verizon.net Tue, 07 Mar 2017 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1765509380.1086271.1488932450436@mail.yahoo.com> From: Sally Bourrie Subject: Spring in Washington? Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2017 00:20:50 +0000 (UTC) Jim, That was beautiful! Thank you! Sally Be kind whenever possible. It is always possible.-- Dalai Lama    From: Jim McKenney To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tuesday, March 7, 2017 6:57 PM Subject: [pbs] Spring in Washington? Earlier this week we had two nights of overnight lows with hard freezes: the open flowers of Magnolia stellata were destroyed but many buds survived. Spring peepers (little frogs) were heard two weeks ago, but the big choruses have yet to start. They might tonight - it's raining and warmish, ideal conditions for the little frogs to make their way to the vernal pools where they breed. A mourning cloak butterfly was seen this morning, and the resident garter snake was sunning itself about a yard over the ground in a dense Jasminum nudiflorum. Snowdrops are nearing the end of their season as are the tommies. The rain, if heavy, will probably finish off the tommies. Thousands of tommies have been blooming during the last two weeks - and I have not seen one bee visiting them.  Cyclamen coum and its relatives are blooming freely now. Iris unguicularis and I. cretica have been blooming continuously for at least two months, and they were joined this week by Iris lazica. I sleep with a window open in order to be able to hear the morning bird song. Those of you who are birders probably know Louis Halle's book, Spring in Washington. Now's a great time to read it again - or for those of you who don't know it, for the first time. Jim McKenneyMontgomery County Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where if the rain is sufficient, the ground should erupt soon in the next wave of late winter bloom.  _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue, 07 Mar 2017 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <2922A2E2-9368-4FE9-B2D2-B4631DDE0BE2@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Prepaid shipping labels for US seed imports? Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 16:31:02 -0800 >> Yes, I have the green and yellow labels, and I am pleased that they are now >> delivered electronically as opposed to the printed ones that I had to >> physically mail to the shipper the last time I used the small lots system >> (years ago). > > You still do have to send one of the labels with your order, along with a copy of the permit, and a printed list of the seeds you’re ordering, with the country of origin, and the name of the exporter. > If the exporter just uses a number on each seed packet, then the printed list should contain that number. Except that now, rather than mailing actual physical copies of the permit and the labels via regular mail (“snail mail”) before the shipper could send you your order, these days you can email the PDF files for both to the shipper and they can print them out at their end. > > >> The thing I was worried about was the postage from the inspection station to >> my home. It sounds like that's not a problem, which is fantastic. I thought >> I had to pay that separately. > > No you don’t. In theory, this could happen, but it’s never happened to me. > When the small lots of seeds permit system was first implemented, there were different interpretations of how the onward shipping from the inspection station to the final recipient would be handled. Some inspection stations and some local postal service stations argued that the onward postage had to be paid separately, and some thought no extra postage charges should be assessed. Unluckily for me, the LAX people argued for the first case and I would get phone calls telling me to send them either money or postage stamps so they could mail me my package of seeds. Other places were luckier and the inspection station would just hand the re-sealed package back to the postal service and they would deliver it onward at no charge. It turns out that the laws and treaties said this latter method was always the correct method, and eventually this was explained to all the agencies nationwide. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From lmf@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Tue, 07 Mar 2017 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <81A2ABF7-15D8-4112-88DE-6CA7D5BCC347@beautifulblooms.ab.ca> From: Linda Foulis Subject: posting seeds to USA Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2017 18:28:02 -0700 I had clivia seeds seized a couple years ago, from S. Africa. The inspector thought they were bulbs. I received a letter stating that my parcel had been destroyed because they were bulbs and without a phyto cert. I called the number enclosed, and things just got kind of weird from there. The person I spoke to confirmed that indeed my costly package was destroyed and oh well, even though he was able to confirm that the package was correctly labeled stating contents and so on. A week later I got the package, including the one seed they had cut in half. Other than that one incident I've never had issues with seed, in or out of the country. In cold Canada. Supposed to go down to -27C overnight. Linda M Foulis > On Mar 7, 2017, at 10:34 AM, Diane Whitehead wrote: > > No fuss needed to send flower or vegetable seeds to Canada. Tree seeds do have regulations. > > Diane > > >> On 2017-03-07, at 9:25 AM, Jane McGary wrote: >> >> not sure what happens in Canada. >> >> >>> On 3/7/2017 6:43 AM, JANET MILLER wrote: >>> When I send iris seeds to America/Canada/Australia etc all I do is stick on a customs declaration label, make sure that everything is correctly labelled then post as usual via Royal Mail large letter post. >>> _______________________________________________ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Wed, 08 Mar 2017 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <037e51c7-5d10-1ce6-1e96-e830bf3a5c0d@btinternet.com> From: youngs Subject: Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2017 16:49:15 +0000 1) Janis Ruksans new book - The World of Crocuses - is now in print - hundreds of pages, beautiful illustrations, distribution maps - everything Janis has learned about Crocus over the last decades - you can learn more, including how to order the book, from this pageon SRGCforum : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14685.0 2) It seems some are unaware of how to find Ian Young's e-book - Erythroniums in Cultivation - which was introduced late in 2016 in pdf form - 278 full colour pages - free to download via this link : http://files.srgc.net/general/ERYTHRONIUMS-IN-CULTIVATION%20-2016-IanYoung.pdf 3) A reminder too of the fact that every week on the SRGC website a new Bulb Log is loaded - published every week since 2003, every issue can be found from this page : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=bulb and every month - on the last Friday of the month, the free e-magazine International Rock Gardener (IRG) ISSN 2053-7557 is published here on the SRGC site : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=international An updated index is available there too. The latest Bulb Log is here : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2017Mar081488968834BULB_LOG_1017.pdf the latest IRG is here : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2017Feb231487875287IRG_86.pdf Hope this helps those who were having difficulty finding the links! M. Y From robin@hansennursery.com Wed, 08 Mar 2017 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <000c01d2982e$6a387c50$3ea974f0$@hansennursery.com> From: "Hansen Nursery" Subject: Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2017 09:07:05 -0800 Maggie, Am I blind, or is it too early in the morning? I can't find a link where I can order Janis' book.... I have his others, but I really want this one. Also, is there any chance your book on Erythroniums will get into print? I can download, but really want a good paper copy. Thank you, Robin Hansen Nursery robin@hansennursery.com -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of youngs Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2017 8:49 AM To: PBS lists Subject: [pbs] Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club 1) Janis Ruksans new book - The World of Crocuses - is now in print - hundreds of pages, beautiful illustrations, distribution maps - everything Janis has learned about Crocus over the last decades - you can learn more, including how to order the book, from this pageon SRGCforum : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14685.0 2) It seems some are unaware of how to find Ian Young's e-book - Erythroniums in Cultivation - which was introduced late in 2016 in pdf form - 278 full colour pages - free to download via this link : http://files.srgc.net/general/ERYTHRONIUMS-IN-CULTIVATION%20-2016-IanYoung.p df 3) A reminder too of the fact that every week on the SRGC website a new Bulb Log is loaded - published every week since 2003, every issue can be found from this page : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=bulb and every month - on the last Friday of the month, the free e-magazine International Rock Gardener (IRG) ISSN 2053-7557 is published here on the SRGC site : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=international An updated index is available there too. The latest Bulb Log is here : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2017Mar081488968834BULB_LOG_1017.pdf the latest IRG is here : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2017Feb231487875287IRG_86.pdf Hope this helps those who were having difficulty finding the links! M. Y ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/14076 - Release Date: 03/08/17 From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Wed, 08 Mar 2017 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: youngs Subject: Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2017 18:13:44 +0000 Hi Robin, There is no formal order form - To order Janis ' book you need to email to him to get cost, including postage - janis.bulb@hawk.lv Sorry if I have not made that clear. There are no plans to print Ian's Erythronium "book" - anyone may download it and get it printed out if they wish - some have already done so! To make it a reasonable size for downloading the photos are not all in highest resolution- but I hope to see a copy of it printed myself very soon - I'm told it has turned out rather well nonetheless. Ian's wish is for it to be available to the largest number of people for free. M From markemazer@gmail.com Wed, 08 Mar 2017 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2017 13:46:18 -0500 Ruksan's Crocus book is available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Crocuses-Complete-Guide-Janis-Ruksans/dp/1604691069 Mark Mazer Hertford, NC USDA 8A No crocus left here. Critters ate them all. On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 1:13 PM, youngs wrote: > Hi Robin, > > There is no formal order form - To order Janis ' book you need to email > to him to get cost, including postage - janis.bulb@hawk.lv janis.bulb@hawk.lv> > > Sorry if I have not made that clear. > > There are no plans to print Ian's Erythronium "book" - anyone may > download it and get it printed out if they wish - some have already done > so! To make it a reasonable size for downloading the photos are not all > in highest resolution- but I hope to see a copy of it printed myself very > soon - I'm told it has turned out rather well nonetheless. Ian's wish is > for it to be available to the largest number of people for free. > M > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From rdevries@comcast.net Wed, 08 Mar 2017 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <08BB1F49-7499-4099-93D2-3E304AC04633@comcast.net> From: Rimmer deVries Subject: Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2017 13:49:46 -0500 Different book, Amazon has the older version > On Mar 8, 2017, at 1:46 PM, Mark Mazer wrote: > > Ruksan's Crocus book is available on Amazon: > https://www.amazon.com/Crocuses-Complete-Guide-Janis-Ruksans/dp/1604691069 > > Mark Mazer > Hertford, NC USDA 8A From robin@hansennursery.com Wed, 08 Mar 2017 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <003501d2983c$d5344d00$7f9ce700$@hansennursery.com> From: "Hansen Nursery" Subject: Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2017 10:50:18 -0800 Just to clarify - Janis Ruksans' newest book is "The World of Crocuses" and appears to be only available directly from him. Robin Hansen Nursery robin@hansennursery.com >>>>Subject: Re: [pbs] Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club Ruksan's Crocus book is available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Crocuses-Complete-Guide-Janis-Ruksans/dp/1604691069 Mark Mazer Hertford, NC USDA 8A From markemazer@gmail.com Wed, 08 Mar 2017 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2017 16:02:10 -0500 Thanks for the clarification. M On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 1:50 PM, Hansen Nursery wrote: > Just to clarify - Janis Ruksans' newest book is "The World of Crocuses" and > appears to be only available directly from him. > > Robin > Hansen Nursery > robin@hansennursery.com > > >>>>Subject: Re: [pbs] Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club > > Ruksan's Crocus book is available on Amazon: > https://www.amazon.com/Crocuses-Complete-Guide-Janis-Ruksans/dp/1604691069 > > Mark Mazer > Hertford, NC USDA 8A > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From vbouffard55@msn.com Wed, 08 Mar 2017 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Vivien Bouffard Subject: For Begonia Growers Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2017 01:26:49 +0000 Norton, I haven't grown those species, only fancy hybrid tuberous begonias from commercial seed. They are extremely slow-growing; I start them fairly early in January to have plants to pot up outside in May. I just looked and see no signs of tubers on my still-tiny plants. I don't try to hurry the seedlings, just keep them alive while they're trying to bulk up, by keeping them warm and moist. I think Gianluca is right about the tubers coming later in the plant's development. I know that by the end of summer, I'll have nice tubers to keep. My experience in the genus probably has little or no relevance to your two particular species, but who knows. Good luck with them. Vivien Norwood, MA Zone 6 > To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" > Subject: [pbs] For Begonia Growers Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hello everyone, I have been germinating begonias from seed. The species I?m growing are Begonia geraniifolia and Begonia octopetala, both grow in any of the "Lomas" of Peru near the coast and in some parts of the Andes in more elevated areas. There is not much information about them. They are tuberous begonias and the tubers are very superficial. They took a month to germinate and I?ve seen them get bigger in the main leaf, but on the first three months the tuber has only gotten as big as a quinoa seed. Questions: >Is this normal? Do they need more light maybe? How can I make them grow a bit faster? > I read on the internet that when they have 3 leaves you can start giving them one drop of fertilizer( fish emulsion) directly to the tuber, once every 2 weeks to help them develop , is this true? To see pictures follow this links Begonia geraniifolia: https://goo.gl/Bcyrgk Begonia octopetala: https://goo.gl/oGJDnz Best regards Norton> From david@davidpilling.com Fri, 10 Mar 2017 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <796861d8-e1fb-fd93-950f-4210b8ef5ed8@davidpilling.com> From: David Pilling Subject: one for the croconuts Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2017 01:41:19 +0000 Hi, 100,000 crocuses have been planted at Wallington Hall in Northumberland (UK) to celebrate the retirement after 26 years of the head gardener, they're in bloom now see: https://goo.gl/ZcEEMX original URL: https://www.paimages.co.uk/search-results/fluid/?q=Wallington%20Hall&category=A,S,E&fields_0=all&fields_1=all&imagesonly=1&order=relevance&orientation=both&text=Wallington%20Hall&words_0=all&words_1=all -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sat, 11 Mar 2017 08:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Anna Mae Miller via pbs Subject: Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2017 10:28:44 -0500 I believe Amazon has it. AnnaMae Sent from my iPad > On Mar 8, 2017, at 12:07 PM, Hansen Nursery wrote: > > Maggie, > > Am I blind, or is it too early in the morning? I can't find a link where I > can order Janis' book.... I have his others, but I really want this one. > > Also, is there any chance your book on Erythroniums will get into print? I > can download, but really want a good paper copy. > > Thank you, > > Robin > Hansen Nursery > robin@hansennursery.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of youngs > Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2017 8:49 AM > To: PBS lists > Subject: [pbs] Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club > > 1) Janis Ruksans new book - The World of Crocuses - is now in print - > hundreds of pages, beautiful illustrations, distribution maps - > > everything Janis has learned about Crocus over the last decades - > > you can learn more, including how to order the book, from this pageon > SRGCforum : > > http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14685.0 > > 2) It seems some are unaware of how to find Ian Young's e-book - > Erythroniums in Cultivation - which was introduced late in 2016 > > in pdf form - 278 full colour pages - free to download via this link : > > http://files.srgc.net/general/ERYTHRONIUMS-IN-CULTIVATION%20-2016-IanYoung.p > df > > 3) A reminder too of the fact that every week on the SRGC website a new > Bulb Log is loaded - > > published every week since 2003, every issue can be found from this page : > > http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=bulb > > and every month - on the last Friday of the month, the free e-magazine > International Rock Gardener (IRG) ISSN 2053-7557 > > is published here on the SRGC site : > http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=international > > An updated index is available there too. > > The latest Bulb Log is here : > http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2017Mar081488968834BULB_LOG_1017.pdf > > the latest IRG is here : > http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2017Feb231487875287IRG_86.pdf > > > Hope this helps those who were having difficulty finding the links! > > M. Y > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/14076 - Release Date: 03/08/17 > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From russell@odysseybulbs.com Sat, 11 Mar 2017 08:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <20170311153816.904802062@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Russell Stafford, Odyssey Plants" Subject: 2017 Odyssey Bulbs catalog Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2017 10:37:40 -0500 It's now on line at www.odysseybulbs.com. Thanks, Russell Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA 01561 508-335-8106 russell@odysseybulbs.com www.odysseybulbs.com www.facebook.com/odysseybulbs From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Sat, 11 Mar 2017 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: For Begonia Growers Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2017 17:03:20 -0700 Norton wrote > I have been germinating begonias from seed. The species I?m growing are > Begonia geraniifolia and Begonia octopetala, both grow in any of the > "Lomas" of Peru near the coast and in some parts of the Andes in more > elevated areas. There is not much information about them. They are tuberous > begonias and the tubers are very superficial. > > They took a month to germinate and I?ve seen them get bigger in the main > leaf, but on the first three months the tuber has only gotten as big as a > quinoa seed. > > >Is this normal? Do they need more light maybe? How can I make them grow a > bit faster? > > > I read on the internet that when they have 3 leaves you can start giving > them one drop of fertilizer( fish emulsion) directly to the tuber, once > every 2 weeks to help them develop , is this true? > I haven't grown these, but this is how I would think about them: If prehistoric Peruvians grew them as a food crop, they are probably very easy to grow. If they don't seem that way I would think I'm doing something wrong. Maybe you can research food growing technology of the ancients? In general, things from winter-rainfall areas grow fastest when they get plenty of water and as much light as they can tolerate without getting too hot. Next is only a suspicion I have: I think a lot of these plants live along with cyanobacteria that fix nitrogen for them. There is no other source of nitrogen for these plants, and they grow much faster in real soil in a real winter rainfall situation than they do in a pot of sand on a windowsill. So, despite constant admonitions from people not to fertilize winter-rainfall plants, I do so heavily! With ammonium sulfate! I put a spoonful / 15ml of powder in 3.78 liters of water (1 gallon.) I use this as often as I have time to do so. I would fertilize all my winter bulbs with this at every watering but I have that pesky need to work. Be careful with solute load in water. I don't know whether lomas vegetation plants can grow with high total dissolved solids in their water. Too much fertilizer may cause osmotic damage ("burning") but I don't know. Begonias grow like weeds so long as temperature be appropriate and water available. I would expect a lot of winter-growing things to become dormant if they dry out even once. I would seek out experienced tuberous begonia growers to find out when other kinds begin forming tubers from seed. I have no idea; I've only grown non-tuberous begonias from seed. A wild guess for a plant with an unpredictable rainfall pattern is that it would produce as much vegetative growth as possible after seeds sprout, in order to take advantage of photosynthesis, to make as much sugar as possible while water is available, and then it would form tubers later, in response to a day length signal or the first hint of reduced water availabilty. But as always, a beautiful hypothesis can be slain by an ugly fact. Leo Martin Zone 9? Phoenix Arizona USA From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Sun, 12 Mar 2017 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <2f87aa78-1001-d8bf-4bc5-e6e71ea7ba5b@btinternet.com> From: youngs Subject: Updates from the Scottish Rock Garden Club Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2017 16:23:13 +0000 Anna Mae Miller - the book available from Amazon is a previous book by Janis Ruksans on Crocus. This new book is called The World of Crocuses - as stated in a previous post - There is no formal order form to date - To order Janis ' book you need to email to him to get cost, including postage - janis.bulb@hawk.lv I cannot recommend this book highly enough to all lovers of the genus Crocus. Margaret Young From dkramb@badbear.com Wed, 15 Mar 2017 15:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <58C9BB6E.7050706@badbear.com> From: dkramb Subject: Manfreda brunnea Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2017 18:08:46 -0400 Is anyone growing Manfreda brunnea that would be willing to share some pollen this spring? Thanks, Dennis in Cincinnati From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Wed, 15 Mar 2017 16:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <2118536793.1029667.1489618910344@mail.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden via pbs Subject: Manfreda brunnea Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2017 23:01:50 +0000 (UTC) It is not what you asked for, but I have an inflorescence coming up on nanchititlensis again. Sadly, I don't have brunnea or some of the others I want. From: dkramb To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 6:08 PM Subject: [pbs] Manfreda brunnea Is anyone growing Manfreda brunnea that would be willing to share some pollen this spring? Thanks, Dennis in Cincinnati From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Thu, 16 Mar 2017 15:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <4b1c0e5e-0bed-17e0-af01-666636d3d5f4@btinternet.com> From: youngs Subject: Janis Ruksans NEW book 'The World of Crocuses' Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2017 20:57:43 +0000 I believe that soon the Alpine Garden Society in the UK will be stocking Janis' book to sell. From robin@hansennursery.com Thu, 16 Mar 2017 15:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <002d01d29e9f$b0b86970$12293c50$@hansennursery.com> From: "Hansen Nursery" Subject: Janis Ruksans NEW book 'The World of Crocuses' Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2017 14:53:04 -0700 That's great news! Keep us informed. It would hopefully be easier for Janis if someone is handling the sale so he can get on with more important stuff! Like writing more books! Robin Hansen robin@hansennursery.com -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of youngs Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 1:58 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Janis Ruksans NEW book 'The World of Crocuses' I believe that soon the Alpine Garden Society in the UK will be stocking Janis' book to sell. ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.8007 / Virus Database: 4756/14125 - Release Date: 03/16/17 From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Thu, 16 Mar 2017 19:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <000801d29ec0$413dbc00$c3b93400$@gmail.com> From: "Peter Franks" Subject: Janis Ruksans NEW book 'The World of Crocuses' Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2017 12:46:07 +1100 Hi All For those in Australia and New Zealand, Florilegium Bookstore in Sydney has supplies of the new Ruksans book on the way Peter in soggy Sydney [soft Irish weather for St Patrick's Day] -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Hansen Nursery Sent: Friday, 17 March 2017 8:53 AM To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Subject: Re: [pbs] Janis Ruksans NEW book 'The World of Crocuses' That's great news! Keep us informed. It would hopefully be easier for Janis if someone is handling the sale so he can get on with more important stuff! Like writing more books! Robin Hansen robin@hansennursery.com -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of youngs Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 1:58 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Janis Ruksans NEW book 'The World of Crocuses' I believe that soon the Alpine Garden Society in the UK will be stocking Janis' book to sell. ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.8007 / Virus Database: 4756/14125 - Release Date: 03/16/17 From msittner@mcn.org Thu, 16 Mar 2017 22:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <9c5ce17c-0967-dfb4-17d8-7b4254620676@mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Tigridia pavonia Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2017 22:02:11 -0700 When I lived in Stockton, California I grew Tigridia pavonia in raised beds with perennial flowers. It came back year after year and produced a succession of flowers. I haven't had a lot of luck growing it successfully in coastal Northern California where we get much more rain in winter and summer temperatures are cooler, especially at night. Purchased bulbs I put in the ground didn't reappear so I tried growing some from seed and keeping them in pots. I had some success with that, but very few flowers and nothing in subsequent years. Still, when I saw the photos of Ellen's 'Sunset in Oz' I was smitten and so when I saw if offered in the NARGS seed exchange I decided it would be worth it if I got to see a couple of flowers. And I was curious what they would look like. I had discovered from my other experiences growing this species from seed that it was possible to get it to bloom the first year if you transplanted it up to a deeper pot after it came up and fertilized it. I sowed seed on February 22 and seedlings started emerging on April 15. The first flowers appeared in September. Five bulbs bloomed that month. Luckily I was home as the flowers only last for part of a day. Two of them resembled the cultivar and the other three did not. The following month a second flower was produced on two of the plants. And that was it. Seven flowers lasting less than a day. I moved the pot into my greenhouse so it could be dry over the winter and didn't repot. The second year there were lots of leaves and only one flower one day. But it was a beautiful red and it happened on my husband's birthday so that was special. I moved the pot in the greenhouse again when it went dormant and recently I unpotted and discovered there were lots of bulbs of different sizes which really surprised me. I probably should give it up as I obviously don't have the right climate to grow these, but I'm giving them one more chance and planted a few of them out and a few in a pot and am sending the rest to Dell for the BX. If they can flower from seed in months, it would seem there would be a chance for smaller bulbs to flower this year. I added photos of my 8 flowers to the wiki. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Tigridia_pavonia#Sunset After years of drought we've had a lot of rain and some things are flowering that I haven't seen for years so that is very exciting. Mary Sue From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Fri, 17 Mar 2017 03:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <188595421.3263328.1489742564305@mail.yahoo.com> From: Anders Bo Petersen via pbs Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs (norton cuba melly) - pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 2 Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2017 09:22:44 +0000 (UTC) Regarding Ismene amancaes... I was one of the lucky ones who obtained one of the bulbs from Peter (Rare Plants UK) a couple of years ago.My experience is still very limited. The plant wakes up in June and goes dormant from September. During dormant season I give my it a bit of water now and then (I have been told recently that you also have to do it with the winter form of Paramongaia weberbaueri).As a growing media I use a cactus mixture which it seems to like.Regards Anders B. PetersenCopenhagen, Denmark Den 15:07 mandag den 6. marts 2017 skrev norton cuba melly : Good morning everyone or good evening/night depending where you are: >About the watering process, I water all of my plant recipients by capilarity, to my experience its more water efficient, it also guides the water more directly to the roots or bulbs, it avoids soil compaction and washing all the nutrients away. > Regarding amancaes flowering, the flower spike does appear first what is known in botany as hysteranthous, after the first flower opens the leaves grow pretty quickly and since the flower last 3 or 4 days the leave have that time to grow, plus older bulbs produce at least 8 flowers, and not all of them open at the same time, so there is plenty of time for the leaves to come up, if you see the leaves grow first  that means that the bulb wont flower that year. Im not a botanist or a biologist so my answer is according to what I´ve seen in the field. Hope that answers your question. Best regards Norton Lima, Peru ________________________________ From: pbs on behalf of Bruce Schroder Sent: Monday, March 6, 2017 3:31 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Ismene amancaes bulbs (norton cuba melly) - pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 2 >So, in answer to his question, perhaps it is a matter of just replicating nature by increasing the humidity and watering ever so lightly (misting?) at the same time of the year that the fogs start rolling in off the Pacific ocean. >One thing that does intrigue me about the cycle of this species though is that it is reported that in its natural habitat it sends up its flower spike and flower before the leaves appear yet every habitat photo I have seen (including Norton's 2 misty shots posted on the PBS wiki) show the plants in peak flowering whilst in full leaf.  Perhaps you could elaborate on this Norton? Bruce Schroder Melbourne, Australia _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rdevries@comcast.net Fri, 17 Mar 2017 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <8722426A-E915-4FFC-9EBC-A151E8EE679C@comcast.net> From: Rimmer deVries Subject: Tigridia pavonia Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2017 08:58:40 -0400 Hi Mary Sue, i use dahlia culture to grow these here in Michigan where we get hot summers and frigid winters i plant them in the open garden in early June when the clay soil is warn and water them well all summer, no water means no flowers. they bloom in July August Sept. I dig them when it gets cold and put the bulbs with dirt clods in a box or bag with crumpled newspapers and store in basement all winter at 50-60ºF and plant them next June, some dry out but the dirt clods on the bulbs and the newspapers keep them all from drying out. i have been doing this for over 5 years. i may soak the bulbs for a hour before planting if they look to desiccated. see http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2013Sep281380401493IRG45September2013.pdf Rimmer SE MI Zone 5-6 > On Mar 17, 2017, at 1:02 AM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > > When I lived in Stockton, California I grew Tigridia pavonia in raised beds with perennial flowers. It came back year after year and produced a succession of flowers. I haven't had a lot of luck growing it successfully in coastal Northern California where we get much more rain in winter and summer temperatures are cooler, especially at night. Purchased bulbs I put in the ground didn't reappear so I tried growing some from seed and keeping them in pots. I had some success with that, but very few flowers and nothing in subsequent years. Still, when I saw the photos of Ellen's 'Sunset in Oz' I was smitten and so when I saw if offered in the NARGS seed exchange I decided it would be worth it if I got to see a couple of flowers. And I was curious what they would look like. I had discovered from my other experiences growing this species from seed that it was possible to get it to bloom the first year if you transplanted it up to a deeper pot after it came up and fertilized it. I sowed seed on February 22 and seedlings started emerging on April 15. The first flowers appeared in September. Five bulbs bloomed that month. Luckily I was home as the flowers only last for part of a day. Two of them resembled the cultivar and the other three did not. The following month a second flower was produced on two of the plants. And that was it. Seven flowers lasting less than a day. > > I moved the pot into my greenhouse so it could be dry over the winter and didn't repot. The second year there were lots of leaves and only one flower one day. But it was a beautiful red and it happened on my husband's birthday so that was special. > > I moved the pot in the greenhouse again when it went dormant and recently I unpotted and discovered there were lots of bulbs of different sizes which really surprised me. I probably should give it up as I obviously don't have the right climate to grow these, but I'm giving them one more chance and planted a few of them out and a few in a pot and am sending the rest to Dell for the BX. If they can flower from seed in months, it would seem there would be a chance for smaller bulbs to flower this year. I added photos of my 8 flowers to the wiki. > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Tigridia_pavonia#Sunset > > After years of drought we've had a lot of rain and some things are flowering that I haven't seen for years so that is very exciting. > > Mary Sue _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From david@davidpilling.com Fri, 17 Mar 2017 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <042e43ea-baae-039d-5f1f-ebad9a4fdf16@davidpilling.com> From: David Pilling Subject: Dryad Nursery and Esker Farm daffodils Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2017 13:46:05 +0000 Hi, The list blocked a message from Anne at Dryad Nursery saying: "Our friends at Esker Farm Daffodils www.eskerfarmdaffodils.com have just released their 2017 catalogue of standard size daffodils, containing superb varieties for garden and exhibition. We hope you will support this fledgling nursery, who are set to become a very popular source of quality bulbs, including many not obtainable elsewhere." It is based in Northern Ireland. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Fri, 17 Mar 2017 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <5fdeec37-2392-b805-5cb5-c8449cb62786@btinternet.com> From: youngs Subject: Dryad Nursery and Esker Farm daffodils Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2017 18:19:31 +0000 USA narcissus fans may be aware that Julia Hardy of Esker Farm was recently in Sacramento with flowers to display at the ADS show. M. Y. From garak@code-garak.de Sat, 18 Mar 2017 00:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <611fd78b-b4d2-fc45-0d5a-4402bd01ce79@code-garak.de> From: Garak Subject: Tigridia pavonia Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2017 07:56:09 +0100 Hi, I agree that water is the key to Tigridia Pavonia - they do need a lot of it in my middle European summers, at least whenever the continental climate coming from the east is dominant. During winter they actually tolerate a lot - even seedlings can be kept dry without any protection, just laying openly in a shelf in the basement. As they are indeed easy from seed, i sometimes leave some deliberately out in my Zone 7, rather wet winters - they have a good chance to return if the winter was mild - I've yet to see if they survived the 3 weeks of severe frost this January. Rimmer, I don't know when your last frost is to be expected - for me it's in the middle of May, so I plant the Tigridias at the beginning of April - they start flowering mid June. Late frosts are definitely not a problem for emerging foliage. I wonder if your vegetation period is long enough for them? do they diminish for you ? The same routine works for me with Tigridia vanHouttei and Cypella herbertii - the latter one has the very nice habit of giving a second flower spike in fall, which Tigridias never do for me. Unfortunately, I had to find out that Tigridia orthantha needs better protection from drying out. -- Martin ---------------------------------------------- Southern Germany Likely zone 7a Am 17.03.2017 um 13:58 schrieb Rimmer deVries: > Hi Mary Sue, i use dahlia culture to grow these here in Michigan where we get hot summers and frigid winters > > i plant them in the open garden in early June when the clay soil is warn and water them well all summer, no water means no flowers. they bloom in July August Sept. > I dig them when it gets cold and put the bulbs with dirt clods in a box or bag with crumpled newspapers and store in basement all winter at 50-60ºF and plant them next June, some dry out but the dirt clods on the bulbs and the newspapers keep them all from drying out. i have been doing this for over 5 years. i may soak the bulbs for a hour before planting if they look to desiccated. > > see http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2013Sep281380401493IRG45September2013.pdf > > Rimmer > SE MI > Zone 5-6 > > >> On Mar 17, 2017, at 1:02 AM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: >> >> When I lived in Stockton, California I grew Tigridia pavonia in raised beds with perennial flowers. It came back year after year and produced a succession of flowers. I haven't had a lot of luck growing it successfully in coastal Northern California where we get much more rain in winter and summer temperatures are cooler, especially at night. Purchased bulbs I put in the ground didn't reappear so I tried growing some from seed and keeping them in pots. I had some success with that, but very few flowers and nothing in subsequent years. Still, when I saw the photos of Ellen's 'Sunset in Oz' I was smitten and so when I saw if offered in the NARGS seed exchange I decided it would be worth it if I got to see a couple of flowers. And I was curious what they would look like. I had discovered from my other experiences growing this species from seed that it was possible to get it to bloom the first year if you transplanted it up to a deeper pot after it came up and fertilized it. I sowed seed on February 22 and seedlings started emerging on April 15. The first flowers appeared in September. Five bulbs bloomed that month. Luckily I was home as the flowers only last for part of a day. Two of them resembled the cultivar and the other three did not. The following month a second flower was produced on two of the plants. And that was it. Seven flowers lasting less than a day. >> >> I moved the pot into my greenhouse so it could be dry over the winter and didn't repot. The second year there were lots of leaves and only one flower one day. But it was a beautiful red and it happened on my husband's birthday so that was special. >> >> I moved the pot in the greenhouse again when it went dormant and recently I unpotted and discovered there were lots of bulbs of different sizes which really surprised me. I probably should give it up as I obviously don't have the right climate to grow these, but I'm giving them one more chance and planted a few of them out and a few in a pot and am sending the rest to Dell for the BX. If they can flower from seed in months, it would seem there would be a chance for smaller bulbs to flower this year. I added photos of my 8 flowers to the wiki. >> >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Tigridia_pavonia#Sunset >> >> After years of drought we've had a lot of rain and some things are flowering that I haven't seen for years so that is very exciting. >> >> Mary Sue > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- Martin ---------------------------------------------- Southern Germany Likely zone 7a _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From totototo@telus.net Sat, 18 Mar 2017 20:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <58CDF6A9.301@telus.net> From: Rodger Whitlock Subject: Anemone caucasica - garden ecology Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2017 20:10:33 -0700 I've grown this charming little anemone (like a pint-size version of A. blanda) for quite a long time, starting with bulbs from Czechoslovakia. Over the years I've put seedlings in various locations and this year I can see a huge difference in their performance in flower. The best are in a rich heavy soil under the eaves of a large witch hazel. Those under a deodar cedar, while they've lasted a long time, do not flower as well. Nor do those in a spot with brilliant summer sun. I believe the moral is obvious. From garak@code-garak.de Sat, 18 Mar 2017 23:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Garak Subject: Fwd: Re: Tigridia pavonia Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2017 06:38:39 +0100 -------- Weitergeleitete Nachricht -------- Betreff: Re: [pbs] Tigridia pavonia Datum: Sat, 18 Mar 2017 13:49:24 +0100 Von: Garak An: Rimmer deVries Hi Rimmer, vanHouttei is the most uncomplicated of them all - it germinates in only 10 days (at least my own fresh seeds did so this year, I usually start Tigridieae at the beginning of March). Young Vanhouttei bulbs I tend to keep i their pots in first winter, adults can be stored completely dry and without any protection. For me, they start to bloom slightly later than Pavonia. I don't keep them as wet as you seem to, but they're doing fine for me - On the other hand, I guess I should give my chiapiensis more water - it's another species I lost in their first winter on first try. As for Venusta, I started some last year, together with some other species from the same source - I'm somewhat suspicious, as most of those species showed that heavily splitting that is typical for pavonia - vanHouttei does very rarely form any offsets, even on mature bulbs - and looked all very similar - which again is not uncommon for Tigridia. I guess I'll see this year, as the bulbs all seemed rather big enough to flower this year with some fertilization. I have a feeling that I'm in for a lot of very expensive Pavonias, but you have to believe i the good in the people.... Martin Am 18.03.2017 um 12:33 schrieb Rimmer deVries: > Hi Martin > our last frost is about the same as yours in mid May. the only diminishment i get is from some bulbs drying out too much in winter. as far as Tigridia Pavonia, i started with 1 or 2 pieces of Ellen Horing “Sunset in Oz” from BX 272 (April 2011) and that has increased to about 5 clumps in various parts of the yard and i think i even donated some to the BX in the past, so it has increased well. > > do you know anything about Tigridia chiapensi, van-houttei, orthantha or venusta? i have seed to start. > > Tigridia chiapensis, for me loves water when in growth hot summer, so much i keep it in a basin with hymenocallis > Tigridia van-houttei sits next to chiapensis in a basin > Does anyone know anything about Tigridia venusta? the internet reports it "inhabits the understory in pine-oak forests in an altitudinal range from 2080 to 2800 m.” > from this statement i suspect it likes sandy soil and probably not hot conditions > > when would you start seeds of Tigridia chiapensi, van-houttei, orthantha or venusta? now or May > > Thanks you > Rimmer > west of Detroit, MI > zone 5/6 > > > > -- Martin ---------------------------------------------- Southern Germany Likely zone 7a _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rdevries@comcast.net Sun, 19 Mar 2017 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <2F03B4A5-D71A-4180-A4B8-E75C4A0E2D9F@comcast.net> From: Rimmer deVries Subject: Tigridia chiapensis (was Tigridia pavonia) Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2017 09:02:22 -0400 i just looked and my Tigridia chiapensis did not survive winter dry winter storage in a pot at 50-60ºF - completely desiccated Rimmer _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jgglatt@gmail.com Sun, 19 Mar 2017 07:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Big Box Tigridia and Philly Flower Show Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2017 10:14:19 -0400 Lowes has had their bags of summer bulbs out for a few weeks. How could I resist 50 tigridia (25 Aurea and 25 Speciosa red) for $11.99. Nicely contained in separate bags well cushioned with wood shavings. They're sitting on my desk, adjacent to the computer where I can look at them and think "summer" rather than stare out the window at snow. Back in 2002 when I was in Holland for the International Stauden Union meeting there was a *field* of tigridia near our hotel. I got a few pictures, meant to take more but the field was harvested first. Went to the Philadelphia Flower Show on Monday. This year's theme was (is, actually, today is the last day) Holland, Coloring the World. As you might expect there were lots of tulips and lots of orange. In my estimation it was a better show than the previous few that I attended. They even had a competitive horticultural class for Amorphophallus konjac. If you want to look here's a link to the entry on my website: http://www.bellewood-gardens.com/2017/Visit to Philadelphia Flower Show_2017-03.html Judy in New Jersey where early fruit tree flower buds have again succumbed to the weather and I expect my Fritillaria thunbergii did likewise. Freesia alba in bloom in greenhouse though - thank you, Mary Sue From jgglatt@gmail.com Sun, 19 Mar 2017 10:17:44 -0700 Message-Id: From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Issue With My Website Link? Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2017 12:29:44 -0400 I got an email from a friend who pointed out that the link I provided to my website entry about the Philadelphia Flower Show does not work. He went to the website gateway page where there are links to the three most recent entries and that worked. Can someone tell me the protocol for replacing spaces in a name. Elsewhere I have used %20 - is this also suitable for PBS? Is it "wrong" to provide a link to a personal site? Does this A Visit to the Philadelphia Flower Show work? Thank you to anyone who can help me with this. I muddle though HTML coding but am not expert by any means. From vkmyrick@pacbell.net Sun, 19 Mar 2017 10:17:44 -0700 Message-Id: <365EE094-C721-4D05-8676-CC96502ABE8A@pacbell.net> From: Jack and Val Subject: Issue With My Website Link? Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2017 09:44:03 -0700 Enjoyed your link very much. Val On Mar 19, 2017, at 9:29 AM, Judy Glattstein wrote: > I got an email from a friend who pointed out that the link I provided to my website entry about the Philadelphia Flower Show does not work. He went to the website gateway page where there are links to the three most recent entries and that worked. > > Can someone tell me the protocol for replacing spaces in a name. Elsewhere I have used %20 - is this also suitable for PBS? Is it "wrong" to provide a link to a personal site? > > Does this A Visit to the Philadelphia Flower Show work? > > Thank you to anyone who can help me with this. I muddle though HTML coding but am not expert by any means. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From david@davidpilling.com Sun, 19 Mar 2017 10:17:44 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Issue With My Website Link? Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2017 17:03:02 +0000 Hi Judy, On 19/03/2017 16:29, Judy Glattstein wrote: > Does this A Visit to the Philadelphia Flower Show > > work? Yes. You'll often see when I quote a link here I also give a short form - this is because someone's email program is going to mangle long versions, and we then play "the link doesn't work" You can use Google URL shortener or Tiny URL (and others). Your original URL had spaces in, difficult for an email program to know the difference between a URL with spaces in and spaces that mark the end of the URL. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Sun, 19 Mar 2017 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1376045075.5366706.1489946811084@mail.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Issue With My Website Link? Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2017 18:06:51 +0000 (UTC) This works fine too ?????? Brian From: Judy Glattstein To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Sunday, 19 March 2017, 16:29 Subject: [pbs] Issue With My Website Link? I got an email from a friend who pointed out that the link I provided to my website entry about the Philadelphia Flower Show does not work. He went to the website gateway page where there are links to the three most recent entries and that worked. Can someone tell me the protocol for replacing spaces in a name. Elsewhere I have used %20 - is this also suitable for PBS? Is it "wrong" to provide a link to a personal site? Does this A Visit to the Philadelphia Flower Show   work? Thank you to anyone who can help me with this. I muddle though HTML coding but am not expert by any means. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jane@deskhenge.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 05:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane Sargent Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 07:22:23 -0400 Here are some things I´m apparently not meant to grow. Some of them live outside already, though I didn´t plant them, and the government will just never be able to get rid of them by wishing. One of them (hogweed) was planted here on purpose by the Evil Plantsman, a kind of inlaw who usually dismounts from his car, takes a shovel out of his trunk, and plunders whatever of mine is blooming and rare, without even asking. Perhaps I should extirpate the hogweed, but it reminds me of the Tromso Palm that I so enjoy in northern Norway--might even be the same plant. I don´t know what the government has against the lowly Myosotis or the somewhat tropical iris. My question is whether any of the plants on this list are bulbs I should be steering clear of. Perhaps I should just extirpate the Evil Plantsman, but that´s against the law. http://www.mass.gov/eea/agencies/agr/farm-products/plants/massachusetts-prohibited-plant-list.html _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hornig@oswego.edu Mon, 20 Mar 2017 05:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 07:55:17 -0400 You can't import, sell, trade or distribute plants on the Massachusetts prohibited list. If they're already on your property, you aren't obliged to eradicate them (and even if you wanted to, good luck! Though I think you DO want to eradicate giant hogweed, if you possibly can). Some of the entries are laughable. Hesperis matronalis? It's already everywhere. Regulations will not make a dent. O well. Ellen (in Massachusetts) On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 7:22 AM, Jane Sargent wrote: > Here are some things I´m apparently not meant to grow. Some of them live > outside already, though I didn´t plant them, and the government will just > never be able to get rid of them by wishing. One of them (hogweed) was > planted here on purpose by the Evil Plantsman, a kind of inlaw who usually > dismounts from his car, takes a shovel out of his trunk, and plunders > whatever of mine is blooming and rare, without even asking. Perhaps I > should extirpate the hogweed, but it reminds me of the Tromso Palm that I > so enjoy in northern Norway--might even be the same plant. I don´t know > what the government has against the lowly Myosotis or the somewhat tropical > iris. > > My question is whether any of the plants on this list are bulbs I should > be steering clear of. > > Perhaps I should just extirpate the Evil Plantsman, but that´s against the > law. > > http://www.mass.gov/eea/agencies/agr/farm-products/plants/ > massachusetts-prohibited-plant-list.html > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From david@davidpilling.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 05:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <4d72926d-cce1-45fd-ac1c-62b52cdacf36@davidpilling.com> From: David Pilling Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 12:01:02 +0000 Hi, On 20/03/2017 11:22, Jane Sargent wrote: > My question is whether any of the plants on this list are bulbs I should > be steering clear of. "Cape tulip Homeria spp.; Morea spp." Copied exactly as it appears in the list. Interesting to compare what's banned there with what is banned here (UK). Giant hogweed is one in common. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <58cfd553.d3471c0a.e9bce.069f@mx.google.com> From: Peter Taggart Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 13:12:47 +0000 It is so easy to eradicate the giant hog weed by preventing it from seeding. It is a biennial I believe, and has been a plant in the garden, which I have known for 45 years without problems. The sap is quite nasty in strong sunlight though! Peter, (uk) -----Original Message----- From: "David Pilling" Sent: ‎20/‎03/‎2017 12:02 To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Subject: Re: [pbs] prohibited plants Hi, On 20/03/2017 11:22, Jane Sargent wrote: > My question is whether any of the plants on this list are bulbs I should > be steering clear of. "Cape tulip Homeria spp.; Morea spp." Copied exactly as it appears in the list. Interesting to compare what's banned there with what is banned here (UK). Giant hogweed is one in common. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ldiane.whitehead@gmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 09:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <39F1DAEC-A1BD-400E-919B-BBC176A7E265@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 08:31:00 -0700 I am very impressed. I thought Massachusetts was a cold place, yet rice is one of your prohibited weeds. And look at all those African plants that have invaded. Why isn't the deadly Conium maculatum on the list? Our city had a child die from eating a bit of it. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada From ldiane.whitehead@gmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 09:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <8521FBE9-3923-4529-9385-919CAC08DA7F@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 08:37:18 -0700 On 2017-03-20, at 4:55 AM, Ellen Hornig wrote: > Hesperis matronalis? It's already > everywhere. Regulations will not make a dent. O well. > I always make sure I have some Hesperis matronalis growing as it is an important nectar source for a couple of species of swallowtail butterflies. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Mon, 20 Mar 2017 09:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <365664345.5165738.1490025527341@mail.yahoo.com> From: Kathy Stockman via pbs Subject: Germinating seeds Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 15:58:47 +0000 (UTC) Thank you to the person who recommended coir for seed starting. My attempt this year to use a commercial seed starting mix was an abysmal failure given my conditions and the coir germination rate has been remarkable. From hornig@oswego.edu Mon, 20 Mar 2017 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 13:59:36 -0400 Re Cyclamen coum as an invasive: in Oswego, NY, it escaped into my lawn and grew lustily and adorably. I then started hastening the process by tossing handfuls of seed around. I like to imagine some future owner (or the current one - it's been almost 5 years) cursing my memory as he pondered "them little pink things" and wondered how to get rid of them.... Ellen Hornig On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 2:03 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > Speaking of states that have inexplicable "invasive plant" lists, in > Oregon Cyclamen coum is on the list. > > Jane McGary > > Portland, Oregon, where C. coum has indeed invaded about a meter away. > > > > > On 3/20/2017 4:55 AM, Ellen Hornig wrote: > >> You can't import, sell, trade or distribute plants on the Massachusetts >> prohibited list. If they're already on your property, you aren't obliged >> to eradicate them (and even if you wanted to, good luck! Though I think >> you DO want to eradicate giant hogweed, if you possibly can). >> >> Some of the entries are laughable. Hesperis matronalis? It's already >> everywhere. Regulations will not make a dent. O well. >> >> Ellen (in Massachusetts) >> >> On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 7:22 AM, Jane Sargent wrote: >> >> Here are some things I´m apparently not meant to grow. Some of them live >>> outside already, though I didn´t plant them, and the government will just >>> never be able to get rid of them by wishing. One of them (hogweed) was >>> planted here on purpose by the Evil Plantsman, a kind of inlaw who >>> usually >>> dismounts from his car, takes a shovel out of his trunk, and plunders >>> whatever of mine is blooming and rare, without even asking. Perhaps I >>> should extirpate the hogweed, but it reminds me of the Tromso Palm that I >>> so enjoy in northern Norway--might even be the same plant. I don´t know >>> what the government has against the lowly Myosotis or the somewhat >>> tropical >>> iris. >>> >>> My question is whether any of the plants on this list are bulbs I should >>> be steering clear of. >>> >>> Perhaps I should just extirpate the Evil Plantsman, but that´s against >>> the >>> law. >>> >>> http://www.mass.gov/eea/agencies/agr/farm-products/plants/ >>> massachusetts-prohibited-plant-list.html >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 20 Mar 2017 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 11:03:21 -0700 Speaking of states that have inexplicable "invasive plant" lists, in Oregon Cyclamen coum is on the list. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, where C. coum has indeed invaded about a meter away. On 3/20/2017 4:55 AM, Ellen Hornig wrote: > You can't import, sell, trade or distribute plants on the Massachusetts > prohibited list. If they're already on your property, you aren't obliged > to eradicate them (and even if you wanted to, good luck! Though I think > you DO want to eradicate giant hogweed, if you possibly can). > > Some of the entries are laughable. Hesperis matronalis? It's already > everywhere. Regulations will not make a dent. O well. > > Ellen (in Massachusetts) > > On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 7:22 AM, Jane Sargent wrote: > >> Here are some things I´m apparently not meant to grow. Some of them live >> outside already, though I didn´t plant them, and the government will just >> never be able to get rid of them by wishing. One of them (hogweed) was >> planted here on purpose by the Evil Plantsman, a kind of inlaw who usually >> dismounts from his car, takes a shovel out of his trunk, and plunders >> whatever of mine is blooming and rare, without even asking. Perhaps I >> should extirpate the hogweed, but it reminds me of the Tromso Palm that I >> so enjoy in northern Norway--might even be the same plant. I don´t know >> what the government has against the lowly Myosotis or the somewhat tropical >> iris. >> >> My question is whether any of the plants on this list are bulbs I should >> be steering clear of. >> >> Perhaps I should just extirpate the Evil Plantsman, but that´s against the >> law. >> >> http://www.mass.gov/eea/agencies/agr/farm-products/plants/ >> massachusetts-prohibited-plant-list.html >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From robin@hansennursery.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 12:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <000c01d2a1a8$0a0ff000$1e2fd000$@hansennursery.com> From: "Hansen Nursery" Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 11:30:23 -0700 Hmm, I've heard Cyclamen coum is a problem on Vancouver Island, but I'm curious as to where Oregon Dept. of Agriculture got the idea to add it to the list... Think I will check with my nursery inspector because this is news to me. I do see how C. coum could become a problem in certain climates. Good question to ask of everyone - how do you get rid of Cyclamen if they become pests, or any bulb for that matter? Robin Hansen Hansen Nursery robin@hansennursery.com From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 12:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 11:49:44 -0700 > Good question to ask of everyone - how do you get rid of Cyclamen if they become pests.... Plant it in my garden. The Massachusetts list is a little humorous. Many of those plants would have no chance in even a mild Massachusetts winter. Leo Martin Zone 9? Phoenix Arizona USA From ldiane.whitehead@gmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 12:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <7C020351-3AB3-45CA-9241-0796DDCD2830@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 12:15:39 -0700 On 2017-03-20, at 11:30 AM, Hansen Nursery wrote: > Hmm, I've heard Cyclamen coum is a problem on Vancouver Island..... I do see how C. coum could become a problem in certain climates. > > Good question to ask of everyone - how do you get rid of Cyclamen if they become pests, or any bulb for that matter? > No one here has complained. We enjoy them. C neapolitanum as well as coum. They tend to grow along road verges, as ants move the seeds. One beautiful stretch was dug out and trucked away because the road was being widened. If I had noticed in time, I'd have rescued the cyclamen. I wonder where that truckload of soil ended up? It could have resulted in a nice surprise for someone. We also have big clumps of Galanthus elwesii along shady roads. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada From kathleen.sayce@gmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 22:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <8EBB6C55-C325-41C5-9472-1DE775B201FE@gmail.com> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 12:30:33 -0700 This thread of comments re prohibited plants has me giggling, I must admit. Cyclamen as weeds? Terrifically easy to extirpate—just dig out the corms. As for Oregon’s lists of noxious plant species, this state includes native species as noxious weeds. I suspect it’s been too easy to get particular plants onto this list in past decades, including too little review of pertinent details, such as natural distribution, toxicity, and ease of control. As for species to avoid, this is the top of my list: Homeria/Watsonia is a thug for me, spreads terrifically easily by seed, seedlings burrow as though jet propelled to depths beyond normal digging (ten-twelve inches). Hyacinthoides xmassartina, same issues as above; fast burrowing seedlings to depths of more than ten inches. I can catch them only in the first 1-2 years, after that they are too deep for easy removal. The smallest fragment left behind results in large clumps of more bulbs. Zandeschia ethiopia, Calla Lily; ever tried to dig out a clump? I have, and the tubers can be more than 22-26 inches deep. Allium roseum; tiny darned bulbs, miss one and you have a clump in two years. I’ve dug and screened them out of one area 3 times and still they keep coming back. Kathleen PNW, where it’s been a long, wet muddy winter, with no end yet in sight. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From kathleen.sayce@gmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 22:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: fussy plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 12:34:35 -0700 Anemone blanda is a lovely early flowering bulb that I formerly purchased, flats and bags of bulbs at a time, only to watch them fade away in the next couple of years. Then one year, seeds from a fast fading clump in a bed above a gravel walkway fell to the gravel and germinated. Now I have a patch of 5 or more Anemone blanda (blue flowered) plants in gravel. Given the long wet winters, I suspect the gravel provides enough drainage, and keeps this flower, when dormant, from rotting. Kathleen From totototo@telus.net Mon, 20 Mar 2017 13:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <58D02FF6.1090807@telus.net> From: Rodger Whitlock Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 12:39:34 -0700 On 17-03-20 11:30 AM, "Hansen Nursery" wrote: > Hmm, I've heard Cyclamen coum is a problem on Vancouver Island... I've heard that it's on BC's prohibited plant list even though it's not invasive at all. Some bureaucrat apparently doesn't understand the distinction between "naturalizes" and "chokes out native plants". And, thanks to his or her ignorance, brings the law into disrepute. If a law makes people laugh, it's a dumb law Cyclamen coum will spread if your soil is not too acid and there's some moisture in summer. It grows naturally in the hazel nut orchards of Turkey. > Good question to ask of everyone - how do you get rid of Cyclamen if > they become pests, or any bulb for that matter? The answer varies. You do not get rid of Ornithogalum umbellatum, nor grape hyacinths, nor Crocus tommasinianus nor Nothoscordum inodorum. Others, dig them, pot them, price at $1 a potful, and put them out by the street with a sign. From teck11@embarqmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <00a101d2a1ba$842baed0$8c830c70$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 16:42:39 -0400 Probably 2,4 D the 'broadleaf' lawn treatment would do the trick, but not so much with other bulbs. Tim Eck > > Good question to ask of everyone - how do you get rid of Cyclamen if they > become pests, or any bulb for that matter? > > Robin Hansen > Hansen Nursery > robin@hansennursery.com > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janjeddeloh@gmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <8960C18B-7F1C-4595-8483-7E65D83AB019@gmail.com> From: Jan Jeddeloh Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 14:30:34 -0700 Hederifolium taking over Robin? They’ve done that for my Dad. He’s given up and just accepted that they’ll outlive him. They completely choked out the coum in the area. For a few years he had cyclamen flowers in the fall and spring but then hederifolium won the battle. Jan > On Mar 20, 2017, at 1:42 PM, Tim Eck wrote: > > Probably 2,4 D the 'broadleaf' lawn treatment would do the trick, but not so > much with other bulbs. > > Tim Eck > > > >> >> Good question to ask of everyone - how do you get rid of Cyclamen if they >> become pests, or any bulb for that matter? >> >> Robin Hansen >> Hansen Nursery >> robin@hansennursery.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From garak@code-garak.de Mon, 20 Mar 2017 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Garak Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 22:44:19 +0100 at least Germany seems not hysterical about forbidden plants - for us it's mostly about the classical drugs - only trouble about that: it's actually quite difficult to get rid of Papaver somniferum in some areas, as many gardeners allow it for the pretty flowers and rather beautiful seed heads - and try to keep that seedmonster under control if both neighbors have it seeding freely... there is a EU list of 37 "unwanted" species, plants and animals, which definitely is not present in the awareness of the public, with the most known and obvious plant candidates would be once again 2 Heracleums, Eichornia Crassipes and, surprise, Kudzu. Most interesting for the List should be Lysichiton americanus. I have no idea if this is enforced in any way - I guess the racoons on the animal side of the list would choke to death from laughing at the idea anyone could get rid of them... -- Martin ---------------------------------------------- Southern Germany Likely zone 7a From sd142@iprimus.com.au Mon, 20 Mar 2017 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <2795DA85-E884-45EE-89B7-54B3F4FB92DD@iprimus.com.au> From: Shaun Douglas Subject: Germinating seeds Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 08:57:42 +1100 I have also changed over from seed raising mix to other products coir, washed river sand $ sphagnum moss 100% germination rate perlite with soil I have been getting any where from 0%. -70% with professional propagation soils iPhone 6 Shaund > On 21 Mar 2017, at 2:58 am, Kathy Stockman via pbs wrote: > > Thank you to the person who recommended coir for seed starting. My attempt this year to use a commercial seed starting mix was an abysmal failure given my conditions and the coir germination rate has been remarkable. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 16:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: <0CEB79B6-5393-4ABB-AC7C-4BFF80530CCC@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 17:25:25 -0500 Dear Friends These list are almost always ridiculous becuase they are made up by elected or volunteer plant lovers who are neither botanists, ecologists, taxonomists or any kind of scientist. They wouldn't know a Dandelion from an Endive in many cases. These list come together from rumors and newspapers of fabulous tales of some rare plant ‘taking over’ their back yard. Go to one of the state ‘Native Plant Facebook lists” and be amazed at the utter lack of knoweldge most people have about any plants and especially about what is “native”, ‘invasive”, “endangered” etc. It is unfortunate when any local or state entity gives these imaginary lists some official status without any kid of scientiifc or botanical review. Happens all the time. The proverbial ‘Grain of salt’ is needed big time when looking at these list, but some are hilariously wrong. Just don’t count on the lists as scientific fact. Jim W. On Mar 20, 2017, at 4:44 PM, Garak wrote: at least Germany seems not hysterical about forbidden plants - for us it's mostly about the classical drugs - only trouble about that: it's actually quite difficult to get rid of Papaver somniferum in some areas, as many gardeners allow it for the pretty flowers and rather beautiful seed heads - and try to keep that seedmonster under control if both neighbors have it seeding freely... there is a EU list of 37 "unwanted" species, plants and animals, which definitely is not present in the awareness of the public, with the most known and obvious plant candidates would be once again 2 Heracleums, Eichornia Crassipes and, surprise, Kudzu. Most interesting for the List should be Lysichiton americanus. I have no idea if this is enforced in any way - I guess the racoons on the animal side of the list would choke to death from laughing at the idea anyone could get rid of them... -- Martin ---------------------------------------------- Southern Germany Likely zone 7a Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From robin@hansennursery.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 16:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: <002701d2a1cd$58ad5d90$0a0818b0$@hansennursery.com> From: "Hansen Nursery" Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 15:57:26 -0700 " Hederifolium taking over Robin?" In reply to Jan Jeddeloh's comment - I must say that having tossed seed out a number of years ago amid the grass and weeds of my country lawn, both coum and hederifolium are reseeding gently. I do not water this area but given that we're six to seven months into the rain year beginning Sept. 1 with 66 or so inches when a normal year is 62-64 inches for 12 months, they could spread more rapidly, although they are on old dune (sand, basically) and what passes for full sun here at the coast. What I usually see is coum taking over much more rapidly than hederifolium so Jan's father's experience is certainly different. As for 2,4D, certainly it and Roundup or glyphosate used on Crocosmia is a worthless endeavor so far. Maybe my timing is wrong as I had success with glyphosate in early spring just when ivy was putting out new growth. Robin Hansen Hansen Nursery robin@hansennursery.com From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Mon, 20 Mar 2017 16:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: <365978826.32361.1490050963873@mail.yahoo.com> From: Khanh Duong via pbs Subject: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 23:02:43 +0000 (UTC) Hi All, You ought please to be aware, regards 'Invasive Species' Lists and similarly: 1) Some involved in compiling such lists are well-meaning, albeit perhaps sometimes naïve and/or easily-led (astray); 2) Some (many) may be DeLiberate'ly nefarious, with alterior motives - note that all of the motives are usually not conveyed with such invented 'legislation', they are stated fate fait acompli take it or be arrested.... Increasingly-many of the plants being placed on the 'Prohibited' Lists (inc. import/export) are those that would be conducive to humans being able to live wild and free from the landscape, much as Chenopodium quinoa was invented to be illegal for the Aztecs by The Invaders...so similarly plants are being added to these lists with a variety of ulterior motives (and, yes,  protect vested/corporate/blinkered interests). Many of the plants on the lists (or at least parts of them), and many STATEd as being 'Invasive', are usually Edible by humans and/or are useful in some other way, such as for timber, wood fuel, back-ups in case of loss of other species (e.g. Robinia pseudoacacia is on many lists world-wide, yet is a very useful plant to humans and to bees, readily coppiced and/or suckers, provides quality woodfuel and timber, and can act as a back-up if other tree species succumb to disease (e.g. Ash), yet who cares in the legislative commities, hmmm? If people live in the landscape, instead of being mandated to go to the shops for everything or else, then they would 'naturally' 'manage' such plants. Japanese Knotweed, Japanese Wineberry, Gaultheria shallon, as just three examples, are all edible and useful to humans, let-alone to Bears and other forms of life, and which would 'naturally' be 'gardened' by humans living 'naturally'. But such persons are largely disallowed, made 'illegal', by invented legislation. There are too many humans, and almost all such humans are unskilled and insensitive with regards to the natural world. and/or are used to 'living' indoors, shopping indoors, and  writing legislation indoors...That might not always to be case, however.; 3) Some may be incompetent;   4) It is invented to be LEGAL and LAWFUL (L-AWFUL) to industrially rape, pillage, plunder, pollute, exploit, enslave, smother, farm, fragment, frack, 'develop', buy, sell, and spy on and spy using the landscape, seas, skies, Planet(s), etc... and to invasively spread more bureaucrats and their henchpersons, more industrial estates, more roads, dams, housing estates, skysRAPERS, oil refineries, factories, warehouses, ports, etc... but it is invented to be illegal for some plants to eke out their apparent existence in what remains of the undermined fragmented polluted "DO YOU YIELD!? YIELD!! YIELD I SAY!" forced-to-yield Mother Earth...and the legislators are increasingly ordeRING those increasingly-few areas too... They can destroy Planet(s), but will invent legislation for you to be arrested for being honest, or dropping littler, or for J-Walking between Oil-Industry-provided nature-smothering nature-fragmenting roads and sidewalks... Perhaps many of the Invasive Species list creators should look into the Mirror when writing, and write what they see...? 5) A proportionately very few species (of those listed) ARE presently invasive, and are necessarily on the list. Note: Humans, including 'Expansionist-Agenda' human groups, are not yet on the 'Invasive Species' lists... Quite a blind spot, that... 6) Planting Seeds... Epi-Sowed  Episodes... Broadcast-Sting BroadcastS Sowing... Nursery Schools...TRAINING and Being TRAINed... Do you know your Planted Onions, and Plant-Dead Mould 'Made from Clay'. and can you BREAK THE MOLD MOULD...!?  Prohibited Plant-'S' takes on other  intensely practical and serious meaningS... PaSS this around, because they will (routinely do) invent to make the Truthful peoples illegal, just as they do the plants and animals just trying to live free... Those who seed and thus live as GOOD seed, so to speak, could be those who in the future are 'allowed' to 'inherit the Earth' as the proverbial saying goes, but there are very many who variously try to invent to make that illegal and for a price... Does that switch on any Pacific(-Northwest Great Bear Rainforest Widespread Rapacious Invasive Destruction/Logging) LIGHT Bulb SOCIETY('S')... Do you see the planted LIGHT Bulbs, or easily EA-Sill-'e' and artificially L.E.D.? 7) To reiterate: Some of those involved in compiling the Invasive Species lists are Well-Meaning, even if Naïve... All the Best, Chris.[today using an acquaintance's email address for this particular communication] On Monday, 20 March 2017, 22:25, James Waddick wrote: Dear Friends     These list are almost always ridiculous becuase they are made up by elected or volunteer plant lovers who are neither botanists, ecologists, taxonomists or any kind of scientist.  They wouldn't know a Dandelion from an Endive in many cases.     These list come together from rumors and newspapers of fabulous tales of some rare plant ‘taking over’ their back yard.     Go to one of the state ‘Native Plant  Facebook lists” and be amazed at the utter lack of knoweldge most people have about any plants and especially about what is “native”, ‘invasive”, “endangered” etc.     It is unfortunate when any local or state entity gives these imaginary lists some official status without any kid of scientiifc or botanical review. Happens all the time.     The proverbial ‘Grain of salt’ is needed big time when looking at these list, but some are hilariously wrong.         Just don’t count on the lists as scientific fact.         Jim W. On Mar 20, 2017, at 4:44 PM, Garak wrote: at least Germany seems not hysterical about forbidden plants - for us it's mostly about the classical drugs - only trouble about that: it's actually quite difficult to get rid of Papaver somniferum in some areas, as many gardeners allow it for the pretty flowers and rather beautiful seed heads - and try to keep that seedmonster under control if both neighbors have it seeding freely... there is a EU list of 37 "unwanted" species, plants and animals, which definitely is not present in the awareness of the public, with the most known and obvious plant candidates would be once again 2 Heracleums, Eichornia Crassipes and, surprise, Kudzu. Most interesting for the List should be Lysichiton americanus. I have no idea if this is enforced in any way - I guess the racoons on the animal side of the list would choke to death from laughing at the idea anyone could get rid of them... -- Martin ---------------------------------------------- Southern Germany Likely zone 7a Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone    816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From avbeek1@hotmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 16:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: From: Aad van Beek Subject: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 23:04:45 +0000 I find it equally frustrating that all those botanist, ecologist, taxonomist or scientist have there own ridiculous list of plants they don't want to share or make available to the public just for the sake of publishing an article in a journal that jan modaal (joe public, otto normalverbraucher) never reads. Aad On 3/20/2017 11:25 PM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Friends > These list are almost always ridiculous becuase they are made up by elected or volunteer plant lovers who are neither botanists, ecologists, taxonomists or any kind of scientist. They wouldn't know a Dandelion from an Endive in many cases. > > These list come together from rumors and newspapers of fabulous tales of some rare plant ‘taking over’ their back yard. > > Go to one of the state ‘Native Plant Facebook lists” and be amazed at the utter lack of knoweldge most people have about any plants and especially about what is “native”, ‘invasive”, “endangered” etc. > > It is unfortunate when any local or state entity gives these imaginary lists some official status without any kid of scientiifc or botanical review. Happens all the time. > > The proverbial ‘Grain of salt’ is needed big time when looking at these list, but some are hilariously wrong. Just don’t count on the lists as scientific fact. Jim W. > > > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 20 Mar 2017 16:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: <28a0090a-0d47-9f2f-4f49-1c6f28e5ceb1@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 16:22:52 -0700 I used to drive by a hazelnut (locally called "filbert") orchard in western Oregon that was carpeted with Muscari (probably M. azureum or M. armeniacum) in spring. Very pretty. I don't see Muscari invading wild areas, though. Jane McGary, Portland, Oregon On 3/20/2017 12:39 PM, Rodger Whitlock wrote: > > Cyclamen coum will spread if your soil is not too acid and there's > some moisture in summer. It grows naturally in the hazel nut orchards > of Turkey. From gentian21@volo.net Mon, 20 Mar 2017 17:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <6q9p0ca8mavf3n9fhc2f729f.1490054031650@email.android.com> From: gentian21 Subject: Cyclamen Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 18:53:51 -0500 What i would like to know is how to get cyclamen to self sow at all. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone From robin@hansennursery.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 17:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <004301d2a1d6$0c649f80$252dde80$@hansennursery.com> From: "Hansen Nursery" Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 16:59:44 -0700 Just one final comment. I have verified with Oregon Dept of Agriculture that Cyclamen coum is not on any Oregon noxious weed list and would like whoever has seen the claim to contact me privately if possible. Thank you, Robin Hansen Nursery robin@hansennursery.com From sd142@iprimus.com.au Mon, 20 Mar 2017 17:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Shaun Douglas Subject: Cyclamen Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 11:06:12 +1100 Cyclamen should self sow readily I have it popping up every where her in Melbourne Australia iPhone 6 Shaund > On 21 Mar 2017, at 10:53 am, gentian21 wrote: > > What i would like to know is how to get cyclamen to self sow at all. > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janjeddeloh@gmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 17:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <953D6C77-ED57-4395-905E-491977225971@gmail.com> From: Jan Jeddeloh Subject: prohibited plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 17:10:19 -0700 I’d guess coum likes a wetter soil than hederifolium hence its enthusiasm on the coast. For those not from the Pacific Northwest the Oregon, Washington and northern California Coast get rain year around while the Willamette Valley usually has three summer months with little to no rain. Jan > On Mar 20, 2017, at 3:57 PM, Hansen Nursery wrote: > > " Hederifolium taking over Robin?" In reply to Jan Jeddeloh's comment - I must say that having tossed seed out a number of years ago amid the grass and weeds of my country lawn, both coum and hederifolium are reseeding gently. I do not water this area but given that we're six to seven months into the rain year beginning Sept. 1 with 66 or so inches when a normal year is 62-64 inches for 12 months, they could spread more rapidly, although they are on old dune (sand, basically) and what passes for full sun here at the coast. > > What I usually see is coum taking over much more rapidly than hederifolium so Jan's father's experience is certainly different. As for 2,4D, certainly it and Roundup or glyphosate used on Crocosmia is a worthless endeavor so far. Maybe my timing is wrong as I had success with glyphosate in early spring just when ivy was putting out new growth. > > Robin Hansen > Hansen Nursery > robin@hansennursery.com > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hornig@oswego.edu Mon, 20 Mar 2017 18:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Cyclamen Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 20:16:51 -0400 Since they germinate best when fresh, and they ripen in early July or thereabouts, I'm thinking they self-sow best in places with moderate summer-to-fall temps (not baking hot), plenty of moisture during that period, and either fairly mild winters (PNW) or plenty of snow cover (upstate NY). Upstate NY does have an unusual climate for growing semi-hardy plants. When I lived there, I had cardiocrinums, several eucomis, most of the summer-rainfall kniphofia species, thousands of Cyclamen coum and hederifolium, amazing primulas, and - well, a lot of wonderful stuff. Here in Massachusetts, with its erratic snow cover and sandier and more acid soils, I can only grow a tiny subset of what I used to grow. The one up side I note is that Cyclamen purpurascens does much better here, and self sows with an abandon matched only by the squirrels' diligence in unearthing the seedlings. On the whole, though, this climate is more of a challenge. Ellen On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 7:53 PM, gentian21 wrote: > What i would like to know is how to get cyclamen to self sow at all. > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From merkity@gmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 18:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jennifer Longueville Subject: Cyclamen Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 17:18:03 -0700 i have some in the garden - it just keeps coming back... On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 5:06 PM, Shaun Douglas wrote: > Cyclamen should self sow readily > I have it popping up every where her in Melbourne Australia > > iPhone 6 > Shaund > > > On 21 Mar 2017, at 10:53 am, gentian21 wrote: > > > > What i would like to know is how to get cyclamen to self sow at all. > > > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From teck11@embarqmail.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 19:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <00dd01d2a1e1$95654040$c02fc0c0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 21:22:18 -0400 By far the coolest named invasive in Pennsylvania is "Rock Snot" (Didymosphenia geminate). Tim Eck From ceridwen@internode.on.net Tue, 21 Mar 2017 00:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <77FDCA54-0ED1-4400-BD5A-4DBB0A789A7B@internode.on.net> From: Ceridwen Lloyd Subject: Germinating seeds Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 12:17:56 +1030 So is it the added compost/nutrients that is the problem? I'm about to start my autumn showings with a DIY mix of peat, horticultural sand and vermiculite. Hopefully they will do ok with foliar feeding after germination. Ceridwen Sent from my iPhone > On 21 Mar 2017, at 8:27 am, Shaun Douglas wrote: > > I have also changed over from seed raising mix to other products coir, washed river sand $ sphagnum moss 100% germination rate perlite with soil > I have been getting any where from 0%. -70% with professional propagation soils > > iPhone 6 > Shaund > >> On 21 Mar 2017, at 2:58 am, Kathy Stockman via pbs wrote: >> >> Thank you to the person who recommended coir for seed starting. My attempt this year to use a commercial seed starting mix was an abysmal failure given my conditions and the coir germination rate has been remarkable. >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From msittner@mcn.org Mon, 20 Mar 2017 19:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Cyclamen Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 19:07:51 -0700 For me self sowing happens when I don't remove the seeds. Someone said that ants disperse the seeds. In my Northern California garden Cyclamen are popping up in places near and far to where original plants occur. I have lot of different species appearing. Cyclamen repandum is especially happy and can flower quickly from tiny tubers. I removed a tiny one starting to flower in a Zantedeschia pot I had moved under cover for the winter. I'm not sure how it got there. We have moderate summer temperatures winter and summer, but not plenty of moisture during the summer. It's very dry here usually starting some time in May until October and usually no rain at all in July and August. The last couple of years we could only water 10 minutes twice a week evening or early morning during the summer and since we have a lot of trees with roots that go after the water, that amount of water doesn't get the soil wet. Cyclamen leaves are appearing in places that didn't get any water (pathways.) So at least here plenty of moisture is not a requirement. Mary Sue On 3/20/2017 5:16 PM, Ellen Hornig wrote: > Since they germinate best when fresh, and they ripen in early July or > thereabouts, I'm thinking they self-sow best in places with moderate > summer-to-fall temps (not baking hot), plenty of moisture during that > period, and either fairly mild winters (PNW) or plenty of snow cover > (upstate NY). From garak@code-garak.de Mon, 20 Mar 2017 21:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Garak Subject: Cyclamen Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 04:29:09 +0100 In southern Germany it's only hederifolium that's self-sowing, since it's the only one that's reliably hardy. But for me it seems all the seedlings end up with corms laying on the ground, not underground - should I bury them deeper if i want to keep them? Martin Am 21.03.2017 um 03:07 schrieb Mary Sue Ittner: > For me self sowing happens when I don't remove the seeds. Someone said > that ants disperse the seeds. In my Northern California garden > Cyclamen are popping up in places near and far to where original > plants occur. I have lot of different species appearing. Cyclamen > repandum is especially happy and can flower quickly from tiny tubers. > I removed a tiny one starting to flower in a Zantedeschia pot I had > moved under cover for the winter. I'm not sure how it got there. We > have moderate summer temperatures winter and summer, but not plenty of > moisture during the summer. It's very dry here usually starting some > time in May until October and usually no rain at all in July and > August. The last couple of years we could only water 10 minutes twice > a week evening or early morning during the summer and since we have a > lot of trees with roots that go after the water, that amount of water > doesn't get the soil wet. Cyclamen leaves are appearing in places that > didn't get any water (pathways.) So at least here plenty of moisture > is not a requirement. > > Mary Sue > > > On 3/20/2017 5:16 PM, Ellen Hornig wrote: >> Since they germinate best when fresh, and they ripen in early July or >> thereabouts, I'm thinking they self-sow best in places with moderate >> summer-to-fall temps (not baking hot), plenty of moisture during that >> period, and either fairly mild winters (PNW) or plenty of snow cover >> (upstate NY). > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- Martin ---------------------------------------------- Southern Germany Likely zone 7a From ixia@dcsi.net.au Mon, 20 Mar 2017 21:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <003f01d2a1f3$822d7df0$868879d0$@net.au> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: Cyclamen Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 14:30:37 +1100 Here in Gippsland, Australia, Cyclamen self seed in my pots. Luckily I never got around to putting them into a garden bed. Anyway, they add a nice bit of color where you least expect it. Bill Richardson Ixiaking Gippsland Australia -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Tuesday, 21 March 2017 1:08 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Cyclamen For me self sowing happens when I don't remove the seeds. Someone said that ants disperse the seeds. In my Northern California garden Cyclamen are popping up in places near and far to where original plants occur. I have lot of different species appearing. Cyclamen repandum is especially happy and can flower quickly from tiny tubers. I removed a tiny one starting to flower in a Zantedeschia pot I had moved under cover for the winter. I'm not sure how it got there. We have moderate summer temperatures winter and summer, but not plenty of moisture during the summer. It's very dry here usually starting some time in May until October and usually no rain at all in July and August. The last couple of years we could only water 10 minutes twice a week evening or early morning during the summer and since we have a lot of trees with roots that go after the water, that amount of water doesn't get the soil wet. Cyclamen leaves are appearing in places that didn't get any water (pathways.) So at least here plenty of moisture is not a requirement. Mary Sue From penstemon@Q.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 22:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: Cyclamen Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 22:17:57 -0600 >In southern Germany it's only hederifolium that's self-sowing, since >it's the only one that's reliably hardy. But for me it seems all the >seedlings end up with corms laying on the ground, not underground - >should I bury them deeper if i want to keep them? Possibly. Here, the tubers of C. hederifolium are only a few millimeters below the surface of the soil. Cyclamen coum, which has finished flowering here, has self-sown by the hundreds, and when I go to dig up the seedlings I find that the tubers are often two to three centimeters deep. C. cilicicum and C. mirabile also self-sow, but not to the extent that coum does. C. intaminatum, C. purpurascens, and C. pseudibericum are also hardy here. C. confusum was, until the puppy dug up all the tubers and ate them, a couple of years ago. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA From penstemon@Q.com Mon, 20 Mar 2017 23:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: fussy plants Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2017 23:32:23 -0600 >Anemone blanda is a lovely early flowering bulb that I formerly purchased, flats and bags of bulbs at a time, only to watch them fade away in the next couple of years. Then one year, seeds from a fast >fading clump in a bed above a gravel walkway fell to the gravel and germinated. Now I have a patch of 5 or more Anemone blanda (blue flowered) plants in gravel. Another plant that self-sows all over the place here. Sometimes have to weed them out. (I just had to say that, because compared to the PNW we can hardly grow anything here.) Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA From erik@tepuidesign.com Tue, 21 Mar 2017 00:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Erik Van Lennep Subject: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 07:57:29 +0100 The official list used for legislation and prohibition in Spain actually includes some native plants! It looks like the work of a desktop researcher graduate student who cobbled together a somewhat random list of plants declared invasive across wildly varying geographies and habitats...probably those originally published in Spanish, many of which resulted from the "work" of others cutting and pasting. Thus native Catalan and Iberian species which were listed as problematic in Argentina are now forbidden for planting in their own country of origin. The world is insane. erik youth and elders short video http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> “I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.” —BARRY LOPEZ” On 20 March 2017 at 23:25, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Friends > These list are almost always ridiculous becuase they are made up > by elected or volunteer plant lovers who are neither botanists, ecologists, > taxonomists or any kind of scientist. They wouldn't know a Dandelion from > an Endive in many cases. > > These list come together from rumors and newspapers of fabulous > tales of some rare plant ‘taking over’ their back yard. > > Go to one of the state ‘Native Plant Facebook lists” and be > amazed at the utter lack of knoweldge most people have about any plants and > especially about what is “native”, ‘invasive”, “endangered” etc. > > It is unfortunate when any local or state entity gives these > imaginary lists some official status without any kid of scientiifc or > botanical review. Happens all the time. > > The proverbial ‘Grain of salt’ is needed big time when looking at > these list, but some are hilariously wrong. Just don’t count on > the lists as scientific fact. Jim W. > > > > > > On Mar 20, 2017, at 4:44 PM, Garak wrote: > > at least Germany seems not hysterical about forbidden plants - for us it's > mostly about the classical drugs - only trouble about that: it's actually > quite difficult to get rid of Papaver somniferum in some areas, as many > gardeners allow it for the pretty flowers and rather beautiful seed heads - > and try to keep that seedmonster under control if both neighbors have it > seeding freely... > > there is a EU list of 37 "unwanted" species, plants and animals, which > definitely is not present in the awareness of the public, with the most > known and obvious plant candidates would be once again 2 Heracleums, > Eichornia Crassipes and, surprise, Kudzu. Most interesting for the List > should be Lysichiton americanus. I have no idea if this is enforced in any > way - I guess the racoons on the animal side of the list would choke to > death from laughing at the idea anyone could get rid of them... > > -- > Martin > ---------------------------------------------- > Southern Germany > Likely zone 7a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > Dr. James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone 816-746-1949 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Tue, 21 Mar 2017 05:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <47FB436D-564C-4901-BCFA-BD85A2D3CBDC@aol.com> From: AnnaMae Miller via pbs Subject: Manfreda brunnea Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 07:54:47 -0400 Second time this week I've heard of this genus. I'm reading Kelly Norris's "Plants in Style ". I love his fun descriptions of so many perennials. He mentions 4 different man Fred as but not the one you're talking about. Did you open the Philadelphia Flower Show URL ? It's better than last one I went to. Are U and Xera going to Regional in Lafayette? Annamae Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 15, 2017, at 6:08 PM, dkramb wrote: > > Is anyone growing Manfreda brunnea that would be willing to share some pollen this spring? > > Thanks, > Dennis in Cincinnati > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Tue, 21 Mar 2017 05:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <110278552.426416.1490097988425@mail.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski via pbs Subject: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 12:06:28 +0000 (UTC) I had an officer come and take my ponciris trifoliate that I got from ebay (and I asked seller first if it was ok to receive). But then we have pythons and now at least one cobra running amuck in Florida.Go figure. James FrelichowskiCollege Station, TX On Tuesday, March 21, 2017 12:58 AM, Erik Van Lennep wrote: The official list used for legislation and prohibition in Spain actually includes some native plants! It looks like the work of a desktop researcher graduate student who cobbled together a somewhat random list of plants declared invasive across wildly varying geographies and habitats...probably those originally published in Spanish, many of which resulted from the "work" of others cutting and pasting. Thus native Catalan and Iberian species which were listed as problematic in Argentina are now forbidden for planting in their own country of origin. The world is insane. erik youth and elders short video http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> “I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.” —BARRY LOPEZ” On 20 March 2017 at 23:25, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Friends >        These list are almost always ridiculous becuase they are made up > by elected or volunteer plant lovers who are neither botanists, ecologists, > taxonomists or any kind of scientist.  They wouldn't know a Dandelion from > an Endive in many cases. > >        These list come together from rumors and newspapers of fabulous > tales of some rare plant ‘taking over’ their back yard. > >        Go to one of the state ‘Native Plant  Facebook lists” and be > amazed at the utter lack of knoweldge most people have about any plants and > especially about what is “native”, ‘invasive”, “endangered” etc. > >        It is unfortunate when any local or state entity gives these > imaginary lists some official status without any kid of scientiifc or > botanical review. Happens all the time. > >        The proverbial ‘Grain of salt’ is needed big time when looking at > these list, but some are hilariously wrong.          Just don’t count on > the lists as scientific fact.              Jim W. > > > > > > On Mar 20, 2017, at 4:44 PM, Garak wrote: > > at least Germany seems not hysterical about forbidden plants - for us it's > mostly about the classical drugs - only trouble about that: it's actually > quite difficult to get rid of Papaver somniferum in some areas, as many > gardeners allow it for the pretty flowers and rather beautiful seed heads - > and try to keep that seedmonster under control if both neighbors have it > seeding freely... > > there is a EU list of 37 "unwanted" species, plants and animals, which > definitely is not present in the awareness of the public, with the most > known and obvious plant candidates would be once again 2 Heracleums, > Eichornia Crassipes and, surprise, Kudzu. Most interesting for the List > should be Lysichiton americanus. I have no idea if this is enforced in any > way - I guess the racoons on the animal side of the list would choke to > death from laughing at the idea anyone could get rid of them... > > -- > Martin > ---------------------------------------------- > Southern Germany > Likely zone 7a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > Dr. James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone    816-746-1949 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue, 21 Mar 2017 06:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <0A855A13-9E47-4B4B-B60A-5193421ED60C@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: PBS members Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 07:51:13 -0500 Dear Friends, The recent posts about prohibited, then fussy plants just points out the vast differences between PBS members and their growing conditions. While there were many plants listed that I can barely grow or really not at all (Cyclamen, Homeria, etc) there are others that grow in abundance like Anemone blanda now showering me with hundreds of blue mixed seedlings and another lovely patch of ‘White Splendor’. How different our growing conditions, cllimates and gardeneing methods yet we all share te love of gardening with bulbous plants. This list is a place to brag and complain to like minded folks willing to put up with the vagaries of their own location. Right now the garden is a riot of spring flowers, but we have been about 2 months without a real rain ( a few 100s of an inch). We’ve had record days above 80 F(including on of 87F ! ) and howling spring winds, but the color keeps popping up. Guess I am glad I can grow ‘anything’ at some time. Meanwhile still waiting for rain and the iris and peony season to begin in earnest. Enjoy what you have. Jim W. Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From erik@tepuidesign.com Tue, 21 Mar 2017 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Erik Van Lennep Subject: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 18:20:34 +0100 James, are you in a citrus growing area? If so, they have probably listed Poncirus as a threat because they would have written a blanket ban for all members of the Rutacae family due to possibility of introducing virus, rusts and other diseases. I didn't realize things were so closely monitored in Texas! I guess you aren't big enough to write your own rules. If you were Monsanto, Cargill, Syngenta, or the like you could introduce whatever you like with impunity. Sad about Poncirus. It has such interesting possibilities for citrus breeding. erik youth and elders short video http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> “I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.” —BARRY LOPEZ” On 21 March 2017 at 13:06, James Frelichowski via pbs wrote: > I had an officer come and take my ponciris trifoliate that I got from ebay > (and I asked seller first if it was ok to receive). But then we have > pythons and now at least one cobra running amuck in Florida.Go figure. > James FrelichowskiCollege Station, TX > > On Tuesday, March 21, 2017 12:58 AM, Erik Van Lennep < > erik@tepuidesign.com> wrote: > > > The official list used for legislation and prohibition in Spain actually > includes some native plants! It looks like the work of a desktop researcher > graduate student who cobbled together a somewhat random list of plants > declared invasive across wildly varying geographies and habitats...probably > those originally published in Spanish, many of which resulted from the > "work" of others cutting and pasting. > > Thus native Catalan and Iberian species which were listed as problematic in > Argentina are now forbidden for planting in their own country of origin. > > The world is insane. > > erik > > > > youth and elders short video > > http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep > > <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> > > “I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against > hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.” > —BARRY LOPEZ” > > > On 20 March 2017 at 23:25, James Waddick wrote: > > > Dear Friends > > These list are almost always ridiculous becuase they are made up > > by elected or volunteer plant lovers who are neither botanists, > ecologists, > > taxonomists or any kind of scientist. They wouldn't know a Dandelion > from > > an Endive in many cases. > > > > These list come together from rumors and newspapers of fabulous > > tales of some rare plant ‘taking over’ their back yard. > > > > Go to one of the state ‘Native Plant Facebook lists” and be > > amazed at the utter lack of knoweldge most people have about any plants > and > > especially about what is “native”, ‘invasive”, “endangered” etc. > > > > It is unfortunate when any local or state entity gives these > > imaginary lists some official status without any kid of scientiifc or > > botanical review. Happens all the time. > > > > The proverbial ‘Grain of salt’ is needed big time when looking at > > these list, but some are hilariously wrong. Just don’t count on > > the lists as scientific fact. Jim W. > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 20, 2017, at 4:44 PM, Garak wrote: > > > > at least Germany seems not hysterical about forbidden plants - for us > it's > > mostly about the classical drugs - only trouble about that: it's actually > > quite difficult to get rid of Papaver somniferum in some areas, as many > > gardeners allow it for the pretty flowers and rather beautiful seed > heads - > > and try to keep that seedmonster under control if both neighbors have it > > seeding freely... > > > > there is a EU list of 37 "unwanted" species, plants and animals, which > > definitely is not present in the awareness of the public, with the most > > known and obvious plant candidates would be once again 2 Heracleums, > > Eichornia Crassipes and, surprise, Kudzu. Most interesting for the List > > should be Lysichiton americanus. I have no idea if this is enforced in > any > > way - I guess the racoons on the animal side of the list would choke to > > death from laughing at the idea anyone could get rid of them... > > > > -- > > Martin > > ---------------------------------------------- > > Southern Germany > > Likely zone 7a > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > Dr. James Waddick > > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > > USA > > Phone 816-746-1949 > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Tue, 21 Mar 2017 20:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <1306045144.1061061.1490149068087@mail.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski via pbs Subject: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 02:17:48 +0000 (UTC) Yes, Erik, it was Texas and the USDA people that acted on this.Poncirus is the cold hardy rootstock for many citrus.Seeds are the only option, but better to be safe and sorry, that's what the APHIS folks are paid to do.In the bigger picture it was surprising that so many things get loose in Florida and people have weird pets, etc. James Frelichowski On Tuesday, March 21, 2017 11:21 AM, Erik Van Lennep wrote: James, are you in a citrus growing area? If so, they have probably listed Poncirus as a threat because they would have written a blanket ban for all members of the Rutacae family due to possibility of introducing virus, rusts and other diseases. I didn't realize things were so closely monitored in Texas! I guess you aren't big enough to write your own rules. If you were Monsanto, Cargill, Syngenta, or the like you could introduce whatever you like with impunity. Sad about Poncirus. It has such interesting possibilities for citrus breeding. erik youth and elders short video http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> “I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.” —BARRY LOPEZ” On 21 March 2017 at 13:06, James Frelichowski via pbs wrote: > I had an officer come and take my ponciris trifoliate that I got from ebay > (and I asked seller first if it was ok to receive). But then we have > pythons and now at least one cobra running amuck in Florida.Go figure. > James FrelichowskiCollege Station, TX > >    On Tuesday, March 21, 2017 12:58 AM, Erik Van Lennep < > erik@tepuidesign.com> wrote: > > >  The official list used for legislation and prohibition in Spain actually > includes some native plants! It looks like the work of a desktop researcher > graduate student who cobbled together a somewhat random list of plants > declared invasive across wildly varying geographies and habitats...probably > those originally published in Spanish, many of which resulted from the > "work" of others cutting and pasting. > > Thus native Catalan and Iberian species which were listed as problematic in > Argentina are now forbidden for planting in their own country of origin. > > The world is insane. > > erik > > > > youth and elders short video > > http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep > > <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> > > “I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against > hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.” > —BARRY LOPEZ” > > > On 20 March 2017 at 23:25, James Waddick wrote: > > > Dear Friends > >        These list are almost always ridiculous becuase they are made up > > by elected or volunteer plant lovers who are neither botanists, > ecologists, > > taxonomists or any kind of scientist.  They wouldn't know a Dandelion > from > > an Endive in many cases. > > > >        These list come together from rumors and newspapers of fabulous > > tales of some rare plant ‘taking over’ their back yard. > > > >        Go to one of the state ‘Native Plant  Facebook lists” and be > > amazed at the utter lack of knoweldge most people have about any plants > and > > especially about what is “native”, ‘invasive”, “endangered” etc. > > > >        It is unfortunate when any local or state entity gives these > > imaginary lists some official status without any kid of scientiifc or > > botanical review. Happens all the time. > > > >        The proverbial ‘Grain of salt’ is needed big time when looking at > > these list, but some are hilariously wrong.          Just don’t count on > > the lists as scientific fact.              Jim W. > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 20, 2017, at 4:44 PM, Garak wrote: > > > > at least Germany seems not hysterical about forbidden plants - for us > it's > > mostly about the classical drugs - only trouble about that: it's actually > > quite difficult to get rid of Papaver somniferum in some areas, as many > > gardeners allow it for the pretty flowers and rather beautiful seed > heads - > > and try to keep that seedmonster under control if both neighbors have it > > seeding freely... > > > > there is a EU list of 37 "unwanted" species, plants and animals, which > > definitely is not present in the awareness of the public, with the most > > known and obvious plant candidates would be once again 2 Heracleums, > > Eichornia Crassipes and, surprise, Kudzu. Most interesting for the List > > should be Lysichiton americanus. I have no idea if this is enforced in > any > > way - I guess the racoons on the animal side of the list would choke to > > death from laughing at the idea anyone could get rid of them... > > > > -- > > Martin > > ---------------------------------------------- > > Southern Germany > > Likely zone 7a > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > Dr. James Waddick > > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > > USA > > Phone    816-746-1949 > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From david@davidpilling.com Tue, 21 Mar 2017 20:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 02:32:07 +0000 Hi, The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last year. It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my first bloom is today." You can see his photos of it here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a2 Shortened URL: http://bit.ly/2nQiIeC -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Wed, 22 Mar 2017 06:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: John Ralph Carpenter via pbs Subject: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 12:37:30 +0000 It's a Sisyrinchium, isn't it? On Wednesday, 22 March 2017, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: > > "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last year. It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my first bloom is today." > > You can see his photos of it here: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a2 > > Shortened URL: > > http://bit.ly/2nQiIeC > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ralph Carpenter 2 & 3 Stone Cottages Chilmington Green Great Chart Ashford Kent TN23 3DW 01233 637567 From fbiasella@watertownsavings.com Wed, 22 Mar 2017 06:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <8B527E4BF1849349A39D95E700706C6175B74DC3@S1P5DAG10B.EXCHPROD.USA.NET> From: Fred Biasella Subject: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 12:41:13 +0000 It kinda looks like a small blue freesia? Definitely an irid though. -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of John Ralph Carpenter via pbs Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2017 8:38 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Cc: John Ralph Carpenter Subject: Re: [pbs] Is there a mini blue Watsonia? It's a Sisyrinchium, isn't it? On Wednesday, 22 March 2017, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: > > "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last year. It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my first bloom is today." > > You can see his photos of it here: > > https://clicktime.cloud.postoffice.net/clicktime.php?X=XID009VcVmlW601 > 6Xd3&U=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pacificbulbsociety.org%2Fpbswiki%2Findex.php%2 > FTWTB%23a2&T=WTSB&HV=X,U,T,S&H=e2a6a6bc1b2aa5c942704900dd096add671ae74 > c&S=Y > > Shortened URL: > > https://clicktime.cloud.postoffice.net/clicktime.php?X=XID009VcVmlW601 > 6Xd3&U=http%3A%2F%2Fbit.ly%2F2nQiIeC&T=WTSB&HV=X,U,T,S&H=6149693e0d353 > 716bd276415a0ac3955c8c1b6af&S=Y > > > -- > David Pilling > https://clicktime.cloud.postoffice.net/clicktime.php?X=XID009VcVmlW601 > 6Xd3&U=www.davidpilling.com&T=WTSB&HV=X,U,T,S&H=c333fd284cbe1d01f128e5 > af69423975caaf5abc&S=Y _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > https://clicktime.cloud.postoffice.net/clicktime.php?X=XID009VcVmlW601 > 6Xd3&U=http%3A%2F%2Fpacificbulbsociety.org%2Flist.php&T=WTSB&HV=X,U,T, > S&H=f3f69cd6dfec09af092dec45e092993213f61874&S=Y > https://clicktime.cloud.postoffice.net/clicktime.php?X=XID009VcVmlW601 > 6Xd3&U=http%3A%2F%2Fpacificbulbsociety.org%2Fpbswiki&T=WTSB&HV=X,U,T,S > &H=db78e838c2dadeadbb399806d7d9d806b174aca1&S=Y > -- Ralph Carpenter 2 & 3 Stone Cottages Chilmington Green Great Chart Ashford Kent TN23 3DW 01233 637567 From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 22 Mar 2017 06:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <6FF397F1-9B06-4F2F-9EDF-89EE7A31A32B@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:00:33 -0500 Dear Roddy, PLease give some more info: 1. How tall is it? 2. Where is it growing - Country? Plant Zone (hardiness) ? Soil or environment? 3. Does it have a bulb or tuber? Otherwise these are pretty anonymous pix and need more explanation? Thanks Jim W. On Mar 21, 2017, at 9:32 PM, David Pilling wrote: Hi, The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last year. It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my first bloom is today." You can see his photos of it here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a2 Shortened URL: http://bit.ly/2nQiIeC -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From dkramb@badbear.com Wed, 22 Mar 2017 07:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 09:52:39 -0400 That might be *Lapeirousia azurea*. http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/289362/ Dennis in Cincinnati On Tue, Mar 21, 2017 at 10:32 PM, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: > > "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last year. > It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my first bloom > is today." > > You can see his photos of it here: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a2 > > Shortened URL: > > http://bit.ly/2nQiIeC > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From kristinjakob@att.net Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kristin Jakob Subject: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:11:36 -0700 Better photos would help, but it looks like Babiana to me. Kristin Jakob Mill Valley. California On Mar 21, 2017, at 7:32 PM, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: > > "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last year. It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my first bloom is today." > > You can see his photos of it here: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a2 > > Shortened URL: > > http://bit.ly/2nQiIeC > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From judygardnr@att.net Wed, 22 Mar 2017 09:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Judy Wong Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 22 Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:26:42 -0700 Looks like Babiana? Leaves ribbed. In right conditions clumps expand rapidly. Has it seeded a distance away or just expanding clumps? Do you have baboons in the garden (babiana bulbs a favorite food) that spread it about? :)) Sent from my iPhone When I rest, I rust. Judy > On Mar 22, 2017, at 6:52 AM, pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote: > > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post: List-Archive: > Today's Topics: > > 1. PBS members (James Waddick) > 2. Re: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? > (Erik Van Lennep) > 3. Re: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? > (James Frelichowski) > 4. Is there a mini blue Watsonia? (David Pilling) > 5. Re: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? (John Ralph Carpenter) > 6. Re: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? (Fred Biasella) > 7. Re: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? (James Waddick) > 8. Re: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? (Dennis Kramb) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 07:51:13 -0500 > From: James Waddick > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] PBS members > Message-ID: <0A855A13-9E47-4B4B-B60A-5193421ED60C@kc.rr.com> > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post: List-Archive: > Today's Topics: > > 1. PBS members (James Waddick) > 2. Re: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? > (Erik Van Lennep) > 3. Re: WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these lists? > (James Frelichowski) > 4. Is there a mini blue Watsonia? (David Pilling) > 5. Re: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? (John Ralph Carpenter) > 6. Re: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? (Fred Biasella) > 7. Re: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? (James Waddick) > 8. Re: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? (Dennis Kramb) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 07:51:13 -0500 > From: James Waddick > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] PBS members > Message-ID: <0A855A13-9E47-4B4B-B60A-5193421ED60C@kc.rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Dear Friends, > > The recent posts about prohibited, then fussy plants just points out the vast differences between PBS members and their growing conditions. > > While there were many plants listed that I can barely grow or really not at all (Cyclamen, Homeria, etc) there are others that grow in abundance like Anemone blanda now showering me with hundreds of blue mixed seedlings and another lovely patch of ?White Splendor?. > > How different our growing conditions, cllimates and gardeneing methods yet we all share te love of gardening with bulbous plants. This list is a place to brag and complain to like minded folks willing to put up with the vagaries of their own location. > > Right now the garden is a riot of spring flowers, but we have been about 2 months without a real rain ( a few 100s of an inch). We?ve had record days above 80 F(including on of 87F ! ) and howling spring winds, but the color keeps popping up. > > Guess I am glad I can grow ?anything? at some time. Meanwhile still waiting for rain and the iris and peony season to begin in earnest. Enjoy what you have. Jim W. > > > > > Dr. James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone 816-746-1949 > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2017 18:20:34 +0100 > From: Erik Van Lennep > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these > lists? > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > James, are you in a citrus growing area? If so, they have probably listed > Poncirus as a threat because they would have written a blanket ban for all > members of the Rutacae family due to possibility of introducing virus, > rusts and other diseases. > > I didn't realize things were so closely monitored in Texas! I guess you > aren't big enough to write your own rules. If you were Monsanto, Cargill, > Syngenta, or the like you could introduce whatever you like with impunity. > Sad about Poncirus. It has such interesting possibilities for citrus > breeding. > > erik > > > > youth and elders short video > > http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep > > <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> > > ?I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against > hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.? > ?BARRY LOPEZ? > > > On 21 March 2017 at 13:06, James Frelichowski via pbs > wrote: > >> I had an officer come and take my ponciris trifoliate that I got from ebay >> (and I asked seller first if it was ok to receive). But then we have >> pythons and now at least one cobra running amuck in Florida.Go figure. >> James FrelichowskiCollege Station, TX >> >> On Tuesday, March 21, 2017 12:58 AM, Erik Van Lennep < >> erik@tepuidesign.com> wrote: >> >> >> The official list used for legislation and prohibition in Spain actually >> includes some native plants! It looks like the work of a desktop researcher >> graduate student who cobbled together a somewhat random list of plants >> declared invasive across wildly varying geographies and habitats...probably >> those originally published in Spanish, many of which resulted from the >> "work" of others cutting and pasting. >> >> Thus native Catalan and Iberian species which were listed as problematic in >> Argentina are now forbidden for planting in their own country of origin. >> >> The world is insane. >> >> erik >> >> >> >> youth and elders short video >> >> http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep >> >> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> >> >> ?I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against >> hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.? >> ?BARRY LOPEZ? >> >> >>> On 20 March 2017 at 23:25, James Waddick wrote: >>> >>> Dear Friends >>> These list are almost always ridiculous becuase they are made up >>> by elected or volunteer plant lovers who are neither botanists, >> ecologists, >>> taxonomists or any kind of scientist. They wouldn't know a Dandelion >> from >>> an Endive in many cases. >>> >>> These list come together from rumors and newspapers of fabulous >>> tales of some rare plant ?taking over? their back yard. >>> >>> Go to one of the state ?Native Plant Facebook lists? and be >>> amazed at the utter lack of knoweldge most people have about any plants >> and >>> especially about what is ?native?, ?invasive?, ?endangered? etc. >>> >>> It is unfortunate when any local or state entity gives these >>> imaginary lists some official status without any kid of scientiifc or >>> botanical review. Happens all the time. >>> >>> The proverbial ?Grain of salt? is needed big time when looking at >>> these list, but some are hilariously wrong. Just don?t count on >>> the lists as scientific fact. Jim W. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mar 20, 2017, at 4:44 PM, Garak wrote: >>> >>> at least Germany seems not hysterical about forbidden plants - for us >> it's >>> mostly about the classical drugs - only trouble about that: it's actually >>> quite difficult to get rid of Papaver somniferum in some areas, as many >>> gardeners allow it for the pretty flowers and rather beautiful seed >> heads - >>> and try to keep that seedmonster under control if both neighbors have it >>> seeding freely... >>> >>> there is a EU list of 37 "unwanted" species, plants and animals, which >>> definitely is not present in the awareness of the public, with the most >>> known and obvious plant candidates would be once again 2 Heracleums, >>> Eichornia Crassipes and, surprise, Kudzu. Most interesting for the List >>> should be Lysichiton americanus. I have no idea if this is enforced in >> any >>> way - I guess the racoons on the animal side of the list would choke to >>> death from laughing at the idea anyone could get rid of them... >>> >>> -- >>> Martin >>> ---------------------------------------------- >>> Southern Germany >>> Likely zone 7a >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >>> Dr. James Waddick >>> 8871 NW Brostrom Rd >>> Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 >>> USA >>> Phone 816-746-1949 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 02:17:48 +0000 (UTC) > From: James Frelichowski > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] WAS - prohibited plants; NOW Who makes up these > lists? > Message-ID: <1306045144.1061061.1490149068087@mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Yes, Erik, it was Texas and the USDA people that acted on this.Poncirus is the cold hardy rootstock for many citrus.Seeds are the only option, but better to be safe and sorry, that's what the APHIS folks are paid to do.In the bigger picture it was surprising that so many things get loose in Florida and people have weird pets, etc. > James Frelichowski > > > On Tuesday, March 21, 2017 11:21 AM, Erik Van Lennep wrote: > > > James, are you in a citrus growing area? If so, they have probably listed > Poncirus as a threat because they would have written a blanket ban for all > members of the Rutacae family due to possibility of introducing virus, > rusts and other diseases. > > I didn't realize things were so closely monitored in Texas! I guess you > aren't big enough to write your own rules. If you were Monsanto, Cargill, > Syngenta, or the like you could introduce whatever you like with impunity. > Sad about Poncirus. It has such interesting possibilities for citrus > breeding. > > erik > > > > youth and elders short video > > http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep > > <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> > > ?I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against > hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.? > ?BARRY LOPEZ? > > > On 21 March 2017 at 13:06, James Frelichowski via pbs > wrote: > >> I had an officer come and take my ponciris trifoliate that I got from ebay >> (and I asked seller first if it was ok to receive). But then we have >> pythons and now at least one cobra running amuck in Florida.Go figure. >> James FrelichowskiCollege Station, TX >> >> ? ? On Tuesday, March 21, 2017 12:58 AM, Erik Van Lennep < >> erik@tepuidesign.com> wrote: >> >> >> ? The official list used for legislation and prohibition in Spain actually >> includes some native plants! It looks like the work of a desktop researcher >> graduate student who cobbled together a somewhat random list of plants >> declared invasive across wildly varying geographies and habitats...probably >> those originally published in Spanish, many of which resulted from the >> "work" of others cutting and pasting. >> >> Thus native Catalan and Iberian species which were listed as problematic in >> Argentina are now forbidden for planting in their own country of origin. >> >> The world is insane. >> >> erik >> >> >> >> youth and elders short video >> >> http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep >> >> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> >> >> ?I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against >> hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.? >> ?BARRY LOPEZ? >> >> >>> On 20 March 2017 at 23:25, James Waddick wrote: >>> >>> Dear Friends >>> ? ? ? ? These list are almost always ridiculous becuase they are made up >>> by elected or volunteer plant lovers who are neither botanists, >> ecologists, >>> taxonomists or any kind of scientist.? They wouldn't know a Dandelion >> from >>> an Endive in many cases. >>> >>> ? ? ? ? These list come together from rumors and newspapers of fabulous >>> tales of some rare plant ?taking over? their back yard. >>> >>> ? ? ? ? Go to one of the state ?Native Plant? Facebook lists? and be >>> amazed at the utter lack of knoweldge most people have about any plants >> and >>> especially about what is ?native?, ?invasive?, ?endangered? etc. >>> >>> ? ? ? ? It is unfortunate when any local or state entity gives these >>> imaginary lists some official status without any kid of scientiifc or >>> botanical review. Happens all the time. >>> >>> ? ? ? ? The proverbial ?Grain of salt? is needed big time when looking at >>> these list, but some are hilariously wrong.? ? ? ? ? Just don?t count on >>> the lists as scientific fact.? ? ? ? ? ? ? Jim W. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mar 20, 2017, at 4:44 PM, Garak wrote: >>> >>> at least Germany seems not hysterical about forbidden plants - for us >> it's >>> mostly about the classical drugs - only trouble about that: it's actually >>> quite difficult to get rid of Papaver somniferum in some areas, as many >>> gardeners allow it for the pretty flowers and rather beautiful seed >> heads - >>> and try to keep that seedmonster under control if both neighbors have it >>> seeding freely... >>> >>> there is a EU list of 37 "unwanted" species, plants and animals, which >>> definitely is not present in the awareness of the public, with the most >>> known and obvious plant candidates would be once again 2 Heracleums, >>> Eichornia Crassipes and, surprise, Kudzu. Most interesting for the List >>> should be Lysichiton americanus. I have no idea if this is enforced in >> any >>> way - I guess the racoons on the animal side of the list would choke to >>> death from laughing at the idea anyone could get rid of them... >>> >>> -- >>> Martin >>> ---------------------------------------------- >>> Southern Germany >>> Likely zone 7a >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >>> Dr. James Waddick >>> 8871 NW Brostrom Rd >>> Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 >>> USA >>> Phone? ? 816-746-1949 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 02:32:07 +0000 > From: David Pilling > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] Is there a mini blue Watsonia? > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Hi, > > The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: > > "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last > year. It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my > first bloom is today." > > You can see his photos of it here: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a2 > > Shortened URL: > > http://bit.ly/2nQiIeC > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 12:37:30 +0000 > From: John Ralph Carpenter > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Is there a mini blue Watsonia? > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > It's a Sisyrinchium, isn't it? > >> On Wednesday, 22 March 2017, David Pilling wrote: >> Hi, >> >> The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: >> >> "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last year. > It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my first bloom > is today." >> >> You can see his photos of it here: >> >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a2 >> >> Shortened URL: >> >> http://bit.ly/2nQiIeC >> >> >> -- >> David Pilling >> www.davidpilling.com >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > -- > Ralph Carpenter > 2 & 3 Stone Cottages > Chilmington Green > Great Chart > Ashford > Kent TN23 3DW > > 01233 637567 > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 12:41:13 +0000 > From: Fred Biasella > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Is there a mini blue Watsonia? > Message-ID: > <8B527E4BF1849349A39D95E700706C6175B74DC3@S1P5DAG10B.EXCHPROD.USA.NET> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > It kinda looks like a small blue freesia? Definitely an irid though. > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of John Ralph Carpenter via pbs > Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2017 8:38 AM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Cc: John Ralph Carpenter > Subject: Re: [pbs] Is there a mini blue Watsonia? > > It's a Sisyrinchium, isn't it? > >> On Wednesday, 22 March 2017, David Pilling wrote: >> Hi, >> >> The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: >> >> "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last year. > It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my first bloom is today." >> >> You can see his photos of it here: >> >> https://clicktime.cloud.postoffice.net/clicktime.php?X=XID009VcVmlW601 >> 6Xd3&U=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pacificbulbsociety.org%2Fpbswiki%2Findex.php%2 >> FTWTB%23a2&T=WTSB&HV=X,U,T,S&H=e2a6a6bc1b2aa5c942704900dd096add671ae74 >> c&S=Y >> >> Shortened URL: >> >> https://clicktime.cloud.postoffice.net/clicktime.php?X=XID009VcVmlW601 >> 6Xd3&U=http%3A%2F%2Fbit.ly%2F2nQiIeC&T=WTSB&HV=X,U,T,S&H=6149693e0d353 >> 716bd276415a0ac3955c8c1b6af&S=Y >> >> >> -- >> David Pilling >> https://clicktime.cloud.postoffice.net/clicktime.php?X=XID009VcVmlW601 >> 6Xd3&U=www.davidpilling.com&T=WTSB&HV=X,U,T,S&H=c333fd284cbe1d01f128e5 >> af69423975caaf5abc&S=Y _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> https://clicktime.cloud.postoffice.net/clicktime.php?X=XID009VcVmlW601 >> 6Xd3&U=http%3A%2F%2Fpacificbulbsociety.org%2Flist.php&T=WTSB&HV=X,U,T, >> S&H=f3f69cd6dfec09af092dec45e092993213f61874&S=Y >> https://clicktime.cloud.postoffice.net/clicktime.php?X=XID009VcVmlW601 >> 6Xd3&U=http%3A%2F%2Fpacificbulbsociety.org%2Fpbswiki&T=WTSB&HV=X,U,T,S >> &H=db78e838c2dadeadbb399806d7d9d806b174aca1&S=Y >> > > -- > Ralph Carpenter > 2 & 3 Stone Cottages > Chilmington Green > Great Chart > Ashford > Kent TN23 3DW > > 01233 637567 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:00:33 -0500 > From: James Waddick > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Is there a mini blue Watsonia? > Message-ID: <6FF397F1-9B06-4F2F-9EDF-89EE7A31A32B@kc.rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Dear Roddy, > > PLease give some more info: > > 1. How tall is it? > > 2. Where is it growing - Country? Plant Zone (hardiness) ? Soil or environment? > > 3. Does it have a bulb or tuber? > > Otherwise these are pretty anonymous pix and need more explanation? Thanks Jim W. > > > > > On Mar 21, 2017, at 9:32 PM, David Pilling wrote: > > Hi, > > The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: > > "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last year. It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my first bloom is today." > > You can see his photos of it here: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a2 > > Shortened URL: > > http://bit.ly/2nQiIeC > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > Dr. James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone 816-746-1949 > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 09:52:39 -0400 > From: Dennis Kramb > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Is there a mini blue Watsonia? > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > That might be *Lapeirousia azurea*. > > http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/289362/ > > Dennis in Cincinnati > > On Tue, Mar 21, 2017 at 10:32 PM, David Pilling > wrote: > >> Hi, >> >> The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: >> >> "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last year. >> It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my first bloom >> is today." >> >> You can see his photos of it here: >> >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a2 >> >> Shortened URL: >> >> http://bit.ly/2nQiIeC >> >> >> -- >> David Pilling >> www.davidpilling.com >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > ------------------------------ > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 170, Issue 22 > ************************************ From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Wed, 22 Mar 2017 09:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <1855852161.619033.1490197576522@mail.yahoo.com> From: Wylie Young via pbs Subject: Prohibited plants Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 15:46:16 +0000 (UTC) There are a lot more than 28 plants prohibited into Germany. Because of the Xylella fastidiosa virus, which affects olive trees in Italy, the EU put out a huge list of plants now prohibited from entry into the EU.http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/HTML/?uri=CELEX:320015D0789&from=DEIt includes everything from citrus trees and coffee bushes to stinging nettles. Maybe Germany is easier, but Portugal requires a phyto certificate for any seeds from outside the EU.Wylie _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Chad.Schroter@sandisk.com Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Chad Schroter Subject: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 16:27:11 +0000 I agree, definitely Babiana (probably stricta hybrid) Chad Schroter -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Kristin Jakob Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2017 8:12 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Is there a mini blue Watsonia? Better photos would help, but it looks like Babiana to me. Kristin Jakob Mill Valley. California On Mar 21, 2017, at 7:32 PM, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > The PBS got a question from Roddy Ledlie who asks: > > "Is there a miniature blue Watsonia? Got a piece from a client last year. It has more than doubled and has seeded across the yard and my first bloom is today." > > You can see his photos of it here: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a2 > > Shortened URL: > > http://bit.ly/2nQiIeC > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Western Digital Corporation (and its subsidiaries) E-mail Confidentiality Notice & Disclaimer: This e-mail and any files transmitted with it may contain confidential or legally privileged information of WDC and/or its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to which they are addressed. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on it, is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the e-mail in its entirety from your system. From totototo@telus.net Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <58D2AD86.40602@telus.net> From: Rodger Whitlock Subject: Editing quoted posts Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 09:59:50 -0700 People! For heaven's sake, it's now 2017 and the internet has been as common as sliced white bread for over twenty years, yet careless (or uncaring or inattentive) subscribers to this mailing list ***still*** just click "reply" then "send" without deleting unnecessary material, in particular quoted earlier posts. Guess what the silent reaction is of other subscribers? It's "how stupid! How dim! How unthoughtful! What a nuisance having to scroll looking for the beginning of the next message!" Regrettably, this habit is fostered by email clients that don't handle email digests (which is the format of the postings PBS sends out) at all well. I'm using one myself, Thunderbird 38, and yes it takes a while to prepare a reply posting. But if I can do it so can you! It's no more difficult than editing aq any plain text document. Please!! From silkie@frontiernet.net Wed, 22 Mar 2017 11:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <09ca01d2a332$21e2f520$65a8df60$@frontiernet.net> From: "Colleen" Subject: Editing quoted posts Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:31:22 -0700 Please don't go to the extreme of deleting everything! Replies do not always happen immediately or a person is not always at their computer, and a comment with no supporting information becomes useless. Colleen NE Calif. People! For heaven's sake, it's now 2017 and the internet has been as common as sliced white bread for over twenty years, yet careless (or uncaring or inattentive) subscribers to this mailing list ***still*** just click "reply" then "send" without deleting unnecessary material, in particular quoted earlier posts. From david@davidpilling.com Wed, 22 Mar 2017 11:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <056bf74b-070b-6c39-37aa-c94ffcd8e345@davidpilling.com> From: David Pilling Subject: Editing quoted posts Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 17:53:29 +0000 Hi, The problem is if you reply to a digest and quote the entire digest, then because sending digests depends on the size of the digest having passed a fixed value (40K bytes), you will cause another digest to be sent immediately. If everyone did this then digests would cease to be digests. So it helps if you edit out digests' contents and change the subject line to the topic of interest when replying. It's not a big sin if anyone gets it wrong. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From david@davidpilling.com Wed, 22 Mar 2017 12:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Is there a mini blue Watsonia? Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 18:36:46 +0000 Hi, I got this from Roddy "It is near Savannah Ga so yes lots of baboons and it does spread quickly and around the garden. Just found it in my A to Z and that's it. Thank you so much." Problem solved. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From garak@code-garak.de Wed, 22 Mar 2017 12:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <29757601-d31f-7956-e92f-86c011e2f216@code-garak.de> From: Garak Subject: Prohibited plants Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 19:43:33 +0100 well, in this case it's just not in the public at all - I actually never heard of a phytosanitary certificate until dealing with the US, and I've never had any problems - mostly because I'm all about seeds when dealing with outside Europe. Considering the List specified in that decree: If the vectors for a troublesome virus include unstoppable monsters like Xanthium, Ambrosia, Solidago, Senecio and Urtica, and common stuff lice Acer, Helianthus, Ipomoea, Hibiscus, Veronica, Rosmarinus... I consider it a quite hopeles idea to stop it somehow in the European single Market without a huge awareness campaign. One really should consider to put all that effort into breeding tolerant specimen, because quarantine seems quite impossible to me. Martin Am 22.03.2017 um 16:46 schrieb Wylie Young via pbs: > There are a lot more than 28 plants prohibited into Germany. Because of the Xylella fastidiosa virus, which affects olive trees in Italy, the EU put out a huge list of plants now prohibited from entry into the EU.http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/HTML/?uri=CELEX:320015D0789&from=DEIt includes everything from citrus trees and coffee bushes to stinging nettles. Maybe Germany is easier, but Portugal requires a phyto certificate for any seeds from outside the EU.Wylie > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ahorstmann@telkomsa.net Wed, 22 Mar 2017 12:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Alan Horstmann" Subject: Babiana Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:49:46 +0200 Hello all, The blue watsonia is a Babiana – pleated leaves and bracts with brown edges. Inflorescence typical of Babiana. Way it is growing also typically Babiana and not the more upright Watsonia. Regards from a hot South Africa. remember the IBSA symposium at end of August 2017. Alan Horstmann _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jane@deskhenge.com Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <4e6edb7f-8b18-db5e-3d4e-ee63563e14de@deskhenge.com> From: Jane Sargent Subject: poncirus Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 22:29:18 -0400 Yes, I guess the citrus police wouldn´t want you to have a Poncirus. It is a lovely plant, though. The worst interaction I ever had with the plant police was a few years back on my way into the Burning Man Festival in the barren high desert of northern Nevada. We had two good-sized potted banana trees with us, which were intended to sit out in front of our campsite and look ornamental. The Federal Bureau of Land Management police are in charge of those public lands, and they wanted to confiscate the banana plants so that the banana seeds would not get loose and invasively naturalize, making a banana jungle on the high, waterless alkali flats. My daughter tried with all her might to convince them that if seeds could ever sprout there, there would already be a dense marijuana plant cover. We finally managed to keep the banana plants through some fast talking and complex phone calls to officials and paperwork that was entirely bogus... No plants at all grow on the Black Rock Desert, no bananas, no marijuana, not even Poncirus. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From judygardnr@att.net Wed, 22 Mar 2017 21:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <642D3628-74B5-49E2-8051-9AF1C188E1A0@att.net> From: Judy Wong Subject: Editing quoted posts Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 21:00:19 -0700 As I was an offender in clicking< "reply"and "send" without deleting unnecessary material in particular quoted earlier posts>, my apologies. I'll try not to do it again. It was my first post. Sent from my iPhone When I rest, I rust. Judy > > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 09:59:50 -0700 > From: Rodger Whitlock > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] Editing quoted posts > Message-ID: <58D2AD86.40602@telus.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > People! For heaven's sake, it's now 2017 and the internet has been as > common as sliced white bread for over twenty years, yet careless (or > uncaring or inattentive) subscribers to this mailing list ***still*** > just click "reply" then "send" without deleting unnecessary material, in > particular quoted earlier posts. > > Guess what the silent reaction is of other subscribers? It's "how > stupid! How dim! How unthoughtful! What a nuisance having to scroll > looking for the beginning of the next message!" > > Regrettably, this habit is fostered by email clients that don't handle > email digests (which is the format of the postings PBS sends out) at all > well. I'm using one myself, Thunderbird 38, and yes it takes a while to > prepare a reply posting. But if I can do it so can you! It's no more > difficult than editing aq any plain text document. > > From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Wed, 22 Mar 2017 23:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: poncirus Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 22:59:45 -0700 > Yes, I guess the citrus police wouldn't want you to have a Poncirus. It > is a lovely plant, though. > > The worst interaction I ever had with the plant police was a few years > back on my way into the Burning Man Festival in the barren high desert > of northern Nevada. We had two good-sized potted banana trees with us, > which were intended to sit out in front of our campsite and look > ornamental. The Federal Bureau of Land Management police are in charge > of those public lands, and they wanted to confiscate the banana plants > so that the banana seeds would not get loose and invasively naturalize, > making a banana jungle on the high, waterless alkali flats. My daughter > tried with all her might to convince them that if seeds could ever > sprout there, there would already be a dense marijuana plant cover. We > finally managed to keep the banana plants through some fast talking and > complex phone calls to officials and paperwork that was entirely bogus... > > No plants at all grow on the Black Rock Desert, no bananas, no > marijuana, not even Poncirus. Anything in Rutaceae seems able to carry yellow shoot disease of citrus, caused by a bacteria that lives in the phloem of affected plants. This arrived in Miami in the late 1990s. The vector, a leafhopper, has been in North America since the 1600s, probably introduced with the tropical mock orange Murraya. Unless some practical cure is found much of the citrus industry in the US will go away. So there is a quarantine against bringing anything in Rutaceae into the US, as well as quarantines on moving citrus between states. Nurseries able to grow citrus for interstate sale need to grow them in double-walled screen houses able to exclude the leafhopper. The bacterium probably is able to infect seeds. http://www.crec.ifas.ufl.edu/extension/greening/PDF/HLBADestructiveNewlyEmergingCenturyOldDiseaseofCitrus.pdf As for the banana plants - the least parsimonious explanation is the inspectors wanted the plants for themselves. Leo Martin Zone 9? Phoenix Arizona USA From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Thu, 23 Mar 2017 04:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1607654428.1020043.1490267015380@mail.yahoo.com> From: Wylie Young via pbs Subject: Prohibited plants (EU) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 11:03:35 +0000 (UTC) Several years ago I wanted to import some South African bulb seeds, so I went to my local Agricultural office, and was told the Phyto Certificate was required. The company in SA said that because they get seeds from small farms, it was impossible to provide the certificate. Now days I buy from Rareplants.eu. I did order once from Sunshine-seeds.de, but their site prevented me from putting anything in the basket. The big list came about because the Olive trees in Italy were devastated by the Xylella bacteria. The EU's answer was to ban everything that the bug that transmits it likes; and after court challenges, the infected trees were cut down, burned, and the list enforced. The bacteria is now in Corsica, so the whole Mediteranean area is in danger.Wylie _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Thu, 23 Mar 2017 07:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <753426294.3582611.1490275015513@mail.yahoo.com> From: Khanh Duong via pbs Subject: Prohibited Plants Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 13:16:55 +0000 (UTC) Dear All, Please be aware of the following: 1) Many of the so-called 'diseases' are or may be consequential from people incompetently self-importantly doing the wrong things, industrially exploiting/pimping, spraying, GM, and generally weakening the plants and habitats, 'ecosystems' and inter-relations, in question. Nature is, you might say, 'fighting back'. Such diseases do not often arise or harm strong non-weakened forms of life. To inform obliquely in this regard, a television program noted the reactions of some peoples in the North Western USA to the wolves (trying to live) in that area. Generally the humans felt that "The Wolves just don't belong there!", and they were/are oh-so happy to kill/exterminate the wolves, especially if the wolves dare to try to find food via the town(s) in question. But it is the (colonial) humans who moved there, who do not think and behave properly, who smother and fragment the lands in those areas with roads, towns, railways etc..., and it is the humans who then presume to say that it is the wolves who are 'bad', 'prohibited'. It is the incompetent self-important humans who are at fault, not the wolves. The wolves (of that ilk, at least) did not make ships, sail abroad, destroy the ability for the natives to be free, turn most of the a continent into megacities and megafarms in less than two human lifespans (~140 years or so), and invent laws with enforcement to get rid of most o all wild life. The wolves (of that ilk) did not do that... Putting lives to work, prostituting them, pimping them, exploiting them, forcing them to "Do you Yield!? increase your Yields! Yield we say!", will inherently break such lives. Prohibiting 'fresh' species to 'repair' the natural world, is yet another part of the chosen incompetence by so many humans. They do not listen to Nature and to those who tell the Truth, but instead try to subjugate/subdue and prohibit and to fight Nature and those who tell The Truth. The errors in their (your?) equations and production lines are being shown very clearly. 2) Some of those making-up the (SEEDED/SEEDING, thus TRAINED, propagated and propagating!) Plant-Prohibiting legislation, or at least the advice going towards its invention, are genuinely well-meaning, even if in error. However, most may be of vested interests, simply in error, andor are using such invented routes/ROOTS/My-SEAL-EYE/-'em Mycellium BRANCHe'S' of legislation for other interventional purposes that are NOT for your and Nature's benefit, and that are insidiously intended to excuse enforcers to come into your lands, at your expense, to alter the world to suit their global plan(s), rather than what is right... This is happenning, is C(III)-->Dead  SEE-DEAD SEED'ED(MONDE Black AddER) Seeded, Globally... Please be aware of this...  For example, let us say that you are trying to grow plants that truly do suit the natural world in your region, provide for life's needs, suit the wildlife, and also suit the possible changes of climate, for example. They, however, simply make-up school-playground legislation, with the henchpersons and scholl badges to enforce, they come onto your land, accuse you as how-eve-are however they have invented, take the plants away and at your cost, and you are invented to be a 'bad' person, and you are made to fund them, and they wrap it up as if they are the 'good' persons, whereas it is usually the contrary. The Planet is expected to put up with this. They PLANT ENGINEER-RING PLANT-'S' and tourist resorts and Forest Logging operations and towns and cities and ports etc... world-wide, but if you plant a Cyclamen, they invent to call you bad... With school playground legislation and made-up badges, etc.. and demand pocket money from you and others... Do you see the (Pacific) LIGHT of the Plant'dead Plant-'S' Planted Bulb-'S' Societies, yet...? Dolores Umbridge and colleagues, replete with Snatchers, make up much of the legislation, including Prohibited Plants, and they will not Stay on Deck 16... (DEC'K(ay) = Decay, incidentally...)   SEC-you-all-are SECular C(III)-->Dead Seeded, you see Please pass this privately to all whom you wish... Chris[am using an aquaintance's email address for this communication] _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enickel9@live.com Thu, 23 Mar 2017 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Erle Nickel Subject: New member Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 17:03:37 +0000 I just joined PBS this morning and wanted to introduce myself. My name is Earl Nickel and I'm a professional nurseryman at Grand Lake Ace Garden Center in Oakland CA. As well, I write a regular column on different aspects of gardening for the San Francisco Chronicle and Pacific Horticulture magazine. I have a diverse garden that includes a great many bulbs. I have a particular interest in South African bulbs and have written articles on this subject for the above outlets. My new passion is Arisaemas. I've been thinking of joining for years and am glad for finally taking the plunge. From erik@tepuidesign.com Thu, 23 Mar 2017 11:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Erik Van Lennep Subject: New member Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 18:31:10 +0100 Hi Erie, Great to "meet" you. It's a great group, and I am sure you will learn a lot here, as well as that we will learn from you. I am curious about growing Arisaemas in the bay area. How is that going for you? Are there challenges in terms of temperature and rainfall (or lack thereof) during the growing season? Those I brought from Ireland, where most all do very well, to Spain, informed me of their displeasure in the move by withering away. Erik van Lennep youth and elders short video http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> “I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.” —BARRY LOPEZ” On 23 March 2017 at 18:03, Erle Nickel wrote: > I just joined PBS this morning and wanted to introduce myself. My name is > Earl Nickel and I'm a professional nurseryman at Grand Lake Ace Garden > Center in Oakland CA. As well, I write a regular column on different > aspects of gardening for the San Francisco Chronicle and Pacific > Horticulture magazine. I have a diverse garden that includes a great many > bulbs. I have a particular interest in South African bulbs and have written > articles on this subject for the above outlets. My new passion is > Arisaemas. I've been thinking of joining for years and am glad for finally > taking the plunge. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From erik@tepuidesign.com Thu, 23 Mar 2017 11:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Erik Van Lennep Subject: poncirus Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 18:42:04 +0100 Hi Leo, That's amazing. I am still laughing :) but I can appreciate the frustration of the encounter. Especially considering not only the impossible growing conditions at the site, but the fact that most bananas don't even set viable seed even in ideal conditions. Erik youth and elders short video http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> “I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.” —BARRY LOPEZ” On 23 March 2017 at 06:59, Leo Martin wrote: > >....The Federal Bureau of Land Management police are in charge > > of those public lands, and they wanted to confiscate the banana plants > > so that the banana seeds would not get loose and invasively naturalize, > > making a banana jungle on the high, waterless alkali flats. > > As for the banana plants - the least parsimonious explanation is the > inspectors wanted the plants for themselves. > > > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From merkity@gmail.com Thu, 23 Mar 2017 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jennifer Longueville Subject: New member Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 13:22:55 -0700 welcome from across the bay :) On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 10:31 AM, Erik Van Lennep wrote: > Hi Erie, > > Great to "meet" you. It's a great group, and I am sure you will learn a lot > here, as well as that we will learn from you. I am curious about growing > Arisaemas in the bay area. How is that going for you? Are there challenges > in terms of temperature and rainfall (or lack thereof) during the growing > season? Those I brought from Ireland, where most all do very well, to > Spain, informed me of their displeasure in the move by withering away. > > Erik van Lennep > > > > youth and elders short video > > http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep > > <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> > > “I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against > hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.” > —BARRY LOPEZ” > > > On 23 March 2017 at 18:03, Erle Nickel wrote: > > > I just joined PBS this morning and wanted to introduce myself. My name is > > Earl Nickel and I'm a professional nurseryman at Grand Lake Ace Garden > > Center in Oakland CA. As well, I write a regular column on different > > aspects of gardening for the San Francisco Chronicle and Pacific > > Horticulture magazine. I have a diverse garden that includes a great many > > bulbs. I have a particular interest in South African bulbs and have > written > > articles on this subject for the above outlets. My new passion is > > Arisaemas. I've been thinking of joining for years and am glad for > finally > > taking the plunge. > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Thu, 23 Mar 2017 15:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <79352ca3-cd61-263a-426d-8a8374a0f0d2@t-online.de> From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: Welcome new member Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 22:38:11 +0100 Hello Earl, Welcome to this group! You will find a lot of information here and your knowledge is most welcome to be shared with us. The Topic of Arisaema in a moderate mediterranean climate is interesting to me as I will soon move to Portugal. I wonder how my Arisaemas will do there, they are all in a dormant state right now. Welcome again and bye for today Uli Northern Germany, Garden, greenhouse and pond, spring right now with moderate frosts at some nights. From ldiane.whitehead@gmail.com Thu, 23 Mar 2017 15:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <4363CB4A-7C10-49D0-8E91-11FB04AEF738@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Arisaema in a mediterranean climate was Welcome new member Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 15:12:10 -0700 On 2017-03-23, at 2:38 PM, Johannes Ulrich Urban wrote: > The Topic of Arisaema in a moderate mediterranean climate is interesting to me as I will soon move to Portugal. I wonder how my Arisaemas will do there, they are all in a dormant state right now. > Many Arisaema are native to areas that get summer rain. One such place is Japan, where the grass is green all summer and brown in the winter, just the opposite to my mediterranean conditions. Arisaema have not been an outstanding success for me, but I plant them in a spot close to the door where I can pour the rinse water from washing dishes on them (we have watering restrictions), and get some bloom, some years. I have found the corms long-lasting, even when no plants appear above ground. I had a backhoe in to remove a lot of running bamboo. The next year an A. jacquemontii bloomed. I checked my garden maps, and saw that it had been invaded by the bamboo and cowering underground for twelve years. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada From enickel9@gmail.com Thu, 23 Mar 2017 22:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Erle Nickel Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2017 17:13:18 -0700 Do you have some of these for sale or trade? I'm a new member and not quite sure how this all works so excuse my ignorance. A beautiful Ismene! Earl Nickel Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> From anitaroselle@gmail.com Fri, 24 Mar 2017 07:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Arisaema Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 09:16:27 -0400 I would like some input on a problem that I have with Arisaema sikokianum. I can grow it from seed with no problem, then transplant it to small pots with Pro Mix potting soil, it grows beautifully. Then when I plant it in my garden it shrivels up and dies, even a full grown plant given to me grew one season and then died. I have had my soil tested and it was extremely acid, would this have caused the quick demise of my plants? I have not had this extreme a reaction to my soil by other plants but many plants do not do as well as I would like. I have applied the right amount of lime but am hesitant to plant again. I have about 40 small pots of A. sikokianum that I don't want to kill. When lime is applied how often does it have to be done again? There are a few native Jack's in the woods but not as many as I would like, maybe they are affected by the acid as well. Any suggestions on this situation would be very welcome, I am a good grower and this really frustrates me. If it is not the acid what could it be, there has never been any pollutants on my property, it is a north slope partly wooded hillside that has never been anything else. From rdevries@comcast.net Fri, 24 Mar 2017 07:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: <983F079A-90F0-4E00-8EE2-8EE49BE2CC57@comcast.net> From: Rimmer deVries Subject: Arisaema sikokianum Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 09:24:02 -0400 a few questions: - are you planting the sikokes out in the garden with a pocket of the peat based potting soil? or “bulb" freely in native soil? - do the local native Jack’s have any rust? - where is your generalized locality Rimmer SE MI zone 5/6 > On Mar 24, 2017, at 9:16 AM, Anita Roselle wrote: > > I would like some input on a problem that I have with Arisaema sikokianum. > I can grow it from seed with no problem, then transplant it to small pots > with Pro Mix potting soil, it grows beautifully. Then when I plant it in my > garden it shrivels up and dies, even a full grown plant given to me grew > one season and then died. > > I have had my soil tested and it was extremely acid, would this have caused > the quick demise of my plants? I have not had this extreme a reaction to my > soil by other plants but many plants do not do as well as I would like. > > I have applied the right amount of lime but am hesitant to plant again. > I have about 40 small pots of A. sikokianum that I don't want to kill. > When lime is applied how often does it have to be done again? > > There are a few native Jack's in the woods but not as many as I would like, > maybe they are affected by the acid as well. Any suggestions on this > situation would be very welcome, I am a good grower and this really > frustrates me. If it is not the acid what could it be, there has never been > any pollutants on my property, it is a north slope partly wooded hillside > that has never been anything else. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From erik@tepuidesign.com Fri, 24 Mar 2017 07:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: From: Erik Van Lennep Subject: Arisaema Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 14:27:16 +0100 Anita, where is your garden? For the local jacks, I grew them most places I lived over the years in eastern USA, and I'd say in general soils were on the acid end of the spectrum. But are talking peat bog conditions, pine forests, or oak woodlands for instance? I grew A. sikokianum without problems in pine-derived soil in Massachusetts, all Arisaemas which could handle winter temperatures in Vermont (also tending towards very acid). A. candidissimum did very well in both Massachusetts and later in Dublin Ireland, but Dublin tends more alkaline. Both A. sikokianum and A. candidissimum were late risers for me. erik youth and elders short video http://www.linkedin.com/in/erikvanlennep <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> “I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.” —BARRY LOPEZ” On 24 March 2017 at 14:16, Anita Roselle wrote: > I would like some input on a problem that I have with Arisaema sikokianum. > I can grow it from seed with no problem, then transplant it to small pots > with Pro Mix potting soil, it grows beautifully. Then when I plant it in my > garden it shrivels up and dies, even a full grown plant given to me grew > one season and then died. > > I have had my soil tested and it was extremely acid, would this have caused > the quick demise of my plants? I have not had this extreme a reaction to my > soil by other plants but many plants do not do as well as I would like. > > I have applied the right amount of lime but am hesitant to plant again. > I have about 40 small pots of A. sikokianum that I don't want to kill. > When lime is applied how often does it have to be done again? > > There are a few native Jack's in the woods but not as many as I would like, > maybe they are affected by the acid as well. Any suggestions on this > situation would be very welcome, I am a good grower and this really > frustrates me. If it is not the acid what could it be, there has never been > any pollutants on my property, it is a north slope partly wooded hillside > that has never been anything else. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tiede@pacbell.net Fri, 24 Mar 2017 07:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: <609899.75024.bm@smtp218.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: "=?utf-8?B?dGllZGVAcGFjYmVsbC5uZXQ=?=" Subject: New member Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 06:39:21 -0700 Erle is modest. He writes about plants for several publications very well. I always learn something. Welcome, Erle! Cheers Bracey Sent from my HTC on T-Mobile ----- Reply message ----- From: "Erle Nickel" To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" Subject: [pbs] New member Date: Thu, Mar 23, 2017 10:03 AM I just joined PBS this morning and wanted to introduce myself. My name is Earl Nickel and I'm a professional nurseryman at Grand Lake Ace Garden Center in Oakland CA. As well, I write a regular column on different aspects of gardening for the San Francisco Chronicle and Pacific Horticulture magazine. I have a diverse garden that includes a great many bulbs. I have a particular interest in South African bulbs and have written articles on this subject for the above outlets. My new passion is Arisaemas. I've been thinking of joining for years and am glad for finally taking the plunge. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 24 Mar 2017 07:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: <896D0CE8-85C6-4A7C-86E9-690495B998F8@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Arisaema Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 09:09:16 -0500 Dear PBS ers, On Mar 24, 2017, at 8:16 AM, Anita Roselle wrote: I would like some input on a problem that I have with Arisaema It would be very hepful for any post requesting further information to supply some basic information such as: 1. Where is this plant located: City, state, country 2. What is the local environment: woodland, prairie, manicured garden beds? 3. Is the plant growing in a pot or in the ground (see above) 4. Has there been any change in the last 6 to 12 months ? And a reminder that not all species can grow in the same location. Just becuase you grow Species 'A b' like a weed, it does not follow that species ‘A c' or 'A d' wil survive there. And specifically regarding Arisaema there is an active "Arisaema Enthusiast Group (AEG) Discussion List (and other hardy Aroids)” available at: arisaema-l@science.uu.nl Best Jim W. Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From anitaroselle@gmail.com Fri, 24 Mar 2017 07:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Arisaema sikokianum Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 10:14:56 -0400 Rimmer, I am in the North Carolina mountains, zone 6a - 7b depending what elevation you are, I am in a cold pocket, about 2 weeks behind other local gardens. I planted the them only with the small amount of potting soil that was in the 2-3" pot they were in. Have never bare rooted any when I planted them. Plant that was given to me was dug up where some seed had been planted by a mouse or ants, so was in native soil at a friend house that does not have this problem. As far as rust they do not look like they have rust but I don't know what rust looks like on them, I have never seen it on jack's. I am a retired perennial propagator so have grown a lot of plants in various garden and have not had this kind of problem. On Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 9:24 AM, Rimmer deVries wrote: > a few questions: > - are you planting the sikokes out in the garden with a pocket of the peat > based potting soil? or “bulb" freely in native soil? > - do the local native Jack’s have any rust? > - where is your generalized locality > > Rimmer > SE MI zone 5/6 > > > On Mar 24, 2017, at 9:16 AM, Anita Roselle > wrote: > > > > I would like some input on a problem that I have with Arisaema > sikokianum. > > I can grow it from seed with no problem, then transplant it to small pots > > with Pro Mix potting soil, it grows beautifully. Then when I plant it in > my > > garden it shrivels up and dies, even a full grown plant given to me grew > > one season and then died. > > > > I have had my soil tested and it was extremely acid, would this have > caused > > the quick demise of my plants? I have not had this extreme a reaction to > my > > soil by other plants but many plants do not do as well as I would like. > > > > I have applied the right amount of lime but am hesitant to plant again. > > I have about 40 small pots of A. sikokianum that I don't want to kill. > > When lime is applied how often does it have to be done again? > > > > There are a few native Jack's in the woods but not as many as I would > like, > > maybe they are affected by the acid as well. Any suggestions on this > > situation would be very welcome, I am a good grower and this really > > frustrates me. If it is not the acid what could it be, there has never > been > > any pollutants on my property, it is a north slope partly wooded hillside > > that has never been anything else. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rdevries@comcast.net Fri, 24 Mar 2017 08:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Rimmer deVries Subject: Arisaema sikokianum Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 10:36:49 -0400 next time remove all potting soil from the "bulb" when you plant the in garden as the potting soil dries out differently than the native soil and can either be too wet or too dry relative to the native soil. best is to plant out in late summer- fall- winter when dormant and no roots. i just put them in an area rich with leafmold. if you walk the woods and see orange spots on the local jacks then rust is present. the local jacks are tolerant of the rust but the exotic jacks are not tolerant of rust and it can wipe out an Arisaema collection. you got rust in > On Mar 24, 2017, at 10:14 AM, Anita Roselle wrote: > > I am in the North Carolina mountains, zone 6a - 7b depending what > elevation you are, I am in a cold pocket, about 2 weeks behind other local > gardens. > > I planted the them only with the small amount of potting soil that was in > the 2-3" pot they were in. Have never bare rooted any when I planted them. > Plant that was given to me was dug up where some seed had been planted by a > mouse or ants, so > was in native soil at a friend house that does not have this problem. > > As far as rust they do not look like they have rust but I don't know what > rust looks like on them, I have never seen it on jack's. I am a retired > perennial propagator so have grown a lot of plants in various garden and > have not had this kind of problem. > From nortonc26@hotmail.com Fri, 24 Mar 2017 08:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: norton cuba melly Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 15:10:35 +0000 Hello Earl, No sorry, Im only germinating plants for conservation. But willing too share information about cultivation. Best regards Norton ________________________________ From: pbs on behalf of Erle Nickel Sent: Friday, March 24, 2017 12:13 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Ismene amancaes bulbs Do you have some of these for sale or trade? I'm a new member and not quite sure how this all works so excuse my ignorance. A beautiful Ismene! Earl Nickel Virus-free. www.avg.com [http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6b/AVG_wordmark.png/220px-AVG_wordmark.png] AVG 2017 | FREE Antivirus & TuneUp for PC, Mac, Android www.avg.com Download FREE antivirus and malware protection. Tune up your PC, Mac and Android devices for peak performance. Surf safely and privately, wherever you are. <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Pacific Bulb Society | List pacificbulbsociety.org The PBS List is an email discussion of bulbs, sponsored by the Pacific Bulb Society, for people around the world. Although bulbs (defined more broadly to include all ... http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Welcome to the Pacific Bulb Society Wiki pacificbulbsociety.org This guide was created by the members of the Pacific Bulb Society e-mail discussion list, a group of people from around the world who are interested in growing and ... From jgglatt@gmail.com Fri, 24 Mar 2017 09:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: <4d85b018-3160-9956-c524-88db229f076e@gmail.com> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: A Song About Amancaes Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 11:27:30 -0400 My brother, an anthropologist, gave me this tidbit when I was writing a book about bulbs. From my research notes: _Amencaes_ is the Peruvian name for their native summer daffodil, used as its species name, _Hymenocallis_ _amencaes_. My brother, Ben Orlove, remembers a song he'd heard, a "vals criollo" that mentions the flowers. Written and composed by Chabuca Granda, this kind of waltz used to be popular on the coast of Peru. The lyrics go something like this: "Elegantly dressed in traditional style, wearing a poncho of white linen, "Jose Antonio" is an accomplished horseman, showing fine mastery riding his horse. Why, asks the woman, why did he leave her, hoping that when he returns to see the amancay in bloom, he will sweep her up on his horse." Enjoy. Judy in New Jersey where there are gray and gloomy skies but temperatures are high enough for precipitation to descend as rain rather than the white stuff From anitaroselle@gmail.com Fri, 24 Mar 2017 09:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Fwd: Arisaema sikokianum Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 11:34:38 -0400 ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Anita Roselle Date: Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 11:21 AM Subject: Arisaema sikokianum To: pbs@listz.ibiblio.org Dr. Waddick and Erik I am located in the mountains, Brevard, Transylvania County, North Carolina, Zone 6a - 7b. I am on a wooded north slope hillside, now only partly wooded. When tested it was 4.6 to 5.8 in various beds. Only one place was it 6.6 The woods were logged many years ago but not since, they are tulip popular, beech, dogwood, maples, some young oak's coming in, a few hemlock and white pines. I have a planting bed that I developed at the top of a bank down to a stream. I incorporated a lot of wood chips and some manure there about 7-8 years ago, and have added wood chips every couple of years since. I have been planting plants there ever since both native and non-native. The native azaleas, camellia, ferns, hostas, magnolia, daylillies, trillium, astilbe, aquelliga, phlox divericata, holly ect. have been doing all right, some better than others. I also planted some jack's farther down along the stream under the over hang of a native azalea where the soil has not been amended, they died there as well. The Trillium cuneatum and T. luteum, are both in that area and doing very well. The deer did eat my T. vaseyi, it did come back, now has a wire cage around it. T. grandflorum is fine and T. catesbaei [ from a plant rescue ] is also doing fine. They were only in pots for a year from germination. The ones I still have, have been in pots since, this will be their 3rd or 4th year. There has been no change in the bed, the light/shade, mulch, water or fertilizer that I am aware of. There are not a whole lot of Jack's in the woods, but I have thought that the deer eat them off, they do eat the young shoots of Christmas fern and Trillium I know that they did not eat my japanese arisaem's their foliage just did not grow, not cut off by a bite. I got your recent message, maybe it was the potting soil drying, I'll try that. I plant most other things with potting soil and have not had a problem as far as I know. Should I wait until they are fully up or bareroot them now and plant them. They are up about 1 - 1 1/2 inches right now but in a cold frame. Perhaps I should bareroot them, plant them and protect them from frost if we get it. That seems like the better approach. From anitaroselle@gmail.com Fri, 24 Mar 2017 09:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Arisaema sikokianum Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 12:06:17 -0400 On Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 11:21 AM, Anita Roselle wrote: > Dr. Waddick and Erik > > > I am located in the mountains, Brevard, Transylvania County, North > Carolina, Zone 6a - 7b. I am on a wooded north slope hillside, now only > partly wooded. When tested it was 4.6 to 5.8 in various beds. Only one > place was it 6.6 > The woods were logged many years ago but not since, they are tulip > popular, beech, dogwood, maples, some young oak's coming in, a few hemlock > and white pines. > > I have a planting bed that I developed at the top of a bank down to a > stream. I incorporated a lot of wood chips and some manure there about 7-8 > years ago, and have added wood chips every couple of years since. I have > been planting plants there ever since both native and non-native. The > native azaleas, camellia, ferns, hostas, magnolia, daylillies, trillium, > astilbe, aquelliga, phlox divericata, holly ect. have been doing all right, > some better than others. > > I also planted some jack's farther down along the stream under the over > hang of a native azalea where the soil has not been amended, they died > there as well. > > The Trillium cuneatum and T. luteum, are both in that area and doing very > well. The deer did eat my T. vaseyi, it did come back, now has a wire cage > around it. T. grandflorum is fine and T. catesbaei [ from a plant rescue ] > is also doing fine. > > They were only in pots for a year from germination. The ones I still have, > have been in pots since, this will be their 3rd or 4th year. > There has been no change in the bed, the light/shade, mulch, water or > fertilizer that I am aware of. > > There are not a whole lot of Jack's in the woods, but I have thought that > the deer eat them off, they do eat the young shoots of Christmas fern and > Trillium I know that they did not eat my japanese arisaem's their foliage > just did not grow, not cut off by a bite. > > > From teck11@embarqmail.com Fri, 24 Mar 2017 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <007001d2a4ba$da7cf3e0$8f76dba0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Fwd: Arisaema sikokianum Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 12:22:35 -0400 I believe the potting soil drying is not due to drying per se, but rather a root tropism designed to deal with rocks. Since all potting soils are very loose, many native soils can appear to be rocks in comparison (especially clays). The root growth then tries to avoid the rock and ends up circling the hole without breaking into the native soil. In pots, this is called 'spin' because the roots circle the perimeter of the pot. Out in the ground, this will not show as a problem in rainy weather but after a couple of weeks without rain, the roots absorb all the moisture in the potting soil and then the plant dehydrates and dies. > I got your recent message, maybe it was the potting soil drying, I'll try that. I > plant most other things with potting soil and have not had a problem as far as > I know. > Should I wait until they are fully up or bareroot them now and plant them. > They are up about 1 - 1 1/2 inches right now but in a cold frame. Perhaps I > should bareroot them, plant them and protect them from frost if we get it. > That seems like the better approach. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From anitaroselle@gmail.com Fri, 24 Mar 2017 20:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Fwd: Arisaema sikokianum Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 22:25:14 -0400 Tim, I suppose that could have happened, I am familiar with root tropism in pots. They were planted in 2015 when we had plenty of rain, we are in a temperate rain forrest according to the Nat. Weather Serv. Last summer we had an unpresedented drought, I have been here over 20 years and never seen it so dry. We usually get up to 60 inches of rain and we were about 35 inches short, I think that we only got about 25" all season. To many people in other places that seems like a lot but when you are used to a lot of rain, the plants are used to it and have adapted to it. However we can't grow good geraniums because of to much moisture an humidity and other dry climate plants. I am going to bareroot some of them and plant them in some very loose soil and see what happens, our soil is predomantly clay here. I will make sure they don't get dried out. If I do it now they will have to have some protection as we can get frost any time in April. Will see what happens, I would really like to have them in my garden. On Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 12:22 PM, Tim Eck wrote: > I believe the potting soil drying is not due to drying per se, but rather a > root tropism designed to deal with rocks. > Since all potting soils are very loose, many native soils can appear to be > rocks in comparison (especially clays). The root growth then tries to > avoid > the rock and ends up circling the hole without breaking into the native > soil. In pots, this is called 'spin' because the roots circle the > perimeter > of the pot. Out in the ground, this will not show as a problem in rainy > weather but after a couple of weeks without rain, the roots absorb all the > moisture in the potting soil and then the plant dehydrates and dies. > > > > > I got your recent message, maybe it was the potting soil drying, I'll try > that. I > > plant most other things with potting soil and have not had a problem as > far as > > I know. > > Should I wait until they are fully up or bareroot them now and plant > them. > > They are up about 1 - 1 1/2 inches right now but in a cold frame. Perhaps > I > > should bareroot them, plant them and protect them from frost if we get > it. > > That seems like the better approach. > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 25 Mar 2017 01:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Fwd: Arisaema sikokianum Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2017 07:34:02 +0000 I do not have a lot of experience with A sikokianum, which is regarded as a tricky species to grow outside in most of the UK. The reasons for this are a combination of cold, and winter rain. Zones 6a to 7b sound cold for this species, if growing in the ground.... Wood chips also take some time to decay, and until they do, are detrimental to the soil for many plants. Peter UK On 24 March 2017 at 15:34, Anita Roselle wrote: > > Subject: Arisaema sikokianum > > I am located in the mountains, Brevard, Transylvania County, North > Carolina, Zone 6a - 7b. I am on a wooded north slope hillside, now only > partly wooded. When tested it was 4.6 to 5.8 in various beds. Only one > place was it 6.6 > The woods were logged many years ago but not since, they are tulip popular, > beech, dogwood, maples, some young oak's coming in, a few hemlock and white > pines. > > > From rdevries@comcast.net Sat, 25 Mar 2017 04:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Rimmer deVries Subject: Fwd: Arisaema sikokianum Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2017 06:52:21 -0400 Add balanced granular fertilizer to the wood chips to make up for the nitrogen depletion of the decaying wood chips Rimmer > Peter Taggart wrote: > > Wood chips also take some time to decay, and until they do, are detrimental > to the soil for many From vbouffard55@msn.com Sat, 25 Mar 2017 05:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Vivien Bouffard Subject: A Song About Amancaes Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2017 11:34:19 +0000 Hi Judy - I was just (re)reading that book a couple weeks ago and enjoyed your brother's tidbit and the rest of the book, too. I suppose a lot of nomenclature has changed since you wrote it. That must be frustrating after working so hard to make everything correct. I look forward to your posts as you are geographically not so far from Massachusetts. We had early warmth here, which made the snowdrops and snow crocuses bloom and then 12-18 inches of snow and temps in the teens. The snow is receding now and the bunnies are hard at work eating any foliage they can find. Remains to be seen how much damage was done to the tree buds, but ground-level everything is fine. I'm coping with spring fever by planting absurd numbers of seeds from the NARGS seedex. Vivien Norwood, MA Zone 6 << Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2017 11:27:30 -0400 From: Judy Glattstein > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] A Song About Amancaes Message-ID: <4d85b018-3160-9956-c524-88db229f076e@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed My brother, an anthropologist, gave me this tidbit when I was writing a book about bulbs. From my research notes: _Amencaes_ is the Peruvian name for their native summer daffodil, used as its species name, _Hymenocallis_ _amencaes_. My brother, Ben Orlove, remembers a song he'd heard, a "vals criollo" that mentions the flowers. Written and composed by Chabuca Granda, this kind of waltz used to be popular on the coast of Peru. The lyrics go something like this: "Elegantly dressed in traditional style, wearing a poncho of white linen, "Jose Antonio" is an accomplished horseman, showing fine mastery riding his horse. Why, asks the woman, why did he leave her, hoping that when he returns to see the amancay in bloom, he will sweep her up on his horse." Enjoy. Judy in New Jersey where there are gray and gloomy skies but temperatures are high enough for precipitation to descend as rain rather than the white stuff>> From anitaroselle@gmail.com Sun, 26 Mar 2017 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Fwd: Arisaema sikokianum Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2017 10:20:21 -0400 Hi Rimmer, I do fertilize my beds, however the soil test stated that none was needed. I'm leaning toward the roots having the problem of not penetrating the soil in the bed. I have used the woodchip mulch for years, it binds up the nitrogen in the first few years but when it decomposes further it then releases the nitrogen. If you use it constantly you have that problem in the first couple of years and then it has a bind and release cycle as it decays, so there is enough nitrogen. In my friends garden the A. sikokanum grow very well and self sow all around even in the woodland, very special sight to see. We will see how my barerooted ones do this year. Weather predictions are for having another dry summer, ugh! Last summer I spent a good deal of time making sure the numerous newly planted plants all got suffecient water, supplementing the rain is one thing but having to apply all the water is exhausting. Fortunately I have a very good well, because at the present time the little stream, the mountain people call a little,stream a 'branch', is bone dry. I live at the very beginning of a river called 'The French Broad River', there is a North Fork, South Fork and Middle Fork, all feeding the French Broad. About 50 miles down steam it becomes a river, quite wide but some what shallow. It eventually flows into the Tennessee River and then eventually the Mississippi. I am only about 10 miles from the Contennintal Divide, the place where water either goes to the Atlantic or to the Gulf of Mexico, all our water goes to the Gulf. On Sat, Mar 25, 2017 at 6:52 AM, Rimmer deVries wrote: > Add balanced granular fertilizer to the wood chips to make up for the > nitrogen depletion of the decaying wood chips > > Rimmer > > > Peter Taggart wrote: > > > > Wood chips also take some time to decay, and until they do, are > detrimental > > to the soil for many > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From tiede@pacbell.net Sun, 26 Mar 2017 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <01a701d2a63e$df240a70$9d6c1f50$@net> From: "Bracey Tiede" Subject: Wood Chip Myth Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2017 07:40:09 -0700 When using arborist's wood chips (not retail bark chips) in the garden, the chips do not bind up nitrogen in the soil if you just lay them on top of the soil. Here the arborist's chips are free but you do have to take a truck load, about 10-13 cu.ft. if you are spreading them yourself. Research on this topic can be found at: http://gardenprofessors.com/new-extension-publication-on-wood-chip-mulches/ Cheers, Bracey San Jose CA From bruceandjill.schroder@gmail.com Sun, 26 Mar 2017 16:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Bruce Schroder Subject: Ismene amancaes bulbs - Erle Nickel Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 09:39:26 +1100 Erle - if only it was that simple!! I have been seeking seeds of this sp for years (although not through PBS as it is not a buy/swap/sell forum). Bulbs would be nice but it is illegal to import plant material into Australia. Bruce Schroder - Melbourne, Australia. From penstemon@Q.com Sun, 26 Mar 2017 16:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: Wood Chip Myth Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2017 16:47:22 -0600 >When using arborist's wood chips (not retail bark chips) in the garden, the >chips do not bind up nitrogen in the soil if you just lay them on top of the >soil. Here the arborist's chips are free but you do have to take a truck >load, about 10-13 cu.ft. if you are spreading them yourself. In a semiarid climate like mine, wood mulches, like mulches of other organic matter, prevent rainfall from reaching the soil. I use gravel, or no mulch at all. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA From jane@deskhenge.com Sun, 26 Mar 2017 17:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane Sargent Subject: Judy´s Peruvian song about Amancaes Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2017 19:32:08 -0400 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9P0-7IaaOY&list=PL1A667BA541845D3A From anitaroselle@gmail.com Sun, 26 Mar 2017 17:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Wood Chip Myth Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2017 19:56:14 -0400 Bob, The free arborist woodchips are what I use, it fits my pocketbook and does a good job. When I see trees being trimmed I stop and ask if they need a place to dump them, usually they do. Where I am now there is a kids camp, they have a lot of tree work done every year and I usually get it from them, dumped at my place. I have a lot of areas planted and I could not keep up with the weeds without it. If you get it from a arborist who has a good chipper it is pretty uniform in size and looks good. When I want something nicer I get some from a local saw mill, it is finer and breaks down faster, its the bark and wood that comes off when they cut to flatten the tree for slicing. They also have sawdust but I rarely if ever use that. Around here the electric company trims the trees along their line about every 2 years and they always need to have a place to dump them, they contract with a co. called Asplund, I have used their chips also. I understand the problem in dry climates, I have made a real rock garden, created a 15" layer of fast draining soil, 1/3 decomposed wood chips, 1/2 sand and 1/3 gravel-small. I grow as many small dry climate plants as will decide to accomadate me. Most purchased from Laport Ave. Nursery, Fort Collins, CO. In the rock garden I use a gravel mulch, I have a friend that has most of her garden mulched with the gravel. She is a nationally known rockgardener. So many things self sow very successfully in the gravel. I have not been able to do it that extensively due to budget, gravel is very expensive here, haven't found a way to get that free yet. Here we usually get up to 60" of rain a year, it's a temperate rain forrest according to the Nat. Weather Serv. Everything grows with abandon except the one plant I have had a problem with. On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 6:47 PM, penstemon wrote: > > >When using arborist's wood chips (not retail bark chips) in the garden, > the > >chips do not bind up nitrogen in the soil if you just lay them on top of > the > >soil. Here the arborist's chips are free but you do have to take a truck > >load, about 10-13 cu.ft. if you are spreading them yourself. > > In a semiarid climate like mine, wood mulches, like mulches of other > organic matter, prevent rainfall from reaching the soil. > I use gravel, or no mulch at all. > Bob Nold > Denver, Colorado, USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jimb@customwindowsupply.com Mon, 27 Mar 2017 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jim Barton Subject: Wood Chip Myth Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 14:48:20 +0000 Where I live in the central valley of California 2 inch almond chips are readily available, from orchard removal. They make an excellent top dressing for weed control, but they have 2 drawbacks. 1 It takes a lot of water to wet the soil below the chips. 2 Invertebrates live in the mulch, and will cut off soft stemmed herbaceous plants at ground level under the chips. Woody plants do not seem to be affected by these same invertebrates. JIM From robin@hansennursery.com Mon, 27 Mar 2017 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <001401d2a71d$87a65200$96f2f600$@hansennursery.com> From: "Hansen Nursery" Subject: Noxious Weed Lists for the U.S. Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 10:14:00 -0700 http://nationalplantboard.org/laws-and-regulations/ The above website was provided by my ag inspector. He said you can find the noxious weed lists for each state at this site. Robin Hansen Hansen Nursery robin@hansennursery.com From penstemon@Q.com Mon, 27 Mar 2017 13:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <681D58FAA8F841B3B205B5BB47731E57@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: Wood Chip Myth Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 13:42:12 -0600 >It takes a lot of water to wet the soil below the chips. Exactly. Here, if it rains in the summer (which it does, occasionally), the rain only penetrates the first few millimeters of clay soil, and the water evaporates rapidly. Mulch on top of this soil does not reach the soil surface. It would have to rain for days on end for water to penetrate the mulch and then get far enough down to plant roots. Which is why the garden in the back yard here is a series of mounds, or berms, mostly of clay soil, with a lot of gravel mixed in. The only time the mounds get sufficient water to reach the roots of bulbs, etc., is from melting snow in late winter. I also, incidentally, have a couple of “rain gardens”, which are constructed in exactly the opposite way such gardens are usually made: raised beds of sand and gravel, nothing else. Highly-permeable “soil” which allows rain from a brief thunderstorm to penetrate down to roots. One of these beds, which has too much sand, has been a spectacular failure, since I overlooked the possibility of a perched water table at the interface between a pile of sand and gravel, and clay soil. The sand also remains wet at a greater depth than anywhere else in the garden; bulbs planted from the middle to lower end of the sand pile tend to rot. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From louisrichard11@gmail.com Mon, 27 Mar 2017 14:17:09 -0700 Message-Id: From: Louis Richard Subject: Wood Chip Myth Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 16:18:23 -0400 We use about 120 metric cubes a year of Ramial chip wood each year and it improved our work and the health of our plants. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramial_chipped_wood Many people confuse Ramial chip wood with chip wood while it's not the same product. Here's an interesting link for those of you who can read French (and you might also use a translation site!). http://agriculture-de-conservation.com/Le-bois-rameal-fragmente-un-outil.html Regards, Louis Richard Matane, Québec, Canada (Zone 4b) http://www.jardinsdedoris.ca/index.html https://www.facebook.com/pages/Les-jardins-de-Doris/355727243167?fref=ts 2017-03-27 15:42 GMT-04:00 penstemon : > >It takes a lot of water to wet the soil below the chips. > > Exactly. > Here, if it rains in the summer (which it does, occasionally), the rain > only penetrates the first few millimeters of clay soil, and the water > evaporates rapidly. Mulch on top of this soil does not reach the soil > surface. It would have to rain for days on end for water to penetrate the > mulch and then get far enough down to plant roots. > Which is why the garden in the back yard here is a series of mounds, or > berms, mostly of clay soil, with a lot of gravel mixed in. The only time > the mounds get sufficient water to reach the roots of bulbs, etc., is from > melting snow in late winter. > I also, incidentally, have a couple of “rain gardens”, which are > constructed in exactly the opposite way such gardens are usually made: > raised beds of sand and gravel, nothing else. Highly-permeable “soil” which > allows rain from a brief thunderstorm to penetrate down to roots. > One of these beds, which has too much sand, has been a spectacular > failure, since I overlooked the possibility of a perched water table at the > interface between a pile of sand and gravel, and clay soil. The sand also > remains wet at a greater depth than anywhere else in the garden; bulbs > planted from the middle to lower end of the sand pile tend to rot. > Bob Nold > Denver, Colorado, USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Mon, 27 Mar 2017 14:17:09 -0700 Message-Id: From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: Arisaema disappearing Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 22:40:38 +0200 > Hello Anita, > > Your difficulty with disappearing Arisaema sikokianum seems quite > amazing. Myself I have never managed to grow it beyond seedling stage > and have given up on it. The growing conditions you describe sound > perfect, I imagine the soil you prepared this way as a deep rich loose > and humusy soil. Is there nobody out there who has seen this plant in > the wild? Does it not want that kind of soil? > I looked it up in my Arisaema book by Gusman: They describe it as > easily grown but short lived (!) and recommend a raised bed with ample > drainage and a soil of sandy peat accompanied by small rhododendrons. > Otherwise they state the tubers will rot from winter wet. (I do not > know where they garden) That sounds to be the most likely explanation > of your problem. > What also strikes me is the fact that you are very successful with it > in pots. So why don't you grow it on in pots to flowering size? > All of my Arisaemas are potted. A. candidissimum and A. fargesii are > also growing in the open garden. But when it comes to pamper small > offsets to flowering size pot culture is far better than open garden > culture. This experience was confirmed by a friend who runs a small > bulb nursery. Both of us cannot explain this. > There is of course a certain inconvenience in pot culture. But don't > we all do a lot for our treasures? > For substrate in my pots I use my own garden compost from the compost > pile with some general fertilizer added. All my pots are attached to > an automatic watering system in summer so that they never dry out. > Excellent results with A. tortuosum and different forms of A. > consanguineum beside the two mentioned above. They are repotted every > year into fresh compost. The dormant tubers are stored totally dry in > their pots in their compost in my cellar. > I would not bare root them now because you said they have already > broken dormancy, this would cause considerable if not fatal root > disturbance. > > Hope that helps > > Uli > > From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Mon, 27 Mar 2017 14:17:09 -0700 Message-Id: <8c880226-805c-6468-8cb4-d1efdd9e5501@t-online.de> From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: Fritillaria imperialis Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 22:42:16 +0200 > Dear All, > > Having sown seed of a particularly large form of F. imperialis several > times without success I wonder how your experience is with this plant. > I have tried several different ways: sowing fresh seed immediately > after ripening, sowing dried seed in autumn, keeping the seedpot > either in the garden or greenhouse during winter. The mother bulb is > about to flower but again not a single seed has germinated. I opened > some fresh seeds before sowing, they were all thick, fleshy and white > inside, not empty shells. > Where is my mistake? Is it perhaps a sterile clone? Do they need a > special treatment to break a prolonged dormancy? The seeds now feel > empty and dead to the touch. > Any advice is appreciated. > > Bye for today > > Uli > From janjeddeloh@gmail.com Mon, 27 Mar 2017 14:17:09 -0700 Message-Id: <9E4CF6ED-0E1E-4583-9986-A0CFC79300D0@gmail.com> From: Jan Jeddeloh Subject: Fritillaria imperialis Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 14:11:49 -0700 Have you held the seed up to the light to see if you can see an embryo? If there is one you should be able to see it. It looks sort of like a line in most lilies and frits. Jan Jeddeloh > On Mar 27, 2017, at 1:42 PM, Johannes Ulrich Urban wrote: > > > >> Dear All, >> >> Having sown seed of a particularly large form of F. imperialis several times without success I wonder how your experience is with this plant. I have tried several different ways: sowing fresh seed immediately after ripening, sowing dried seed in autumn, keeping the seedpot either in the garden or greenhouse during winter. The mother bulb is about to flower but again not a single seed has germinated. I opened some fresh seeds before sowing, they were all thick, fleshy and white inside, not empty shells. >> Where is my mistake? Is it perhaps a sterile clone? Do they need a special treatment to break a prolonged dormancy? The seeds now feel empty and dead to the touch. >> Any advice is appreciated. >> >> Bye for today >> >> Uli >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From anitaroselle@gmail.com Mon, 27 Mar 2017 16:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Wood Chip Myth Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 18:21:55 -0400 Louis, penstemon and Jim, Interesting articlies, but where does one find something that translates them? Does it do it instantly or what, it looks like a really lovely public garden. I would like to be able to look at it translated. Where I live we have so much rain that getting the water to penetrate the mulch is no problem. It tends to break down rather fast here. If I put on 2-4" of chips in 2 years it is pretty much decomposed. Because of that much rain the soil on the mountains is actually rather poor, the rain washes decomposing litter down and it gets deposited in the valley, there is a market for good rich black river bottom soil here. There is not the lovely dark layer of decomposing forrest litter that is found in most eastern forests, the rain washes it down hill. I had to be aware of the soil layers when I constructed my rock garden, I mixed the soil and then incorporated a portion of it into the soil that I was covering up so that there was not a sharp line where they meet. It has seemed to work, I have no problems with the plants in the rock garden. On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 4:18 PM, Louis Richard wrote: > We use about 120 metric cubes a year of Ramial chip wood each year and it > improved our work and the health of our plants. > > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramial_chipped_wood > > Many people confuse Ramial chip wood with chip wood while it's not the same > product. > > Here's an interesting link for those of you who can read French (and you > might also use a translation site!). > > http://agriculture-de-conservation.com/Le-bois- > rameal-fragmente-un-outil.html > > Regards, > > Louis Richard > > Matane, Québec, Canada (Zone 4b) > > http://www.jardinsdedoris.ca/index.html > > https://www.facebook.com/pages/Les-jardins-de-Doris/355727243167?fref=ts > > > > 2017-03-27 15:42 GMT-04:00 penstemon : > > > >It takes a lot of water to wet the soil below the chips. > > > > Exactly. > > Here, if it rains in the summer (which it does, occasionally), the rain > > only penetrates the first few millimeters of clay soil, and the water > > evaporates rapidly. Mulch on top of this soil does not reach the soil > > surface. It would have to rain for days on end for water to penetrate the > > mulch and then get far enough down to plant roots. > > Which is why the garden in the back yard here is a series of mounds, or > > berms, mostly of clay soil, with a lot of gravel mixed in. The only time > > the mounds get sufficient water to reach the roots of bulbs, etc., is > from > > melting snow in late winter. > > I also, incidentally, have a couple of “rain gardens”, which are > > constructed in exactly the opposite way such gardens are usually made: > > raised beds of sand and gravel, nothing else. Highly-permeable “soil” > which > > allows rain from a brief thunderstorm to penetrate down to roots. > > One of these beds, which has too much sand, has been a spectacular > > failure, since I overlooked the possibility of a perched water table at > the > > interface between a pile of sand and gravel, and clay soil. The sand also > > remains wet at a greater depth than anywhere else in the garden; bulbs > > planted from the middle to lower end of the sand pile tend to rot. > > Bob Nold > > Denver, Colorado, USA > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From anitaroselle@gmail.com Mon, 27 Mar 2017 16:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Arisaema disappearing Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 18:57:33 -0400 Uli, If I had paid more attention to this property when I moved and started the garden, I would have made most of my growing areas raised and incorporated a lot more compost and GRAVEL before planting anything. I had never heard of mixing gravel in a planting bed. I moved from SE Pennsylvania where I had the kind of soil that is perfect woodland duff. Now I have the clay, a lot of rain and less than perfect drainage. It is almost impossible to start over, I have been trying to get the drainage better a little at a time. The A. sikokianum died rather quickly, it wasn't poor drainage, it just never grew at all and died. I never had anything react the way they did, they never took off or thrived just rapidly went down hill, they were on a slope where lots of other plants are doing will. I have about 45 of them in 2" pots right now, some up about 4", perhaps the best thing to do is put them in several large pots and enjoy them that way. It is so frustrating to see them thriving at my friends house and not at mine, it's a mystery When you store them in their pots, have you repotted then in the fall or do you do that in the spring before they wake up? I have seed from our seed offering and I don't know if I should start it now or wait till fall so they will germinate next spring? Thank you for your input, I appreciate it. Anita R. On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 4:40 PM, Johannes Ulrich Urban < johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de> wrote: > > > > > Hello Anita, >> >> Your difficulty with disappearing Arisaema sikokianum seems quite >> amazing. Myself I have never managed to grow it beyond seedling stage and >> have given up on it. The growing conditions you describe sound perfect, I >> imagine the soil you prepared this way as a deep rich loose and humusy >> soil. Is there nobody out there who has seen this plant in the wild? Does >> it not want that kind of soil? >> I looked it up in my Arisaema book by Gusman: They describe it as easily >> grown but short lived (!) and recommend a raised bed with ample drainage >> and a soil of sandy peat accompanied by small rhododendrons. Otherwise they >> state the tubers will rot from winter wet. (I do not know where they >> garden) That sounds to be the most likely explanation of your problem. >> What also strikes me is the fact that you are very successful with it in >> pots. So why don't you grow it on in pots to flowering size? >> All of my Arisaemas are potted. A. candidissimum and A. fargesii are also >> growing in the open garden. But when it comes to pamper small offsets to >> flowering size pot culture is far better than open garden culture. This >> experience was confirmed by a friend who runs a small bulb nursery. Both of >> us cannot explain this. >> There is of course a certain inconvenience in pot culture. But don't we >> all do a lot for our treasures? >> For substrate in my pots I use my own garden compost from the compost >> pile with some general fertilizer added. All my pots are attached to an >> automatic watering system in summer so that they never dry out. Excellent >> results with A. tortuosum and different forms of A. consanguineum beside >> the two mentioned above. They are repotted every year into fresh compost. >> The dormant tubers are stored totally dry in their pots in their compost in >> my cellar. >> I would not bare root them now because you said they have already broken >> dormancy, this would cause considerable if not fatal root disturbance. >> >> Hope that helps >> >> Uli >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 27 Mar 2017 17:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <4494133e-1dad-d008-9962-c1a6a70ae955@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Fritillaria imperialis Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 16:25:01 -0700 I have had success sowing seed of Fritillaria imperialis in autumn, after dry storage at room temperature after harvesting it. However, perhaps Uli's "particularly large" form is a triploid. Triploid Fritillaria are known, for example in populations of Fritillaria affinis in the region around San Francisco Bay. They have unusually large flowers and are sterile. Fertile seeds will have a visible embryo, though in F. imperialis the seeds are quite thick and it may be harder to see the embryo. In addition, Fritillaria seem to be self-sterile, so if Uli is self-pollinating his special plant, fertile seeds will not form. Another problem with getting fertile seed of this species may be flowering during a time when temperatures are too cold for effective fertilization. I grew my F. imperialis plants from seed of yellow-flowered plants, but so far all of mine have typical orange flowers, which must be dominant and reflect the pollen parents. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA On 3/27/2017 1:42 PM, Johannes Ulrich Urban wrote: > > >> Dear All, >> >> Having sown seed of a particularly large form of F. imperialis >> several times without success I wonder how your experience is with >> this plant. I have tried several different ways: sowing fresh seed >> immediately after ripening, sowing dried seed in autumn, keeping the >> seedpot either in the garden or greenhouse during winter. The mother >> bulb is about to flower but again not a single seed has germinated. I >> opened some fresh seeds before sowing, they were all thick, fleshy >> and white inside, not empty shells. >> Where is my mistake? Is it perhaps a sterile clone? Do they need a >> special treatment to break a prolonged dormancy? The seeds now feel >> empty and dead to the touch. >> Any advice is appreciated. >> From david@davidpilling.com Mon, 27 Mar 2017 17:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Fritillaria imperialis Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 00:28:32 +0100 Hi, On 27/03/17 22:11, Jan Jeddeloh wrote: > Have you held the seed up to the light to see if you can see an embryo? Have a look at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/FritillariaGermination Something like "Seeds that have an underdeveloped embryo at the time of dispersal and require specific temperature conditions for embryo development and radicle and cotyledon emergence have morphophysiological dormancy (MPD)" Short version of the URL: https://goo.gl/0rbSdJ Put it another way just because you can't see the embryo does not mean the seed is a dud, the embryo may develop later. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From louisrichard11@gmail.com Mon, 27 Mar 2017 20:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Louis Richard Subject: Wood Chip Myth Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 22:17:44 -0400 Hi Anita, You might use Google translate. https://translate.google.ca/ You just have to copy the French text and paste it in the appropriate box. Regards, Louis 2017-03-27 18:21 GMT-04:00 Anita Roselle : > Louis, penstemon and Jim, > > Interesting articlies, but where does one find something that translates > them? Does it do it instantly or what, it looks like a really lovely public > garden. I would like to be able to look at it translated. > > > Where I live we have so much rain that getting the water to penetrate the > mulch is no problem. It tends to break down rather fast here. If I put on > 2-4" of chips in 2 years it is pretty much decomposed. Because of that much > rain the soil on the mountains is actually rather poor, the rain washes > decomposing litter down and it gets deposited in the valley, there is a > market for good rich black river bottom soil here. There is not the lovely > dark layer of decomposing forrest litter that is found in most eastern > forests, the rain washes it down hill. > > I had to be aware of the soil layers when I constructed my rock garden, I > mixed the soil and then incorporated a portion of it into the soil that I > was covering up so that there was not a sharp line where they meet. It has > seemed to work, I have no problems with the plants in the rock garden. > > > > On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 4:18 PM, Louis Richard > wrote: > > > We use about 120 metric cubes a year of Ramial chip wood each year and it > > improved our work and the health of our plants. > > > > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramial_chipped_wood > > > > Many people confuse Ramial chip wood with chip wood while it's not the > same > > product. > > > > Here's an interesting link for those of you who can read French (and you > > might also use a translation site!). > > > > http://agriculture-de-conservation.com/Le-bois- > > rameal-fragmente-un-outil.html > > > > Regards, > > > > Louis Richard > > > > Matane, Québec, Canada (Zone 4b) > > > > http://www.jardinsdedoris.ca/index.html > > > > https://www.facebook.com/pages/Les-jardins-de-Doris/355727243167?fref=ts > > > > > > > > 2017-03-27 15:42 GMT-04:00 penstemon : > > > > > >It takes a lot of water to wet the soil below the chips. > > > > > > Exactly. > > > Here, if it rains in the summer (which it does, occasionally), the rain > > > only penetrates the first few millimeters of clay soil, and the water > > > evaporates rapidly. Mulch on top of this soil does not reach the soil > > > surface. It would have to rain for days on end for water to penetrate > the > > > mulch and then get far enough down to plant roots. > > > Which is why the garden in the back yard here is a series of mounds, or > > > berms, mostly of clay soil, with a lot of gravel mixed in. The only > time > > > the mounds get sufficient water to reach the roots of bulbs, etc., is > > from > > > melting snow in late winter. > > > I also, incidentally, have a couple of “rain gardens”, which are > > > constructed in exactly the opposite way such gardens are usually made: > > > raised beds of sand and gravel, nothing else. Highly-permeable “soil” > > which > > > allows rain from a brief thunderstorm to penetrate down to roots. > > > One of these beds, which has too much sand, has been a spectacular > > > failure, since I overlooked the possibility of a perched water table at > > the > > > interface between a pile of sand and gravel, and clay soil. The sand > also > > > remains wet at a greater depth than anywhere else in the garden; bulbs > > > planted from the middle to lower end of the sand pile tend to rot. > > > Bob Nold > > > Denver, Colorado, USA > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon, 27 Mar 2017 22:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Using Google Translate to translate entire webpages (was: Re: Wood Chip Myth) Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2017 21:32:53 -0700 You don’t even have to copy the French text and paste into (if you’re in the U.S., or anywhere in the world). Just select French for the lefthand window and English for the righthand window. Then just copy the URL link address that Louis gave and paste that directly into the left hand (French) window. The same address should appear in the right hand (English) window but as an actual link (underlined). Click on it and it will take you to a translated version of the entire webpage. (It can’t translate any French that is part of an image or a logo because it can’t tell there is text in it.) --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > On Mar 27, 2017, at 7:17 PM, Louis Richard wrote: > > Hi Anita, > > You might use Google translate. > > https://translate.google.ca/ > > You just have to copy the French text and paste it in the appropriate box. > > Regards, > > Louis > > 2017-03-27 18:21 GMT-04:00 Anita Roselle : > >> Louis, penstemon and Jim, >> >> Interesting articlies, but where does one find something that translates >> them? Does it do it instantly or what, it looks like a really lovely public >> garden. I would like to be able to look at it translated. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From david@davidpilling.com Tue, 28 Mar 2017 04:17:16 -0700 Message-Id: <8a96520f-da8c-92a6-17f5-e8018c509115@davidpilling.com> From: David Pilling Subject: Bananas? (sound and plants) Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 12:08:00 +0100 Hi, "Talented gardeners at the University of Exeter have finally cultivated the fruit, normally only found in tropical countries, on its Devon campus after years of trying. The plant has been growing since 2012 and the university's grounds team are unsure why it has suddenly started producing fruit. But they believe one factor could be the dedication of Nursery Supervisor Luke Groombridge and his unusual tactic of regularly playing music to it." Full story: http://www.express.co.uk/life-style/food/784546/bananas-grown-uk-playing-music Is there any evidence of sound changing plants or seeds growth. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From arnold140@verizon.net Tue, 28 Mar 2017 08:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <31080814.429746.1490713548201.JavaMail.root@tvweb133095.mailsrvcs.net> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: renewals for PBS membership Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 10:05:48 -0500 (CDT) Dear Members: I will be sending out renewals reminder post cards to those who have not yet renewed their membership for 2017. If you receive one and feel you have renewed please contact me privately at arnold140@verizon.net There have been some glitches in the PayPal process that provides Jane McGary notice of PayPal renewals. I can do a search in the PayPal system to verify payments. Thanks and appreciate all the notes and comments I receive about the Pacific Bulb Society Arnold From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 28 Mar 2017 09:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <222625a0-ab84-b119-dcf3-562c476df2d8@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Using Google Translate to translate entire webpages Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 09:20:10 -0700 Using machine translation for text that includes specialized terminology can give misleading or even hilarious results. The best way to check a machine translation is to go from your Language A original to LB, then back from the result to LA. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA On 3/27/2017 9:32 PM, Lee Poulsen wrote: > You don’t even have to copy the French text and paste into (if you’re in the U.S., or anywhere in the world). Just select French for the lefthand window and English for the righthand window. > Then just copy the URL link address that Louis gave and paste that directly into the left hand (French) window. The same address should appear in the right hand (English) window but as an actual link (underlined). > Click on it and it will take you to a translated version of the entire webpage. (It can’t translate any French that is part of an image or a logo because it can’t tell there is text in it.) > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > > >> On Mar 27, 2017, at 7:17 PM, Louis Richard wrote: >> >> Hi Anita, >> >> You might use Google translate. >> >> https://translate.google.ca/ >> >> You just have to copy the French text and paste it in the appropriate box. >> >> Regards, >> >> Louis >> >> 2017-03-27 18:21 GMT-04:00 Anita Roselle : >> >>> Louis, penstemon and Jim, >>> >>> Interesting articlies, but where does one find something that translates >>> them? Does it do it instantly or what, it looks like a really lovely public >>> garden. I would like to be able to look at it translated. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tim@gingerwoodnursery.com Tue, 28 Mar 2017 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tim Chapman Subject: Bananas? (sound and plants) Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 12:15:27 -0500 Bananas are parthenocarpic, inside a greenhouse they will eventually flower and if they flower they will produce fruit. No mystery there. Tim Chapman > > > http://www.express.co.uk/life-style/food/784546/bananas-grown-uk-playing-music > > > Is there any evidence of sound changing plants or seeds growth. > > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue, 28 Mar 2017 14:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <80C0E15E-BD54-4AB5-9654-1AFF56980D51@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Bananas? (sound and plants) Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 15:17:07 -0500 Dear Daviud and all, I suspect there is something else going on. The crucial element is the cultivar's fruiting cycle length. Some newly tested cvs with a short fruiting cycle will easily grow and fruit in a 7 month growing season. Perhaps the Uni addded some new bananas now making the rounds that included a short fruitng cycle cv. I wrote about this in The American Horticulturist last year. Lots of people who could never grow bananas to fruit are having success now. In the state of GA they recommend locally grown GA bananas from a short fruiting cycle cv be sold in small farmer’s mkt and fruit stands with a premium price since they are local, fresh and chemical free. New world out there. Best Jim On Mar 28, 2017, at 6:08 AM, David Pilling wrote: Hi, "Talented gardeners at the University of Exeter have finally cultivated the fruit, normally only found in tropical countries, on its Devon campus after years of trying. The plant has been growing since 2012 and the university's grounds team are unsure why it has suddenly started producing fruit. But they believe one factor could be the dedication of Nursery Supervisor Luke Groombridge and his unusual tactic of regularly playing music to it." Full story: http://www.express.co.uk/life-style/food/784546/bananas-grown-uk-playing-music Is there any evidence of sound changing plants or seeds growth. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Tue, 28 Mar 2017 14:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <0268DE77-404F-427E-93D8-3A586F9D6AB6@t-online.de> From: Johannes-Ulrich Urban Subject: Arisaema Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 22:34:44 +0200 Hello Anita, hello All, My potted Arisaema are moved into my cellar in their pots in autumn. The compost dries out slowly during winter but protects the dormant tubers from dessication. In spring I repot, I only do so in autumn if there is a reason. This way there have been little losses. For sowing Arisaema seed right now is a perfect time. They do not need stratification and would have a full growing period before winter being summer growing. On the other hand Arisaema seed is long lived if properly stored. Another question: When did you plant your disappearing Arisaema, autumn or spring? Thank you all for your helpful reply concerning my large form of Frittillaria imperialis. I think it is most likely a sterile Triploid, I had not thought of that. I would say there is no embryo in the seed. I don't do anything to make it set seed, no hand pollination, the seed is just there. Every capsule gets very big, I always remove some to avoid stress for the plant. Bye for today Uli Von meinem iPad gesen From anitaroselle@gmail.com Tue, 28 Mar 2017 16:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Bananas? (sound and plants) Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 18:51:41 -0400 I recently saw one of those travel PBS programs. The moderator was touring a Central American Country, can't remember which one. He was visiting an institution that was working on developing new banana varieties because apparently all of the commercial ones are a single variety and if a blight or something hits there will be no bananas to export to the world. Perhaps some one gave some to the U.of Exeter, I know that seed sometimes has a way of mysteriously getting around from one institution to another. When I was a child we had a tree in front of our house that turned out to be a Dawn Redwood, the seed had been planted by my grandfather, long before they were available to the public. The seed had been given to my grandfather by a friend who we learned later worked for the institution where the very first collated seed in the US was germinated. Some how one of the seeds made it from there to my grandfather and our yard. On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 4:17 PM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Daviud and all, > > I suspect there is something else going on. > > The crucial element is the cultivar's fruiting cycle length. Some > newly tested cvs with a short fruiting cycle will easily grow and fruit in > a 7 month growing season. Perhaps the Uni addded some new bananas now > making the rounds that included a short fruitng cycle cv. I wrote about > this in The American Horticulturist last year. Lots of people who could > never grow bananas to fruit are having success now. > > In the state of GA they recommend locally grown GA bananas from a > short fruiting cycle cv be sold in small farmer’s mkt and fruit stands with > a premium price since they are local, fresh and chemical free. > > New world out there. Best Jim > > > > > > On Mar 28, 2017, at 6:08 AM, David Pilling wrote: > > Hi, > > > "Talented gardeners at the University of Exeter have finally cultivated > the fruit, normally only found in tropical countries, on its Devon campus > after years of trying. > > The plant has been growing since 2012 and the university's grounds team > are unsure why it has suddenly started producing fruit. > > But they believe one factor could be the dedication of Nursery Supervisor > Luke Groombridge and his unusual tactic of regularly playing music to it." > > Full story: > > http://www.express.co.uk/life-style/food/784546/bananas- > grown-uk-playing-music > > > Is there any evidence of sound changing plants or seeds growth. > > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > Dr. James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone 816-746-1949 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From anitaroselle@gmail.com Tue, 28 Mar 2017 16:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Anita Roselle Subject: Arisaema Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 18:58:49 -0400 Johannes, I planted them in the late summer, early fall, time enough for them to get settled before winter. I have the seed in an envelope, in a plastic bag, in the refrigerator. That is how I have stored all of my seed. Thanks for your interest in helping to solve my mystery. Anita R. On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 4:34 PM, Johannes-Ulrich Urban < johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de> wrote: > Hello Anita, hello All, > > My potted Arisaema are moved into my cellar in their pots in autumn. The > compost dries out slowly during winter but protects the dormant tubers from > dessication. > In spring I repot, I only do so in autumn if there is a reason. This way > there have been little losses. > For sowing Arisaema seed right now is a perfect time. They do not need > stratification and would have a full growing period before winter being > summer growing. On the other hand Arisaema seed is long lived if properly > stored. > Another question: When did you plant your disappearing Arisaema, autumn or > spring? > > Thank you all for your helpful reply concerning my large form of > Frittillaria imperialis. I think it is most likely a sterile Triploid, I > had not thought of that. I would say there is no embryo in the seed. I > don't do anything to make it set seed, no hand pollination, the seed is > just there. Every capsule gets very big, I always remove some to avoid > stress for the plant. > > Bye for today > > Uli > > > Von meinem iPad gesen > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From david@davidpilling.com Tue, 28 Mar 2017 17:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: What's going on here (Oxalis) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 00:29:27 +0100 Hi, Jim Waddick asked me to post the following question and pictures (on the wiki page). " http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a3 Here's a plant of Oxalis compress with large double flowers, but what is going on here.? The flowers are part of a good size clump of leaves, but then there is a near leafless stem going down almost a foot to end in a tiny corm barely under the soil. Unfortunately a greenhouse weed. Notice that the clump of foliage is NOT resting on the ground and has no hint of roots. Also note the picture of the tiny tuber. The tuber is attached to the main stem and there is a small bud just starting to develop where the tuber meets the stem. A lot of odd structures here. " Apparently the 3 billion users of FaceBook have failed to solve the mystery. Time to ask the experts. Short URL: https://goo.gl/kYocds -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From lamonready@hotmail.com Tue, 28 Mar 2017 21:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Lamon Ready Subject: Bananas? (sound and plants) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 03:18:18 +0000 UGA of Tifton (ABAC) campus has a banana man that spoke on the short season 'nanners' 2 Novembers ago. The Southeastern Citrus Group meeting was there, and The banana talk was most informative. He was able to share some of the babies, WITHOUT names. There were exceptions that he wasn't able to share. Lamon Dear Daviud and all, I suspect there is something else going on. The crucial element is the cultivar's fruiting cycle length. Some newly tested cvs with a short fruiting cycle will easily grow and fruit in a 7 month growing season. Perhaps the Uni addded some new bananas now making the rounds that included a short fruitng cycle cv. I wrote about this in The American Horticulturist last year. Lots of people who could never grow bananas to fruit are having success now. In the state of GA they recommend locally grown GA bananas from a short fruiting cycle cv be sold in small farmer’s mkt and fruit stands with a premium price since they are local, fresh and chemical free. New world out there. Best Jim On Mar 28, 2017, at 6:08 AM, David Pilling wrote: Hi, "Talented gardeners at the University of Exeter have finally cultivated the fruit, normally only found in tropical countries, on its Devon campus after years of trying. The plant has been growing since 2012 and the university's grounds team are unsure why it has suddenly started producing fruit. But they believe one factor could be the dedication of Nursery Supervisor Luke Groombridge and his unusual tactic of regularly playing music to it." Full story: http://www.express.co.uk/life-style/food/784546/bananas-grown-uk-playing-music [https://www.bing.com/th?id=OVF.mTwgDthCZPsImxDHvRg3Qw&pid=Api] Bananas grown in UK by playing MUSIC to them, scientists claim www.express.co.uk Talented gardeners at the University of Exeter have finally cultivated the fruit, normally only found in tropical countries, on its Devon campus after years of trying. Is there any evidence of sound changing plants or seeds growth. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com David Pilling :: home www.davidpilling.com Welcome to davidpilling.net. David Pilling offers a range of quality software. You can find on this web site full information on the wide range of software available ... _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Pacific Bulb Society | List pacificbulbsociety.org The PBS List is an email discussion of bulbs, sponsored by the Pacific Bulb Society, for people around the world. Although bulbs (defined more broadly to include all ... http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Welcome to the Pacific Bulb Society Wiki pacificbulbsociety.org This guide was created by the members of the Pacific Bulb Society e-mail discussion list, a group of people from around the world who are interested in growing and ... Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Pacific Bulb Society | List pacificbulbsociety.org The PBS List is an email discussion of bulbs, sponsored by the Pacific Bulb Society, for people around the world. Although bulbs (defined more broadly to include all ... http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Welcome to the Pacific Bulb Society Wiki pacificbulbsociety.org This guide was created by the members of the Pacific Bulb Society e-mail discussion list, a group of people from around the world who are interested in growing and ... From kimcmich@hotmail.com Tue, 28 Mar 2017 21:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: What's going on here (Oxalis) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 04:14:42 +0000 Greetings, I assume this is Oxalis pes-caprae (which has been corrupted to "compress"?) At any rate, this oxalis produces resting tubers that look like acorns (enough that jays and other critters spread them in the landscape). The plant you uprooted was a sprout of the corm you pulled out - the corm being the product of growth in a prior season. The corm sprouts a root-like shoot that eventually grows to the surface *and* puts down roots. New cormlets form along the whole root/stem and are usually stripped-off by uprooting - a feature which makes this oxalis invasive and difficult to eradicate. Since the corms are vegetative offsets the double bloom would presumably be a trait it inherited. The invasive O. pes caprae in California does not set seed - it is spread via the cormlets. I have sifted hundreds from soils all over the Bay Area where it is a terrible invasive weed... though it is also quite gorgeous this time of year, too. -| on behalf of David Pilling Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:29 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] What's going on here (Oxalis) Hi, Jim Waddick asked me to post the following question and pictures (on the wiki page). " http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a3 Pacific Bulb Society | Things we are talking about on the ... www.pacificbulbsociety.org 18th February 2017 I received this unlabeled plant/these plants recently at a garden exchange. It looks like Albuca shawii, and it It produced a lot of new leaves ... Here's a plant of Oxalis compress with large double flowers, but what is going on here.? The flowers are part of a good size clump of leaves, but then there is a near leafless stem going down almost a foot to end in a tiny corm barely under the soil. Unfortunately a greenhouse weed. Notice that the clump of foliage is NOT resting on the ground and has no hint of roots. Also note the picture of the tiny tuber. The tuber is attached to the main stem and there is a small bud just starting to develop where the tuber meets the stem. A lot of odd structures here. " Apparently the 3 billion users of FaceBook have failed to solve the mystery. Time to ask the experts. Short URL: https://goo.gl/kYocds -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com David Pilling :: home www.davidpilling.com Welcome to davidpilling.net. David Pilling offers a range of quality software. You can find on this web site full information on the wide range of software available ... _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Pacific Bulb Society | List pacificbulbsociety.org The PBS List is an email discussion of bulbs, sponsored by the Pacific Bulb Society, for people around the world. Although bulbs (defined more broadly to include all ... http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Welcome to the Pacific Bulb Society Wiki pacificbulbsociety.org This guide was created by the members of the Pacific Bulb Society e-mail discussion list, a group of people from around the world who are interested in growing and ... From bgjulian@iinet.net.au Tue, 28 Mar 2017 22:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: samuel Subject: What's going on here (Oxalis) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 14:19:05 +1000 On 29/03/2017 9:29 AM, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > Jim Waddick asked me to post the following question and pictures (on > the wiki page). > > " > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a3 > > Here's a plant of Oxalis compress with large double flowers, but what > is going on here.? The flowers are part of a good size clump of > leaves, but then there is a near leafless stem going down almost a > foot to end in a tiny corm barely under the soil. Unfortunately a > greenhouse weed. > > Notice that the clump of foliage is NOT resting on the ground and has > no hint of roots. Also note the picture of the tiny tuber. The tuber > is attached to the main stem and there is a small bud just starting to > develop where the tuber meets the stem. A lot of odd structures here. > " > > Apparently the 3 billion users of FaceBook have failed to solve the > mystery. Time to ask the experts. > > Short URL: > > https://goo.gl/kYocds > > > > Hi , could this actually be a double flowered form of O.pes-caprae , Oxalis compressa has leaf stems that are distinctly flattened on two sides. I am growing the single forms of O.pes-caprae and O.compressa as well as the double form of O.pes-caprae here in Queensland. From ceridwen@internode.on.net Wed, 29 Mar 2017 01:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <0B39230F-0608-4227-93D0-88391DF19364@internode.on.net> From: Ceridwen Lloyd Subject: What's going on here (Oxalis) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 17:26:53 +1030 Here they're known as "soursobs" and you can't kill them with an axe. Or glyphosate. Sent from my iPhone > On 29 Mar 2017, at 2:44 pm, Kipp McMichael wrote: > > Greetings, > > > I assume this is Oxalis pes-caprae (which has been corrupted to "compress"?) > > > At any rate, this oxalis produces resting tubers that look like acorns (enough that jays and other critters spread them in the landscape). The plant you uprooted was a sprout of the corm you pulled out - the corm being the product of growth in a prior season. The corm sprouts a root-like shoot that eventually grows to the surface *and* puts down roots. New cormlets form along the whole root/stem and are usually stripped-off by uprooting - a feature which makes this oxalis invasive and difficult to eradicate. > > > Since the corms are vegetative offsets the double bloom would presumably be a trait it inherited. The invasive O. pes caprae in California does not set seed - it is spread via the cormlets. I have sifted hundreds from soils all over the Bay Area where it is a terrible invasive weed... though it is also quite gorgeous this time of year, too. > > > -| > > > > ________________________________ > From: pbs on behalf of David Pilling > Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:29 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] What's going on here (Oxalis) > > Hi, > > Jim Waddick asked me to post the following question and pictures (on the > wiki page). > > " > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a3 > Pacific Bulb Society | Things we are talking about on the ... > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > 18th February 2017 I received this unlabeled plant/these plants recently at a garden exchange. It looks like Albuca shawii, and it It produced a lot of new leaves ... > > > > > Here's a plant of Oxalis compress with large double flowers, but what is > going on here.? The flowers are part of a good size clump of leaves, but > then there is a near leafless stem going down almost a foot to end in a From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 29 Mar 2017 01:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: What's going on here (Oxalis) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 09:04:12 +0100 looks like a 'keiki' on a 'stolon', all ordinary behaviour for many Oxalis.... Peter (UK) http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a3 > > Here's a plant of Oxalis compress with large double flowers, but what is > going on here.? The flowers are part of a good size clump of leaves, but > then there is a near leafless stem going down almost a foot to end in a > tiny corm barely under the soil. > From teck11@embarqmail.com Wed, 29 Mar 2017 03:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <000001d2a872$d3abb770$7b032650$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: What's going on here (Oxalis) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 05:57:06 -0400 How cold hardy are they? Tim Eck When a philosopher says something that is true, then it is trivial. When he says something that is not trivial, then it is false. Gauss > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ceridwen Lloyd > Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 2:57 AM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] What's going on here (Oxalis) > > Here they're known as "soursobs" and you can't kill them with an axe. Or > glyphosate. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On 29 Mar 2017, at 2:44 pm, Kipp McMichael > wrote: > > > > Greetings, > > > > > > I assume this is Oxalis pes-caprae (which has been corrupted to > > "compress"?) > > > > > > At any rate, this oxalis produces resting tubers that look like acorns (enough > that jays and other critters spread them in the landscape). The plant you > uprooted was a sprout of the corm you pulled out - the corm being the > product of growth in a prior season. The corm sprouts a root-like shoot that > eventually grows to the surface *and* puts down roots. New cormlets form > along the whole root/stem and are usually stripped-off by uprooting - a > feature which makes this oxalis invasive and difficult to eradicate. > > > > > > Since the corms are vegetative offsets the double bloom would presumably > be a trait it inherited. The invasive O. pes caprae in California does not set > seed - it is spread via the cormlets. I have sifted hundreds from soils all over > the Bay Area where it is a terrible invasive weed... though it is also quite > gorgeous this time of year, too. > > > > > > -| > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > From: pbs on behalf of David Pilling > > > > Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:29 PM > > To: Pacific Bulb Society > > Subject: [pbs] What's going on here (Oxalis) > > > > Hi, > > > > Jim Waddick asked me to post the following question and pictures (on > > the wiki page). > > > > " > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a3 > > Pacific Bulb Society | Things we are talking about on the > > ... > > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > 18th February 2017 I received this unlabeled plant/these plants recently at a > garden exchange. It looks like Albuca shawii, and it It produced a lot of new > leaves ... > > > > > > > > > > Here's a plant of Oxalis compress with large double flowers, but what > > is going on here.? The flowers are part of a good size clump of > > leaves, but then there is a near leafless stem going down almost a > > foot to end in a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bgjulian@iinet.net.au Wed, 29 Mar 2017 03:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <94d43460-65b3-059a-bbeb-59bf81d632d0@iinet.net.au> From: samuel Subject: What's going on here (Oxalis) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 20:16:29 +1000 On 29/03/2017 7:57 PM, Tim Eck wrote: > How cold hardy are they? > > Tim Eck > When a philosopher says something that is true, then it is trivial. When he > says something that is not trivial, then it is false. > Gauss > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ceridwen > Lloyd >> Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 2:57 AM >> To: Pacific Bulb Society >> Subject: Re: [pbs] What's going on here (Oxalis) >> >> Here they're known as "soursobs" and you can't kill them with an axe. Or >> glyphosate. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On 29 Mar 2017, at 2:44 pm, Kipp McMichael >> wrote: >>> Greetings, >>> >>> >>> I assume this is Oxalis pes-caprae (which has been corrupted to >>> "compress"?) >>> >>> >>> At any rate, this oxalis produces resting tubers that look like acorns > (enough >> that jays and other critters spread them in the landscape). The plant you >> uprooted was a sprout of the corm you pulled out - the corm being the >> product of growth in a prior season. The corm sprouts a root-like shoot > that >> eventually grows to the surface *and* puts down roots. New cormlets form >> along the whole root/stem and are usually stripped-off by uprooting - a >> feature which makes this oxalis invasive and difficult to eradicate. >>> >>> Since the corms are vegetative offsets the double bloom would > presumably >> be a trait it inherited. The invasive O. pes caprae in California does not > set >> seed - it is spread via the cormlets. I have sifted hundreds from soils > all over >> the Bay Area where it is a terrible invasive weed... though it is also > quite >> gorgeous this time of year, too. >>> >>> -|>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ________________________________ >>> From: pbs on behalf of David Pilling >>> >>> Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:29 PM >>> To: Pacific Bulb Society >>> Subject: [pbs] What's going on here (Oxalis) >>> >>> Hi, >>> >>> Jim Waddick asked me to post the following question and pictures (on >>> the wiki page). >>> >>> " >>> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a3 >>> Pacific Bulb Society | Things we are talking about on the >>> ... >>> www.pacificbulbsociety.org >>> 18th February 2017 I received this unlabeled plant/these plants recently > at a >> garden exchange. It looks like Albuca shawii, and it It produced a lot of > new >> leaves ... >>> >>> >>> >>> Here's a plant of Oxalis compress with large double flowers, but what >>> is going on here.? The flowers are part of a good size clump of >>> leaves, but then there is a near leafless stem going down almost a >>> foot to end in a >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > Hi ,we grew Oxalis pes-caprae double form in Deloraine,Tasmania and temps got down to minus 4C quite often , rarely minus 6C From ben.zonneveld@naturalis.nl Wed, 29 Mar 2017 05:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ben Zonneveld Subject: Frittilaria imperialis Maxima Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 13:37:37 +0200 Thre is a large red form of F imperialis around named Maxima that is tetraploid Ben -- BJM Zonneveld Naturalis, Herbarium section Postbox 9517 Vondellaan 55, 2300RA Leiden The Netherlands Email: ben.zonneveld@naturalis.nl , telf 071-7517228 From msittner@mcn.org Wed, 29 Mar 2017 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <063e43be-df8f-8f47-df39-eecd8fcd7262@mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: What's going on here (Oxalis) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 07:18:31 -0700 A number of years ago Alberto Castillo donated to the BX what he called a double flowered form of Oxalis compressa. I expect that is where Jim got it. You can see photos here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SouthAfricanOxalisTwo#compressa The leaves look a lot like Oxalis pes-caprae and the bulbs of this double form are a little different from the single form as my photos show. I found it was a lot less likely to flower than O. pes-caprae and worried about it so got rid of it, but there was some that got loose in one of the pots in my raised bed that I haven't unpotted. No flowers this year however, but the single form has been a blaze of bright yellow flowers for months. When the double form flowers, it flowers much earlier than Oxalis pes-caprae. There are supposed to be double forms of O. pes-caprae. Gastil and Nhu took some photos for the wiki that show the bulbs and the contractile roots and show how it can rapidly increase. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Oxalis_pes-caprae Cape Plants describes O. compressa as like O. pes-caprae, but petioles flattened and peduncles 3-6 flowered versus 3 to 20 in O. pes-caprae. And Christiaan van Schalkwyk added this distinction to the wiki: Oxalis compressa can be identified by the flattened or compressed leaf stalks. Oxalis pes-caprae has a brown bulb, without conspicuous longitudinal grooves. It may or may not have a stem. The bulbs I photographed of the double form of O. compressa had the grooves. Fremontia, the journal of the California Native Plant Society has a double issue I recently received devoted to California Geophytes. I've really been enjoying reading all the articles. If I find time I may write about it in another post. I can't remember which article it was in, but one of them minimized the problem of O. pes-caprae except in disturbed places. But it is in state parks on the bluffs and spreading to other places in Northern California. It appears in a new places I guess as Kipp says because the birds spread the bulbs. The leaves when young look a lot like clover and so when it first appears without flowers it isn't noticeable. Then a year or two later when you see the flowers you find out you are in trouble. It is flowering in abundance at the moment in this wet year. Mary Sue On 3/28/2017 9:14 PM, Kipp McMichael wrote: > I assume this is Oxalis pes-caprae (which has been corrupted to "compress"?) From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 29 Mar 2017 09:17:09 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: What's going on here (Oxalis) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 10:26:59 -0500 Dear Friends, I truly appreciate all the responses. Just a bit more back ground info: This is a self sown plant, but I do recall getting an O. compressa ( lost the terminal ‘a’ along the way somewhere), but after the responses, I can find no hint of compressed ‘anything’ leading me to believe it is O. pes-caprae which also gives more sense to its weedy proclivities. This is NOT a small plant. Th entire length of plant from bulb to tip of flower scapes is around 32 inches- over 2 and 1/2 feet long. Individual flowers are over 1 in across. Although I seem to have pulled plenty of these out of the gravel floor of my greenhouse, I just donj’t recall this odd stolon. I gather that it is far from uncommon and others have seen this. I do not grow many Oxalis purposely and pull almost all seedlings eventually. Perhaps this has shared the odd structures with other Oxalis novices like me. Thanks for the input and expertise. Jim W. On Mar 29, 2017, at 3:04 AM, Peter Taggart wrote: looks like a 'keiki' on a 'stolon', all ordinary behaviour for many Oxalis.... Peter (UK) http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a3 > > Here's a plant of Oxalis compress with large double flowers, but what is > going on here.? The flowers are part of a good size clump of leaves, but > then there is a near leafless stem going down almost a foot to end in a > tiny corm barely under the soil. > Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Chad.Schroter@sandisk.com Wed, 29 Mar 2017 09:17:09 -0700 Message-Id: From: Chad Schroter Subject: What's going on here (Oxalis) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 15:45:01 +0000 I have had the same experience as Mary Sue with some O. compressa which came from BX . It is shy to flower and very similar to O. pes caprae, but for me it is shorter and more likely to have maroon spots on the leaves. I had kept it in pots, and it is a prolific increaser. I have some in the ground as well ( the oxalis escape ship sailed a long time ago) and there it spreads slower that O. pes caprae and is possible to distinguish the two. During the oxalis wars I have found that it can send a shoot a long ways in search of sunlight when trapped under weed cloth, cardboard etc. So 2 feet is not surprising. The stem is really the root system for these plants, the new bulblets form along it. Happy gardening, Chad Schroter -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 8:27 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] What's going on here (Oxalis) Dear Friends, I truly appreciate all the responses. Just a bit more back ground info: This is a self sown plant, but I do recall getting an O. compressa ( lost the terminal ‘a’ along the way somewhere), but after the responses, I can find no hint of compressed ‘anything’ leading me to believe it is O. pes-caprae which also gives more sense to its weedy proclivities. This is NOT a small plant. Th entire length of plant from bulb to tip of flower scapes is around 32 inches- over 2 and 1/2 feet long. Individual flowers are over 1 in across. Although I seem to have pulled plenty of these out of the gravel floor of my greenhouse, I just donj’t recall this odd stolon. I gather that it is far from uncommon and others have seen this. I do not grow many Oxalis purposely and pull almost all seedlings eventually. Perhaps this has shared the odd structures with other Oxalis novices like me. Thanks for the input and expertise. Jim W. On Mar 29, 2017, at 3:04 AM, Peter Taggart wrote: looks like a 'keiki' on a 'stolon', all ordinary behaviour for many Oxalis.... Peter (UK) http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TWTB#a3 > > Here's a plant of Oxalis compress with large double flowers, but what > is going on here.? The flowers are part of a good size clump of > leaves, but then there is a near leafless stem going down almost a > foot to end in a tiny corm barely under the soil. > Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 Western Digital Corporation (and its subsidiaries) E-mail Confidentiality Notice & Disclaimer: This e-mail and any files transmitted with it may contain confidential or legally privileged information of WDC and/or its affiliates, and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to which they are addressed. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on it, is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the e-mail in its entirety from your system. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 29 Mar 2017 09:17:09 -0700 Message-Id: <3C181D39-64A8-4F99-A31C-50E4C74F43ED@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Bananas? (sound and plants) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 10:48:41 -0500 Dear Friends, Bananas (mostly the genus Musa ) are the world’s largest herbaceous plants and they are ‘bulbous” so fit this group readily. Incidentally the recently described M. ingens tops the record at over 50 ft in height. I wrote an article in the July/August issue of ‘The American Gardener” a pub of the Amer. Hort. Soc. on ornamental bananas. I included some up to date info on fruiting bananas. There are now a number of varieties (cultivars) of fruitng bananas that can bear fruit in as little as 7 month growing season. This combines a short flowering season and a short fruiting season. Cultivars with a short fruiting seasson can grow from a small propagule (pup) to bloom within 5 months or so. A short fruting cycle is around 2 months from the appearance of flowers to ripe fruit. This means a few select cvs can be planted in the ground in April (or emerge from winter dormancy) and flower in July/Aug. Fruit ripens by the end of Oct. or before frost. This means you can grow fruitng bananas easily in the ground in Zone 8 and with some protection in Zone 7 and in a large container in colder zones. Partly due to tissue culture and wider trials of more cvs, a few specific cvs have been determined to fit this new model. The most often seen is ‘Viente Cohol’ which has been proven in S. GA. Lamon probably heard from Dr. Esendugue Greg Fonsah. ‘Greg’ has published numerous articles giving details of his methods. Do Google his work on line. Other cvs with less testing include ‘Seminole’ and ‘Hua Moa’, but there may be more. Detailed info is available on line especially from thie publication: Catalog of Banana (Musa spp.) Accessions Maintained at the USDA–ARS Tropical Agriculture Research Station, vol. 1, This is just a brief review of these new trials. I am trying new cvs here in Kansas City almost every year. Great landscape plants. Best Jim W. On Mar 28, 2017, at 10:18 PM, Lamon Ready wrote: UGA of Tifton (ABAC) campus has a banana man that spoke on the short season 'nanners' 2 Novembers ago. The Southeastern Citrus Group meeting was there, and The banana talk was most informative. He was able to share some of the babies, WITHOUT names. There were exceptions that he wasn't able to share. Lamon Dear Daviud and all, I suspect there is something else going on. The crucial element is the cultivar's fruiting cycle length. Some newly tested cvs with a short fruiting cycle will easily grow and fruit in a 7 month growing season. Perhaps the Uni addded some new bananas now making the rounds that included a short fruitng cycle cv. I wrote about this in The American Horticulturist last year. Lots of people who could never grow bananas to fruit are having success now. In the state of GA they recommend locally grown GA bananas from a short fruiting cycle cv be sold in small farmer’s mkt and fruit stands with a premium price since they are local, fresh and chemical free. New world out there. Best Jim On Mar 28, 2017, at 6:08 AM, David Pilling wrote: Hi, "Talented gardeners at the University of Exeter have finally cultivated the fruit, normally only found in tropical countries, on its Devon campus after years of trying. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com David Pilling :: home www.davidpilling.com Welcome to davidpilling.net. David Pilling offers a range of quality software. You can find on this web site full information on the wide range of software available ... Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From msittner@mcn.org Wed, 29 Mar 2017 09:17:09 -0700 Message-Id: <9c06c17c-0694-7605-1428-44933c517e0f@mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: What's going on here (Oxalis) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 09:04:10 -0700 Here's Jim's report after he got Oxalis compressa from the BX as I suspected along with the information about it from Alberto. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/2009-March/iipbhb4gmmbv9jfnoafivm4lt5.html On 3/29/2017 8:26 AM, James Waddick wrote: > This is a self sown plant, but I do recall getting an O. compressa ( lost the terminal ‘a’ along the way somewhere), but after the responses, I can find no hint of compressed ‘anything’ leading me to believe it is O. pes-caprae which also gives more sense to its weedy proclivities. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 29 Mar 2017 13:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Fritillaria imperialis Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 21:09:51 +0100 I have grown seeds from single bulbs of F. raddeana, F ariana, and F crassifolia, probably others too. Young bulbs will rarely self, and self pollination is not reliable, but it can certainly happen in Fritillaria. Peter (UK) On 28 March 2017 at 00:25, Jane McGary wrote: In addition, Fritillaria seem to be self-sterile, so if Uli is self-pollinating his special plant, fertile seeds will not form. From dkramb@badbear.com Thu, 30 Mar 2017 07:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Klister hippeastrums Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2017 10:01:37 -0400 Is anyone growing 'Klister' hippeastrums? I guess these aren't anything new, but they're new to me. Apparently it's the dutch word for cluster, referring to the way the bulbs form multiple offsets quickly, which can bloom when small (the size of a quarter). Some bulb pics are here: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1720041/h-lovely-garden They almost look like weeds! I searched my email before posting this message and I got no results for the word 'Klister'. So I *think* the topic hasn't been discussed here yet. Dennis in Cincinnati From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Thu, 30 Mar 2017 23:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Arnold Chaney via pbs Subject: Klister hippeastrums Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2017 09:36:36 -0700 I may be wrong, but when I read the post that you are talking about, I think they use the word "Klister " to refer to the cluster of bulbs around the Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) they are showing; Not that there is a family of Amaryllis called "Klister Amaryllis" Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 30, 2017, at 7:01 AM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > > Is anyone growing 'Klister' hippeastrums? I guess these aren't anything > new, but they're new to me. Apparently it's the dutch word for cluster, > referring to the way the bulbs form multiple offsets quickly, which can > bloom when small (the size of a quarter). > > Some bulb pics are here: > http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1720041/h-lovely-garden > > They almost look like weeds! > > I searched my email before posting this message and I got no results for > the word 'Klister'. So I *think* the topic hasn't been discussed here yet. > > Dennis in Cincinnati > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From lmf@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Thu, 30 Mar 2017 11:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Linda Foulis Subject: Klister hippeastrums Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2017 11:53:08 -0600 If you figure out where to get them, please let me know. They are outstanding! Linda M Foulis Beautiful Blooms www.beautifulblooms.ab.ca > On Mar 30, 2017, at 8:01 AM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > > Is anyone growing 'Klister' hippeastrums? From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu, 30 Mar 2017 12:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <1274A38A-7FF3-4A74-9835-1E68FC2F71B7@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Klister hippeastrums Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2017 13:31:07 -0500 Dear Dennis, I Googled Kister Amaryllis and Klister Hippeastrum and got a number of interesting hits. Apparently Brent and Becky have sold Hippeastrum x 'Supreme Garden' And they look great. Google this for more. And ‘Edensbloom offers at least one http://www.edensblooms.com/product/AO50 I’ll bet there are more, but thius is just NOT the season. I gogled ‘Cluster Hippeastrum” - don’t bother. When you find a good source in the fall, let me know. Tempting-very tempting. Jim W. On Mar 30, 2017, at 9:01 AM, Dennis Kramb wrote: Is anyone growing 'Klister' hippeastrums? I guess these aren't anything new, but they're new to me. Apparently it's the dutch word for cluster, referring to the way the bulbs form multiple offsets quickly, which can bloom when small (the size of a quarter). Dennis in Cincinnati Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Thu, 30 Mar 2017 12:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <2010190822.11112685.1490898683161@mail.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Klister hippeastrums Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2017 18:31:23 +0000 (UTC) I posted on these in May 2014. They were OK for that year but fell apart later. Still have some of the bulbs I think but no tight clump now. Could be me of course. Brian UK If you figure out where to get them, please let me know.  They are outstanding! Linda M Foulis Beautiful Blooms www.beautifulblooms.ab.ca > On Mar 30, 2017, at 8:01 AM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > > Is anyone growing 'Klister' hippeastrums?  _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Thu, 30 Mar 2017 14:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <79A0D0DF-8C8D-4F73-BBAD-3DFEA69F0078@t-online.de> From: Johannes-Ulrich Urban Subject: Arisaema and Fritillaria Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2017 22:52:43 +0200 Hello Anita and Ben For the disappearing Arisaema I still don't understand if you planted dormant tubers or actively growing plants of A. sikokianum in late summer. As I have never been able to grow this plant myself I don't know how long it's growing cycle is. Dormant Arisaema tubers lose their roots completely unlike many other geophytes so will not settle in a new environment. Somehow your growing conditions of the pot grown plants must differ from open garden culture, is it drainage? Thank you Ben for your remarks on the tetraploid Fritillaria. But tetras do at least bear some fertile seed in general or am I wrong? Is the Dutch commercial stock of this bulb only propagated vegetatively? It is so strange that all my other F. Imperialis never set seed and this one does but without any germination. Thank you and bye for today Uli Von meinem iPad gesendet From gentian21@volo.net Thu, 30 Mar 2017 16:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: gentian21 Subject: Cyclamen Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2017 17:27:13 -0500 Basically i can only grow cyclamen in mounds of pure decomposed leaf mold. Some sandiness is ok but no native soil.  That will tolerate excess moisture from the rediculous rainy spells we can have while not turning hard like peat moss or peat when drying out.  Maybe it is anaerobic bacteria or insects.  I think they need a more cosistant moisure that varies only with the seasons.  Growing seeds or any corms in pots is very easy.     Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: gentian21 Date: 3/20/17 6:53 PM (GMT-06:00) To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Cyclamen What i would like to know is how to get cyclamen to self sow at all. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 31 Mar 2017 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: APHIS Releases New Weed Risk Assessments Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2017 09:41:24 -0500 Friends, Some of you may be interested in pursuing weed and invasive plant news further. Here’s some USDA info and a way to connect for regular updates. Jim Having trouble viewing this email? View it as a Web page . APHIS Posts New Weed Risk Assessments APHIS’ Plant Protection and Quarantine (PPQ) has posted Weed Risk Assessments (WRA) for the following seven weed species: Aegilops geniculata (ovate goatgrass) Aegilops neglecta (three-awn goatgrass) Aegilops triuncialis (barb goatgrass) Echium plantagineum (Paterson’s curse) Hirschfeldia incana (shortpod mustard) Myagrum perfoliatum (bird’s-eye cress) Torilis leptophylla (bristlefruit hedgeparsley) The purpose of a WRA is to evaluate the likelihood that a weed species will escape, naturalize, and spread in the United States, and harm U.S. natural and agricultural resources. PPQ prepares a WRA when: A species shows some threat potential in the United States or abroad, Someone requests to import a species that is either new to the United States, or if present, not widely distributed and poses a potential threat; or A stakeholder submits a request to APHIS to add a species to the Federal Noxious Weed List . Stakeholders can use WRAs to support their own management or policy decisions as needed. To view or print these or other assessments, visit APHIS’ Noxious Weeds Program Risk Assessments Web page. We welcome your questions or comments about the WRAs via email at weeds@aphis.usda.gov . Questions about APHIS programs and services? Contact Us STAY CONNECTED:   SUBSCRIBER SERVICES: Manage Preferences | Unsubscribe | Help This email was sent to jwaddick@kc.rr.com using GovDelivery, on behalf of: USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service · 4700 River Rd · Riverdale, MD 20737 Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From kathleen.sayce@gmail.com Fri, 31 Mar 2017 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <6E7A3D49-551D-441F-AA67-BF3B1A16242C@gmail.com> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Cyclamen Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2017 09:29:00 -0700 From gentian21: Basically i can only grow cyclamen in mounds of pure decomposed leaf mold. Some sandiness is ok but no native soil. ?That will tolerate excess moisture from the rediculous rainy spells we can have while not turning hard like peat moss or peat when drying out. ?Maybe it is anaerobic bacteria or insects. ?I think they need a more cosistant moisure that varies only with the seasons. ?Growing seeds or any corms in pots is very easy. ? ? . . . Could you tell us more about your climate and soil? I garden in sand (fine beach sand, acidic, and well drained) and have cyclamen all over my yard (yay! ants). Never water the plants. I also do not amend the soil. They are wet all winter due to rain, growing in soil that drains quickly, and dry all summer. Kathleen From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Fri, 31 Mar 2017 14:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <296957b0-89f2-6430-2141-59301dfcb2bb@btinternet.com> From: youngs Subject: IRG March 2017 notes Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2017 21:48:38 +0100 IRG 87 - March 2017 Spain retains its attraction to draw visitors keen to enjoy a break and see wildflowers at the same time. Răzvan Chişu, a Romanian who now lives and works in Cheshire recalls an early spring trip to Alpujarras. Răzvan recently took over as Editor for the Saxifraga Society and is been much involved in Plant Heritage projects and Hardy Plant Society displays. The charming garden of Hana Zíková in Bohemia is introduced by Zdenek Zvolanek with photos by Zdena Kosourová. We do hear more from the male of the species but there are also talented female Czech gardeners; ! Ian Christie, himself a former SRGC president, describes a new Galanthus cultivar, named for a sadly missed SRGC former President, Harley Milne who died last year. Download the IRG here : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2017Mar301490900939IRG87March2017.pdf Full Index : http://files.srgc.net/journals/IRG-Index.pdf _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 31 Mar 2017 19:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <8fd9cdd8-6652-ebd1-a7cc-2467ef16a25e@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Plant interest in Rome? Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2017 18:25:58 -0700 I'm about to leave for 3 weeks in Rome (Roma). Mostly I will be looking at art and antiquities, but if there is an interesting botanic garden I would like to know of it. Italian garden style doesn't interest me much because of the limited plant material used. Does anyone have recommendations? Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From carlobal@gmail.com Fri, 31 Mar 2017 20:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Carlo A. Balistrieri" Subject: Plant interest in Rome? Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2017 22:41:29 -0400 See if you can get into the Vatican garden! Carlo A. Balistrieri President/CCO The Botanical Gardening Group 262.490.6163 carlobal@gmail.com Helping you cure plant blindness one garden at a time > On Mar 31, 2017, at 9:25 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > > I'm about to leave for 3 weeks in Rome (Roma). Mostly I will be looking at art and antiquities, but if there is an interesting botanic garden I would like to know of it. Italian garden style doesn't interest me much because of the limited plant material used. Does anyone have recommendations? > > Jane McGary > > Portland, Oregon, USA > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From arnold140@verizon.net Fri, 31 Mar 2017 20:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <18417586.542402.1491016407522.JavaMail.root@tvweb133033.mailsrvcs.net> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Plant interest in Rome? Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2017 22:13:27 -0500 (CDT) Jane: There's the antique section of Rome on Via Dei Coronari. Very close to the Piazza Navona. If you can try Gelateria del Teatro on that street. Try the Orto Botanico ( Botanical Garden) at palazzo corsini, Largo Cristina di Svezia, 24. Arnold New Jersey On 03/31/17, Jane McGary wrote: I'm about to leave for 3 weeks in Rome (Roma). Mostly I will be looking at art and antiquities, but if there is an interesting botanic garden I would like to know of it. Italian garden style doesn't interest me much because of the limited plant material used. Does anyone have recommendations? Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA