I've successfully overwintered one of the Hippeastrum large flowered reddish orange cultivars and the cultivar 'Picotee' in USDA zone 5. Grayslake Illinois is about half way between Chicago, Illinois and Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Excess bulbs planted deep against the south wall of my home (basement doesn't freeze). This is the same location that Jim Shield's Crinum hybrids have established themselves and the only location that hybrid tea roses have proven to be reliably hardy. Haven't seen the Scilla peruviana (yes, I know the name has changed). Canna's are also hardy in this location. Like the realtor said, location, location, location ... in my case microclimate. Boyce Tankersley Director of Living Plant Documentation Chicago Botanic Garden USDA zone 5 On Mon, Feb 22, 2016 at 7:43 PM, Travis O <enoster@hotmail.com> wrote: > So, to aid in moving away from the topic of jumping out of windows, I have > a genuine bulb question. > > I bought an "amaryllis" last fall, it flowered, and there is now one > robust 30" leaf remaining. When I potted it, I first filled the pot 1/2 > full with my regular potting mixture (part compost, grit, sand, mystery > ingredients...), then placed the bulb w/roots, then filled the remainder > with the coco coir that came with the bulb (discarding half, displaced by > my potting mix). So, what to do next? > > I've heard that Hippaestrum can be marginally hardy if planted deep in a > South facing bed. Anyone ever try pushing the limits of Hippaestrum > hardiness? Any species naturally hardy? > > Thanks! > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > http://www.amateuranthecologist.com/ > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ >