From hanshuizing@xs4all.nl Thu, 04 Feb 2016 05:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <56B34901.8080603@xs4all.nl> From: Hans Huizing Subject: Cyrtanthus hybrids Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 13:50:09 +0100 Does someone know the parents of Cyrtanthus 'Saturn', Cyrtanthus 'Venus' and Cyrtanthus 'Red Prince'? Regards, Hans Huizing Holland From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 04 Feb 2016 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <56B39B38.1040804@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Identifying South African gladiolus Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 10:40:56 -0800 The following inquiry was received via our website. If you would like to try to help Andrew identify these Gladiolus species (which I assume he found in nature, since he is in South Africa), please write to him directly to see his photos. Thanks, Jane McGary Membership, PBS -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: PBS website contact:Gladiolus identify Date: 04 Feb 2016 02:31:08 -0500, Thu, 4 Feb 2016 02:31:08 -0500 (EST) From: Apache Reply-To: Andrew To: janemcgary@earthlink.net This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. Hi Jane, I would like to confirm the identity of two Gladiolus species I have found. If you could direct me to the relevent expert that will be greatly appreciated. Andrew From enoster@hotmail.com Thu, 04 Feb 2016 16:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 16:09:20 -0800 Hi, I've been reading 'Teaming with Microbes' by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis (Timber Press 2010) and it has got my imagination going. Most gardeners are familiar with or have at least heard of the ability of leguminous plants to "fix" nitrogen from the atmosphere into a form plants can use, a result of a fungal symbiosis. The book describes in detail the complex microscopic ecosystems that inhabit healthy soil and interact, in many cases symbiotically and beneficially, with (according to the book) 90% of all plants on Earth. Now it seems that the common practice amongst this group, and many other specialized plant groups, is to use completely sterilized soil (or "medium"). Could there be a benefit to inoculating our bulb seed, or perhaps the dormant bulbs themselves, as one may do with food crops? To me, it seems entirely reasonable to assume that many wild bulb populations have some sort of positive relationship to the microfauna in the soil they share. Keeping with this line of reasoning, I wonder if some of the "difficult" bulbous species out there, unknown in cultivation, may only need the correct fungal association (or bacterial, or whatever) to survive in cultivation? Or could using beneficial bacteria/fungi to inoculate our current bulbs improve their vigor, or other unforeseen benefits? Is there any research out there on this? Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Thu, 04 Feb 2016 17:17:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 16:36:19 -0800 Travis, As a Master Gardener, I've heard several speakers talk on need to protect the microorganisms in the soil if you want excellent growth. So I suspect you have a good idea regarding those bulbs that tend to be difficult to grow outside their native location. It would be interesting if someone did the research. Karl Church Dinuba zone 9b On Feb 4, 2016 4:09 PM, "Travis O" wrote: > Hi, > > I've been reading 'Teaming with Microbes' by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne > Lewis (Timber Press 2010) and it has got my imagination going. Most > gardeners are familiar with or have at least heard of the ability of > leguminous plants to "fix" nitrogen from the atmosphere into a form plants > can use, a result of a fungal symbiosis. The book describes in detail the > complex microscopic ecosystems that inhabit healthy soil and interact, in > many cases symbiotically and beneficially, with (according to the book) 90% > of all plants on Earth. > > Now it seems that the common practice amongst this group, and many other > specialized plant groups, is to use completely sterilized soil (or > "medium"). Could there be a benefit to inoculating our bulb seed, or > perhaps the dormant bulbs themselves, as one may do with food crops? > > To me, it seems entirely reasonable to assume that many wild bulb > populations have some sort of positive relationship to the microfauna in > the soil they share. Keeping with this line of reasoning, I wonder if some > of the "difficult" bulbous species out there, unknown in cultivation, may > only need the correct fungal association (or bacterial, or whatever) to > survive in cultivation? Or could using beneficial bacteria/fungi to > inoculate our current bulbs improve their vigor, or other unforeseen > benefits? > > Is there any research out there on this? > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From teck11@embarqmail.com Thu, 04 Feb 2016 17:17:09 -0800 Message-Id: <004f01d15fad$63db4370$2b91ca50$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 19:37:26 -0500 I usually buy Pro-Mix with mycorrhyzae plus biofungicide added. It's the green and orange bale. Tim Eck > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Travis O > Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 7:09 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] Inoculating bulbs? > > Hi, > > I've been reading 'Teaming with Microbes' by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne > Lewis (Timber Press 2010) and it has got my imagination going. Most > gardeners are familiar with or have at least heard of the ability of leguminous > plants to "fix" nitrogen from the atmosphere into a form plants can use, a > result of a fungal symbiosis. The book describes in detail the complex > microscopic ecosystems that inhabit healthy soil and interact, in many cases > symbiotically and beneficially, with (according to the book) 90% of all plants > on Earth. > > Now it seems that the common practice amongst this group, and many other > specialized plant groups, is to use completely sterilized soil (or "medium"). > Could there be a benefit to inoculating our bulb seed, or perhaps the > dormant bulbs themselves, as one may do with food crops? > > To me, it seems entirely reasonable to assume that many wild bulb > populations have some sort of positive relationship to the microfauna in the > soil they share. Keeping with this line of reasoning, I wonder if some of the > "difficult" bulbous species out there, unknown in cultivation, may only need > the correct fungal association (or bacterial, or whatever) to survive in > cultivation? Or could using beneficial bacteria/fungi to inoculate our current > bulbs improve their vigor, or other unforeseen benefits? > > Is there any research out there on this? > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From mikerumm@gmail.com Thu, 04 Feb 2016 17:17:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mike Rummerfield Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 16:55:58 -0800 Travis, Very good questions. I have long taken the opposite approach to sterilization as it's never made biological sense to me. Plus, it seems it is often that the pests/pathogens are the first to colonize a sterile environment. I always use an unsterilized medium and add beneficial microbe inoculants, and it usually works for me, though I have no research on it. It only makes sense to me that plants/bulbs that have their own idiosyncratic, symbiotic, synergistic microbes available to them are much better to ward off pathogens and to thrive; both in the soil, and on the above ground parts where the beneficials take up all the "real estate" so that pathogens have nowhere to set up house and do their damage. Nature has had much longer to work this out than we have. Hopefully, someone with real knowledge on this subject will respond to your queries. An aside: I do sterilize something like coco husk chips that are imported from a foreign country so as not to possibly introduce organisms that are not native to the local biome, but then reinoculate it. Regards, Mike Washington state rain, 44℉ (7℃) On Thu, Feb 4, 2016 at 4:09 PM, Travis O wrote: > Hi, > > I've been reading 'Teaming with Microbes' by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne > Lewis (Timber Press 2010) and it has got my imagination going. Most > gardeners are familiar with or have at least heard of the ability of > leguminous plants to "fix" nitrogen from the atmosphere into a form plants > can use, a result of a fungal symbiosis. The book describes in detail the > complex microscopic ecosystems that inhabit healthy soil and interact, in > many cases symbiotically and beneficially, with (according to the book) 90% > of all plants on Earth. > > Now it seems that the common practice amongst this group, and many other > specialized plant groups, is to use completely sterilized soil (or > "medium"). Could there be a benefit to inoculating our bulb seed, or > perhaps the dormant bulbs themselves, as one may do with food crops? > > To me, it seems entirely reasonable to assume that many wild bulb > populations have some sort of positive relationship to the microfauna in > the soil they share. Keeping with this line of reasoning, I wonder if some > of the "difficult" bulbous species out there, unknown in cultivation, may > only need the correct fungal association (or bacterial, or whatever) to > survive in cultivation? Or could using beneficial bacteria/fungi to > inoculate our current bulbs improve their vigor, or other unforeseen > benefits? > > Is there any research out there on this? > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From codavis@ucdavis.edu Thu, 04 Feb 2016 17:17:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Colin Davis Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:09:03 -0800 A superior innoculant can be purchased at Fungi Perfecti called Myco Grow, both water soluble and as a powder. It contains broad range of beneficial bacteria and fungi. Sterility is stressed in horticulture due to the fear of introducing and dissemination of plant pathogens. Species in their native habitats are without doubt growing amongst an environment teeming with both pathogenic and beneficial microbes, its this balance between the good and bad that keeps disease in check (for the most part). I have never heard of any downside to adding mycorrhizae or other beneficials to soil, and its regularly used in many divisions of plant trade. Preferably a pasteurized soil would be used, knocking whatever pathogenic microbes might be present and then introducing a large population of beneficials. Colin Davis Northern California On Thu, Feb 4, 2016 at 4:55 PM, Mike Rummerfield wrote: > Travis, > Very good questions. I have long taken the opposite approach to > sterilization as it's never made biological sense to me. Plus, it seems it > is often that the pests/pathogens are the first to colonize a sterile > environment. I always use an unsterilized medium and add beneficial > microbe inoculants, and it usually works for me, though I have no research > on it. > > It only makes sense to me that plants/bulbs that have their own > idiosyncratic, symbiotic, synergistic microbes available to them are much > better to ward off pathogens and to thrive; both in the soil, and on the > above ground parts where the beneficials take up all the "real estate" so > that pathogens have nowhere to set up house and do their damage. > > Nature has had much longer to work this out than we have. > > Hopefully, someone with real knowledge on this subject will respond to your > queries. > > An aside: I do sterilize something like coco husk chips that are imported > from a foreign country so as not to possibly introduce organisms that are > not native to the local biome, but then reinoculate it. > > Regards, > Mike > Washington state > rain, 44℉ (7℃) > > On Thu, Feb 4, 2016 at 4:09 PM, Travis O wrote: > > > Hi, > > > > I've been reading 'Teaming with Microbes' by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne > > Lewis (Timber Press 2010) and it has got my imagination going. Most > > gardeners are familiar with or have at least heard of the ability of > > leguminous plants to "fix" nitrogen from the atmosphere into a form > plants > > can use, a result of a fungal symbiosis. The book describes in detail the > > complex microscopic ecosystems that inhabit healthy soil and interact, in > > many cases symbiotically and beneficially, with (according to the book) > 90% > > of all plants on Earth. > > > > Now it seems that the common practice amongst this group, and many other > > specialized plant groups, is to use completely sterilized soil (or > > "medium"). Could there be a benefit to inoculating our bulb seed, or > > perhaps the dormant bulbs themselves, as one may do with food crops? > > > > To me, it seems entirely reasonable to assume that many wild bulb > > populations have some sort of positive relationship to the microfauna in > > the soil they share. Keeping with this line of reasoning, I wonder if > some > > of the "difficult" bulbous species out there, unknown in cultivation, may > > only need the correct fungal association (or bacterial, or whatever) to > > survive in cultivation? Or could using beneficial bacteria/fungi to > > inoculate our current bulbs improve their vigor, or other unforeseen > > benefits? > > > > Is there any research out there on this? > > > > Travis Owen > > Rogue River, OR > > > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 04 Feb 2016 17:17:09 -0800 Message-Id: <56B3F6D8.4000404@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:11:52 -0800 When I lived in the country and grew many kinds of bulbs in pots in unheated frames, I always made up my potting soil with coarse sand, pumice, and topsoil that I dug in my alder woodland and sieved. During potting season I started each day by preparing a large wheelbarrow of this gritty, mainly leafmold soil, which I then mixed with the other ingredients, which I was able to buy by the truckload. This introduced a wide range of microorganisms to the bulbs' soil. I always felt that this helped. Now I can't get natural topsoil (the soil in my new garden is heavy clay, which can't be mixed in) and the bulbs are not growing as well, even though I fertilize them adequately. I'm gradually changing the soil mix in my bulb beds to incorporate more pumice and organic matter, but it's impossible to buy organic soil components here that don't contain composted bark and/or sawdust (unless you choose straight manure), and I have always thought wood products are bad for summer-dormant bulbs. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA On 2/4/2016 4:36 PM, Karl Church wrote: > Travis, > > As a Master Gardener, I've heard several speakers talk on need to protect > the microorganisms in the soil if you want excellent growth. So I suspect > you have a good idea regarding those bulbs that tend to be difficult to > grow outside their native location. It would be interesting if someone did > the research. > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 04 Feb 2016 17:17:09 -0800 Message-Id: <56B3F705.1060006@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:12:37 -0800 When I lived in the country and grew many kinds of bulbs in pots in unheated frames, I always made up my potting soil with coarse sand, pumice, and topsoil that I dug in my alder woodland and sieved. During potting season I started each day by preparing a large wheelbarrow of this mainly leafmold soil, which I then mixed with the other ingredients, which I was able to buy by the truckload. This introduced a wide range of microorganisms to the bulbs' soil. I always felt that this helped. Now I can't get natural topsoil (the soil in my new garden is heavy clay, which can't be mixed in) and the bulbs are not growing as well, even though I fertilize them adequately. I'm gradually changing the soil mix in my bulb beds to incorporate more pumice and organic matter, but it's impossible to buy organic soil components here that don't contain composted bark and/or sawdust (unless you choose straight manure), and I have always thought wood products are bad for summer-dormant bulbs. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA On 2/4/2016 4:36 PM, Karl Church wrote: > Travis, > > As a Master Gardener, I've heard several speakers talk on need to protect > the microorganisms in the soil if you want excellent growth. So I suspect > you have a good idea regarding those bulbs that tend to be difficult to > grow outside their native location. It would be interesting if someone did > the research. > From penstemon@Q.com Thu, 04 Feb 2016 18:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <0C28F5490450463897FEBBB1EF542A83@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 18:28:56 -0700 >To me, it seems entirely reasonable to assume that many wild bulb populations have some sort of positive relationship to the microfauna in the soil they share. Keeping with this line of reasoning, I wonder if some of the "difficult" bulbous species out there, unknown in cultivation, may only need the correct fungal association (or bacterial, or whatever) to survive in cultivation? Or could using beneficial bacteria/fungi to inoculate our current bulbs improve their vigor, or other unforeseen benefits? Probably. One would also probably need to use the correct species of mycorrhiza. Fertilizing with phosphorus would require considerable care, as the acceptable “window” is very small, if not infinitesimal. Fungicides are of course fatal to mycorrhizae. I’ve never noticed any difference in non-bulbous plants grown in mycorrhizae-inoculated soil-less mixes and those grown in regular soil-less mixes, but then, I might not be very observant. Bob Nold, Denver, Colorado, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From michaelcmace@gmail.com Thu, 04 Feb 2016 19:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <00ad01d15fbc$e637ec10$b2a7c430$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Inoculating bulbs Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 18:28:28 -0800 (Travis asked if there has been any research on beneficial microbes for bulbs.) The only info I'm aware of is the literature on growing Australian summer-dormant orchids. They are unearthly beautiful, but apparently absolutely require a symbiotic fungus, which makes them incredibly difficult to grow in cultivation. There are some links on the subject in our wiki listing on Thelymitra: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Thelymitra Mike San Jose, CA From dr.mas.roberts@gmail.com Thu, 04 Feb 2016 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: mrobertson Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 20:08:51 -0800 Travis I hope you will pursue your idea of finding ways to grow species not yet in cultivation. Doubtless there are beneficial combinations of soil microorganisms for some, if not all, geophytes. However, consider that soil fumigation is practiced on many valuable crops, such as berries, at great expense not out of ignorance or a failure to practice good stewardship of the soil, like crop rotation, but because it really does protect plants from many deadly soil pathogens. I am not advocating fumigants, just saying that what is natural in your air and soil is not inevitably beneficial. Just as deer are a charming component of natural environments, doesn't mean they can be tolerated in a garden. What you choose to do to improve your bulb cultivation should closely correlate with the value of the plants. Spores of really deadly pathogenic fungi like verticillium and fungus-like organisms such phytophthora are ubiquitous. Experiment as you can but whenever possible include expe rimental controls or checks as they are called in agricultural research, and plan replicates when you set up your experimental design. Change only one variable at a time. And the best growers keep good records as I have seen you already do. Many people are unaware that statistics as a mathematical field was invented for agricultural research. I bring this up because it really Is difficult to tell if the difference you observe between the experimental and the check is really different or only seemed to be different. What is the best fertilizer ratio? Does pasteurizing soil improve bulb growth and survival? Does addition of mycorrhizal fungi help? Have fun speculating and experimenting, but from my own blunders, I can advise caution with valuable plants. Have fun experimenting on those you can afford to lose. Mark Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 4, 2016, at 4:36 PM, Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> wrote: > > Travis, > > As a Master Gardener, I've heard several speakers talk on need to protect > the microorganisms in the soil if you want excellent growth. So I suspect > you have a good idea regarding those bulbs that tend to be difficult to > grow outside their native location. It would be interesting if someone did > the research. > > Karl Church > Dinuba zone 9b >> On Feb 4, 2016 4:09 PM, "Travis O" wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> I've been reading 'Teaming with Microbes' by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne >> Lewis (Timber Press 2010) and it has got my imagination going. Most >> gardeners are familiar with or have at least heard of the ability of >> leguminous plants to "fix" nitrogen from the atmosphere into a form plants >> can use, a result of a fungal symbiosis. The book describes in detail the >> complex microscopic ecosystems that inhabit healthy soil and interact, in >> many cases symbiotically and beneficially, with (according to the book) 90% >> of all plants on Earth. >> >> Now it seems that the common practice amongst this group, and many other >> specialized plant groups, is to use completely sterilized soil (or >> "medium"). Could there be a benefit to inoculating our bulb seed, or >> perhaps the dormant bulbs themselves, as one may do with food crops? >> >> To me, it seems entirely reasonable to assume that many wild bulb >> populations have some sort of positive relationship to the microfauna in >> the soil they share. Keeping with this line of reasoning, I wonder if some >> of the "difficult" bulbous species out there, unknown in cultivation, may >> only need the correct fungal association (or bacterial, or whatever) to >> survive in cultivation? Or could using beneficial bacteria/fungi to >> inoculate our current bulbs improve their vigor, or other unforeseen >> benefits? >> >> Is there any research out there on this? >> >> Travis Owen >> Rogue River, OR >> >> www.amateuranthecologist.com >> www.pacificbulbsociety.org >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ksayce@willapabay.org Thu, 04 Feb 2016 23:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: inoculating bulbs Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 22:45:35 -0800 I have amended my soil (which is silty sand) with several carbon amendments for years, and been rewarded with abundant fungal rhizomes. It’s a pleasure to dig up a patch of bulbs to divide, and even as they go dormant, see roots tangled with fungal filaments. Interesting new book came my way this week: The Hidden Half of Nature, by David Montgomery and Anne Bikle, comparing thriving soils to thriving digestive tracts. Nice read, many references, worth pondering. As for sterile soils, a friend that compounds biochar plus mineral soil mixes for vegetable growing found that pot farmers were using his mix to grow marijuana plants, having started with sterile hydroponic conditions, and with microbially active potting mixes, could forego the clean room approach, and have sturdier plants that flower earlier and more. He was a little dismayed to see them buying out his bagged soil, not the market he was aiming for. Kathleen From erik@tepuidesign.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 02:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Erik Van Lennep Subject: inoculating bulbs Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 10:40:54 +0100 On 5 February 2016 at 07:45, Kathleen Sayce wrote: > The Hidden Half of Nature, Thanks for the inspiration and the book recommendation (found it and downloading now)! Erik van Lennep (currently) Barcelona, Calatunya .......where we missed winter and seem to be hurtling straight into summer again. When "normal" still existed, we were zone 10 From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Fri, 05 Feb 2016 04:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <1640373865.7266.1454672372481.JavaMail.www@wwinf1g20> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 12:39:32 +0100 (CET) I could not have said things better! This is exactly the kind of path I am trying to take these days. So pleased to read more on the subject!   Mark         > Message du 05/02/16 01:56 > De : "Mike Rummerfield" " I have long taken the opposite approach to sterilization as it's never made biological sense to me. Plus, it seems it is often that the pests/pathogens are the first to colonize a sterile environment. I always use an unsterilized medium and add beneficial microbe inoculants, and it usually works for me, though I have no research on it. It only makes sense to me that plants/bulbs that have their own idiosyncratic, symbiotic, synergistic microbes available to them are much better to ward off pathogens and to thrive; both in the soil, and on the above ground parts where the beneficials take up all the "real estate" so that pathogens have nowhere to set up house and do their damage. Nature has had much longer to work this out than we have. Hopefully, someone with real knowledge on this subject will respond to your queries. An aside: I do sterilize something like coco husk chips that are imported from a foreign country so as not to possibly introduce organisms that are not native to the local biome, but then reinoculate it." _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rredbbeard@yahoo.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 06:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1454678537.8085.YahooMailMobile@web120403.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rick Buell Subject: HAVE:hippeastrum mandonii pollen available Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 05:22:17 -0800 I have a limited quantity of fresh pollen of this species available. If you'd like some, please contact me privately, and put the word 'pollen' in the subject line. Thanks, Rick Buell New London, CT From memobaquerizo@yahoo.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 07:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1522890809.2380909.1454684918706.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Guillermo Baquerizo Subject: bulbos de crinum Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 15:08:38 +0000 (UTC) hola alguien me puede ayudar, quien tiene en venta bulbos de crinum. gracias guillermo baquerioEl único _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From dkramb@badbear.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 08:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: bulbos de crinum Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 10:23:33 -0500 have you tried eBay? I think eBay is a great place to start. Dennis in Cincinnati On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 10:08 AM, Guillermo Baquerizo < memobaquerizo@yahoo.com> wrote: > hola alguien me puede ayudar, quien tiene en venta bulbos de crinum. > gracias guillermo baquerioEl único > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From memobaquerizo@yahoo.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 08:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: <658309758.2464427.1454686818327.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Guillermo Baquerizo Subject: bulbos de crinum Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 15:40:18 +0000 (UTC) si ya vi, en ebay, el único que vende fuera de USA es bulbsnmorenursery, pero sus precios me parecen muy caros, ya he comprado a El algunos.... De todas manera estoy muy agradecido de Usted, saludos El único De: Dennis Kramb Para: Pacific Bulb Society Enviado: Viernes 5 de febrero de 2016 10:23 Asunto: Re: [pbs] bulbos de crinum have you tried eBay?  I think eBay is a great place to start. Dennis in Cincinnati On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 10:08 AM, Guillermo Baquerizo < memobaquerizo@yahoo.com> wrote: > hola alguien me puede ayudar, quien tiene en venta bulbos de crinum. > gracias guillermo baquerioEl único > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Fri, 05 Feb 2016 08:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: <56B4C397.2040101@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: bulbos de crinum Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 15:45:27 +0000 Where to Obtain Species Bulbs http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources Dedicated bulb/seed source search engine. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From teck11@embarqmail.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 09:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <002e01d16031$8277fa60$8767ef20$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 11:23:11 -0500 In various trees that use ecto rather than endomycorrhyzae, the mycorrhyzae appear to confer some protection against phytophthora and other soilborn pathogens. Also, since the cabbage family doesn't use mycorrhyzae, they produce natural fungicides as quasi-allelopaths. From memobaquerizo@yahoo.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 09:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1847375468.2389720.1454689580131.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Guillermo Baquerizo Subject: bulbos de crinum Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 16:26:20 +0000 (UTC) thanks very much, regards | Este correo electrónico se ha enviado desde un equipo libre de virus y protegido por Avast. www.avast.com |  El único De: David Pilling Para: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Enviado: Viernes 5 de febrero de 2016 10:45 Asunto: Re: [pbs] bulbos de crinum Where to Obtain Species Bulbs http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources Dedicated bulb/seed source search engine. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From fbiasella@watertownsavings.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 11:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <8B527E4BF1849349A39D95E700706C61619D6176@S1P5DAG5B.EXCHPROD.USA.NET> From: Fred Biasella Subject: bulbos de crinum Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 18:45:55 +0000 Hola Guillermo, Adonde estas? Yo tengo unos quantos pero todvia son pequenos y tienen mas o menos un ano y medio de edad. Hace demasadio frio y no se si to los puedo enviar por correo. Dejame saber adonde vivis. Fred Biasella Cambridge (Boston) MA ________________________________________ From: pbs [pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] on behalf of Guillermo Baquerizo [memobaquerizo@yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 10:40 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] bulbos de crinum si ya vi, en ebay, el único que vende fuera de USA es bulbsnmorenursery, pero sus precios me parecen muy caros, ya he comprado a El algunos.... De todas manera estoy muy agradecido de Usted, saludos El único De: Dennis Kramb Para: Pacific Bulb Society Enviado: Viernes 5 de febrero de 2016 10:23 Asunto: Re: [pbs] bulbos de crinum have you tried eBay? I think eBay is a great place to start. Dennis in Cincinnati On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 10:08 AM, Guillermo Baquerizo < memobaquerizo@yahoo.com> wrote: > hola alguien me puede ayudar, quien tiene en venta bulbos de crinum. > gracias guillermo baquerioEl único > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 16:05:34 -0500 I am looking for several Scadoxus species - for example; nutans, cinnabarinus, etc. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks! On Wed, Jan 20, 2016 at 1:16 AM, Bulbophile© < bulbophile+noreply@googlegroups.com> wrote: > Bulbophile© Google Groups > [image: Logo for Google Groups] > > Hi Jude Haverington, > Bulbophile added you to the *Bulbophile©* > group. > Message from Bulbophile > > Welcome to our new Google Group -- this group has been initiated to assist > the promotion of rare bulb species. Please feel free to share info, images, > links and gardening tips. > About this group > > Administered by Neil de Jager: https://www.facebook.com/neil.dejager.7 > About: African botanical species Specifics: Emphasis on bulb species > > Google Groups allows you to create and participate in online forums and > email-based groups with a rich community experience. You can also use your > Group to share documents, pictures, and calendars invitations. > > If you do not wish to be a member of this group you can unsubscribe > . > If you believe this group may contain spam, you can also report > > the group for abuse. For additional information see our help center > . > View this group > If you do not wish to be added to Google Groups in the future you can opt > out here . > Start a new group. Visit > the help > center. > -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From dr.mas.roberts@gmail.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 19:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <3DCCA2C0-09AD-4F3C-BA0A-8DB1AB36E420@gmail.com> From: mrobertson Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 18:24:37 -0800 I am receiving unsolicited bulbophile spam from PBS from which I cannot unsubscribe even from the link that says unsubscribe. Please help! Mark Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 5, 2016, at 1:05 PM, The Silent Seed wrote: > > I am looking for several Scadoxus species - for example; nutans, > cinnabarinus, etc. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks! > > > On Wed, Jan 20, 2016 at 1:16 AM, Bulbophile© < > bulbophile+noreply@googlegroups.com> wrote: > >> Bulbophile© Google Groups >> [image: Logo for Google Groups] >> >> Hi Jude Haverington, >> Bulbophile added you to the *Bulbophile©* >> group. >> Message from Bulbophile >> >> Welcome to our new Google Group -- this group has been initiated to assist >> the promotion of rare bulb species. Please feel free to share info, images, >> links and gardening tips. >> About this group >> >> Administered by Neil de Jager: https://www.facebook.com/neil.dejager.7 >> About: African botanical species Specifics: Emphasis on bulb species >> >> Google Groups allows you to create and participate in online forums and >> email-based groups with a rich community experience. You can also use your >> Group to share documents, pictures, and calendars invitations. >> >> If you do not wish to be a member of this group you can unsubscribe >> . >> If you believe this group may contain spam, you can also report >> >> the group for abuse. For additional information see our help center >> . >> View this group >> If you do not wish to be added to Google Groups in the future you can opt >> out here . >> Start a new group. Visit >> the help >> center. > > > > -- > The Silent Seed > Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. > thesilentseed.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From dzoonokwa@gmail.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 19:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Sami Gray Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 18:27:07 -0800 me too- I got a message saying I have been subscribed; "unsubscribe" link gives me a message that I must join… in order to unjoin? grrr. On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:24 PM, mrobertson wrote: > I am receiving unsolicited bulbophile spam from PBS from which I cannot > unsubscribe even from the link that says unsubscribe. Please help! > Mark > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Feb 5, 2016, at 1:05 PM, The Silent Seed > wrote: > > > > I am looking for several Scadoxus species - for example; nutans, > > cinnabarinus, etc. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks! > > > > > > On Wed, Jan 20, 2016 at 1:16 AM, Bulbophile© < > > bulbophile+noreply@googlegroups.com> wrote: > > > >> Bulbophile© Google > Groups > >> [image: Logo for Google Groups] > >> > >> Hi Jude Haverington, > >> Bulbophile added you to the *Bulbophile©* > >> group. > >> Message from Bulbophile > >> > >> Welcome to our new Google Group -- this group has been initiated to > assist > >> the promotion of rare bulb species. Please feel free to share info, > images, > >> links and gardening tips. > >> About this group > >> > >> Administered by Neil de Jager: https://www.facebook.com/neil.dejager.7 > >> About: African botanical species Specifics: Emphasis on bulb species > >> > >> Google Groups allows you to create and participate in online forums and > >> email-based groups with a rich community experience. You can also use > your > >> Group to share documents, pictures, and calendars invitations. > >> > >> If you do not wish to be a member of this group you can unsubscribe > >> < > https://groups.google.com/d/forum/bulbophile/unsubscribe/CO5MyxQAAAC7_IoXNELqnDqNPuTCAeePl67yuWzE2LchcqSBBvj0jg > >. > >> If you believe this group may contain spam, you can also report > >> < > https://groups.google.com/d/abuse/YQAAAMNAt4hVAAAAEfHCU_QAAACi_-V1agBU-T8fKyeHQEQ6KtVSVc8 > > > >> the group for abuse. For additional information see our help center > >> . > >> View this group > >> If you do not wish to be added to Google Groups in the future you can > opt > >> out here . > >> Start a new group. Visit > >> the help > >> center. > > > > > > > > -- > > The Silent Seed > > Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. > > thesilentseed.com > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- Sami Gray North Coast Natives (360) 779-5002 http://north-coast-natives.vpweb.com http://north-coast-natives.blogspot.com http://island-horticultural-services.blogspot.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From johnstone.jr@gmail.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 19:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: "J. R. Johnstone" Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 21:50:11 -0500 I don't believe any of us had been subscribed. I believe the original poster had just joined that list and then proceeded to ask a question to that list by replying to the subscription acknowledgment email they had received. Before sending they proceeded to add the PBS list also as a recipient of their message so they could ask both lists the same question simultaneously. Warmest regards, J. R. Johnstone On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 9:27 PM, Sami Gray wrote: > me too- I got a message saying I have been subscribed; "unsubscribe" link > gives me a message that I must join… in order to unjoin? grrr. > > On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:24 PM, mrobertson > wrote: > > > I am receiving unsolicited bulbophile spam from PBS from which I cannot > > unsubscribe even from the link that says unsubscribe. Please help! > > Mark > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Feb 5, 2016, at 1:05 PM, The Silent Seed > > wrote: > > > > > > I am looking for several Scadoxus species - for example; nutans, > > > cinnabarinus, etc. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks! > > > > > > > > > On Wed, Jan 20, 2016 at 1:16 AM, Bulbophile© < > > > bulbophile+noreply@googlegroups.com> wrote: > > > > > >> Bulbophile© Google > > Groups > > >> [image: Logo for Google > Groups] > > >> > > >> Hi Jude Haverington, > > >> Bulbophile added you to the *Bulbophile©* > > >> group. > > >> Message from Bulbophile > > >> > > >> Welcome to our new Google Group -- this group has been initiated to > > assist > > >> the promotion of rare bulb species. Please feel free to share info, > > images, > > >> links and gardening tips. > > >> About this group > > >> > > >> Administered by Neil de Jager: > https://www.facebook.com/neil.dejager.7 > > >> About: African botanical species Specifics: Emphasis on bulb species > > >> > > >> Google Groups allows you to create and participate in online forums > and > > >> email-based groups with a rich community experience. You can also use > > your > > >> Group to share documents, pictures, and calendars invitations. > > >> > > >> If you do not wish to be a member of this group you can unsubscribe > > >> < > > > https://groups.google.com/d/forum/bulbophile/unsubscribe/CO5MyxQAAAC7_IoXNELqnDqNPuTCAeePl67yuWzE2LchcqSBBvj0jg > > >. > > >> If you believe this group may contain spam, you can also report > > >> < > > > https://groups.google.com/d/abuse/YQAAAMNAt4hVAAAAEfHCU_QAAACi_-V1agBU-T8fKyeHQEQ6KtVSVc8 > > > > > >> the group for abuse. For additional information see our help center > > >> . > > >> View this group > > >> If you do not wish to be added to Google Groups in the future you can > > opt > > >> out here . > > >> Start a new group. Visit > > >> the > help > > >> center. > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > The Silent Seed > > > Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. > > > thesilentseed.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > -- > Sami Gray > North Coast Natives > (360) 779-5002 > http://north-coast-natives.vpweb.com > http://north-coast-natives.blogspot.com > http://island-horticultural-services.blogspot.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Fri, 05 Feb 2016 19:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <56B5606D.3010507@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 02:54:37 +0000 Hi, What has happened here is that The Silent Seed has posted to both Bulbohpile and PBS quoting an earlier Bulbophile posting. Not a big deal, because this only occurs if someone chooses to quote a posting from another list - which mostly they do not. Seeing the reaction perhaps (hint hint) this is something to avoid doing. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From dzoonokwa@gmail.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 19:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Sami Gray Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 18:56:36 -0800 yes, I remembered too late that this was my original conclusion about it. thanks for confirming. On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:54 PM, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > What has happened here is that The Silent Seed has posted to both > Bulbohpile and PBS quoting an earlier Bulbophile posting. > > Not a big deal, because this only occurs if someone chooses to quote a > posting from another list - which mostly they do not. > > Seeing the reaction perhaps (hint hint) this is something to avoid doing. > > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Sami Gray North Coast Natives (360) 779-5002 http://north-coast-natives.vpweb.com http://north-coast-natives.blogspot.com http://island-horticultural-services.blogspot.com From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 19:46:25 -0800 I got the same notice & the same results when I tried to unsubscribe. Please rectify this ASAP. Karl Church On Feb 5, 2016 1:05 PM, "The Silent Seed" wrote: > I am looking for several Scadoxus species - for example; nutans, > cinnabarinus, etc. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks! > > > On Wed, Jan 20, 2016 at 1:16 AM, Bulbophile© < > bulbophile+noreply@googlegroups.com> wrote: > > > Bulbophile© Google Groups > > [image: Logo for Google Groups] > > > > Hi Jude Haverington, > > Bulbophile added you to the *Bulbophile©* > > group. > > Message from Bulbophile > > > > Welcome to our new Google Group -- this group has been initiated to > assist > > the promotion of rare bulb species. Please feel free to share info, > images, > > links and gardening tips. > > About this group > > > > Administered by Neil de Jager: https://www.facebook.com/neil.dejager.7 > > About: African botanical species Specifics: Emphasis on bulb species > > > > Google Groups allows you to create and participate in online forums and > > email-based groups with a rich community experience. You can also use > your > > Group to share documents, pictures, and calendars invitations. > > > > If you do not wish to be a member of this group you can unsubscribe > > < > https://groups.google.com/d/forum/bulbophile/unsubscribe/CO5MyxQAAAC7_IoXNELqnDqNPuTCAeePl67yuWzE2LchcqSBBvj0jg > >. > > If you believe this group may contain spam, you can also report > > < > https://groups.google.com/d/abuse/YQAAAMNAt4hVAAAAEfHCU_QAAACi_-V1agBU-T8fKyeHQEQ6KtVSVc8 > > > > the group for abuse. For additional information see our help center > > . > > View this group > > If you do not wish to be added to Google Groups in the future you can opt > > out here . > > Start a new group. Visit > > the help > > center. > > > > > > -- > The Silent Seed > Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. > thesilentseed.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From mikerumm@gmail.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 22:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mike Rummerfield Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 21:48:44 -0800 This brings up an only somewhat related topic. If you've every been to the American Rockies, you may have wondered why there are meadow areas, and there are wooded areas, and they don't seem to encroach much on each other over time. Okay, maybe you haven't wondered this, but I was always curious and perplexed by this. Many years later it was explained to me that grasses thrive in soils that are bacteria dominated, and trees thrive in soils that are fungus dominated. Therefore they are happier in the soil where they reside, and are not prone to spread into the other's territory. However, one would think that trees being taller and throwing more shade would eventually win out. There must be something else going on here. Anyone out there have some input on this? Thanks, Mike On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:23 AM, Tim Eck wrote: > In various trees that use ecto rather than endomycorrhyzae, the mycorrhyzae > appear to confer some protection against phytophthora and other soilborn > pathogens. > Also, since the cabbage family doesn't use mycorrhyzae, they produce > natural > fungicides as quasi-allelopaths. > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From penstemon@Q.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 22:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 23:11:29 -0700 >Anyone out there have some input on this? Naturally. .... The amount of available soil oxygen and water (what is bizarrely characterized as “drainage” in horticulture) is a determining factor. Possibly the determining factor. Conifers, the dominant tree type in the Rockies just west of here, grow on more highly-oxygenated, porous soils than do grasses and meadow plants. Bacteria and fungus probably play a minimal role. Water is more readily available to plant roots in coarse soils; water penetrates more deeply, binds less clingingly to the soil particles, and is less subject to evaporation. It takes a prolonged period of higher-than-normal precipitation for conifers to be able to populate heavier soils. (The increase in the frequency of precipitation allows for greater water penetration in heavier soils.) Hence the migration of Pinus edulis to heavier, clay-type soils during a period of much higher precipitation about 600 years ago. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 23:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 22:52:35 -0800 Thank you all for the very supportive and provocative responses, I hope to someday be in a position to pursue this hypothesis and form some theories! I dream of discovery... Mike Rummerfield and Bob, I think you are both talking about two sides of the same coin. 'Teaming with Microbes' (get it, it's awesome) states [in general] annual plants are more prevalent in bacterially dominated soils. No coincidence that bacteria are the first colonizers of freshly disturbed soils (from humans, or otherwise), perhaps explaining why invasive weeds are first to colonize disturbed soils. Perennials on the other hand, and trees/shrubs are technically perennials, prefer fungi dominated soils. Both fungi and trees occur later in the natural succession. Fungal hyphae, unlike tiny tiny tiny bacteria (unable to move very far in their lifetimes without being inadvertently relocated by larger organisms), can grow very long and cross larger gaps in the soil (microscopic gaps that bacteria can't navigate), so can potentially thrive in more open, free draining soils. Or at least that's how I've interpreted it. And to respond to an earlier point, there are fungi and bacteria which can live symbiotically with both annuals and perennials in the rhizosphere (the area directly around plant roots; there is an exchange of nutrients) as well as in the plant tissue itself. The latter types have had surprising benefits such as protecting the plants from pathogens or herbivores. And to be clear, I'm basically quoting [not verbatim] from 'Teaming with Microbes'. I'm enthralled and smitten. Twitterpated, even! So yes, pseudo-experiments on my part wouldn't be with a single prized bulb, but something like Crocus or Narcissus, relatively cheap and available. But theoretically in a healthy soil food web the pathogenic microbes would be kept in check by the beneficial or benign ones. Similar to growing organic, the key is balance, not eradication, so there could be some losses. Growing from seed I could develop bulbs with horizontal resistance rather than the vertical resistance of clones. I wonder how a bulb/fungus symbiosis would work with a species that essentially has annual root systems. I assume the fungus would have a corresponding dormancy cycle. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From enoster@hotmail.com Fri, 05 Feb 2016 23:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 23:01:22 -0800 It's simple. If you are asked to join, you have not been added to the group, and hence cannot unsubscribe (because you weren't subscribed in the first place, see next paragraph). The original inquisitor just replied to the Bulbophile group's "Welcome" email and CC'd the PBS list, much to your confusion, in order to ask a question to both groups. Perhaps in the future it would be best to write to each list separately to avoid confusion, particularly since the recent discussion of spam has everyone on guard. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From rredbbeard@yahoo.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 00:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <1454744056.72504.YahooMailMobile@web120401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rick Buell Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 23:34:16 -0800 If the perpetrator here is the same person who sells on ebay under the name 'Bulbophiled', then contacting that person directly might solve the problem? --Rick Buell From mikerumm@gmail.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 01:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mike Rummerfield Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 00:32:05 -0800 Travis, Well put and thought out. Thank you both, Travis and Bob, and others. As usual, Nature proves to be more intricate, complex, and developed than we can imagine. In addition, speaking of the ability of fungi to spread: http://www.bbc.com/earth/story/20141114-the-biggest-organism-in-the-world Regards, Mike On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 10:52 PM, Travis O wrote: > Thank you all for the very supportive and provocative responses, I hope to > someday be in a position to pursue this hypothesis and form some theories! > I dream of discovery... > > Mike Rummerfield and Bob, I think you are both talking about two sides of > the same coin. 'Teaming with Microbes' (get it, it's awesome) states [in > general] annual plants are more prevalent in bacterially dominated soils. > No coincidence that bacteria are the first colonizers of freshly disturbed > soils (from humans, or otherwise), perhaps explaining why invasive weeds > are first to colonize disturbed soils. Perennials on the other hand, and > trees/shrubs are technically perennials, prefer fungi dominated soils. Both > fungi and trees occur later in the natural succession. Fungal hyphae, > unlike tiny tiny tiny bacteria (unable to move very far in their lifetimes > without being inadvertently relocated by larger organisms), can grow very > long and cross larger gaps in the soil (microscopic gaps that bacteria > can't navigate), so can potentially thrive in more open, free draining > soils. Or at least that's how I've interpreted it. > > And to respond to an earlier point, there are fungi and bacteria which can > live symbiotically with both annuals and perennials in the rhizosphere (the > area directly around plant roots; there is an exchange of nutrients) as > well as in the plant tissue itself. The latter types have had surprising > benefits such as protecting the plants from pathogens or herbivores. And to > be clear, I'm basically quoting [not verbatim] from 'Teaming with > Microbes'. I'm enthralled and smitten. Twitterpated, even! > > So yes, pseudo-experiments on my part wouldn't be with a single prized > bulb, but something like Crocus or Narcissus, relatively cheap and > available. But theoretically in a healthy soil food web the pathogenic > microbes would be kept in check by the beneficial or benign ones. Similar > to growing organic, the key is balance, not eradication, so there could be > some losses. Growing from seed I could develop bulbs with horizontal > resistance rather than the vertical resistance of clones. > > I wonder how a bulb/fungus symbiosis would work with a species that > essentially has annual root systems. I assume the fungus would have a > corresponding dormancy cycle. > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Sat, 06 Feb 2016 05:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <56B5E645.4080903@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 12:25:41 +0000 Hi, On 06/02/2016 07:34, Rick Buell wrote: > If the perpetrator here is the same person who sells on ebay under the name 'Bulbophiled', > then contacting that person directly might solve the problem? No. Bulbophile has not posted to this list. Bulbophile has not posted to you. On this occasion Bulbophile is innocent. All that has happened is that a member of this list has innocently copied a piece of a posting from Bulbophile into a new message he has posted to this list. It's just an accident, a one off. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Sat, 06 Feb 2016 05:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <56B5F12F.7030305@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 13:12:15 +0000 Hi, On the Bulbophile list it was stated: "Quite interesting to hear from you how many people, checkboxed via online stores, also happen to be PBS members." Implying if you were subscribed that's how, B* had not pilfered the PBS membership list, rather merchants selling your email address. Second, note how toxic the name B* now is. Finally The Silent Seed has not had a reply to his question. Moral - it is worth making your emails clear. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From penstemon@Q.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 08:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <0BDFCB27EB6446FF93D0E4404B404ABA@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 08:36:50 -0700 >I wonder how a bulb/fungus symbiosis would work with a species that essentially has annual root systems. I assume the fungus would have a corresponding dormancy cycle. That occurred to me, too. My (admittedly jaded) response to almost anything with the word “mycorrhizae” in it is that the fungi are already present in most garden soils which have not been polluted by an excess of chemical fertilizers or fungicides, and, if left alone, will do their job perfectly well. Which is to pull water to the roots during periods of drought. It isn’t necessary to add any fungi to a garden where the plants have demonstrated an ability to survive without precipitation for months on end, like they have here. Naturally, some people will associate a healthy, mycorrhizae-infested soil with one high in added organic matter; I see a healthy soil as one in which nothing has been added, and nothing subtracted. The value of adding mycorrhizae to pot-grown plants sounds dubious to me, since this would require such a careful application of fertilizers as to take all the pleasure out of growing the plants. It’s probably true that bulbs would benefit from a mycorrhizal association in the garden, but if the mycorrhizae are not already present then the reason for that needs to be investigated. (If your garden is on old mine tailings, then that’s the reason.) Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 08:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: Scadoxus Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 10:39:47 -0500 I am looking to expand my Scadoxus collection if any of you have some seeds or offsets to trade / sell. Thank you -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com From joturner57@gmail.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 09:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1C96BFEB9DD9432AA77434508EA172AC@JOHP> From: "Jo Turner" Subject: You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 08:16:38 -0800 I do not wish to be on this list any more. Please remove my name asap. Thank you. Jo Turner -----Original Message----- From: David Pilling Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 5:12 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] You have been added to Bulbophile(c) Hi, On the Bulbophile list it was stated: "Quite interesting to hear from you how many people, checkboxed via online stores, also happen to be PBS members." Implying if you were subscribed that's how, B* had not pilfered the PBS membership list, rather merchants selling your email address. Second, note how toxic the name B* now is. Finally The Silent Seed has not had a reply to his question. Moral - it is worth making your emails clear. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From penstemon@Q.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <2690BF9ED8604D47B96FAE3CAB8BC151@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: mycorrhizae and phosphorus Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 10:44:13 -0700 I assume (I know what happens when I assume) that most people who grow bulbs in pots add fertilizer at one time or another. “The benefits of mycorrhizae are greatest when soil phosphorus levels are at or below 50 ppm (50 mg kg -1). Mycorrhizal infection of roots declines above this level with little if any infection occurring above 100 ppm P even when soil is inoculated with a mycorrhizae mix.” http://mining.state.co.us/SiteCollectionDocuments/MycorrhizaAndSoilPhosphorusLevels.pdf Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From mikerumm@gmail.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mike Rummerfield Subject: mycorrhizae and phosphorus Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 11:04:34 -0800 Good information to know. I assume (uh oh) that includes both beneficial and pathogenetic mycorrhiza? Mike On Sat, Feb 6, 2016 at 9:44 AM, penstemon wrote: > I assume (I know what happens when I assume) that most people who grow > bulbs in pots add fertilizer at one time or another. > > “The benefits of mycorrhizae are greatest when soil phosphorus levels are > at or below 50 ppm (50 mg kg -1). Mycorrhizal infection of roots declines > above this level with little if any infection occurring above 100 ppm P > even when soil is inoculated with a mycorrhizae mix.” > > > http://mining.state.co.us/SiteCollectionDocuments/MycorrhizaAndSoilPhosphorusLevels.pdf > > > Bob Nold > Denver, Colorado, USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 11:54:13 -0800 @Bob, Couldn't agree more. Aside from the thought that uncultivated bulb species may require symbiosis or other associations to survive, I have a keen interest in the landscape in front of the office at my work. It is compacted, and grey, both signs of biologically dead soil. There are some gigantic mushrooms that appear in Autumn in one section, but that may only mean that it is dominated by a single fungi, not a thriving soil ecosystem. I have been slowly adding plants (including some bulbs) and fixing the irrigation system, hopefully to the benefit of pollinators and soil flora alike. There is a chance that there were some bacterial/fungal/protozoan/etc. hitchhikers in the soil the plants were planted with, so there is hope that I've inadvertently introduced some more diversity into the industrial landscape that is my workplace (a factory). Good information about the phosphorus, thanks! I'll add that soil biodiversity is better with a pH of 7 or higher, as that is what it takes for bacteria to flourish. Bacteria are at the base of the food web, eaten by nearly every other soil-dwelling microorganism, so they are kind of important. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From penstemon@Q.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <3D4F917DC1CC4B2AA875E762D49F6C07@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: mycorrhizae and phosphorus Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 13:02:59 -0700 >Good information to know. I assume (uh oh) that includes both beneficial and pathogenetic mycorrhiza? I don’t know. But I think you can see how difficult it would be to calculate a safe amount of phosphorus for pot-grown bulbs. I would think the simplest course of action would be to omit it altogether. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From penstemon@Q.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 13:37:28 -0700 >Good information about the phosphorus, thanks! I'll add that soil biodiversity is better with a pH of 7 or higher, as that is what it takes for bacteria to flourish. Bacteria are at the base of the food web, eaten by nearly every other soil-dwelling microorganism, so they are kind of important. Sure. Someone told me that adding mycorrhizae to garden soil can’t hurt, though for some plants the addition might have no effect, or it could be the wrong kind (ecto-, arbuscular, or arbutoid), or the wrong species in the case of a plant which is colonized by only one species, or the mycorrhizae could be dead on arrival. There seems to be some evidence that species dependent of ectomycorrhizae can survive under, say, manzanitas (arbutoid), but whether or not calochortus, which I assume are associated with arbuscular mycrorrhizae (the most common type) would survive in a similar situation is another story. (There’s a short paper on this subject you can download if you Google “manzanita mycorrhizae” and then “Download Emily’s synopsis...”) Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From xerantheum@gmail.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 21:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 20:55:12 -0800 This is a bit of a late response, but I thought I'd chime in since my research is all about mycorrhizae and the rhizosphere. A lot of what has been said here is correct, but some of it lies in the realm of speculation. It is important to note that symbioses with mycorrhizae are not permanent and depends on environmental conditions. One of such conditions is the availability of two essential nutrients, nitrogen and phosphorous. Plants are often limited by these two nutrients, and by associating with fungi or bacteria, they are able to more efficiently gather these nutrients in the soil. To get these nutrients, plants will need to trade photosynthetic carbon for them. When these nutrients are available in excess, such as in fertilization, there is no longer a need for plants to continue the expensive trading partnership and the symbiosis thus dissolves. What this means is that choose either or. If you're going to fertilize, don't bother with mycorrhizae. If you're adding mycorrhizae, you don't need to fertilize as often. But eventually your nutrients in the pot will run out and mycorrhizae will no longer be of any help. Pathogenic fungi and bacteria are even more important to consider when growing plants. That's why we have spent so much money developing chemicals to kill them. As mentioned before, knocking down pathogen load is more important than sterilization. It is becoming more clear that a ratio between good and bad soil microbes will determine success when growing plants. This is an on-going field of research which we may see more useful results in the near future. Nhu On Sat, Feb 6, 2016 at 12:37 PM, penstemon wrote: > >Good information about the phosphorus, thanks! I'll add that soil > biodiversity is better with a pH of 7 or higher, as that is what it takes > for bacteria to flourish. Bacteria are at the base of the food web, eaten > by nearly every other soil-dwelling microorganism, so they are kind of > important. > > Sure. Someone told me that adding mycorrhizae to garden soil can’t hurt, > though for some plants the addition might have no effect, or it could be > the wrong kind (ecto-, arbuscular, or arbutoid), or the wrong species in > the case of a plant which is colonized by only one species, or the > mycorrhizae could be dead on arrival. > There seems to be some evidence that species dependent of ectomycorrhizae > can survive under, say, manzanitas (arbutoid), but whether or not > calochortus, which I assume are associated with arbuscular mycrorrhizae > (the most common type) would survive in a similar situation is another > story. (There’s a short paper on this subject you can download if you > Google “manzanita mycorrhizae” and then “Download Emily’s synopsis...”) > Bob Nold > Denver, Colorado, USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From samarak@gizmoworks.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 22:17:12 -0800 Message-Id: <56B6D574.3030905@gizmoworks.com> From: Steve Marak Subject: SX5 Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 23:26:12 -0600 Please read all the notes below before ordering, as each SX is slightly different. The items below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. Notes for SX 5: 1) Items new for SX5 start at 720. 2) You may also order any items from SX1-4 that are still available (items 401 to 719). Please put all items you want into a SINGLE LIST, regardless of which SX they are from. 3) SX1 and SX2 items (401-581) are now half price ($1.00 US per packet). 4) Please include your current shipping address (even if you've provided it previously). If you are interested in obtaining some of these items, please email me PRIVATELY at: mailto:samarak@gizmoworks.com Please put "SX5" in the subject line. This will help ensure your email goes into the right folder. Please include your shipping address (even if you've provided it previously). It is better to FORWARD this email to the above address rather than attempting to REPLY to it as your reply will probably go to the entire PBS list, and since my mail program will sort private replies ahead of replies to the list, this will cause your request to be processed later. As requests are filled first-come-first-served, replying to the list will reduce your chance of receiving items that are in short supply. You may request 1 or 2 packets of any item. Specify the quantity (1 or 2) and the item number. Please include your shipping address (even if you've provided it previously). When you receive your seeds, you will find enclosed a statement of what you owe the PBS treasurer ($2.00 US per packet, $1.00 US per packet for SX1 and SX2 items, + shipping). Many of you are members of the PBS mailing list, which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. ONLY PBS MEMBERS MAY PARTICIPATE IN THIS SX. If you are not a member, please consider joining so that you can participate in future offers such as this one. Go to: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/ for membership information. Thank you to all of our generous donors! Steve 401 Albuca tenuifolia (A. shawii) UU 402 Albuca sp., tall, white, evergreen UU 403 Allium cernuum 'Hidcote' UU 405 Allium sp., ex Chiapas NN 411 Canna paniculata ? UU 424 Freesia sp., mixed, OP KC 432 Habranthus tubispathus NN 433 Habranthus tubispathus PS 434 Habranthus tubispathus, OP, ex BX 355 KC 442 Lachenalia latifolia* (Lachenalia nervosa) RH 443 Lilium formosanum, short, ex Taiwan JL 454 Othonna perfoliata RHE 456 Phalocallis coelestis JL 460 Rhadamanthus (Drimia) sp. aff. Platyphyllus RH 462 Romulea minutiflora* RHE 466 Tulbaghia acutiloba, Devon NN 471 Albuca tenuifolia (A. shawii), green tufts on flower stalk JT 472 Allium albopilosum (A. cristophii) 'Star of Persia' FT 473 Allium flavum FL 474 Allium flavum ex Bulgaria BJ 475 Allium subhirsutum KS 476 Allium ramosum, 30 in, fragrant JW Blooms around July 4 here in Kansas City. White flowers with a very nice floral fragrance about 30 in tall. The name has some dispute, but the description is distinct. 477 Allium senescens, 14 in., pink RD 482 Arisaema sp.? FL 484 Asphodeline lutea FL 486 Bellevalia dubia MSI 501 Calochortus venustus, white/yellow CE ex Contra Costa Co., CA 505 Chlorogalum pomeridianum MSI 508 Dierama pulcherrimum FL 509 Dierama 'Snowbells' FL 511 Dracunculus vulgaris JW This has been hardy in Kansas City for a decade plus in full sun and light shade. 518 Habranthus tubispathus FL 519 Habranthus tubispathus PS 522 Hesperantha oligantha MSI 524 Hosta sieboldii FL 530 Libertia chilensis FL 534 Lilium hyb., Aurelian RdV Div 6, 'Beautiul Victoria' x 'Tropical Garden', F2 535 Lilium longiflorum, hyb. UU hand pollinated. I bought the bulbs in Poland (yet another former communist country with a longstanding gardening tradition) A good form with large waxy white trumpets with good scent. After the first flowering it produced a second shoot but the flowers aborted due to bad weather. 540 Lilium martagon hyb. B RdV 542 Lilium regale, white back RdV 543 Lilium, mixed Aurelians RdV mostly crosses that are too few to offer a reasonable packet, but also include missing or faded tags, - lots of good stuff. 545 Moraea polyanthos RW 546 Moraea tripetala RW 548 Moraea vegeta, tan RW 553 Ornithogalum candicans KS parent bulb from Cistus Nursery 554 Ornithogalum magnum FL 555 Ornithogalum saundersiae BH 556 Ornithogalum viridiflorum FL 558 Paradisea lusitanica FL 559 Prospero autumnale KS (Scilla autumnalis) parent bulbs grown from seeds from PBS 560 Prospero autumnale RdV this blooms in August after sending up grasslike leaves 565 Sinningia cardinalis, red DK 568 Sisyrinchium bellum FL 570 Tigridia pavonia 'Sunset in Oz' RdV 571 Tradescantia boliviana UU 572 Triteleia ixioides subsp. scabra MSI 573 Tulipa tarda FL 574 Wachendorfia thyrsiflora FL 582 Acis autumnalis JM 583 Adenium "roseum" (A. obesum, red?), OP KC 584 Agapanthus 'Midnight Blue' Headbourne Hybrid UU * 585 Agapanthus 'Navy Blue' MS 586 Albuca 'Blue Curls' PS 587 Albuca bracteata, OP KC 588 Albuca namaquensis RdV * 589 Albuca suaveolens RdV * 590 Albuca suaveolens, ex Swartz, OP KC 591 Allium sphaerocephalon, OP KC 592 Allium tangutium? JM 593 Babiana 'Purple Haze', ex Wickham, OP KC 594 Babiana stricta, OP KC 595 Bletilla striata MS 596 Cardiocrinum cordatum JMc 597 Cyrtanthus brachyscyphus BH 598 Dichelostemma multiflorum ex. Akimoff RdV 599 Dierama dracomontanum MS * 600 Ennealophus euryandrus AN 601 Eucomis bicolor MSI 602 Ferraria crispa A, OP KC 603 Ferraria crispa B, ex Telos, OP KC 604 Ferraria crispa, dark, ex Telos, OP KC 605 Ferraria crispa, OP KC 606 Ferraria densipunctulata, OP KC 607 Ferraria divaricata, OP KC 608 Freesia grandiflora PS 609 Freesia laxa ssp. azurea PS 610 Freesia laxa, OP KC 611 Freesia laxa, red, OP KC 612 Freesia viridiflora DF 613 Gelasine elongata IC 615 Gladiolus communis (ssp. byzantinus) MS 618 Habranthus xfloryi, green throat IC 620 Habranthus tubispathus, OP KC 621 Hippeastrum 'Red Garden' FB 622 Hippeastrum 'Blue Dream', OP KC 623 Hippeastrum 'Desire' KC 624 Hippeastrum 'Minerva' KC 625 Hippeastrum 'Orange Sovereign', OP KC 627 Hippeastrum 'Striped Parade' KC 628 Iris tectorum JM 629 Iris tenax JM 630 Lachenalia contaminata PS 631 Lachenalia mutabilis DF 632 Lachenalia orchioides var. glaucina DF 633 Lachenalia pendula (L. bulbifera, L. bifolia) DF 634 Lachenalia reflexa AT 635 Lachenalia relexa PS 636 Lilium, white tetra trumpet UU * 637 Massonia echinata AT 638 Massonia pustulata AT 639 Massonia pustulata, OP KC 640 Melasphaerula ramosa, OP KC 641 Moraea polystachya DF 642 Moraea polystachya, ex Swartz, OP KC 643 Nothoscordum ostenii, white, OP KC 644 Othonna aff. perfoliata RdV * 645 Pelargonium appendiculatum RJ 646 Polyxena (Lachenalia) corymbosa RJ 648 Sisyrinchium idahoense JM 649 Tigridia pavonia, white IC 650 Veltheimia capensis DF 654 Zephyranthes drummondii RdV * 660 Albuca collina, ex Willowmore DH 661 Albuca pulchra, ex Namibia MSW 662 Albuca sp.?, ex Plattenberg Bay MSW 663 Allium amethystinum RdV ex BX 252, 36" tall, red-purple drumstick 664 Allium ascalonicum RdV ex Alan Edwards, 20" tall, white 665 Allium ramosum RdV white, 20 - 24 " tall 666 Asarum marmoratum AMN light required for germination; cold stratification for 12 weeks 667 Babiana tubulosa KS 668 Bulbine torta, ex Sutherland DH harv. 4/01 669 Calochortus luteus, rust hash marks JB 670 Calochortus luteus, rust spot and hash marks JB 671 Calochortus superbus, white/lilac JB 672 Calochortus venustus, white JB 673 Camassia leichtlinii, dark blue KS 674 Dichelostemma capitatum JB 675 Dichelostemma capitatum TO 676 Dichelostemma ida-maia JB 677 Dichelostemma multiflorum JB 678 Dodecatheon hendersonii TO 680 Ferraria crispa subsp. nortieri, OP JWI 681 Ferraria crispa, OP JWI 682 Ferraria densepunctulata, OP JWI 683 Ferraria uncinata, OP JWI 684 Freesia alba MSW 685 Freesia laxa, orange MGW 686 Freesia occidentalis MSW 688 Iris chrysophylla TO 689 Iris planifolia, ex W. of Loule DH 690 Ixia maculata KS 691 Lachenalia comptonii DH harv. 5/99 692 Lachenalia mediana MSW 693 Lachenalia orthopetala MSW 695 Lachenalia pygmaea MSW 696 Lachenalia reflexa MSW 697 Lachenalia viridiflora MSW 698 Lilium candidum, OP x self DH harv. 9/14 699 Manfreda maculosa MSW 700 Manfreda sileri MSW 701 Manfreda undulata, 'Chocolate Chips' MSW 702 Massonia echinata? MSW 703 Massonia pustulata?, came as M. depressa MSW 704 Massonia cf. pustulata, ex NARGS, striped MSW 705 Massonia echinata, ex Mesa Gardens MSW 706 Massonia sp.?, ex Addo MSW 707 Moraea bipartita MSW 709 Ornithogalum concordianum (Albuca concordiana), ex Matjiesfontein DH 710 Ornithogalum reverchonii, ex Grazalena DH ~2013 711 Pamianthe peruviana PM 712 Pelargonium incrassatum, OP DH 713 Triteleia hyacinthina JB 714 Triteleia ixioides JB 715 Triteleia laxa JB 716 Veltheimia bracteata RT 717 Veltheimia bracteata TE 718 xHippeastrelia CM 719 Zigadenus fremontii (Toxicoscordion fremontii), ex Riverside Co, CA DH 720 Albuca cf. echinosperma, ex Tulbagh, 2015 DH 721 Albuca cf. maxima, (A. canadensis, Ornithogalum maximum)ex. Kamiesberg, 2003 DH 722 Allium hyalinum MSI 723 Alstroemeria angustifolia JM 724 Arum apulum FC 725 Arum pictum JM 726 Arum purpureospathum FC 727 Begonia boliviensis, 2011 DH 728 Brimeura amethystina TL 729 Brodiaea californica, pink CE 730 Brodiaea californica, violet CE 731 Brodiaea californica, white CE 732 Calochortus amabilis RW 733 Calochortus amabilis, ex Napa Co. KM 734 Calochortus clavatus var. gracilis JM 735 Calochortus fimbriatus CE 736 Calochortus howellii JM 737 Calochortus luteus, ex Santa Barbara Co. KM 738 Calochortus luteus, ex. Colusa Co. RW 739 Calochortus pulchellus, ex Contra Costa Co. KM 740 Calochortus simulans, ex SLO Co. KM 741 Calochortus splendens, deep purple, vigorous CE 742 Calochortus striatus KM 743 Calochortus uniflorus RW 744 Calochortus venustus CE ex Alameda Co., vigorous, white outside, two red spots inside (one strong, one faint, striated), some yellow markings 745 Calochortus venustus CE ex Contra Costa Co., blush outside, white inside, strong red spots, some yellow 746 Cyclamen cilicium f. album JM 747 Cyclamen graecum FC 748 Cyclamen graecum JM 749 Dandya thadhowardii, 2012 DH 750 Dichelostemma ida-maia JM 751 Dierama pulcherrimum 'Blackbird' TL 752 Dipcadi viride, ex Saudia Arabia DH 753 Freesia grandiflora (subsp. Grandiflora) TL 754 Galtonia candicans (Ornithogalum candicans), green/white RdV 755 Geissorhiza brehmii MSI 756 Gladiolus carmineus MSI 757 Habranthus brachyandrus CM 758 Habranthus magnoi RdV 759 Habranthus robustus RdV 760 Habranthus sp. ?, big pink flowers RdV 761 Habranthus sp., mixed CM 762 Hippeastrum modern white hybrid x H. striatum DH 763 Hyacinthoides hispanica subsp. algeriensis (H. cedretorum) FC 764 Hyacinthoides vincentina (H. mauritanica, Scilla vincentina), 2006 DH 765 Iris iberica subsp. lycotis FC 766 Iris acutiloba subsp. lineolata FC 767 Iris elegans FC 768 Iris paradoxa FC 769 Iris setosa, 8in, blue, needs moisture RdV 770 Iris tingitana FC 771 Lachenalia polyphylla, ex SW Cape: Gouda District, 2000 DH 772 Lachenalia splendida, ex Bittfontein; Lavranos, 2001 DH 773 Leucocoryne hybrids MSI 774 Leucocoryne vittata, 2003 DH 775 Libertia caerulescens (L. sessiliflora), ex Archibald PH 776 Lilium candidum, 2013 DH 777 Lilium ledebourii, ex Archibald PH 778 Lilium pardalinum JM 779 Lilium pardalinum subsp. shastense TL 780 Lilium pardalinum, ex Northwest Native Seeds PH 781 Moraea polyanthos RW 782 Moraea vespertina RW 783 Moraea villosa RW 784 Moraea villosa, ivory blue RW 785 Narcissus miniatus (N. obsoletus), ex Algeciras, Spain, 2011 DH 786 Nomocharis aperta, ex Archibald PH 787 Nomocharis mairei (N. pardanthina), ex Archibald PH 788 Nothoscordum castilloi, 2012 (N. gracile) DH 789 Nothoscordum minarum (N. montividense subsp. minarum), 2006 DH 790 Nothoscordum montevidense, 2006 DH 791 Ornithogalum concordianum (Albuca concordiana), 2012 DH 792 Ornithogalum hispidum, ex. Citrusdal, 2012 DH 793 Ornithogalum longibracteatum (Albuca bracteata) BH 794 Ornithogalum umbellatum, ex Grazalema, Spain; Lavranos, 2007 DH 795 Paeonia cambessedesii JM 796 Paeonia daurica subsp. mlokosewitschii JM 797 Paeonia mascula, ex Sardinia FC 798 Prospero autumnale RdV grass-like leaves stay green all fall-winter till spring, then go dormant in early summer and send up flowers in July-August before new leaves emerge 799 Scilla monophyllos TL 800 Triteleia ixioides, ex. Salinas Co. JM 801 Triteleia laxa, "giant form", ex Mariposa Co. JM 802 Triteleia peduncularis JM 803 Triteleia peduncularis MSI 804 Tulipa sprengeri JM 805 Veltheimia bracteata FC 806 Veltheimia bracteata TL 807 Veltheimia bracteata var. rosalba FC 808 Zephyranthes citrina VD 809 Zephyranthes drummondii FC 810 Zephyranthes 'Labuffarosa' crosses CM 811 Zephyranthes macrosiphon, good flowerer CM Anne McNeil = AMN Ake Nordstrom = AN Angelo Procelli = AP Arnold Trachtenberg = AT Bob Hoel = BH Bill Hoffman = BHf Bill Janetos = BJ Bridget Wosczyna = BW Chris Elwell = CE Cynthia Mueller = CM Dave Boucher = DB Dee Foster = DF Dylan Hannon = DH Dennis Kramb = DK Fausto Ceni = FC Fred Biasella = FB Francisco Lopez = FL Fred Thorne = FT Giovanni Curci = GC Ina Crossley = IC Jim Barton = JB Jonathan Lubar = JL Jame McGary = JM Jim McKenney = JMc Joyce Miller = JMi Jim Waddick = JW Jim Wickman = JWI Karl Church = KC Kipp McMichael = KM Kathleen Sayce = KS Bill Hoffmann = BHf Makiko Goto-Widerman = MGW Mark McGee = MMG Maggie Soderstrom = MS Mary Sue Ittner = MSI Monica Swart = MSW Nhu Nguyen = NN Nick Plummer = NP Paul Matthews = PM Pamela Harlow = PH Pamela Slate = PS Rimmer de Vries = RdV Richard Haard = RHa Roy Herold = RH Ruth Jones = RJ Ray Talley = RT Robert Werra = RW Terry Laskiewicz = TL Tim Eck = TE Travis Owen = TO Uli Urban = UU Victor Dominguez = VD From enoster@hotmail.com Sat, 06 Feb 2016 22:17:12 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Inoculating bulbs? Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 22:12:35 -0800 Thanks Nhu, I was beginning to wonder why you haven't chimed in yet! During this whole discussion, I've been thinking about Hesperocallis, which of course reminded me of you. Were you studying the soil when you investigated those bulbs? Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From barbara@adamsranch.net Sun, 07 Feb 2016 00:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Barbara Adams" Subject: SX5 Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2016 07:28:40 +0000 I know way to much trying not to be a piggy. Please first all hippeastrum, paeonia, iris and begonia . Then what may be left. Thanks Barbara Adams . 565 Sinningia cardinalis, red DK 570 Tigridia pavonia 'Sunset in Oz' RdV 583 Adenium "roseum" (A. obesum, red?), OP KC 615 Gladiolus communis (ssp. byzantinus) MS 621 Hippeastrum 'Red Garden' FB 622 Hippeastrum 'Blue Dream', OP KC 623 Hippeastrum 'Desire' KC 624 Hippeastrum 'Minerva' KC 625 Hippeastrum 'Orange Sovereign', OP KC 627 Hippeastrum 'Striped Parade' KC 628 Iris tectorum JM 629 Iris tenax JM 649 Tigridia pavonia, white IC 654 Zephyranthes drummondii RdV * 688 Iris chrysophylla TO 689 Iris planifolia, ex W. of Loule DH 718 xHippeastrelia CM 723 Alstroemeria angustifolia JM 727 Begonia boliviensis, 2011 DH 753 Freesia grandiflora (subsp. Grandiflora) TL 756 Gladiolus carmineus MSI 762 Hippeastrum modern white hybrid x H. striatum DH 765 Iris iberica subsp. lycotis FC 766 Iris acutiloba subsp. lineolata FC 767 Iris elegans FC 768 Iris paradoxa FC 769 Iris setosa, 8in, blue, needs moisture RdV 770 Iris tingitana FC 776 Lilium candidum, 2013 DH 777 Lilium ledebourii, ex Archibald PH 778 Lilium pardalinum JM 779 Lilium pardalinum subsp. shastense TL 780 Lilium pardalinum, ex Northwest Native Seeds PH 795 Paeonia cambessedesii JM 796 Paeonia daurica subsp. mlokosewitschii JM 797 Paeonia mascula, ex Sardinia FC 808 Zephyranthes citrina VD 809 Zephyranthes drummondii FC 810 Zephyranthes 'Labuffarosa' crosses CM 811 Zephyranthes macrosiphon, good flowerer CM zone 9B Latrobe Ca ------ Original Message ------ From: "Steve Marak" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: 2/6/2016 9:26:12 PM Subject: [pbs] SX5 >Please read all the notes below before ordering, as each SX is slightly >different. > >The items below have been donated by our members and friends to be >shared. > >Notes for SX 5: > >1) Items new for SX5 start at 720. > >2) You may also order any items from SX1-4 that are still available >(items 401 to 719). > Please put all items you want into a SINGLE LIST, regardless of >which SX they are > from. > >3) SX1 and SX2 items (401-581) are now half price ($1.00 US per >packet). > >4) Please include your current shipping address (even if you've >provided it previously). > >If you are interested in obtaining some of these items, please email me >PRIVATELY at: > >mailto:samarak@gizmoworks.com > >Please put "SX5" in the subject line. This will help ensure your email >goes into the right >folder. Please include your shipping address (even if you've provided >it previously). > >It is better to FORWARD this email to the above address rather than >attempting to REPLY to it >as your reply will probably go to the entire PBS list, and since my >mail program will sort >private replies ahead of replies to the list, this will cause your >request to be processed >later. As requests are filled first-come-first-served, replying to the >list will reduce your >chance of receiving items that are in short supply. > >You may request 1 or 2 packets of any item. Specify the quantity (1 or >2) and the item number. >Please include your shipping address (even if you've provided it >previously). When you >receive your seeds, you will find enclosed a statement of what you owe >the PBS treasurer >($2.00 US per packet, $1.00 US per packet for SX1 and SX2 items, + >shipping). > >Many of you are members of the PBS mailing list, which is free, but are >not members of the >Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. ONLY PBS >MEMBERS MAY PARTICIPATE >IN THIS SX. If you are not a member, please consider joining so that >you can participate in >future offers such as this one. Go to: > >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/ > >for membership information. > >Thank you to all of our generous donors! > >Steve > >401 Albuca tenuifolia (A. shawii) UU >402 Albuca sp., tall, white, evergreen UU >403 Allium cernuum 'Hidcote' UU >405 Allium sp., ex Chiapas NN >411 Canna paniculata ? UU >424 Freesia sp., mixed, OP KC >432 Habranthus tubispathus NN >433 Habranthus tubispathus PS >434 Habranthus tubispathus, OP, ex BX 355 KC >442 Lachenalia latifolia* (Lachenalia nervosa) RH >443 Lilium formosanum, short, ex Taiwan JL >454 Othonna perfoliata RHE >456 Phalocallis coelestis JL >460 Rhadamanthus (Drimia) sp. aff. Platyphyllus RH >462 Romulea minutiflora* RHE >466 Tulbaghia acutiloba, Devon NN >471 Albuca tenuifolia (A. shawii), green tufts on flower stalk JT >472 Allium albopilosum (A. cristophii) 'Star of Persia' FT >473 Allium flavum FL >474 Allium flavum ex Bulgaria BJ >475 Allium subhirsutum KS >476 Allium ramosum, 30 in, fragrant JW Blooms around July >4 here in Kansas City. White flowers > with a very nice floral fragrance about 30 >in tall. The > name has some dispute, but the description >is distinct. >477 Allium senescens, 14 in., pink RD >482 Arisaema sp.? FL >484 Asphodeline lutea FL >486 Bellevalia dubia MSI >501 Calochortus venustus, white/yellow CE ex Contra Costa Co., >CA >505 Chlorogalum pomeridianum MSI >508 Dierama pulcherrimum FL >509 Dierama 'Snowbells' FL >511 Dracunculus vulgaris JW This has been hardy in >Kansas City for a decade plus in full > sun and light shade. >518 Habranthus tubispathus FL >519 Habranthus tubispathus PS >522 Hesperantha oligantha MSI >524 Hosta sieboldii FL >530 Libertia chilensis FL >534 Lilium hyb., Aurelian RdV Div 6, 'Beautiul >Victoria' x 'Tropical Garden', F2 >535 Lilium longiflorum, hyb. UU hand pollinated. I bought >the bulbs in Poland (yet another > former communist country with a >longstanding gardening tradition) > A good form with large waxy white trumpets >with good scent. > After the first flowering it produced a >second shoot but the > flowers aborted due to bad weather. >540 Lilium martagon hyb. B RdV >542 Lilium regale, white back RdV >543 Lilium, mixed Aurelians RdV mostly crosses that >are too few to offer a reasonable packet, > but also include missing or faded tags, - >lots of good stuff. >545 Moraea polyanthos RW >546 Moraea tripetala RW >548 Moraea vegeta, tan RW >553 Ornithogalum candicans KS parent bulb from Cistus >Nursery >554 Ornithogalum magnum FL >555 Ornithogalum saundersiae BH >556 Ornithogalum viridiflorum FL >558 Paradisea lusitanica FL >559 Prospero autumnale KS (Scilla autumnalis) parent >bulbs grown from seeds from PBS >560 Prospero autumnale RdV this blooms in August after >sending up grasslike leaves >565 Sinningia cardinalis, red DK >568 Sisyrinchium bellum FL >570 Tigridia pavonia 'Sunset in Oz' RdV >571 Tradescantia boliviana UU >572 Triteleia ixioides subsp. scabra MSI >573 Tulipa tarda FL >574 Wachendorfia thyrsiflora FL >582 Acis autumnalis JM >583 Adenium "roseum" (A. obesum, red?), OP KC >584 Agapanthus 'Midnight Blue' Headbourne Hybrid UU * >585 Agapanthus 'Navy Blue' MS >586 Albuca 'Blue Curls' PS >587 Albuca bracteata, OP KC >588 Albuca namaquensis RdV * >589 Albuca suaveolens RdV * >590 Albuca suaveolens, ex Swartz, OP KC >591 Allium sphaerocephalon, OP KC >592 Allium tangutium? JM >593 Babiana 'Purple Haze', ex Wickham, OP KC >594 Babiana stricta, OP KC >595 Bletilla striata MS >596 Cardiocrinum cordatum JMc >597 Cyrtanthus brachyscyphus BH >598 Dichelostemma multiflorum ex. Akimoff RdV >599 Dierama dracomontanum MS * >600 Ennealophus euryandrus AN >601 Eucomis bicolor MSI >602 Ferraria crispa A, OP KC >603 Ferraria crispa B, ex Telos, OP KC >604 Ferraria crispa, dark, ex Telos, OP KC >605 Ferraria crispa, OP KC >606 Ferraria densipunctulata, OP KC >607 Ferraria divaricata, OP KC >608 Freesia grandiflora PS >609 Freesia laxa ssp. azurea PS >610 Freesia laxa, OP KC >611 Freesia laxa, red, OP KC >612 Freesia viridiflora DF >613 Gelasine elongata IC >615 Gladiolus communis (ssp. byzantinus) MS >618 Habranthus xfloryi, green throat IC >620 Habranthus tubispathus, OP KC >621 Hippeastrum 'Red Garden' FB >622 Hippeastrum 'Blue Dream', OP KC >623 Hippeastrum 'Desire' KC >624 Hippeastrum 'Minerva' KC >625 Hippeastrum 'Orange Sovereign', OP KC >627 Hippeastrum 'Striped Parade' KC >628 Iris tectorum JM >629 Iris tenax JM >630 Lachenalia contaminata PS >631 Lachenalia mutabilis DF >632 Lachenalia orchioides var. glaucina DF >633 Lachenalia pendula (L. bulbifera, L. bifolia) DF >634 Lachenalia reflexa AT >635 Lachenalia relexa PS >636 Lilium, white tetra trumpet UU * >637 Massonia echinata AT >638 Massonia pustulata AT >639 Massonia pustulata, OP KC >640 Melasphaerula ramosa, OP KC >641 Moraea polystachya DF >642 Moraea polystachya, ex Swartz, OP KC >643 Nothoscordum ostenii, white, OP KC >644 Othonna aff. perfoliata RdV * >645 Pelargonium appendiculatum RJ >646 Polyxena (Lachenalia) corymbosa RJ >648 Sisyrinchium idahoense JM >649 Tigridia pavonia, white IC >650 Veltheimia capensis DF >654 Zephyranthes drummondii RdV * >660 Albuca collina, ex Willowmore DH >661 Albuca pulchra, ex Namibia MSW >662 Albuca sp.?, ex Plattenberg Bay MSW >663 Allium amethystinum RdV ex BX 252, 36" tall, >red-purple drumstick >664 Allium ascalonicum RdV ex Alan Edwards, 20" tall, >white >665 Allium ramosum RdV white, 20 - 24 " tall >666 Asarum marmoratum AMN light required for >germination; cold stratification for 12 weeks >667 Babiana tubulosa KS >668 Bulbine torta, ex Sutherland DH harv. 4/01 >669 Calochortus luteus, rust hash marks JB >670 Calochortus luteus, rust spot and hash marks JB >671 Calochortus superbus, white/lilac JB >672 Calochortus venustus, white JB >673 Camassia leichtlinii, dark blue KS >674 Dichelostemma capitatum JB >675 Dichelostemma capitatum TO >676 Dichelostemma ida-maia JB >677 Dichelostemma multiflorum JB >678 Dodecatheon hendersonii TO >680 Ferraria crispa subsp. nortieri, OP JWI >681 Ferraria crispa, OP JWI >682 Ferraria densepunctulata, OP JWI >683 Ferraria uncinata, OP JWI >684 Freesia alba MSW >685 Freesia laxa, orange MGW >686 Freesia occidentalis MSW >688 Iris chrysophylla TO >689 Iris planifolia, ex W. of Loule DH >690 Ixia maculata KS >691 Lachenalia comptonii DH harv. 5/99 >692 Lachenalia mediana MSW >693 Lachenalia orthopetala MSW >695 Lachenalia pygmaea MSW >696 Lachenalia reflexa MSW >697 Lachenalia viridiflora MSW >698 Lilium candidum, OP x self DH harv. 9/14 >699 Manfreda maculosa MSW >700 Manfreda sileri MSW >701 Manfreda undulata, 'Chocolate Chips' MSW >702 Massonia echinata? MSW >703 Massonia pustulata?, came as M. depressa MSW >704 Massonia cf. pustulata, ex NARGS, striped MSW >705 Massonia echinata, ex Mesa Gardens MSW >706 Massonia sp.?, ex Addo MSW >707 Moraea bipartita MSW >709 Ornithogalum concordianum (Albuca concordiana), ex >Matjiesfontein DH >710 Ornithogalum reverchonii, ex Grazalena DH ~2013 >711 Pamianthe peruviana PM >712 Pelargonium incrassatum, OP DH >713 Triteleia hyacinthina JB >714 Triteleia ixioides JB >715 Triteleia laxa JB >716 Veltheimia bracteata RT >717 Veltheimia bracteata TE >718 xHippeastrelia CM >719 Zigadenus fremontii (Toxicoscordion fremontii), ex Riverside Co, >CA DH >720 Albuca cf. echinosperma, ex Tulbagh, 2015 DH >721 Albuca cf. maxima, (A. canadensis, Ornithogalum maximum)ex. >Kamiesberg, 2003 DH >722 Allium hyalinum MSI >723 Alstroemeria angustifolia JM >724 Arum apulum FC >725 Arum pictum JM >726 Arum purpureospathum FC >727 Begonia boliviensis, 2011 DH >728 Brimeura amethystina TL >729 Brodiaea californica, pink CE >730 Brodiaea californica, violet CE >731 Brodiaea californica, white CE >732 Calochortus amabilis RW >733 Calochortus amabilis, ex Napa Co. KM >734 Calochortus clavatus var. gracilis JM >735 Calochortus fimbriatus CE >736 Calochortus howellii JM >737 Calochortus luteus, ex Santa Barbara Co. KM >738 Calochortus luteus, ex. Colusa Co. RW >739 Calochortus pulchellus, ex Contra Costa Co. KM >740 Calochortus simulans, ex SLO Co. KM >741 Calochortus splendens, deep purple, vigorous CE >742 Calochortus striatus KM >743 Calochortus uniflorus RW >744 Calochortus venustus CE ex Alameda Co., vigorous, >white outside, two red spots > inside (one strong, one faint, striated), >some yellow markings >745 Calochortus venustus CE ex Contra Costa Co., blush >outside, white inside, strong red > spots, some yellow >746 Cyclamen cilicium f. album JM >747 Cyclamen graecum FC >748 Cyclamen graecum JM >749 Dandya thadhowardii, 2012 DH >750 Dichelostemma ida-maia JM >751 Dierama pulcherrimum 'Blackbird' TL >752 Dipcadi viride, ex Saudia Arabia DH >753 Freesia grandiflora (subsp. Grandiflora) TL >754 Galtonia candicans (Ornithogalum candicans), green/white RdV >755 Geissorhiza brehmii MSI >756 Gladiolus carmineus MSI >757 Habranthus brachyandrus CM >758 Habranthus magnoi RdV >759 Habranthus robustus RdV >760 Habranthus sp. ?, big pink flowers RdV >761 Habranthus sp., mixed CM >762 Hippeastrum modern white hybrid x H. striatum DH >763 Hyacinthoides hispanica subsp. algeriensis (H. cedretorum) FC >764 Hyacinthoides vincentina (H. mauritanica, Scilla vincentina), >2006 DH >765 Iris iberica subsp. lycotis FC >766 Iris acutiloba subsp. lineolata FC >767 Iris elegans FC >768 Iris paradoxa FC >769 Iris setosa, 8in, blue, needs moisture RdV >770 Iris tingitana FC >771 Lachenalia polyphylla, ex SW Cape: Gouda District, 2000 DH >772 Lachenalia splendida, ex Bittfontein; Lavranos, 2001 DH >773 Leucocoryne hybrids MSI >774 Leucocoryne vittata, 2003 DH >775 Libertia caerulescens (L. sessiliflora), ex Archibald PH >776 Lilium candidum, 2013 DH >777 Lilium ledebourii, ex Archibald PH >778 Lilium pardalinum JM >779 Lilium pardalinum subsp. shastense TL >780 Lilium pardalinum, ex Northwest Native Seeds PH >781 Moraea polyanthos RW >782 Moraea vespertina RW >783 Moraea villosa RW >784 Moraea villosa, ivory blue RW >785 Narcissus miniatus (N. obsoletus), ex Algeciras, Spain, 2011 >DH >786 Nomocharis aperta, ex Archibald PH >787 Nomocharis mairei (N. pardanthina), ex Archibald PH >788 Nothoscordum castilloi, 2012 (N. gracile) DH >789 Nothoscordum minarum (N. montividense subsp. minarum), 2006 >DH >790 Nothoscordum montevidense, 2006 DH >791 Ornithogalum concordianum (Albuca concordiana), 2012 DH >792 Ornithogalum hispidum, ex. Citrusdal, 2012 DH >793 Ornithogalum longibracteatum (Albuca bracteata) BH >794 Ornithogalum umbellatum, ex Grazalema, Spain; Lavranos, 2007 >DH >795 Paeonia cambessedesii JM >796 Paeonia daurica subsp. mlokosewitschii JM >797 Paeonia mascula, ex Sardinia FC >798 Prospero autumnale RdV grass-like leaves stay >green all fall-winter till spring, > then go dormant in early summer and send up >flowers in July-August > before new leaves emerge >799 Scilla monophyllos TL >800 Triteleia ixioides, ex. Salinas Co. JM >801 Triteleia laxa, "giant form", ex Mariposa Co. JM >802 Triteleia peduncularis JM >803 Triteleia peduncularis MSI >804 Tulipa sprengeri JM >805 Veltheimia bracteata FC >806 Veltheimia bracteata TL >807 Veltheimia bracteata var. rosalba FC >808 Zephyranthes citrina VD >809 Zephyranthes drummondii FC >810 Zephyranthes 'Labuffarosa' crosses CM >811 Zephyranthes macrosiphon, good flowerer CM > > >Anne McNeil = AMN >Ake Nordstrom = AN >Angelo Procelli = AP >Arnold Trachtenberg = AT >Bob Hoel = BH >Bill Hoffman = BHf >Bill Janetos = BJ >Bridget Wosczyna = BW >Chris Elwell = CE >Cynthia Mueller = CM >Dave Boucher = DB >Dee Foster = DF >Dylan Hannon = DH >Dennis Kramb = DK >Fausto Ceni = FC >Fred Biasella = FB >Francisco Lopez = FL >Fred Thorne = FT >Giovanni Curci = GC >Ina Crossley = IC >Jim Barton = JB >Jonathan Lubar = JL >Jame McGary = JM >Jim McKenney = JMc >Joyce Miller = JMi >Jim Waddick = JW >Jim Wickman = JWI >Karl Church = KC >Kipp McMichael = KM >Kathleen Sayce = KS >Bill Hoffmann = BHf >Makiko Goto-Widerman = MGW >Mark McGee = MMG >Maggie Soderstrom = MS >Mary Sue Ittner = MSI >Monica Swart = MSW >Nhu Nguyen = NN >Nick Plummer = NP >Paul Matthews = PM >Pamela Harlow = PH >Pamela Slate = PS >Rimmer de Vries = RdV >Richard Haard = RHa >Roy Herold = RH >Ruth Jones = RJ >Ray Talley = RT >Robert Werra = RW >Terry Laskiewicz = TL >Tim Eck = TE >Travis Owen = TO >Uli Urban = UU >Victor Dominguez = VD > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From barbara@adamsranch.net Sun, 07 Feb 2016 00:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Barbara Adams" Subject: SX5 Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2016 07:39:00 +0000 Sorry about my order going to the list . I do apologize. Sent with out checking. Barbara zone 9B Latrobe Ca From enoster@hotmail.com Sun, 07 Feb 2016 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Crocus + bees = Spring (screw the calendar) Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2016 11:56:27 -0800 The crocuses have been able to open for at least a few hours most days now, and honeybees have taken advantage of the opportunity to gather additional resources. Mostly at my work, where last Autumn I planted <700 corms courtesy of the plant (by which I mean my work, a factory). At home, if they haven't been eaten or trampled, I expect bees are into those too. http://www.amateuranthecologist.com/2016/02/new-growth-early-bee-plants.html So it's Spring, screw it. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Sun, 07 Feb 2016 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <56B7C3DF.3070703@t-online.de> From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: inoculation Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2016 23:23:27 +0100 Dear All, With a certain delay, sorry about it, I would like to share my personal experience with naturally soil born microfauna und microflora, this is not the result of any scientific research: For many years, and more every year, I have been using my own garden compost which is made of all organic waste from my garden and kitchen with the exception of very invasive seed bearing weeds, root-weeds die off. I add small amounts of horse manure, some shredded wood, small amounts of cinder from my log burner and some handfuls of finely ground basaltic rock (powder-fine) and finely sieved clay if I have the latter. No lime added. This compost is left one year to accumulate, then shifted the old fashioned way inside out and upside down into another compartment of my compost place and left another year to settle and rot on. It is watered in dry weather. This compost is used without anything else added to repot my bulbs and summer pots in spring, the greedy ones like many Aroids or Hedychiums get some extra balanced mineral fertilizer with it into the pot. I started in a way reluctantly because I did not know how nutrient rich this compost would be, also I was worried about fungal attacks or other microbiological problem. NONE of this happened. NEVER. I am sure that this natual compost is very rich in all sorts of micro-life and I am convinced that it is this diversity that prevents disease. So gradually I increase the use of pure compost in pots even with more demanding plants, and even with those that do not tolerate high nutrient levels like some Impatiens species: no failure so far. Same with my garden soil. I use this compost when I dig the vegetable plot(I garden on sandy soil) as well as for mulching permanent plantings, no disease. The soil in the vegetable section in the garden has become something like a soft yeast-dough after many years of organic compost gardening. The voles like it as it is so nice to tunnel.... For epiphytic cacti, philodendron and fine rooted orchids I prepare another compost made of shredded wood, lawn clippings and fresh horse manure only, let it rot at least one year and mix this with Perlite or Vermiculite and Seramis (baked clay granules) equal parts. It is not stable for long term plantings (still more stable than pure garden compost) but works wonders especially in epiphytic cacti. Here I get slightly off topic but I am telling this because in this compost I often find fungal mycelium, even small mushrooms pop up from time to time but with definetely less damage to the plants I would have in commercial compost. Most plants are fertilized with a balanced liquid commercial fertilizer as summer goes on. The result is always stable and long lasting as the compost seems to store and release the nutrients very well. There are two disadvantages using this natural compost in pots: it contains may viable seeds and the pots must be weeded 2 or 3 times during summer. The other disadvantage is that it being pure organic matter it keeps settling in the pot and will not last for more than one season. (The Vermiculite/Seramis/Perlite makes it much more stable) It shrinks in the pot and by only topping it up in spring it forms a kind of sluge in the bottom of the pot which I do not like. All my bigger pots are attached to an automatic watering system that waters each pot individually on demand and this sludge might obstruct the drainage holes. I do not use this garden compost for sowing seed or very small plants because of the load of seeds in the compost, I would find it too difficult to distinguish the wanted seedlings or plantlets from the undesired ones (nice suprises sometimes, though). To do this it means that I do not buy anything, no Mycorrhiza (I tried but found no difference in what I do anyway) so this is a very cheap and environmental friendly method of saving expensive commercial bagged compost which can be VERY unpredictable, even in good brands. (I do buy bagged compost for long term potted plants because it remains stable for many years) It springs to my mind that Janis Ruksans has a passage in his book 'Buried Treasures' where he describes desaster after soil-sterilisation. After he switched back to his well worked non sterilized soil the problem stopped. Hope this gives you some ideas about my 'inoculation' Uli From mikerumm@gmail.com Sun, 07 Feb 2016 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mike Rummerfield Subject: Crocus + bees = Spring (screw the calendar) Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2016 16:34:20 -0800 A sunny day for a change. Temperature above 50℉, the temperature at which the honey bees will begin foraging here. Crocus opened!. Never seen so many honey bees on the crocus at one time. The combined hum was impressive. I guess they're hungry after a winter in the hive. Galanthus is their second choice. So I have hybrids of both genera, respectively, scattered about. They don't seem to be particularly attracted to the cyclamen. Some years recently, scarcely a bee to be seen. Glad to see my friends out and about. Late summer, they go mad over Sedum "Autumn Joy", along with any number of other bees, and a particular, unnamed moth. Mike Washington state On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 11:56 AM, Travis O wrote: > The crocuses have been able to open for at least a few hours most days > now, and honeybees have taken advantage of the opportunity to gather > additional resources. Mostly at my work, where last Autumn I planted <700 > corms courtesy of the plant (by which I mean my work, a factory). At home, > if they haven't been eaten or trampled, I expect bees are into those too. > > > http://www.amateuranthecologist.com/2016/02/new-growth-early-bee-plants.html > > So it's Spring, screw it. > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Mon, 08 Feb 2016 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <56B902A7.5040002@t-online.de> From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: Albuca Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2016 22:03:35 +0100 Dear All, When I looked through the new SX-5, therer are quite a few Albuca seeds on offer. I like Albuca but I cannot handle winter growing/flowering ones. I took quite some time to look up the names given but the pictures that appear in the internet are often so very different for the same species that the identity of the plant cannot be found. And most of the time the growth pattern is not even mentioned. Even the origin often does not help with the very diverse South African Climate. So, can those who donated seed perhaps advise and help me which ones on offer would be summer growing ones? Which colour the flowers would have? Or which ones I should try to find? I grow and like A. shawii/tenuifolia which is a very nice plant. (An evergreen plant with summer flowers would be a compromise, I have sent in seeds of a tall white one of that evergreen kind I do not know the identiy of) My "Dream-Albuca" would be a yellow flowering tall (taller than A. shawii) summer growing one with a dry winter dormancy. To add an extra bonus scent would be appreciated. Is there such perfect thing? Uli From loriandtomquesnoy@gmail.com Mon, 08 Feb 2016 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Lori And Tom Quesnoy Subject: (no subject) Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2016 13:12:34 -0800 Plz take me off the mailing list. Thank you From pelarg@aol.com Mon, 08 Feb 2016 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <152c34ec182-2c39-5eb7@webprd-m32.mail.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Albuca Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2016 18:54:24 -0500 Hi Uli, Albuca shawii, in case you haven't tried it, is perfectly winter hardy, it grows outside here with no issues even though the bulbs do not go deep. Some other summer growing ones (may or may not be on the list) would be humilis, setosa, and also the 3 near relatives in the former genus Galtonia (some lump all of the Albucas, Galtonias, and Ornithogalums into Ornithogalum) and Ornithogalum saundersoniae, which makes a great summer pot plant and likes to be bone dry inside during the winter. Most Albuca spp are winter growing from the Cape, some are evergreen like batteniana. Ernie DeMarie Briarcliff Manor NY USA where we had light snow and are expecting an arctic blast this weekend that may send us into single digit (F) territory at night for the second time this winter, which otherwise hasnt been that bad. Unfortunately we are not getting snow cover before such drops. Nonetheless I saw a couple of Eranthis and a yellow crocus in my gardens this past week. -----Original Message----- From: Johannes Ulrich Urban To: Pacifib Bulb Society messages Sent: Mon, Feb 8, 2016 6:31 pm Subject: [pbs] Albuca Dear All, When I looked through the new SX-5, therer are quite a few Albuca seeds on offer. I like Albuca but I cannot handle winter growing/flowering ones. I took quite some time to look up the names given but the pictures that appear in the internet are often so very different for the same species that the identity of the plant cannot be found. And most of the time the growth pattern is not even mentioned. Even the origin often does not help with the very diverse South African Climate. So, can those who donated seed perhaps advise and help me which ones on offer would be summer growing ones? Which colour the flowers would have? Or which ones I should try to find? I grow and like A. shawii/tenuifolia which is a very nice plant. (An evergreen plant with summer flowers would be a compromise, I have sent in seeds of a tall white one of that evergreen kind I do not know the identiy of) My "Dream-Albuca" would be a yellow flowering tall (taller than A. shawii) summer growing one with a dry winter dormancy. To add an extra bonus scent would be appreciated. Is there such perfect thing? Uli From eciton@utexas.edu Mon, 08 Feb 2016 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Monica Swartz Subject: Summer Albuca Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2016 21:29:07 -0600 Hi Uli, The biggest summer growing Albuca I grow is easily A. pulchra (sx #661). It likes it pretty dry so I use lots of pumice and an enormous unglazed clay pot. The inflorescence is two meters tall each year with mostly green and cream colored upwards facing flowers. The top of the inflorescence has a big brush of green threads (stipules?) like a crazy top knot of hair. With the big erect bluish leaves with speckles at the base, this is a dramatic plant that gets attention. It's dry winter dormant. Keep watch for Albuca abyssinica and A. virens. I'll try to send some to the bx this year again. Both are medium-large (but only half the size of A. pulchra) summer growing/winter dormant species that put on a good show. Recent BX offerings have had seed of the evergreen A. nelsoni, which is a good size plant. However, all of these summer growers don't have yellow flowers. The only summer grower I have with yellow flowers is A. tortuosa, but it has never set seed for me or offset in 20+ years. Perhaps someone else has better luck with this medium sized species and can share? Also, grab an Albuca crispa if you ever get a chance, it's my favorite summer Albuca and the closest summer gets to the crazy leaves of the winter-growers. monica From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Tue, 09 Feb 2016 02:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <82264459.2291289.1455011831390.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Summer Albuca Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 09:57:11 +0000 (UTC) Albuca nelsonii is easy here (UK). Large  clumps of scaly bulbs, succulent foliage and flowers stems 2-3' tall. Pendant flowers, white and green, with a strong scent. Almond like from memory, or maybe cyanide like if you are a chemist. Increases far too readily for me as I can't get rid of them and have too little room that is frost free. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From xerantheum@gmail.com Tue, 09 Feb 2016 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Summer Albuca Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 10:35:35 -0800 Albuca tortuosa is one of my favorite summer growing species. It's mostly evergreen, produces yellow, somewhat fragrant flowers. It can get large, but not unruly. It almost fits into Uli's criteria of a perfect Albuca for him. Monica, I have had success pollinating this species. I used the microwave method, taking off a little pollen, microwaving it for 15 seconds, then mix with fresh pollen and pollinate several times throughout the lifespan of the flower. It made pods and now I have a near mature few plants. I recorded that success on the wiki page: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Albuca_tortuosa Nhu On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 1:57 AM, Brian Whyer wrote: > Albuca nelsonii is easy here (UK). Large clumps of scaly bulbs, succulent > foliage and flowers stems 2-3' tall. Pendant flowers, white and green, with > a strong scent. Almond like from memory, or maybe cyanide like if you are a > chemist. Increases far too readily for me as I can't get rid of them and > have too little room that is frost free. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 10 Feb 2016 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <56BB7D0E.1050501@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Help with PBS database Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 10:10:22 -0800 Hi all, I hope there is someone reading this who is expert in using Excel. I use a different database program, but from time to time I supply membership lists to the treasurer and BX manager in Excel. When I export the records to Excel, there is a problem. The members' surnames appear in Column A, and the first names in Column B. When two members have the same surname, Excel drops the second record. This doesn't happen when I export the records to rtf or Word. Is there a way of making Excel accept records with identical data in Column A? Thanks in advance, Jane McGary Membership Coordcinator, PBS From brenna.green@gmail.com Wed, 10 Feb 2016 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Brenna Green Subject: Help with PBS database Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 12:30:25 -0800 Jane, This is more likely a problem with your database program's export to excel function, unfortunately. If you have the option to export to CSV (comma separated values) I'd try doing that, seeing if the column A information is kept, and then open that file in excel. Which database program do you use? good luck. Brenna On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 10:10 AM, Jane McGary wrote: > Hi all, > I hope there is someone reading this who is expert in using Excel. I use a > different database program, but from time to time I supply membership lists > to the treasurer and BX manager in Excel. When I export the records to > Excel, there is a problem. The members' surnames appear in Column A, and > the first names in Column B. When two members have the same surname, Excel > drops the second record. This doesn't happen when I export the records to > rtf or Word. Is there a way of making Excel accept records with identical > data in Column A? > > Thanks in advance, > Jane McGary > Membership Coordcinator, PBS > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janjeddeloh@gmail.com Wed, 10 Feb 2016 14:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <800D06C0-0F5A-46E2-B1B2-1A58150E6BE2@gmail.com> From: Jan Jeddeloh Subject: microwaving pollen Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 13:37:59 -0800 Nhu, You mention microwaving pollen for 15 seconds. I’ve never heard of such a thing. Do tell me more. Like why and for what species does this work. I’d be concerned about cooking it. Or is that somehow the idea? Jan Jeddeloh _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed, 10 Feb 2016 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: microwaving pollen Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 14:20:12 -0800 I don't think there has been any real research into this. I suspect that the microwaving causes some chemical changes in the polysaccharides on the pollen surface, thus removing the self incompatibility at the pollination stage. More indepth than that, mixing with fresh pollen also seems to help, although this is purely anecdotal. I have yet to do any controlled experiments. Whatever mechanism is at work, it allows the pollen to germinate and pollinate an otherwise self-incompatible plant. Sadly, this does not work on all self incompatible species, although I have managed to get it to work on some Hippeastrum species. Another thing about pollination, especially pollination under the difficult criteria of bypassing self-incompatibility, has to do with environmental factors such as heat and humidity, as well as bulb health and age of maturity. What this means is keep trying and don't give up the first time. Modern microwaves run at much higher power than mine, which I suspect is from the 70s (and still works!). I would suggest using it at half-power if you have a newer model. Nhu On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 1:37 PM, Jan Jeddeloh wrote: > Nhu, > You mention microwaving pollen for 15 seconds. I’ve never heard of such a > thing. Do tell me more. Like why and for what species does this work. > > I’d be concerned about cooking it. Or is that somehow the idea? > > Jan Jeddeloh > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 10 Feb 2016 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: microwaving pollen Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 22:36:19 +0000 The idea is not new to me, and I believe is used by hybridisers of various genera. I have old papers relating to a lot of research on Irids, and the different mechanisms by which various species prevent self pollination, and how these natural controls may be overcome. Much of the information is in a booklet "Symposium 2000, Printed papers of an international Symposium on Iris held in Tauranga, New Zealand 2-6th November 2000 celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the New Zealand Iris Society." Peter (UK) On 10 February 2016 at 22:20, Nhu Nguyen wrote: > I don't think there has been any real research into this. I suspect that > the microwaving causes some chemical changes in the polysaccharides on the > pollen surface, thus removing the self incompatibility at the pollination > stage. More indepth than that, mixing with fresh pollen also seems to help, > although this is purely anecdotal. I have yet to do any controlled > experiments. Whatever mechanism is at work, it allows the pollen to > germinate and pollinate an otherwise self-incompatible plant. > > Sadly, this does not work on all self incompatible species, although I have > managed to get it to work on some Hippeastrum species.at half-power if > you have a newer model. > > > You mention microwaving pollen for 15 seconds. I’ve never heard of such > a > > thing. Do tell me more. Like why and for what species does this work. > > > > I’d be concerned about cooking it. Or is that somehow the idea? > > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Wed, 10 Feb 2016 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <56BBC20D.3010201@t-online.de> From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: Albuca Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 00:04:45 +0100 Dear All, Especially thank you Ernie, Monica, Brian and Nhu for all the advice you gave me on Albucas. This is exactly what makes it worthwile being a member of the PBS. I am most grateful for the information about the other species which might fall into my search criteria which are not listed in this SX5. I ordered seed of A. pulchra from the SX and am curious what it will do with me. Albuca shawii/tenuifolia has been with me for a long time and is one of my favourites, if only it were taller.... We had a discussion about its hardiness in the past and I tried it in the open garden but failed. I think winters in continental USA are much different from our unpredictable maritime winters in north western Europe. I might try again in a different place as there are even self sown seedling popping up. But it is not a weed. I donated seed of a tall white summer blooming Albuca with bright green evergreen leaves. It cannot be A. nelsonii if nelsonii has hanging flowers, mine has upright flowers. I also had a potful of A. tenuifolia raised from seed as A. aurea. It is evergreen, the leaves are always brown and a little ugly at the tips and it flowers in late spring with me, still needs to be under glass at this time of the year and that makes it less suitable for my condition. It has flowered every spring and set many seeds. I gave the pot to a scientist who was interested in them. I also "grow" A. clanwilliami-gloria..... well.... sometimes. There must be about 10 bulbs in the pot, this year a record breaking numer of 3 of them are growing, the others remain in eternal dormancy until many El-Nino-droughts are over. A good dose of water in September seems to have helped. I once had a flower, yes, it is yellow and yes it is summer flowering.... but without leaves.... and the inflorescence is so tall and lanky that it needs to sit between some other plants. I understand it grows between Restios from which it gets the necessary support. Not quite my "ideal Albuca".... Bye for today Uli From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Wed, 10 Feb 2016 16:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <142345171.3936203.1455146095102.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Albuca Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 23:14:55 +0000 (UTC) Hi Uli Seems I made a mistake. My A. nelsonii has upright flowers not pendant, Sorry Brian From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 10 Feb 2016 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <56BBD572.2060805@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Help with PBS database Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 16:27:30 -0800 Brenna, Thank you. I have tried export to CSV (Word document) and it works well. I imagine I just then save the Word document as Excel. Or I can send it to Arnold and let him and his printer manage it, which might be better. I have always disliked Excel because of its appearance and jargon. Jane On 2/10/2016 12:30 PM, Brenna Green wrote: > Jane, > > This is more likely a problem with your database program's export to excel > function, unfortunately. If you have the option to export to CSV (comma > separated values) I'd try doing that, seeing if the column A information is > kept, and then open that file in excel. > > Which database program do you use? > > good luck. > > Brenna > > On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 10:10 AM, Jane McGary > wrote: > >> Hi all, >> I hope there is someone reading this who is expert in using Excel. I use a >> different database program, but from time to time I supply membership lists >> to the treasurer and BX manager in Excel. When I export the records to >> Excel, there is a problem. The members' surnames appear in Column A, and >> the first names in Column B. When two members have the same surname, Excel >> drops the second record. This doesn't happen when I export the records to >> rtf or Word. Is there a way of making Excel accept records with identical >> data in Column A? >> >> Thanks in advance, >> Jane McGary >> Membership Coordcinator, PBS >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Wed, 10 Feb 2016 19:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: Help with PBS database Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 19:46:37 -0700 Jane wrote I have tried export to CSV (Word document) and it works well. > I imagine I just then save the Word document as Excel. Or I can send it > to Arnold... The most likely to succeed solution is to export to CSV as plain ASCII text, and not as a Word document. Just about every database, spreadsheet and plain text editor program in the world, released in the last 20 years, can read a plain text ASCII CSV file. Not that many will open a Word document. In the export dialog box, tell your program to separate fields with a tab, and tell it to export to a plain text file with extension .CSV . If all fields have only characters found on a standard US keyboard, select ASCII encoded, plain text. If any of the fields has characters not found on a standard US keyboard, for example, diacritics such as ñ , select some variety of Unicode or UTF-8 encoding, and tell Arnold which you chose. Just about every database, spreadsheet and plain text editor program in the world, released in the last 5-10 years, can read any flavor of Unicode or UTF-8 encoded plain text CSV. Then send then send the CSV file to Arnold as an E-mail attachment, or via a cloud file service such as Dropbox. By exporting with a tab separating fields, it becomes incredibly easy to import to a spreadsheet. This can be done with the import commands. Or, the recipient can open the CSV file with a plain text editor, such as Windows Notepad or Mac Text, not with a word processor; highlight the entire document; copy to clipboard; and, paste into a spreadsheet. All the fields will paste in the proper rows and columns (if they were originally in the proper positions.) When importing to a database one merely tells the database to import the CSV file and specifies tabs are the separators. Leo Martin Zone 9? Phoenix Arizona USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From othonna@gmail.com Wed, 10 Feb 2016 21:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: pbs Re: microwaving pollen Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 20:35:55 -0800 A variation on this technique for achieving self-fertilization is to microwave pollen from a different related species for 60 seconds or so and mix it together with the selfing pollen and apply to the stigma. The idea being that pollen from the related species (now dead from microwaving) will retain a chemical or possibly mechanical signal that is acceptable to the stigma. During this process the pollen from the same flower or clone gets past the self-incompatibility barrier amidst the confusion. I am told this can work but the one or two times I've tried it was not successful. As Nhu said, persistence is key in uncertain precedures. Dylan Hannon *"The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to its culture…" --**Thomas Jefferson* _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 11 Feb 2016 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <56BCDC94.8000408@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Help with PBS database Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 11:10:12 -0800 Hi Leo, Thank you for the detailed response. Actually, I had been sending Arnold the type of file you recommend before I had to switch to Windows 8.1 and get a new version of Filemaker, which has the option of exporting directly to an Excel document, which is what Arnold uses to create the mailing labels. I can still go back to the old method and let him do the conversion again. Dell tells me he can use any type of file as long as it's alphabetized. I expect most people will wonder why I don't just use Excel in the first place. I can't stand looking at it, and I don't want to learn its miserable jargon. I got used to Filemaker when asked to use it to manage a NARGS database years ago and like it pretty well, although the new version is not as easy to use as the older one. No software designer ever heard the saying "If it's not broke, don't fix it." Best regards, Jane On 2/10/2016 6:46 PM, Leo Martin wrote: > Jane wrote > > I have tried export to CSV (Word document) and it works well. >> I imagine I just then save the Word document as Excel. Or I can send it >> to Arnold... > > The most likely to succeed solution is to export to CSV as plain ASCII > text, and not as a Word document. Just about every database, spreadsheet > and plain text editor program in the world, released in the last 20 years, > can read a plain text ASCII CSV file. Not that many will open a Word > document. > > In the export dialog box, tell your program to separate fields with a tab, > and tell it to export to a plain text file with extension .CSV . If all > fields have only characters found on a standard US keyboard, select ASCII > encoded, plain text. If any of the fields has characters not found on a > standard US keyboard, for example, diacritics such as ñ , select some > variety of Unicode or UTF-8 encoding, and tell Arnold which you chose. > Just about every database, spreadsheet and plain text editor program in > the world, released in the last 5-10 years, can read any flavor of Unicode > or UTF-8 encoded plain text CSV. > > Then send then send the CSV file to Arnold as an E-mail attachment, or via > a cloud file service such as Dropbox. > > By exporting with a tab separating fields, it becomes incredibly easy to > import to a spreadsheet. This can be done with the import commands. Or, > the recipient can open the CSV file with a plain text editor, such as > Windows Notepad or Mac Text, not with a word processor; highlight the > entire document; copy to clipboard; and, paste into a spreadsheet. All the > fields will paste in the proper rows and columns (if they were originally > in the proper positions.) > > When importing to a database one merely tells the database to import the > CSV file and specifies tabs are the separators. > > Leo Martin > Zone 9? > Phoenix Arizona USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Sat, 13 Feb 2016 08:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Crocus blooming at my work Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2016 07:18:24 -0800 Hi, Last Autumn I planted ~600 Crocus corms at my work, as well as many other plants. I was given the freedom to redesign the landscaping in front of the main office (it is a factory, very industrial). So now the crocuses are blooming! At least the early ones, there are more to come... Photos here:http://goo.gl/DkmrfD Continuing the discussion of inoculating bulbs, I did add a mix of beneficial microbes to the roots of the freshly planted plants. While the idea that bulbs with annual roots becoming infected with mycorrhizae is a bit iffy, the presence of beneficial microbes will no doubt benefit the bulbs by cycling nutrients and improving soil structure. When microbes eat, they convert their food to simpler elements, which are then prevented from leaching away. The nutrients are then locked up in the bodies of the microbes, but if the soil is teaming with life then they will all continuously eat each other thus releasing the stored nutrients. Many people already know that there are fungi that can "fix" nitrogen from the atmosphere into plant-available forms, but I just learned that there are bacteria that do the same. Yeasts in the soil also convert nitrogen, apparently. Phosphorus is also continuously made available to plant roots by microbes. Phosphorus is apparently an unstable soil el ement that quickly bonds with other elements if not hastily absorbed, thus rendered unusable to plants without the aid of microbes. So much to learn! I'm thinking of going to school for this, but with a 2y/o daughter and another due within the month, (not to mention a full time job), I'm expecting to earn my degree in about 20+ years. It's about the journey, right? -Travis OwenRogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com From wahoffma@ncsu.edu Sun, 14 Feb 2016 08:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: William Hoffmann Subject: Paramongaia weberbaueri dormancy Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2016 10:42:12 -0500 A couple of years ago I obtained a couple of bulbs from a grower in New Zealand. When I asked if this was a summer-growing or a winter-growing clone, he told me that they flower in the summer in New Zealand, but when he has sent them to people in the northern hemisphere they have flowered in winter. I had hoped my bulbs would shift to a summer-growing habit, but my bulbs are now in their second winter of active growth. The two bulbs woke at approximately the same time, even though one spent its dormancy in a cool basement and the other was in a warm office. I wonder if the growth cycle is more strongly controlled by an internal biological clock than by the external environment. Or perhaps my indoor growing conditions are too constant to entrain them into a summer cycle of growth? Where was an interesting discussion a while ago about changing hemispheres, but can anyone offer suggestions specific for Paramongaia? Thanks, Bill From msittner@mcn.org Sun, 14 Feb 2016 08:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <56C0A847.6060900@mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Paramongaia weberbaueri dormancy Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2016 08:16:07 -0800 I obtained a Paramongaia when Bill Dijk visited the United States from New Zealand and brought along some to sell. I tried for a couple of years to make it grow when I thought it was supposed to grow. At the time we didn't realize that some clones grow in winter and some in summer. I finally gave up and listened to the message it was sending about when it wanted to grow (winter). My bulb succumbed to the bulb fly before it bloomed, but an offset finally bloomed many years later this past January when I was ready to give up. I was very impressed by how long the flower lasted and its fragrance. We once had a topic of the week (October 2003 if you want to look in the archives) about bulbs that could be converted to another cycle. This seems to be the exception, but it can be done (Sandersonia is an example). Plants that are forced or sold at the wrong time usually when left on their own return to their normal period of growth. It would be interesting to hear from anyone who has successfully gotten a plant to grow at a time different than when it would grow in its native environment. I have mentioned in the past Brunsvigia grandiflora flowering in winter in California and summer in South Africa. Mary Sue From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Mon, 15 Feb 2016 02:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <56C1A149.4070701@t-online.de> From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: microwaving pollen Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2016 10:58:33 +0100 Dear All, The topic of microwaving pollen to overcome self-sterility is very interesting. The difficulty I have is that I find the instruction too vague. What is half strength in a microwave? Can you give the setting in Watt? With an indication in Watt the energy applied would be clear, then the length of exposure to that energy can be dealt with separately. I would guess that both the level of energy exposure and its length do matter. Thank you very much Uli From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Mon, 15 Feb 2016 04:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <56C1C192.30007@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: microwaving pollen Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2016 12:16:18 +0000 Hi, I wondered if anyone had microwaved pollen and then had a look with a microscope at the effects - and you could then decide how much power to apply. There is a maybe relevant paper about microwave drying but not for pollination: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1222270?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents Behind a knowledge wall but for free if you register, and quite a bit is visible on the above link. Little bit of amateur comment: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1758257/dont-microwave-the-alfoil -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From xerantheum@gmail.com Mon, 15 Feb 2016 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: microwaving pollen Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2016 10:11:33 -0800 Hi Uli, Yes, you are right. With more accurate description, it would be most useful to different people. I have an old model that is 400 Watts. Power at 400 watts and 15-20 seconds is what I typically use. If you have more powerful models, you can scale it down. According to what I can find on the internet, the scaling is linear. For example, if you have a 1000 Watt machine, my output would be 40% as powerful as yours. You should reduce the power on your machine to the 40% power setting. Alternatively, you can reduce cooking time to 6-8 seconds at 100% power. David mentioned that perhaps drying is a cause. I don't think that is the case since air drying of pollen doesn't help to bypass self-incompatibility. You'd need some really fancy machines or some chemical reactions to see if the polysaccharides have changed - we need a chemist. Jim Shields, where are you? I searched around a little bit and it appears that microwaves are often used to solubilize polysaccharides or cause change in structure of highly branched polysaccharide molecules. So it appears that my hypothesis of microwaves changing the polysaccharides that causes self-incompatibility may hold some water. Nhu On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 1:58 AM, Johannes Ulrich Urban < johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de> wrote: > What is half strength in a microwave? Can you give the setting in Watt? > With an indication in Watt the energy applied would be clear, then the > length of exposure to that energy can be dealt with separately. I would > guess that both the level of energy exposure and its length do matter. > From jshields46074@gmail.com Mon, 15 Feb 2016 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: James SHIELDS Subject: microwaving pollen Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2016 15:33:27 -0500 Hi Nhu and all, As a biochemist, I should understand this better than I do. In fact, I looked into the literature on self-incompatibility, but that was years ago. I'm pretty sure the heat denaturation is producing changes to proteins in the pollen as well as to polysaccharides. I seem to recall that the stigma response to self-pollen was to produce RNase that destroyed new RNA being produced in the pollen tube as the pollen tube tries to grow. Note that one usually uses heat-inactivated fertile (non-self) pollen as the promoting agent, and the heat inactivation is just so you don't get any offspring from the promoter parent. You could get the same affect by mixing live fertile (non-self) pollen with the self pollen, if you don't mind getting a bunch of the hybrid seeds as well as the self-seeds. This is probably one of those annoying biochemistry puzzles where the inhibitor of my inhibitor is my activator. It could easily give me a headache! Jim On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 1:11 PM, Nhu Nguyen wrote: > Hi Uli, > > Yes, you are right. With more accurate description, it would be most useful > to different people. I have an old model that is 400 Watts. Power at 400 > watts and 15-20 seconds is what I typically use. If you have more powerful > models, you can scale it down. According to what I can find on the > internet, the scaling is linear. > > For example, if you have a 1000 Watt machine, my output would be 40% as > powerful as yours. You should reduce the power on your machine to the 40% > power setting. Alternatively, you can reduce cooking time to 6-8 seconds at > 100% power. > > David mentioned that perhaps drying is a cause. I don't think that is the > case since air drying of pollen doesn't help to bypass > self-incompatibility. You'd need some really fancy machines or some > chemical reactions to see if the polysaccharides have changed - we need a > chemist. Jim Shields, where are you? > > I searched around a little bit and it appears that microwaves are often > used to solubilize polysaccharides or cause change in structure of highly > branched polysaccharide molecules. So it appears that my hypothesis of > microwaves changing the polysaccharides that causes self-incompatibility > may hold some water. > > Nhu > > On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 1:58 AM, Johannes Ulrich Urban < > johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de> wrote: > > > What is half strength in a microwave? Can you give the setting in Watt? > > With an indication in Watt the energy applied would be clear, then the > > length of exposure to that energy can be dealt with separately. I would > > guess that both the level of energy exposure and its length do matter. > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- James Shields jshields46074@gmail.com P.O. Box 92 Westfield, IN 46074 U.S.A. From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Mon, 15 Feb 2016 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <56C240AE.2020800@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: microwaving pollen Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2016 21:18:38 +0000 Hi, On 15/02/2016 18:11, Nhu Nguyen wrote: > David mentioned that perhaps drying is a cause. I don't think that is the > case since air drying of pollen doesn't help to bypass The drying paper says that microwaves cause a lot of damage, presumably by making any water instantly boil and explode. If the pollen is already dry there is not that effect. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From xerantheum@gmail.com Mon, 15 Feb 2016 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: microwaving pollen Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2016 14:11:02 -0800 By the way, I always use fresh pollen in the microwave. I have not had good results with dried or frozen pollen. Nhu On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 1:18 PM, David Pilling wrote: > The drying paper says that microwaves cause a lot of damage, presumably by > making any water instantly boil and explode. If the pollen is already dry > there is not that effect. > From pelarg@aol.com Mon, 15 Feb 2016 17:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <152e77fcb1e-277-24aa@webprd-a74.mail.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: microwaving pollen Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2016 19:34:18 -0500 Hi Nhu et al, So all this talk of microwaving pollen has come at a good time, I have one plant in a pot of seedlings of Phycella australis in bloom right now with two flowers. Very pretty thing. I am assuming it is probably self sterile so I will nuke some pollen now and mix it with the fresh stuff and report back on results later on. A good mini project on a cold and snowy day, while we await a rainstorm and 50 plus degree temps tomrrow after visiting -3 F yesterday. I will be glad when spring finally gets here. Ernie DeMarie In evidently Z6 NY when it should be Z7. Eranthis are up as are a few crocus, the eranthis are of course frozen today (little yellow frozen spheres that cant open) but hopefully will be okay by tomorrow. -----Original Message----- From: Nhu Nguyen To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2016 5:11 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] microwaving pollen By the way, I always use fresh pollen in the microwave. I have not had good results with dried or frozen pollen. Nhu On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 1:18 PM, David Pilling wrote: > The drying paper says that microwaves cause a lot of damage, presumably by > making any water instantly boil and explode. If the pollen is already dry > there is not that effect. > From bruceandjill.schroder@gmail.com Mon, 15 Feb 2016 23:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bruce Schroder Subject: Paramongaia weberbaueri dormancy Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2016 17:44:48 +1100 Interesting discussion re changing growing cycle. I'd just like to get a Paramongaia weberbaueri - I wouldn't care when it grew as long as it grew and flowered for me! Pretty much non- existent in Australia and impossible to get from our friends just across the ditch in New Zealand because of Australia's very difficult quarantine restrictions. Imagine Bill Dijk bringing a pocket full here - he'd be kicked out of the country before he arrived! Seeds are OK but almost never offered. Bruce Schroder Melbourne Australia From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Wed, 17 Feb 2016 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <56C4ECB6.6090208@t-online.de> From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: overcoming self incompatibility Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 22:57:10 +0100 Dear All, Thank you for all the information on microwaving pollen. There may be another possibility to overcome self incampatibiliy, I have not tried it but read about it in the Journal of the German Echinopsis Hybrid Society: Mix the desired fresh pollen with ordinary cement powder. Apparentliy the cement stimulates the stigma to accept pollen which it normally would not. Don't ask me how it works..... changes in pH? As I said, I have not tried it myself but the article said it did work. By for today Uli From rgb2@cornell.edu Wed, 17 Feb 2016 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1C95A036-93CC-4A8B-9041-D632A3133905@cornell.edu> From: Robin Graham Bell Subject: overcoming self incompatibility Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 22:53:13 +0000 This is a very interesting topic & I am going to try at least some of them on my frustrating trilliums that seem quite reluctant to self. However, most of the comments that I have seen don’t really talk about which species/genera/families it might or might not work in. Is there a general reference or comments from someone who has some knowledge about this? Cheers, Robin Bell. Medford, OR. > On Feb 17, 2016, at 1:57 PM, Johannes Ulrich Urban wrote: > > Dear All, > > > Thank you for all the information on microwaving pollen. > > There may be another possibility to overcome self incampatibiliy, I have not tried it but read about it in the Journal of the German Echinopsis Hybrid Society: > > Mix the desired fresh pollen with ordinary cement powder. Apparentliy the cement stimulates the stigma to accept pollen which it normally would not. > Don't ask me how it works..... changes in pH? > As I said, I have not tried it myself but the article said it did work. > > > By for today > > Uli > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed, 17 Feb 2016 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: overcoming self incompatibility Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 15:01:53 -0800 Thank you for the reminder Uli. I have heard of this cement method as well. I think that the high pH of the cement would change chemical properties of both the pollen and stigma. In the orchid world, saliva is also used with some success. In this case, saliva contains amylases that would break down starches (polysaccharides that we talked about prior). I tried with but only once or twice and cannot speak to success in neither orchids nor bulbs. Another method, which is the most tricky is to do a bait and switch. For example, you want to set seeds on species A, but it's self incompatible. What you do is take species A and pollinate species B. When the pollen tube has grown enough on the stigma of species B, you cut it off, and attach it onto the cut stigma of species A. I have only heard of this method but have never tried it. All of these methods are "pre-zygotic" barriers = before the plant sperms and eggs fuse. There are some plants with post-zygotic barriers and that's several levels above what we can do without genetic modification of the plant. We get into the GMO territory that tend to stir many people. Robin, I think there are four methods that we have discussed so far. Just try all of them and tell us if you have success with any of them. Nhu On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 1:57 PM, Johannes Ulrich Urban < johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de> wrote: > Mix the desired fresh pollen with ordinary cement powder. Apparentliy the > cement stimulates the stigma to accept pollen which it normally would not. > Don't ask me how it works..... changes in pH? > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 17 Feb 2016 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Kansas City Spring Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 17:01:55 -0600 Dear PBS friends, After a fairly mild winter, but a couple of nights down to -2, the first signs of spring are showing: Eranthis - dozens in bloom and many more just showing. Galanthus A few blooming, mostly G. ‘Don Hackenberry’ - usually not the first, but also just starting G. elwesii monostictus, G ’S. Arnott’and a few others. More to appear, I hope. Lycoris - various spring foliage species have up to 2 in of growth. Crocus- only Tommies are showing, but after pushing aside fallen leaves. Non-bulbous Hamemallis pallida, Chinese Witch Hazel is starting to open buds, but few fully open. Magnolia zenii -alwasy the first in the genus just swelling, but could be open by the end of the week. The down side is having to get serious about cleaning up fall residue, fallen branches from multiple winter wind storms and raking up old leaves. Forecast calls for more cold days, but enjoying almost a week of 60 +. Hope spring is appearing elsewhere, too. Jim W. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 17 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: overcoming self incompatibility Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 23:31:34 +0000 This link is to a paper of self incompatibility in Acacia.... http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24232557 Peter (UK) From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 17 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: overcoming self incompatibility Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 23:38:19 +0000 A study of self incompatibility in Nicotiana..... http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1469-8137.1981.tb02349.x/full Peter (UK) From teck11@embarqmail.com Wed, 17 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <002a01d169dc$a32f6950$e98e3bf0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: overcoming self incompatibility Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 18:40:51 -0500 I saw no effect when I tried it in a controlled test on about 20 Hippeastrum two years ago. Tim Eck > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Robin Graham > Bell > Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 5:53 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] overcoming self incompatibility > > This is a very interesting topic & I am going to try at least some of them on my > frustrating trilliums that seem quite reluctant to self. However, most of the > comments that I have seen don’t really talk about which > species/genera/families it might or might not work in. Is there a general > reference or comments from someone who has some knowledge about > this? > Cheers, > Robin Bell. Medford, OR. > > On Feb 17, 2016, at 1:57 PM, Johannes Ulrich Urban urban@t-online.de> wrote: > > > > Dear All, > > > > > > Thank you for all the information on microwaving pollen. > > > > There may be another possibility to overcome self incampatibiliy, I have not > tried it but read about it in the Journal of the German Echinopsis Hybrid > Society: > > > > Mix the desired fresh pollen with ordinary cement powder. Apparentliy the > cement stimulates the stigma to accept pollen which it normally would not. > > Don't ask me how it works..... changes in pH? > > As I said, I have not tried it myself but the article said it did work. > > > > > > By for today > > > > Uli > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 17 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: overcoming self incompatibility Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 23:46:04 +0000 Self-incompatibility in Malus http://www.jourlib.org/references/8232439 Peter (UK) On 17 February 2016 at 23:38, Peter Taggart wrote: > A study of self incompatibility in Nicotiana..... > http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1469-8137.1981.tb02349.x/full > > Peter (UK) > > > > > > > From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Wed, 17 Feb 2016 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: overcoming self incompatibility Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 17:39:49 -0800 Is Doug Westfall still on this list? A few years ago he tried one of the microwave methods. I think it was the one where you microwave the flower’s own pollen a little bit to try to alter it enough that it will allow itself to be pollinated with it. (Or maybe it was the one where you microwave another species of pollen to kill it, then mix it with the pollen from the species itself you’re trying to get seeds from.) In any case, Doug has/had a single bulb of Hippeastrum intiflorum that flowered regularly. He never found anyone anywhere else who had it to get some pollen, and it is self-incompatible. But I do know that on one occasion when he used the microwave method, he got lots of viable seeds and had a number of seedlings from that. I don’t know whatever happened to those seedlings nor the exact details of how he did the microwaving and pollinating. But he was successful on one occasion. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > On Feb 17, 2016, at 3:01 PM, Nhu Nguyen wrote: > > > Robin, I think there are four methods that we have discussed so far. Just > try all of them and tell us if you have success with any of them. > > Nhu > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rgb2@cornell.edu Wed, 17 Feb 2016 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Robin Graham Bell Subject: self incompatibility Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 04:09:52 +0000 Peter, Tim, Nhu, others, Thank you all for your input, much appreciated, part of the problem is that I have one plant of one trillium species, underwoodii, & I have tried, unsuccessfully, to get more for quite a while. While I have been trying to acquire more, I have also been trying to self it, with as little success, as assessed by pod seeds (very few). The pollen appears to work if put on other compatible plants. However, even though my plant is relatively vigorous there aren’t enough flowers to do the many things that one would like to do with unlimited flowers & pollen. Therefore the need to be selective; one or two flowers have to be used for controls, so the question is what to do with the 3-4 extras. Two treatments are the max that are really possible if one wants to get anything meaningful in the way of results. Which two? Please note, I don’t expect anyone to work this out for me, just outlining the problem(s). But, I have to say, there is something really appealing about the idea of pollinating with pollen set in concrete, I feel like I have to do that in the hope it will enter family lore. So now I’m down to one other treatment, with no obvious leader. Not forgetting, I’d really like some seeds as well as a possible yarn (ideally all of the above). Forging on, incompatibly. Robin, Medford, OR. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From sarahh@suiattle.net Wed, 17 Feb 2016 21:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <56C545AF.5070108@suiattle.net> From: Sarah Hinckley Subject: self incompatibility Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 20:16:47 -0800 Robin, I just saw that Plant Delights has Trillium underwoodii... Sarah On 2/17/2016 8:09 PM, Robin Graham Bell wrote: > Peter, Tim, Nhu, others, Thank you all for your input, much appreciated, part of the problem is that I have one plant of one trillium species, underwoodii, & I have tried, unsuccessfully, to get more for quite a while. While I have been trying to acquire more, I have also been trying to self it, with as little success, as assessed by pod seeds (very few). The pollen appears to work if put on other compatible plants. However, even though my plant is relatively vigorous there aren’t enough flowers to do the many things that one would like to do with unlimited flowers & pollen. Therefore the need to be selective; one or two flowers have to be used for controls, so the question is what to do with the 3-4 extras. Two treatments are the max that are really possible if one wants to get anything meaningful in the way of results. Which two? > Please note, I don’t expect anyone to work this out for me, just outlining the problem(s). But, I have to say, there is something really appealing about the idea of pollinating with pollen set in concrete, I feel like I have to do that in the hope it will enter family lore. So now I’m down to one other treatment, with no obvious leader. > Not forgetting, I’d really like some seeds as well as a possible yarn (ideally all of the above). > Forging on, incompatibly. > Robin, Medford, OR. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hanshuizing@xs4all.nl Thu, 18 Feb 2016 01:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <56C58842.40207@xs4all.nl> From: Hans Huizing Subject: overcoming self incompatibility Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 10:00:50 +0100 Hello Uli, Just cement powder will do the trick in quite some cases as well! Hans Huizing Holland Op 17-2-2016 om 22:57 schreef Johannes Ulrich Urban: > Dear All, > > > Thank you for all the information on microwaving pollen. > > There may be another possibility to overcome self incampatibiliy, I > have not tried it but read about it in the Journal of the German > Echinopsis Hybrid Society: > > Mix the desired fresh pollen with ordinary cement powder. Apparentliy > the cement stimulates the stigma to accept pollen which it normally > would not. > Don't ask me how it works..... changes in pH? > As I said, I have not tried it myself but the article said it did work. > > > By for today > > Uli > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From kimcmich@hotmail.com Thu, 18 Feb 2016 09:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Aquatic crinums Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 08:43:17 -0800 Greetings, I am disassembling a large planted aquarium and have several large, mature Crinum natans and C. calamistratum that need a new home. These plants are large and would need a tank at least 40 gallons or larger. If there's a bulb enthusiast itching for mature, blooming-size specimens of these species let me know. This is not an offer for those merely wanting to "try out" these taxa for the first time unless you already have a large aquarium and deep substrate. -| From: francisco lopez torres Subject: aquatic Crinums Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 18:32:13 +0000 (UTC) Hi Kipp, I am interested in Crinums, I grow few species and have big empty aquariums and previous experience with aquarium plants but I am not sure about how problematic would be sending bulbs from USA? to UK Thanks Francisco From kimcmich@hotmail.com Thu, 18 Feb 2016 11:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: aquatic Crinums Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 10:44:10 -0800 Francisco & PBS: The plants looks to be spoken for. Thanks for helping find them good homes. -| Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 18:32:13 +0000 > From: kikopez@yahoo.es > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] aquatic Crinums > > Hi Kipp, > I am interested in Crinums, I grow few species and have big empty aquariums and previous experience with aquarium plants > but I am not sure about how problematic would be sending bulbs from USA? to UK > Thanks > Francisco > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rredbbeard@yahoo.com Fri, 19 Feb 2016 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1455914047.63251.YahooMailMobile@web120403.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rick Buell Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs 2016 web site is up and running! Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2016 12:34:07 -0800 Diana Chapman reports that the Telos Rare Bulbs 2016 Web site is up and running! She asked me to post this because the PBS site and her server are unable to communicate, for reasons yet to be determined. Please address all orders, inquiries, etc. to her at: RareBulbs@suddenlink.net If you don't hear back, go to her websiteTelosRareBulbs.com and try again. Rick Buell   It seems I can't post to PBS any more.   I have contacted Dave Pilling and he says it isn't him, but my posts  either bounce or just disappear.  I don't have this trouble with any  other e-mails.  Would you mind posting that the Telos web site for 2016  is up?  I get dozens of e-mails asking when it will be finished, and  this would help. From ramato2210@gmail.com Sun, 21 Feb 2016 03:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: romain amato Subject: Eriospermum seed sowing method Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2016 11:38:23 +0100 Hello This year in France we've experienced a very unusually hot winter. Temperatures here in Paris were rarely below 5°C during the night. And for the first time, I've observed a very good germination rate in my seeds of Eriospermum. For the past two years I've tried with very little success the sowing of these "winter species". What does "winter or autmn grower" mean for sowing those seeds ? I've tried to sow them in late August, i.e. in early fall, with poor germination. Too hot I thought. so I've made it in november, with the same results. "Too cold" I thought. I watered them when the surface was dry, and the seeds, even with a cautious watering, were disturbed and didn't germinate. I also observed that my seeds didn't germinate the next year, when let undisturbed in a dry and shadowy place. So only sow fresh seeds, less than a year old. Then this year, after some thoughts, I proceeded that way : -first, I sow my seeds only when temperatures were below 10°C at night, but over 6°C. I think night temperatures are the most important factor in the temperature parameters. -I burried the seeds with a very thin layer of very fine sand and very fine vermiculite, about 2-3 mm : in fact a very light cover; -The pots were soaked during a night at my room temperature (20°C) and the next day placed outside, in a light place on my balcony without direct sun (day temp 12°C, night temp 6°C) -After sowing the seeds, about from 1 cm of the top of the pot, I put 2 labels with the name, reaching about 4 cm above the pot, and wrapped a cellophane plastic film around, to make a "mini greenhouse". -I didn't need to water them more with this paper, so the seeds were not disturbed. With this method, I reach for some species (E. aphyllum) 100% germinating rate, and very young seedlings experienced two nights at -1°C without any damage. Species that were not yet fully germinated were just slower than the first ones. what do you think about this? do you think Eriospermum seed longevity is higher? How do you make yours? How do you treat them after this stage? Mine are about 1 cm high, and I still don't need to watere them or to remove the cellophane. I wonder when it'd be the best time to do. They're protected from wind with this. Well... I'm happy this time ! Cet e-mail a été envoyé depuis un ordinateur protégé par Avast. www.avast.com <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Sun, 21 Feb 2016 09:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: A honeybee visits a lone daffodil Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2016 08:34:01 -0800 Hi ya'll, In my mixed-coniferous SW OR zone 7 garden, Spring is behind the nearby cities of Rogue River, Grants Pass, and Medford, by a couple weeks. Honeybees have been active since late January, and there have recently been a few bulbs to bloom. A single daffodil, an unnamed bulb from a "naturalizing mix" (most of which died, btw) is in bloom, and has attracted a few honeybees. This is odd, honeybees have not shown the slightest interest in daffodils here that I know of. The bee spent five minutes trying to get at the nectar from outside the corona, quite entertaining, before finally finding it's way in, only to forget how to get in again and giving up. I made a video, see it here: http://youtu.be/e5dv5nBw-IQ Cheers, Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From d.c.argo@sbcglobal.net Sun, 21 Feb 2016 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <367767843.7710907.1456077029100.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Donna Argo Subject: PLease take me off your emailing list Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2016 17:50:29 +0000 (UTC) d.c.ago.@sbcglobal.net thanks Donna From mphillips41@cfl.rr.com Sun, 21 Feb 2016 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <008001d16cd1$39bd3180$ad379480$@cfl.rr.com> From: "Michael Phillips" Subject: unsubscribe Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2016 12:56:44 -0500 From hk@icarustrading.com Sun, 21 Feb 2016 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: From HK Subject: A honeybee visits a lone daffodil Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2016 16:46:47 -0500 hmm, the video doesn't work?​ On Sun, Feb 21, 2016 at 11:34 AM, Travis O wrote: > Hi ya'll, > > In my mixed-coniferous SW OR zone 7 garden, Spring is behind the nearby > cities of Rogue River, Grants Pass, and Medford, by a couple weeks. > Honeybees have been active since late January, and there have recently been > a few bulbs to bloom. > > A single daffodil, an unnamed bulb from a "naturalizing mix" (most of > which died, btw) is in bloom, and has attracted a few honeybees. This is > odd, honeybees have not shown the slightest interest in daffodils here that > I know of. The bee spent five minutes trying to get at the nectar from > outside the corona, quite entertaining, before finally finding it's way in, > only to forget how to get in again and giving up. > > I made a video, see it here: > > http://youtu.be/e5dv5nBw-IQ > > Cheers, > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From arnold140@verizon.net Sun, 21 Feb 2016 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <26892519.207398.1456096501019.JavaMail.root@tvweb133088.mailsrvcs.net> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: A honeybee visits a lone daffodil Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2016 17:15:01 -0600 (CST) Take the (.) from in between the (u) and (b) in youtube.com Arnold On 02/21/16, From HK wrote: hmm, the video doesn't work?​ On Sun, Feb 21, 2016 at 11:34 AM, Travis O wrote: > Hi ya'll, > > In my mixed-coniferous SW OR zone 7 garden, Spring is behind the nearby > cities of Rogue River, Grants Pass, and Medford, by a couple weeks. > Honeybees have been active since late January, and there have recently been > a few bulbs to bloom. > > A single daffodil, an unnamed bulb from a "naturalizing mix" (most of > which died, btw) is in bloom, and has attracted a few honeybees. This is > odd, honeybees have not shown the slightest interest in daffodils here that > I know of. The bee spent five minutes trying to get at the nectar from > outside the corona, quite entertaining, before finally finding it's way in, > only to forget how to get in again and giving up. > > I made a video, see it here: > > http://youtu.be/e5dv5nBw-IQ > > Cheers, > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tiede@pacbell.net Sun, 21 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <01d301d16d02$fa95ab90$efc102b0$@net> From: "Bracey Tiede" Subject: A honeybee visits a lone daffodil Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2016 15:52:51 -0800 Works fine for me. Bracey San Jose CA -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of From HK Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2016 1:47 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] A honeybee visits a lone daffodil hmm, the video doesn't work?​ On Sun, Feb 21, 2016 at 11:34 AM, Travis O wrote: > Hi ya'll, > > In my mixed-coniferous SW OR zone 7 garden, Spring is behind the nearby > cities of Rogue River, Grants Pass, and Medford, by a couple weeks. > Honeybees have been active since late January, and there have recently been > a few bulbs to bloom. > > A single daffodil, an unnamed bulb from a "naturalizing mix" (most of > which died, btw) is in bloom, and has attracted a few honeybees. This is > odd, honeybees have not shown the slightest interest in daffodils here that > I know of. The bee spent five minutes trying to get at the nectar from > outside the corona, quite entertaining, before finally finding it's way in, > only to forget how to get in again and giving up. > > I made a video, see it here: > > http://youtu.be/e5dv5nBw-IQ > > Cheers, > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ralph.carpenter1@googlemail.com Sun, 21 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: John Ralph Carpenter Subject: A honeybee visits a lone daffodil Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 00:10:29 +0000 And me! On Sunday, 21 February 2016, Bracey Tiede wrote: > Works fine for me. > > Bracey > San Jose CA > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of From HK > Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2016 1:47 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] A honeybee visits a lone daffodil > > hmm, the video doesn't work? > > On Sun, Feb 21, 2016 at 11:34 AM, Travis O wrote: > >> Hi ya'll, >> >> In my mixed-coniferous SW OR zone 7 garden, Spring is behind the nearby >> cities of Rogue River, Grants Pass, and Medford, by a couple weeks. >> Honeybees have been active since late January, and there have recently been >> a few bulbs to bloom. >> >> A single daffodil, an unnamed bulb from a "naturalizing mix" (most of >> which died, btw) is in bloom, and has attracted a few honeybees. This is >> odd, honeybees have not shown the slightest interest in daffodils here that >> I know of. The bee spent five minutes trying to get at the nectar from >> outside the corona, quite entertaining, before finally finding it's way in, >> only to forget how to get in again and giving up. >> >> I made a video, see it here: >> >> http://youtu.be/e5dv5nBw-IQ >> >> Cheers, >> >> Travis Owen >> Rogue River, OR >> >> www.amateuranthecologist.com >> www.pacificbulbsociety.org >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- Ralph Carpenter 2 & 3 Stone Cottages Chilmington Green Great Chart Ashford Kent TN23 3DW 01233 637567 From k.preteroti@verizon.net Sun, 21 Feb 2016 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kenneth Subject: A honeybee visits a lone daffodil Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2016 19:31:55 -0500 Thanks for the video Travis. Spring in NJ is still weeks away but we are being teased with temps in the 50's. I can say i have not seen bees in my daffodils. Unusual but a welcome sight. Ken P Old Bridge, NJ Zone 6b From botanicfanatic@gmail.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 00:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Brenton Playford Subject: Removal from list Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 19:14:29 +1100 Please remove me from the mailing list Cheers Brenton Playford botanicfanatic@gmail.com From enoster@hotmail.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 06:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: The Amateur Anthecologist: Bulbs and Floral Visitors Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 05:23:16 -0800 Hi there, More bulb photos here. Crocus continue to bloom, the deer and slugs find them delicious. Scilla, Narcissus, and Iris also have early-blooming individuals. Some native bulbs budding, too. This year's timing seems way off from the last few years. Last year's über-mild winter contributed to an earlier bloom, this year is correspondingly delayed since it was colder. Bees, spiders, and flies (oh my) are visiting the flowers when the weather is suitable: http://goo.gl/ELwMah Lots of seedlings are excellent this year, too. Seedling pictures to come. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From ds429@frontier.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <743385.73310.bm@smtp235.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 395 Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 11:48:19 -0500 Dear All,       The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at mailto: ds429@frontier.com   Include "BX 395" in the subject line.         Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added.     Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:         If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. Dell's email address ds429@frontier.com Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake.             I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Nhu Nguyen: SEEDS: VERY FEW 1. Nerine sarniensis hybrids 2. Nerine undulata - open pollinated BULBS 3. Sparaxis tricolor 4. Oxalis brasiliensis 5. Dichelostemma multiflorum 6. Dichelostemma congestum 7. Brodiaea filifolia 8. Synandrospadix vermitoxicus (only 2) 9. Muscari comosum (Leipoldtia comosa) 10. Cyrtanthus elatus x montanus 11. Grab bag of various bulbs (unidentified)  VERY FEW OF EACH OF THE FOLLOWING: 12. Achimenes 'George Houche' 13. Achimenes 'Rose Frost' 14. Achimenes 'Rose Elf' 15. Achimenes 'Grape Wine' 16. Achimenes 'Meissner Porzellan' 17. Achimenes 'Apple Blossom' 18. Achimenes 'Amie Saliba' 19. Achimenes 'Desiree' 20. xSmithocodonia ‘Heartland's Joy'   From Aad van Beek: Bulblets (1 – 4 cm) of Hippeastrum garden hybrids: 21. ‘Happy Garden’ 22. ‘Yellow Garden’ 23. ‘Striped Garden’ 24. ‘Pink Garden’ 25. ‘White Garden’ From Dell Sherk: 26. Seedling tubers of Sinningia warmingii Thank you, Nhu an Aad !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From keshabcp@gmail.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Keshab C. Pradhan" Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 395 Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 22:28:26 +0530 Hi Dell, Shall be extremely grateful to have BX 395- 12-20 (Achimenes) as they do so very well here. and Also 21-25 (Hippeastrum bulblets) Regards, Keshab On Mon, Feb 22, 2016 at 10:18 PM, Dell Sherk wrote: > Dear All, > > The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends > to be shared. > If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY > at > > mailto: ds429@frontier.com > > Include "BX 395" in the subject line. > > > Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not > specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, > too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first > come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, > included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of > seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to < > pbs.treasury@verizon.net>; no money orders, please) you should send the > PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. > > Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are > not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership > charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb > Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take > advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: < > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/> > > If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the > PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their > donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 55 W. High St. > Salem, WV 26426 > USA > > Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. > > ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. > > Dell's email address > ds429@frontier.com > > Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake. > > > I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > > > From Nhu Nguyen: > > > SEEDS: VERY FEW > > 1. Nerine sarniensis hybrids > 2. Nerine undulata - open pollinated > > BULBS > 3. Sparaxis tricolor > 4. Oxalis brasiliensis > 5. Dichelostemma multiflorum > 6. Dichelostemma congestum > 7. Brodiaea filifolia > 8. Synandrospadix vermitoxicus (only 2) > 9. Muscari comosum (Leipoldtia comosa) > 10. Cyrtanthus elatus x montanus > 11. Grab bag of various bulbs (unidentified) > > VERY FEW OF EACH OF THE FOLLOWING: > > 12. Achimenes 'George Houche' > 13. Achimenes 'Rose Frost' > 14. Achimenes 'Rose Elf' > 15. Achimenes 'Grape Wine' > 16. Achimenes 'Meissner Porzellan' > 17. Achimenes 'Apple Blossom' > 18. Achimenes 'Amie Saliba' > 19. Achimenes 'Desiree' > 20. xSmithocodonia ‘Heartland's Joy' > > From Aad van Beek: > > Bulblets (1 – 4 cm) of Hippeastrum garden hybrids: > > 21. ‘Happy Garden’ > 22. ‘Yellow Garden’ > 23. ‘Striped Garden’ > 24. ‘Pink Garden’ > 25. ‘White Garden’ > > From Dell Sherk: > > 26. Seedling tubers of Sinningia warmingii > > > Thank you, Nhu an Aad !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@frontier.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 11:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <960518.72487.bm@smtp108.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Dell Sherk Subject: Achimenes in BX 395 Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 13:49:38 -0500 I am afraid that they are all gone! Dell Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From mdoming@gmail.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 11:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <48344AF6-188A-4761-9CD1-948CDE1BC95C@gmail.com> From: =?utf-8?Q?V=C3=ADctor_Men=C3=A9ndez_Dom=C3=ADnguez?= Subject: Achimenes in BX 395 Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:51:12 -0600 jajaja no problem !!! > El 22/02/2016, a las 12:49, Dell Sherk escribió: > > I am afraid that they are all gone! > > Dell > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From mdoming@gmail.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 11:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: =?utf-8?Q?V=C3=ADctor_Men=C3=A9ndez_Dom=C3=ADnguez?= Subject: Achimenes in BX 395 Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:51:47 -0600 I hope get something from my original list :p Regards > El 22/02/2016, a las 12:51, Víctor Menéndez Domínguez escribió: > > jajaja no problem !!! > > >> El 22/02/2016, a las 12:49, Dell Sherk escribió: >> >> I am afraid that they are all gone! >> >> Dell >> >> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From memobaquerizo@yahoo.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1435192297.8360013.1456173410426.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Guillermo Baquerizo Subject: out of the subscription Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 20:36:50 +0000 (UTC) PLease take me off your emailing list El único _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <56CB7ADD.8060007@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: How to leave the list gracefully Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 21:17:17 +0000 Hi, If you want to leave the list and cause as little trouble as possible, visit: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php#Change If you want to leave the list and cause a moderate amount of trouble to an individual, send me an email. Or use the Contact form on the PBS web site: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/contact.html?contact=davidpilling Please don't post defenestration requests to the list. Also please don't post your BX orders here. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon, 22 Feb 2016 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: How to leave the list gracefully Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:24:08 -0800 On Feb 22, 2016, at 1:17 PM, David Pilling wrote: > > > Please don't post defenestration requests to the list. > Brilliant sentence! --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Cynthia Mueller Subject: How to leave the list gracefully Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 22:33:11 +0000 I must have missed something...the only defenestrations I know of happened in Prague in medieval times, when mobs threw council members out of the windows...and Cardinal Mindszenky out of a window...and I know that the Polish breed of chicken has holes in their skulls called fenestrations...what is this latest reference? -Cynthia Mueller Cynthia W Mueller > On Feb 22, 2016, at 4:24 PM, Lee Poulsen wrote: > >> On Feb 22, 2016, at 1:17 PM, David Pilling wrote: >> >> >> Please don't post defenestration requests to the list. > > Brilliant sentence! > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ron_redding@hotmail.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ronald Redding Subject: How to leave the list gracefully Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 08:40:11 +1000 FYI Definition of defenestration Popularity: Bottom 50% of words 1 : a throwing of a person or thing out of a window 2 : a usually swift dismissal or expulsion (as from a political party or office) > From: wpoulsen@pacbell.net > Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:24:08 -0800 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] How to leave the list gracefully > > On Feb 22, 2016, at 1:17 PM, David Pilling wrote: > > > > > > Please don't post defenestration requests to the list. > > > > Brilliant sentence! > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From dzoonokwa@gmail.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Sami Gray Subject: How to leave the list gracefully Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:43:40 -0800 I agree about defenestration. I will be seeking opportunities to use it in a sentence. On Mon, Feb 22, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Ronald Redding wrote: > FYI > > Definition of defenestration > Popularity: Bottom 50% of words > > > 1 : a throwing of a person or thing out of a window > 2 : a usually swift dismissal or expulsion (as from a political party > or office) > > > From: wpoulsen@pacbell.net > > Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:24:08 -0800 > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: Re: [pbs] How to leave the list gracefully > > > > On Feb 22, 2016, at 1:17 PM, David Pilling > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Please don't post defenestration requests to the list. > > > > > > > Brilliant sentence! > > > > --Lee Poulsen > > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Sami Gray North Coast Natives (360) 779-5002 http://north-coast-natives.vpweb.com http://north-coast-natives.blogspot.com http://island-horticultural-services.blogspot.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rredbbeard@yahoo.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1456185986.1505.YahooMailMobile@web120404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rick Buell Subject: How to leave the list gracefully Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 16:06:26 -0800 I had always thought that defenestration was the preferred method of deposing lingering popes? Rick Buell From teck11@embarqmail.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <000601d16dce$3d73e0f0$b85ba2d0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: How to leave the list gracefully Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 19:07:51 -0500 When I was in Spain in the late 60's anyone who annoyed Franco proceeded to commit suicide by defenestration. Very obliging from Franco's point of view. And yes, Franco's still dead... > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Cynthia > Mueller > Sent: Monday, February 22, 2016 5:33 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] How to leave the list gracefully > > I must have missed something...the only defenestrations I know of > happened in Prague in medieval times, when mobs threw council members > out of the windows...and Cardinal Mindszenky out of a window...and I know > that the Polish breed of chicken has holes in their skulls called > fenestrations...what is this latest reference? -Cynthia Mueller > > Cynthia W Mueller > > > On Feb 22, 2016, at 4:24 PM, Lee Poulsen wrote: > > > >> On Feb 22, 2016, at 1:17 PM, David Pilling > wrote: > >> > >> > >> Please don't post defenestration requests to the list. > > > > Brilliant sentence! > > > > --Lee Poulsen > > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 > > ft/350 m > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Mon, 22 Feb 2016 18:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2016 17:43:12 -0800 So, to aid in moving away from the topic of jumping out of windows, I have a genuine bulb question. I bought an "amaryllis" last fall, it flowered, and there is now one robust 30" leaf remaining. When I potted it, I first filled the pot 1/2 full with my regular potting mixture (part compost, grit, sand, mystery ingredients...), then placed the bulb w/roots, then filled the remainder with the coco coir that came with the bulb (discarding half, displaced by my potting mix). So, what to do next? I've heard that Hippaestrum can be marginally hardy if planted deep in a South facing bed. Anyone ever try pushing the limits of Hippaestrum hardiness? Any species naturally hardy? Thanks! Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From cortocora@gmail.com Tue, 23 Feb 2016 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "L. Cortopassi - G. Corazza" Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 19:00:25 +0100 I'm growing Hippeastrum papilio in my garden with no protection. Its bulbs are partly exposed or slightly underground and it takes temps down to 0°C/-2°C. It has leaves all year round. Sprekelia too is growing there, so as many South African bulbs. Gianluca Corazza, Italy, Z9 2016-02-23 2:43 GMT+01:00 Travis O : > So, to aid in moving away from the topic of jumping out of windows, I have > a genuine bulb question. > > I bought an "amaryllis" last fall, it flowered, and there is now one > robust 30" leaf remaining. When I potted it, I first filled the pot 1/2 > full with my regular potting mixture (part compost, grit, sand, mystery > ingredients...), then placed the bulb w/roots, then filled the remainder > with the coco coir that came with the bulb (discarding half, displaced by > my potting mix). So, what to do next? > > I've heard that Hippaestrum can be marginally hardy if planted deep in a > South facing bed. Anyone ever try pushing the limits of Hippaestrum > hardiness? Any species naturally hardy? > > Thanks! > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From btankers@gmail.com Tue, 23 Feb 2016 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Boyce Tankersley Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 13:59:18 -0600 I've successfully overwintered one of the Hippeastrum large flowered reddish orange cultivars and the cultivar 'Picotee' in USDA zone 5. Grayslake Illinois is about half way between Chicago, Illinois and Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Excess bulbs planted deep against the south wall of my home (basement doesn't freeze). This is the same location that Jim Shield's Crinum hybrids have established themselves and the only location that hybrid tea roses have proven to be reliably hardy. Haven't seen the Scilla peruviana (yes, I know the name has changed). Canna's are also hardy in this location. Like the realtor said, location, location, location ... in my case microclimate. Boyce Tankersley Director of Living Plant Documentation Chicago Botanic Garden USDA zone 5 On Mon, Feb 22, 2016 at 7:43 PM, Travis O wrote: > So, to aid in moving away from the topic of jumping out of windows, I have > a genuine bulb question. > > I bought an "amaryllis" last fall, it flowered, and there is now one > robust 30" leaf remaining. When I potted it, I first filled the pot 1/2 > full with my regular potting mixture (part compost, grit, sand, mystery > ingredients...), then placed the bulb w/roots, then filled the remainder > with the coco coir that came with the bulb (discarding half, displaced by > my potting mix). So, what to do next? > > I've heard that Hippaestrum can be marginally hardy if planted deep in a > South facing bed. Anyone ever try pushing the limits of Hippaestrum > hardiness? Any species naturally hardy? > > Thanks! > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pelarg@aol.com Tue, 23 Feb 2016 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1531000c230-34cb-199f4@webprd-m41.mail.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 16:19:58 -0500 How deep can hippeastrums be planted? I always thought the noses needed to be not too far below the surface, but if not maybe I will try some against a wall. This year both Scilla peruviana and Amaryllis belladonna (not planted especially deep) grew more foliage than last year because we had such a late start to winter and then had the foliage liquified by severe frost right after the New Year and again last week. Also destroyed advancing flowers on Narcissus Rijnvelds Early Sensation in the same location. All will likely survive, the Amaryllis belladonna will regrow more foliage come better weather, the scilla maybe not as much. Narcissus will be fine but no flowers this year, and ones planted in my home garden this fall arent very far up yet. Ernie in NY Z 6/7, where snowflakes may be turning to raindrops as I write. Galanthus, early crocus, and eranthis are up. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue, 23 Feb 2016 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 16:18:39 -0600 Dear PBS friends, I am surprised that no one has mentioned H. x. johnsonii. I have always read and considered this the hardiest species (actually an old hybrid). I have grown it here in my Zone 5/6 garden in the ground for years. It is planted quite deep (for a Hipp) and in not very protected spots. It is not a great bloomer or vigorous, but it does survive, grow and bloom. I recall seeing beds of this in Dallas where it was larger, more floriferous and beautiful. Have not seen this sold in local garden centers, but it is fairly common in Wichita KS garden centers where it is modestly priced. Best Jim W. From k.preteroti@verizon.net Tue, 23 Feb 2016 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kenneth Preteroti Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 17:23:02 -0500 Interesting Boyce. The issue here in NJ isn't just the cold it is the wet. We will have dry cold weather which you can protect plants/bulbs with mulch. Then we have 40-50 deg with rain followed by single digits. Tough conditions. Do your bulbs planted next to the basement, sunny side I assume, have to deal with wet conditions? Ken P Old Bridge, NJ Zone 6 b From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Tue, 23 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 18:18:09 -0500 How deep is deep ? On Tue, Feb 23, 2016 at 5:23 PM, Kenneth Preteroti wrote: > Interesting Boyce. The issue here in NJ isn't just the cold it is the wet. > We will have dry cold weather which you can protect plants/bulbs with > mulch. Then we have 40-50 deg with rain followed by single digits. Tough > conditions. Do your bulbs planted next to the basement, sunny side I > assume, have to deal with wet conditions? > > Ken P > Old Bridge, NJ > Zone 6 b > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com From jim_jenny@activ8.net.au Tue, 23 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Jim & Jenny Heffernan" Subject: Fw: Removal from list Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 10:43:49 +1100 Please remove me from the mailing list as well. I have tried all the ways I can find on your system already! -----Original Message----- From: Brenton Playford Sent: Monday, February 22, 2016 7:14 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Removal from list Please remove me from the mailing list Cheers Brenton Playford botanicfanatic@gmail.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Tue, 23 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 16:01:21 -0800 @ Boyce - How deep were your Hippeastrum planted? I do have a raised bed where Hymenocallis 'Festalis' survives, though it doesn't flower reliably. It was planted quite deep, with mostly sand added to the planting hole. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue, 23 Feb 2016 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <56296856-E6F2-4587-80B4-7D178F252A22@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 16:39:07 -0800 Jim is right about the hardiness of this hybrid. Growing up in Austin, Texas, back when it would get into the teens °F at least once every other winter on average, there were old, large beds of this that thrived and bloomed every spring. Even if the leaves burned back, the bulbs were fine. And they weren’t buried deep; the “noses” were just above the soil surface. I never saw it for sale in the nurseries however. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > On Feb 23, 2016, at 2:18 PM, James Waddick wrote: > > Dear PBS friends, > > I am surprised that no one has mentioned H. x. johnsonii. I have always read and considered this the hardiest species (actually an old hybrid). I have grown it here in my Zone 5/6 garden in the ground for years. It is planted quite deep (for a Hipp) and in not very protected spots. It is not a great bloomer or vigorous, but it does survive, grow and bloom. > > I recall seeing beds of this in Dallas where it was larger, more floriferous and beautiful. > > Have not seen this sold in local garden centers, but it is fairly common in Wichita KS garden centers where it is modestly priced. > > Best Jim W. > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue, 23 Feb 2016 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <48E98868-A270-4341-BE82-30668CFDED40@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 17:33:24 -0800 Something to keep in mind about some of the Hippeastrum species (and in fact any plant species) from the Mata Atlântica of southeastern Brazil (in the areas surrounding São Paulo) is that they are naturally adapted to withstanding freezing temperatures a few degrees below 0°C. Mauro Peixoto, who lives and gardens in Mogi das Cruzes, has been measuring the temperature at his place (at about 2500 ft a.s.l.) for decades and up until global climate change started making inroads to the climate in his area, he regularly measured at least one night every winter where the temperature reached 0°C and occasionally a couple of degrees colder than that. One winter it reached -5°C. This killed a number of his orchids from more northerly climes in his shade house, which is not heated. But did absolutely nothing to anything, including orchids, from the general regions around where he lives. So there is already some built-in resistance to a few degrees of freezing in the Hippeastrum from that area. There are also some Hippeastrum species from further south into Uruguay and Argentina. These might naturally be able to withstand even more occasional freezing, depending on if those areas see even colder winter temperatures on occasion For the past 20 years Mauro has never seen it get colder than +4°C. And he lives quite a ways out in the countryside, so it’s not due to the heat island effect that growing cities produce. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > On Feb 22, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Travis O wrote: > > > I've heard that Hippaestrum can be marginally hardy if planted deep in a South facing bed. Anyone ever try pushing the limits of Hippaestrum hardiness? Any species naturally hardy? > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Tue, 23 Feb 2016 19:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 18:54:26 -0800 Thank you, Lee, and everyone else. I'm technically in USDA zone 7b, we experience the occasional dip to -12c, often without snow cover, and it is always wet in Winter. Deciduous species would probably fare better, I assume. I'd love to try some of the hardy species should anyone have seed/offsets to trade. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Tue, 23 Feb 2016 19:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 22:00:54 -0500 So how deep are you guys planting them in the colder zones (5-6?) On Tue, Feb 23, 2016 at 9:54 PM, Travis O wrote: > Thank you, Lee, and everyone else. I'm technically in USDA zone 7b, we > experience the occasional dip to -12c, often without snow cover, and it is > always wet in Winter. Deciduous species would probably fare better, I > assume. > > I'd love to try some of the hardy species should anyone have seed/offsets > to trade. > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com From eez55@earthlink.net Tue, 23 Feb 2016 22:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <380-22016232452113953@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2016 22:21:13 -0700 I'm glad Jim Waddick mentioned Hippeastrum x johnsonii as one of the hardiest garden amaryllises. Scott Ogden (Garden Bulbs for the South) lists this as an old (ca. 1810) hybrid of H reginae and H. vittatum. Thad Howard (Bulbs for Warm Climates) said he was "amazed to find H. vittatum growing in sandy woodlands (in Brazil) at a depth of 6-8 inches." I used to live in Augusta, Georgia, and H. x johnsonii grew very well there. The large Hippeastrum hybrids also did well. This doesn't surprise me since the ground rarely froze during the winter, and when it did, I doubt that frost penetrated deeper than an inch. Augusta receives rain year round, so I don't think H. x johnsonii and other Hippeastrum hybrids require a dry dormancy -- a dry dormancy may actually be harmful. I've seen H. x johnsonii bulbs and seed offered on Ebay; the bulbs seemed overpriced to me. In zone 7 Oregon, it would be an interesting experiment to plant some inexpensive Hippeastrum hybrids deeply (say, in a 10 inch hole) and see how they survive. Eugene Zielinski Prescott Valley, AZ USA > [Original Message] > From: The Silent Seed > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Date: 2/23/2016 8:01:01 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum cold hardiness > > So how deep are you guys planting them in the colder zones (5-6?) > > > On Tue, Feb 23, 2016 at 9:54 PM, Travis O wrote: > > > Thank you, Lee, and everyone else. I'm technically in USDA zone 7b, we > > experience the occasional dip to -12c, often without snow cover, and it is > > always wet in Winter. Deciduous species would probably fare better, I > > assume. > > > > I'd love to try some of the hardy species should anyone have seed/offsets > > to trade. > > > > Travis Owen > > Rogue River, OR > > > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > > > _______________________________________________ From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 01:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 09:48:16 +0100 I have planted Hippeastrum 'Red Lion' (32/34 size), 60 cm deep. This means the top of the bulb from the soil level. It survived in Z5a, but never flowered. It was in half shade in a very damp location. Leaves emerged in mid August. It came back the second year, but not in the third. After this experiment i have never tried it outside. Regards, Janos Hungary From npublici@yahoo.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 05:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <1502101620.9366526.1456317422298.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Del Allegood Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 12:37:02 +0000 (UTC) Papilio is variable.It stays evergreen more often than not,in the Tampa bay area.If it gets too hot it will go dormant.If the leaves get burned off from cold, it will often go dormant.If it gets too much water in either of these circumstances,the bulb will rot.Papilio grows best in cooler months. Its natural dormancy is in the heat of summer.It may not lose its leaves,but it is still dormant.I have found that Vittatum is hard to kill. Del  On Wednesday, February 24, 2016 12:22 AM, Eugene Zielinski wrote: I'm glad Jim Waddick mentioned Hippeastrum x johnsonii as one of the hardiest garden amaryllises.  Scott Ogden (Garden Bulbs for the South) lists this as an old (ca. 1810) hybrid of H reginae and H. vittatum.  Thad Howard (Bulbs for Warm Climates) said he was "amazed to find H. vittatum growing in sandy woodlands (in Brazil) at a depth of 6-8 inches." I used to live in Augusta, Georgia, and H. x johnsonii grew very well there.  The large Hippeastrum hybrids also did well.  This doesn't surprise me since the ground rarely froze during the winter, and when it did, I doubt that frost penetrated deeper than an inch.  Augusta receives rain year round, so I don't think H. x johnsonii and other Hippeastrum hybrids require a dry dormancy -- a dry dormancy may actually be harmful.  I've seen H. x johnsonii bulbs and seed offered on Ebay; the bulbs seemed overpriced to me. In zone 7 Oregon, it would be an interesting experiment to plant some inexpensive Hippeastrum hybrids deeply (say, in a 10 inch hole) and see how they survive. Eugene Zielinski Prescott Valley, AZ USA > [Original Message] > From: The Silent Seed > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Date: 2/23/2016 8:01:01 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum cold hardiness > > So how deep are you guys planting them in the colder zones (5-6?) > > > On Tue, Feb 23, 2016 at 9:54 PM, Travis O wrote: > > > Thank you, Lee, and everyone else. I'm technically in USDA zone 7b, we > > experience the occasional dip to -12c, often without snow cover, and it is > > always wet in Winter. Deciduous species would probably fare better, I > > assume. > > > > I'd love to try some of the hardy species should anyone have seed/offsets > > to trade. > > > > Travis Owen > > Rogue River, OR > > > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > > > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From nickplummer@gmail.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 06:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nicholas plummer Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 08:59:50 -0500 The old Mead hybrids with a lot of H. vittatum in their background are supposedly very hardy. Plant Delights had some for sale last year. They're now sold out, but I suspect that a lot of what is labeled H. vittatum in the trade are actually these hybrids. I put the Mead hybrid and H. xjohnsonii in the ground last year, so it's too soon to say how well they will do in my garden (Zone 7, North Carolina)--if they don't survive, I will really regret not keeping an offset of the Mead hybrid in a pot. The red Rhodophiala bifida does fine in my garden and is sort of like a miniature Hippeastrum. Foliage is still green after -9.5 C this winter, and the bulbs have survived -15 C for short periods. Nick On Wed, Feb 24, 2016 at 12:21 AM, Eugene Zielinski wrote: > I'm glad Jim Waddick mentioned Hippeastrum x johnsonii as one of the > hardiest garden amaryllises. Scott Ogden (Garden Bulbs for the South) > lists this as an old (ca. 1810) hybrid of H reginae and H. vittatum. Thad > Howard (Bulbs for Warm Climates) said he was "amazed to find H. vittatum > growing in sandy woodlands (in Brazil) at a depth of 6-8 inches." > I used to live in Augusta, Georgia, and H. x johnsonii grew very well > there. The large Hippeastrum hybrids also did well. This doesn't surprise > me since the ground rarely froze during the winter, and when it did, I > doubt that frost penetrated deeper than an inch. Augusta receives rain > year round, so I don't think H. x johnsonii and other Hippeastrum hybrids > require a dry dormancy -- a dry dormancy may actually be harmful. I've > seen H. x johnsonii bulbs and seed offered on Ebay; the bulbs seemed > overpriced to me. > In zone 7 Oregon, it would be an interesting experiment to plant some > inexpensive Hippeastrum hybrids deeply (say, in a 10 inch hole) and see how > they survive. > > Eugene Zielinski > Prescott Valley, AZ > USA > From jimreese1@att.net Wed, 24 Feb 2016 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <016e01d16f26$57966710$06c33530$@net> From: "jimreese1" Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 11:10:59 -0600 It seems most of them are hardy in the ground down in Arkansas. It freezes every winter and snows. The leaves freeze back but bulbs survive. -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Lee Poulsen Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2016 7:33 PM To: PBS Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum cold hardiness Something to keep in mind about some of the Hippeastrum species (and in fact any plant species) from the Mata Atlântica of southeastern Brazil (in the areas surrounding São Paulo) is that they are naturally adapted to withstanding freezing temperatures a few degrees below 0°C. Mauro Peixoto, who lives and gardens in Mogi das Cruzes, has been measuring the temperature at his place (at about 2500 ft a.s.l.) for decades and up until global climate change started making inroads to the climate in his area, he regularly measured at least one night every winter where the temperature reached 0°C and occasionally a couple of degrees colder than that. One winter it reached -5°C. This killed a number of his orchids from more northerly climes in his shade house, which is not heated. But did absolutely nothing to anything, including orchids, from the general regions around where he lives. So there is already some built-in resistance to a few degrees of freezing in the Hippeastrum from that area. There are also some Hippeastrum species from further south into Uruguay and Argentina. These might naturally be able to withstand even more occasional freezing, depending on if those areas see even colder winter temperatures on occasion For the past 20 years Mauro has never seen it get colder than +4°C. And he lives quite a ways out in the countryside, so it’s not due to the heat island effect that growing cities produce. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > On Feb 22, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Travis O wrote: > > > I've heard that Hippaestrum can be marginally hardy if planted deep in a South facing bed. Anyone ever try pushing the limits of Hippaestrum hardiness? Any species naturally hardy? > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 11:42:02 -0800 @ Nick - I'd like to try Rhodophiala bifida. From reading past PBS list messages about Rhodophiala bifida it seems to like year-round moisture and full sun. It might just survive in my garden! I'd like to get more Amaryllidaceae in my garden, as the plants seem to be ignored by above and below ground herbivores (deer, voles). I mentioned before, Hymenocallis 'Festalis' overwintered successfully (supposed to be hardy to z8) but didn't flower, perhaps it will this year. In the beginning of 2015, I bought a bulb of Lycoris squamigera, which produced no leaves or anything last year. I assumed it had rotted away. This year, it has produced a beautiful fan of leaves so far! Hopefully it will flower... As for my single Hippaestrum 'Red Lion' bulb, I'm going to try my luck and plant it by the Hymenocallis. Who knows, maybe it will surprise us all. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Wed, 24 Feb 2016 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <56CE0C88.2070100@t-online.de> From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: Hardy Hippeastrum Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 21:03:20 +0100 Dear All, According to 'Bulbs' by Martyn Rix and Roger Phillips Hippeastrum argentinum is quite hardy. I do not know if anybody grows it but there is a Hybrid called Amputo which looks almost like H. argentinum. It is commercially available from time to time. I have a potful but have not tried for hardiness because my climate does not seem to be the one to test this. Amputo is very shy to flower with me but if it does: it has beautiful long white scented funnels. Bye dor today Uli From nickplummer@gmail.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nicholas plummer Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 15:17:39 -0500 Hi Travis, I definitely agree with you regarding the value of amaryllids in herbivore infested gardens. I have my R. bifida in a bed that is very hot and dry in the summer, but I think it would prefer a bit more moisture, particularly when flowering in early autumn. As far as I can tell, its requirements are pretty much identical to Lycoris radiata. I have been told that some Ismene 'Festalis' clones are shy of flowering. An unnamed clone over-winters fine but doesn't bloom for me. I planted 'Zwanenburg' last year and hope it is more floriferous. Some of the bulbs bloomed nicely in 5 gallon pots. I have Hymenocallis traubii in a pot and am thinking of planting it out in the garden, and I am impatiently waiting to see if Hymenocallis 'New Lion' and some Hymenocallis occidentalis survived the winter. Nick On Wed, Feb 24, 2016 at 2:42 PM, Travis O wrote: > @ Nick - > > I'd like to try Rhodophiala bifida. From reading past PBS list messages > about Rhodophiala bifida it seems to like year-round moisture and full sun. > It might just survive in my garden! I'd like to get more Amaryllidaceae in > my garden, as the plants seem to be ignored by above and below ground > herbivores (deer, voles). > > I mentioned before, Hymenocallis 'Festalis' overwintered successfully > (supposed to be hardy to z8) but didn't flower, perhaps it will this year. > > In the beginning of 2015, I bought a bulb of Lycoris squamigera, which > produced no leaves or anything last year. I assumed it had rotted away. > This year, it has produced a beautiful fan of leaves so far! Hopefully it > will flower... > > As for my single Hippaestrum 'Red Lion' bulb, I'm going to try my luck and > plant it by the Hymenocallis. Who knows, maybe it will surprise us all. > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 14:21:31 -0600 Dear PBS, Althought I do grow H. x johnsonii out doors, Rhodophiala by comparison IS NOT hardy for me. We generally have wettish winters - snow and cold rains. Soil is moisture retentive clay based. Best Jim W. On Feb 23, 2016, at 11:21 PM, Eugene Zielinski wrote: I'm glad Jim Waddick mentioned Hippeastrum x johnsonii as one of the hardiest garden amaryllises. Scott Ogden (Garden Bulbs for the South) lists this as an old (ca. 1810) hybrid of H reginae and H. vittatum. Thad Howard (Bulbs for Warm Climates) said he was "amazed to find H. vittatum growing in sandy woodlands (in Brazil) at a depth of 6-8 inches." I used to live in Augusta, Georgia, and H. x johnsonii grew very well there. Eugene Zielinski Prescott Valley, AZ USA James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From jgglatt@gmail.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <56CE1A0D.5080403@gmail.com> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Hardy Hippeastrum Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 16:01:01 -0500 The replies so far have all been focused on temperature. That is certainly an important consideration. However - I think soil type / drainage is at least equally important. My New Jersey garden has a heavy clay-ish soil. No idea why Fritillaria imperialis is happy and multiplying by offsets but let's just ignore it for the nonce. My Connecticut garden of happy memory had that mythical high organic, moist but well drained gardener's holy grail and everything grew wonderfully well. My opinion - cold wet soil will kill geophytes that would have survived equally cold but better drained soil. Judy in New Jersey where today is - again - overcast with rain, rain, rain (at least it doesn't need shoveling) and the first galanthus and eranthis are in bloom From btankers@gmail.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Boyce Tankersley Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 16:59:45 -0600 Hi All: The tops of the Amaryllis are a couple of inches below the soil. The Hippeastrums in this bed are interplanted with a number of woody taxa that help with keeping the soils from being too wet during the growing season after the bulbs have flowered and gone dormant. The typical freeze line is 18" in this climate so the proximity of the heat from the basement wall is the modifying factor I think. Those planted further than 8" from the basement wall have not returned. This discussion has increased my interest in trying some of the species/hybrids with better hardiness reputations! Many thanks, Boyce Tankersley On Wed, Feb 24, 2016 at 2:21 PM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear PBS, > > Althought I do grow H. x johnsonii out doors, Rhodophiala by > comparison IS NOT hardy for me. > > We generally have wettish winters - snow and cold rains. Soil is > moisture retentive clay based. > > Best Jim W. > > > On Feb 23, 2016, at 11:21 PM, Eugene Zielinski > wrote: > > I'm glad Jim Waddick mentioned Hippeastrum x johnsonii as one of the > hardiest garden amaryllises. Scott Ogden (Garden Bulbs for the South) > lists this as an old (ca. 1810) hybrid of H reginae and H. vittatum. Thad > Howard (Bulbs for Warm Climates) said he was "amazed to find H. vittatum > growing in sandy woodlands (in Brazil) at a depth of 6-8 inches." > I used to live in Augusta, Georgia, and H. x johnsonii grew very well > there. > > > Eugene Zielinski > Prescott Valley, AZ > USA > > > > > James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone 816-746-1949 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From btankers@gmail.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Boyce Tankersley Subject: Hardy Hippeastrum Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 17:01:13 -0600 Amen. Panyoti K. at Denver B.G. can grow any number of things in their cold dry winter climate that turn to mush here. Boyce Tankersley On Wed, Feb 24, 2016 at 3:01 PM, Judy Glattstein wrote: > The replies so far have all been focused on temperature. That is certainly > an important consideration. However - I think soil type / drainage is at > least equally important. > > My New Jersey garden has a heavy clay-ish soil. No idea why Fritillaria > imperialis is happy and multiplying by offsets but let's just ignore it for > the nonce. > > My Connecticut garden of happy memory had that mythical high organic, > moist but well drained gardener's holy grail and everything grew > wonderfully well. > > My opinion - cold wet soil will kill geophytes that would have survived > equally cold but better drained soil. > > Judy in New Jersey where today is - again - overcast with rain, rain, rain > (at least it doesn't need shoveling) and the first galanthus and eranthis > are in bloom > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From alciemaxwell@gmail.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 19:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alcie Subject: Amaryllis belladonna bulbs available..and other questions... Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 20:17:04 -0600 Hello everyone, I have some large bulbs of Amaryllis belladonna available. I got them in a trade, and I received too many. I have four bulbs. They are the following sizes: 30cm, 25cm, 25cm, and 14cm. I’m new to growing bulbs, so I’m not sure if these are blooming size. Are they? (I have a couple of 30cm bulbs myself, and I’d like to know if I can expect them to bloom this year.) I’d be happy to give the bulbs away if you cover the cost of shipping. Or, I can trade. I have an interest in species to Hymenocallis, Cryptostephanus, Crinum, and Allium. I’m new though, so that list isn’t set in stone. Just shoot me a message, and we can go from there. Alcie In northwest Louisiana (USA) Zone 8b 32nd Parallel North _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From robin@hansennursery.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 19:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <002101d16f79$24445900$6ccd0b00$@hansennursery.com> From: "Hansen Nursery" Subject: Hardy Hippeastrum Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 19:03:45 -0800 I absolutely agree. I grow many of the species of cyclamen and figured out very quickly that it's not soil but degree of dryness, even in pots, in winter. I've had all sorts of tender species such as africanum, persicum and yes, even rolfsianum, survive to 12 degrees F because I tend to underwater in winter (in pots, mind you). The rolfsianum and others that I really worry about are also in a very quick-draining mix, although I never let them dry completely out which is a quick way to lose them. Robin Hansen Nursery robin@hansennursery.com Cool Mediterranean, Zone 9 From voltaire@islandnet.com Wed, 24 Feb 2016 19:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1FA367F5-1C3E-427B-B1B4-D9B1E848A414@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Hardy Hippeastrum from Tony Avent Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 19:10:12 -0800 > From: Tony Avent > Date: February 24, 2016 1:15:52 PM PST > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: RE: [pbs] Hardy Hippeastrum > > > Hippeastrum ‘Amputo’ has been winter hardy for us in a very unprotected site since 2003, with a low of 9 degrees F during that period. > > Tony Avent > Proprietor > tony@plantdelights.com > Juniper Level Botanic Garden and Plant Delights Nursery > Ph 919.772.4794/fx 919.772.4752 > 9241 Sauls Road, Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA > USDA Zone 7b/Winter 0-5 F/Summer 95-105F > "Preserving, Studying, Propagating, and Sharing the World’s Flora” > > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 25 Feb 2016 07:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1465186587.2348784.1456410842279.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Things are popping! Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 14:34:02 +0000 (UTC) Although we're only two-thirds through winter and have almost a full month to go  (and a month and a half to the likely last-freeze date) things are popping here. Yesterday afternoon a wood frog began to call from the garden pool, and the peepers and other chorus frogs won't be far behind. Early morning birdsong has increased dramatically during the last two weeks: now cardinals, blue jays, wrens, chickadees, titmice and mourning doves are all going to town. Red-bellied woodpeckers now chortle daily, and a noisy pileated woodpecker flew through yesterday, probably just to remind them who's boss.  The first robin flocks passed through during the first week of February (as they usually do). These early arrivers among the robins (and leavers - they are on their way north) all seem to be males. Plant-wise, all of the first earlies are at their peak: snowdrops, winter aconites, early crocuses, Colchicum hungaricum, pansies, winter jasmine, winter honeysuckle, witch hazels, protected Camellia japonica, Helleborus foetidus, H. niger, garden hellebores and others I've probably overlooked.  In the frames, Cyclamen coum, Iris unguicularis and I. cretensis are blooming freely.Forget the calendar, spring is here (at least this week).Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 where we had only a few hours of zone 7 temperatures this year.   _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From sipos.barna@gmail.com Thu, 25 Feb 2016 07:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Barna Sipos Subject: Narcissus with Striped Leaves Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 15:39:53 +0100 Dear All, In the last few years a few Narcissus ‘Salome’ is developing white striped leaves. I am not sure if it is a virus or not. Please let me know what it can be. I did not find similar images on the net. The photos are here: https://flic.kr/p/Dwjioi https://flic.kr/p/DwjjGR Thanks for the help! Barna From dkramb@badbear.com Thu, 25 Feb 2016 07:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 09:42:19 -0500 Once placed in Family Amaryllidaceae is one of my favorite natives, Hypoxis hirsuta. It only grows a few inches tall and produces lovely yellow flowers. It is, of course, perfectly hardy. :-) Apparently taxonomists recently created a new family for it, Hypoxidaceae. But I still like to think of it as a perfectly hardy amaryllid. :-P Taxonomists always trying to spoil my fun... Dennis in Cincinnati From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 25 Feb 2016 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <2012973225.2475893.1456426098372.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Harry Dewey Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 18:48:18 +0000 (UTC) Harry Dewey, founder of the Alpine-L listserv, has died. His obituary appeared today in the Washington Post; he was 95. He passed away on Wednesday, February 17.Jim McKenney _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From k.preteroti@verizon.net Thu, 25 Feb 2016 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <5D57EA10-09FD-474C-A001-CE2C28137647@verizon.net> From: Kenneth Preteroti Subject: Narcissus with Striped Leaves Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 14:15:05 -0500 I hope it is not a virus. I think the stripes look very nice. Maybe you have a new cultivar. Ken P Old Bridge, NJ Zone 6 b From xerantheum@gmail.com Thu, 25 Feb 2016 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Call for applications - 2016 MSI Grant for Bulb Studies Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 12:32:50 -0800 Dear PBS members, This is a call for application for the 2016 Mary Sue Ittner Grant for Bulb Studies. This grant is set up to support anyone interested in learning more about bulbs. It may be used to support any type of research, including field-work. It is available to paid PBS members world-wide, and you may apply for membership when you submit your application. The award amount is $500 USD. The deadline for this year is April 15, 2013. The complete announcement, conditions, and additional information can be downloaded here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/grant.html If you are a member of other geophytic societies/group, please pass on this announcement to help us spread the words. Thanks and we hope to receive a lot of applications. Sincerely, Nhu Nguyen President, PBS From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Thu, 25 Feb 2016 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Narcissus with Striped Leaves Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 21:52:48 +0100 Dear Barna, I have seen virus infected daffodlis, and this looks different. Sometimes there is an error in plastids and it losts the chlorophyll or the cell loses the entire plastid. This usually goes un-noticed unless the error happens at the meristem. When bleached and normal tissues grow together it is called a chimera. On the second picture you can see that the 3rd leaf has 3 white stirpes, the middle one has a few green isles in it. There are also normal green leaves. Wait a few years, if you're lucky you may be albe to stabilize the chmiera, and you may end up with a variegated salome. You may also lose the chimera, the tissues separate and you may have a totally albino plant and normal green ones. Keep us posted from the results! Regards, Janos Z5a, Hungary 2016-02-25 15:39 GMT+01:00 Barna Sipos : > Dear All, > > In the last few years a few Narcissus ‘Salome’ is developing white striped > leaves. > I am not sure if it is a virus or not. Please let me know what it can be. > I did not find similar images on the net. > The photos are here: > https://flic.kr/p/Dwjioi > https://flic.kr/p/DwjjGR > > Thanks for the help! > Barna > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From plantsman@comcast.net Thu, 25 Feb 2016 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <20160225210229.98F72B6D@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Nathan Lange Subject: Narcissus with Striped Leaves Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 13:02:06 -0800 Hi Barna, Congratulations, you very likely have a truly variegated Narcissus. This type of variegation is not indicative of virus. Of course, this plant could still test positive for virus just as easily as any other non-variegated plant but a positive test for virus would not mean that the cause of the variegation is viral. This type of variegation could be unstable but hopefully it will persist and be consistently propagated into future daughter bulbs. Fortunately, it looks like you already have more than one variegated plant. Nathan At 06:39 AM 2/25/2016, you wrote: >Dear All, > >In the last few years a few Narcissus 'Salome' is developing white >striped leaves. >I am not sure if it is a virus or not. Please let me know what it >can be. I did not find similar images on the net. >The photos are here: >https://flic.kr/p/Dwjioi >https://flic.kr/p/DwjjGR > >Thanks for the help! >Barna From enoster@hotmail.com Thu, 25 Feb 2016 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 21:23:29 -0800 @ Dennis - Hypoxis hirsuta sounds great, but is it toxic? The more toxic the better! I've recently sown seed for a few species of Aconitum and have two species of Toxicoscordion (formerly Zigadenus, see the PBS wiki for updated taxonomic info on it). Amaryllids are also nice, but I have far too few. I just planted Leucojum last fall, I struggle with success with Galanthus. Though all Amaryllidaceae are considered toxic, do deer eat any of them in gardens (besides a nibble)? Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From voltaire@islandnet.com Thu, 25 Feb 2016 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Narcissus with Striped Leaves from Tony Avent Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 22:04:04 -0800 > From: Tony Avent > > Very nice find! > > > Tony Avent > Proprietor > tony@plantdelights.com > Juniper Level Botanic Garden and Plant Delights Nursery > Ph 919.772.4794/fx 919.772.4752 > 9241 Sauls Road, Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA > USDA Zone 7b/Winter 0-5 F/Summer 95-105F > "Preserving, Studying, Propagating, and Sharing the World’s Flora” > > From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Fri, 26 Feb 2016 06:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <56D0505F.9070005@btinternet.com> From: youngs Subject: New issue of IRG Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2016 13:17:19 +0000 The February issue of IRG (International Rock Gardener e-magazine) is online...... http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2016Feb261456445173IRG74.pdf News of the North American Rock Garden Society's planned event at Steamboat Springs this June which we are happy to promote and wish every success ....... Jānis Rukšāns discusses Crocus taxonomy ....... and Grahame Ware enthuses over /Campanula coriacea/ ....... And, as ever- an updated index http://files.srgc.net/journals/IRG-Index.pdf M. Young. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pamela@polson.com Fri, 26 Feb 2016 08:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Pamela Harlow Subject: Hippeastrum cold hardiness Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2016 07:48:56 -0800 They're hard on agapanthus. It wouldn't hurt to differentiate between white-tailed deer and mule/black-tailed deer. We (Seattle) have black-tailed deer. From what I've read, white-tailed deer persecute conifers and rhododendrons, which ours won't touch. Not that ours are polite. Perhaps if people specify which species they are harboring, we will learn other feeding differences. On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 9:23 PM, Travis O wrote: > @ Dennis - > > Hypoxis hirsuta sounds great, but is it toxic? The more toxic the better! > I've recently sown seed for a few species of Aconitum and have two species > of Toxicoscordion (formerly Zigadenus, see the PBS wiki for updated > taxonomic info on it). Amaryllids are also nice, but I have far too few. I > just planted Leucojum last fall, I struggle with success with Galanthus. > > Though all Amaryllidaceae are considered toxic, do deer eat any of them in > gardens (besides a nibble)? > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Fri, 26 Feb 2016 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: Seeking these species Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2016 15:33:31 -0500 If anyone can help, let me know. Scadoxus nutans, S. cinnabarinus, S. pseudocaulos, and any of the known hybrids. Thanks in advance. -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com From j.joschko@gmx.de Sat, 27 Feb 2016 02:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <001601d17140$a7f741e0$f7e5c5a0$@gmx.de> From: "Hans Joschko" Subject: fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 10:24:26 +0100 Hi all , if anybody is interested for seeds of Pamianthe peruviana please look here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14086.0 Kind regards Hans From r.ekkes@upcmail.nl Sat, 27 Feb 2016 03:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <56d17fa4.495fc20a.2976f.ffffa775SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> From: "r.ekkes" Subject: fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 11:50:50 +0100 Hai Iàm interested for seeds Gr.Ruud, the Netherlands -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Hans Joschko Verzonden: zaterdag 27 februari 2016 10:24 Aan: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Onderwerp: [pbs] fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Hi all , if anybody is interested for seeds of Pamianthe peruviana please look here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14086.0 Kind regards Hans --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From iranaquatic@yahoo.ca Sat, 27 Feb 2016 03:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1903642186.198429.1456571325345.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Mohammad Sadegh Subject: fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 11:08:45 +0000 (UTC) what kind of seeds ?  Mohammad SadeghArdabil ,Iran On Saturday, February 27, 2016 2:20 PM, r.ekkes wrote: Hai Iàm interested for seeds Gr.Ruud, the Netherlands -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Hans Joschko Verzonden: zaterdag 27 februari 2016 10:24 Aan: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Onderwerp: [pbs] fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Hi all , if anybody is interested for seeds of Pamianthe peruviana please look here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14086.0 Kind regards Hans --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From iranaquatic@yahoo.ca Sat, 27 Feb 2016 03:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <104078443.248398.1456571431516.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Mohammad Sadegh Subject: fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 11:10:31 +0000 (UTC) Sorry my mistake . Mohammad SadeghArdabil ,Iran On Saturday, February 27, 2016 2:38 PM, Mohammad Sadegh wrote: what kind of seeds ?  Mohammad SadeghArdabil ,Iran     On Saturday, February 27, 2016 2:20 PM, r.ekkes wrote: Hai Iàm interested for seeds Gr.Ruud, the Netherlands -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Hans Joschko Verzonden: zaterdag 27 februari 2016 10:24 Aan: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Onderwerp: [pbs] fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Hi all , if anybody is interested for seeds of Pamianthe peruviana please look here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14086.0 Kind regards Hans --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus   _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From j.joschko@gmx.de Sat, 27 Feb 2016 04:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <003a01d17152$2c3828f0$84a87ad0$@gmx.de> From: "Hans Joschko" Subject: fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 12:29:50 +0100 Hi Ruud , please write me a PM or give me your email adress Thanks Hans -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----- Von: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Im Auftrag von r.ekkes Gesendet: Samstag, 27. Februar 2016 11:51 An: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Betreff: Re: [pbs] fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Hai Iàm interested for seeds Gr.Ruud, the Netherlands -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Hans Joschko Verzonden: zaterdag 27 februari 2016 10:24 Aan: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Onderwerp: [pbs] fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Hi all , if anybody is interested for seeds of Pamianthe peruviana please look here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14086.0 Kind regards Hans --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From r.ekkes@upcmail.nl Sat, 27 Feb 2016 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <56d1cd00.55dc1c0a.514ab.ffff9174SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> From: "r.ekkes" Subject: fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 17:20:39 +0100 Hoi Hans Mailadres is r.ekkes@upcmail.nl Gr. Ruud -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Hans Joschko Verzonden: zaterdag 27 februari 2016 12:30 Aan: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Onderwerp: Re: [pbs] fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Hi Ruud , please write me a PM or give me your email adress Thanks Hans -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----- Von: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Im Auftrag von r.ekkes Gesendet: Samstag, 27. Februar 2016 11:51 An: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Betreff: Re: [pbs] fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Hai Iàm interested for seeds Gr.Ruud, the Netherlands -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Hans Joschko Verzonden: zaterdag 27 februari 2016 10:24 Aan: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Onderwerp: [pbs] fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Hi all , if anybody is interested for seeds of Pamianthe peruviana please look here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14086.0 Kind regards Hans --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Sat, 27 Feb 2016 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 11:22:25 -0500 I've written to you directly in case you missed it. Thank you. On Sat, Feb 27, 2016 at 11:20 AM, r.ekkes wrote: > Hoi Hans > Mailadres is r.ekkes@upcmail.nl > Gr. Ruud > > -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > Van: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Hans Joschko > Verzonden: zaterdag 27 februari 2016 12:30 > Aan: 'Pacific Bulb Society' > Onderwerp: Re: [pbs] fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana > > Hi Ruud , > > please write me a PM or give me your email adress > > Thanks > Hans > > > > -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----- > Von: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Im Auftrag von r.ekkes > Gesendet: Samstag, 27. Februar 2016 11:51 > An: 'Pacific Bulb Society' > Betreff: Re: [pbs] fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana > > Hai > Iàm interested for seeds > > Gr.Ruud, the Netherlands > > -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > Van: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Hans Joschko > Verzonden: zaterdag 27 februari 2016 10:24 > Aan: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Onderwerp: [pbs] fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana > > Hi all , > > > > if anybody is interested for seeds of Pamianthe peruviana > > please look here : > > http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14086.0 > > > > Kind regards > > Hans > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > --- > Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > --- > Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ksayce@willapabay.org Sat, 27 Feb 2016 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <5B03797F-C72B-4400-8232-A8901328641E@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: black-tailed deer Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 08:58:24 -0800 On the PNW coast, black-tailed deer eat rhodie flower buds, they can strip the flowers to be in minutes, right in front of your eyes, and they also nibble hard on Douglas-fir and western red cedar shoots. Big-leaf maple is another target, as is vine maple. To grow all these trees, you have to protect them until they are more than 7 ft tall. They leave crocus and daffodils alone, however. A BT deer ate the budding shoot of my lone surviving grown from seed Eremerus one year. Kathleen From jacque@book-woman.net Sat, 27 Feb 2016 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jacqueline Greenleaf Subject: black-tailed deer Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 09:57:18 -0800 Slightly OT, but funny. The local BT doe who frequents my backyard just *loves* my wasabi plants. > On Feb 27, 2016, at 8:58 AM, Kathleen Sayce wrote: > > On the PNW coast, black-tailed deer eat rhodie flower buds, they can strip the flowers to be in minutes, right in front of your eyes, and they also nibble hard on Douglas-fir and western red cedar shoots. Big-leaf maple is another target, as is vine maple. To grow all these trees, you have to protect them until they are more than 7 ft tall. They leave crocus and daffodils alone, however. A BT deer ate the budding shoot of my lone surviving grown from seed Eremerus one year. > > Kathleen > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From makikogotowiderman@me.com Sat, 27 Feb 2016 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Makiko Goto-Widerman Subject: black-tailed deer Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 14:10:20 -0800 Do you grow Wasabi plant? You have a running creek in your back yard? Just curious. Makiko Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 27, 2016, at 9:57 AM, Jacqueline Greenleaf wrote: > > Slightly OT, but funny. > > The local BT doe who frequents my backyard just *loves* my wasabi plants. > > >> On Feb 27, 2016, at 8:58 AM, Kathleen Sayce wrote: >> >> On the PNW coast, black-tailed deer eat rhodie flower buds, they can strip the flowers to be in minutes, right in front of your eyes, and they also nibble hard on Douglas-fir and western red cedar shoots. Big-leaf maple is another target, as is vine maple. To grow all these trees, you have to protect them until they are more than 7 ft tall. They leave crocus and daffodils alone, however. A BT deer ate the budding shoot of my lone surviving grown from seed Eremerus one year. >> >> Kathleen >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jacque@book-woman.net Sat, 27 Feb 2016 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <08286F14-C6A9-44D2-9FEC-A9993B2D52D6@book-woman.net> From: Jacqueline Greenleaf Subject: black-tailed deer Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 15:34:46 -0800 No, I grow three plants in an earth box (http://earthbox.com) in full shade on the north side of my house. If night temps get below 38 or so, I bring the box into the house. They do fine. I don’t get a lot, but then I don’t need a lot! I’m in the Seattle area, so they generally like the climate just fine. They get tired and a bit tattered July-Sept, but perk right up when the cooler days start again. > On Feb 27, 2016, at 2:10 PM, Makiko Goto-Widerman wrote: > > Do you grow Wasabi plant? You have a running creek in your back yard? Just curious. > > Makiko > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Feb 27, 2016, at 9:57 AM, Jacqueline Greenleaf wrote: >> >> Slightly OT, but funny. >> >> The local BT doe who frequents my backyard just *loves* my wasabi plants. >> >> >>> On Feb 27, 2016, at 8:58 AM, Kathleen Sayce wrote: >>> >>> On the PNW coast, black-tailed deer eat rhodie flower buds, they can strip the flowers to be in minutes, right in front of your eyes, and they also nibble hard on Douglas-fir and western red cedar shoots. Big-leaf maple is another target, as is vine maple. To grow all these trees, you have to protect them until they are more than 7 ft tall. They leave crocus and daffodils alone, however. A BT deer ate the budding shoot of my lone surviving grown from seed Eremerus one year. >>> >>> Kathleen >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Sun, 28 Feb 2016 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: black-tailed deer Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2016 08:23:47 -0800 We have black tailed deer in SW OR, they definitely eat Crocus, and have even nibbled Allium, Muscari, and Narcissus. Whatever they don't like they try and pull out of the ground out of spite. Colchicum is the only truly pest proof bulb I grow. Nothing seems too interested in Iris or Crocosmia, either. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From mikerumm@gmail.com Sun, 28 Feb 2016 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mike Rummerfield Subject: black-tailed deer Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2016 12:09:24 -0800 That reflects exactly my observation of deer damage on bulbs in western Washington, except here they usually nibble only the blossoms on Narcissus or bite the blossom off and leaving it lying on the ground (always accommodating, those deer!)- the majority of blossoms remain untouched. And Galanthus are also unmolested (although slugs munch on blossoms). Regards, Mike Washington State On Sun, Feb 28, 2016 at 8:23 AM, Travis O wrote: > We have black tailed deer in SW OR, they definitely eat Crocus, and have > even nibbled Allium, Muscari, and Narcissus. Whatever they don't like they > try and pull out of the ground out of spite. > > Colchicum is the only truly pest proof bulb I grow. Nothing seems too > interested in Iris or Crocosmia, either. > > Travis Owen > Rogue River, OR > > www.amateuranthecologist.com > www.pacificbulbsociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From barkingdogwoods@gmail.com Sun, 28 Feb 2016 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <023201d17278$f9cdc870$ed695950$@com> From: "Lin" Subject: black-tailed deer Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2016 16:40:07 -0600 Sadly the Texas leaf-cutting ants ate all the foliage off my daffodils and ipheion in the front yard - the daffs are now growing back and seem to be blooming, but I think I lost most of my starflower blooms. Cut ants are very interesting - they don't eat the leaves, instead they take them to their mounds to feed to a fungus that they cultivate, and then eat parts of the fungus. Their colonies can be huge underground. https://citybugs.tamu.edu/factsheets/landscape/ants/ent-1002/ The good news to me is cut ants seem to keep the fire ants away from my property. I'll gladly sacrifice leaves so I don't have fireants. Lin Grado East Texas -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Travis O Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2016 10:24 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] black-tailed deer We have black tailed deer in SW OR, they definitely eat Crocus, and have even nibbled Allium, Muscari, and Narcissus. Whatever they don't like they try and pull out of the ground out of spite. Colchicum is the only truly pest proof bulb I grow. Nothing seems too interested in Iris or Crocosmia, either. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From enoster@hotmail.com Sun, 28 Feb 2016 20:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: black-tailed deer Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2016 19:50:15 -0800 Lin, that is fascinating! I've read about those ants, but I wasn't aware they were in the US. We have leafcutter bees as well as leafcutter predatory solitary wasps. Neither defoliates a plant, but leaves large round holes instead. Leaf bits are used to partition their cells in linear nests in the ground or in wood. Both are useful as pollinators, the predatory wasps being additionally beneficial by preying on destructive pests like caterpillars and grasshoppers, or sometimes aphids for small species. To make this bulb related, both leafcutter bees and wasps visit bulbs from time to time. Wasps for instance have been attracted to some of my alliums for nectar and I've seen photos folks sent to me of various wasps nectaring on Fritillaria. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From j.joschko@gmx.de Mon, 29 Feb 2016 05:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <001901d172ed$45f206c0$d1d61440$@gmx.de> From: "Hans Joschko" Subject: fresh seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 13:32:35 +0100 Hello all , all seeds of Pamianthe peruviana are gone now - sorry Maybe next time .please watch this place The most seeds are sent out and I wish all a good germination Happy growing Hans From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon, 29 Feb 2016 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <2AB5671E-2F56-4D5E-9142-46CF40F46482@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: black-tailed deer - NOW OT Wasabi Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 13:56:11 -0600 Dear Makiko, I have grown Wasabi here in Kansas City with little trouble. I certainly do not have running water- barely have water. I followed guidance from a UK grower and have my plants in a gritty-mostly gravel mix sitting in shallow saucer. I water them regularly until the saucer fills. Stays in almost full shade year round and winters in a cool/frost free greenhouse. Drop me a note if you want more info. Best Jim On Feb 27, 2016, at 4:10 PM, Makiko Goto-Widerman wrote: Do you grow Wasabi plant? You have a running creek in your back yard? Just curious. Makiko From makikogotowiderman@me.com Mon, 29 Feb 2016 21:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <9F539AAE-E889-4691-80D4-7110E30CA4D5@me.com> From: Makiko Goto-Widerman Subject: black-tailed deer - NOW OT Wasabi Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 20:51:50 -0800 Hello Jim, I always wish to grow Wasabi, but unfortunately there is no chance to grow Wasabi so far. It does not grow here in Southern California. Long time before I visited a largest Wasabi Farm in Japan which was at the foothill of Japan Alps. They have a lot of snow in winter, and it is hot and humid in summer, similar to the climate in East Coast. They keep running natural water from the local river. A black shade protected the plants from direct sun. I found an interesting farm in NC which grows Wasabi in natural setting by the creek in the mountain. (https//www.mountaingardensherbs.com) Wild Wasabi in Japan must be growing by the creek in the mountain, moist but not soggy dump soil under filtered sun. I plan to move to East Coast this summer. Then I can grow Wasabi. Makiko On Feb 29, 2016, at 11:56 AM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Makiko, > > I have grown Wasabi here in Kansas City with little trouble. I certainly do not have running water- barely have water. > > I followed guidance from a UK grower and have my plants in a gritty-mostly gravel mix sitting in shallow saucer. I water them regularly until the saucer fills. > > Stays in almost full shade year round and winters in a cool/frost free greenhouse. > > Drop me a note if you want more info. Best Jim > > > > > > On Feb 27, 2016, at 4:10 PM, Makiko Goto-Widerman wrote: > > Do you grow Wasabi plant? You have a running creek in your back yard? Just curious. > > Makiko > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki