Steve, they are two different group.Parviflorum is strictly winter growing, you can grow in the same way of any Mediterranean species, it is rather easy in a well drained soil and full sun, it can cope a few degree of frost (mine got -2°C several times with no damage). Bulbs don't go deep in the ground, just the apex at soli level.Sickenbergerii is more similar to maritimum, it can stay evergreen in summer if there is enought moisture, but in cultivation it doesn't make very spirally leaves, it needs a gritty soil and the bulbs bury deep, it is more sensitive to basal rotting than parviflorum. Of both species I sent seeds to PBS in the past years.Tenuifolium is summer growing, it needs a long winter dry rest and I haven't made any attempt to grow in the ground here, because I think it is unable to withstand moisture during dormancy. I grow just one of this, in a tall deep pot from many years but still haven't got a flower even if the plant is very healthy.Angelo Porcelli
Apulia - Southern Italy
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 20:54:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Putman <putman@pobox.upenn.edu>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [pbs] Pancratium growing experience
Message-ID:
<1851823588.5739186.1430441674237.JavaMail.root@zimbra.upenn.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I am attempting to learn to grow some of the Middle eastern / African Pancratium. The ones I've managed to get hold of are P. tenuifolium, P. sickenbergeri, and P (Vagaria)parviflorum.
Do any of you have any experience with growing any of these? I would very much like to know what seem to be the best ways to do it.
Thanks, Steve Putman
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 21:40:36 -0400
From: From HK <hk@icarustrading.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [pbs] Palms with REAL zone protections
Message-ID:
<CAHmdUY7YRxe+kKa+gL2rXGtRaM2KFVvOpmP7tS=sjp3wUGdESw@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Does anyone have a good palm tree to recommend for Zone 7a that actually
survives?
I would very much like to hear of any suggestions on Palm trees north of
Zone 8.
Thank you
Heather
?
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 1 May 2015 01:50:27 +0000 (UTC)
From: aaron floden <aaron_floden@yahoo.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Palms with REAL zone protections
Message-ID:
<1450778427.86850.1430445027585.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
After two winters to -1F the only palms surviving here are Sabal minor selections, Rhaphidophyllum hystrix, and Trachycarpus nanus. Sadly all are extremely slow to form trunks here. All my Trachycarpus fortunei selections perished. I had some supposed takil x fortunei and those died too.
Aaron
east Tennessee
From: From HK <hk@icarustrading.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2015 9:40 PM
Subject: [pbs] Palms with REAL zone protections
Does anyone have a good palm tree to recommend for Zone 7a that actually
survives?
I would very much like to hear of any suggestions on Palm trees north of
Zone 8.
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 23:34:55 -0500
From: James Waddick <jwaddick@kc.rr.com>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Palms with REAL zone protections
Message-ID: <2AC38ECF-8C64-445D-8E9D-221E909CD942@kc.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Off topic,
I?ve had Rhapidophyllum hystrix here in Kansas City for years. I also tried a number of small plants without much success, but once I got a decent size plant it has come through with very little winter damage and made seed, too.
Sabals even from the most northerly natural site in OK dwindle. No others come close. I am in Zone 5/6.
We get to well below 0F every winter. It gets no extra protection most winters.
Jim W.
> On Apr 30, 2015, at 8:40 PM, From HK <hk@icarustrading.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a good palm tree to recommend for Zone 7a that actually
> survives?
>
>
> I would very much like to hear of any suggestions on Palm trees north of
> Zone 8.
>
> Thank you
>
> Heather
>
> ?
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
James Waddick
8871 NW Brostrom Rd
Kansas City, MO 64152-2711
USA
Phone 816-746-1949
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 21:29:00 -0700
From: Sarah Hinckley <sarahh@suiattle.net>
To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [pbs] Moraea villosa corms
Message-ID: <5543010C.6020201@suiattle.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
Thanks a lot Mike!
Sarah
On 4/29/2015 8:59 AM, Michael Mace wrote:
> Sarah wrote:
>
>> I just received some small corms of Moraea villosa from the BX. Can you
> please advise me on the best way to treat them now (Seattle spring), until
> they start into growth in the fall?
>
> I think they don't need to be potted right now. Don't bake them in the sun,
> but it's safe to leave them in a cool dry place and pot them up in late
> September or so, when you can start watering them.
>
> If you do pot them up now, make sure the soil is completely dry, otherwise
> the corms could suffer from mildew.
>
> Once they start growing they'll need a lot of light and good variation
> between daytime and night-time temps (when I grow them here they go from the
> 40s F or lower at night to the 60s F or higher during the day). They'll
> tolerate light frost overnight but not a prolonged freeze.
>
> Have fun with them!
>
> Mike
> San Jose, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
>
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