From anbope1970@yahoo.dk Sat, 01 Mar 2014 01:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1393662246.35710.YahooMailNeo@web171305.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Anders Bo Petersen Subject: I have pollen from Paramongaia to swap very soon Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2014 08:24:06 +0000 (GMT) Dear growers of Paramongaia weberbaueri. I bought a summer growing form from Bill Dijk in NZ in November last year. Surprisingly there's a bud coming up. I expect within the next two weeks it will flower. I will have pollen to swap if any interested. I know that some bulb growers in Australia are eager to grow this beauty but only seeds are allowed to enter. So if I can help somehow, please let me know. Anders B. Petersen mail: anbope1970@yahoo.dk From avbeek1@hotmail.com Sat, 01 Mar 2014 01:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Aad van Beek Subject: I have pollen from Paramongaia to swap very soon Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2014 09:34:08 +0100 Anders wrote > I bought a summer growing form from Bill Dijk in NZ in November last year. So it grows in summer but flowers in winter? Or didn't it yet adapted to the northern hemisphere cycle. > I know that some bulb growers in Australia are eager to grow this beauty Many others not enjoying the skippy do to. :-) Aad From anbope1970@yahoo.dk Sat, 01 Mar 2014 01:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1393665110.36553.YahooMailNeo@web171305.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Anders Bo Petersen Subject: I have pollen from Paramongaia to swap very soon Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2014 09:11:50 +0000 (GMT) Now this is getting a bit complicated. As we know, there are two varieties of Paramongaia weberbaueri which comes form the area of Paramonga in Peru.  As far as I know, we don really know how the Paramogaias will react when the growing season changes. But from my very little experience I've had so far, it seems as if it is easy to adapt. I am a bit surprised that my bulb grows in spring here in Denmark - Europe. I chatted with a guy from Italy yesterday. He said that he's Paramongaia flowered in December. A rapid conclusion would be that it adapts very fast compared to other bulb species such as the South African ones. Another thing that is that nobody knows if you can pollinate the winter growing form with the summer growing form. From a biologic point of view I find this interesting. If you can't it seems as if they're two forms with different genes. I would prefer to grow the winter growing form as it would be our summer growing. But if there's no differences in the    Anders Bo Petersen Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe Den 9:34 lørdag den 1. marts 2014 skrev Aad van Beek : Anders wrote > I bought a summer growing form from Bill Dijk in NZ in November last year. So it grows in summer but flowers in winter? Or didn't it yet adapted to the northern hemisphere cycle. > I know that some bulb growers in Australia are eager to grow this beauty Many others not enjoying the skippy do to. :-) Aad From hornig@oswego.edu Sat, 01 Mar 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Dissecting microscopes revisited Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2014 13:17:22 -0500 After I asked the list a while back for advice about dissecting microscopes, I ventured onto eBay and made an astounding catch: an Accu-Scope 3076 trinocular microscope with zoom, detachable 2x objective lens, and 10x and 20x eyepieces, with a boom stand, a Micrometrics 318 digital camera, and a Dolan-Jenner Fiber-Lite M1-150 fiber-optic illuminator (with both a ring light and dual gooseneck cables), all for $400, which was ridiculously low. The seller did not know what they had (they had bought it from an industrial lab that closed), and so I want particularly to thank Kathleen Sayce for looking at the listing for me and telling me which questions I needed to ask, and why. She's a born teacher - she picked up perfectly on how little I knew about where to even start, and took it from there. Thanks, Kathleen! Over the course of two days I have set it all up, downloaded manuals for everything and software for the camera (thank goodness for the Internet), and started to play. I haven't yet had a chance to botanize (20" of snow on the ground), but I have found the most amazing peripheral benefit in just having the microscope sitting here at my elbow beside my desk: it's made a kid of me again. I have a lot of natural objets strewn about the house: stones, shells, feathers, etc; and I find myself repeatedly grabbing some new thing and putting it under the microscope for inspection. I would highly recommend this to anyone suffering from cabin fever. You will remember how beautiful nature is, and what a joy it is to contemplate it with no other motive than to enjoy its beauty. And that's why I wrote: to encourage everyone to get themselves a stereo microscope and see the world anew. Do it! Ellen -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Sat, 01 Mar 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <050AD8C1-174D-423A-A97E-E611EE0B9357@gmail.com> From: "M. Gastil-Buhl" Subject: Dissecting microscopes revisited Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2014 10:42:29 -0800 Ellen wrote: "... just having the microscope sitting here at my elbow beside my desk: it's made a kid of me again. I have a lot of natural objets strewn about the house..." Ellen may I suggest you look at some seeds? What look like little black specs in the palm of my hand become intricate structures under the scope. In some cases the macro photos of seeds have shown me insight to clues how they may want to be sown, or whether they are viable. But, honestly, the reason I look at seeds up close is because it is fun! Glad you got such a great setup. - Gastil Santa Barbara, California where it is raining, finally. From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Sat, 01 Mar 2014 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1393701830.46946.YahooMailNeo@web164502.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: Dissecting microscopes revisited Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2014 11:23:50 -0800 (PST) Jealous, lol.  Great find!! On Saturday, March 1, 2014 12:17 PM, Ellen Hornig wrote: After I asked the list a while back for advice about dissecting microscopes, I ventured onto eBay and made an astounding catch: an Accu-Scope 3076 trinocular microscope with zoom, detachable 2x objective lens, and 10x and 20x eyepieces, with a boom stand, a Micrometrics 318 digital camera, and a Dolan-Jenner Fiber-Lite M1-150 fiber-optic illuminator (with both a ring light and dual gooseneck cables), all for $400, which was ridiculously low.  The seller did not know what they had (they had bought it from an industrial lab that closed), and so I want particularly to thank Kathleen Sayce for looking at the listing for me and telling me which questions I needed to ask, and why. She's a born teacher - she picked up perfectly on how little I knew about where to even start, and took it from there.  Thanks, Kathleen! Over the course of two days I have set it all up, downloaded manuals for everything and software for the camera (thank goodness for the Internet), and started to play.  I haven't yet had a chance to botanize (20" of snow on the ground), but I have found the most amazing peripheral benefit in just having the microscope sitting here at my elbow beside my desk: it's made a kid of me again.  I have a lot of natural objets strewn about the house: stones, shells, feathers, etc; and I find myself repeatedly grabbing some new thing and putting it under the microscope for inspection.  I would highly recommend this to anyone suffering from cabin fever.  You will remember how beautiful nature is, and what a joy it is to contemplate it with no other motive than to enjoy its beauty. And that's why I wrote: to encourage everyone to get themselves a stereo microscope and see the world anew.  Do it! Ellen -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From markemazer@gmail.com Sat, 01 Mar 2014 16:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: Dissecting microscopes revisited Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2014 18:58:56 -0500 "(they had bought it from an industrial lab that closed), and so I want particularly to thank Kathleen Sayce for looking at the listing for me and telling me which questions I needed to ask,' So exactly how would one eval a used optical instrument over EBay? Educational and industrial grade mics are notorious for being abused. M On Sat, Mar 1, 2014 at 2:23 PM, James Frelichowski < butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com> wrote: > Jealous, lol. Great find!! > > > > > On Saturday, March 1, 2014 12:17 PM, Ellen Hornig > wrote: > > After I asked the list a while back for advice about dissecting > microscopes, I ventured onto eBay and made an astounding catch: an > Accu-Scope 3076 trinocular microscope with zoom, detachable 2x objective > lens, and 10x and 20x eyepieces, with a boom stand, a Micrometrics 318 > digital camera, and a Dolan-Jenner Fiber-Lite M1-150 fiber-optic > illuminator (with both a ring light and dual gooseneck cables), all for > $400, which was ridiculously low. The seller did not know what they had > (they had bought it from an industrial lab that closed), and so I want > particularly to thank Kathleen Sayce for looking at the listing for me and > telling me which questions I needed to ask, and why. She's a born teacher - > she picked up perfectly on how little I knew about where to even start, and > took it from there. Thanks, Kathleen! > > Over the course of two days I have set it all up, downloaded manuals for > everything and software for the camera (thank goodness for the Internet), > and started to play. I haven't yet had a chance to botanize (20" of snow > on the ground), but I have found the most amazing peripheral benefit in > just having the microscope sitting here at my elbow beside my desk: it's > made a kid of me again. I have a lot of natural objets strewn about the > house: stones, shells, feathers, etc; and I find myself repeatedly grabbing > some new thing and putting it under the microscope for inspection. I would > highly recommend this to anyone suffering from cabin fever. You will > remember how beautiful nature is, and what a joy it is to contemplate it > with no other motive than to enjoy its beauty. > > And that's why I wrote: to encourage everyone to get themselves a stereo > microscope and see the world anew. Do it! > > Ellen > -- > Ellen Hornig > 212 Grafton St > Shrewsbury MA 01545 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hornig@oswego.edu Sat, 01 Mar 2014 16:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Dissecting microscopes revisited Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2014 19:05:12 -0500 One wouldn't - there's the rub. In this case, I was assured it could be returned if there were any problems. I wouldn't have bought it otherwise. As with anything else you buy on eBay (plants, for sure) you take a chance. What more can I say? Ellen On Sat, Mar 1, 2014 at 6:58 PM, Mark Mazer wrote: > "(they had bought it from an industrial lab that closed), and so I want > particularly to thank Kathleen Sayce for looking at the listing for me and > telling me which questions I needed to ask,' > > So exactly how would one eval a used optical instrument over EBay? > Educational and industrial grade mics are notorious for being abused. > M > > > On Sat, Mar 1, 2014 at 2:23 PM, James Frelichowski < > butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Jealous, lol. Great find!! > > > > > > > > > > On Saturday, March 1, 2014 12:17 PM, Ellen Hornig > > wrote: > > > > After I asked the list a while back for advice about dissecting > > microscopes, I ventured onto eBay and made an astounding catch: an > > Accu-Scope 3076 trinocular microscope with zoom, detachable 2x objective > > lens, and 10x and 20x eyepieces, with a boom stand, a Micrometrics 318 > > digital camera, and a Dolan-Jenner Fiber-Lite M1-150 fiber-optic > > illuminator (with both a ring light and dual gooseneck cables), all for > > $400, which was ridiculously low. The seller did not know what they had > > (they had bought it from an industrial lab that closed), and so I want > > particularly to thank Kathleen Sayce for looking at the listing for me > and > > telling me which questions I needed to ask, and why. She's a born > teacher - > > she picked up perfectly on how little I knew about where to even start, > and > > took it from there. Thanks, Kathleen! > > > > Over the course of two days I have set it all up, downloaded manuals for > > everything and software for the camera (thank goodness for the Internet), > > and started to play. I haven't yet had a chance to botanize (20" of snow > > on the ground), but I have found the most amazing peripheral benefit in > > just having the microscope sitting here at my elbow beside my desk: it's > > made a kid of me again. I have a lot of natural objets strewn about the > > house: stones, shells, feathers, etc; and I find myself repeatedly > grabbing > > some new thing and putting it under the microscope for inspection. I > would > > highly recommend this to anyone suffering from cabin fever. You will > > remember how beautiful nature is, and what a joy it is to contemplate it > > with no other motive than to enjoy its beauty. > > > > And that's why I wrote: to encourage everyone to get themselves a stereo > > microscope and see the world anew. Do it! > > > > Ellen > > -- > > Ellen Hornig > > 212 Grafton St > > Shrewsbury MA 01545 > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 02 Mar 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 18:59:22 +0000 This is because the plant is a corm and not a bulb! Unlike true bulbs, corms do not form the flowers within the corm during dormancy- the flower buds develop on the growth shoots. Peter (UK) On 20 February 2014 00:23, Gastil Gastil-Buhl wrote: > > See this reference's abstract: > http://www.actahort.org/books/650/650_2.htm > > The abstract says more cold is required to initiate bloom than to form the > blooms in the corms. > > From john@oltarakwa.co.uk Sun, 02 Mar 2014 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <001b01cf365e$292a56a0$7b7f03e0$@oltarakwa.co.uk> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 21:27:05 -0000 I think Peter is making a distinction with little difference here: in both bulbs and corms the flower buds develop on a growth shoot, but in a corm the growth bud develops superficially on the swollen stem that forms the storage body, whereas in a bulb it grows from the compressed stem found within the whorls of swollen leaf bases/modified leaves that form the bulb. In consequence, the development of flower buds in a cormous plant occurs as the shoot expands 'once growth resumes', and is thus more visible. Dormancy is a difficult word - it is a mistake to think that nothing is happening in the depths of a bulb in summer, just because nothing can be seen, whereas in fact the shoot is organising itself to greater or lesser extent. John Grimshaw -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart Sent: 02 March 2014 18:59 To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Crocus sativus blooming? This is because the plant is a corm and not a bulb! Unlike true bulbs, corms do not form the flowers within the corm during dormancy- the flower buds develop on the growth shoots. Peter (UK) On 20 February 2014 00:23, Gastil Gastil-Buhl wrote: > The abstract says more cold is required to initiate bloom than to form > the blooms in the corms. > > From leo@possi.org Sun, 02 Mar 2014 16:17:10 -0800 Message-Id: <898e1823a7611a528a77013ebd730bb6.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: What's blooming Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 15:21:48 -0800 (PST) Albuca: circinalis spiralis sp. Augrabies Hills Babiana sinuata Lachenalia: alba aloides v. quadricolor Narcissus tazetta "Paperwhites" Oxalis obtusa: Damask Rose Honey Lemon Cream Polished Copper Sunshine Tangerine Tritonia florentiae And more opening soon. The more discerning might note early, mid and later bloomers flowering together. I suspect this is a function of my putting them outside very late this season; our recent experience of late spring weather for several weeks, two months early; and the last few days of substantial rain. Seeds I planted in the 2012-2103 season are sprouting now, rather than last winter, after our recent warm weather followed by cool rain. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 03 Mar 2014 00:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 07:23:37 +0000 Thank you John, It is good to have someone else recognise that there is more distinction between bulb and corm than the tunic. How does the 'superficial' formation of the flower bud on a corm shoot compare to the formation of a flower bud on the basal plate within a bulb, with regard to the timing during the growth cycle (especially warm Summer 'dormancy'), further development during chilling in winter, and the effect of growing conditions when rooting takes place and top growth starts? Peter (UK) On 2 March 2014 21:27, John Grimshaw wrote: > I think Peter is making a distinction with little difference here: in both > bulbs and corms the flower buds develop on a growth shoot, but in a corm > the > growth bud develops superficially on the swollen stem that forms the > storage > body, whereas in a bulb it grows from the compressed stem found within the > whorls of swollen leaf bases/modified leaves that form the bulb. In > consequence, the development of flower buds in a cormous plant occurs as > the > shoot expands 'once growth resumes', and is thus more visible. Dormancy is > a > difficult word - it is a mistake to think that nothing is happening in the > depths of a bulb in summer, just because nothing can be seen, whereas in > fact the shoot is organising itself to greater or lesser extent. > > John Grimshaw > From cna@talktalk.net Mon, 03 Mar 2014 02:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <5314490F.9020309@talktalk.net> From: shopping Subject: Kniphofia hardiness Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2014 09:19:11 +0000 I am interested to know how hardy Kniphofia really are. I can grow most Cape and Drakensberg species here in the south of England with little problem, but considering our lowest temperature this winter has been -3°C (admittedly exceptional, we normally get down to -10°C) it is hardly a good test. It would be great to hear which species people have found the hardiest and how low did it go? Has anyone tried any of the tropical species - I saw K. thomsonii growing outside in Shropshire and the person said that it had got down to -15°C - considering I had killed it in my own garden I thought this was remarkable? Are there any species that should have been hardier - I continually struggle keeping K. hirsuta alive but I am on heavy clay soil? Chris Christopher Whitehouse Keeper of the Herbarium RHS Garden Wisley Woking GU23 6QB UK From teck11@embarqmail.com Mon, 03 Mar 2014 05:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <003a01cf36e2$0b06fd70$2114f850$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Dissecting microscopes revisited Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 08:11:07 -0500 Ellen wrote: One wouldn't - there's the rub. In this case, I was assured it could be returned if there were any problems. I wouldn't have bought it otherwise. As with anything else you buy on eBay (plants, for sure) you take a chance. What more can I say? Actually, one of the reasons these usually fetch a good price on the used market is that they are relatively abuse-resistant. It's nearly impossible to crash the objectives since the working distance is several inches instead of microns and even if you actually drop it, not too much is damaged since the optical path is relatively insensitive to misalignment. You might want to examine your amber jewelry for minute arthropods that may have gone unnoticed - but don't look too closely at your other jewelry. Tim From arnold140@verizon.net Mon, 03 Mar 2014 06:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <22646742.386514.1393852957719.JavaMail.root@vznit170134> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Kniphofia hardiness Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2014 07:22:37 -0600 (CST) Chris: I have Kniphofia northiae here for ten years. Has increased and sent up two offsets. Kniphofia hirsuta had lasted about three years and then dwindled. Most likely due to it's location rather than temperatures. The K. northiae hasn't flowered every year but puts on a good dramatic leaf show. Arnold New Jersey From hornig@oswego.edu Mon, 03 Mar 2014 06:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Kniphofia hardiness Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 09:06:52 -0500 I had large clumps of K. hirsuta in Oswego NY (USDA zone 5b, to 0 to -10F in most of the years I grew it, but with persistent snow cover of several inches to a foot or two) and it never wavered. It multiplied vigorously and bloomed well. Soils were clayey loams. Other dependable performers were K. northiae, K.caulescens, and K. uvaria from the eastern Cape. But then, several eucomis were also hardy. In some ways, that was a great climate. Now I'm checking out central Massachusetts, where this year it seems alarmingly like Oswego. March 3 and we still have more than a foot of snow on the ground. Ellen On Mon, Mar 3, 2014 at 8:22 AM, wrote: > Chris: > > I have Kniphofia northiae here for ten years. Has increased and sent up > two offsets. Kniphofia hirsuta had lasted about three years and then > dwindled. Most likely due to it's location rather than temperatures. The > K. northiae hasn't flowered every year but puts on a good dramatic leaf > show. > > Arnold > New Jersey > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From nickplummer@gmail.com Mon, 03 Mar 2014 08:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nicholas plummer Subject: What's blooming Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 10:44:27 -0500 In the greenhouse: Babiana villosa Ornithogalum dubium Veltheimia bracteata Dorstenia barnimiana (a fig pretending to be a cyclamen) After some sunny days that warmed up the greenhouse nicely, winter growing bulbs are starting to go dormant, and some summer growers are starting to wake up. Spring-blooming orchids and pachypodiums are also initiating inflorescences Outside: "Home Depot" daffodil hybrids are starting to bloom, a full month later than last year. They'll probably be squashed by ice tonight. Nick Plummer Durham, NC, Zone 7 From markemazer@gmail.com Mon, 03 Mar 2014 08:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: Dissecting microscopes revisited Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 11:12:36 -0500 http://www.absoluteclarity.com/evaluating-your-stereo-microscope.html On Mon, Mar 3, 2014 at 8:11 AM, Tim Eck wrote: > Ellen wrote: > One wouldn't - there's the rub. In this case, I was assured it could be > returned if there were any problems. I wouldn't have bought it otherwise. > As with anything else you buy on eBay (plants, for sure) you take a chance. > What more can I say? > > > Actually, one of the reasons these usually fetch a good price on the used > market is that they are relatively abuse-resistant. It's nearly impossible > to crash the objectives since the working distance is several inches > instead > of microns and even if you actually drop it, not too much is damaged since > the optical path is relatively insensitive to misalignment. > You might want to examine your amber jewelry for minute arthropods that > may > have gone unnoticed - but don't look too closely at your other jewelry. > Tim > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jmsjon664@aol.com Thu, 06 Mar 2014 00:19:04 -0800 Message-Id: <8D10516D934B53C-18A0-1DFD1@webmail-d159.sysops.aol.com> From: "James L. Jones" Subject: Kniphofia hardiness Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 11:43:33 -0500 (EST) Kniphofia ensifolia has done well for me for a number of years, blooming dependably; K. hirsute is new but looking dependable; my best is the fall-blooming K. galpinii. Jim Jones -----Original Message----- From: Ellen Hornig To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Mon, Mar 3, 2014 9:07 am Subject: Re: [pbs] Kniphofia hardiness I had large clumps of K. hirsuta in Oswego NY (USDA zone 5b, to 0 to -10F in most of the years I grew it, but with persistent snow cover of several inches to a foot or two) and it never wavered. It multiplied vigorously and bloomed well. Soils were clayey loams. Other dependable performers were K. northiae, K.caulescens, and K. uvaria from the eastern Cape. But then, several eucomis were also hardy. In some ways, that was a great climate. Now I'm checking out central Massachusetts, where this year it seems alarmingly like Oswego. March 3 and we still have more than a foot of snow on the ground. Ellen On Mon, Mar 3, 2014 at 8:22 AM, wrote: > Chris: > > I have Kniphofia northiae here for ten years. Has increased and sent up > two offsets. Kniphofia hirsuta had lasted about three years and then > dwindled. Most likely due to it's location rather than temperatures. The > K. northiae hasn't flowered every year but puts on a good dramatic leaf > show. > > Arnold > New Jersey > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Mon, 03 Mar 2014 09:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1210287129.23597.1393866923240.JavaMail.www@wwinf1j21> From: Mark BROWN Subject: What's blooming/ Dorstenia barnimiana Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 18:15:23 +0100 (CET) Wow this list is amazing! Never heard or even imagined dorstenias. So I had to google them. Like a geophytic open "flowered" figs. They look like something from another planet The world is wonderful! Thanks for posting this Nicholas.  Mark  " Message du 03/03/14 16:44 > De : "Nicholas plummer" > > In the greenhouse: ... > Dorstenia barnimiana (a fig pretending to be a cyclamen)... > Nick Plummer" _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 03 Mar 2014 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Kniphofia hardiness Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 19:55:09 +0000 K northiae survived minus 15C or colder for me and flowered, In my experience K hirsuta sulks if it does not get a hot dry spot. It was also hardy in the recent cold winters. K caulescens died. K uvaria hardy for me too. I have a plant labelled K thomsoni which was also unscathed. Various hybrids, sown as species, such as citrina and baurii were hardy, pauciflora is definately not hardy in cold winters. K typhoides was hardy for many years but I am not sure if I still have it. All in Derbyshire, England Peter From hornig@oswego.edu Mon, 03 Mar 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Dissecting microscopes revisited Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 15:44:22 -0500 I just want to add that if you're thinking of buying a scope, I would definitely recommend the boom stand. When I bought this setup I thought the boom stand would be unwieldy, but it turns out to be marvelous for large odd-size specimens (a whole flower, for example, or a branch) because you can set it so you have all the space in the world between the objective lens and the table, and then hold the specimen (manually) under the lens and move and rotate it however you like. You also don't need to worry about scratching a plate in the stage (if you're playing with rocks, for example). Now all you have to do is get lucky the way I did, and pick up $2500 worth of working equipment for $400. I'm still all aglow...:-) Ellen On Mon, Mar 3, 2014 at 8:11 AM, Tim Eck wrote: > Ellen wrote: > One wouldn't - there's the rub. In this case, I was assured it could be > returned if there were any problems. I wouldn't have bought it otherwise. > As with anything else you buy on eBay (plants, for sure) you take a chance. > What more can I say? > > > Actually, one of the reasons these usually fetch a good price on the used > market is that they are relatively abuse-resistant. It's nearly impossible > to crash the objectives since the working distance is several inches > instead > of microns and even if you actually drop it, not too much is damaged since > the optical path is relatively insensitive to misalignment. > You might want to examine your amber jewelry for minute arthropods that > may > have gone unnoticed - but don't look too closely at your other jewelry. > Tim > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Mon, 03 Mar 2014 14:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 21:15:42 +0000 Hi, Put it this way, when I buy Crocus sativus corms from Holland every year, is it a foregone conclusion they won't flower, or is flowering (that first year) something I can have an effect on? -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 03 Mar 2014 14:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 21:34:10 +0000 that is the point of my questions David. I suspect it is something you could influence. Peter (UK) On 3 March 2014 21:15, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > Put it this way, when I buy Crocus sativus corms from Holland every > year, is it a foregone conclusion they won't flower, or is flowering > (that first year) something I can have an effect on? > > From birislipski@yahoo.com Mon, 03 Mar 2014 14:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: <1393883756.65480.YahooMailNeo@web160301.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Beverly Lipski Subject: Kniphofia hardiness Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 13:55:56 -0800 (PST) K. caulescens has been growing in my USDA zone 6b (-20.6 C) garden in Central Pennsylvania for at least 10 years in heavy clay.  It was moved about 3 years ago to keep it in full sun (shade was overtaking) and on a berm to provide better drainage.  I'm hoping it survives this winter's heavy snows and much colder than normal temperatures. Beverly On Monday, March 3, 2014 2:55 PM, Peter Taggart wrote: K northiae survived minus 15C or colder for me and flowered, In my experience K hirsuta sulks if it does not get a  hot dry spot. It was also hardy in the recent cold winters. K caulescens died. K uvaria hardy for me too. I have a plant labelled K thomsoni which was also unscathed. Various hybrids, sown as species, such as citrina and baurii were hardy, pauciflora is definately not hardy in cold winters. K typhoides was hardy for many years but I am not sure if I still have it. All in Derbyshire, England Peter From arnold140@verizon.net Mon, 03 Mar 2014 14:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: <3053657.457068.1393884275700.JavaMail.root@vznit170134> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Kniphofia hardiness Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2014 16:04:35 -0600 (CST) Beverly: The snow will only protect the plant. Ellen grew many of these in the snow belt of NY. Arnold I'm hoping it survives this winter's heavy snows and much colder than normal temperatures. Beverly From hornig@oswego.edu Mon, 03 Mar 2014 14:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Kniphofia hardiness Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 17:12:56 -0500 Indeed, Ellen has since remembered a few more species that did well in the snow belt: K. triangularis, K. baurii, K. typhoides, K. stricta. As far as I know, snow is pretty much an unmitigated blessing for perennials over the course of the winter. It can be less so in early spring if there's a lot of melting and freezing, in which case it can become ice and be hard on lower-lying plants and plants that hate wet crowns. But nothing is perfect. Ellen On Mon, Mar 3, 2014 at 5:04 PM, wrote: > Beverly: > > The snow will only protect the plant. Ellen grew many of these in the > snow belt of NY. > > Arnold > > > I'm hoping it survives this winter's heavy snows and much colder than > normal temperatures. > > Beverly > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 03 Mar 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Kniphofia hardiness Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 22:19:32 +0000 The species I mentioned were largely without snow in the relevant two hard winters when temperatures were between minus 15 and minus 18 C for many nights. Peter (UK) On 3 March 2014 22:12, Ellen Hornig wrote: > Indeed, Ellen has since remembered a few more species that did well in the > snow belt: K. triangularis, K. baurii, K. typhoides, K. stricta. As far as > I know, snow is pretty much an unmitigated blessing for perennials over the > course of the winter. > From pelarg@aol.com Mon, 03 Mar 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <8D105465574C4EB-32EC-1FBD4@webmail-d126.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Kniphofia hardiness Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 17:23:28 -0500 (EST) During normal winters and mild winters K. northiae tends to keep most or all of its foliage, and is more likely to bloom the following spring. This winter has been exceptionally cold, with some of those low single digit nights without snow protection. My plants in the school garden in Chappaqua NY are beginning to become visible as the snow melts, and they are definitely browned pretty badly. I anticipate they will grow back, either from the bases and heart of the rosette or from side rosettes if the main one is too badly damaged. Time alone will tell. K hirsuta is normally hardy, as is K baurii and K triangularis. I have more outside at home and school but wait to see how they fare in spring before I can add anything. I will say K thompsonii is only hardy in mild winters in my limited experience. Ernie DeMarie Briarcliff Manor NY Z7ish -----Original Message----- From: Peter Taggart To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Mon, Mar 3, 2014 2:55 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Kniphofia hardiness K northiae survived minus 15C or colder for me and flowered, In my experience K hirsuta sulks if it does not get a hot dry spot. It was also hardy in the recent cold winters. K caulescens died. K uvaria hardy for me too. I have a plant labelled K thomsoni which was also unscathed. Various hybrids, sown as species, such as citrina and baurii were hardy, pauciflora is definately not hardy in cold winters. K typhoides was hardy for many years but I am not sure if I still have it. All in Derbyshire, England Peter From echernof@iupui.edu Mon, 03 Mar 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <20140303180917.t07243va0cgkosoc@webmail.iu.edu> From: "Chernoff, Ellen A. G." Subject: Dissecting scopes Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2014 18:09:17 -0500 Tim Eck is right that it is not easy to abuse this kind of scope with ordinary care, but if it was used in a microlithography lab where they etch silicon wafers with hydrofluoric acid, there isn't an unetched piece on the scope. And student scopes have the damndest things done to them. --Ellen C. -- Dr. Ellen Chernoff, Ph.D. Associate Professor of Biology IUPUI-Biology SL 360 723 W. Michigan St. Indianapolis, IN 46202-5132 317-274-0591 From teck11@embarqmail.com Mon, 03 Mar 2014 16:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <008c01cf3736$daef20e0$90cd62a0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Dissecting microscopes revisited Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 18:18:14 -0500 Mark wrote: http://www.absoluteclarity.com/evaluating-your-stereo-microscope.html Mark, That is actually a pretty good SOP to setup for eyepiece parfocality. It is generally done once a year if everybody wears their prescriptions (contacts, glasses, etc) when using the scope. It doesn't address the camera port which requires a second diopter adjustment, and a third one is required if you have an internal lightpath reference reticle which would be the primary reference plane. If you remove the eyepieces, you can get dust and eyelashes in the ocular tubes but otherwise they are contamination resistant. To clean, first use a keyboard duster can or (old school) a squeeze bulb (looks like an ear irrigator) but never a compressed air line. Then Q-tips with rubbing alcohol or distilled water but never other solvents like toluene, MEK, acetone as they can attack enamels and cements. Tim From hornig@oswego.edu Mon, 03 Mar 2014 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Dissecting scopes Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 19:23:09 -0500 I'm sure it matters how critical your applications are. In my case, I was told the prior owner was a "defense contractor", so who knows what they did with it....but I can say that for my purposes, which are mostly to have a good time and (eventually) learn to take pictures, it's 'way more than good enough. I do plan to take apart that which can and should be taken apart and clean it, one of these days - the eyepieces are a little dusty (so thanks, Tim, for the advice about cleaning). Today I studied the edges of my fingernails. I would recommend that gardeners *not* do this. It can be alarming. At least I didn't see little wiggly things. Ellen On Mon, Mar 3, 2014 at 6:09 PM, Chernoff, Ellen A. G. wrote: > Tim Eck is right that it is not easy to abuse this kind of scope with > ordinary care, but if it was used in a microlithography lab where they > etch silicon wafers with hydrofluoric acid, there isn't an unetched > piece on the scope. And student scopes have the damndest things done > to them. > --Ellen C. > > -- > Dr. Ellen Chernoff, Ph.D. > Associate Professor of Biology > IUPUI-Biology SL 360 > 723 W. Michigan St. > Indianapolis, IN 46202-5132 > 317-274-0591 > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Mon, 03 Mar 2014 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1393893222.54726.YahooMailBasic@web122305.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Dissecting scopes Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2014 16:33:42 -0800 (PST) Ellen, I was going to say not to do that! I have gotten sidetracked during the gardening season while at work identifying plants after noticing what I thought were clean fingernails! Aaron -------------------------------------------- On Tue, 3/4/14, Ellen Hornig wrote: Subject: Re: [pbs] Dissecting scopes To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Tuesday, March 4, 2014, 8:23 AM Today I studied the edges of my fingernails.  I would recommend that gardeners *not* do this.  It can be alarming.  At least I didn't see little wiggly things. Ellen From petersirises@gmail.com Tue, 04 Mar 2014 00:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 07:18:32 +0000 this report seems to cover the required temperature fluctuations, for Crocus sativus growth and flower initiation, in some detail. http://www.saffroncenter.ir/User_Files/grrenhouse.pdf Peter (UK) On 3 March 2014 21:34, Peter Taggart wrote: > that is the point of my questions David. I suspect it is something you > could influence. > Peter (UK) > > > > > On 3 March 2014 21:15, David Pilling wrote: > >> Hi, >> >> Put it this way, when I buy Crocus sativus corms from Holland every >> year, is it a foregone conclusion they won't flower, or is flowering >> (that first year) something I can have an effect on? >> >> From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue, 04 Mar 2014 07:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 08:22:19 -0600 Thanks Peter, I was hoping to see some factual info that might give me an optimum time to dig clumps and divide to replant. Any suggestions? Jim On Mar 4, 2014, at 1:18 AM, Peter Taggart wrote: > this report seems to cover the required temperature fluctuations, for > Crocus sativus growth and flower initiation, in some detail. > http://www.saffroncenter.ir/User_Files/grrenhouse.pdf James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From alanidae@gmail.com Tue, 04 Mar 2014 08:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Crinum kunthianum Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 10:31:44 -0500 Hey Thanin I am growing Crinum kunthianum but I cannot tell you much about it. I have read that it grows along wooded streams in Central America and possibly into northern South America. There does seem to be two different plants in the trade labeled with this name. One with stiffer flatter textured leaves that are creased more toward the tip and another were the leaves are heavily creased and have a plicate texture. I am not sure if these represent various growth forms of the same plant under different growing conditions or different plants. Here is a link to another picture. http://www.plantdelights.com/Crinum-kunthianum-D-Lehmiller/ Alani Davis On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 8:22 AM, thanin phan wrote: > Dear all member, > > Do any have profile of Crinum kunthianum. I got from UK seller 2 yrs ago > and now just give flower bud. > I check http://www.theplantlist.org/, it accepted name. But I can't find > any info in internet more than in > http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Crinum_kunthianum. > > My photo : http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7412/12792776604_7f662574de_c.jpg > > Thank you so much, > Thanin form Thailand > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From teck11@embarqmail.com Tue, 04 Mar 2014 08:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <004501cf37c4$0821e330$1865a990$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 11:08:49 -0500 Mine would flower sitting on the shelf or in the bag if I didn't get them planted in time - but they were local. Only the large ones flower. Tim Lancaster county PA zone 6B -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of David Pilling Sent: Monday, March 03, 2014 4:16 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Crocus sativus blooming? Hi, Put it this way, when I buy Crocus sativus corms from Holland every year, is it a foregone conclusion they won't flower, or is flowering (that first year) something I can have an effect on? -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Tue, 04 Mar 2014 11:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 18:57:30 +0000 Hi, In message <004501cf37c4$0821e330$1865a990$@embarqmail.com>, Tim Eck writes >Mine would flower sitting on the shelf or in the bag if I didn't get them >planted in time - but they were local. 8-) The paper Peter Taggart posted above mentions temperatures which don't often occur in this part of the world - here (North West England) anything over 70F is unusual - as being optimum for flower formation. >Only the large ones flower. How large is large... -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From teck11@embarqmail.com Tue, 04 Mar 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <007801cf37e0$392aec30$ab80c490$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 14:30:37 -0500 >>Only the large ones flower. >How large is large... About an inch across. They'll often flower best when they start to accumulate smaller offsets. But definitely protect from field mice or voles because they can wipe out a lot in a short time - and make your apple trees fall over too (when they move on to their roots). Tim From leo@possi.org Tue, 04 Mar 2014 20:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 19:40:19 -0800 (PST) David wrote > ...when I buy Crocus sativus corms from Holland > every year, is it a foregone conclusion they > won't flower, or is flowering (that first year) > something I can have an effect on? In very late fall I bought a dozen / 12 SI at a local nursery. I don't know their origin, but I presume from Holland, since that is where this nursery gets most of its bulbs. They were already starting to sprout. I planted them and over half bloomed. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Wed, 05 Mar 2014 04:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <531710B6.3030401@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2014 11:55:34 +0000 Perhaps this Bulb Log might clarify some points on bulbs and corms : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2013Jan161358348294BULB_LOG_0313.pdf M.Y. From teck11@embarqmail.com Wed, 05 Mar 2014 07:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <002001cf3880$35160a80$9f421f80$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2014 09:35:50 -0500 Thanks That was interesting -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Youngs Aberdeen Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2014 6:56 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Crocus sativus blooming? Perhaps this Bulb Log might clarify some points on bulbs and corms : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2013Jan161358348294BULB_LOG_0313.pdf M.Y. From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Wed, 05 Mar 2014 09:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <53175041.8040501@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: Narcissus albimarginatus Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2014 16:26:41 +0000 Some photos of this stunning /Moroccan species, *Narcissus albimarginatus*/ from Rafa Diez-Dominguez/ (Narcissus albimarginatus/ D.Müll.-Doblies & U.Müll.-Doblies Fl. Pl. Africa 50: t. 1986 1989.) - here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=11474.msg297366#msg297366 M.Y. From billthebulbbaron@aol.com Thu, 06 Mar 2014 07:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <5FFE1D4B-78D0-4E93-AE73-AFED21E499D3@aol.com> From: billthebulbbaron@aol.com Subject: anyone in Israel? Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2014 06:54:07 -0800 I have heard of a site in northern Israel where the native Narcissus tazetta is particularly abundant, known as "Narcissus Hill". Does anyone there know precisely where this is located? Best wishes, Bill the Bulb Baron (William R.P. Welch) From markemazer@gmail.com Thu, 06 Mar 2014 09:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: anyone in Israel? Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2014 11:49:22 -0500 *Tel Anafa is a h*ill near Shamir and is informally known as "daffodil hill". It is in a nature reserve. Mark Mazer Hertford, NC USDA 8a On Thu, Mar 6, 2014 at 9:54 AM, wrote: > I have heard of a site in northern Israel where the native Narcissus > tazetta is particularly abundant, known as "Narcissus Hill". Does anyone > there know precisely where this is located? > > Best wishes, > > Bill the Bulb Baron (William R.P. Welch) > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ixia@dcsi.net.au Thu, 06 Mar 2014 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <8E50CBF1C5E340029DAC989F80FA855F@BillPC> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: anyone in Israel? Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2014 07:40:46 +1100 " Tel Anafa Nature Reserve. Northwest of Kibbutz Shamir, Tel Anafa is an off-the-track delight. Although named for the egrets (anafot) that like to nest in its trees, the Tel Anafa Nature Reserve is also known as Daffodil Hill. That's because in the dead of winter the almost untouched reserve abounds with lovely daffodils. In spring the daffodils are replaced by distinctive acanthus flowers, called 'bear's breeches' in English. With their rosette-like bottom leaves and white and purple flowers, they are so decorative that they apparently inspired the architect who designed the Corinthian capitals that crowned the pillars in ancient Greece and Rome." http://www.jpost.com/Israel-Guide/Northern-Israel-Tours/Jordan-River-A-monumental-north regards, Bill Richardson -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark Mazer" Sent: Friday, March 07, 2014 3:49 AM To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Subject: Re: [pbs] anyone in Israel? > *Tel Anafa is a h*ill near Shamir and is informally known as "daffodil > hill". It is in a nature reserve. > Mark Mazer > Hertford, NC USDA 8a > > > On Thu, Mar 6, 2014 at 9:54 AM, wrote: > >> I have heard of a site in northern Israel where the native Narcissus >> tazetta is particularly abundant, known as "Narcissus Hill". Does >> anyone >> there know precisely where this is located? >> >> Best wishes, >> >> Bill the Bulb Baron (William R.P. Welch) >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 2055 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 06 Mar 2014 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Early-flowering Fritillaria species and their hardiness Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2014 13:01:22 -0800 A walk through the bulb house this morning was enlivened by the first opening flowers of a number of Fritillaria species. Most of them are on the "dry" side, plants from semi-arid Asian and eastern Mediterranean regions. They include the following: Fritillaria raddeana Fritillaria zagrica Fritillaria eduardii Fritillaria bucharica Fritillaria obliqua Fritillaria gibbosa Fritillaria stenanthera (three forms) Fritillaria striata Fritillaria chitralensis Fritillaria arriana Fritillaria euboica Fritillaria serpentinicola Fritillaria sewertzowii Fritillaria latifolia Fritillaria caucasica Well represented is the section named for the familiar Fritillaria imperialis (not in flower here yet): raddeana, eduardii, and chitralensis. The Rhinopetalum section also tends to be early, with gibbosa, arriana, stenanthera, and bucharica. F. euboica and F. serpentinicola are Greek species sometimes included in Fritillaria carica, which is just in bud here. The earliest American species as always is F. striata from the mountains of southern California. I grew all these plants from seed, beginning with F. raddeana in 1988 (the original bulbs are still flowering, along with their seedlings). We have had two spells of severe frost lasting about a week each, one in early December and one in early February when some of these plants had emerging foliage; F. striata had leaves up during the December freeze, when the temperature dropped one night to 17 F here. F. obliqua, native to the area of Athens, was in bud during the February freeze down to 20 F, and showed no damage. This shows that the literature claiming some species to be particularly tender should probably be looked at critically. My plants went through temperatures down to 20 F (minus 6 C) regularly at my former home, where I had them in unheated cold frames. The present bulb house is unheated and covered only with a transparent roof; the sides are wire mesh. The bulbs are in raised beds of very well drained soil. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Thu, 06 Mar 2014 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: anyone in Israel? Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2014 16:56:31 -0800 Hey, thanks for that link. I skimmed through it and my eyes locked on the place name Kfar Blum mentioned in the article. This helps explain a pot of Narcissus I've had for quite a while now. The label says they are Narcissus sp. 'Kfar Blum' and they are grown from some seeds I got from the seed exchange. (Don't remember if it was PBS or pre-PBS.) For some reason I never bothered to Google the words. So I gather what I have traces back to Narcissus that is native to that area? Interesting. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m On Mar 6, 2014, at 12:40 PM, Bill Richardson wrote: > " Tel Anafa Nature Reserve. Northwest of Kibbutz Shamir, Tel Anafa is an > off-the-track delight. Although named for the egrets (anafot) that like to > nest in its trees, the Tel Anafa Nature Reserve is also known as Daffodil > Hill. That's because in the dead of winter the almost untouched reserve > abounds with lovely daffodils. > > In spring the daffodils are replaced by distinctive acanthus flowers, > called > 'bear's breeches' in English. With their rosette-like bottom leaves and > white and purple flowers, they are so decorative that they apparently > inspired the architect who designed the Corinthian capitals that crowned > the > pillars in ancient Greece and Rome." > > http://www.jpost.com/Israel-Guide/Northern-Israel-Tours/Jordan-River-A-monumental-north > > regards, > Bill Richardson > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Mark Mazer" > Sent: Friday, March 07, 2014 3:49 AM > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Subject: Re: [pbs] anyone in Israel? > >> *Tel Anafa is a h*ill near Shamir and is informally known as "daffodil >> hill". It is in a nature reserve. >> Mark Mazer >> Hertford, NC USDA 8a >> >> >> On Thu, Mar 6, 2014 at 9:54 AM, wrote: >> >>> I have heard of a site in northern Israel where the native Narcissus >>> tazetta is particularly abundant, known as "Narcissus Hill". Does >>> anyone >>> there know precisely where this is located? >>> >>> Best wishes, >>> >>> Bill the Bulb Baron (William R.P. Welch) >>> _______________________________________________ From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu, 06 Mar 2014 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <37B05CC5-D0BE-450D-B190-DAFFFDDBE128@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Narcissus albimarginatus Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2014 19:15:08 -0600 Dear Maggie, Surprised that no has remarked on this rare and unusual Narcissus. The white edged cup seems to be unique in the genus and I was very glad to get a glimpse of this rarity. Thanks. JW On Mar 5, 2014, at 10:26 AM, Youngs Aberdeen wrote: > > Some photos of this stunning /Moroccan species, *Narcissus > albimarginatus*/ from Rafa Diez-Dominguez/ > (Narcissus albimarginatus/ D.Müll.-Doblies & U.Müll.-Doblies > Fl. Pl. Africa 50: t. 1986 1989.) - here : > http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=11474.msg297366#msg297366 > > M.Y. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 06 Mar 2014 18:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Narcissus albimarginatus Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2014 17:44:53 -0800 At 05:15 PM 3/6/2014, you wrote: > Surprised that no has remarked on this rare and unusual > Narcissus. The white edged cup seems to be unique in the genus and > I was very glad to get a glimpse of this rarity. Thanks. JW Some years ago I raised a number of Narcissus jonquilla from seed collected in the Pyrenees, and many of them (being mostly bright yellow) showed some white at the margin or the base of the corona, or at the inner part of the corolla, or both. I expect this is normal variation for a wild population but probably not admired by daffodil breeders. I was wondering why the species epithet bestowed on the pictured plant is "albimarginatus" and not "albomarginatus," which is more usual. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Thu, 06 Mar 2014 18:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1394156984.9738.YahooMailBasic@web122304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2014 17:49:44 -0800 (PST) Is anyone growing this plant as it has been offered in the trade? I cannot find anyone in the US that is currently selling it, but I would interested in obtaining a division. Aaron Floden east Tennessee From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 06 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1394158644.69142.YahooMailNeo@web121305.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Narcissus albimarginatus Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2014 18:17:24 -0800 (PST) Jane asked "I was wondering why the species epithet bestowed on the pictured plant is "albimarginatus" and not "albomarginatus," which is more usual." When compound words are formed from Latin stems/roots, the combining vowel is i, and it's a short i; when compound words are formed from Greek stems/roots, the combining vowel is o (omicron, short o). That these combining vowels are short is important to know for those who follow the text book rules for placement of the stress. The rule as given above is a simplified version: stems which end in a vowel or begin in a vowel will sometimes result in various vowel fusions. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where more snow is possible tonight. On Thursday, March 6, 2014 8:57 PM, Jane McGary wrote: At 05:15 PM 3/6/2014, you wrote: >        Surprised that no has remarked on this rare and unusual > Narcissus. The white edged cup seems to be unique in the genus and > I was very glad to get a glimpse of this rarity. Thanks.  JW Some years ago I raised a number of Narcissus jonquilla from seed collected in the Pyrenees, and many of them (being mostly bright yellow) showed some white at the margin or the base of the corona, or at the inner part of the corolla, or both. I expect this is normal variation for a wild population but probably not admired by daffodil breeders. I was wondering why the species epithet bestowed on the pictured plant is "albimarginatus" and not "albomarginatus," which is more usual. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From msittner@mcn.org Thu, 06 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <20140307022350.38A1EE950E@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Narcissus albimarginatus Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2014 18:23:23 -0800 Thanks Maggi for the link to photos of this beautiful Narcissus. Rafa was willing to let us add his photos of it to the PBS wiki and David Pilling has done so. In the past Rafa contributed a number of really nice photos of species that weren't represented on the wiki. I encourage others to do so if they grow or have seen species in the wild that are missing from the wiki. Mary Sue From penstemon@Q.com Thu, 06 Mar 2014 20:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: Narcissus albimarginatus Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2014 20:50:41 -0700 I was wondering why the species epithet bestowed on the pictured plant is "albimarginatus" and not "albomarginatus," which is more usual. This is because of the current (entirely specious) notion that scientific names are actual classical Latin words, and therefore should be spelled as such. (The spelling "albomarginatus" apparently derives from New Latin, in which case it is correct. It could be argued that spelling the name "albimarginatus" is incorrect, since New Latin created the spelling rules, not classical Latin.) But the boat carrying the idea that scientific names are real Latin words sailed long ago anyway, when scientists began to name things after people whose names could never occur in Latin, new or old, names like Darwin. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Fri, 07 Mar 2014 00:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <310557236.1817.1394176904472.JavaMail.www@wwinf1m17> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2014 08:21:44 +0100 (CET) Dear Aaron, I have a giant form but it was not labelled himalayan when I bought it. How does that form differ from verticillatum as seen in the alps here? Mark " Message du 07/03/14 02:50   > Objet : [pbs] Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" > > Is anyone growing this plant as it has been offered in the trade? I cannot find anyone in the US that is currently selling it, but I would interested in obtaining a division. > > Aaron Floden > east Tennessee" _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bulborum@gmail.com Fri, 07 Mar 2014 02:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2014 10:48:39 +0100 I have it for you Aaron I send it with the other next week Just PM me to remember for next week It's a busy time Roland R de Boer 2238 Route de la Maugardiere F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com Facebook Groups:https://www.facebook.com/groups/518187888211511/ Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bulborum/452518118130496 2014-03-07 2:49 GMT+01:00 aaron floden : > Is anyone growing this plant as it has been offered in the trade? I cannot > find anyone in the US that is currently selling it, but I would interested > in obtaining a division. > > Aaron Floden > east Tennessee > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Fri, 07 Mar 2014 04:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1394192279.45189.YahooMailBasic@web122302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2014 03:37:59 -0800 (PST) Mark, The "Himalayan Giant" was a name given to an Indian form of "verticillatum" and sold by Hoog and Dix. It seems to be abundant in nurseries in the EU, but mostly absent in the US. It should have larger flowers on longer peduncles and it is a larger plant overall. I am not sure what it really is at this point, but I know it is not verticillatum. The problem is that there are several non-cirrhose, whorled, leaved Polygonatum in northern India, Nepal and eastward into China. Aaron -------------------------------------------- On Fri, 3/7/14, Mark BROWN wrote: Subject: Re: [pbs] Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" Dear Aaron, I have a giant form but it was not labelled himalayan when I bought it. How does that form differ from verticillatum as seen in the alps here? Mark From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Fri, 07 Mar 2014 05:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <90463699.9554.1394195851660.JavaMail.www@wwinf1g18> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2014 13:37:31 +0100 (CET) Aaron, OK. I will keep an eye on this plant to see if it fits your description. I will try to find out just where my plant originated too. Mark > Message du 07/03/14 12:38 > De : "aaron floden" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > Copie à : > Objet : Re: [pbs] Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" > > Mark, > > The "Himalayan Giant" was a name given to an Indian form of "verticillatum" and sold by Hoog and Dix. It seems to be abundant in nurseries in the EU, but mostly absent in the US. > > It should have larger flowers on longer peduncles and it is a larger plant overall. I am not sure what it really is at this point, but I know it is not verticillatum. The problem is that there are several non-cirrhose, whorled, leaved Polygonatum in northern India, Nepal and eastward into China. > > Aaron > > > -------------------------------------------- > On Fri, 3/7/14, Mark BROWN wrote: > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" > > Dear Aaron, > I have a giant form but it was not labelled > himalayan when I bought it. > How does that > form differ from verticillatum as seen in the alps here? > Mark > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri, 07 Mar 2014 05:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2014 13:02:34 +0000 Jim, autumn is not the best time as they root early prior to flowering. One or two months after they have entered dormancy is very good. Soil or mix rather on the dry side as the corm tunics peel off easily. The slightest wound to the corms will make them rot. > I was hoping to see some factual info that might give me an optimum time to dig clumps and divide to replant. From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Fri, 07 Mar 2014 08:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1394208249.94034.YahooMailNeo@web121302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Narcissus albimarginatus Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2014 08:04:09 -0800 (PST) Although I'm in agreement with Bob Nold about the specious nature of the belief that scientific names are actual classical Latin words, I'm puzzled about the conclusions he draws from this. In particular, I'm going to take aim at his seeming concept of New Latin. In evoking the concept of New Latin to justify such spellings as albomarginatus, Nold cites the spelling rules of New Latin as if there were such a thing, already codified and established. To be sure, there are several centuries of practice to consider when attempting to discern such rules, but the taxonomists of the last four centuries (and before) did not have a "rule book of New Latin orthography" to consult. They simply did what they thought would work: they wrote the rules, so to speak, as they went. And by and large that meant basing their practice  on their understanding of classical Latin and Greek precedents,  understanding which seems to have varied from country to country. And then there is this: current taxonomic practice is itself practice in the tradition of New Latin. If contemporary taxonomists decide that scientific names should now be spelled a certain way, how is that decision any different than the decision in past times to spell some words in ways not fully in agreement with classical Latin precedent for similarly constructed words? That the motivation for doing this among some contemporary taxonomists is to allow current usage to mirror classical usage is not the real issue: isn't the real issue is to standardize orthographic practice? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, still freezing.      On Thursday, March 6, 2014 10:56 PM, penstemon wrote: I was wondering why the species epithet bestowed on the pictured plant is "albimarginatus" and not "albomarginatus," which is more usual. This is because of the current (entirely specious) notion that scientific names are actual classical Latin words, and therefore should be spelled as such. (The spelling "albomarginatus" apparently derives from New Latin, in which case it is correct. It could be argued that spelling the name "albimarginatus" is incorrect, since New Latin created the spelling rules, not classical Latin.) But the boat carrying the idea that scientific names are real Latin words sailed long ago anyway, when scientists began to name things after people whose names could never occur in Latin, new or old, names like Darwin. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Fri, 07 Mar 2014 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Ton Wijnen's mystery hippy... Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2014 17:06:21 +0000 Hi, The list had a question from Ton Wijnen about a mystery Hippeastrum, he attached a photo which meant his message was held. You can see the photo here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#Wijnen Ton's message was as follows: --8<-- Hello dear plantlovers I have a question. Is the Hippeastrum on the picture H. starkiorum? Or another species? Puniceum? Petiolatum? Who can help me?   Thank you very much Kind regards Ton Wijnen The Netherlands -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 07 Mar 2014 10:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2014 09:22:00 -0800 Aaron wrote: > The "Himalayan Giant" was a name given to an Indian form of > "verticillatum" and sold by Hoog and Dix. It seems to be abundant > in nurseries in the EU, but mostly absent in the US. > > It should have larger flowers on longer peduncles and it is a > larger plant overall. I am not sure what it really is at this > point, but I know it is not verticillatum. The problem is that > there are several non-cirrhose, whorled, leaved Polygonatum in > northern India, Nepal and eastward into China. That seems to explain why I have two different-looking plants under the name Polygonatum verticillatum. One is larger than the other in all parts and spreads faster too. Several interesting Polygonatum species have shown up at nurseries and plant sales in the Portland, Oregon area in recent years, particularly some introduced by Diana Reeck of Collectors Nursery. They are a useful foliage contrast with other shade-tolerant plants such as hostas and ferns, and the stems in flower or later can be cut for elegant, long-lasting arrangements. Although some spread fast, they are shallow-rooted (here, anyway) and thus easily controlled. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From penstemon@Q.com Fri, 07 Mar 2014 10:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: Narcissus albimarginatus Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2014 10:56:22 -0700 And then there is this: current taxonomic practice is itself practice in the tradition of New Latin. If contemporary taxonomists decide that scientific names should now be spelled a certain way, how is that decision any different than the decision in past times to spell some words in ways not fully in agreement with classical Latin precedent for similarly constructed words? That the motivation for doing this among some contemporary taxonomists is to allow current usage to mirror classical usage is not the real issue: isn't the real issue is to standardize orthographic practice? Taxonomic "Latin" is entirely the product of New Latin (the Latin of Linnaeus), not Old Latin (the Latin of Julius Caesar). The spelling rules evolved through common practice, and they seem to amount to two: one, agreement in specific epithets, and two, the person making up the new name gets to spell it any old way they want, even to the point of completely ignoring agreement and the fact that some of the words they use aren't Latin at all (Camassia quamash). Standardizing orthographic practice in a language system which has already declared that the orthography of Old Latin is not to be followed makes very little sense to me, and it makes even less sense for the meaning of the words. Example, changing Penstemon tubaeflorus ("trumpet-flowered") to P. tubiflorus ("tube-flowered"). And no, "tubiflorus" doesn't also mean "trumpet-flowered" in Old Latin, unless someone can show an instance of it being used that way, say in Commentarii de Bello Gallico. And why not then change Calochortus weedii to C. vidii? New Latin, being a written language using letters and aphthongs not known in Old Latin, has no rules of pronunciation based on a language in which those words could never have existed, and the words in New Latin are correctly pronounced as words in the speaker's native tongue. This is tacitly acknowledged in a number of botanical works where pronunciation is given, e.g. Britton & Brown, Munz's California Flora, etc. Bob From npublici@yahoo.com Fri, 07 Mar 2014 19:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1394247643.59035.YahooMailNeo@web140401.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Del Allegood Subject: Ton Wijnen's mystery hippy... Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2014 19:00:43 -0800 (PST) The small,low resolution picture is inadequate for positive Id,but it appears to be H.Striatum.If the color is a light tangerine/salmon color,with a cream,fading to green center,it is more likely to be Striatum,than Petiolatum,because Petiolatum is more red than orange.Also, Striatum usually has a taller, slim scape and larger flowers. On Friday, March 7, 2014 3:35 PM, David Pilling wrote: Hi, The list had a question from Ton Wijnen about a mystery Hippeastrum, he attached a photo which meant his message was held. You can see the photo here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#Wijnen Ton's message was as follows: --8<-- Hello dear plantlovers I have a question. Is the Hippeastrum on the picture H. starkiorum? Or another species? Puniceum? Petiolatum? Who can help me?   Thank you very much Kind regards Ton Wijnen The Netherlands -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk   web: http://www.davidpilling.net From guylep@hotmail.com Sat, 08 Mar 2014 00:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: guy stephane andre l'eplattenier Subject: Early-flowering Fritillaria species and their hardiness Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2014 07:22:22 +0000 Hello Jane, What a list of early blooming Fritillaria.... when I think I have been trying lots in my garden in southern Catalunya/ Spain , zone 9, 120 m above sea level, dry med. climate (450 mm rain) with a problematic dry and windy gap between rains in autumn and rains in Spring. I am preparing a list of all the bulbs I experimented here, in alphabetical order. I have just passed letter F, anh had to confess I was very disappointed with them, but as you can imagine I would be ready to try again and again. I have got Fritillaria biflora from one BX, they grow well , in pot for the moment, and I also would like to try some more californian species, if possible to see if they stand better the climate we have here. So, may I ask you, according to your long experience with Fritillarias, in this case, which one I could or should try here. Fritillaria imperialis of course, but aso F. persica, F. raddeana, etc ..failed here, for example. Fritillarias are not moutain plants , do they all need cold ( we had no frost this year, for example ) or constant humidity when growing? By chance, I am at letter H in my list , I have gorgeous Hesperantha vaginata blooming these days and lots of other bulbous plants do well here in open air Kind regards and thanks in advance Guy L'Eplattenier > Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2014 13:01:22 -0800 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > From: janemcgary@earthlink.net > Subject: [pbs] Early-flowering Fritillaria species and their hardiness > > A walk through the bulb house this morning was enlivened by the first > opening flowers of a number of Fritillaria species. Most of them are > on the "dry" side, plants from semi-arid Asian and eastern > Mediterranean regions. They include the following: > Fritillaria raddeana > Fritillaria zagrica > Fritillaria eduardii > Fritillaria bucharica > Fritillaria obliqua > Fritillaria gibbosa > Fritillaria stenanthera (three forms) > Fritillaria striata > Fritillaria chitralensis > Fritillaria arriana > Fritillaria euboica > Fritillaria serpentinicola > Fritillaria sewertzowii > Fritillaria latifolia > Fritillaria caucasica > > Well represented is the section named for the familiar Fritillaria > imperialis (not in flower here yet): raddeana, eduardii, and > chitralensis. The Rhinopetalum section also tends to be early, with > gibbosa, arriana, stenanthera, and bucharica. F. euboica and F. > serpentinicola are Greek species sometimes included in Fritillaria > carica, which is just in bud here. The earliest American species as > always is F. striata from the mountains of southern California. I > grew all these plants from seed, beginning with F. raddeana in 1988 > (the original bulbs are still flowering, along with their seedlings). > > We have had two spells of severe frost lasting about a week each, one > in early December and one in early February when some of these plants > had emerging foliage; F. striata had leaves up during the December > freeze, when the temperature dropped one night to 17 F here. F. > obliqua, native to the area of Athens, was in bud during the February > freeze down to 20 F, and showed no damage. This shows that the > literature claiming some species to be particularly tender should > probably be looked at critically. My plants went through temperatures > down to 20 F (minus 6 C) regularly at my former home, where I had > them in unheated cold frames. The present bulb house is unheated and > covered only with a transparent roof; the sides are wire mesh. The > bulbs are in raised beds of very well drained soil. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Sat, 08 Mar 2014 08:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1394294121.7095.YahooMailBasic@web122306.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2014 07:55:21 -0800 (PST) Jane, Yes, Diana, Hinkley, Kelly & Sue, and others have introduced some great Chinese and NE Indian Polygonatum into cultivation. I still need to get Diana's collections. Most of the European forms of verticillatum I have are relatively small and usually remain under 2 feet tall. They have terete spreading rhizomes and make small patches. Most of the Polygonatum prefer their rhizomes right at or just below the soil surface. Planted too deeply can lead to rot, but can also lead to quicker rhizome branching in species that typically offset. Aaron -------------------------------------------- On Sat, 3/8/14, Jane McGary wrote: Subject: Re: [pbs] Polygonatum vert. "Himalayan Giant" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Saturday, March 8, 2014, 1:22 AM That seems to explain why I have two different-looking plants under the name Polygonatum verticillatum. One is larger than the other in all parts and spreads faster too. Several interesting Polygonatum species have shown up at nurseries and plant sales in the Portland, Oregon area in recent years, particularly some introduced by Diana Reeck of Collectors Nursery. They are a useful foliage contrast with other shade-tolerant plants such as hostas and ferns, and the stems in flower or later can be cut for elegant, long-lasting arrangements. Although some spread fast, they are shallow-rooted (here, anyway) and thus easily controlled. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From xerantheum@gmail.com Sat, 08 Mar 2014 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Ton Wijnen's mystery hippy... Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2014 10:23:08 -0600 Hello Del and other wiki users, There is in fact a higher resolution photo hidden behind the small one. If you click on the thumbnail, the image will open up larger. At the bottom of the image, there is a link that says "Click for high res. version". If there is a high resolution image, you will see this link. Enjoy, Nhu On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 9:00 PM, Del Allegood wrote: > The small,low resolution picture is inadequate for positive Id, > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 08 Mar 2014 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Early-flowering Fritillaria species and their hardiness Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2014 13:00:49 -0800 Guy wrote: > I am preparing a list of all the bulbs I experimented here, in > alphabetical order. I have just passed letter F, anh had to confess > I was very disappointed with them, but as you can imagine I would > be ready to try again and again. I have got Fritillaria biflora > from one BX, they grow well , in pot for the moment, and I also > would like to try some more californian species, if possible to see > if they stand better the climate we have here. > > So, may I ask you, according to your long experience with > Fritillarias, in this case, which one I could or should try here. > > Fritillaria imperialis of course, but aso F. persica, F. > raddeana, etc ..failed here, for example. >Fritillarias are not moutain plants , do they all need cold ( we had >no frost this year, for example ) or constant humidity when growing? The genus Fritillaria inhabits many different kinds of habitats in Europe, Asia, and North America. The species Guy mentions, Fritillaria biflora, is native to California but has a large range, and different forms can be grown well in different areas of the UK, Europe, and North America. If you grow it in a pot, it should be a deep pot. Another American species that has a very wide range in both latitude and elevation is Fritillaria affinis, which is available in Europe (I think) in a handsome sterile triploid form called 'Wayne Roderick' or "tristulis". I don't know what the cold requirements in the genus are, because we always have some frost in winter where I live. Some people think Fritillaria striata is a warm grower, but it occurs in the mountains where winters are frosty. I believe some growers in the UK grow Fritillaria species in alpine houses that are kept above the freezing point. I have never kept them in a heated frame or house. As for their moisture requirements (I think that is what Guy means by "humidity" -- moisture in the soil, not in the air), most of them flower at the time of the greatest soil moisture, but the alpine species would experience a dry dormancy under snow. Alpine bulbs and those from the far north are typically more difficult to grow well in snow-free, lowland areas such as mine. Some Fritillaria species, such as Fritillaria pluriflora in California and Fritillaria meleagris in Europe, are in very wet conditions at their time of flowering; the former's habitat dries up in summer, but I think meleagris always needs some moisture, which makes it a good choice for the irrigated border or summer-rainfall areas. Some species tolerate very dry soil conditions in summer, as long as they are planted deep enough. I have a dry and a moist bed in my bulb house and both beds contain many Fritillaria species whose native habitats I have studied before planting them. Guy should not give up on the species that failed for him. If he bought them as bulbs, they may have been stored too dry or otherwise treated badly. I have never grown purchased Fritillaria imperialis bulbs successfully, but I have good seed-grown plants of that species. (They do take a long time to flower from seed.) Good luck! Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From klazina1@gmail.com Sat, 08 Mar 2014 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <531BA123.9060407@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Bill the BulbBaron Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2014 12:00:51 +1300 I emailed you Bill, a week ago about,has it got lost in your junk mail by any chance? Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From billthebulbbaron@aol.com Sat, 08 Mar 2014 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <82D4AFCB-9017-465A-8449-0AE677A16E39@aol.com> From: billthebulbbaron@aol.com Subject: Bill the BulbBaron Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2014 15:13:04 -0800 never got it please resend website: www.BilltheBulbBaron.com (click on: Availability List) Please make all checks payable to William R.P. Welch, 1031 Cayuga Street Apt B, Santa Cruz, CA 95062, USA (831) 236-8397 Best wishes, Bill the Bulb Baron (William R.P. Welch) On Mar 8, 2014, at 3:00 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > I emailed you Bill, a week ago about,has it got lost in your junk mail > by any chance? > > Ina > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From blee811@aol.com Sat, 08 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <8D109570D95E54B-1E00-1F0F6@webmail-d234.sysops.aol.com> From: Bill Lee Subject: Bill the BulbBaron Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2014 21:33:13 -0500 (EST) Try me again. Bill Lee -----Original Message----- From: Ina Crossley To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Sat, Mar 8, 2014 6:01 pm Subject: [pbs] re Bill the BulbBaron I emailed you Bill, a week ago about,has it got lost in your junk mail by any chance? Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From klazina1@gmail.com Sat, 08 Mar 2014 20:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <531BEAEE.50300@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Bill the BulbBaron Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2014 17:15:42 +1300 It was to Bill the Bulb Baron, William Welch, who I have emailed again and heard nothing back from, so I give up. Sorry Bill Lee Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 9/03/2014 3:33 p.m., Bill Lee wrote: > > Try me again. > Bill Lee > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ina Crossley > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Sat, Mar 8, 2014 6:01 pm > Subject: [pbs] re Bill the BulbBaron > > > I emailed you Bill, a week ago about,has it got lost in your junk mail > by any chance? > > Ina > From makikogotowiderman@me.com Sun, 09 Mar 2014 12:17:11 -0700 Message-Id: <049DAB4A-B164-47DB-A889-32FB25B42CC5@me.com> From: Makiko Goto-Widerman Subject: Early-flowering Fritillaria species and their hardiness Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2014 11:29:29 -0700 Hi Jane, Long time before I saw a sign of Fritillaria Festival in Jacksonville, OR. It was earlier season to see the flower. I heard that the particular wild Fritillaria blooms only in Jacksonville area. Do you know what kind of Fritillaria? Makiko On Mar 8, 2014, at 1:00 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > Guy wrote: >> I am preparing a list of all the bulbs I experimented here, in >> alphabetical order. I have just passed letter F, anh had to confess >> I was very disappointed with them, but as you can imagine I would >> be ready to try again and again. I have got Fritillaria biflora >> from one BX, they grow well , in pot for the moment, and I also >> would like to try some more californian species, if possible to see >> if they stand better the climate we have here. >> >> So, may I ask you, according to your long experience with >> Fritillarias, in this case, which one I could or should try here. >> >> Fritillaria imperialis of course, but aso F. persica, F. >> raddeana, etc ..failed here, for example. >> Fritillarias are not moutain plants , do they all need cold ( we had >> no frost this year, for example ) or constant humidity when growing? > > The genus Fritillaria inhabits many different kinds of habitats in > Europe, Asia, and North America. The species Guy mentions, > Fritillaria biflora, is native to California but has a large range, > and different forms can be grown well in different areas of the UK, > Europe, and North America. If you grow it in a pot, it should be a > deep pot. Another American species that has a very wide range in both > latitude and elevation is Fritillaria affinis, which is available in > Europe (I think) in a handsome sterile triploid form called 'Wayne > Roderick' or "tristulis". I don't know what the cold requirements in > the genus are, because we always have some frost in winter where I > live. Some people think Fritillaria striata is a warm grower, but it > occurs in the mountains where winters are frosty. I believe some > growers in the UK grow Fritillaria species in alpine houses that are > kept above the freezing point. I have never kept them in a heated > frame or house. > > As for their moisture requirements (I think that is what Guy means by > "humidity" -- moisture in the soil, not in the air), most of them > flower at the time of the greatest soil moisture, but the alpine > species would experience a dry dormancy under snow. Alpine bulbs and > those from the far north are typically more difficult to grow well in > snow-free, lowland areas such as mine. Some Fritillaria species, such > as Fritillaria pluriflora in California and Fritillaria meleagris in > Europe, are in very wet conditions at their time of flowering; the > former's habitat dries up in summer, but I think meleagris always > needs some moisture, which makes it a good choice for the irrigated > border or summer-rainfall areas. Some species tolerate very dry soil > conditions in summer, as long as they are planted deep enough. I have > a dry and a moist bed in my bulb house and both beds contain many > Fritillaria species whose native habitats I have studied before planting them. > > Guy should not give up on the species that failed for him. If he > bought them as bulbs, they may have been stored too dry or otherwise > treated badly. I have never grown purchased Fritillaria imperialis > bulbs successfully, but I have good seed-grown plants of that > species. (They do take a long time to flower from seed.) > > Good luck! > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun, 09 Mar 2014 13:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Early-flowering Fritillaria species and their hardiness Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2014 12:36:02 -0700 Makiko asked, >Hi Jane, >Long time before I saw a sign of Fritillaria Festival in >Jacksonville, OR. It was earlier season to see the flower. >I heard that the particular wild Fritillaria blooms only in Jacksonville area. >Do you know what kind of Fritillaria? It is Fritillaria gentneri, a natural hybrid between Fritillaria recurva and Fritillaria affinis. (Perhaps it should be called F. x gentneri?) It can be seen not only in Jacksonville but also in other places in that part of southern Oregon. The populations show quite a bit of variation, ranging from flowers that look just like F. recurva to those that are much darker and larger and not recurved, showing more influence of F. affinis. It is a listed species and therefore cannot be sold in Oregon, which is too bad because it would be extremely easy to propagate selected clones from the hundreds of "rice grain" bulblets that mature bulbs produce. The main threat to the existence of the wild plants is deer, which have been excluded from some Fritillaria populations. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From ksayce@willapabay.org Sun, 09 Mar 2014 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <177D85E7-82BE-4E58-946B-AD8064F35174@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Beatrix Potter and bulbs Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2014 13:44:22 -0700 Reading Beatrix Potter's Gardening Life by Marta McDowell, the winter and spring sections discuss many bulbs that she planted in her gardens, including thousands of snowdrops, crocus, winter aconites, lilies, and others. This look back at a prolific gardener of a century ago reminded me of how long many bulbs have been in cultivation. Kathleen From jwickham@sbcglobal.net Sun, 09 Mar 2014 19:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1394417512.60114.YahooMailNeo@web185305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: John Wickham Subject: Flop-overs Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2014 19:11:52 -0700 (PDT) A lot of my Moraeas and species Gladiolus seem to flopping over in bloom. Do they need a deeper pot, to potted deeper? Or is this always going to be a problem with these taxa when they're potted? From arnold140@verizon.net Sun, 09 Mar 2014 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <32343941.1121312.1394419394732.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Flop-overs Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2014 21:43:14 -0500 (CDT) John: I see this in many Gladioli as well. Seems to me that they grow among taller plants. Also our light level here in N. America may be too low. Plants don't develop the tissue turgor that they need to stay upright. Most noticeable in plants in the Arum genus. Arnold On 03/09/14, John Wickham wrote: A lot of my Moraeas and species Gladiolus seem to flopping over in bloom. Do they need a deeper pot, to potted deeper? Or is this always going to be a problem with these taxa when they're potted? From ton1.wijnen@planet.nl Mon, 10 Mar 2014 08:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Ton Wijnen" Subject: Ton Wijnen's mystery hippy... Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2014 16:04:09 +0100 Thank you very much Kind regards Ton -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Del Allegood Verzonden: zaterdag 8 maart 2014 4:01 Aan: Pacific Bulb Society Onderwerp: Re: [pbs] Ton Wijnen's mystery hippy... The small,low resolution picture is inadequate for positive Id,but it appears to be H.Striatum.If the color is a light tangerine/salmon color,with a cream,fading to green center,it is more likely to be Striatum,than Petiolatum,because Petiolatum is more red than orange.Also, Striatum usually has a taller, slim scape and larger flowers. On Friday, March 7, 2014 3:35 PM, David Pilling wrote: Hi, The list had a question from Ton Wijnen about a mystery Hippeastrum, he attached a photo which meant his message was held. You can see the photo here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#Wijnen Ton's message was as follows: --8<-- Hello dear plantlovers I have a question. Is the Hippeastrum on the picture H. starkiorum? Or another species? Puniceum? Petiolatum? Who can help me?   Thank you very much Kind regards Ton Wijnen The Netherlands -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk   web: http://www.davidpilling.net From makikogotowiderman@me.com Mon, 10 Mar 2014 09:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <051A3883-F30A-4294-B29A-02784A989AC3@me.com> From: Makiko Goto-Widerman Subject: Early-flowering Fritillaria species and their hardiness Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2014 08:26:31 -0700 Jane, Thank you. I always appreciate your precise botanical knowledge. Makiko On Mar 9, 2014, at 12:36 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > Makiko asked, >> Hi Jane, >> Long time before I saw a sign of Fritillaria Festival in >> Jacksonville, OR. It was earlier season to see the flower. >> I heard that the particular wild Fritillaria blooms only in Jacksonville area. >> Do you know what kind of Fritillaria? > > It is Fritillaria gentneri, a natural hybrid between Fritillaria > recurva and Fritillaria affinis. (Perhaps it should be called F. x > gentneri?) It can be seen not only in Jacksonville but also in other > places in that part of southern Oregon. The populations show quite a > bit of variation, ranging from flowers that look just like F. recurva > to those that are much darker and larger and not recurved, showing > more influence of F. affinis. It is a listed species and therefore > cannot be sold in Oregon, which is too bad because it would be > extremely easy to propagate selected clones from the hundreds of > "rice grain" bulblets that mature bulbs produce. The main threat to > the existence of the wild plants is deer, which have been excluded > from some Fritillaria populations. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From teck11@embarqmail.com Mon, 10 Mar 2014 10:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: <005b01cf3c7c$2ecb4b40$8c61e1c0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Flop-overs Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2014 12:17:05 -0400 John, If you are referring to inadequate strength in the bloomstalk, this is due to a relative lack of cellulose in the periphery of the stalk, which in turn is due to a lack of stimulation from air movement. The closest I've seen in the literature is thigmotropism, but it is distinctly different. I could be much more verbose on the subject but the short answer is to play an oscillating fan across them periodically during their development. I do that with all my seedlings now before trying to transplant them, taking the success rate for tomatoes and peppers from near 0% to near 100%. This is the root of the mythical "hardening off" effect, where you place the seedlings outdoors for a week before transplanting them. Tim -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of John Wickham Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2014 10:12 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Flop-overs A lot of my Moraeas and species Gladiolus seem to flopping over in bloom. Do they need a deeper pot, to potted deeper? Or is this always going to be a problem with these taxa when they're potted? From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 10 Mar 2014 13:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Flop-overs Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2014 19:48:50 +0000 Etiolated plants will have a tendency to flop - more light helps. They can be made more sturdy just by brushing them gently with the back of ones hand whenever the chance occurs. I think that many of these plants are designed to flop in nature anyway, it is an effective way to clobber any competing plants! not a desirable trait in a crowded green house though. Peter (UK) On 10 March 2014 16:17, Tim Eck wrote: > the short answer is to play > an oscillating fan across them periodically during their development. I do > that with all my seedlings now before trying to transplant them, > > A lot of my Moraeas and species Gladiolus seem to flopping over in bloom. > Do > they need a deeper pot, to potted deeper? Or is this always going to be a > problem with these taxa when they're potted? > From pelarg@aol.com Mon, 10 Mar 2014 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <8D10ABD7DF5CB5E-2784-29A73@webmail-d253.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Flop-overs Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2014 17:19:01 -0400 (EDT) Cooler temperatures and increased light seem to make the plants grow more compact. Ernie DeMarie NY Z 7 -----Original Message----- From: arnold140 To: pbs Sent: Mon, Mar 10, 2014 2:32 am Subject: Re: [pbs] Flop-overs John: I see this in many Gladioli as well. Seems to me that they grow among taller plants. Also our light level here in N. America may be too low. Plants don't develop the tissue turgor that they need to stay upright. Most noticeable in plants in the Arum genus. Arnold On 03/09/14, John Wickham wrote: A lot of my Moraeas and species Gladiolus seem to flopping over in bloom. Do they need a deeper pot, to potted deeper? Or is this always going to be a problem with these taxa when they're potted? From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 10 Mar 2014 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1394497348.62794.YahooMailNeo@web121306.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Early-flowering Fritillaria species and their hardiness Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2014 17:22:28 -0700 (PDT) Frits are just waking up here in Maryland. Last week there was snow and single digit F temperatures. Today the first frits are appearing above ground - F. stenanthera, F. biflora and F. pluriflora. Temperatures in the 60 degree F range are predicted today and tomorrow. To put things in context, tommies and Crocus korolkowii and winter aconites are blooming, too.  Jim McKenney On Monday, March 10, 2014 11:27 AM, Makiko Goto-Widerman wrote: Jane, Thank you.  I always appreciate your precise botanical knowledge. Makiko On Mar 9, 2014, at 12:36 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > Makiko asked, >> Hi Jane, >> Long time before I saw a sign of  Fritillaria Festival in >> Jacksonville, OR. It was earlier season to see the flower. >> I heard that the particular wild Fritillaria blooms only in Jacksonville area. >> Do you know what kind of Fritillaria? > > It is Fritillaria gentneri, a natural hybrid between Fritillaria > recurva and Fritillaria affinis. (Perhaps it should be called F. x > gentneri?) It can be seen not only in Jacksonville but also in other > places in that part of southern Oregon. The populations show quite a > bit of variation, ranging from flowers that look just like F. recurva > to those that are much darker and larger and not recurved, showing > more influence of F. affinis. It is a listed species and therefore > cannot be sold in Oregon, which is too bad because it would be > extremely easy to propagate selected clones from the hundreds of > "rice grain" bulblets that mature bulbs produce. The main threat to > the existence of the wild plants is deer, which have been excluded > from some Fritillaria populations. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From vc2m@mac.com Mon, 10 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <05C5EDF9-987F-49BD-815A-C1D0A65F3359@mac.com> From: VIJAY CHANDHOK Subject: Early-flowering Fritillaria species and their hardiness Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2014 20:42:45 -0400 Winter Aconites started blooming in Pittsburgh two days ago. Vijay On Mar 10, 2014, at 8:22 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Frits are just waking up here in Maryland. Last week there was snow and single digit F temperatures. Today the first frits are appearing above ground - F. stenanthera, F. biflora and F. pluriflora. Temperatures in the 60 degree F range are predicted today and tomorrow. To put things in context, tommies and Crocus korolkowii and winter aconites are blooming, too. > > Jim McKenney > > > > On Monday, March 10, 2014 11:27 AM, Makiko Goto-Widerman wrote: > > Jane, > Thank you. I always appreciate your precise botanical knowledge. > Makiko > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 9, 2014, at 12:36 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > >> Makiko asked, >>> Hi Jane, >>> Long time before I saw a sign of Fritillaria Festival in >>> Jacksonville, OR. It was earlier season to see the flower. >>> I heard that the particular wild Fritillaria blooms only in Jacksonville area. >>> Do you know what kind of Fritillaria? >> >> It is Fritillaria gentneri, a natural hybrid between Fritillaria >> recurva and Fritillaria affinis. (Perhaps it should be called F. x >> gentneri?) It can be seen not only in Jacksonville but also in other >> places in that part of southern Oregon. The populations show quite a >> bit of variation, ranging from flowers that look just like F. recurva >> to those that are much darker and larger and not recurved, showing >> more influence of F. affinis. It is a listed species and therefore >> cannot be sold in Oregon, which is too bad because it would be >> extremely easy to propagate selected clones from the hundreds of >> "rice grain" bulblets that mature bulbs produce. The main threat to >> the existence of the wild plants is deer, which have been excluded >> from some Fritillaria populations. >> >> Jane McGary >> Portland, Oregon, USA >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From michaelcmace@gmail.com Tue, 11 Mar 2014 10:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <002d01cf3d4a$f6cf51d0$e46df570$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Flop-overs Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2014 09:57:17 -0700 John wrote: >> A lot of my Moraeas and species Gladiolus seem to flopping over in bloom. Do they need a deeper pot, to potted deeper? Or is this always going to be a problem with these taxa when they're potted? I think the answers already given make a lot of good points. A couple of thoughts... --Although it's natural for some types of plant to flop over, it's not natural for most of the species in the genera you mentioned to do that, even when grown in pots. Especially not when they are in flower -- the flowers need to be held up where pollinators can get to them. --I grow a lot of Moraea and Glad species in pots. There are many causes that can make them flop over. Here are some I have done: Pot gets too dry and plants wilt a bit, causing the stems to weaken, plant falls over. Poor drainage / pot is too wet. Causes root damage, and plant wilts as above. Not enough wind, followed by a severe windstorm. This can cause stem damage, although often they bend in the middle instead of the base. Moisture is correct, but a bad ingredient in your potting soil damages the plant. I suspect I did that one year. But the first symptom is lack of vigor in the plants overall; wilting comes later. Not enough light, plant grows too tall and spindly, falls over at blooming time because there's more weight at the top. Corms are too shallow. How deep did you plant then, John? If the tops are an inch below the surface, I doubt this is the problem. Too much fertilizer, plants grow too vigorously and fall over. This happens with Moraea polystachya for me most years, but I do it anyway because I like all the flowers. How long are the leaves, and do they look green or yellowish? If yellowish, the plants may have taken damage from something. If the leaves are green but very long (over a foot), I'd suspect low light levels. John, I apologize, but I don't remember where you garden or what the conditions are there. If you give me more info, I may be able to guess better. Good luck! Mike San Jose, CA (Zone 9, min temp 20F / -7C) From jwickham@sbcglobal.net Tue, 11 Mar 2014 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1394565444.53422.YahooMailNeo@web185301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: John Wickham Subject: Flop-overs Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2014 12:17:24 -0700 (PDT) Lots of great advice all around, thank you. I'm in Los Angeles. I think most everything is planted an inch below the surface, but will check that. My Moraea polystachya don't flop nearly as much as some of the others. I believe drainage is good, but they could be drying out too much. They are not in full sun throughout the day (some morning indirect sunlight, full sun rest of the day), so that might be causing excessive, weak growth.  Thanks everyone, much to think about. ________________________________ From: Michael Mace To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 9:57 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Flop-overs John wrote: >> A lot of my Moraeas and species Gladiolus seem to flopping over in bloom. Do they need a deeper pot, to potted deeper? Or is this always going to be a problem with these taxa when they're potted? I think the answers already given make a lot of good points. A couple of thoughts... --Although it's natural for some types of plant to flop over, it's not natural for most of the species in the genera you mentioned to do that, even when grown in pots. Especially not when they are in flower -- the flowers need to be held up where pollinators can get to them. --I grow a lot of Moraea and Glad species in pots. There are many causes that can make them flop over. Here are some I have done:     Pot gets too dry and plants wilt a bit, causing the stems to weaken, plant falls over.     Poor drainage / pot is too wet. Causes root damage, and plant wilts as above.     Not enough wind, followed by a severe windstorm. This can cause stem damage, although often they bend in the middle instead of the base.     Moisture is correct, but a bad ingredient in your potting soil damages the plant. I suspect I did that one year. But the first symptom is lack of vigor in the plants overall; wilting comes later.     Not enough light, plant grows too tall and spindly, falls over at blooming time because there's more weight at the top.     Corms are too shallow. How deep did you plant then, John? If the tops are an inch below the surface, I doubt this is the problem.     Too much fertilizer, plants grow too vigorously and fall over. This happens with Moraea polystachya for me most years, but I do it anyway because I like all the flowers. How long are the leaves, and do they look green or yellowish? If yellowish, the plants may have taken damage from something. If the leaves are green but very long (over a foot), I'd suspect low light levels. John, I apologize, but I don't remember where you garden or what the conditions are there. If you give me more info, I may be able to guess better. Good luck! Mike San Jose, CA (Zone 9, min temp 20F / -7C) From tom@yfelin.plus.com Tue, 11 Mar 2014 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1394575517.1762.22.camel@tom-G31M-ES2L> From: Tom Brown Subject: Hello from a new member Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2014 22:05:17 +0000 Hi. I have joined pbs to find info. and planting materials for the Genus tropaeolum. I live in Wales UK, you can see photos. of our countryside at www.yfelin.plus.com . I have selected tropaeolum as a subject for a series of botanical illustrations to be produced over the next year to eighteen months. I have recently acquired the following species.... T. brachyceras; T. ciliatum; T. polyphylum; T. tuberosum Ken Aslet; T. piliphera. I would like to add a few others to the list such as T.azureum and T. incisum. What I am looking for is a variety of species that would show something of the variety of form, habit and colour within the genus in a series of 8 or 10 paintings. Tom From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Tue, 11 Mar 2014 16:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <73B3BE90-A1FD-41AB-85F2-EC3D9FE9E1D6@gmail.com> From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl Subject: Tropaeolum hookerianum Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2014 16:17:38 -0700 Welcome Tom, My Tropaeolum hookerianum is blooming for the first time on 2 year old seedlings, just opened yesterday. The mother plant, from Telos Rare Bulbs, was quite a cloud of purple when it bloomed, but it has stopped emerging. Tropaeolum tubers do that sometimes. I sent seeds of these to the PBS exchange last year and if the bees do their work I'll be sending more seed this year. But 2 years is too long for you to wait for your paintings. So if you would like to refer to my photos I would be happy to share. I take far too many photos, some very close-up and sometimes with a grid useful for drawing. I admire botanical illustration. Let me know what sort of photos would help most. Here are some photos from past years: http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=67537320@N06&q=Tropaeolum This one gives a sense of the small scale of these flowers, with a fly in one: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gastils_garden/6868404330/in/photostream/ - Gastil From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 11 Mar 2014 23:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Hello from a new member Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2014 22:57:50 -0700 Welcome to Tom Brown and his interest in Tropaeolum. Wales is a pretty wet place to grow most of them! A good source of Tropaeolum seed is Chileflora. I also got Tropaeolum beuthii seed last fall from Kurt Vickery and it has germinated. T. azureum seed is often available in AGS and SRGC seed exchanges -- that is where I got it. I had Tropaeolum incisum in my former garden, but when I tried to dig up the tuber, it had plunged so deep and wandered so far I could not find it. Too bad, it is very beautiful! However, it can take several years to raise a flowering plant from seed, or even to get the erratic germination typical of Tropaeolum. Perhaps Tom should plan his painting project for a longer term? Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 03:05 PM 3/11/2014, you wrote: >Hi. I have joined pbs to find info. and planting materials for the Genus >tropaeolum. I live in Wales UK, you can see photos. of our countryside >at www.yfelin.plus.com . I have selected tropaeolum as a subject for a >series of botanical illustrations to be produced over the next year to >eighteen months. I have recently acquired the following species.... >T. brachyceras; T. ciliatum; T. polyphylum; T. tuberosum Ken Aslet; >T. piliphera. I would like to add a few others to the list such as T.azureum >and T. incisum. What I am looking for is a variety of species that would show >something of the variety of form, habit and colour within the genus >in a series of 8 >or 10 paintings. >Tom From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 11 Mar 2014 23:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Korean researcher seeking material for genetic analysis Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2014 23:01:18 -0700 If you would like to assist Dr. Kim with the project mentioned in this inquiry to the PBS website, please reply to him, not to this list. Thanks! Jane McGary Membership COordinator Subject: PBS website contact:ask about plant materials >From: Jung Sung Kim (PhD.) > >This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. Hello, this >is Dr. Kim at Gachon University of Korea. We are studying the >phylogenetic relationship of Liliales members using the chloroplast >genome, and trying to collect the plant materials in worldwide. >However, it is very difficult to obtain the plant materials of >Burchiardia, Iphigenia, Uvularia and Wurmbea because it was fail to >grow up the seed which was got from the market on website. So I >contact to you whether you can help us for resolving this big >problem. If you can give me the information your colleagues who can >send us the identified and dried plant materials, it will be very >helpful to our research. Please consider my ask positively.... Thank >you so much.... -- Pacific Bulb Society web site email: >website@pacificbulbsociety.org From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 12 Mar 2014 00:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <531FFFF8.3050208@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Rhodophiala bakeri Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 19:34:32 +1300 I havemy first flower in Rhodophiala bakeri. It is a gorgeous peachy colour, but it has white stripes on the petals. As the seed originally came from Chileflora, is it possible to have this variation? As the photos I Googled of the flower, don't seem to show the stripe. https://picasaweb.google.com/105705718728872493718/Rhodophiala#5989786073320922658 Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed, 12 Mar 2014 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Tropaeolum hookerianum Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 08:26:05 -0500 Hi Gastil, That is a good number of seeds. I am not usually able to set seeds on my Tropaeolum in Berkeley. Not sure why...there are lots of bees buzzing around. And when these plants do actually make seeds, the stem withered before they're able to mature. Nhu On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 6:17 PM, Gastil Gastil-Buhl wrote: > Tropaeolum tubers do that sometimes. I sent seeds of these to the PBS > exchange last year and if the bees do their work I'll be sending more seed > this year. > From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 12 Mar 2014 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <5320AB39.2050305@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Rhodophiala bakeri (possibly R. moelleri) Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 07:45:13 +1300 My apologies, this is the right link. Thank you George and Gastil for mentioning the link not working. Have just been doing battle with Flickr and Google+ (I hate the problems that is causing with links) and find the link part most frustrating. I havemy first flower in Rhodophiala bakeri. It is a gorgeous peachy colour, but it has white stripes on the petals. As the seed originally came from Chileflora, is it possible to have this variation? As the photos I Googled of the flower, don't seem to show the stripe. https://picasaweb.google.com/105705718728872493718/Rhodophiala?authkey=Gv1sRgCOHJ_o3Q8dyN3AE And if you are correct George, this may actually be R. moelleri, which would be wonderful. Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 12 Mar 2014 13:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1394653988.65529.YahooMailNeo@web185005.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Haemanthus barkerae seed germination Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 12:53:08 -0700 (PDT) I harvested 8 seeds last December, off my Haemanthus barkerae bulb which produced two separate blooms 3 months earlier, in September.  Two of the seeds germinated and produced leaves almost immediately ... but the other seeds have yet to do so.  The remaining seeds themselves seem to appear healthy, plump and solid and unaffected by fungi or molds.  I've kept them moist, in bright light but not direct sunlight, outdoors this past very mild winter here in San Diego.  Should I continue to wait and give them a chance at germination?  Should seeds of this species be completely covered, for better germination? here's a shot of them as of today: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13111035143/ here's the bloom last September: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13111035143/ the seeds when harvested last December: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/11506436016/ Ken Blackford San Diego, California  From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 12 Mar 2014 13:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1394654915.90455.YahooMailNeo@web185005.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Fw: Haemanthus barkerae seed germination Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 13:08:35 -0700 (PDT) Oops ... thanks Gastil ... yes, a cut and paste error.  The middle link below, of the bloom from last September, should be: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/11506416525/ - Ken ----- Forwarded Message -----    I harvested 8 seeds last December, off my Haemanthus barkerae bulb which produced two separate blooms 3 months earlier, in September.  Two of the seeds germinated and produced leaves almost immediately ... but the other seeds have yet to do so.  The remaining seeds themselves seem to appear healthy, plump and solid and unaffected by fungi or molds.  I've kept them moist, in bright light but not direct sunlight, outdoors this past very mild winter here in San Diego.  Should I continue to wait and give them a chance at germination?  Should seeds of this species be completely covered, for better germination? here's a shot of them as of today: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13111035143/ here's the bloom last September: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13111035143/ the seeds when harvested last December: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/11506436016/ Ken Blackford San Diego, California  From bea.spencer@sympatico.ca Wed, 12 Mar 2014 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: B Spencer Subject: Tropaeolum hookerianum Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 17:34:34 -0400 Since we are discussing tropaeolum, I got some seeds of tropaeolum polyphyllum from Chileflora a couple of years ago and planted then in a quart pot. I had some germination but did not look after the seedlings properly and last summer there was no sign of life in the pot. I kept in anyway in a cool greenhouse over winter and to my surprise I have three shoots in the pot now. The tubers worked themselves to the bottom of the pot and I can see then through the drainage holes. Now what? Should I repot it to a much larger pot? If so, when? Beaver Creek Nurseries had it on their site that tropaeolum polyphyllum is hardy to zone 5. Is it true? Could I plant them in my gravel cactus bed then? Does anybody have any experience with growing it in zone 5, Great Lakes climate? Bea -----Original Message----- From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 7:17 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Tropaeolum hookerianum Welcome Tom, My Tropaeolum hookerianum is blooming for the first time on 2 year old seedlings, just opened yesterday. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 12 Mar 2014 17:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1394668722.49442.YahooMailNeo@web185003.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Mature leaves of Haemanthus bakerae Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 16:58:42 -0700 (PDT) Related to my previous post ... I did not see a picture of mature leaves of Haemanthus bakerae, on the PBS website, with which I could compare my own, so here is a link to those of mine today: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13115359543/ I don't recall two sets of leaves last year ... so maybe the bulb split? Ken Blackford San Diego, CA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 12 Mar 2014 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Tropaeolum hookerianum Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 17:21:34 -0700 Bea asked >Since we are discussing tropaeolum, I got some seeds of tropaeolum >polyphyllum from Chileflora a couple of years ago and planted then in a >quart pot. I had some germination but did not look after the seedlings >properly and last summer there was no sign of life in the pot. I kept in >anyway in a cool greenhouse over winter and to my surprise I have three >shoots in the pot now. The tubers worked themselves to the bottom of the >pot and I can see then through the drainage holes. Now what? Should I repot >it to a much larger pot? If so, when? >Beaver Creek Nurseries had it on their site that tropaeolum polyphyllum is >hardy to zone 5. Is it true? Could I plant them in my gravel cactus bed >then? This is a very large-growing plant, with mature specimens producing stems over a meter in length. I have seen it growing well in a washtub with a number of holes drilled in the bottom, set on bricks. In nature it grows in sandy, gravelly places in full sun. A half wine barrel would also be appropriate. I am surprised that Beaver Creek Nursery (located in eastern British Columbia and growing most plants in greenhouses) says it is hardy to Zone 5 (winter lows of minus 10 degrees F, I think). They may be basing this on its elevational range in the Andes, but I always regard plants from its region as experiencing similar conditions in winter to those found in the mid elevations of California's Sierra Nevada. It might survive such temperatures with constant snow cover, but I wouldn't leave it outdoors where I live in western Oregon (theoretically Zone 7, though USDA zones do not apply here) without covering it against winter wet. I think my friend with the plant in the washtub took it into his garage in winter. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From michaelcmace@gmail.com Wed, 12 Mar 2014 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <007d01cf3e54$93ae1c70$bb0a5550$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Flop-overs Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 17:38:26 -0700 John wrote: >They are not in full sun throughout the day (some morning indirect sunlight, full sun rest of the day), so that might be causing excessive, weak growth? No, that should be more than enough sun to give them strong growth. If anything, I wonder if they might be getting too much heat. That could damage the roots and make the plants wilt. How big are the pots, and how often are you watering them? Are the sides of the pots in the sun? If you have a water-retentive soil in 8-inch (20-cm) plastic pots, they should be watered in your climate at least once a week, maybe twice if the weather is dry and the humidity low. And the sides of the pots should be shaded. The direct sun on the pot sides could easily cook the pots, especially if they're dark-colored. If you're using clay pots, they'll need even more water. Bob Werra, who's the dean of Moraea-growers in the US, told me that he thinks they do better in part shade at his home, and he gardens in Ukiah, about 500 miles north of you. I grow mine under strips of garden lattice, so they have broken sun at midday. (If anyone's reading this in the UK, your conditions are completely different. You probably do want to use clay pots and bake them in the sun so the plants will get warm enough.) Mike San Jose, CA From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 12 Mar 2014 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1394671777.88379.YahooMailNeo@web185005.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: blooming today ... Hymenocallis sp Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 17:49:37 -0700 (PDT) Not sure which one this is ... I believe an Hymenocallis species ... but it has performed well for me ... blooming every Spring (a bit earlier this year) and going completely dry and dormant by early Summer. https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13116123555/ Ken Blackford San Diego, California  From fatsia1234-pbs1@yahoo.com Wed, 12 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1394673491.95294.YahooMailNeo@web164601.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: jonathan Subject: blooming today ... Hymenocallis sp Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 18:18:11 -0700 (PDT) Perhaps H. narcissiflora?  http://calphotos.berkeley.edu/cgi/img_query?enlarge=0000+0000+1010+2074 Jonathan Lubar Alachua FL  z8b >________________________________ > From: Ken >To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" >Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2014 8:49 PM >Subject: [pbs] blooming today ... Hymenocallis sp > > >Not sure which one this is ... I believe an Hymenocallis species ... but it has performed well for me ... blooming every Spring (a bit earlier this year) and going completely dry and dormant by early Summer. > >https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13116123555/ > >Ken Blackford >San Diego, California  >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 12 Mar 2014 21:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1394681674.59708.YahooMailNeo@web185005.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: One more for today ... Albuca concordiana Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 20:34:34 -0700 (PDT) This was actually blooming for me last week ... Albuca concordiana.  I now have two plants ... one purchased a few years ago (blooming) and one just recently purchased.  My older, blooming specimen has not been grown in enough light this year ... the foliage should be more tightly curled as in the 3rd link: close-up of bloom: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13118371583/ bloom and etiolated foliage: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13118380563/ foliage of plant correctly grown in full sun: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13118385523/ Ken Blackford San Diego, California From robertwerra@pacific.net Wed, 12 Mar 2014 22:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <2002CF9E969241F6B688B855CB827BF1@Game1> From: "Robert Werra" Subject: Flopovers Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 22:02:01 -0700 I'm sorry to hear about your moraea flopovers. I have grown many moraeas diligently but not well for 25 years. I've done many things wrong but have not had that problem. Sun or shade hasn't caused that problem for me..Is your planting mix too loose? Don't get discouraged. From jshields46074@gmail.com Thu, 13 Mar 2014 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: James SHIELDS Subject: Mature leaves of Haemanthus bakerae Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 08:19:49 -0400 Ken, My Haemanthus barkerae tend to offset readily. Your leaves have a very interesting pattern on their under/outer side. Foliage on barkerae seems to be quite variable from one place to another. Jim Shields At 07:58 PM 3/12/2014, you wrote: Related to my previous post ... I did not see a picture of mature leaves of Haemanthus bakerae, on the PBS website, with which I could compare my own, so here is a link to those of mine today: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13115359543/ I don't recall two sets of leaves last year ... so maybe the bulb split? Ken Blackford San Diego, CA _______________________________________________ -- James Shields jshields46074@gmail.com P.O. Box 92 Westfield, IN 46074 U.S.A. From jshields46074@gmail.com Thu, 13 Mar 2014 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: James SHIELDS Subject: blooming today ... Hymenocallis sp Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 08:26:48 -0400 Hi Ken, You have the hybrid Ismene 'Festalis' blooming there. Sometimes called Hymenocallis but current thinking is that it and its parents deserve a separate genus. Jim Shields At 08:49 PM 3/12/2014, you wrote: Not sure which one this is ... I believe an Hymenocallis species ... but it has performed well for me ... blooming every Spring (a bit earlier this year) and going completely dry and dormant by early Summer. https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/13116123555/ Ken Blackford San Diego, California _______________________________________________ -- James Shields jshields46074@gmail.com P.O. Box 92 Westfield, IN 46074 U.S.A. From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Thu, 13 Mar 2014 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <832233BB-5D90-4299-A035-C5CFF8E2A097@gmail.com> From: "M. Gastil-Buhl" Subject: Moraea villosa cold hardy enough for Canadian prairies? Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 09:42:52 -0700 Perhaps some of our Canadians can answer this inquiry we received from the PBS contact form. Mike and I suspect Moraea villosa would not survive outside in the cold there but perhaps one of you have advice for her to grow it indoors. From: Jeanette at not2far@msn.com I was wondering if there is a subspecies if the morarea villosa that would survive the Canadian prairies Thanks so much in advance for any information you can forward to me. Jeanette From leo@possi.org Thu, 13 Mar 2014 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <0c1b14671d9f1a72e6d12dbc31aea3ec.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Blooming today Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 09:49:25 -0700 (PDT) Albuca circinalis concordiana spiralis sp. Augrabies Hills sp. yellow and green Freesia, mixed garden center hybrids Lachenalia alba aloides v. quadricolor concordiana (sweet, baby powder and vanilla scented) contaminata - the easiest lach for me Narcissus tazetta, paperwhites Oxalis obtusa color variants: Damask Rose Honey Lemon Creme Peach Pink - Siskiyou Pinwheel Polished Copper Sunshine Tangerine purpurea Lavender More things in bud. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From fatsia1234-pbs1@yahoo.com Thu, 13 Mar 2014 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1394732712.99469.YahooMailNeo@web164604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: jonathan Subject: blooming today ... Hymenocallis sp Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 10:45:12 -0700 (PDT) Jim, how does one distinguish between I.narcissiflora and I. 'Festalis'? > > >Thanks, > > >Jonathan Lubar >Alachua FL  z8b > > From jshields46074@gmail.com Thu, 13 Mar 2014 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: James SHIELDS Subject: blooming today ... Hymenocallis sp Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 16:49:54 -0400 Jonathan, I think the best way is having pictures of each but otherwise, narcissiflora has straighter tepals while Festalis has longer, more curved tepals. Festalis is pretty common, while true narcissiflora is very rare. Other than Festalis, one usually sees only "Advance" in cultivation. Ismene longipetala has a somewhat curved cup. Ismene amancaes and its hybrids are yellow or yellowish. Jim At 01:45 PM 3/13/2014, you wrote: Jim, how does one distinguish between I.narcissiflora and I. 'Festalis'? > > >Thanks, > > >Jonathan Lubar >Alachua FL z8b > > _______________________________________________ -- James Shields jshields46074@gmail.com P.O. Box 92 Westfield, IN 46074 U.S.A. From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Thu, 13 Mar 2014 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl Subject: How to grow Dichelostemma ida-maia in a cold climate Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 14:41:33 -0700 Our friends in snow country must be tired of all that snow because this is the second request in one day of how to grow a warmer climate bulb in a cold climate. This was a question to our contact form. He will watch the list to see the answers so please reply to the list. > Michael Tongate wrote: >> The students at the local school had a bulb sale. My wife bought some Dichelostemma (Firecracker). I have read that this is a west coast native. I live in central New York. How well will it do in my climate? Should I even try? Do I have to do any thing special? It is an interesting plant. I have never seen it before. I would appreciate any information that you might have about it. Thank you for your help. He has already seen the PBS wiki page for this species here: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Dichelostemma#ida-maia From fatsia1234-pbs1@yahoo.com Thu, 13 Mar 2014 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1394748338.77861.YahooMailNeo@web164605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: jonathan Subject: blooming today ... Hymenocallis sp Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 15:05:38 -0700 (PDT) Jim, thanks! Jonathan >________________________________ > From: James SHIELDS >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2014 4:49 PM >Subject: Re: [pbs] blooming today ... Hymenocallis sp > > >Jonathan, > >I think the best way is having pictures of each but otherwise, >narcissiflora has straighter tepals while Festalis has longer, more curved >tepals.  Festalis is pretty common, while true narcissiflora is very rare. >Other than Festalis, one usually sees only "Advance" in cultivation. >Ismene longipetala has a somewhat curved cup.  Ismene amancaes and its >hybrids are yellow or yellowish. > >Jim > >At 01:45 PM 3/13/2014, you wrote: >Jim, how does one distinguish between I.narcissiflora and I. 'Festalis'? >> >> >>Thanks, >> >> >>Jonathan Lubar >>Alachua FL  z8b >> >> >_______________________________________________ > > > > >-- >James Shields            jshields46074@gmail.com >P.O. Box 92 >Westfield, IN 46074 >U.S.A. >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 13 Mar 2014 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Flop-overs Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 00:24:34 +0000 where are you located, John? It may be a lack of intense sun problem. From randysgarden@gmail.com Thu, 13 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: How to grow Dichelostemma ida-maia in a cold climate Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 18:19:50 -0700 I have seen this species growing on "Seven Mile Hill" in Mendocino County, well into the frost and snow zone, though nothing like Central New York, especially this year. I would think it would need a cool greenhouse to have a chance in his location. Randy From all over but now in Seattle, Washington On Thu, Mar 13, 2014 at 2:41 PM, Gastil Gastil-Buhl wrote: > Our friends in snow country must be tired of all that snow because this is > the second request in one day of how to grow a warmer climate bulb in a > cold climate. This was a question to our contact form. He will watch the > list to see the answers so please reply to the list. > > > Michael Tongate wrote: > >> The students at the local school had a bulb sale. My wife bought some > Dichelostemma (Firecracker). I have read that this is a west coast native. > I live in central New York. How well will it do in my climate? Should I > even try? Do I have to do any thing special? It is an interesting plant. I > have never seen it before. I would appreciate any information that you > might have about it. Thank you for your help. > > He has already seen the PBS wiki page for this species here: > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Dichelostemma#ida-maia > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- From arnold140@verizon.net Thu, 13 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <18138540.891206.1394763311082.JavaMail.root@vznit170176> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Bulb Garden Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 21:15:10 -0500 (CDT) All paid members for 2013 should have received the Summer/Fall copy of the Bulb Garden. I have received a couple back due to incorrect addresses and one which had the address page completely ripped off. If you are or were a paid member for 2013 and haven't received your copy drop a a private note at: arnold140@verizon.net. Arnold Treasurer among other things.... From eez55@earthlink.net Thu, 13 Mar 2014 22:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <380-22014351445739156@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: How to grow Dichelostemma ida-maia in a cold climate Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 21:57:39 -0700 I was able to bloom Dichelostemma ida-maia once when I lived in central Pennsylvania. The bulbs were from a commercial source and were planted in the fall. The plants came up in spring and bloomed in June. Central PA is classified as zone 6 (minimum temperature 0 to -10 F), but I believe the temperatures were not that cold that winter, more in the zone 7 (10 to 0 F) range. The plants did not reappear the following year. I'm sure it was because I planted the bulbs in an area where they did not get a chance to dry out over the summer. My suggestion is to keep the bulbs in the refrigerator, plant them as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, and keep your fingers crossed. You may have to lift them after they've died down in early summer and replant them in the fall. Mulch them with 8 (or more) inches of leaves when the ground begins to freeze and remove the mulch in early spring (as tulips and daffodils begin to emerge). Eugene Zielinski Prescott Valley, AZ USA > [Original Message] > From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl > To: > Date: 3/13/2014 2:40:12 PM > Subject: [pbs] How to grow Dichelostemma ida-maia in a cold climate > > > Michael Tongate wrote: > >> The students at the local school had a bulb sale. My wife bought some Dichelostemma (Firecracker). I have read that this is a west coast native. I live in central New York. How well will it do in my climate? Should I even try? Do I have to do any thing special? It is an interesting plant. I have never seen it before. I would appreciate any information that you might have about it. Thank you for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bea.spencer@sympatico.ca Fri, 14 Mar 2014 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: B Spencer Subject: Tropaeolum hookerianum Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 09:50:08 -0400 Thank you Jane! I do not fancy having to lug another humongous pot to the cool greenhouse at the end of the season. (I already have a few pots of agapanthus and figs), so I do not know what I will do. The description in the Beaver Creek catalogue appeared about a couple of years ago and appears to have been taken down later. You are right they might have based it on the description in Chileflora site and found out otherwise later on. I can always try, though! Perfect drainage as I have in my pile of gravel and the fact the tubers tend to live very deep may help. This is a very large-growing plant, with mature specimens producing stems over a meter in length. I have seen it growing well in a washtub with a number of holes drilled in the bottom, set on bricks. In nature it grows in sandy, gravelly places in full sun. A half wine barrel would also be appropriate. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri, 14 Mar 2014 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Tropaeolum hookerianum Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 14:29:51 +0000 In case of Patagonian Tropaeolums, like polyphyllum they have a long winter dormancy under snow and therefore quite dry. in all species tropaelum the tubers are very fragile and it is also normal that seedling tubers 8and adults ones as well) tend to choose the bottom of any pot, tub or bucket. From giantcoreopsis@gmail.com Fri, 14 Mar 2014 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <883C7003-57C3-4ECE-B75B-E0446957C1A3@gmail.com> From: Giant Coreopsis Subject: Calochortus Seedling Senescence Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 12:49:52 -0700 It is only mid-March but my first-year Calochortus seedlings (planted in plastic tomato flats in full sun) have mostly started to go brown at the tips. Is it time to stop watering altogether? I ask because (a) it seems early in the year and (b) my larger Chalochortuses (both second-year seedlings and mature plants) are all still growing. It is counter-intuitive that seedlings and parents in the same conditions might senesce at different times. If I keep watering, can the bulbs rot as early in the year as now? Thanks everyone, Chris From kimcmich@hotmail.com Fri, 14 Mar 2014 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Calochortus Seedling Senescence Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 13:04:24 -0700 Chris, If only the very tips are yellow/brown but most of the leaf is still green, the plants are likely just drier than they would prefer and will appreciate more water. If the leaf is thoroughly yellow and brown, the seedling are too far along toward dormancy and water could be a problem. I would suggest the tomatoe flats in full sun may be too much for them. I have great success with Calochortus seedlings on the east side of my house where the direct sunlight ceases at noon. -| From: giantcoreopsis@gmail.com > Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 12:49:52 -0700 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Calochortus Seedling Senescence > > It is only mid-March but my first-year Calochortus seedlings (planted in plastic tomato flats in full sun) have mostly started to go brown at the tips. Is it time to stop watering altogether? I ask because (a) it seems early in the year and (b) my larger Chalochortuses (both second-year seedlings and mature plants) are all still growing. It is counter-intuitive that seedlings and parents in the same conditions might senesce at different times. If I keep watering, can the bulbs rot as early in the year as now? > > Thanks everyone, Chris > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 14 Mar 2014 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Spring bloom in Kansas City Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 17:05:24 -0500 Dear Friends, I think it was still just about a week ago that we had snow on the ground and temps below freezing, but suddenly things have warmed up and what a change. The last couple days have been in the mid 60s and 70 F. So far I think the following are in bloom - Galanthus - various sp and cv. Crocus tommasinianus C. sieberi ‘Firefly’ C. sieberi ‘Bowles White’ Crocus ancyrensis Adonis amurensis Eranthis hyemalis - lots of these. Scilla mischtschenkoana Narcissus ‘Rijnveld’s Early Sensation’ and there might be one or two others. Probably a few Hellebores have popped open and more things are appearing daily. Spring is here. Best Jim W. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From tom@yfelin.plus.com Fri, 14 Mar 2014 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1394842008.2163.13.camel@tom-G31M-ES2L> From: Tom Brown Subject: tropaeolum Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2014 00:06:48 +0000 Thanks to all those who responded to my introductory message re my interest in the genus tropaeolum for the purpose of a botanical painting project. I have tubers of..T.brachyceras, ciliatum, polyphylum, tuberosum (Ken Aslet) & piliphera . I would be grateful for any advice regards their planting....soil conditions; location; watering; etc.? Would planting in pots be recommended/OK and if so what sizes? Tom Brown Wales, UK From awilson@avonia.com Sat, 15 Mar 2014 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <7032226729224D0DBA6721EC6215DFB5@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Cyphostemma multiple tubers Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2014 10:02:56 -0700 As some of you probably know Cyphostemma is a genus of plants with a large above-ground succulent caudex. Below ground they have tubers. Recently, a friend dug up a speciimen of C. 'Fat Bastard' and found that side-tubers had formed. The growths were roughly spherical, each with a diameter of up to 5 inches (12.5 cm). One of the parents is said to be C. hardyi. When it was dug up the side tubers were even larger. Truly impressive. Does anyone here know whether these side tubers will grow and produce above-ground growth when separated from the original plant? Andrew San Diego From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sat, 15 Mar 2014 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <000f01cf4074$6c359a70$44a0cf50$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Calochortus Seedling Senescence Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2014 10:31:37 -0700 Chris wrote: > It is only mid-March but my first-year Calochortus seedlings (planted in plastic tomato flats in full sun) have mostly started to go brown at the tips. Is it time to stop watering altogether? I agree strongly with what Kipp said. In nature, the tiny bulbs would be growing in the ground, and would have roots reaching down to levels of the soil that would still be moist and cool at this time in a normal year. I've killed plenty of Calochortus over the year, so I can't say this for sure, but I get the impression that they don't rot if you keep watering them while they still show some green. When they're ready to be dormant, I think the whole leaf will tend to go yellow at once. Hope that helps. Mike San Jose, CA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 15 Mar 2014 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: tropaeolum Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2014 10:54:31 -0700 Tom Brown asked >I have tubers of..T.brachyceras, ciliatum, polyphylum, tuberosum (Ken >Aslet) & piliphera . I would be grateful for any advice regards their >planting....soil conditions; location; watering; etc.? Would planting in >pots be recommended/OK and if so what sizes? T. brachyceras (now available commercially) is a small species that can be grown successfully in a 10-inch/25 cm diameter, deep pot, though it does better given more space. I don't know piliferum (I think that must be the right spelling, not piliphera; also polyphyllum, not polyphylum). The others are large-growing plants that would do better in a gritty soil in a deep raised bed, covered against excessive wet. I did not find T. tuberosum 'Ken Aslet' hardy in western Oregon, but no doubt winters are warmer in Wales where Tom lives. Other than piliferum, I can recommend dry summer conditions for all mentioned. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From zigur@hotmail.com Sat, 15 Mar 2014 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: Cyphostemma multiple tubers Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2014 11:33:01 -0700 They will not. T > From: awilson@avonia.com > Subject: [pbs] Cyphostemma multiple tubers > Does anyone here know whether these side tubers will grow and produce > above-ground growth when separated from the original plant? From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 16 Mar 2014 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: How to grow Dichelostemma ida-maia in a cold climate Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2014 22:16:39 +0000 I grew Dichelostemma species for some years with winter temperatures fluctuating to a minimum of around minus ten C. my method was to plant the corms deep in pots of sandy compost topped with gravel. The pots were plunged in sand with overhead rain protection. They would have frozen solid on occasion but survived until a winter with lows of ~ minus 15 C. the trick was to keep them dry until early spring so that they did not freeze much while in growth. extra feeding was required to compensate for the shortened growing season. My sister also grew "Fire Cracker" in a very well drained bed for three years in a rather colder winter micro climate with dry summers. It died out with her after a wet Summer followed by the same cold winter. Peter (UK) On 14 March 2014 04:57, Eugene Zielinski wrote: > I was able to bloom Dichelostemma ida-maia once when I lived in central > Pennsylvania. The bulbs were from a commercial source and were planted in > the fall. The plants came up in spring and bloomed in June. Central PA is > classified as zone 6 (minimum temperature 0 to -10 F), but I believe the > temperatures were not that cold that winter, more in the zone 7 (10 to 0 F) > range. > The plants did not reappear the following year. I'm sure it was because I > planted the bulbs in an area where they did not get a chance to dry out > over the summer. > From rredbbeard@yahoo.com Mon, 17 Mar 2014 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1395078334.36337.BPMail_high_carrier@web120405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rick Buell Subject: gethyllis spiralis potting medium? (Rick Buell) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2014 10:45:34 -0700 (PDT) I'm going to be potting up bulbs of g.spiralis that I received recently and I have 2 questions: 1) is the potting mix you're about the same as for albucas, and 2) should these be in a deeper pot of maybe 8" depth, with the top of the bulb about 1.5" under the surface? I have been using a combination of scoria and cactus medium for many albucas, but have heard that they can be planted in plain sand with little else. From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Mon, 17 Mar 2014 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <000301cf422b$e35e0390$aa1a0ab0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2014 16:57:27 -0500 Hello- Last February; I enjoyed a nice display of Hyacinth flowers inside my greenhouse that I purchased the Fall before. This year; I was hoping to replicate the same scenario. In the Fall; I moved the potted plants into my unheated garage. In February; I brought them in the greenhouse. I was disappointed by the flowers. Some research (now) from the internet states that forced bulbs will not have the same vigor as they did initially. Why does forcing them affect them so drastically? Is there a way to 'recharge' the bulbs by planting in the ground for a year or so? If they can be recharged outside, then I could buy enough bulbs to rotate one set of each color to be grown in the pot. If I just grew them outside; only the rabbits would get to enjoy before they ate them. :{ Any hope to maintain the wonderful color & scent in the greenhouse without buying new bulbs every year? Thanks in advance. Best regards, Lisa From arnold140@verizon.net Mon, 17 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <21634990.1258905.1395107311870.JavaMail.root@vznit170126> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: gethyllis spiralis potting medium? (Rick Buell) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2014 20:48:31 -0500 (CDT) Rick: I have my potful of Gethyllis linearis in a sandy mix. The roots can reach down into some commercial potting mix but the bulb is in a blanket of sand. Has flowered reliably for two years . Neck of the bulbs is at soil level. Arnold New Jersey On 03/17/14, Rick Buell wrote: I'm going to be potting up bulbs of g.spiralis that I received recently and I have 2 questions: 1) is the potting mix you're about the same as for albucas, and 2) should these be in a deeper pot of maybe 8" depth, with the top of the bulb about 1.5" under the surface? I have been using a combination of scoria and cactus medium for many albucas, but have heard that they can be planted in plain sand with little else. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 17 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2014 19:12:41 -0700 Lisa wrote >Some research (now) from the internet states that forced bulbs will not have >the same vigor as they did initially. >Why does forcing them affect them so drastically? Is there a way to >'recharge' the bulbs by planting in the ground for a year or so? >If I just grew them outside; only the rabbits would get to enjoy before they >ate them. :{ >Any hope to maintain the wonderful color & scent in the greenhouse without >buying new bulbs every year? First, rabbits will not eat the hyacinths. They are varmint-proof plants, like daffodils Second, it is not forcing itself that affects the hyacinths as Lisa describes. They are just reverting to their normal appearance after having been brought to what is commercially considered their peak of perfection by special techniques used in the Dutch bulb trade. Planted out in the garden (provided Lisa lives somewhere with suitable seasonal temperatures), they will grow for many years and increase a little, but the inflorescence will always be a little looser than the "peak." You can grow the same hyacinths year after year in the greenhouse, provided you give them a suitable cold period, if they have plenty of fertile, well-drained soil in a large, deep pot and full sun. Hyacinths prepared for forcing have been put through warm and cold periods to stimulate flowering. This is easy to do at home, so don't spend money on prepared hyacinths unless you need them to flower for Christmas. Also, you don't need to buy the premium size to grow in pots -- the smaller size is fine. At my former garden there are colonies of hyacinths that have been in the ground for more than 20 years -- and there are many rabbits and deer there. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From bea.spencer@sympatico.ca Mon, 17 Mar 2014 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: B Spencer Subject: Hyacinths orientalis cultivars Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2014 23:01:53 -0400 Jane wrote First, rabbits will not eat the hyacinths. They are varmint-proof plants, like daffodils I agree with Jane. I force hyacinths (in many colours but mainly all shades of blue) every year and then plant the bulbs in the garden the following fall. The rabbits, of which there is an abundance in my country garden, do not bother them at all and there are bulbs everywhere, some twenty years old and older. This is not the case with tulips. I grow very few of these except for the botanical varieties. The flowers on the hyacinths planted in the garden are nothing like the forcing type after a few years in the garden, but there are many more spikes and I actually prefer them this way. I grew the same bulbs for a couple of years in a row, but like Jane said, they were in rather large pots which were deeper than the regular bulb pans. I grew those to put on my front steps in early spring, which for my area is something that comes at the end of March, beginning of April. This year, who knows, maybe in May? After two years I planted them in the garden. I do not fuss over my bulbs, but if you fertilize them regularly etc. when still actively growing and before they go dormant I think growing the same hyacinth bulbs in pots over many years should be doable. After all other bulbs live in pots. Bea zone 5 --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From petersirises@gmail.com Tue, 18 Mar 2014 01:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2014 07:20:07 +0000 I disagree in that forcing bulbs does affect the following years growth. Hyacinths are usually tough enough to overcome this if the bulbs are fed and allowed a long growing season. Forcing tends to cause the bulbs to divide into smaller bulbs after flowering. I believe that it also boosts the flowering at the expense of resources in the bulb which would otherwise go into boosting leaf growth. For forced bulbs I expect a year of good flowering followed by a year of recuperation, the third year should see the plant growing naturally. Peter (UK) On 18 March 2014 02:12, Jane McGary wrote: > Lisa wrote > >Why does forcing them affect them so drastically? Is there a way to > >'recharge' the bulbs by planting in the ground for a year or so? > >Any hope to maintain the wonderful color & scent in the greenhouse without > >buying new bulbs every year? > > , it is not forcing itself that affects the hyacinths as Lisa > describes. They are just reverting to their normal appearance after > having been brought to what is commercially considered their peak of > perfection by special techniques used in the Dutch bulb trade. > > From jeraldlehmann@gmail.com Tue, 18 Mar 2014 09:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jerald Lehmann Subject: Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2014 11:11:36 -0500 I would like to add my two cents: deer will and do eat hyacinths once they begin to open. I think it's the fragrance that attracts them. They then eat the flowers and some of the foliage. I've had deer sample daffodils but only a few flowers. Sometimes I find the spit-out flowers several feet from the daffodils...but not always. Rabbits and squirrels could care less about hyacinths and daffodils. --Jerry Lehmann, Olathe, KS, USA From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Tue, 18 Mar 2014 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <003701cf42ca$f7806e90$e6814bb0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2014 11:56:11 -0500 Thanks to all for the responses; much appreciated. I was going to give Hyacinth & Daffodils a try outside; but the deer issue makes it a bad choice. We have a water garden with water lilies that deer stand in the middle of to eat the lily pads. It's right outside the house too, but I think they sneak over under the cloak of darkness. We're in zone 5b; but a rural area so we don't have a fence. On the potted Hyacinths, I have them in 7" tall x 5" wide pots with just a few bulbs per pot. So; based on suggestions - I will move to a sunnier location now. Both times; keeping them in the front of the garage so that they receive the proper cold without freezing seems to have worked. So; I just need to work on how the bulbs maintain their energy for next's years blooms. My last question. When the foliage has died back and the soil is dry; should I unpotted, inspect bulbs then repot with some bulb food before they are put in the garage? The weather starts to change around mid September. I also might let the bulbs dry for a week or so before repotting. I didn't feed the bulbs this year while blooming. Now that they are done blooming; I wouldn't think it would be the correct time to feed them. Would it? Best regards, Lisa -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jerald Lehmann Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2014 11:12 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars I would like to add my two cents: deer will and do eat hyacinths once they begin to open. I think it's the fragrance that attracts them. They then eat the flowers and some of the foliage. I've had deer sample daffodils but only a few flowers. Sometimes I find the spit-out flowers several feet from the daffodils...but not always. Rabbits and squirrels could care less about hyacinths and daffodils. --Jerry Lehmann, Olathe, KS, USA From nickplummer@gmail.com Tue, 18 Mar 2014 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nicholas plummer Subject: Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2014 14:10:14 -0400 For those who deal with hungry deer, I would strongly recommend a deer fence. If you are a serious gardener, it is well worth the cost. The fence I installed about 6 years ago is heavy duty plastic mesh that can be nailed to trees and almost vanishes behind the summer foliage. Where trees are not available, the posts fit into sleeves that you drive into the ground with a sledge hammer. No hole digging required, and it didn't take us very long to fence in roughly 3/4 of an acre. Since installing the fence, the only deer we have seen near the house was a very tiny fawn that pushed through a hole I hadn't noticed The plastic mesh doesn't stop bunnies, so now I am retrofitting wire rabbit fence along the bottom of the deer fence. I'm attaching it to the deer fence and posts with zip-ties, so it is also relatively easy to do myself. Nick Plummer Durham, NC, USA. Zone 7 On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 12:56 PM, Shoal Creek Succulents wrote: > Thanks to all for the responses; much appreciated. > > I was going to give Hyacinth & Daffodils a try outside; but the deer issue > makes it a bad choice. From macjohn@mac.com Tue, 18 Mar 2014 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1A4DC9F4-4BB3-453A-81F3-25F6CEA674F0@mac.com> From: John Willis Subject: Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2014 16:35:14 -0400 Let me add my own two cents worth. I had no sooner completed fencing in an acre with that 7 foot deer-proof plastic mesh when I found that the woodchucks have no problem slicing through the mesh. I had to immediately add a 3 foot steel mesh at the bottom to keep the woodchucks from making holes that the deer could squeeze through. Just plan to do that or go with 8 foot black wire mesh (bent over at the bottom and anchored to the ground) to begin with. The deer fence has nevertheless been wonderful. Such a difference. The rabbits are still a problem. Need a good way to trap them... On Mar 18, 2014, at 2:10 PM, Nicholas plummer wrote: > For those who deal with hungry deer, I would strongly recommend a deer > fence. If you are a serious gardener, it is well worth the cost. The > fence I installed about 6 years ago is heavy duty plastic mesh that can be > nailed to trees and almost vanishes behind the summer foliage. Where trees > are not available, the posts fit into sleeves that you drive into the > ground with a sledge hammer. No hole digging required, and it didn't take > us very long to fence in roughly 3/4 of an acre. Since installing the > fence, the only deer we have seen near the house was a very tiny fawn that > pushed through a hole I hadn't noticed > > The plastic mesh doesn't stop bunnies, so now I am retrofitting wire rabbit > fence along the bottom of the deer fence. I'm attaching it to the deer > fence and posts with zip-ties, so it is also relatively easy to do myself. > > Nick Plummer > Durham, NC, USA. Zone 7 > > > On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 12:56 PM, Shoal Creek Succulents wrote: > >> Thanks to all for the responses; much appreciated. >> >> I was going to give Hyacinth & Daffodils a try outside; but the deer issue >> makes it a bad choice. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Gardens get wilder every day … MacGardens From petersirises@gmail.com Tue, 18 Mar 2014 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2014 06:10:23 +0000 Repot while dormant -though it may not be necessary every year. Feed them now while the leaves and roots are active. These hyacinths are capable of a long growing season. Keep them growing to build up the bulbs. They should not be stored in very dry arid conditions. Peter (UK) On 18 March 2014 16:56, Shoal Creek Succulents wrote: > > My last question. When the foliage has died back and the soil is dry; > should I unpotted, inspect bulbs then repot with some bulb food before they > are put in the garage? The weather starts to change around mid September. > I also might let the bulbs dry for a week or so before repotting. I didn't > feed the bulbs this year while blooming. Now that they are done blooming; > I wouldn't think it would be the correct time to feed them. Would it? > > Best regards, Lisa > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Jerald Lehmann > Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2014 11:12 AM > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars > > I would like to add my two cents: deer will and do eat hyacinths once they > begin to open. I think it's the fragrance that attracts them. They then > eat the flowers and some of the foliage. > > I've had deer sample daffodils but only a few flowers. Sometimes I find > the > spit-out flowers several feet from the daffodils...but not always. > > Rabbits and squirrels could care less about hyacinths and daffodils. > > --Jerry Lehmann, Olathe, KS, USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Wed, 19 Mar 2014 04:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <006e01cf435d$0431b620$0c952260$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2014 05:21:39 -0500 Perfect- thank you Peter! -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2014 1:10 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars Repot while dormant -though it may not be necessary every year. Feed them now while the leaves and roots are active. These hyacinths are capable of a long growing season. Keep them growing to build up the bulbs. They should not be stored in very dry arid conditions. Peter (UK) On 18 March 2014 16:56, Shoal Creek Succulents wrote: > > My last question. When the foliage has died back and the soil is dry; > should I unpotted, inspect bulbs then repot with some bulb food before > they are put in the garage? The weather starts to change around mid September. > I also might let the bulbs dry for a week or so before repotting. I didn't > feed the bulbs this year while blooming. Now that they are done blooming; > I wouldn't think it would be the correct time to feed them. Would it? > > Best regards, Lisa > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org > [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Jerald Lehmann > Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2014 11:12 AM > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hyacinthus orientalis cultivars > > I would like to add my two cents: deer will and do eat hyacinths once > they begin to open. I think it's the fragrance that attracts them. > They then eat the flowers and some of the foliage. > > I've had deer sample daffodils but only a few flowers. Sometimes I > find the spit-out flowers several feet from the daffodils...but not > always. > > Rabbits and squirrels could care less about hyacinths and daffodils. > > --Jerry Lehmann, Olathe, KS, USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From oldtulips@gmail.com Wed, 19 Mar 2014 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Rimmer Subject: Lachenalia care post flowering Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2014 11:03:35 -0400 In response to Peter’s comments on keeping the hyacinths growing as long as possible to build up the bulbs, i was wondering what is recommended for Lachenalia now that many have finished flowering. These are watered abut once every 10 days more or less when the pots are on the light side. but in general these are quite dry standing on 1”of sand. I keep the plant tops about 6- 8” below T-5 lights set for 16 hrs, day temps up to 75F (24C) , nights down to 55F (12C) with a 6” rotating fan to cool off and dry out. L. aloides var. quadricolor -bloomed in Feb and the flower is now past but the foliage still stands upright and looks green and firm. L. aloides var. unicolor (pallida)-purple blomed in late Feb and the tip is still showing the last flower color but the leaves are turing yellow and limp- several of the non blooming bulbs had there leaves turn red- -black and rotted away in the 4.5” pot in the winter. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13267587884/lightbox/ L. mutabilis, yellow / electric blue top - the flower has faded but the foliage still stands upright and looks green. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13267232835/lightbox/ L. aloides var. vanzyliae is in bloom now http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13267360393/lightbox/ L. liliflora blooming now http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13266018045/in/set-72157641118446243/lightbox/ Thank you for your help Rimmer SE Michigan finally above freezing with rain today From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 19 Mar 2014 09:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1395242606.8604.YahooMailNeo@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Lachenalia care post flowering Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2014 08:23:26 -0700 (PDT) Any thoughts on moving such to locations with less solar radiation ... to attempt to keep leaves of these winter growers going a bit longer (with the thought they'll put more energy into the bulbs.)  I've done this with some of the winter-growing amaryllids and think it does help.  For example, this year, my Brunsvigia and hybrid Amaryllid seedlings located in full sun have already turned yellow early, I think due to our unusually warm winter with much above average bright, sunny days (even though I've maintained a watering regimen.) Those I located to bright shade, earlier in late January and early February, are still green and I assume continue to photosynthesize.  With such treatment along with care not to overwater ... I've kept foliage green for an additional 1-3 months.  Ken Blackford San Diego ________________________________ From: Rimmer To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2014 8:03 AM Subject: [pbs] Lachenalia care post flowering In response to Peter’s comments on keeping the hyacinths growing as long as possible to build up the bulbs, i was wondering what is recommended for Lachenalia now that many have finished flowering.  These are watered abut once every 10 days more or less when the pots are on the light side. but in general these are quite dry standing on 1”of sand. I keep the plant tops about 6- 8” below T-5 lights set for 16 hrs, day temps up to 75F (24C) , nights down to 55F (12C) with a 6” rotating fan to cool off and dry out. L. aloides var. quadricolor -bloomed in Feb and the flower is now past but the foliage still stands upright and looks green and firm. L. aloides var. unicolor  (pallida)-purple blomed in late Feb and the tip is still showing the last flower color but the leaves are turing yellow and limp- several of the non blooming bulbs had there leaves turn red- -black and rotted away in the 4.5” pot in the winter.  http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13267587884/lightbox/ L. mutabilis, yellow / electric blue top - the flower has faded but the foliage still stands upright and looks green. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13267232835/lightbox/ L. aloides var. vanzyliae is in bloom now http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13267360393/lightbox/ L. liliflora blooming now http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13266018045/in/set-72157641118446243/lightbox/ Thank you for your help Rimmer SE Michigan finally above freezing with rain today _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bonaventure@optonline.net Wed, 19 Mar 2014 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <69f6cc8b.3c7dd.144dc309280.Webtop.47@optonline.net> From: BO MAGRYS Subject: spring bloom in NJ Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2014 17:12:54 -0400 (EDT) Despite the swings from teens at night to high 40 some days, Eranthis, Galanthus, and Crocus (yellow species) have started. Hellebores lag behind and are looking a bit burned. Hymenocallis in pot in basement starting to grow. Habenaria medusae tuber still plump, whew, though Arisaema nepenthoides tuber rotted away. Bonaventure Magrys From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 19 Mar 2014 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1395265870.15667.YahooMailNeo@web121305.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Paeonia identity question Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2014 14:51:10 -0700 (PDT) A friend sent me this peony image today: it's labeled Paeonia mairei. I don't grow that species, but other images of it on the web are not at all like this.  Any comments?  Take a look here (you will have to scroll down the page): http://www.valeaston.com/page/68/ Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where there is no mistaking that it's still winter.  From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 22 Mar 2014 04:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Paeonia identity question Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2014 16:47:47 -0700 Jim McKenney wrote: >A friend sent me this peony image today: it's labeled Paeonia >mairei. I don't grow that species, but other images of it on the web >are not at all like this. Paeonia mairei Leveille (1915) is a Chinese plant closely related to P. obovata. Its synonyms are P. bifurcata and P. oxypetala. It is said to have more pointed leaves than P. obovata. My reference for this is Halda, The Genus Paeonia, which, however, is "splittist" in tendency. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Wed, 19 Mar 2014 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1395274550.84156.YahooMailNeo@web122302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Paeonia identity question Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2014 17:15:50 -0700 (PDT) That image looks correct. Paeonia mairei comes out of the ground with the flower buds first and opening shortly thereafter in stark contrast to all the other species I know of. Mine here in TN are coming through now and have the pink petals already visible.  Aaron  East Tennessee   On Wednesday, March 19, 2014 6:18 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: A friend sent me this peony image today: it's labeled Paeonia mairei. I don't grow that species, but other images of it on the web are not at all like this.  Any comments?  Take a look here (you will have to scroll down the page): http://www.valeaston.com/page/68/ From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Thu, 20 Mar 2014 01:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1305595285.3892.1395301338456.JavaMail.www@wwinf1p20> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Paeonia identity question Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2014 08:42:18 +0100 (CET) It looks much more like Paeonia cambessedesii... Mark "   A friend sent me this peony image today: it's labeled Paeonia mairei. I don't grow that species, but other images of it on the web are not at all like this.  > > Any comments? " _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From oldtulips@gmail.com Thu, 20 Mar 2014 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <9B499F0E-02C4-4B42-9438-6220B14867AD@gmail.com> From: Rimmer Subject: Lachenalia care post flowering Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2014 09:00:02 -0400 Thanks Ken i moved the lachs to the basement floor where it is a little cooler (50F night, 63F day) and farther from the hot T-5 lights, so they should not get so hot and last longer. i was hoping that i could grow Lachs without a greenhouse and enjoy them in the winter vs. keeping them in the cold frame which was buried under 2 feet snow this past winter. This winter was colder than recent winter an they may not have survived, however, Polyexena ensifoilia in the cold frame under 0.5-2 feet of snow did survive with outside temps of below minus 20F (-30C) many times and 2 -3 months of consistent temps below 20F (-7C). Rimmer On Mar 19, 2014, at 11:23 AM, Ken wrote: > Any thoughts on moving such to locations with less solar radiation ... to attempt to keep leaves of these winter growers going a bit longer (with the thought they'll put more energy into the bulbs.) I've done this with some of the winter-growing amaryllids and think it does help. For example, this year, my Brunsvigia and hybrid Amaryllid seedlings located in full sun have already turned yellow early, I think due to our unusually warm winter with much above average bright, sunny days (even though I've maintained a watering regimen.) Those I located to bright shade, earlier in late January and early February, are still green and I assume continue to photosynthesize. With such treatment along with care not to overwater ... I've kept foliage green for an additional 1-3 months. > Ken Blackford > San Diego > > > ________________________________ > From: Rimmer > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2014 8:03 AM > Subject: [pbs] Lachenalia care post flowering > > > > In response to Peter’s comments on keeping the hyacinths growing as long as possible to build up the bulbs, i was wondering what is recommended for Lachenalia now that many have finished flowering. These are watered abut once every 10 days more or less when the pots are on the light side. but in general these are quite dry standing on 1”of sand. > > I keep the plant tops about 6- 8” below T-5 lights set for 16 hrs, day temps up to 75F (24C) , nights down to 55F (12C) with a 6” rotating fan to cool off and dry out. > > L. aloides var. quadricolor -bloomed in Feb and the flower is now past but the foliage still stands upright and looks green and firm. > > L. aloides var. unicolor (pallida)-purple blomed in late Feb and the tip is still showing the last flower color but the leaves are turing yellow and limp- several of the non blooming bulbs had there leaves turn red- -black and rotted away in the 4.5” pot in the winter. > http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13267587884/lightbox/ > > L. mutabilis, yellow / electric blue top - the flower has faded but the foliage still stands upright and looks green. > http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13267232835/lightbox/ > > L. aloides var. vanzyliae is in bloom now > http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13267360393/lightbox/ > > L. liliflora blooming now > http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/13266018045/in/set-72157641118446243/lightbox/ > > Thank you for your help > > Rimmer > SE Michigan > finally above freezing with rain today > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Thu, 20 Mar 2014 08:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <532AFE95.4040506@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Contact information Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2014 07:43:33 -0700 Does anyone have an e-mail address for Kevin Preuss? Diana From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Thu, 20 Mar 2014 08:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <532B053E.5080707@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Hippeastrum macbridei Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2014 08:11:58 -0700 I have just posted a picture of H. macbridei on the blog (which I hardly ever have time to post on any more!). I also added a picture of an unidentified species, so if anyone has any idea of what it is I would love to hear. The blog is: www.thebulbmaven.typepad.com Diana Telos Rare Bulbs www.telosrarebulbs.com From xerantheum@gmail.com Thu, 20 Mar 2014 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Call for application - 2014 MSI Grant for Bulb Research Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2014 11:21:18 -0500 Dear PBS members, This is a call for application for the 2014 Mary Sue Ittner Grant for Bulb Research. This grant is set up to support anyone interested in learning more about bulbs. It may be used to support any type of research, including field-work. It is available to paid PBS members world-wide, and you may apply for membership when you submit your application. The award amount is $500 USD. The deadline for this year is April 15, 2013. The complete announcement, conditions, and additional information can be downloaded here: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/00_others/MSI_Grant_Announcement_2014.pdf If you are a member of other geophytic societies/group, please pass on this announcement to help us spread the words. Thanks and we hope to receive a lot of applications. Sincerely, Nhu Nguyen President, PBS From xerantheum@gmail.com Thu, 20 Mar 2014 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Fw: Haemanthus barkerae seed germination Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2014 15:02:30 -0500 Hi Ken, It doesn't hurt to keep them until you see them shrivel...I've only seen this in Crinum where they refuse to germinate and then just die. Nhu On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 3:08 PM, Ken wrote: > I harvested 8 seeds last December, off my Haemanthus barkerae bulb which > produced two separate blooms 3 months earlier, in September. Two of the > seeds germinated and produced leaves almost immediately ... but the other > seeds have yet to do so. The remaining seeds themselves seem to appear > healthy, plump and solid and unaffected by fungi or molds. I've kept them > moist, in bright light but not direct sunlight, outdoors this past very > mild winter here in San Diego. Should I continue to wait and give them a > chance at germination? Should seeds of this species be completely covered, > for better germination? > From msittner@mcn.org Fri, 21 Mar 2014 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <20140321171220.2356323DFD@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Wiki Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2014 09:14:42 -0700 The wiki is performing erratically this morning as it sometimes does, not loading at times. Ironically it is highlighted on the Ibiblio web site however. I don't ever remember that happening before, but it may be just because I don't look at their main page very often. Maybe this is generating more hits? Regardless, all of the people who have contributed to the wiki and built it into what it has become should be proud of this mention. Ibiblio changes their main page frequently. Otherwise we could add this as a reference on Wikipedia. http://www.ibiblio.org/ From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Fri, 21 Mar 2014 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl Subject: source of Iris cycloglossa in N. America? Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2014 17:47:21 -0700 Ian Efford asks if anyone knows of a source of Iris cycloglossa seed or bulbs. We have seen the listing from rareplants.co.uk found on the PBS Sources page but are hoping for a source that does not require import. If you know of a source please reply to efford@shaw.ca as well as the list. Additionally, Ian writes: "As to the plant, it is very rare in nature [from around Herat in Afghanistan] and not grown by many people. I did get seed once but the seedling died. The source has gone out of business and I only know of two growers in N.Am. I have approached one and not had a reply and the other said that I should ask him again in September." From rbartontx@yahoo.com Fri, 21 Mar 2014 21:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1395457305.36008.YahooMailNeo@web124506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rodney Barton Subject: source of Iris cycloglossa in N. America? Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2014 20:01:45 -0700 (PDT) Hi Ian!  How is life treating you? McClure and Zimmerman offers I. cycloglossa.  Rodney ________________________________ From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Friday, March 21, 2014 7:47 PM Subject: [pbs] source of Iris cycloglossa in N. America? Ian Efford asks if anyone knows of a source of Iris cycloglossa seed or bulbs. We have seen the listing from rareplants.co.uk found on the PBS Sources page but are hoping for a source that does not require import. If you know of a source please reply to efford@shaw.ca as well as the list. Additionally, Ian writes: "As to the plant, it is very rare in nature [from around Herat in Afghanistan] and not grown by many people.  I did get seed once but the seedling died.  The source has gone out of business and I only know of two growers in N.Am.  I have approached one and not had a reply and the other said that I should ask him again in September." From teck11@embarqmail.com Sat, 22 Mar 2014 06:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <001801cf45cd$29e9e3c0$7dbdab40$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Paeonia identity question Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 08:49:27 -0400 Paeonia mairei Leveille (1915) is a Chinese plant closely related to P. obovata. Its synonyms are P. bifurcata and P. oxypetala. It is said to have more pointed leaves than P. obovata. My reference for this is Halda, The Genus Paeonia, which, however, is "splittist" in tendency. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA Jane, Your comment on "splittist tendency" reminded me of my Wikipedia search for 'Hippeastrum'. I was trying to put together a presentation on the genus and was disconcerted to see that Wikipedia would not commit to a phylum or class but was willing to insert a subfamily, tribe, and subtribe between family and genus. Admittedly it's been 45 years since I've had a botany or taxonomy course and there has been a lot of parallel developments and philosophical changes affecting taxonomy, but I'd love to know 'the rest of the story' on what seems to be a basic dis-functionality regarding flowering plant taxonomy. Thanks, Tim From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 22 Mar 2014 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: source of Iris cycloglossa in N. America? Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 16:01:32 +0000 I rarely get seed but have sent material to the BX. The last time I looked, rare plants uk describe the bulbs of Iris cycloglossa as not having tuberous roots -unlike other Juno Iris. This is untrue, they break off rather easily though just like the closely related I fosteriana and I aitchesonii. It bulks up well and I shall try to make material of I cycloglossa available again in September. Peter (UK) From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sat, 22 Mar 2014 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <032d01cf45f2$bed5d280$3c817780$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Wiki Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 10:17:53 -0700 Mary Sue wrote: >> it is highlighted on the Ibiblio web site Nice spotting! Thanks for pointing that out. >>Ibiblio changes their main page frequently. Otherwise we could add this as a reference on Wikipedia. Actually, we can link to anything that's accessible on the web. If it looks like it'll disappear in time, we can run the link through a service that preserves an image of the original item referenced. So I added that iBiblio post this morning. Most people don't understand how important links are to a Wikipedia entry. Contrary to popular opinion, you're not allowed to log in and add original information. If you do, your article will be pulled down. Instead, everything needs to be footnoted via links to print publications or things that have been posted on the web. The more footnotes you have, the less likely that the powers in Wikipedia will mess with you. We had a bit of a struggle over the PBS entry until we found some links that mentioned the society. So, anytime you spot a blog post or website that gives information or says nice things about the society, please let us know so we can add it to the Wikippedia article (or, if you know how to edit Wikipedia, you are welcome to add the info directly to the article). Thanks! Mike San Jose, CA ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2014 17:47:21 -0700 From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] source of Iris cycloglossa in N. America? Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Ian Efford asks if anyone knows of a source of Iris cycloglossa seed or bulbs. We have seen the listing from rareplants.co.uk found on the PBS Sources page but are hoping for a source that does not require import. If you know of a source please reply to efford@shaw.ca as well as the list. Additionally, Ian writes: "As to the plant, it is very rare in nature [from around Herat in Afghanistan] and not grown by many people. I did get seed once but the seedling died. The source has gone out of business and I only know of two growers in N.Am. I have approached one and not had a reply and the other said that I should ask him again in September." ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2014 20:01:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Rodney Barton To: Pacific Bulb Society , "efford@shaw.ca" Subject: Re: [pbs] source of Iris cycloglossa in N. America? Message-ID: <1395457305.36008.YahooMailNeo@web124506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Hi Ian!? How is life treating you? McClure and Zimmerman offers I. cycloglossa.? Rodney ________________________________ From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Friday, March 21, 2014 7:47 PM Subject: [pbs] source of Iris cycloglossa in N. America? Ian Efford asks if anyone knows of a source of Iris cycloglossa seed or bulbs. We have seen the listing from rareplants.co.uk found on the PBS Sources page but are hoping for a source that does not require import. If you know of a source please reply to efford@shaw.ca as well as the list. Additionally, Ian writes: "As to the plant, it is very rare in nature [from around Herat in Afghanistan] and not grown by many people.? I did get seed once but the seedling died.? The source has gone out of business and I only know of two growers in N.Am.? I have approached one and not had a reply and the other said that I should ask him again in September." ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2014 16:47:47 -0700 From: Jane McGary To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Paeonia identity question Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Jim McKenney wrote: >A friend sent me this peony image today: it's labeled Paeonia >mairei. I don't grow that species, but other images of it on the web >are not at all like this. Paeonia mairei Leveille (1915) is a Chinese plant closely related to P. obovata. Its synonyms are P. bifurcata and P. oxypetala. It is said to have more pointed leaves than P. obovata. My reference for this is Halda, The Genus Paeonia, which, however, is "splittist" in tendency. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 08:49:27 -0400 From: "Tim Eck" To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" Subject: Re: [pbs] Paeonia identity question Message-ID: <001801cf45cd$29e9e3c0$7dbdab40$@embarqmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Paeonia mairei Leveille (1915) is a Chinese plant closely related to P. obovata. Its synonyms are P. bifurcata and P. oxypetala. It is said to have more pointed leaves than P. obovata. My reference for this is Halda, The Genus Paeonia, which, however, is "splittist" in tendency. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA Jane, Your comment on "splittist tendency" reminded me of my Wikipedia search for 'Hippeastrum'. I was trying to put together a presentation on the genus and was disconcerted to see that Wikipedia would not commit to a phylum or class but was willing to insert a subfamily, tribe, and subtribe between family and genus. Admittedly it's been 45 years since I've had a botany or taxonomy course and there has been a lot of parallel developments and philosophical changes affecting taxonomy, but I'd love to know 'the rest of the story' on what seems to be a basic dis-functionality regarding flowering plant taxonomy. Thanks, Tim ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php End of pbs Digest, Vol 134, Issue 25 ************************************ From carlobal@netzero.com Sat, 22 Mar 2014 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <8FEC7171-4F88-4691-92DD-A01B8C564E63@netzero.com> From: "Carlo A. Balistrieri" Subject: spring bloom in NJ Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 16:02:07 -0400 The big test for me will be whether my Helicodiceros returns for its 3rd consecutive year in Flemington…... 2 6 2 . 4 9 0 . 6 1 6 3 New York NJ Philadelphia On Mar 19, 2014, at 5:12 PM, BO MAGRYS wrote: > Despite the swings from teens at night to high 40 some days, Eranthis, Galanthus, and Crocus (yellow species) have started. Hellebores lag behind and are looking a bit burned. Hymenocallis in pot in basement starting to grow. Habenaria medusae tuber still plump, whew, though Arisaema nepenthoides tuber rotted away. > > > Bonaventure Magrys > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Sat, 22 Mar 2014 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <532DF117.4040304@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: Wikipedia :references to PBS Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 20:22:47 +0000 Hello Mike, I have sent you an email detailing a long list of references to the PBS online which I hope will be of use to you for building your wikipedia listing. Kind regards, Maggi Young From nickplummer@gmail.com Sat, 22 Mar 2014 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <363D28D3-4257-4751-81AA-28396CF68E21@gmail.com> From: Nicholas Plummer Subject: Cyrtanthus in Kenya? Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 17:22:15 -0400 At an orchid society meeting today, I picked up two unlabeled bulbs, probably an amaryllid, that are supposedly from seed collected in the vicinity of Nairobi. A somewhat blurry photo showed light pink flowers, one per inflorescence, that generally resemble Cyrtanthus sanguineus. The bulbs and foliage also look like my C. sanguineus (almost spherical with a definite neck), and the photo showed foliage present at blooming. The Wiki says that C. sanguineus can be pink, and various web sites say it grows in Kenya. I have never seen a pink C. sanguineus, so is this a likely ID? Are there other Cyrtanthus species in Kenya? Unfortunately I don't know if the mother plant was wild or in a garden, but I have a lead on the collector and will try to find out. Nick Plummer Durham, NC, USA From leo@possi.org Sat, 22 Mar 2014 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <400c7d1c6779b371c9af0668db846b9c.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Lachslight Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 15:22:20 -0700 (PDT) Rimmer wrote > i moved the lachs to the basement floor where > it is a little cooler (50F night, 63F day) > and farther from the hot T-5 lights.... When I lived in a cold-winter climate, I put many plants in the bedroom farthest from the furnace, closed the heating vents to that room, and put standard fluorescent lights (less heat radiating at the plants) overhead. I set the timer so the lights were on at night, both so I could see the plants when I was not at work, and so the lights would keep the room from freezing at night. One year I did lose a few Aloe to freezing. They were closest to the window. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Sat, 22 Mar 2014 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <544778e5e5e778611cd2152041db08dd.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Haemanthus barkerae seed germination Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 15:30:18 -0700 (PDT) Nhu wrote > It doesn't hurt to keep them until you see them shrivel...I've only seen > this in Crinum where they refuse to germinate and then just die. in response to Ken, who wrote >> I harvested 8 seeds last December, off my Haemanthus barkerae bulb which >> produced two separate blooms 3 months earlier, in September. Two of the seeds >> germinated and produced leaves almost immediately ... but the other seeds have yet to >> do so. The remaining seeds themselves seem to appear healthy, plump and solid and >> unaffected by fungi or molds. I've kept them moist, in bright light but not direct >> sunlight, outdoors this past very mild winter here in San Diego. Should I continue to >> wait and give them a chance at germination? Should seeds of this species be >> completely covered, for better germination? I have seen a fair number of fleshy amaryllid seed from many genera never sprout, though looking healthy on arrival, while their siblings grow actively. I have never dissected the seeds to see whether they had embryos. Perhaps these seeds have had the endosperm nucleus fertilized but not the embryo nucleus. Cycads are only very distantly related to flowering plants, and have a different seed strategy, but it is common for some Cycadales genera to form what appear to be fully-developed seeds that lack embryos. By the way, Ken, I don't think it's a good idea to cover fleshy amaryllid seed. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat, 22 Mar 2014 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Cyrtanthus in Kenya? Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 22:57:19 +0000 Have him describe the seed From john@oltarakwa.co.uk Sun, 23 Mar 2014 03:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <002301cf467b$ed5ed2d0$c81c7870$@oltarakwa.co.uk> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Cyrtanthus in Kenya? Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 09:40:28 -0000 Flora of Tropical East Africa gives four subspecies of Cyrtanthus sanguineus in Kenya, of which two are found in the vicinity of Nairobi. Subsp. salmonoides has salmon-pink flowers, from grassland in the Ngong Hills area, and subsp. ballyi has bright red, crimson or scarlet flowers, from lower altitude grassland/savanna on impeded drainage sites, also only near Nairobi. [I imagine both are now threatened by the rampant expansion of Nairobi and its population.] C. breviflorus with yellow flowers is the only other East African species (with a wide distribution from South Africa north to Kenya), but it is a high altitude plant. I've seen it high on Mt Rungwe in southern Tanzania in scrubby vegetation above the treeline (c. 2700m). John Grimshaw -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Nicholas Plummer Sent: 22 March 2014 21:22 To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Cyrtanthus in Kenya? The Wiki says that C. sanguineus can be pink, and various web sites say it grows in Kenya. I have never seen a pink C. sanguineus, so is this a likely ID? Are there other Cyrtanthus species in Kenya? Nick Plummer Durham, NC, USA From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sun, 23 Mar 2014 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <036c01cf46b5$bd65bd20$38313760$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Wikipedia :references to PBS Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 09:34:17 -0700 Maggi wrote: >> I have sent you an email detailing a long list of references to the PBS online which I hope will be of use to you for building your wikipedia listing. I got it. Thanks!! From rredbbeard@yahoo.com Sun, 23 Mar 2014 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1395593352.99602.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web120401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rick Buell Subject: stratification/chilling of aloe polyphylla seeds? Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 09:49:12 -0700 (PDT) Do these seeds have to go through several hard freeze cycles, or will a week at 0* to 2*C suffice? Thanks, --Rick Buell From penstemon@Q.com Sun, 23 Mar 2014 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: stratification/chilling of aloe polyphylla seeds? Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 11:01:26 -0600 Do these seeds have to go through several hard freeze cycles, or will a week at 0* to 2*C suffice? There is a thesis online, on this very subject. http://www.ecotree.net/thesis.pdf It comes from this website: http://www.ecotree.net/spiral_aloes.shtml Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA snowdrops almost done From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Sun, 23 Mar 2014 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: "M. Gastil-Buhl" Subject: request for source for Disa tubers or in vitro plants Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 10:09:12 -0700 Bertrand Lerot of Belgium has written to PBS via our contact form. Hello, I'm from Belgium. I grow some terrestrial orchids and the Disa species is very lovely flowers. I've D. uniflora and D. aurata as species in growing. I'm looking for other Disa species but there are difficult to find. Can you tell me where I can find tuber to sell of this genera? Thank you so much Nice regards Bertrand He has already searched the PBS Sources page but only seeds are listed. Please reply directly to: bertrandlerot@yahoo.fr (bertrandlerot at yahoo.fr) From plicht@berkeley.edu Sun, 23 Mar 2014 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Paul LICHT Subject: stratification/chilling of aloe polyphylla seeds? Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 14:22:52 -0700 We've been germinating this seed for years (usually fresh) and the key factor is scarification. No cold treatment required. Paul -- Paul Licht, Director University of California Botanical Garden 200 Centennial Drive Berkeley, CA 94720 (510)-643-8999http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 10:01 AM, penstemon wrote: > > Do these seeds have to go through several hard freeze cycles, or will a > week at > 0* to 2*C suffice? > > > There is a thesis online, on this very subject. > http://www.ecotree.net/thesis.pdf > It comes from this website: http://www.ecotree.net/spiral_aloes.shtml > > > Bob Nold > Denver, Colorado, USA > snowdrops almost done > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From michaelcmace@gmail.com Mon, 24 Mar 2014 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <045401cf47bd$17f02980$47d07c80$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: How to grow Dichelostemma ida-maia in a cold climate Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2014 16:59:26 -0700 I'm late coming back to this issue, but Michael, if you're still listening, I think the advice already given is good. The one thing I'd add is that in its native climate, the ground gets bone dry in July-October. So if you want to see it in bloom more than once, you'll need to dig it up or protect it from summer rain. Hope that helps. Mike San Jose, CA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 24 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: How to grow Dichelostemma ida-maia in a cold climate Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2014 18:21:56 -0700 Mike wrote: >I'm late coming back to this issue, but Michael, if you're still listening, >I think the advice already given is good. The one thing I'd add is that in >its native climate, the ground gets bone dry in July-October. So if you want >to see it in bloom more than once, you'll need to dig it up or protect it >from summer rain. I've grown this plant from coastal northern California (which doesn't usually experience the extreme summer drought of the more southern and interior areas) outdoors for many years in the Portland, Oregon, area. It is in ordinary borders as well as places that aren't watered in summer and does fine, as long as the drainage is good. There is even a volunteer among the Eucomis, which need summer water. It isn't as fussy as Mike suggests when it's in the ground, though probably it is less tolerant of summer water in a pot. It isn't a suitable pot subject anyway, being very tall and slender. In nature it grows among grasses and shrubs, which support it. Bulbs tend to work their way deep into the soil, which would help them survive in colder climates. It is a great favorite of hummingbirds, which are probably its only pollinator. Closely resembling it in flower form but different in color and very different in growth habit is the peculiar Dichelostemma volubile, which has a twining stem that can attain more than a meter in length. Its flowers are bright pink. Both these species can continue to lkook fresh in flower and ripen their seed after the stem has come detached from the bulb; apparently there is enough moisture in the long stems to support this. There is a plant sold in Dutch bulb catalogs as 'Pink Diamond' which is either a color variant of D. ida-maia or a hybrid of these two species. There was some confusion about its origin that referred it to D. x venusta, but this was an error. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From jxmuller@gmx.de Tue, 25 Mar 2014 09:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Jenny Muller" Subject: Bulbs grown from seed Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 16:56:31 +0100 I am attempting to grow the following from seed this year: Freesia alba (8 to an 8 inch clay pot) Zantedeschia pentlandii (3 inch pots) Pasithea caerula (8 to a 4 inch pot) Freesia / unknown wild species)(12 in a 6 inch pot) All of them have germinated for me from a 4 Feb. sowing. I was pleased and surprised as this is the first time I've ever tried growing bulbs from seeds. My question is, what do I do now? Should I leave them in their pots or prick them out individually? Also, I don't seem to be able to find anything about Pasithea caerula's soil requirements. Any info would be appreciated. Thank you all. Jenny Muller, zone 8b, East of Frankfurt, Germany, where we didn't have a winter this year and every thing seems to think its late spring/early summer. From jwickham@sbcglobal.net Tue, 25 Mar 2014 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1395766797.43214.YahooMailNeo@web185301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: John Wickham Subject: Bulbs grown from seed Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 09:59:57 -0700 (PDT) I leave my seedlings in those sized pots for awhile, letting them grow out over a couple of years. I have all my bulbs in pots anyways, so a small pot makes sense for the first couple of years. Regardless, I let them go dormant before sifting them out of the pots. John ________________________________ From: Jenny Muller To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 8:56 AM Subject: [pbs] Bulbs grown from seed I am attempting to grow the following from seed this year:             Freesia alba (8 to an 8 inch clay pot)             Zantedeschia pentlandii (3 inch pots)             Pasithea caerula (8 to a 4 inch pot)             Freesia / unknown wild species)(12 in a 6 inch pot) All of them have germinated for me from a 4 Feb. sowing.  I was pleased and surprised as this is the first time I've ever tried growing bulbs from seeds.  My question is, what do I do now?  Should I leave them in their pots or prick them out individually? Also, I don't seem to be able to find anything about Pasithea caerula's soil requirements.  Any info would be appreciated. Thank you all. Jenny Muller, zone 8b, East of Frankfurt, Germany, where we didn't have a winter this year and every thing seems to think its late spring/early summer. From michaelcmace@gmail.com Tue, 25 Mar 2014 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <04d201cf4852$30f192d0$92d4b870$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: How to grow Dichelostemma ida-maia in a cold climate Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 10:45:57 -0700 Jane wrote: >>I've grown this plant from coastal northern California (which doesn't usually experience the extreme summer drought of the more southern and interior areas) outdoors for many years in the Portland, Oregon, area. Thanks for the correction, Jane. I think you're right, and that probably explains why I've sometimes had trouble maintaining D. ida-maia in smaller pots. The question of how dry bulbs should be in the summer is very tricky. There are definitely many California bulbs that don't want any water. But some others need a bit of summer moisture, especially if the pot or bed stays cool. The North American Fritillaria species are a good example; I have a terrible time maintaining them, probably because my pots get too dry in summer. Mike San Jose, CA From awilson@avonia.com Tue, 25 Mar 2014 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <23DDA811690D45AEB9CB37B90856741B@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: syringodea Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 11:18:02 -0700 The genus Syringodea in the Wiki section includes Syringodea bifucata (syn. Syringodea bicolor). My question is lexical, rather than botanical, in nature. Is 'bifucata' the correct species name or should it be 'bifurcata'. I have seen the bulb appear multiple times under both names on the internet. If 'bifucata' is correct perhaps somebody can explain what it means. Thanks Andrew San Diego From awilson@avonia.com Tue, 25 Mar 2014 13:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <31D0933F1DDB41779A5ECF6CDA616498@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: syringodea Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 12:17:25 -0700 I checked, and I found that 'fucata' means 'colored'. Since S. bicolor is the altermative name I assume that 'S. fucata' is correct. Andrew San Diego From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 25 Mar 2014 13:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1395775929.80333.YahooMailNeo@web121305.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: syringodea Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 12:32:09 -0700 (PDT) Andrew wrote: "I found that 'fucata' means 'colored'.  Actually, the meaning is closer to falsified with paint, as makeup or other cosmetics.  Jim McKenney On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 3:19 PM, AW wrote: I checked, and I found that 'fucata' means 'colored'. Since S. bicolor is the altermative name I assume that 'S. fucata' is correct. Andrew San Diego From arnold140@verizon.net Tue, 25 Mar 2014 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <23084975.1535283.1395797083019.JavaMail.root@vznit170170> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: syringodea Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 20:24:42 -0500 (CDT) Andrew: In medicine "bifurcate" is divided in two. I haven't seen the plant. Arnold From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 25 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Bulbs grown from seed Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 01:50:53 +0000 The Freesias are probably winter growers, F. alba certainly is Zantedeschia pentlandii is a summer grower/dry winter dormant Pasithea caerulea is not a bulb, but an herbaceous perennial with swollen roots. It is a winter grower/summer dormant. Needs well drained soil and full sun. It likes it warmish although very fine specimes were grown at the S. American slope at UCBG Berkeley where winters are not precisely Caribbean. Generally speaking it is better to start with smaller pots and potting on to larger pots the whole rootball without any pricking, which bubous plants seedlings particularly dislike. From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Tue, 25 Mar 2014 22:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: syringodea Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 15:40:01 +1100 Hi Andrew There is a volume of "Flora of Southern Africa" which covers Syringodea and Romulea [Vol. 7, part 2, fascicle 2] published in 1983 In it the 2 genera are revised by Miriam de Vos Ms de Vos coined the specific epithet "bifucata" at this time A quote from page 2,2: 4 under S. bifucata "a new name [S. bifucata] is given which refers, which refers, like the illegitimate epithet bicolor, to the two-coloured perianth" Ergo, the name is all about 2-coloured flowers and not about subdivided bits Regards Peter in Sydney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of AW Sent: Wednesday, 26 March 2014 6:17 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] syringodea I checked, and I found that 'fucata' means 'colored'. Since S. bicolor is the altermative name I assume that 'S. fucata' is correct. Andrew San Diego From msittner@mcn.org Tue, 25 Mar 2014 22:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <20140326044623.DC5A923D17@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: syringodea Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 21:46:13 -0700 Syringodea bifucata M.P.de Vos, Fl. S. Afr. 7(2: 2): 4 (1983). Sanbi, the Kew Check List, The Plant List, and IPNI all agree on this name (replacing Syringodea bicolor). A search for fucata, botany, greek retrieved this reference: A Popular California flora, or, Manual of botany for beginners fucata = colored It seems the meaning of the plant didn't really change with the changed name. >My question is lexical, rather than botanical, in nature. Is >'bifucata' the correct species name or should it be 'bifurcata'. >I have seen the bulb appear multiple times under both names on the >internet. If 'bifucata' is correct perhaps somebody can explain what >it means. Thanks From awilson@avonia.com Wed, 26 Mar 2014 00:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <960C5C8E00E34737A24698ABDBFB4355@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: syringodea Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 23:19:51 -0700 Thanks for the replies, one and all. I think we have fully covered this topic and have resolved the matter. I was prompted to ask the question because I had just received from Georg Fritz in Heidelberg, Gauteng some images of bulbs in bloom at Devon, in that area, including some of S. fucata (which he labels as S. bicolor). It appears that they have had wet weather there for weeks but, from the images, bulbs such as Nerine gracilis, growing in black soil seemed to be blooming spectacularly in those wet, marshy conditions. Amazing! Andrew San Diego From ds429@frontier.com Wed, 26 Mar 2014 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1395857205.43492.YahooMailNeo@web121902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 357 Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 11:06:45 -0700 (PDT) Dear All,          The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared.    If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at    mailto: ds429@frontier.com     Include "BX 357" in the subject line.             Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 - $5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added.        Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:              If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to:   Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA   Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds.               I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Uli Urban: (SEEDS)   1. Achimenes pedunculata, aerial bulbili summer growing winter dormant Gesneriad, upright plant to 1m tall, lots of small orange-red flowers, needs good light 2. Albuca aurea not really yellow, rather greenish yellow upright flowers, stout evergreen plant, flowers in spring 50cm tall. Always looks somewhat untidy. 3. Albuca shawii (Ornithogalum shawii; Albuca tenuifolia) 40cm tall, summer growing, winter dormant, nodding yellow unscented flowers, pleasantly fragrant foliage 4. Albuca sp.?. bought as shawii but distinct. Leaves not fragrant, scented yellow nodding flowers, 40cm, possibly a variation of shawii 5. Albuca sp.? tall white inflorescence, evergreen tidy foliage, very lush plant. bought as a very small offset in a California rare plant fair, 1,5m tall. 6. Allium cernuum charming inflorescence of many dangling purple urns, stamens protruding. 60cm tall, very hardy, summer flowering 7. Arisaema cf. consanguineum. from Chiltern seeds, tall plant, many leaflets arranged radially, green flowers, enormous bright red fruit. Not tested for hardiness. 1.2m tall. 8. Canna paniculata (?) evergreen, no rest period, it will die if you keep it as a dry rhizome. flowers in spring rather insignificant. But magnificent foliage plant. Identity not certain, from a few grains from Bolivia. 9. Dahlia coccinea (var palmeri) (open pollinated, may not come true) The original seed was from Harry Hay. Collecting data available. Fantastic plant, likes cool summers and/or semi shade. best in September when it cools down. 2,5m tall, very elegant, finely dissected foliage, horizontal bright orange single flowers. Seeds germinate best in cool conditions. Some plants may flower yellow, also attractive. VERY IMPORTANT: the tubers will form at a good distance from the main stem, only attached by a thin string-like root. It DOES form tubers, take care when digging it up for winter storage. Does not reach its adult size the first year from seed. 10. Ipomoea lindheimeri not a tuber but a fleshy rhizome. Pretty light blue flowers with a cream throat, slighty scented. A US native. Easy. 11. Lilium 'White Tetra Trumpets' like a giant version of Lilium regale but lacking its elegance. 12. Mirabilis jalapa tall form much taller than the trade form. Up to 1,8m. large mostly purple flowers. The tuber is so big that I can hardly carry it when I dig it up for winter storage. From cultivated plants in Bolivia. 13. Nerine bowdenii Typ Oswald From Mr Oswald in the former East-Germany. The origin of this plant is obscure. Looks like ordinary N. bowdenii but much hardier. Mr Oswald grows his stock plants among the beans and strawberries in his garden, heavily mulched in winter. (Zone 7) Seed has sprouted and is forming small bulbs. Should be planted immediately on receipt. Summer growing, it should still form a small plant this season. 14. Nerine alta (N. undulata)(?) Bought as N. bowdenii seed from David Human in South Africa but is so distinct that I doubt. Very frilled narrow petals, many more flowers per stem than bowdenii. Has proved extremely hardy (Zone 7, Temps can go down to -20°C) with winter mulch and protection from winter wet. Takes a long time to establish. Very attractive. Seed has sprouted as well, see above. 15. Tradescantia boliviana Only recently described. 80cm tall upright perennial, summer growing, strictly and completely dry winter dormancy. Needs full sun to remain upright, masses of medium sized purple triangles along the shoots, very attractive. Bolivian native. 16. Tropaeolum pentaphyllum subsp.  megapetalum. The summer growing and winter dormant version of T. pentaphyllum, Has two relatively large bright red "ears". Difficult and slow to germinate, sometimes germinating very easily. Forms very large sausage shaped tubers, strictly winter dormant. Very vigorous climber. Bolivia   17. Zantedeschia jucunda, originally from Chiltern seeds, summer growing winter dormant species. Attractive foliage is bright green with white dots and the flowers are of a very thick wax like texture, very long lasting but.... not very numerous. always sets seed but this takes ages to ripen. I am not sure if this seeds is properly ripe, the pods went soft  and mushy so I cleaned and dried it. The pods remain on the plant long after the leaves have died down.     From Roy Herold:   Roy says,  “Most of the Rhodohypoxis are blooming size. The Calanthes will take another year to bloom. Both winter over under the benches of the cool greenhouse but may do okay outdoors in Zone 7, or colder with snow cover and/or ideal siting.” Bulbs/Rhizomes: 18. Rhodohypoxis 'Albrighton' 19. Rhodohypoxis 'Hinky Pinky' (few) 20. Rhodohypoxis 'Candy Stripe' 21. Rhodohypoxis 'Stella' 22. Rhodohypoxis 'Tetra Pink' 23. Rhodohypoxis 'Harlequin' 24. Rhodohypoxis 'Matt's White' --I received this one from Matt Mattus as 'White', possibly due to a lost label. I'm sure it has a proper cultivar name (perhaps 'Helen'), but I haven't been able to figure it out for sure. 25. Calanthe 'Kozu Hybrids'--Brick Red 26. Calanthe 'Kozu Hybrids'--Pink Seeds: 27. Eucomis vandermerwei (OP, some might be hybrids with E. zambesiaca) 28. Eucomis zambesiaca (OP, some might be hybrids with E. vandermerwei)   From Bill Welch: 29. Seed of Narcissus tazetta , best autumn and winter-flowering selections, hand-crossed, often with polyploids. Full range of colors   From Dave Brastow:   30. Seed of Zephyranthes macrosiphon   From Jerry Lehmann:   31. Seeds of Actaea pachypoda from cultivated stock   From Ann Patterson:   33. Seeds of Heirloom hippeastrum that was discussed on the list a while back. One order only.     Thank you, Uli, Roy, Bill, Jerry, Dave, and Ann !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From blancawingate@gmail.com Wed, 26 Mar 2014 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <5333354B.6090801@gmail.com> From: Blanca Wingate Subject: BX 357 Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 13:15:07 -0700 Dear Del, I hope that everyone renewed their memberships. :-) I am very interested in: From Ann Patterson: 33. Seeds of Heirloom hippeastrum that was discussed on the list a while back. One order only. Sincerely yours, Blanche Wingate P.O. Box 279 Point Reyes, CA 94956 From blancawingate@gmail.com Wed, 26 Mar 2014 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <533338F9.7050202@gmail.com> From: Blanca Wingate Subject: BX 357 Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 13:30:49 -0700 Dear all, I am so sorry and embarrassed. I got excited and, in my hurry to reply, inadvertently sent my message to list instead of privately to Del. I would be very grateful, if my message could be deleted. Apologies, Blanca From brenna.green@gmail.com Wed, 26 Mar 2014 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Brenna Green Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 357 Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 14:25:33 -0700 Hi Dell, 7 12 29 Thanks! On Mar 26, 2014 11:06 AM, "ds429" wrote: > Dear All, > > The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends > to be shared. > > If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me > PRIVATELY at > > mailto: ds429@frontier.com > > Include "BX 357" in the subject line. > > > Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not > specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, > too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first > come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, > included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of > seeds or $3 - $5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to < > pbs.treasury@verizon.net>; no money orders, please) you should send the > PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. > > Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are > not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership > charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb > Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take > advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: < > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/> > > If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the > PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their > donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 55 W. High St. > Salem, WV 26426 > USA > > Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. > > I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > > > > From Uli Urban: (SEEDS) > > 1. Achimenes pedunculata, aerial bulbili > summer growing winter dormant Gesneriad, upright plant to 1m tall, lots of > small orange-red flowers, needs good light > > 2. Albuca aurea > not really yellow, rather greenish yellow upright flowers, stout evergreen > plant, flowers in spring 50cm tall. Always looks somewhat untidy. > > 3. Albuca shawii (Ornithogalum shawii; Albuca tenuifolia) > 40cm tall, summer growing, winter dormant, nodding yellow > unscented flowers, pleasantly fragrant foliage > > 4. Albuca sp.?. > bought as shawii but distinct. Leaves not fragrant, scented yellow nodding > flowers, 40cm, possibly a variation of shawii > > 5. Albuca sp.? > tall white inflorescence, evergreen tidy foliage, very lush plant. bought > as a very small offset in a California rare plant fair, 1,5m tall. > > 6. Allium cernuum > charming inflorescence of many dangling purple urns, stamens protruding. > 60cm tall, very hardy, summer flowering > > 7. Arisaema cf. consanguineum. > from Chiltern seeds, tall plant, many leaflets arranged radially, green > flowers, enormous bright red fruit. Not tested for hardiness. 1.2m tall. > > 8. Canna paniculata (?) > evergreen, no rest period, it will die if you keep it as a dry rhizome. > flowers in spring rather insignificant. But magnificent foliage plant. > Identity not certain, from a few grains from Bolivia. > > 9. Dahlia coccinea (var palmeri) (open pollinated, may not come true) > The original seed was from Harry Hay. Collecting data available. Fantastic > plant, likes cool summers and/or semi shade. best in September when it > cools down. 2,5m tall, very elegant, finely dissected foliage, horizontal > bright orange single flowers. Seeds germinate best in cool conditions. Some > plants may flower yellow, also attractive. VERY IMPORTANT: the tubers will > form at a good distance from the main stem, only attached by a thin > string-like root. It DOES form tubers, take care when digging it up for > winter storage. Does not reach its adult size the first year from seed. > > 10. Ipomoea lindheimeri > not a tuber but a fleshy rhizome. Pretty light blue flowers with a cream > throat, slighty scented. A US native. Easy. > > 11. Lilium 'White Tetra Trumpets' > like a giant version of Lilium regale but lacking its elegance. > > 12. Mirabilis jalapa tall form > much taller than the trade form. Up to 1,8m. large mostly purple flowers. > The tuber is so big that I can hardly carry it when I dig it up for winter > storage. From cultivated plants in Bolivia. > > 13. Nerine bowdenii Typ Oswald > From Mr Oswald in the former East-Germany. The origin of this plant is > obscure. Looks like ordinary N. bowdenii but much hardier. Mr Oswald grows > his stock plants among the beans and strawberries in his garden, heavily > mulched in winter. (Zone 7) Seed has sprouted and is forming small bulbs. > Should be planted immediately on receipt. Summer growing, it should still > form a small plant this season. > > 14. Nerine alta (N. undulata)(?) > Bought as N. bowdenii seed from David Human in South Africa but is so > distinct that I doubt. Very frilled narrow petals, many more flowers per > stem than bowdenii. Has proved extremely hardy (Zone 7, Temps can go down > to -20°C) with winter mulch and protection from winter wet. Takes a long > time to establish. Very attractive. Seed has sprouted as well, see above. > > 15. Tradescantia boliviana > Only recently described. 80cm tall upright perennial, summer growing, > strictly and completely dry winter dormancy. Needs full sun to remain > upright, masses of medium sized purple triangles along the shoots, very > attractive. Bolivian native. > > 16. Tropaeolum pentaphyllum subsp. megapetalum. > The summer growing and winter dormant version of T. pentaphyllum, Has two > relatively large bright red "ears". Difficult and slow to germinate, > sometimes germinating very easily. Forms very large sausage shaped tubers, > strictly winter dormant. Very vigorous climber. Bolivia > > 17. Zantedeschia jucunda, originally from Chiltern seeds, summer growing > winter dormant species. Attractive foliage is bright green with white dots > and the flowers are of a very thick wax like texture, very long lasting > but.... not very numerous. always sets seed but this takes ages to ripen. I > am not sure if this seeds is properly ripe, the pods went soft and mushy > so I cleaned and dried it. The pods remain on the plant long after the > leaves have died down. > > > From Roy Herold: > > Roy says, "Most of the Rhodohypoxis are blooming size. The Calanthes will > take another year > to bloom. Both winter over under the benches of the cool greenhouse but > may do okay outdoors in Zone 7, or colder with snow cover and/or ideal > siting." > > > Bulbs/Rhizomes: > > 18. Rhodohypoxis 'Albrighton' > 19. Rhodohypoxis 'Hinky Pinky' (few) > 20. Rhodohypoxis 'Candy Stripe' > 21. Rhodohypoxis 'Stella' > 22. Rhodohypoxis 'Tetra Pink' > 23. Rhodohypoxis 'Harlequin' > 24. Rhodohypoxis 'Matt's White' --I received this one from Matt Mattus as > 'White', possibly due to a lost label. I'm sure it has a proper cultivar > name (perhaps 'Helen'), but I haven't been able to figure it out for sure. > 25. Calanthe 'Kozu Hybrids'--Brick Red > 26. Calanthe 'Kozu Hybrids'--Pink > > Seeds: > > 27. Eucomis vandermerwei (OP, some might be hybrids with E. zambesiaca) > 28. Eucomis zambesiaca (OP, some might be hybrids with E. vandermerwei) > > From Bill Welch: > 29. Seed of Narcissus tazetta , best autumn and winter-flowering > selections, hand-crossed, often with polyploids. Full range of colors > > From Dave Brastow: > > 30. Seed of Zephyranthes macrosiphon > > From Jerry Lehmann: > > 31. Seeds of Actaea pachypoda from cultivated stock > > From Ann Patterson: > > 33. Seeds of Heirloom hippeastrum that was discussed on the list a while > back. One order only. > > > Thank you, Uli, Roy, Bill, Jerry, Dave, and Ann !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Wed, 26 Mar 2014 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <011a01cf4955$07acd9d0$17068d70$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Dipcadi Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 19:39:36 -0500 Hello- I have a couple new flowers and I would like to confirm the identities, if anyone has experience with this genus. Neither of these are listed on the Wiki. #1: Dipcadi ciliare #2 Dipcadi brevifolium Considering how many species of Dipcadi there are; it doesn't seem like many are in cultivation. I have 2 more species; but not the more common D. serotinum or montanum that I was able to find pictures. I tried Google to see if there were any interesting websites and didn't find anything. I didn't see anyone selling these bulbs either. Thanks for any info on these or other species. Best regards, Lisa From arnold140@verizon.net Wed, 26 Mar 2014 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <12319812.1367208.1395886808158.JavaMail.root@vms170025> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Dipcadi Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 21:20:08 -0500 (CDT) Lisa: In Kubitzki's The Families and Genera of Vascualr Plants, Vol III, Flowering Plants and Monocotyledons, Dipcadi is listed as having 30 species. W Mediterranean to Central Asia, Arabia, Africa, Sokotra Ceylon and India. If you want the reference I can scan and send along. Contact me privately. Arnold On 03/26/14, Shoal Creek Succulents wrote: Hello- I have a couple new flowers and I would like to confirm the identities, if anyone has experience with this genus. Neither of these are listed on the Wiki. #1: Dipcadi ciliare #2 Dipcadi brevifolium Considering how many species of Dipcadi there are; it doesn't seem like many are in cultivation. I have 2 more species; but not the more common D. serotinum or montanum that I was able to find pictures. I tried Google to see if there were any interesting websites and didn't find anything. I didn't see anyone selling these bulbs either. Thanks for any info on these or other species. Best regards, Lisa From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 26 Mar 2014 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <53339273.6030705@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Kniphofia typhoides Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2014 15:52:35 +1300 I will send seed of this to the PBS tomorrow. I grow it in the equivalent of Zone 10a and it does fine in a bog garden. Will it grow where there is frost? A friend would like some seed in the South Island of NZ. Where they get snow and frost. Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From msittner@mcn.org Wed, 26 Mar 2014 21:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <20140327032522.3C0B923EEE@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Dipcadi Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 20:25:09 -0700 Hi Lisa, You could look at the images that people have added in iSpot and see what you think. http://www.ispot.org.za/species_dictionary/Dipcadi And if you think they are correct consider adding them to the wiki. Mary Sue From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Wed, 26 Mar 2014 21:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1395891328.93094.YahooMailNeo@web122301.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Kniphofia typhoides Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 20:35:28 -0700 (PDT) I grew this in the Kansas City area of eastern Kansas which, during the time I grew it there, the plant experienced lows to -10 F. It seemed perfectly content there, flowering and setting seed.  Aaron Floden  eastern Tennessee On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 10:52 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: Will it grow where there is frost?  A friend would like some seed in the South Island of NZ.  Where they get snow and frost. From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 26 Mar 2014 22:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <5333AC2B.6040303@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Kniphofia typhoides Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2014 17:42:19 +1300 Thank you Aaron! Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 27/03/2014 4:35 p.m., aaron floden wrote: > I grew this in the Kansas City area of eastern Kansas which, during the time I grew it there, the plant experienced lows to -10 F. It seemed perfectly content there, flowering and setting seed. > > Aaron Floden > eastern Tennessee > > > > > > On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 10:52 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > > > > Will it grow where there is frost? A friend would like some seed in the > South Island of NZ. Where they get snow and frost. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Thu, 27 Mar 2014 04:17:11 -0700 Message-Id: <004601cf49a8$c764f750$562ee5f0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Dipcadi Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2014 05:39:05 -0500 Thanks Arnold- I'll check into this reference. Thanks for looking ! Best regards, Lisa -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of arnold140@verizon.net Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 9:20 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Dipcadi Lisa: In Kubitzki's The Families and Genera of Vascualr Plants, Vol III, Flowering Plants and Monocotyledons, Dipcadi is listed as having 30 species. W Mediterranean to Central Asia, Arabia, Africa, Sokotra Ceylon and India. If you want the reference I can scan and send along. Contact me privately. Arnold On 03/26/14, Shoal Creek Succulents wrote: Hello- I have a couple new flowers and I would like to confirm the identities, if anyone has experience with this genus. Neither of these are listed on the Wiki. #1: Dipcadi ciliare #2 Dipcadi brevifolium Considering how many species of Dipcadi there are; it doesn't seem like many are in cultivation. I have 2 more species; but not the more common D. serotinum or montanum that I was able to find pictures. I tried Google to see if there were any interesting websites and didn't find anything. I didn't see anyone selling these bulbs either. Thanks for any info on these or other species. Best regards, Lisa From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Thu, 27 Mar 2014 04:17:11 -0700 Message-Id: <004801cf49a9$2f1ffd40$8d5ff7c0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Dipcadi Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2014 05:42:00 -0500 Thanks Mary Sue- Hadnt heard of that site; there are lots of pictures. Much appreciated! Best regards, Lisa -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 10:25 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Dipcadi Hi Lisa, You could look at the images that people have added in iSpot and see what you think. http://www.ispot.org.za/species_dictionary/Dipcadi And if you think they are correct consider adding them to the wiki. Mary Sue From ds429@frontier.com Thu, 27 Mar 2014 05:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1395921804.9899.YahooMailNeo@web121901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Pacific BX 357 CLOSED Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2014 05:03:24 -0700 (PDT) Everything is claimed. Packages should go out in a week.   Enjoy, Dell   Dell Sherk, PBS BX From ds429@frontier.com Thu, 27 Mar 2014 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1395926514.66876.YahooMailNeo@web121906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: BX 357 Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2014 06:21:54 -0700 (PDT) I have received your order.   Best wishes, Dell   Dell Sherk, PBS BX >________________________________ >From: Blanca Wingate >To: pbs >Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 4:15 PM >Subject: [pbs] BX 357 > > >Dear Del, > >I hope that everyone renewed their memberships.  :-) > >I am very interested in: > From Ann Patterson: > >33. Seeds of Heirloom hippeastrum that was discussed on the list a while >back. One order only. > >Sincerely yours, > >Blanche Wingate >P.O. Box 279 >Point Reyes, CA 94956 > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > From ds429@frontier.com Thu, 27 Mar 2014 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1395927211.72181.YahooMailNeo@web121901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 357 Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2014 06:33:31 -0700 (PDT) I have received your order.   Best wishes, Dell   Dell Sherk, PBS BX >________________________________ >From: Brenna Green >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 5:25 PM >Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 357 > > >Hi Dell, > >7 >12 >29 > >Thanks! > >On Mar 26, 2014 11:06 AM, "ds429" wrote: > >> Dear All, >> >>        The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends >> to be shared. >> >>  If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me >> PRIVATELY at >> >> mailto: ds429@frontier.com >> >>  Include "BX 357" in the subject line. >> >> >>        Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not >> specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, >> too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first >> come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, >> included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of >> seeds or $3 - $5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to < >> pbs.treasury@verizon.net>; no money orders, please) you should send the >> PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. >> >>      Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are >> not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership >> charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb >> Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take >> advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: < >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/> >> >>          If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the >> PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their >> donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: >> >> Dell Sherk >> 55 W. High St. >> Salem, WV 26426 >> USA >> >> Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. >> >>            I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. >> IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! >> >> >> >> From Uli Urban: (SEEDS) >> >> 1. Achimenes pedunculata, aerial bulbili >> summer growing winter dormant Gesneriad, upright plant to 1m tall, lots of >> small orange-red flowers, needs good light >> >> 2. Albuca aurea >> not really yellow, rather greenish yellow upright flowers, stout evergreen >> plant, flowers in spring 50cm tall. Always looks somewhat untidy. >> >> 3. Albuca shawii (Ornithogalum shawii; Albuca tenuifolia) >> 40cm tall, summer growing, winter dormant, nodding yellow >> unscented flowers, pleasantly fragrant foliage >> >> 4. Albuca sp.?. >> bought as shawii but distinct. Leaves not fragrant, scented yellow nodding >> flowers, 40cm, possibly a variation of shawii >> >> 5. Albuca sp.? >> tall white inflorescence, evergreen tidy foliage, very lush plant. bought >> as a very small offset in a California rare plant fair, 1,5m tall. >> >> 6. Allium cernuum >> charming inflorescence of many dangling purple urns, stamens protruding. >> 60cm tall, very hardy, summer flowering >> >> 7. Arisaema cf. consanguineum. >> from Chiltern seeds, tall plant, many leaflets arranged radially, green >> flowers, enormous bright red fruit. Not tested for hardiness. 1.2m tall. >> >> 8. Canna paniculata (?) >> evergreen, no rest period, it will die if you keep it as a dry rhizome. >> flowers in spring rather insignificant. But magnificent foliage plant. >> Identity not certain, from a few grains from Bolivia. >> >> 9. Dahlia coccinea (var palmeri) (open pollinated, may not come true) >> The original seed was from Harry Hay. Collecting data available. Fantastic >> plant, likes cool summers and/or semi shade. best in September when it >> cools down. 2,5m tall, very elegant, finely dissected foliage, horizontal >> bright orange single flowers. Seeds germinate best in cool conditions. Some >> plants may flower yellow, also attractive. VERY IMPORTANT: the tubers will >> form at a good distance from the main stem, only attached by a thin >> string-like root. It DOES form tubers, take care when digging it up for >> winter storage. Does not reach its adult size the first year from seed. >> >> 10. Ipomoea lindheimeri >> not a tuber but a fleshy rhizome. Pretty light blue flowers with a cream >> throat, slighty scented. A US native. Easy. >> >> 11. Lilium 'White Tetra Trumpets' >> like a giant version of Lilium regale but lacking its elegance. >> >> 12. Mirabilis jalapa tall form >> much taller than the trade form. Up to 1,8m. large mostly purple flowers. >> The tuber is so big that I can hardly carry it when I dig it up for winter >> storage. From cultivated plants in Bolivia. >> >> 13. Nerine bowdenii Typ Oswald >> From Mr Oswald in the former East-Germany. The origin of this plant is >> obscure. Looks like ordinary N. bowdenii but much hardier. Mr Oswald grows >> his stock plants among the beans and strawberries in his garden, heavily >> mulched in winter. (Zone 7) Seed has sprouted and is forming small bulbs. >> Should be planted immediately on receipt. Summer growing, it should still >> form a small plant this season. >> >> 14. Nerine alta (N. undulata)(?) >> Bought as N. bowdenii seed from David Human in South Africa but is so >> distinct that I doubt. Very frilled narrow petals, many more flowers per >> stem than bowdenii. Has proved extremely hardy (Zone 7, Temps can go down >> to -20°C) with winter mulch and protection from winter wet. Takes a long >> time to establish. Very attractive. Seed has sprouted as well, see above. >> >> 15. Tradescantia boliviana >> Only recently described. 80cm tall upright perennial, summer growing, >> strictly and completely dry winter dormancy. Needs full sun to remain >> upright, masses of medium sized purple triangles along the shoots, very >> attractive. Bolivian native. >> >> 16. Tropaeolum pentaphyllum subsp.  megapetalum. >> The summer growing and winter dormant version of T. pentaphyllum, Has two >> relatively large bright red "ears". Difficult and slow to germinate, >> sometimes germinating very easily. Forms very large sausage shaped tubers, >> strictly winter dormant. Very vigorous climber. Bolivia >> >> 17. Zantedeschia jucunda, originally from Chiltern seeds, summer growing >> winter dormant species. Attractive foliage is bright green with white dots >> and the flowers are of a very thick wax like texture, very long lasting >> but.... not very numerous. always sets seed but this takes ages to ripen. I >> am not sure if this seeds is properly ripe, the pods went soft  and mushy >> so I cleaned and dried it. The pods remain on the plant long after the >> leaves have died down. >> >> >> From Roy Herold: >> >> Roy says,  "Most of the Rhodohypoxis are blooming size. The Calanthes will >> take another year >> to bloom. Both winter over under the benches of the cool greenhouse but >> may do okay outdoors in Zone 7, or colder with snow cover and/or ideal >> siting." >> >> >> Bulbs/Rhizomes: >> >> 18. Rhodohypoxis 'Albrighton' >> 19. Rhodohypoxis 'Hinky Pinky' (few) >> 20. Rhodohypoxis 'Candy Stripe' >> 21. Rhodohypoxis 'Stella' >> 22. Rhodohypoxis 'Tetra Pink' >> 23. Rhodohypoxis 'Harlequin' >> 24. Rhodohypoxis 'Matt's White' --I received this one from Matt Mattus as >> 'White', possibly due to a lost label. I'm sure it has a proper cultivar >> name (perhaps 'Helen'), but I haven't been able to figure it out for sure. >> 25. Calanthe 'Kozu Hybrids'--Brick Red >> 26. Calanthe 'Kozu Hybrids'--Pink >> >> Seeds: >> >> 27. Eucomis vandermerwei (OP, some might be hybrids with E. zambesiaca) >> 28. Eucomis zambesiaca (OP, some might be hybrids with E. vandermerwei) >> >> From Bill Welch: >> 29. Seed of Narcissus tazetta , best autumn and winter-flowering >> selections, hand-crossed, often with polyploids. Full range of colors >> >> From Dave Brastow: >> >> 30. Seed of Zephyranthes macrosiphon >> >> From Jerry Lehmann: >> >> 31. Seeds of Actaea pachypoda from cultivated stock >> >> From Ann Patterson: >> >> 33. Seeds of Heirloom hippeastrum that was discussed on the list a while >> back. One order only. >> >> >> Thank you, Uli, Roy, Bill, Jerry, Dave, and Ann !! >> >> Best wishes, >> Dell >> >> Dell Sherk, PBS BX >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Thu, 27 Mar 2014 15:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <5F5E5A5758E04635B24C91E2803A3586@yourfe7fbfa660> From: "Youngs Aberdeen" Subject: International Rock Gardener - latest issue IRG 51 March 2014 Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2014 21:57:46 -0000 Subject: International Rock Gardener - latest issue IRG 51 March 2014 The latest issue of International Rock Gardener, now online, has articles from Gerrit Eijkelenboom from the Netherlands and Trond Høy from Norway on their individual reactions to the same trip earlier this year to see plants in South America with an international group of plant lovers. Just a few "bulbs" are mentioned, including some more in extra photos from Trond here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=4850.msg300337#msg300337 IRG 51 of March 2015 http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2014Mar271395955579IRG51March.pdf http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=international main page with all issues listed. A complete Index to the IRG to date is here : http://files.srgc.net/journals/IRGIndex51.pdf Submissions of new articles or photo reports from PBS members are most welcome - send to editor@internationalrockgardener.net M.Young From ramato2210@gmail.com Fri, 28 Mar 2014 04:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: romain amato Subject: Paramongaia weberbaueri time of flowering Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2014 12:03:10 +0100 dear all, My two bulbs of Paramongaia waberbaueri have now started their growing season for more than 3 weeks. The leaves are strong and about 50 cm tall, there are still new ones emerging. But I've not seen any flower bud (the bulbs are quite big, about 5 cm in diameter)...is it possible they appear when the leaves are fully grown? best regards Romain Amato From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri, 28 Mar 2014 06:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Paramongaia weberbaueri time of flowering Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2014 12:20:40 +0000 Yes, it flowers with the foliage well developed. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 28 Mar 2014 13:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: PBS website contact:Seed of Cryptostephanus haemanthoides and densiflorus. Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2014 12:59:12 -0700 The following inquiry from Anno Torr came to the PBS website. If you can help Anno find Cryptostephanus seeds, please reply directly, not to this forum. Jane McGary Membership COordinator, PBS >To: janemcgary@earthlink.net >Subject: PBS website contact:Seed of Cryptostephanus haemanhoides >and densiflorus. >From: Anno Torr >X-ELNK-Received-Info: spv=0; >X-ELNK-AV: 0 >X-ELNK-Info: sbv=0; sbrc=.0; sbf=0b; sbw=000; > >This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. Hi, I\'m >looking for seed of Cryptostephanus haemanthoides and densiflorus. >Would you be able to assist me with this request? Kind regards Anno >-- Pacific Bulb Society web site email: website@pacificbulbsociety.org From pelarg@aol.com Fri, 28 Mar 2014 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <8D118E89D7399BB-EE0-3BB0@webmail-vd001.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Kniphofia typhoides Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2014 18:02:58 -0400 (EDT) Hi Ina, I know that Ellen Hornig was able to grow Knifphofia typhoides in Oswego NY from what I recall, so it should certainly have no problems anywhere in New Zealand. It would have gotten good snow cover during winter in her old garden. I don't think it was especially robust, she could tell more, but winter conditions up there would exceed anything NZ has to offer except perhaps in the uppermost alpine regions where no one lives anyway. Ernie DeMarie Briarcliff Manor NY Rain falling, worst cold nights seem to be behind us, it has been a grueling winter but things are beginning to grow. From bonaventure@optonline.net Fri, 28 Mar 2014 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <392b250d.48d14.1450afc9e4c.Webtop.57@optonline.net> From: BO MAGRYS Subject: spring bloom in NJ Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2014 19:18:18 -0400 (EDT) Yes Carlo, Helicodiceros, Dracunculus vulgaris, and others that try to grow in cool winter weather for me get zapped by bitter chills and get smaller year to year. Thiswinter all my Arum leaves burned down, including italicum. Happily a second flush of leaves comes in the spring. Skunk cabbage always blooms in January. Bonaventure------------------------------  Message: 3 Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 16:02:07 -0400 From: "Carlo A. Balistrieri" To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] spring bloom in NJ Message-ID: <8FEC7171-4F88-4691-92DD-A01B8C564E63@netzero.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 The big test for me will be whether my Helicodiceros returns for its 3rd consecutive year in Flemington?... 2 6 2 . 4 9 0 . 6 1 6 3 New York NJ Philadelphia On Mar 19, 2014, at 5:12 PM, BO MAGRYS wrote: Despite the swings from teens at night to high 40 some days, Eranthis, Galanthus, and Crocus (yellow species) have started. Hellebores lag behind and are looking a bit burned. Hymenocallis in pot in basement starting to grow. Habenaria medusae tuber still plump, whew, though Arisaema nepenthoides tuber rotted away. Bonaventure Magrys _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hornig@oswego.edu Fri, 28 Mar 2014 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Kniphofia typhoides Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2014 20:37:14 -0400 Hi, Ernie et al - Yes, K. typhoides did do quite well in Oswego - I think I left that off my list, along with K. baurii, some forms of K. triangularis, and K. ichopensis (that one was lovely, but iffy). At some point I removed all the K. typhoides, having satisfied myself that it would grow, because although the bees sleeping on it on cold mornings made a sweet picture, it was not, if truth be told, especially attractive. I was top-dressing the front garden here (Shrewsbury, MA) with composted manure yesterday, and found that the little K. caulescens seedlings I set out last fall looked just fine - happiness! That one will always be a thrill to grow. These were from NARGS seed, and I don't know whether or not they'll turn out to be good blue ones - so if anyone out there has seeds of a really blue form going to waste, I would be very grateful to have a pinch. Just a thought! Ellen On Fri, Mar 28, 2014 at 6:02 PM, wrote: > > Hi Ina, > I know that Ellen Hornig was able to grow Knifphofia typhoides in Oswego > NY from what I recall, so it should certainly have no problems anywhere in > New Zealand. It would have gotten good snow cover during winter in her old > garden. I don't think it was especially robust, she could tell more, but > winter conditions up there would exceed anything NZ has to offer except > perhaps in the uppermost alpine regions where no one lives anyway. > Ernie DeMarie > Briarcliff Manor NY > Rain falling, worst cold nights seem to be behind us, it has been a > grueling winter but things are beginning to grow. > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Fri, 28 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "M. Gastil-Buhl" Subject: How long do Fritillaria agrestis blooms last? Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2014 19:12:25 -0700 David R. asks, via the contact form, "Hi, I'm wondering how long Fritillarias bloom? If I found Fritillaria agrestis in bloom now, how long will the blooms last if I want to bring my friend to see them? Thanks a bunch! David" The wiki shows photos taken in March http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/NorthAmericanFritillarias#agrestis and 'Bulbs of North America' gives a bloom time of mid-March to mid- April so now is a good time to go see these in the wild. Please respond to the list and David will view the answers here. - Gastil From xerantheum@gmail.com Fri, 28 Mar 2014 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Dipcadi Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2014 22:12:02 -0500 Hi Lisa, Dylan Hannon just sent me a number of Dipcadi photos and I have updated the wiki page. I hope it will help you with your identification. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Dipcadi Best, Nhu On Wed, Mar 26, 2014 at 7:39 PM, Shoal Creek Succulents < group@shoalcreeksucculents.com> wrote: > I have a couple new flowers and I would like to confirm the identities, if > anyone has experience with this genus. Neither of these are listed on the > Wiki. > From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Sat, 29 Mar 2014 05:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <00a001cf4b46$186af390$4940dab0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Dipcadi Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 06:57:43 -0500 Thanks Nhu & Dylan- It does. Much appreciated! :} Best regards, Lisa -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Nhu Nguyen Sent: Friday, March 28, 2014 10:12 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Dipcadi Hi Lisa, Dylan Hannon just sent me a number of Dipcadi photos and I have updated the wiki page. I hope it will help you with your identification. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Dipcadi Best, Nhu On Wed, Mar 26, 2014 at 7:39 PM, Shoal Creek Succulents < group@shoalcreeksucculents.com> wrote: > I have a couple new flowers and I would like to confirm the > identities, if anyone has experience with this genus. Neither of these > are listed on the Wiki. > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat, 29 Mar 2014 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Pseudiris speciosa Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 11:27:31 -0500 Dear PBSers, I am looking for an additional information about this new species in the Iridaceae. Does any know if it is in cultivation or if seeds are available? http://researcharchive.calacademy.org/research/scipubs/pdfs/v59/proccas_v59_n19.pdf Thanks Jim W. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 29 Mar 2014 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: How long do Fritillaria agrestis blooms last? Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 11:25:12 -0700 When Fritillaria agrestis begins to flower, as it has just done here (stinking out the bulb house), you can expect to see flowers in good condition for about two weeks -- perhaps more if the weather is cool and wet, which it probably isn't in the plant's native habitat in the central California Coast Range. The flowers are predominantly green and smell like dog droppings, the only American species that has a pronounced unpleasant scent. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 07:12 PM 3/28/2014, you wrote: >David R. asks, via the contact form, > >"Hi, I'm wondering how long Fritillarias bloom? If I found Fritillaria >agrestis in bloom now, how long will the blooms last if I want to >bring my friend to see them? Thanks a bunch! David" > >The wiki shows photos taken in March >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/NorthAmericanFritillarias#agrestis >and 'Bulbs of North America' gives a bloom time of mid-March to mid- >April so now is a good time to go see these in the wild. > >Please respond to the list and David will view the answers here. > >- Gastil >_______________________________________________ From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Sat, 29 Mar 2014 13:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <000c01cf4b89$e28b0c80$a7a12580$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Albuca glauca/flaccida Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 15:02:59 -0500 Since we are on the topic of items not on the Wiki; here are 2 more that are missing. I would like to confirm IDs. I know one of them was fragrant, perhaps both. Thanks again.. Albuca glauca http://i57.servimg.com/u/f57/17/18/52/30/2805_g10.jpg http://i57.servimg.com/u/f57/17/18/52/30/280510.jpg http://i57.servimg.com/u/f57/17/18/52/30/2805a10.jpg Albuca flaccida http://i57.servimg.com/u/f57/17/18/52/30/296810.jpg From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sat, 29 Mar 2014 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1396124716.84873.YahooMailNeo@web121305.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: (no subject) Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 13:25:16 -0700 (PDT) Suddenly it's spring here - and it's about time! In addition to snowdrops, tommies and other early crocus sorts, about a dozen sorts of iris are blooming (unguicularis, lazica, tuberosa and maybe nine reticulate sorts), also blooming are Colchicum hungaricum and the first frit of the year here, Fritillaria stenanthera. Overnight, foliage of various Erythronium has appeared and spread out flat on the surface, and some of them blend well with the bark mulch on their bed.  But the real fun is examining all of the emerging sprouts, seeing which ones are particularly fat and promising,  and counting my chickens before they hatch (or get nibbled by the rabbits). The season here is about two weeks late: I finally planted the first peas only yesterday.  Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where a wood frog has been calling from the garden pond and the first Magnolia stellata flowers are opening as I type.  From pelarg@aol.com Sat, 29 Mar 2014 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <8D119AFD2C918C7-261C-75A6@webmail-m262.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Kniphofia multiflora Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 17:48:58 -0400 (EDT) While on the topic of Kniphofia I was wondering has anyone ever had success germinating K. multiflora? I have gotten orange and white forms from Silverhill and never had success getting them to germinate, whereas other kniphofias are usually not a problem. Is there something special this species requires or does the seed need to be inordinately fresh? Also has anyone tried it in cold winter climates? As for knips in NY after this beastly winter, K northiae took a beating but they are alive, the centers are green or side shoot where present but leaves were browned back, K hirsuta ,K. brevifolia , and caulescens look fine, others have foliage that died back (pauciflora, triangularis, tysonii, and others) but should, I hope, regrow. Hybrids (one from the Shenandoah valley, and seed grown ones from Chilterns) seem okay with dieback. Did dig in the garden the other day and found a Crinum bulbispermum bulb that appears to be fine. Ernie DeMarie Briarcliff Manor NY watching the drizzle outside, more exciting bulbs blooming under lights in the garage right now, eg Sparaxis elagans, Gladiolus aurea, G tristis, and G. splendens, Hesperantha oligantha, a white Hesperathus received as H vaginata but is not, Babiana villosa red, Geisshorhiza inflexa, and an ugly little Sparaxis sp. of the type that used to be synnotia with little white and yellow fls. Also Pelargonium incrassatum and a rather wishy washy form of lobatum. -----Original Message----- From: Ellen Hornig To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Sat, Mar 29, 2014 10:42 am Subject: Re: [pbs] re Kniphofia typhoides Hi, Ernie et al - Yes, K. typhoides did do quite well in Oswego - I think I left that off my list, along with K. baurii, some forms of K. triangularis, and K. ichopensis (that one was lovely, but iffy). At some point I removed all the K. typhoides, having satisfied myself that it would grow, because although the bees sleeping on it on cold mornings made a sweet picture, it was not, if truth be told, especially attractive. I was top-dressing the front garden here (Shrewsbury, MA) with composted manure yesterday, and found that the little K. caulescens seedlings I set out last fall looked just fine - happiness! That one will always be a thrill to grow. These were from NARGS seed, and I don't know whether or not they'll turn out to be good blue ones - so if anyone out there has seeds of a really blue form going to waste, I would be very grateful to have a pinch. Just a thought! Ellen From hornig@oswego.edu Sat, 29 Mar 2014 16:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Kniphofia multiflora Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 18:19:05 -0400 Ernie - I had a few long-lived plants of K. multiflora in Oswego, and they must have been grown from Silverhill seeds. Most years they froze before they could bloom, but in one or two memorable years they did bloom successfully, and I would say it was worth every square inch of ground that they occupied in the off years. They were the orange-to-gold form. Ellen On Sat, Mar 29, 2014 at 5:48 PM, wrote: > > While on the topic of Kniphofia I was wondering has anyone ever had > success germinating K. multiflora? I have gotten orange and white forms > from Silverhill and never had success getting them to germinate, whereas > other kniphofias are usually not a problem. Is there something special > this species requires or does the seed need to be inordinately fresh? Also > has anyone tried it in cold winter climates? > As for knips in NY after this beastly winter, K northiae took a beating > but they are alive, the centers are green or side shoot where present but > leaves were browned back, K hirsuta ,K. brevifolia , and caulescens look > fine, others have foliage that died back (pauciflora, triangularis, > tysonii, and others) but should, I hope, regrow. Hybrids (one from the > Shenandoah valley, and seed grown ones from Chilterns) seem okay with > dieback. Did dig in the garden the other day and found a Crinum > bulbispermum bulb that appears to be fine. > > Ernie DeMarie > > Briarcliff Manor NY watching the drizzle outside, more exciting bulbs > blooming under lights in the garage right now, eg Sparaxis elagans, > Gladiolus aurea, G tristis, and G. splendens, Hesperantha oligantha, a > white Hesperathus received as H vaginata but is not, Babiana villosa red, > Geisshorhiza inflexa, and an ugly little Sparaxis sp. of the type that used > to be synnotia with little white and yellow fls. Also Pelargonium > incrassatum and a rather wishy washy form of lobatum. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ellen Hornig > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Sat, Mar 29, 2014 10:42 am > Subject: Re: [pbs] re Kniphofia typhoides > > > Hi, Ernie et al - Yes, K. typhoides did do quite well in Oswego - I think I > left that off my list, along with K. baurii, some forms of K. triangularis, > and K. ichopensis (that one was lovely, but iffy). At some point I removed > all the K. typhoides, having satisfied myself that it would grow, because > although the bees sleeping on it on cold mornings made a sweet picture, it > was not, if truth be told, especially attractive. > > I was top-dressing the front garden here (Shrewsbury, MA) with composted > manure yesterday, and found that the little K. caulescens seedlings I set > out last fall looked just fine - happiness! That one will always be a > thrill to grow. These were from NARGS seed, and I don't know whether or > not they'll turn out to be good blue ones - so if anyone out there has > seeds of a really blue form going to waste, I would be very grateful to > have a pinch. Just a thought! > > Ellen > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From tim@gingerwoodnursery.com Sat, 29 Mar 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tim Chapman Subject: Kniphofia multiflora Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 20:53:16 -0500 Regarding K multiflora, I've tried it several times and only on the last attempt did I get some to germinate. Most of the other species I've tried from Silverhill have been very easy to germinate and in general very easy to grow. I'm not sure what causes the low germination vs other species. Could have special some requirements different than the others ? Tim Chapman From jwickham@sbcglobal.net Sat, 29 Mar 2014 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1396146771.98253.YahooMailNeo@web185306.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: John Wickham Subject: Fragrant Watsonia Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 19:32:51 -0700 (PDT) A kind, elderly lady in my neighborhood gave me a few Watsonia corms from her garden last summer. They're blooming now and are kind of great...about 3 feet tall, white flowers, and very fragrant. A quick search led me to Watsonia marginata, but the flowers on W. marginata seems much more densely packed than this one. Another suggestion that came up was Watsonia borbonica and the Wiki mentions that a selection called 'Ardern's White' has been grown in southern California for many years. So...any ideas on how to identify this plant? From pelarg@aol.com Sat, 29 Mar 2014 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <8D119D7A5F8CC7A-261C-80BA@webmail-m262.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Kniphofia multiflora Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 22:34:03 -0400 (EDT) Thanks Ellen for the info, I will keep trying to get them to germinate. Maybe they need more cold to germinate or something else than the others, its strange, most other spp germinate easily at moderately coolish to intermediate temps. Down here the falls are longer than upstate so if I can ever get them going they should be magnificent here. Ernie -----Original Message----- From: Ellen Hornig To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Sat, Mar 29, 2014 6:19 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] re Kniphofia multiflora Ernie - I had a few long-lived plants of K. multiflora in Oswego, and they must have been grown from Silverhill seeds. Most years they froze before they could bloom, but in one or two memorable years they did bloom successfully, and I would say it was worth every square inch of ground that they occupied in the off years. They were the orange-to-gold form. Ellen On Sat, Mar 29, 2014 at 5:48 PM, wrote: > > While on the topic of Kniphofia I was wondering has anyone ever had > success germinating K. multiflora? I have gotten orange and white forms > from Silverhill and never had success getting them to germinate, whereas > other kniphofias are usually not a problem. Is there something special > this species requires or does the seed need to be inordinately fresh? Also > has anyone tried it in cold winter climates? > As for knips in NY after this beastly winter, K northiae took a beating > but they are alive, the centers are green or side shoot where present but > leaves were browned back, K hirsuta ,K. brevifolia , and caulescens look > fine, others have foliage that died back (pauciflora, triangularis, > tysonii, and others) but should, I hope, regrow. Hybrids (one from the > Shenandoah valley, and seed grown ones from Chilterns) seem okay with > dieback. Did dig in the garden the other day and found a Crinum > bulbispermum bulb that appears to be fine. > > Ernie DeMarie > > Briarcliff Manor NY watching the drizzle outside, more exciting bulbs > blooming under lights in the garage right now, eg Sparaxis elagans, > Gladiolus aurea, G tristis, and G. splendens, Hesperantha oligantha, a > white Hesperathus received as H vaginata but is not, Babiana villosa red, > Geisshorhiza inflexa, and an ugly little Sparaxis sp. of the type that used > to be synnotia with little white and yellow fls. Also Pelargonium > incrassatum and a rather wishy washy form of lobatum. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ellen Hornig > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Sat, Mar 29, 2014 10:42 am > Subject: Re: [pbs] re Kniphofia typhoides > > > Hi, Ernie et al - Yes, K. typhoides did do quite well in Oswego - I think I > left that off my list, along with K. baurii, some forms of K. triangularis, > and K. ichopensis (that one was lovely, but iffy). At some point I removed > all the K. typhoides, having satisfied myself that it would grow, because > although the bees sleeping on it on cold mornings made a sweet picture, it > was not, if truth be told, especially attractive. > > I was top-dressing the front garden here (Shrewsbury, MA) with composted > manure yesterday, and found that the little K. caulescens seedlings I set > out last fall looked just fine - happiness! That one will always be a > thrill to grow. These were from NARGS seed, and I don't know whether or > not they'll turn out to be good blue ones - so if anyone out there has > seeds of a really blue form going to waste, I would be very grateful to > have a pinch. Just a thought! > > Ellen > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat, 29 Mar 2014 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Fragrant Watsonia Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2014 02:34:54 +0000 Watsonia borbonica 'ardernei' is widely grown all over the world. Well branched inflorescence. From hornig@oswego.edu Sun, 30 Mar 2014 09:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Kniphofia multiflora Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2014 12:09:00 -0400 My guess, and that's all it is, is that as with many plants from damp environments, the seeds are short-lived and need to be sown fresh - that would account for inviable seed. It doesn't grow in the wild in very cold places, and in any case winters are dry; so it would be unusual for it to need stratification (few plants from the Eastern Cape do). I was always surprised that mine lived in Oswego. They did die 'way back, and came up from deep underground; but they did so reliably and repeatedly, and they did maintain blooming size. They also lived in a catch basin that intercepted runoff coming down hill (but released it once it got a few inches deep). My North Hill hybrid primulas (mixed candelabra types) did very well there, until the hot summer sun hit them, so that should be an indicator. Ellen On Sat, Mar 29, 2014 at 10:34 PM, wrote: > > Thanks Ellen for the info, I will keep trying to get them to germinate. > Maybe they need more cold to germinate or something else than the others, > its strange, most other spp germinate easily at moderately coolish to > intermediate temps. Down here the falls are longer than upstate so if I > can ever get them going they should be magnificent here. > > Ernie > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ellen Hornig > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Sat, Mar 29, 2014 6:19 pm > Subject: Re: [pbs] re Kniphofia multiflora > > > Ernie - I had a few long-lived plants of K. multiflora in Oswego, and they > must have been grown from Silverhill seeds. Most years they froze before > they could bloom, but in one or two memorable years they did bloom > successfully, and I would say it was worth every square inch of ground that > they occupied in the off years. They were the orange-to-gold form. > > Ellen > > > On Sat, Mar 29, 2014 at 5:48 PM, wrote: > > > > > While on the topic of Kniphofia I was wondering has anyone ever had > > success germinating K. multiflora? I have gotten orange and white forms > > from Silverhill and never had success getting them to germinate, whereas > > other kniphofias are usually not a problem. Is there something special > > this species requires or does the seed need to be inordinately fresh? > Also > > has anyone tried it in cold winter climates? > > As for knips in NY after this beastly winter, K northiae took a beating > > but they are alive, the centers are green or side shoot where present but > > leaves were browned back, K hirsuta ,K. brevifolia , and caulescens look > > fine, others have foliage that died back (pauciflora, triangularis, > > tysonii, and others) but should, I hope, regrow. Hybrids (one from the > > Shenandoah valley, and seed grown ones from Chilterns) seem okay with > > dieback. Did dig in the garden the other day and found a Crinum > > bulbispermum bulb that appears to be fine. > > > > Ernie DeMarie > > > > Briarcliff Manor NY watching the drizzle outside, more exciting bulbs > > blooming under lights in the garage right now, eg Sparaxis elagans, > > Gladiolus aurea, G tristis, and G. splendens, Hesperantha oligantha, a > > white Hesperathus received as H vaginata but is not, Babiana villosa red, > > Geisshorhiza inflexa, and an ugly little Sparaxis sp. of the type that > used > > to be synnotia with little white and yellow fls. Also Pelargonium > > incrassatum and a rather wishy washy form of lobatum. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Ellen Hornig > > To: Pacific Bulb Society > > Sent: Sat, Mar 29, 2014 10:42 am > > Subject: Re: [pbs] re Kniphofia typhoides > > > > > > Hi, Ernie et al - Yes, K. typhoides did do quite well in Oswego - I > think I > > left that off my list, along with K. baurii, some forms of K. > triangularis, > > and K. ichopensis (that one was lovely, but iffy). At some point I > removed > > all the K. typhoides, having satisfied myself that it would grow, because > > although the bees sleeping on it on cold mornings made a sweet picture, > it > > was not, if truth be told, especially attractive. > > > > I was top-dressing the front garden here (Shrewsbury, MA) with composted > > manure yesterday, and found that the little K. caulescens seedlings I set > > out last fall looked just fine - happiness! That one will always be a > > thrill to grow. These were from NARGS seed, and I don't know whether or > > not they'll turn out to be good blue ones - so if anyone out there has > > seeds of a really blue form going to waste, I would be very grateful to > > have a pinch. Just a thought! > > > > Ellen > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > > -- > Ellen Hornig > 212 Grafton St > Shrewsbury MA 01545 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From tom@yfelin.plus.com Sun, 30 Mar 2014 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1396221375.2517.12.camel@tom-G31M-ES2L> From: Tom Brown Subject: Tropaeolum seed Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2014 00:16:15 +0100 Hello All. I wrote a while ago about embarking on a painting project of 8 / 10 members of the genus tropaeolum. Can anyone suggest possible sources for seed of the following species...T.nubigenum; T. incisum; T.sessilifolium; T. hookerianum ssp. austropurpureum. As I am in Wales UK sources on the European side of the Atlantic would be preferable but any location would be appreciated. Tom Brown From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 31 Mar 2014 01:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Tropaeolum seed Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2014 09:12:34 +0100 Try Aberconwy nurseries, Bob Brown, Edrom, Pottertons Peter (UK) On 31 March 2014 00:16, Tom Brown wrote: > Hello All. I wrote a while ago about embarking on a painting project of > 8 / 10 members of the genus tropaeolum. Can anyone suggest possible > sources for seed of the following species...T.nubigenum; T. incisum; > T.sessilifolium; T. hookerianum ssp. austropurpureum. > As I am in Wales UK sources on the European side of the Atlantic would > be preferable but any location would be appreciated. > > Tom Brown > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 31 Mar 2014 02:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: request for source for Disa tubers or in vitro plants Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2014 09:40:52 +0100 I believe that there is a firm called Orchid Alchemy in England On 23 March 2014 17:09, M. Gastil-Buhl wrote: > Bertrand Lerot of Belgium has written to PBS via our contact form. > > Hello, I'm from Belgium. I grow some terrestrial orchids and the Disa > species is very lovely flowers. I've D. uniflora and D. aurata as species > in growing. I'm looking for other Disa species but there are difficult to > find. Can you tell me where I can find tuber to sell of this genera? Thank > you so much Nice regards Bertrand > > He has already searched the PBS Sources page but only seeds are listed. > > Please reply directly to: > bertrandlerot@yahoo.fr > (bertrandlerot at yahoo.fr) > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >