Proboscidea althaeifolia (Unicorn Plant/Devils claw)

Leo A. Martin leo@possi.org
Mon, 14 Jul 2008 15:50:30 PDT
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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: Summer treatment of Nerine sarniensis (J.E. Shields)
>    2. Re: Pancratium (ang.por@alice.it)
>    3. Re: Summer treatment of Nerine sarniensis (J.E. Shields)
>    4. Re: Summer treatment of Nerine sarniensis (Lee Poulsen)
>    5. R: pbs Digest, Vol 66, Issue 8 (ang.por@alice.it)
>    6. Help Cultivate the Eastern Cactus & Succulent Conference!
>       (James Waddick)
>    7. Re: Summer treatment of Nerine sarniensis (MATT MATTUS)
>    8. >       (Donald Barnett)
>    9. Re: Proboscidea althaeifolia (Unicorn Plant/Devils claw)
>       (Eugene Zielinski)
>   10. Fritillaria imperialis (James Waddick)
>   11. Re: Fritillaria imperialis (Lauw de Jager)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 14:05:20 -0400
> From: "J.E. Shields" <jshields@indy.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Summer treatment of Nerine sarniensis
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20080711135743.02884168@pop.indy.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> Anyone who ordered Nerine bulbs from Nick de Rothschild will need to get
> them through summer in good health, as those sarniensis hybrids are all
> winter growing, as far as I know.
>
> I've summered sarniensis hybrids with limited success for many
> years.  Leaving the bulbs in the greenhouse over summer, as I do for
> Haemanthus and Lachenalia, is not good.  As the others reported, the bulbs
> dry up and barely survive.
>
> One summer they sat outdoors under a table, getting some rain but not full
> exposure, and did very well.  Another summer outdoors, wetter, did several
> of them in.
>
> This year, I am summering the sarniensis hybrids in my basement.  I guess
> I
> should probably spritz them lightly with water once or twice before autumn
> comes.
>
> Jim Shields
> in central Indiana (USA)
>
>
> At 09:59 AM 7/11/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>>AH,
>>This is a great topic.  I, also water my Nerines in the summer, lightly.
>>Certainly, no fertilizer, but grow all Nerines in clay pots, so  they do
>> NOT
>>stay wet. Works for me.
>>Clayton
>
> *************************************************
> Jim Shields             USDA Zone 5             Shields Gardens, Ltd.
> P.O. Box 92              WWW:    http://www.shieldsgardens.com/
> Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA
> Tel. ++1-317-867-3344     or      toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 20:49:12 +0200
> From: <ang.por@alice.it>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Pancratium
> To: <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID:
> 	<DAEBCA2255C7414DB7588D8D8EE1DE6104A28BD5@FBCMST06V01.fbc.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> Pancratium illyricum should be the hardiest of the genus, it growing cycle
> is quite short indeed, leafing out in late March (here in zone 9b) and
> withering in late June, so the bulbs don't increase so much ever year. I
> have raised many from seed and after some years they are still very small.
> Anyway, even P. matitimum and canariense are quite slow from seed.
>
> Angelo Porcelli
> Apulia - south of Italy
>
> Alice Messenger ;-) chatti anche con gli amici di Windows Live Messenger e
> tutti i telefonini TIM!
> <http://maileservizi.alice.it/alice_messenger/…>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 14:49:41 -0400
> From: "J.E. Shields" <jshields@indy.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Summer treatment of Nerine sarniensis
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20080711141141.039fef48@pop.indy.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> I forgot to mention that Nick recommends using fertilizers that have no
> nitrogen in them.  Sir Peter Smithers said the same thing.  So I made up
> my
> own Nerine Fertilizer:  equal partsd b y weight of Potassium sulfate
> [K2SO4] and of Dibasic Potassium Phosphate [K2HPO4] which gives a
> fertilizer with N-P-K of about 0 - (15 to 23) - (35 to 40) depending on
> whether you use the USA or the metric ratios.
>
> Nitrogen causes all but the thread-leaf Nerine species to get sick.  The
> sick plants look like they have a virus infection, but I have no idea what
> the actual problem is.
>
> Jim Shields
>
>
>
> *************************************************
> Jim Shields             USDA Zone 5             Shields Gardens, Ltd.
> P.O. Box 92              WWW:    http://www.shieldsgardens.com/
> Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA
> Tel. ++1-317-867-3344     or      toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 11:55:20 -0700
> From: Lee Poulsen <wpoulsen@pacbell.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Summer treatment of Nerine sarniensis
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <4877AC98.7090506@pacbell.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Nerine sarniensis are sometimes called "Guernsey Lilies" because of a
> bunch of them that naturalized on the island of Guernsey after a
> shipwreck several centuries ago.
>
> I couldn't find the rainfall pattern for Guernsey, but here is the
> monthly rainfall data for Cherbourg, France, which is nearby. I seems
> quite a bit of rain can fall even in the summertime. The average
> temperature at the Guernsey airport is very mild as well. The hottest
> average daily temperature is only about 61?F/16?C during July and August.
>
> --Lee Poulsen
> Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a
>
> Average Monthly Rainfall, Cherbourg, France:
>      Jan     Feb     Mar     Apr     May     Jun     Jul     Aug
>  Sep     Oct     Nov     Dec     Year
> mm     92.8     69.9     62.8     53.2     49.3     43.4     51.9
>  63.1     74.2    108.9    117.4    111.8    899.3
> inches    3.7    2.8    2.5    2.1    1.9    1.7    2.0    2.5    2.9
> 4.3    4.6    4.4    35.4
>
>
> Clayton3120 wrote:
>> AH,
>> This is a great topic.  I, also water my Nerines in the summer, lightly.
>> Certainly, no fertilizer, but grow all Nerines in clay pots, so  they do
>> NOT
>> stay wet. Works for me.
>> Clayton
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 21:06:48 +0200
> From: <ang.por@alice.it>
> Subject: [pbs] R: pbs Digest, Vol 66, Issue 8
> To: <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID:
> 	<DAEBCA2255C7414DB7588D8D8EE1DE6104A28BD6@FBCMST06V01.fbc.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yes Mary Sue, I refer right to that batch of seeds.  The seedlings have
> grown well and have erect coaling leaves
>
> Angelo Porcelli
>
> ****************
> Rhoda and Cameron gave away seeds of this plant to our group in 2004. Any
> of you wish to report how your plants are doing?
>
> Mary Sue
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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>
> End of pbs Digest, Vol 66, Issue 8
> **********************************
>
>
> Alice Messenger ;-) chatti anche con gli amici di Windows Live Messenger e
> tutti i telefonini TIM!
> <http://maileservizi.alice.it/alice_messenger/…>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 14:15:54 -0500
> From: James Waddick <jwaddick@kc.rr.com>
> Subject: [pbs] Help Cultivate the Eastern Cactus & Succulent
> 	Conference!
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <p0624082ec49d608e50f4@[192.168.1.101]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
> Dear PBS Friends,
> 	I am sort of surprised that there has been response or
> comments about this plea for involvement.
> 	I don't know anything about this group, but membership groups
> of all kinds (including PBS?) are in trouble these days. Whether
> local garden clubs, national societies and activities of all sorts.
>
> 	I know that if I were any bit closer to MA, I'd consider
> signing up and going.
>
> 	And that is not so hidden plea to consider renewing your
> membership and involvement in PBS.
>
> 	Recently I was at a bigger garden center and found two
> interesting bulbs in the rows of pots of labelled cacti and
> succulents. One was an Ornithgalum with tufts of grassy  thin leaves
> coming out of exposed bulbs, and the other was a long emergent
> exposed bulb, but I can't recall the genus. A familiar name, but an
> odd plant.
>
> 		Best	Jim W.
>
>>Help Cultivate the 16th Eastern Cactus & Succulent Conference *- will
>> there
>>be a 17th ?!?*
>>
>>The 16th Eastern Cactus & Succulent Conference,  is planned for the
>> weekend
>>of Aug. 15 to 17, 2008 at the Radisson Hotel in Chelmsford,
>> Massachusetts.
>>
>>Please visit our Conference website, http://www.succulentplants.info/, for more
>>information about this great event. Those of you interested in South
>> African
>>bulbs take note of some of the speakers below who are very knowledgeable
>> on
>>the subject. Also of note - at our specimen auction we will have a
>>collection of hard to get Gethyllis bulbs - at least 6 different species.
>
> --
> Dr. James W. Waddick
> 8871 NW Brostrom Rd.
> Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711
> USA
> Ph.    816-746-1949
> Zone 5 Record low -23F
> 	Summer 100F +
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2008 16:18:06 -0400
> From: MATT MATTUS <mmattus@charter.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Summer treatment of Nerine sarniensis
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <C49D383E.4D51%mmattus@charter.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="US-ASCII"
>
>
> I continue to water my Nerine sarniensis only slight'y, during the summer.
> Actually, it might better be said that I run the hose overthem two or
> three
> time during the summer. Hardly an expert, I did research a little bit by
> reading some horticultural research papers a few years ago from Acta
> horticulturae and switched my routine based on what commercial growers
> we're
> discovering about these Amaryllid's which included the fact that they form
> staged flower buds two or three years in advance, deep inside the bulb,
> and
> that they actually have quite active root growth in the summer, contrary
> to
> the belief that they want to 'go dormant', the roots seem to grow more in
> this time, and I think that my bulbs actually become more turgid when
> provided some rain water during the hot summer, rather than allowing the
> pots to dry out.
>
> Last year, Mary Sue posted this fabulous article by Mr. Sloan, and it was
> very helpful.
>
> Since I have had a bit of luck with the Nerine sarniensis crosses I have,
> I
> will share briefly, what I do.
>
> Soil - Pro Mix ( a commercial peat/Perlite based potting mix) and Gravel
> 50/50 is the ratio. Lately, for gravel, I have been using a product called
> Espoma Soil Perfector, which I love for alpines and other South African
> bulbs.
> Pots -  6 inch square plastic pots
> I begin watering around September 1, or the first weekend that we in New
> England receive a Canadian cold front, signaling the end of summer.
> I await for buds, which will show by the end of the month, and by
> mid-October, many will be in peak bloom.
>
> I do fertilize, but carefully, and only about once a month with only rain
> water, or I move the pots outside to enjoy the late summer and early
> autumn
> thunderstorms. After that, until blooming, they get a weak 10.10.10 at
> first, and later in the year, from February - May, with a 0.0.10, or a
> 0.6.10. These are the analysis of some organic fertilizers for Orchids or
> Tomatoes, or root-boost/Bloom products, really, it's just a little of
> whatever I can get which is low in Nitrogen. I try to stay away from salt
> and soluable treatments.
>
> The foliage dies around late May for me, and I used to move the pots up
> onto
> a wire bench, where summer temps can reach 110 degrees F, ( like this
> year)
> but just recently moved them onto a slightly  damp sand bed, where the
> cyclamen spend the winter, It is slightly damp, and then, I splash them
> slightly.
>
> The roots seem to like to delve deeper, into the damp sand bed, perhaps
> looking for water, so I treat these Nerine in the same way one would treat
> Cyclamen graecum, who are sharing this space....which also seem to need
> water during the summer dormancy, something I learned from John Lonsdale
> when I complained that my C. graecum never seemed to survive the summer in
> the greenhouse, dry.
>
> I have resisted repoting these pots on, from the 6" square plastic, and I
> could use some advice. Four years ago, I repotted most of my Nerine up a
> few
> sizes, on from the 3 inch clay pots which I used to grow them in ( as
> advised by Sir Peter Smithers). One year I tried 6 inch plastic pots, and
> used simply Pro Mix potting soil, and kept a few dozen  plants in a plunge
> bed which was kept damp, and the result were so promising, that the
> following year, I converted most of my collection over.
>
> Now, my collection is not large, only about 70 pots, but these 6 inch pots
> are not bulging, and many have four or five mature bulbs in them. Part of
> me
> want to pot them up into larger pots, since I do have one in a 12 inch
> pan,
> and it has magnificent foliage, but rarely blooms. I may break up some and
> repot them individually again, and then I may keep some pot-bound.
>
> If anyone has any advice, please let me know. My flowering rate did
> improve
> with the addition of a little water in the summer, to nearly 80% last
> year.
> But who knows, this year, I have been lazy, and it has been hotter than
> usual, so many bulbs are actually smaller. But I did start splashing some
> water this week, so we shall see!
>
> Perhaps the biggest risk will be the heating costs for this coming winter.
> I
> just had my gas tank filled for the greenhouse, and it is nearly twice
> what
> it cost to fill in March!
>
> Matt Mattus
>
> Worcester, Massachusetts
> USA
>
> Zone 5B-ish
>
>
> On 7/11/08 12:59 PM, "Clayton3120" <Clayton3120@cablespeed.com> wrote:
>
>> AH,
>> This is a great topic.  I, also water my Nerines in the summer, lightly.
>> Certainly, no fertilizer, but grow all Nerines in clay pots, so  they do
>> NOT
>> stay wet. Works for me.
>> Clayton
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> pbs mailing list
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>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
On Fri, 11 Jul 2008
Donald Barnett
wrote

> I have grown many of the Annual Proboscidea and was fortunate
> to collect some seed of Perennial Proboscidea althaeifolia.
> I have already tried about 10 seeds and after a month ive
> given up. I can germ Proboscidea parviflora & Proboscidea
> louisianica easily but not Proboscidea althaeifolia. Can
> anyone give me some advice?

Keep watering and wait. The whole family (Pedaliaceae) is famous for
taking sometimes years to sprout. Don't throw out the pot, or, if you
planted them in the ground, don't disturb the ground.

I set some fruits of our local Sonoran Desert Proboscidea on a bench on my
patio one fall (can't recall the species just now.) Several fruits fell
apart that winter and dropped seeds which got swept into the adjacent rose
bed. That was four years ago, and every year a few more come up.

Leo Martin
Phoenix Arizona USA


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