Thanks Ken i moved the lachs to the basement floor where it is a little cooler (50F night, 63F day) and farther from the hot T-5 lights, so they should not get so hot and last longer. i was hoping that i could grow Lachs without a greenhouse and enjoy them in the winter vs. keeping them in the cold frame which was buried under 2 feet snow this past winter. This winter was colder than recent winter an they may not have survived, however, Polyexena ensifoilia in the cold frame under 0.5-2 feet of snow did survive with outside temps of below minus 20F (-30C) many times and 2 -3 months of consistent temps below 20F (-7C). Rimmer On Mar 19, 2014, at 11:23 AM, Ken <kjblack@pacbell.net> wrote: > Any thoughts on moving such to locations with less solar radiation ... to attempt to keep leaves of these winter growers going a bit longer (with the thought they'll put more energy into the bulbs.) I've done this with some of the winter-growing amaryllids and think it does help. For example, this year, my Brunsvigia and hybrid Amaryllid seedlings located in full sun have already turned yellow early, I think due to our unusually warm winter with much above average bright, sunny days (even though I've maintained a watering regimen.) Those I located to bright shade, earlier in late January and early February, are still green and I assume continue to photosynthesize. With such treatment along with care not to overwater ... I've kept foliage green for an additional 1-3 months. > Ken Blackford > San Diego > > > ________________________________ > From: Rimmer <oldtulips@gmail.com> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2014 8:03 AM > Subject: [pbs] Lachenalia care post flowering > > > > In response to Peter’s comments on keeping the hyacinths growing as long as possible to build up the bulbs, i was wondering what is recommended for Lachenalia now that many have finished flowering. These are watered abut once every 10 days more or less when the pots are on the light side. but in general these are quite dry standing on 1”of sand. > > I keep the plant tops about 6- 8” below T-5 lights set for 16 hrs, day temps up to 75F (24C) , nights down to 55F (12C) with a 6” rotating fan to cool off and dry out. > > L. aloides var. quadricolor -bloomed in Feb and the flower is now past but the foliage still stands upright and looks green and firm. > > L. aloides var. unicolor (pallida)-purple blomed in late Feb and the tip is still showing the last flower color but the leaves are turing yellow and limp- several of the non blooming bulbs had there leaves turn red- -black and rotted away in the 4.5” pot in the winter. > http://flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/… > > L. mutabilis, yellow / electric blue top - the flower has faded but the foliage still stands upright and looks green. > http://flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/… > > L. aloides var. vanzyliae is in bloom now > http://flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/… > > L. liliflora blooming now > http://flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/… > > Thank you for your help > > Rimmer > SE Michigan > finally above freezing with rain today > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/