paroxide and germination breaker

Leo Martin stnalpsoel@gmail.com
Sun, 11 Jan 2015 11:18:48 PST
Hydrogen peroxide is sold in drug stores as a 3% solution. I have used it a
few times to germinate some Acacia and various Proteacea. I used an
overnight soak without dilution.

Romulea sabulosa germinated for me in 43 days, about the same as other
Romulea, without special treatment. It is a winter-growing plant. Seeds
should be planted in late fall to take advantage of day to night
temperature swings, and kept quite moist until sprouting. I used coarse
sharp local sand, derived from a mixture of rocks.

My climate is quite arid. My Romulea sprouting containers stand in water
until seedlings are up, and then I keep them quite wet. People in more
humid climates see rot under these conditions.

Leo Martin
Zone 9?
Phoenix Arizona USA
On Jan 11, 2015 2:54 AM, <pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: Hippeastrum ID query (Nicholas Plummer)
>    2. Re: Hippeastrum ID query (Alberto)
>    3. Lotusland comments (Jim Foster)
>    4. Haemanthus humilis (Stephen Putman)
>    5. Re: Haemanthus humilis (Kipp McMichael)
>    6. Re: Haemanthus humilis (Stephen Putman)
>    7. Re: Haemanthus humilis (Kipp McMichael)
>    8. paroxide and germination breaker (Seaton Ager)
>    9. germinating Romulea Sabulosa (Seaton Ager)
>   10. Re: Lotusland comments (Shmuel Silinsky)
>   11. Re: paroxide and germination breaker (Peter Taggart)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 10:32:02 -0500
> From: Nicholas Plummer <nickplummer@gmail.com>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum ID query
> Message-ID: <C85C7DA9-D99B-4563-823D-65B5E990E920@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii
>
> James,
>
> thanks for the reply.  For what it's worth, the first plant does produce a
> huge number of bulbils.
>
> On Jan 10, 2015, at 10:21 AM, James SHIELDS <jshields46074@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > The first looks more like Hippeastrum puniceum to me.  H. striatum is
> quite
> > variable and H. petiolatum is probably mainly distingueshed from striatum
> > (if it is in fact a different species) but reproducing mainly fro
> bulbils.
> >
> > The second looks like reginae to me, but I haven't grown reginae myself
> if
> > at least 20 years.
> >
> > Both of your bulbs look quite nice, in any case!
> >
> > Jim S.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 15:48:59 +0000
> From: Alberto <ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum ID query
> Message-ID: <BAY168-W81056BB541CE543CBA3AAFAE450@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Now that you mention it, Ji, the frantic production of bulbils in
> petiolatum is a result of the stupid mania of potting Hippeastrum uprooted,
> with the bulb exposed. I never found any wild petiolatum (and many other
> species) with exposed bulbs, all had an 2-3 in. neck below the ground and
> invariably had a few bulbils attached.
>
> The two or three species that are epiphytic by force are completely
> exceptional in the genus.
>
> > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 10:21:02 -0500
> > From: jshields46074@gmail.com
> > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum ID query
> >
> > The first looks more like Hippeastrum puniceum to me.  H. striatum is
> quite
> > variable and H. petiolatum is probably mainly distingueshed from striatum
> > (if it is in fact a different species) but reproducing mainly fro
> bulbils.
> >
> > The second looks like reginae to me, but I haven't grown reginae myself
> if
> > at least 20 years.
> >
> > Both of your bulbs look quite nice, in any case!
> >
> > Jim S.
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Jan 10, 2015 at 10:13 AM, Nicholas plummer <
> nickplummer@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > Can anyone help me confirm IDs on some Hippeastrum blooming in my
> > > greenhouse?
> > >
> > > 1.  In 2013, I received small offset bulbs of two Hippeastrums from
> BX341.
> > > 341-24 was Hippestrum petiolatum, NNBH1304.  341-25 was Hippeastrum
> > > striatum.  Due to carelessness while unpacking, I may have mixed up the
> > > tags.  One is blooming now:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/myrmecodia/…
> > >
> > > Is there any hope of figuring out which plant this is?
> > >
> > > 2.  I recently purchased a plant labeled H. reginae from one of the
> general
> > > bulb vendors (because Telos was sold out).  Do you think it is
> correctly
> > > labeled?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/myrmecodia/…
> > >
> > > side view:
> > >
> > >
> http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/myrmecodia/…
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > Nick Plummer
> > > Durham, NC, USA, Zone 7
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > pbs mailing list
> > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > James Shields             jshields46074@gmail.com
> > P.O. Box 92
> > Westfield, IN 46074
> > U.S.A.
> > _______________________________________________
> > pbs mailing list
> > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 08:19:12 -0800
> From: Jim Foster <fosterjp@cox.net>
> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> Subject: [pbs] Lotusland comments
> Message-ID: <54B15100.106@cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Paul Licht mentioned Lotusland in his post.  I happen to be a docent
> there and give tours often.  One feature of Lotusland is the huge
> planting of clivia lily.  The bed is about 100 feet long by 25 feet
> wide.  In bloom it can be quite spectacular.  Some years are better than
> others so the argument is between good and great...
>
> There are few other bulbs there Haemanthus being the most common. The
> plant diversity is quite large with over 2500 taxa on 22 acres including
> one of the world's largest collection of cycads, over 150 species of
> both aloes and cacti and one of my favorites a half acre Dracaena draco
> forest including a 130+ year old specimen.
>
> For those curious here is a video tour made by a local quadracopter
> driver but being there is much more impressive.
>
> http://lotusland.org/explore-garden/…
>
>
> Jim
> Santa Barbara
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:25:28 -0500 (EST)
> From: Stephen Putman <putman@pobox.upenn.edu>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
> Message-ID:
>         <1421088428.2525883.1420928728717.JavaMail.root@zimbra.upenn.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> I have a Haem. humilis humilis received from BX203 May 2009.  It has
> bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014.  At this moment the leaves are drooping a
> few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot.  It should now
> probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot.
>
> Question 1 - when to pot?
>
> Question 2 - what size, 10" or 12"?
>
> Thanks, Stephen Putman
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:32:24 -0800
> From: Kipp McMichael <kimcmich@hotmail.com>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
> Message-ID: <BLU168-W37D744C93CDDF84CE5F186CC420@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Greetings,
>   You cannot overpot Amaryllids (from their perspective - you're back my
> beg to differ) and in my experience transplating when the bulb is in active
> growth is best. That means when the bulb has started growth for the season
> or when it's leaves are still expanding. I would not try to repot an
> Amaryllid going into dormancy.
> -|<ipp
>
> > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:25:28 -0500
> > From: putman@pobox.upenn.edu
> > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
> >
> > I have a Haem. humilis humilis received from BX203 May 2009.  It has
> bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014.  At this moment the leaves are drooping a
> few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot.  It should now
> probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot.
> >
> > Question 1 - when to pot?
> >
> > Question 2 - what size, 10" or 12"?
> >
> > Thanks, Stephen Putman
> > _______________________________________________
> > pbs mailing list
> > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 23:33:53 -0500 (EST)
> From: Stephen Putman <putman@pobox.upenn.edu>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
> Message-ID:
>         <1443915632.2560573.1420950833084.JavaMail.root@zimbra.upenn.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Thanks Kipp,
>
> This is a "summer growing" Haemanthus.  As such, here in Delaware, US, it
> sends up a flower mid to late summer, and leaves a bit later, but not (at
> least for this plant) in a rigidly defined sequence.  That means that my
> plant is now at or near the end of its growth for this season and I expect
> the leaves to begin to yellow at the tips, with the likelihood of their
> being more or less "gone" by spring.  No new leaf growth likely until
> July/August.  So, by your measure repotting in Sept. or Oct.?
>
> Steve
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kipp McMichael" <kimcmich@hotmail.com>
> To: "Pacific Bulb Society" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 8:32:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
>
> Greetings,
>   You cannot overpot Amaryllids (from their perspective - you're back my
> beg to differ) and in my experience transplating when the bulb is in active
> growth is best. That means when the bulb has started growth for the season
> or when it's leaves are still expanding. I would not try to repot an
> Amaryllid going into dormancy.
> -|<ipp
>
> > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:25:28 -0500
> > From: putman@pobox.upenn.edu
> > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
> >
> > I have a Haem. humilis humilis received from BX203 May 2009.  It has
> bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014.  At this moment the leaves are drooping a
> few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot.  It should now
> probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot.
> >
> > Question 1 - when to pot?
> >
> > Question 2 - what size, 10" or 12"?
> >
> > Thanks, Stephen Putman
> > _______________________________________________
> > pbs mailing list
> > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
>
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 23:17:41 -0800
> From: Kipp McMichael <kimcmich@hotmail.com>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
> Message-ID: <BLU168-W8083BD2283DF240233A8A0CC420@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Steve,
>   Yes - the general idea is to catch the plant on the upswing of each
> season - so any damage you do during the repot has the best chance of
> healing. I have moved bulbs just before they would normally leaf all the
> way through bulbs that had large, but still growing, leaves without a
> problem. Though Amaryllids can sometimes sulk the season after a repot,
> they respond well to the increased space thereafter.
> -|<ipp
>
> > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 23:33:53 -0500
> > From: putman@pobox.upenn.edu
> > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
> >
> > Thanks Kipp,
> >
> > This is a "summer growing" Haemanthus.  As such, here in Delaware, US,
> it sends up a flower mid to late summer, and leaves a bit later, but not
> (at least for this plant) in a rigidly defined sequence.  That means that
> my plant is now at or near the end of its growth for this season and I
> expect the leaves to begin to yellow at the tips, with the likelihood of
> their being more or less "gone" by spring.  No new leaf growth likely until
> July/August.  So, by your measure repotting in Sept. or Oct.?
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kipp McMichael" <kimcmich@hotmail.com>
> > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> > Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 8:32:24 PM
> > Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
> >
> > Greetings,
> >   You cannot overpot Amaryllids (from their perspective - you're back my
> beg to differ) and in my experience transplating when the bulb is in active
> growth is best. That means when the bulb has started growth for the season
> or when it's leaves are still expanding. I would not try to repot an
> Amaryllid going into dormancy.
> > -|<ipp
> >
> > > Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 17:25:28 -0500
> > > From: putman@pobox.upenn.edu
> > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > > Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus humilis
> > >
> > > I have a Haem. humilis humilis received from BX203 May 2009.  It has
> bloomed twice now, 2013 and 2014.  At this moment the leaves are drooping a
> few inches over the sides of its 6" terra-cotta pot.  It should now
> probably be potted up into a 10" or 12" pot.
> > >
> > > Question 1 - when to pot?
> > >
> > > Question 2 - what size, 10" or 12"?
> > >
> > > Thanks, Stephen Putman
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > pbs mailing list
> > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > pbs mailing list
> > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
> > _______________________________________________
> > pbs mailing list
> > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 07:48:34 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Seaton Ager <m.ager@xtra.co.nz>
> To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: [pbs] paroxide and germination breaker
> Message-ID:
>         <
> 26810350.251040.1420962514116.JavaMail.yahoo@jws100107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Hi Read the into about using Paroxide to soak seeds in, can you give me
> ratio to water please. Also I am in New Zealand is there any members here
> in NZ who knows what can be used to beak germination dormancy, I know
> around the world I read about GA3 but not sure what we can use in NZ.?Many
> thanks Mel
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 07:51:41 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Seaton Ager <m.ager@xtra.co.nz>
> To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: [pbs] germinating Romulea Sabulosa
> Message-ID:
>         <
> 827792769.245786.1420962701664.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10036.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Mel again in New Zealand, has anyone got any idea how to break the dormany
> of romulea sabulosa. I have soaked in smoke water, I have done the correct
> temperature day and night but still no success. I can germinate other
> romulea but this one has no luck.many thanks, and I am loving the PBS, lots
> of interesting information and nice to here from other members.Mel
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 04:15:45 -0500
> From: Shmuel Silinsky <gardenbetter@gmail.com>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Lotusland comments
> Message-ID:
>         <CACHBJeF7hpv4oMo+tFmvrPE=
> 1n3XU3s53+3thzJNXZTQ3_Nctg@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Graey video!!  I have seen photos from Lotusland many times, but never got
> a real feel for the place before. Thank you!
>
> Shmuel
> Jerusalem, Israel
>
> On Sat, Jan 10, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Jim Foster <fosterjp@cox.net> wrote:
>
> > Paul Licht mentioned Lotusland in his post.  I happen to be a docent
> there
> > and give tours often.  One feature of Lotusland is the huge planting of
> > clivia lily.  The bed is about 100 feet long by 25 feet wide.  In bloom
> it
> > can be quite spectacular.  Some years are better than others so the
> > argument is between good and great...
> >
> > There are few other bulbs there Haemanthus being the most common. The
> > plant diversity is quite large with over 2500 taxa on 22 acres including
> > one of the world's largest collection of cycads, over 150 species of both
> > aloes and cacti and one of my favorites a half acre Dracaena draco forest
> > including a 130+ year old specimen.
> >
> > For those curious here is a video tour made by a local quadracopter
> driver
> > but being there is much more impressive.
> >
> > http://lotusland.org/explore-garden/…
> >
> >
> > Jim
> > Santa Barbara
> > _______________________________________________
> > pbs mailing list
> > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 09:52:30 +0000
> From: Peter Taggart <petersirises@gmail.com>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] paroxide and germination breaker
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CAELwaKj663jcDrNd5zc2cKsOcYskKTMejPB50GA0vpOtoV-sUA@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> soaking seeds in a solution of  detergent or soap is conventional. You can
> add some chlorine to it, which will kill of moulds  and sterilise the
> seed's coat.
> I have been told that hormone rooting powder should be bought fresh, and is
> essentially GA. I have not used it myself.
> Peter (UK)
>
> On 11 January 2015 at 07:48, Seaton Ager <m.ager@xtra.co.nz> wrote:
>
> >  here in NZ who knows what can be used to beak germination dormancy, I
> > know around the world I read about GA3 but not sure what we can use in
> > NZ. Many thanks Mel
> > _______________________________________________
> > pbs mailing list
> > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of pbs Digest, Vol 144, Issue 9
> ***********************************
>



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