From Zonneveld@rulbim.leidenuniv.nl Wed Mar 1 04:01:04 2006 Message-Id: <440570D8.30686.2016A9@localhost> From: "zonneveld" Subject: Narcissus species hybrids Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 10:00:56 +0100 I think it would be nice to have a scheme that shows what species of narcissus can be crossed and which of these hybrids is fertile. This is not only useful for breeders but might also show relationships. I am willing to make such a scheme, the only thing missing is data! Maybe I can give one parent at a time and maybe you are so kind to fill it in. Lets start with a simple on. What species can be crossed with N cavanillesii ( I know of serotinus) Ben J.M.Zonneveld Institute of Biology,Leiden University, Clusius lab Wassenaarse weg 64, 2333 AL Leiden, The Netherlands Zonneveld@rulbim.Leidenuniv.NL Fax: +31-71-5274999. min temp -10C (15F) From limelite-1@worldnet.att.net Thu Mar 2 17:20:12 2006 Message-Id: <18be01c63e47$7d317070$6600a8c0@p4h3i9> From: "mark n suze" Subject: Hello...about Hypoxis Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2006 17:20:17 -0500 Hello fellow bulb growers! I've belonged to this great group for some-time now, and have greatly enjoyed and learned much from the posts here, yet have had nothing to say till now... I have been growing the Florida native Hypoxis juncea for some time. Grown from plants from So. Lee county which i collected during land-clearing operations which are all too common here. I have been carefully hand-pollinating and collecting seeds from them for a while.....they seem to take to captivity readily, flowering almost continuously in pots that are kept well fed and wet. I love them.... ;~) Anyway, i have seeds to give away,... if anyone has been looking to grow this very kewl tiny species, endemic to the extreme S.E. states of the US., lemme know. I'd be happy to send some off. contact me at limelite-1@worldnet.att.net If a lot of folks want them, it'll have to be 1st come 1st serve, tho i am able to collect seeds almost daily... Oh, almost forgot..i have baby bulbils or bulblets or what-ever from my Hippeastrum puniceum which was grown from collected seeds and is spectacular. Have a dozen or so to send-off....FYI Blessings mark (in SW Florida) From blweintraub1@earthlink.net Thu Mar 2 18:20:18 2006 Message-Id: <11718581.1141341618440.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: blweintraub1@earthlink.net Subject: Hypoxis juncea Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2006 16:20:18 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Anyone try this plant in USDA zones 4, 5, or 6? Barbara Weintraub Santa Fe, NM at 6700' or so From donhackenberry@acsworld.com Thu Mar 2 20:05:23 2006 Message-Id: <002301c63e5e$a04a2720$5c574845@oemcomputer> From: "Don Hackenberry" Subject: Hypoxis Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2006 20:05:54 -0500 Dear Mark and All, It's been on my mind for some years, tried crosspollinating with toothpicks, but never got to first base: wonder if it's possible to cross Hypoxis hirsuta and Rhodohypoxis baurii? The hoped for result is something like a slightly hardier Rhodohypoxis. Best, Don From jshields@indy.net Fri Mar 3 08:25:17 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060303082055.00b1aff0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Hypoxis Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 08:25:19 -0500 Don, Mark and all, Rhodohypoxis baurii is supposed to be somewhat hardy, and we have cold-hardy native Hypoxis, so breeding hardy, multicolored hybrids would be a nice idea. A South African Hypoxis I have sets seeds all by itself every summer, blooming in a pot on my deck. These seeds appear in the pots around its pot from time to time as seedlings. Are Hypoxis a bit on the weedy side? I winter this Hypoxis in its pot, dry under a bench in the greenhouse. I tried one of its siblings in the rock garden over winter -- it did not survive. Jim Shields in central Indiana At 08:05 PM 3/2/2006 -0500, you wrote: >Dear Mark and All, > > It's been on my mind for some years, tried crosspollinating with >toothpicks, but never got to first base: wonder if it's possible to cross >Hypoxis hirsuta and Rhodohypoxis baurii? The hoped for result is something >like a slightly hardier Rhodohypoxis. > >Best, > >Don > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From hornig@usadatanet.net Fri Mar 3 09:00:08 2006 Message-Id: <380-22006353135952669@M2W055.mail2web.com> From: "hornig@usadatanet.net" Subject: Hypoxis Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 08:59:52 -0500 Two years ago I gave some Rhodohypoxis baurii to the guy who designs my catalog and website, and he planted them directly in his garden in "downtown" Oswego (so more sheltered than at my more rural hilltop location, and with plenty of snow cover, of course). Last spring he reported that they popped up and bloomed just fine (he has the photo to prove it, and it's on the website). Of course I then put a bunch into my garden, and will be curious to see if any return, as it's been a totally bizarre and atypical winter here. I also set out a few Hypoxis hemerocallidea that I raised from seed, so we shall see whether or not any of them return -also some Cyrtanthus breviflorus, which Aaron Floden reports are hardy for him in Kansas. One never knows - especially here in the snow belt - and it's always fun to try. Ellen Hornig Seneca Hill Perennials Oswego NY USDA zone 5 www.senecahill.com Original Message: ----------------- From: J.E. Shields jshields@indy.net Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 08:25:19 -0500 To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Hypoxis Don, Mark and all, Rhodohypoxis baurii is supposed to be somewhat hardy, and we have cold-hardy native Hypoxis, so breeding hardy, multicolored hybrids would be a nice idea. A South African Hypoxis I have sets seeds all by itself every summer, blooming in a pot on my deck. These seeds appear in the pots around its pot from time to time as seedlings. Are Hypoxis a bit on the weedy side? I winter this Hypoxis in its pot, dry under a bench in the greenhouse. I tried one of its siblings in the rock garden over winter -- it did not survive. Jim Shields in central Indiana At 08:05 PM 3/2/2006 -0500, you wrote: >Dear Mark and All, > > It's been on my mind for some years, tried crosspollinating with >toothpicks, but never got to first base: wonder if it's possible to cross >Hypoxis hirsuta and Rhodohypoxis baurii? The hoped for result is something >like a slightly hardier Rhodohypoxis. > >Best, > >Don > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Mar 3 09:21:09 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Hypoxis x Rhodohypoxis Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 08:21:46 -0600 > It's been on my mind for some years, tried crosspollinating with >toothpicks, but never got to first base: wonder if it's possible to cross >Hypoxis hirsuta and Rhodohypoxis baurii? The hoped for result is something >like a slightly hardier Rhodohypoxis. Dear Don; Jim et all; A few years back in my protected mid-town garden i had some Rhodohypoxis winter over under heavy leaf mulch. They never really perked up the second year or bloomed again before dying the next winter. Hypoxis hirsutus is an uncommon native, and does OK in the open garden. Wish it were a bit more 'weedy'. Pollinating, let alone crossing, either of these genera must be a bear. The flowers and their 'naughty parts' are so tiny to work with. I don't grow Rhodohypoxis any more because of my own situation which is ill suited to wintering them over, but I think they are great plants. If my climate were better I'd aim for sheets of them in every possible site. The thought of hardy hybrids is a terrific dream. Go for it. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri Mar 3 10:16:06 2006 Message-Id: <001a01c63ed5$5fb45dd0$d9002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Rhodohypoxis Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 10:15:56 -0500 I've reported this in the past on this list, but I'll mention it once more. Rhodohypoxis have survived several winters here in the bog trays of my zone 7 garden. They are very vulnerable to rodent predation apparently. My enthusiasm for these plants is somewhat tempered by the fact that from a yard or two away, they look just like garden impatiens. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where meteorological spring has arrived with an overcoat. From msittner@mcn.org Fri Mar 3 11:18:35 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060303073956.02325c48@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Rhodohypoxis Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 07:49:48 -0800 Hi all, I planted out Rhodohypoxis too in my California garden, but it did not survive. It was either too wet in winter or too dry in summer for it. The last several years I've have good results from pots that I moved into the greenhouse and watered occasionally in winter and more often once they came into growth. After I divided them and sent extras to the BX last fall, I repotted what I kept. Recently I noticed what looked liked digging activity in a Rhodohypoxis pot and dumped it out and not much was left, only a few tiny bulbs. So perhaps rodents got them. I didn't check the other pot I have so don't know if I too am now out of the Rhodohypoxis business. My small greenhouse is overfilled so I shall try to cheer myself with the news that it will be less crowded. Many of my experiments with summer rainfall bulbs are unsuccessful. Hardiness as we have discussed before is an elusive concept. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From eob@peak.org Fri Mar 3 11:23:50 2006 Message-Id: From: "Ernie O'Byrne" Subject: Rhodohypoxis Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 08:23:40 -0800 Ernie O'Byrne Northwest Garden Nursery 86813 Central Road Eugene, ORegon 97402 USA USDA Z. 7B -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 7:50 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodohypoxis Hi all, I planted out Rhodohypoxis too in my California garden, but it did not survive. It was either too wet in winter or too dry in summer for it. The last several years I've have good results from pots that I moved into the greenhouse and watered occasionally in winter and more often once they came into growth. After I divided them and sent extras to the BX last fall, I repotted what I kept. Recently I noticed what looked liked digging activity in a Rhodohypoxis pot and dumped it out and not much was left, only a few tiny bulbs. So perhaps rodents got them. I didn't check the other pot I have so don't know if I too am now out of the Rhodohypoxis business. My small greenhouse is overfilled so I shall try to cheer myself with the news that it will be less crowded. Many of my experiments with summer rainfall bulbs are unsuccessful. Hardiness as we have discussed before is an elusive concept. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From eob@peak.org Fri Mar 3 11:30:51 2006 Message-Id: From: "Ernie O'Byrne" Subject: Rhodohypoxis Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 08:30:48 -0800 Sorry, I hit the send button by mistake in the previous message. Mary Sue, the Rhodohypoxis would definitely need extra water in the summer in your climate. They do very well for us, both in pots summered outside with a tray under each pot, and in the garden, unprotected, with our very wet winters (45" ave.) and dry summers. We do, however, water them in the summer in the garden. When we have seen them in Lesotho on Sani Pass, they were growing on a rock substrate with very a thin layer of blackish, peaty soil in water, both flowing and what looked to be very shallow pools, so they were VERY wet while in growth. Why they survive a wet winter, unprotected, I have no idea since it gets so dry in habitat that they have fire danger in the winter in the grasslands. Ernie O'Byrne Northwest Garden Nursery 86813 Central Road Eugene, ORegon 97402 USA USDA Z. 7B -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 7:50 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodohypoxis Hi all, I planted out Rhodohypoxis too in my California garden, but it did not survive. It was either too wet in winter or too dry in summer for it. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Fri Mar 3 12:56:42 2006 Message-Id: <4ba0b4b62810de0b76dd901be20a210d@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Rhodohypoxis Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 09:56:30 -0800 I guess So. Calif. winters are sufficiently less rainy that I can leave my pots of these out all year round. I keep the pots with all my other summer growers where they get watered regularly during the summers and they grow quite well, quickly overflowing 6-inch pots within 2 or 3 years. One year, when we had neither an outside dog or outside cats, I also lost 2-3 pots before I noticed that a rat had discovered them and was methodically eating every bulb in a pot before moving on to the next pot. I moved them to a protected spot and they were fine. Having a dog or cats in the yard that prey on rodents has kept them completely undisturbed. I have a few summer rainfall bulb species that I grow outside that I really love such as Rhodohypoxis and Hippeastrum that I now keep together and try to keep excessive rainfall off of them in winters like last year's and put them on drip sprayers on a timer in the summer, and they do quite well. And it's worth the effort. The problem for me is some of the species that would much rather prefer Florida conditions that I also really want to grow. I have to limit myself to just a few genera of these because I only have so much room in my small unheated greenhouse which simulates Florida or Mexico conditions (summer humidity and reversed rainfall pattern). --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a On Mar 3, 2006, at 7:49 AM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > I planted out Rhodohypoxis too in my California garden, but it did not > survive. It was either too wet in winter or too dry in summer for it. > Recently I noticed what looked liked digging activity > in a Rhodohypoxis pot and dumped it out and not much was left, only a > few > tiny bulbs. So perhaps rodents got them. > Many of my experiments with summer rainfall > bulbs are unsuccessful. > From jshields104@insightbb.com Fri Mar 3 15:00:10 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060303140223.00b1aec8@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Bloom Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 14:31:00 -0500 In the big greenhouse, some of the clivia are starting to bloom. These are mainly plants received from California in the past few months. In the smaller greenhouses, the Cyclamen are suffering from the occasionally sunny days we have had. Only a single pot, of Cyclamen repandum vivendum has a lone flower. A couple pots of Cyrtanthus maakenii cooperi are showing yellow flower buds. A couple of Scadoxus puniceus are blooming, later than usual. Lapierousia pyramidalis, an odd looking little thing, is in bloom. Ipheon 'Foyle Mill' and 'Rolf Fiedler' are in bloom. Lachenalia carnosa and Lachenalia latifolia are flowering, while most of other Lachenalia are past. Moraea villosa is almost finished, but managed one last bloom today. Herperantha cuculata is done, and I never did see an open flower on it, just the white buds with the broad bronze mid-bands on the outside of the segments. Hesperantha bachmannii is full of pure white blooms. An oddity, Ornithogalum apertum, is in flower: Its ca. 6-inch tall scapes have typical Ornithogalum flowers, yellow with a broad green mid-band on each segment; and the grey-green leaves are spirals. These bulbs are starting to multiply finally too. Finally, a couple pots of Ferraria crispa yellow form, grown from seed, are showing flower buds for the very first time. My pot of regular F. crispa may have been neglected a bit too much. They are not showing any signs of scapes. Zantedeschia aethiopica 'Hercules' is also in flower. This one is not yet of herculean proportions, being only in a 2-gallon pot. My other Z. aethipoica plants seem to flower only in early summer. Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri Mar 3 15:43:08 2006 Message-Id: <002301c63f03$1346d9e0$d9002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Bloom Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 15:43:05 -0500 Tecophilaea cyanocrocus, growing outside in a pot in a protected place, opened its first flower today. Wow! And thank you, Jane. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I'm a very happy gardener today. From dkramb@badbear.com Fri Mar 3 16:47:32 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20060303164702.01ab0180@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Hypoxis hirsutus Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 16:47:47 -0500 >winter. Hypoxis hirsutus is an uncommon native, and does OK in the >open garden. Wish it were a bit more 'weedy'. I second that emotion. I love it, but it's not as vigorous an increaser as I'd like for it to be. Dennis in Cincinnati From mark@marksgardenplants.com Fri Mar 3 16:53:36 2006 Message-Id: <00cf01c63f0c$e9191390$c3698d56@galanthophile> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Hypoxis hirsutus Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 21:53:30 -0000 My potful is very poor looking after the hard frosts, to us anyway, and snow of this week. The leaves have become very dry. Has it died? I was told in zone 8 it would be hardy. Mark N Ireland where the road network ground to a halt this morning due to a fall of 4 inches of snow in 30 minutes ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Kramb" > >>winter. Hypoxis hirsutus is an uncommon native, and does OK in the >>open garden. Wish it were a bit more 'weedy'. > > I second that emotion. I love it, but it's not as vigorous an increaser > as > I'd like for it to be. > > Dennis in Cincinnati From dells@voicenet.com Fri Mar 3 16:59:40 2006 Message-Id: <20060303215940.D082C4C012@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Global warming Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 16:59:51 -0500 Here is an interesting article that was quoted from John Atcheson on the yahoo mesembs group: > Over the past several months, the normally restrained voice of science > has taken on a distinct note of panic when it comes to global warming. > How did we go from debating the "uncertainty" behind climate science > to near hysterical warnings from normally sober scientists about > irrevocable and catastrophic consequences? Two reasons. > First, there hasn't been any real uncertainty in the scientific > community for more than a decade. An unholy alliance of key fossil > fuel corporations and conservative politicians have waged a > sophisticated and well-funded misinformation campaign to create doubt > and controversy in the face of nearly universal scientific consensus. > In this, they were aided and abetted by a press which loved > controversy more than truth, and by the Bush administration, which has > systematically tried to distort the science and silence and intimidate > government scientists who sought to speak out on global warming. But > the second reason is that the scientific community failed to > adequately anticipate and model several positive feedback loops that > profoundly amplify the rate and extent of human-induced climate > change. And in the case of global warming, positive feedback loops can > have some very negative consequences. The plain fact is, we are fast > approaching - and perhaps well past - several tipping points which > would make global warming irreversible. > In an editorial in the Baltimore Sun on December 15th, 2004 this > author outlined one such tipping point: a self-reinforcing feedback > loop in which higher temperatures caused methane - a powerful heat- > trapping greenhouse gas (GHG) - to escape from ice-like structures > called clathrates, which raised the temperature which caused more > methane to be released and so on. Even though there was strong > evidence that this mechanism had contributed to at least two extreme > warming events in the geologic past, the scientific community hadn't > yet focused on methane ices in 2004. Even among the few pessimists who > had, we believed - or hoped - that we had a decade or so before > anything like it began happening again. > We were wrong. > In August of 2005 a team of scientists from Oxford and Tomsk > University in Russia announced that a massive Siberian peat bog the > size of Germany and France combined was melting, releasing billions of > tons of methane as it did. > The last time it got warm enough to set off this feedback loop was > 55 million years ago in a period known as the Paleocene-Eocene Thermal > Maximum or PETM, when increased volcanic activity released enough GHGs > to trigger a series of self-reinforcing methane burps. > The resulting warming caused massive die-offs and it took more than > 100,000 years for the earth to recover. > It's looks like we're on the verge of triggering a far worse event. > At a recent meeting of the American Academy for the Advancement of > Sciences in St. Louis, James Zachos, foremost expert on the PETM > reported that greenhouse gasses are accumulating in the atmosphere at > thirty times the speed with which they did during the PETM. > We may have just witnessed the first salvo in what could prove to be > an irreversible trip to hell on earth. > There are other positive feedback loops we've failed to anticipate. > For example, the heat wave in Europe that killed 35,000 people in > 2003 also damaged European woodlands, causing them to release more > carbon dioxide, the main GHG, than they sequester - exactly the > opposite of the assumptions built into our models, which treat forests > as sponges that sop up excess carbon. > The same thing is happening to a number of other ecosystems that our > models and scientists have treated as carbon sinks. The Amazon > rainforest, the boreal forests (one of the largest terrestrial carbon > sinks in the planet), and soils in temperate areas are all releasing > more carbon than they are absorbing, due to global warming-induced > droughts, diseases, pest activity, and metabolic changes. In short, > many of the things we treat as carbon sponges in our models aren't > sopping up excess carbon; they're being wrung out and releasing extra > carbon. > The polar ice cap is also melting far faster than models predict, > setting off another feedback loop. Less ice means more open water, > which absorbs more heat which means less ice, and so on. > Even worse, we've substantially underestimated the rate at which > continental glaciers are melting. > Climate change models predicted that it would take more than 1,000 > years for Greenland's ice sheet to melt. But at the AAAS meeting in > St. Louis, NASA's Eric Rignot outlined the results of a study that > shows Greenland's ice cover is breaking apart and flowing into the sea > at rates far in excess of anything scientists predicted, and it's > accelerating each year. If (or when) Greenland's ice cover melts, it > will raise sea levels by 21 feet - enough to inundate nearly every sea > port in America. > In the Antarctic seas, another potentially devastating feedback loop > is taking place. Populations of krill have plummeted by 80% in the > last few years due to loss of sea ice. Krill are the single most > important species in the marine foodchain, and they also extract > massive amounts of carbon out of the atmosphere. No one predicted > their demise, but the ramifications for both global warming and the > health of marine ecosystems are disastrous. This, too, will likely > feed on itself, as less krill means more carbon stays in the > atmosphere, which means warmer seas, which means less ice, which means > less krill and so on in a massive negative spiral. > > One of our preeminent planetary scientists, James Lovelock, believes > that in the not too distant future humans will be restricted to a > relatively few breeding pairs in Antarctica. It would be comfortable > to dismiss Professor Lovelock as a doom and gloom crazy, but that > would be a mistake. A little over a year ago at the conclusion of a > global conference in Exeter England on Avoiding Dangerous Climate > Change, scientists warned that if we allowed atmospheric > concentrations of GHG to exceed 400 ppm, we could trigger serious and > irreversible consequences. We passed that milestone in 2005 with > little notice and no fanfare. > The scientific uncertainty in global warming isn't about whether it's > occurring or whether it's caused by human activity, or even if it will > "cost" us too much to deal with it now. That's all been settled. > Scientists are now debating whether it's too late to prevent planetary > devastation, or whether we have yet a small window to forestall the > worst effects of global warming. > > Our children may forgive us the debts we're passing on to them, they > may forgive us if terrorism persists, they may forgive us for waging > war instead of pursuing peace, they may even forgive us for > squandering the opportunity to put the nuclear genie back in the > bottle. But they will spit on our bones and curse our names if we pass > on a world that is barely habitable when it was in our power to > prevent it. > > And they will be right to do so. > > John Atcheson's writing has appeared in the Washington Post, the > Baltimore Sun, the San Jose Mercury News, the Memphis Commercial > Appeal, as well as in several wonk journals. Email to: > atchman@ > > http://www.commondreams.org/views06/0222-27.htm > > http://tinyurl.com/z9fbb From dkramb@badbear.com Fri Mar 3 17:02:15 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20060303170135.01d6cc28@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Hypoxis hirsutus Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 17:02:35 -0500 At 04:53 PM 3/3/2006, you wrote: >My potful is very poor looking after the hard frosts, to us anyway, and snow >of this week. The leaves have become very dry. Has it died? I was told in >zone 8 it would be hardy. > >Mark >N Ireland Hi Mark, I'm in Zone 6, and it does fine here. I think it naturally occurs in USA up into Zone 5, maybe even Zone 4 or 3. It should do perfectly well for you in Zone 8. DK in OH From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri Mar 3 17:46:11 2006 Message-Id: <007201c63f14$43e7fa50$d9002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Spring is here Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 17:46:08 -0500 For a breath of spring - as we experience it here in the Washington, D.C. area - take a look at the photo gallery at the end of the March 2006 PVC Bulletin: http://www.pvcnargs.org/pvc_bulletin_March_2006.htm My Tecophilaea is there, too. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where some herbaceous peonies which jumped the gun and were eight inches out of the ground were cut badly by a freeze last week. From dells@voicenet.com Fri Mar 3 18:00:09 2006 Message-Id: <20060303230009.0954F4C012@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Soil vs peat Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 18:00:22 -0500 Dear All, I read recipes for potting mixtures all over the horticultural literature. In some sources, I read about "soilless mixtures" and in other places I read about using peat in mixtures instead of soil - that soil is "bad" or that peat is "bad." I learned in my soil science class that soil has a mineral component and an organic component. Also, I learned that organic matter is broken down by chemical and biological agents till it reaches the particle size of silt when it no longer fills the role of organic matter in the soil- that is, "buffering" soil nutrient content and moisture. In the long run, then, peat becomes silt and is essentially no longer "organic." With geophytes that we grow in the same pot for years, what are the implications? Here in SE Pennsylvania, we have just weathered a small ice storm, and the weather is March-like with wind and increasingly bright sun. In the outside garden , Galanthus nivalis and elwesii, Eranthis hyemalis, Crocus laevigatus and angustifolius? are blooming. Inside there are many Hipp hybrids, Ipheion, and Cyrtanthus mackenii. Clivia nobilis is trying to bloom for the first time - I hope the scape rises above the leaves. (On a side note, this plant arrived from South Africa under phyto-sanitary certification with a big fat lily borer caterpillar munching on the leaves. As curious as I was to raise it to maturity in a jar, feeding it clivia leaves, I smashed it, out of fidelity to my USDA.) Best wishes, Dell From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Fri Mar 3 19:17:09 2006 Message-Id: <33f04d62d7811025e57378084f19ac9c@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Global warming Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 16:17:05 -0800 It has been very interesting for me this past couple of weeks to see Eric Rignot's name in virtually every major newspaper, all over Google News, and even in some of the email lists I belong to (which are on completely different unrelated topics). He is in the office right next to mine at work. (I.e., his office is behind the wall I face when I'm sitting at my desk.) And just yesterday, his wife Isabella Velicogna, who works downstairs, showed up in Google News (for example on Fox News ) with her results from a completely different method of measurement (change in gravity) showing that the Antarctic ice cap has also been losing ice for the past 3 years that the satellite she used has been in orbit . One of the things that Eric showed that even the worst-case scenarios forgot to take into account is that the melting is causing the still frozen ice to slip and slide into the ocean anyway . Since it displaces nearly as much volume as it would if it were melted, the net effect on world sea level is the same: Melted or not, all that ice and additional water will cause sea level to rise. Also today, as in the recent past, it was announced that the Iditarod race route in Alaska will have to be changed again due to a lack of snow along part of the original route. So while there is some argument as to what kind of global climate change is occurring and just how much of it is due to human effects, no scientists are arguing that you can add all the extra CO2 and other compounds to the atmosphere that humans are adding and that it will have absolutely zero effect. That is scientifically ridiculous. Most people around here I know therefore refer to it as global climate change rather than global warming because no one knows for sure what the actual effects will be. But they all agree that there has to be effects of some kind. I also haven't heard any results of anyone showing actual models or simulations that the earth will become nearly uninhabitable. That sounds like a huge overstatement of the problems that might occur. However, it would be very difficult to state with a straight face in the face of all the measured data showing up that nothing different will occur and that all will be the same as it has been for the past several centuries. I've even heard some people around here mention that Russia and Canada are already taking the very first initial steps to plan for setting up future shipping and trade routes and ports between the two countries for when the Arctic Ocean becomes mostly ice-free all year round. Personally, I don't know what the solutions are. But ignoring what the data are starting to show more and more, and act as if none of it is really happening, or expect it to all go away sounds even more foolish or even childish to me. One can prepare for various scenarios just as people everywhere should prepare for things such as earthquakes or hurricanes or winter blizzards that are sure to occur depending on what area of the world you live in. I can't imagine living in North Dakota and living my annual life exactly as I would here in California and expect to have no problems of any kind in the future. And it might be fun to be able to grow things outside that weren't possible a decade or two ago. Maybe that is a small silver lining that will help us get through things if the overall effects are worse than we expect... --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a On Mar 3, 2006, at 1:59 PM, Dell Sherk wrote: > Here is an interesting article that was quoted from John Atcheson on > the > yahoo mesembs group: > > >> Climate change models predicted that it would take more than 1,000 > >> years for Greenland's ice sheet to melt. But at the AAAS meeting in > >> St. Louis, NASA's Eric Rignot outlined the results of a study that > >> shows Greenland's ice cover is breaking apart and flowing into the sea > >> at rates far in excess of anything scientists predicted, and it's > >> accelerating each year. If (or when) Greenland's ice cover melts, it > >> will raise sea levels by 21 feet - enough to inundate nearly every sea > >> port in America. >> >> But they will spit on our bones and curse our names if we pass > >> on a world that is barely habitable when it was in our power to > >> prevent it. > From donhackenberry@acsworld.com Fri Mar 3 19:34:12 2006 Message-Id: <001701c63f23$710cb020$fa564845@oemcomputer> From: "Don Hackenberry" Subject: Hypoxis hirsuta Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 19:34:45 -0500 Dear Mark and All, Great to see you here! Zone 8-- I wish! Hypoxis hirsuta is indeed hardy in zone 8, not to mention zone 6 and colder than that. It's native here (should tell everyone else what you already know, here is in the hills of Pennsylvania, one mountain range southeast of Penn State U), and its range is north to Maine. It's too seldom seen here, but can have good sized populations where it does occur. In Virginia you'll see it more often, in smaller populations. May I suggest that the leaves are dry because it is dormant? Pry apart at the base, and you just might see some sign of life. If it got dried out, the fact that it is sort of a bulb means that it can take it, though in the three sites I know of here there is some seepage in the ground, and two have a small streamlet nearby, and in Virginia I've seen it along large creeks. Now, clarification of the above: went to one of the three sites last summer, and someone had been having fun with his little backhoe. In fact, he left it at the site. Another is on or adjacent to private property someone didn't want me on years ago and I haven't been back. That leaves one I can go to, but it's the best of the three. Norman Deno says my Hypoxis hirsuta have larger flowers than others he's seen. Will ask other Native Plant Soc members what populations they know of. Best, Don From eob@peak.org Sat Mar 4 01:25:31 2006 Message-Id: From: "Ernie O'Byrne" Subject: Nerine casualties Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 22:25:29 -0800 We stupidly left a fairly large number of nerine selections outside during a recent dip to 16 degrees F., protected only by a piece of 1/4" foam frost cloth, and most were mush, but some have a large part of the bulb and the bottom plate intact, although the leaves and top part of the bulb have been damaged to the extent that there is not much left. Will these likely regenerate? I had some Eucomis bicolor freeze in a similar way one time and they turned into a very nice clump in time, regenerating (and multiplying nicely) from the basal plate. Any guidance would be appreciated. Also, has anyone propagated Allium schubertii by manipulation of the bulb, or by seed? Ernie O'Byrne Northwest Garden Nursery 86813 Central Road Eugene, ORegon 97402 USA USDA Z. 7B From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat Mar 4 10:16:20 2006 Message-Id: <000701c63f9e$94b01c30$9b012c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Nerine casualties Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 10:16:14 -0500 I'm sorry to hear about your Nerine losses, Ernie. Can you explain in more detail what you did to protect them? The reason I'm asking is that I put my Nerine outside several weeks ago; since then, there have been several overnight dips, one down to the 12-15 degree F range. So far, there has been no significant damage. The Nerine are in pots near a house wall. The proximity of the wall no doubt ameliorates the temperature dips, and the plants are covered nightly with a double layer of plastic tarp. They are not only covered, the edges are sealed so that there is little if any air movement. So far, this has worked. I doubt that this system of protection will work in a normal winter, when we sometimes go for days or even weeks at a time when the daytime temperature does not go above freezing. But this has been an exceptionally mild winter. I'm amazed and very happy that this has worked here, but obviously I'm skating on thin ice. Understanding in greater detail what you did may help all of us come to a better way of protecting these plants. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where nights are still cold enough to freeze bowls of water solid. From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat Mar 4 10:24:23 2006 Message-Id: <000801c63f9f$b6cdd310$9b012c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Tecophilaea pollination Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 10:24:21 -0500 The presence of a Tecophilaea flower in full bloom and a second on the way - and the potential to cross pollinate them and get seed - has me daydreaming about starting a Tecophilaea farm. But I don't see obvious anthers or stigmas. Are they buried down in the flower? Will I have to tear apart the bloom to get to them? Any advice from more practiced hands will be appreciated. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, prospective proprietor of Tecophilaeas R Us. From rarebulbs@cox.net Sat Mar 4 10:29:40 2006 Message-Id: <000a01c63fa0$72d1d7f0$060db146@DJ9SK221> From: "diana chapman" Subject: Tecophilaea pollination Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 07:29:37 -0800 Hi Jim: Mine are all forming seed pods. Just take a small paint brush and wiggle it all the way down inside. You should see pollen on the brush. The anthers and stigma are way down there. Diana Telos Rare Bulbs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim McKenney" To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 7:24 AM Subject: [pbs] Tecophilaea pollination > The presence of a Tecophilaea flower in full bloom and a second on the way - > and the potential to cross pollinate them and get seed - has me daydreaming > about starting a Tecophilaea farm. > > But I don't see obvious anthers or stigmas. Are they buried down in the > flower? Will I have to tear apart the bloom to get to them? > > Any advice from more practiced hands will be appreciated. > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, prospective proprietor of > Tecophilaeas R Us. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From eob@peak.org Sat Mar 4 11:37:35 2006 Message-Id: From: "Ernie O'Byrne" Subject: Nerine casualties Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 08:37:22 -0800 The Nerine were in gallon pots in a block of about 10 by 10 (pots). When cold weather was predicted, I dragged out our frost protection blanket, which hadn't been used in a number of years because we have been having "normal" temps, mostly, or even a bit on the warm side. Anyway the blanket is 1/4" foam sandwiched between two pieces of plastic. It is designed to breath and even to admit water. It was clear when we had the frost, but I think a large part of the problem is that in this area, we get heavy winter rains and the pots were saturated going into the freeze. In a drier climate, I think that they would have been fine. The blanket was held down around the plants with weight, so air movement around the pots would have been minimal. In the promotion blurb about the material, they claim about 7-8 degrees F. protection, so with temps of 16 degrees, they still would have been getting 23-24 degrees. I don't know about the parentage of the plants and would have to check to see where we got them (Northwest Bulbs?), but the colors offered were salmon, white, red and a cultivar called 'Magenta Princess'. Perhaps they were just not very hardy, especially in a pot. Ernie O'Byrne Northwest Garden Nursery 86813 Central Road Eugene, ORegon 97402 USA USDA Z. 7B -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Jim McKenney Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 7:16 AM To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Subject: Re: [pbs] Nerine casualties I'm sorry to hear about your Nerine losses, Ernie. Can you explain in more detail what you did to protect them? The reason I'm asking is that I put my Nerine outside several weeks ago; since then, there have been several overnight dips, one down to the 12-15 degree F range. So far, there has been no significant damage. The Nerine are in pots near a house wall. The proximity of the wall no doubt ameliorates the temperature dips, and the plants are covered nightly with a double layer of plastic tarp. They are not only covered, the edges are sealed so that there is little if any air movement. So far, this has worked. I doubt that this system of protection will work in a normal winter, when we sometimes go for days or even weeks at a time when the daytime temperature does not go above freezing. But this has been an exceptionally mild winter. I'm amazed and very happy that this has worked here, but obviously I'm skating on thin ice. Understanding in greater detail what you did may help all of us come to a better way of protecting these plants. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where nights are still cold enough to freeze bowls of water solid. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Sat Mar 4 12:29:54 2006 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Tecophilaea pollination Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 09:29:52 -0800 On Mar 4, 2006, at 7:24 AM, Jim McKenney wrote: > But I don't see obvious anthers or stigmas. Are they buried down in > the > flower? Will I have to tear apart the bloom to get to them? > > Any advice from more practiced hands will be appreciated. > I have found that when I take a small soft paint brush and twist in down into the center of one flower and then twist it down into the center of another flower, and continue this from flower to flower, they form nice fat seed pods later on. If I don't do this, I get smaller seed pods and often no seeds at all. And I don't have to tear apart the flower either. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA, USDA Zone 10a From dkramb@badbear.com Sat Mar 4 12:35:26 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20060304123450.01e0e378@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Tecophilaea pollination Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 12:35:48 -0500 >I have found that when I take a small soft paint brush and twist in >down into the center of one flower and then twist it down into the >center of another flower, and continue this from flower to flower, There's something very elegant about the thought of "painting" real life flowers. How wonderful! Dennis in Cincy From dejager@bulbargence.com Sat Mar 4 13:26:21 2006 Message-Id: From: Lauw de Jager Subject: Tecophilaea pollination Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 19:24:28 +0100 Jim Mc kenney reported yesterday that his Tecophelias have started flowering. I went out to look at mine and there they are just opening up. Just another puzzling example that in spite of the geographical and climatic differences flowerings starts the same day. The same feature this forum noticed with Dahlia impmerialis, Amaryllis belladonna and others. Can any one think of an explanation Greetings Lauw Lauw de Jager http://www.bulbargence.com South of France (Climat méditerranéen; zone 8 Olivier) Latitude 34° N Altitude: 4m From msittner@mcn.org Sat Mar 4 13:47:12 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060304104155.04379488@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Tecophilaea bloom Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 10:47:02 -0800 Hi, My Tecophilaea has been finished blooming for awhile and Diana's was in bloom when we visited her many weeks ago now so not all Tecophilaeas are blooming at the same time. There must be other factors involved influencing bloom time besides date. Diana's have the protection of her greenhouse and mine are exposed to outside temperatures here in coastal Northern California. We had some unusually warm dry weather in February which would have translated to extra light and perhaps contributed to earlier blooming times. Mary Sue From aquaflorasa@telkomsa.net Sat Mar 4 14:10:12 2006 Message-Id: <009701c63fbf$3a8b50f0$84b0ef9b@p7d1p2> From: "Aqua Flora" Subject: OT: Global Warming Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 21:09:15 +0200 We are seeing "Global Climate Change" all around us. Just the other day I found a Hyperolius marmorathus (Painted Reed Frog) in the nursery, these colourful frogs are (or at least were) restricted to the humid coastal zones of South Africa, Mozambique and Northern Zim., this is way out of its normal distribution and proof that climate has changed. Perhaps Professor Lovelock is a "doom and gloom" crazy scientist, but perhaps global birth restrictions would, in time, lessen the demand for fossil fuels and relieve pressures on natural resources, especially in African countries. To conclude, the earth is a chemical reaction, we can neither add nor destroy matter, simply alter its form. If we disturb the balance a opposite and equally powerful reaction will occur to restore the balance, so we have burned millions of tons of coal, oil, gas etc. and releases fast quantities of CO2 into the atmosphere effectively disturbing the balance. Global Warming is the opposite and equally powerful reaction that will, in time, restore the balance... if our bulbs will survive remains to be seen! Pieter, from a exceptionally wet and cold March. From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat Mar 4 14:47:58 2006 Message-Id: <000e01c63fc4$88ef1e70$c0002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Tecophilaea pollination Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 14:47:55 -0500 Hi Lauw, it's amazing that our Tecophilaea are on the same schedule. It must be a coincidence. Diana has already reported that her plants have moved on to the seed setting stage. With the Dahlia, I would bet that day-length has a lot to do with flowering. With the Tecophilaea, probably not. I suspect temperature is more a factor. My plants might have been in bloom two weeks ago if the weather had been warmer. But we've had a long dull period of daytime temperatures only in the upper 30s, 40s and on one or two days just barely to 50 or a bit over - all of course temperatures F. About a week ago I tried to nudge the flower open by very gently spreading the tepals. But the plant waited for a sunny, warmish day to actually open. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Crocus vitellinus and C. x luteus 'Stellaris' have joined the crowd, and Fritillaria raddeana has fully formed and completely normal flowers on a stem only (so far) about four inches high. Iris rosenbachiana continues to form new blooms, and Corydalis popovii is suddenly about to flower. Why are these all blooming so early? Probably because they are in pots above ground, exposed to air temperature which is generally much higher during the day (and much lower at night) than soil temperature. From IntarsiaCo@aol.com Sat Mar 4 15:47:47 2006 Message-Id: <19c.4633026d.313b56ec@aol.com> From: IntarsiaCo@aol.com Subject: Tecophilaea pollination Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 15:47:40 EST In a message dated 3/4/2006 2:48:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, jimmckenney@starpower.net writes: >it's amazing that our Tecophilaea are on the same schedule T.c. var. leichtlinii started to bloom in the greenhouse the third week of January and var. violacea a week and a half ago. Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. PO Box 142 Gaylordsville, CT 06755 From paul@pleione9.wanadoo.co.uk Sat Mar 4 17:31:54 2006 Message-Id: From: "Paul Cumbleton" Subject: Hypoxis x Rhodohypoxis Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 22:31:53 -0000 I don't know whether any hybids have been made with American species, but the South African Hypoxis parvula has been crossed with Rhodohypoxis baurii with success. The hybrids are correctly called Rhodoxis, though more commonly are still sold as "Rhodohypoxis hybrid" or similar. The best known ones which easily available over here in the UK are the "Hebron farm" series which have cultivar names such as 'Hebron Farm Biscuit', 'Hebron Farm Cerise' and 'Hebron Farn Red Eye'. I don't have pictures of any of these but a web search will turn up a few pictures. Paul Cumbleton Berkshire U.K. Zone 8 From Antennaria@aol.com Sat Mar 4 19:49:36 2006 Message-Id: <75.56524333.313b8f9c@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Rhodohypoxis x Hypoxis Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 19:49:32 EST "Don Hackenberry" donhackenberry@acsworld.com wrote: It's been on my mind for some years, tried crosspollinating with toothpicks, but never got to first base: wonder if it's possible to cross Hypoxis hirsuta and Rhodohypoxis baurii? The hoped for result is something like a slightly hardier Rhodohypoxis. ============== Google Rhodohypoxis x Hypoxis yeilds links for such crosses, such as a Rhodohypoxis baurii x Hypoxis parvula for sale at: http://www.bulbmeister.com/flowershop/sso2004/page08.html Since H. parvula is South African and probably not as hardy as H. hirsuta, I doubt there is any increased hardiness with the bigeneric cross. ...and a photo at (watch for URL wrapping, also baurii is spelled wrong as bourii): http://members.home.nl/ellen.blom/Afbeeldingen/week44/pages/Hypoxis%20parvula% 20x%20rhodohypoxis%20bourii_JPG_jpg.htm The following PBS discussion link has more information on "Rhodoxis hybrida" http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2003-May/013982.html A webpage on South African Hypoxis (of which H. parvula is a member): http://www.plantzafrica.com/planthij/hypoxis.htm Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From jglatt@ptd.net Sun Mar 5 08:10:52 2006 Message-Id: <440AE34A.5000307@ptd.net> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: 2 questions and new e-mail address Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2006 08:10:34 -0500 These questions have been raised in reference to the bulb exhibition at the New York Botanical Garden 's Library's Gallery this fall. Some one (not me) found stunning pictures of an oxalis, sparaxis, and babiaba. It has been suggested that Babiana sulphurea and Sparaxis be used in Bulbs for Bouquets. I have my doubts - don't their flowers quickly close? And is Oxalis tricolor deer-resistant? Thanks for your help - I only received their e-mail yesterday, return to the Library tomorrow, and haven't found answers to these questions in any of the books I looked at last night. Please note that I am in transition to jglatt@direcway.com as e-mail address. Went to Wave Hill in the Bronx, New York City yesterday. Bitter cold with wind sweeping along the Hudson River Valley, and snow-covered ground. Brilliant sunshine. Galanthus and Eranthis hiemalis in flower in the wild garden, assorted crocus. The true display was in the conservatory, where moraea, sparaxis, Freesia alba and more were is superb bloom. From jamievande@freenet.de Sun Mar 5 10:47:19 2006 Message-Id: <440B0808.80809@freenet.de> From: "Jamie V." Subject: Finally getting like...Spring Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2006 16:47:20 +0100 Jamie Vande Cologne Germany Zone 8 We have had an unusually cold Winter in Germany. Lots of snow and almost 3 months at or below the freezing point. Wouldn't have been bad, had we, also, received some sunlight! Yes, all the nasty critters have had a hard time and I expect that we will have very little in the way of garden pests in the Summer. I spent a few hours removing wilted and withered foliage from the Hems, Paeonies, Astilbes, etc., while noting the small Winter Aconites (Eranthus) popping up all over the place. An interesting story lies behind these cheery yellow cups standing but a few centimetres above the ground. I used to teach a class in ceramics at the adult education centre. One of my students, a rather righteous, old-fashioned type with a certain self-assured charm, had what would be akin to a garden plot. This is a club of gardeners that have no home garden and rent a piece of a large gardening estate and try to get along with each other. Well, the stories of the injustices were rampant, but my student always enjoyed explaining how she tried to rise above this and get on with gardening, while carfully modeling one more ceramic ornament for her private paradise. One afternoon she appeared at class with a large plastic sack full of green and brown for my garden. Tons of Eranthus that has seeded throughout her plot. Well, I was delighted, as they are literally the only item that blooms through the late snows and I had none! I planted them about in my lawn and still had more to plant. I planted a few more in my semi-shade area, but there were still more to go. A few came into the rockerie and then the sun was setting, therefore the rest were simply thrown under various shubs and vines, left to their lot. Well, they all grew! Especially those just thrown under shrubs! The sad part is that this student recently succumed to cancer. We all new of her plight and I suppose we were her support group at the ceramics workshop. We all got involved in helping her set her wigs after the chemo and generally playing sounding board. I think it was an interesting experience for us all. Needless to say, as I enjoyed the yellow Eranthus during my weeding I thought of her. See, we do live on in the hearts of others! I have an unidentified snowdrop in the garden. Three times as large as G. nivalis, blooms about two weeks ahead, but is otherwise identical. Does anyone know much agout Galanthus? Is there a typical cultivar that meets this vague description? Could it be a hybrid that seeded about? I do not grow any other species, but neighbours have what appears to be G. elwesii. Ciao, Jamie V. Cologne From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Mar 5 11:20:34 2006 Message-Id: <440B0FD0.4030001@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Cyclamen africanum Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2006 11:20:32 -0500 Another view of Cyclamen africanum with the 'v' shaped marking. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Cyclamen Arnold From msittner@mcn.org Sun Mar 5 11:27:55 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060305081758.031eab90@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: 2 questions and new e-mail address Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2006 08:27:34 -0800 Dear Judy, A lot of South African bulbs need warmth to stay open so they can be open longer indoors if it is warm than outdoors. Babianas in my garden often bloom a long time if not ruined by the rain. My experience with Sparaxis is that is never lasts very long. Even in the garden a week is about the longest. That is longer than some that last days however. It would depend on how long you need it to be in bloom. I will change your email address for this list later today (provided I can, see note below), but you will need to respond to the confirmation message about it. Mary Sue In a hurry since the power has just gone out and I am in battery back-up and have things to save. It's been raining a lot off and on all week and has been very windy as well so no doubt some tree fell over in the saturated soil and hit a power line. Other areas in our community were out for 12 hours earlier this week, but we were spared. It looks like our turn now. From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Sun Mar 5 12:27:50 2006 Message-Id: <011001c6407a$1c5ef210$a4fb1b52@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Cyclamen africanum Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 17:27:41 -0000 Arnold's "Cyclamen africanum" looks nothing like any C. africanum I've ever seen (africanum flowers alone are practically indistinguishable from those of some C. hederifolium). It looks much more like C. cyprium to me. Please could we see the leaves as well? John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Spring open days 2006 Mothering Sunday 26 March Easter weekend 15-16-17 April May Day Bank Holiday Plant Sale 1 May Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Arnold Trachtenberg" > Another view of Cyclamen africanum with the 'v' shaped marking. > > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Cyclamen > > Arnold > > From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Sun Mar 5 12:32:04 2006 Message-Id: <011a01c6407a$b7090fd0$a4fb1b52@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Nerine casualties Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 17:32:01 -0000 Ernie - if the basal plate is undamaged, with sound parts of scales still attached, then you will probably get some sort of regeneration. I would clean up the bulbs, cutting down into healthy tissue, dust with a fungicide and repot in sandy mix. Keep on the dry side until you see new growth developing, then water as normal for that species (it sounds as if they're N. sarniensis, a winter-growing species, in which case they may not shoot again until next autumn). John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Spring open days 2006 Mothering Sunday 26 March Easter weekend 15-16-17 April May Day Bank Holiday Plant Sale 1 May Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ernie O'Byrne" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 6:25 AM Subject: [pbs] Nerine casualties > We stupidly left a fairly large number of nerine selections outside during a > recent dip to 16 degrees F., protected only by a piece of 1/4" foam frost > cloth, and most were mush, but some have a large part of the bulb and the > bottom plate intact, although the leaves and top part of the bulb have been > damaged to the From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Mar 5 12:47:41 2006 Message-Id: <440B243B.8050809@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Cyclamen africanum Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2006 12:47:39 -0500 John: I would, but there aren't any up yet. I have to admit that there is some doubt in my mind of the identification. It was received as an unknown. Arnold From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue Mar 7 02:27:33 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060306125402.01107028@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Soil vs peat Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 13:05:26 -0800 Dell SHerk wrote, I read recipes for potting mixtures all over the horticultural >literature. In some sources, I read about "soilless mixtures" and in other >places I read about using peat in mixtures instead of soil - that soil is >"bad" or that peat is "bad." I learned in my soil science class that soil >has a mineral component and an organic component. Also, I learned that >organic matter is broken down by chemical and biological agents till it >reaches the particle size of silt when it no longer fills the role of >organic matter in the soil- that is, "buffering" soil nutrient content and >moisture. In the long run, then, peat becomes silt and is essentially no >longer "organic." With geophytes that we grow in the same pot for years, >what are the implications? I think many publications that warn against using peat are from Britain, where the overexploitation of local peat deposits is a serious environmental concern. In North America, most of our peat comes from the vast deposits in Canada, and we need not feel guilty using it in potting soil. However, I don't think peat is a good component of potting soil for bulbs except perhaps those that are kept constantly very moist; it's too hard to remoisten once it dries out. It breaks down and compacts rather soon. Also, a geologist friend warned me that combining peat with pumice would cause the pumice to break down faster. I use peat only in seed starting mix. Warnings against using "soil" may reflect an awareness that garden soils vary greatly from place to place, and some may be composed of too many fines to be healthy for potted bulbs. Or it may reflect the belief that potting soil should be "sterile," which I think is nonsense; as soon as the "sterilized" components get into the pot and out in the air, they will be quickly colonized by microorganisms, unless they're in a totally controlled laboratory setting. I grow almost all my bulbs in a mixture of coarse sharp sand, ground pumice, and sieved but otherwise untreated topsoil from the woodland on my property. I was however puzzled by Dell's reference to "geophytes that we grow in the same pot for years." I wouldn't leave any bulb for years without repotting it. All of mine are repotted every second year in freshly prepared soil. I use the old potting soil to amend areas of the garden. Perhaps, however, there are tropical bulbs that need to be left undisturbed? Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue Mar 7 01:42:09 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060306131407.01158990@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Tecophilaea pollination Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 13:15:19 -0800 I used to hand-pollinate Tecophilaea cyanocrocus but now find that the bees do it for me very satisfactorily. I have a lot of bees in the frames even this early in the year, attracted no doubt by the crocuses. I always get enough seed to plant some for increase and even send some to the NARGS seed exchange. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From arnold@nj.rr.com Mon Mar 6 20:56:00 2006 Message-Id: <440CE82E.4010607@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Cyclamen_cyprium_AT.jpg Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 20:55:58 -0500 Thanks to all who provided me with the correct ID of the cyclamen. I have added it to the correct area. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Cyclamen Arnold From res07umn@verizon.net Sun Mar 5 23:41:26 2006 Message-Id: <002e01c641a0$70e24e50$3d79183f@homed4aec9b2d8> From: "Hansen Nursery" Subject: Cyclamen africanum Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 20:34:05 -0800 Arnold's africanum would appear to be cyprium. Please let us know when the leaves appear. Robin Hansen Hansen Nursery From khixson@nu-world.com Tue Mar 7 04:25:29 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20060306235449.027262b0@mail.nu-world.com> From: Kenneth Hixson Subject: long-Soil vs peat Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 01:24:27 -0800 >Dell wrote > >- that soil is > >"bad" or that peat is "bad." I learned in my soil science class that soil > >has a mineral component and an organic component. Also, I learned that > >organic matter is broken down by chemical and biological agents Any living soil--ie, one that supports plants, is also composed of water and air. And, note that the organic component is composed in large part of the bodies of micro-organisms, bugs, worms, etc, living and dead. The soils used for testing is soils science classes are dried out, the microorganisms long since dead, no earthworms, burrowing beetles, etc. Not really representative of a "living" soil. > In the long run, then, peat becomes silt and is essentially no > >longer "organic." Organic is not quite synonymous with carbonaceous, but the distinction is small. The size of the peat particle does not determine its' ability to function. And, the breakdown of peat is mostly done by microorganisms, which die and contribute their bodies to the organic matter in the soil. The organic matter is still there-in a different form. >With geophytes that we grow in the same pot for years, > >what are the implications? > It is often recommended that certain bulbs be allowed to become "potbound"--ie amaryllis (Hippeastrum). Such pots when finally unpotted are found to consist primarily of roots, living and dead. How is such a plant getting water, nutrients? Is this the only or best way to accomplish what is needed? and Jane wrote: > Also, a geologist friend warned me that combining peat with pumice >would cause the pumice to break down faster. I use peat only in seed >starting mix. > Peat, being acidic, does cause the breakdown of mineral matter but the effect is limited and slow, as the acid is rather limited, particularly in the amount found in a normal potting mix. I use (1/2 and 1/2) pumice and peat in growing rhododendrons and have not noticed any effect--but of course I only leave seedlings or cuttings in flats for a couple years. One thing worth mentioning, where peat has been used, oxalis often appears as a weed, the seed presumably being able to survive being submerged with the peat, for a very long time. >Warnings against using "soil" may reflect an awareness that garden soils >vary greatly from place to place, and some may be composed of too many >fines to be healthy for potted bulbs. Warnings against using soil are blindly copied from the nursery industry, and should be taken with a very large grain of salt. Imagine what it is like for the operator of a nursery growing a hundred acres of two gallon pot plants--He must fill many thousands of gallons of pots, every two years on average. The amount of soil needed is staggering--as a rough approximation, assume that the soil needed would cover the hundred acres about six inches deep. (Since the pots do not cover all the soil surface). In that quantity, the soil would vary enormously--some good topsoil, but lots of clay and rock subsoil. A nursery needs to water and fertilize uniformly, and that just isn't possible if the soil texture varies. Weeds you've never seen before will appear. Micro-organisms, some harmful, will also appear, though you may not realize where they came from. These things cost money to control. If you've ever tried to grow something in a pot of pure soil, you've already found out that it drains poorly, roots rot off, and plants simply grow poorly. Then, when the crop is finally ready to market, the plants have to be shipped. If you can ship ten thousand plants in a light potting mix for the same weight-(equals price) , as half that many plants growing in pure dirt, what would you do? Finally, many states, including Oregon, and many countries, have laws against "mining" a property for potting soil. I visited one nursery site in Portland where the soil had been dug down twenty seven feet below the surrounding properties. Imagine how the neighbors feel, watching their property slowly erode onto a neighboring nursery. >Or it may reflect the belief that >potting soil should be "sterile," which I think is nonsense; as soon as the >"sterilized" components get into the pot and out in the air, they will be >quickly colonized by microorganisms, unless they're in a totally controlled >laboratory setting. And usually, the microorganisms that colonize are more virulent than they would have been if "good" microorganisms were also present, but the "good" microorganisms are generally slower to recolonize than the pathogenic organisms. This is the great failing of soil fumigation. In the end, it may be easier to understand if you substitute "organic matter" for peat, and consider the functions that peat/organic matter serves in the mix. Organic matter separates the mineral particles, allowing air and water to penetrate the mix--and both are necessary components of any living soil. Organic matter retains moisture, which otherwise would rather quickly drain through mineral soil. Organic matter absorbs minerals needed by plants, then releases them slowly as the plant roots can absorb them. Peat has a very high ability to absorb moisture, has an extremely high CEC-Cation Exchange Capacity, or ability to absorb minerals, and has at least some anti-fungicidal properties, which makes it a very good material to use--and, it is usually relatively economical to purchase--but it is not the only possible material. Dirt/soil/loam serves as a source of minerals. It is seldom used in the potting mixes currently used in the nursery industry--not because it isn't valuable and serves a function, but because it simply isn't available in large enough quantities in a standard quality, a reasonable price, and a low enough weight to allow economical shipping. Most potting mixes also include a material that is porous enough to allow air to be retained in the mix even if it is watered by overhead sprinklers every day--which causes soil compaction. The potting mix that works for you will not work for someone in a different climate, who waters differently, who grows different plants, who never fertilizes or fertilizes regularly, etc, etc. In fact the mix that works for you may not work for your next door neighbor. What you have to do is learn to "see" how your plants are growing, and what they should look like at particular times of the growing seasons. Do they have few or no roots when they are growing leaves vigorously? Do they normally have no living roots when they are dormant, or are the roots rotting off during dormancy? Is there not enough drainage, not enough porosity in the potting mix, should the pot be tipped on its side during dormancy, etc. Ken From irisman@ameritech.net Tue Mar 7 12:57:17 2006 Message-Id: <002601c64210$4dd9ff00$5ad8fea9@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: Soil vs. non-soil mixes. Ken Hixson's notes Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 11:55:21 -0600 I'd like to endorse the entire text of Ken's last thoughtful and scientifically sound comments. and they deserve to be promulgated widely. The soilless mix ideas, (as I remember), can be traced back to University of California at Davis experiments on seed germination and control of disease in greenhousesand hydroponics back in the 30s and 40s. I would add only: Learn about the provenance of the plants you want to grow. If the plant is found in clay, or rocky clay, do not put it in a "nice bed" of enriched peat and fertilizer to give it what the "poor thing" lacked in nature--you are thereby likely to make it "go to sleep in its bed" forever. If it grows in scree--make a scree before you try to grow it. At least try to approximate similar conditions. Can't get serpentine? Try decomposed granite. Add a handful of Epsom salts to your broken concrete and sand mix. Also, re woodland plants, if the plant is known to grow in deep shade--be aware that it may well have germinated and grown in shade long before the trees became a dense canopy above it. I am finding that most arisaemas can take about twice the amount of sun that one might expect, given adequate moisture and either sharp drainage through porous soil, or clay (depending on the species) where moisture content is limited by water's draining off the surface because the surface is slanted. Cheers from Glenview, IL where the snow is melting and the high will be 44° F. From rarebulbs@cox.net Tue Mar 7 13:14:57 2006 Message-Id: <000c01c64213$0739d400$060db146@DJ9SK221> From: "diana chapman" Subject: Contact? Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 10:14:51 -0800 Was anyone able to find Kevin Preuss? My e-mail address for him is not working. Diana From putman@pobox.upenn.edu Tue Mar 7 13:53:19 2006 Message-Id: <440DD68E.4050001@pobox.upenn.edu> From: Stephen Putman Subject: Contact? Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 13:53:02 -0500 Try this. It worked in December kevinpreuss@bellsouth.net Steve Putman diana chapman wrote: > Was anyone able to find Kevin Preuss? My e-mail address for him is not > working. > > Diana > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Tue Mar 7 14:01:15 2006 Message-Id: <20060307190111.48482.qmail@web33902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: Relocation Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 11:01:11 -0800 (PST) 'Go east old man' I am relocating to College Station Texas next week. It's been a pleasure living in California. I still was able to cultivate 32 species of Hippeastrum and hope they proliferate in Texas. I wish I could have attended more meetings and met more people but my job here took most of your time. California is a beautiful state, (away from the cities at least) and the pacific highway is gorgeous. I will still be working with cotton and the USDA-ARS. Here's to meeting more bulbophiles in Texas. I hope the bulbs grow bigger there. James Frelichowski Southern Plains Agricultural Research Center Crop Germplasm Research 2881 F&B RD COLLEGE STATION, TX, 77845-0000 --------------------------------- Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. From khixson@nu-world.com Tue Mar 7 15:07:26 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20060307111540.029cc050@mail.nu-world.com> From: Kenneth Hixson Subject: OT? Soil vs. non-soil mixes. Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 12:06:29 -0800 Adam wrote: >The soilless mix ideas, (as I remember), can be traced back to University >of California at Davis experiments on seed germination and control of >disease in greenhousesand hydroponics back in the 30s and 40s. To the best of my knowledge, the use of peat based potting mixes probably started with or was first seriously studied by, the John Innes Research Institute in England. California, being a major producer of nursery stock, early started the study of alternatives to soil mixes, built on the studies from the JIRI, and produced a thick manual on producing and using soiless potting mixes, which was required reading for nursery management students in the 1960's. I still have a copy somewhere. Cornel University in New York also advocated a "peat-lite" mix, but it is less well known in the western USA. Other regional Universities also developed mixes suited to local materials and conditions. I know Oklahoma developed suggested mixes, and Florida, also long a major producer of nursery stock, must have also, but I don't know much about the Southeast USA. The exact materials varied, the real consideration was and is, to use available and economical materials to maximize plant growth. We, as individual gardeners, can pay more attention to each plant, and can and do cater to the needs of individual plants, sometimes giving a particular growing mix for specific plants, where a large commercial growing operation usually tries to grow a limited number of plants which fit its particular growing mix, watering, and fertilizing schedule. The two approaches are sometimes very different. I've found over the years that I tend to overwater, so I try to include drainage material--pumice or perlite. I also prefer to fertilize less, so I try to use some soil in the mix I use. I could learn to do things differently, but my system works--for me, and for most of the plants I try to grow. Other people will use different mixes to suit their own situation and personal inclinations. Do I grow the best possible plants? No. I like to grow too many plants to grow any of them to their maximum potential. But, if I could grow all plants perfectly, what would be the challenge? Ken From c-mueller@tamu.edu Tue Mar 7 19:43:03 2006 Message-Id: <440DD4150200008A00000FA9@ag.tamu.edu> From: "Cynthia Mueller" Subject: Relocation Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 18:42:29 -0600 Dear James, Haven't received any box of bulbs from you yet. I hope the telephone book and list of available rentals got to you. The rental listing isn't current, but the thing that will help you with it probably is cost and availability of local housing. See you then, Cynthia Mueller >>> butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com 03/07/06 1:01 PM >>> 'Go east old man' I am relocating to College Station Texas next week. It's been a pleasure living in California. I still was able to cultivate 32 species of Hippeastrum and hope they proliferate in Texas. I wish I could have attended more meetings and met more people but my job here took most of your time. California is a beautiful state, (away from the cities at least) and the pacific highway is gorgeous. I will still be working with cotton and the USDA-ARS. Here's to meeting more bulbophiles in Texas. I hope the bulbs grow bigger there. James Frelichowski Southern Plains Agricultural Research Center Crop Germplasm Research 2881 F&B RD COLLEGE STATION, TX, 77845-0000 --------------------------------- Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From totototo@telus.net Wed Mar 8 16:04:27 2006 Message-Id: <20060308210425.OTJ20917.priv-edmwes26.telusplanet.net@ray> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: OT? Soil vs. non-soil mixes. Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2006 13:05:32 -0800 On 7 Mar 06 at 12:06, Kenneth Hixson wrote: > To the best of my knowledge, the use of peat based potting mixes probably > started with or was first seriously studied by, the John Innes Research Institute in > England. The John Innes mixes are all soil-based. They include some peatmoss, but the principal ingredient is soil. And not just any old soil, at that. It's supposed to be made from rotted turves, carefully seasoned with measured amounts of lime. But perhaps the most important part of the research that led to the JI mixes was a careful study of soil sterilization. The conclusion was reached that you should add a modicum of superphosphate *after* steam sterilization. There's a little book on the JI mixes, probably readily available via Alibris or ABEBooks. Recommended for anyone who wants to get the info from the horse's mouth. The JI formulas are useful as a starting point, esp. where adjustment of pH levels is concerned, but their use of ingredients you simply can't get -- rotted turf, Cornish silver sand -- means you must improvise and use other ingredients. The UC mixes differ in that they are totally soil-free. They were developed for conditions in California, and are not necessarily suitable in other areas. Because they use no soil, they contain no clay fraction and adsorb nutrients relatively poorly. (In normal soils, nutrients are adsorptively bound to clay particles.) As a result, UC mixes require frequent liquid feeding, which may not be appropriate in a dark, dank winter climate. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Mar 9 14:37:57 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Spring? Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 13:41:29 -0600 Dear friends; With more than a month to average last frost, the "spring' garden has gone bonkers way ahead of schedule. Within the last few days I have seen signs more typical or April than of March -and some actually began in Feb.! Iris (Juno) 'Sindpers' opened its first flower and most other Junos are up and a few show buds. Daffodils- Not just the early ones like 'Rynveld's Early Sensation ' (which was way earlier and got severely frosted) but later ones like 'Ice Follies' and 'Gigantic Star' as well as Campernelle and N obvallaris. Drancuculusvulgaris is up and emerging from its sheaths . Iris tigridia in flower (mid-end of April?) Reticulatas past peak. Crocus almost all done except for big vernus cvs liike Pickwick and such. The smaller earlier sieberi and Tommies are about done already! Cyclamen coum beyond peak-already. Anemone blanda starting up. And tree, shrubs and herbaceous perennials are all budding up and expanding like it is the end of April. This is seriously dangerous as we are readily subject to temps down to the teens before Mid April. We can have an odd snow in May! I just hope we don't get the possible freeze damage ahead. Our earliest Magnolia (M. zennii) has had all of its flowers frozen and turned brown, too. This is about a 50/50 chance each year at best. Yesterday tied a record high of 78 degrees here. Hang on for the ride - 100 degrees in June? May? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From Theladygardens@aol.com Thu Mar 9 20:05:06 2006 Message-Id: <1f2.1c69a3f2.31422abe@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Spring? Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 20:05:02 EST Had to look up Iris tigridia, it is beautiful. We are having the same problem here in No CA. Our early peach tree bloomed and everything froze without setting one peach. We are expecting a freeze tonight but luckily everything else isn't blooming yet, but getting ready to. Wayne is so excited about his fruit trees that he is really disappointed that we won't get one peach on the early Alberta. He also walks the garden daily looking for bees. He put out mason bee houses last week. I finally got some gourd seeds in the mail to you, sorry it took me so long. The School Garden Workshop was a huge success but consumed my life. I still have paperwork to fill out and receipts to turn in. Glad it is over. Now arranging the scheduling for the SF Flower and Garden Show that begins next Wednesday. Carolyn Craft From Theladygardens@aol.com Thu Mar 9 20:16:18 2006 Message-Id: <1f4.1c6b7a38.31422d5e@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: oops again Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 20:16:14 EST sorry I sent a message to the entire group! Have to slow down and pay attention to what I am doing. Carolyn From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Fri Mar 10 00:13:36 2006 Message-Id: <003601c64400$62eb14a0$5d758b90@r2p1i1> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Spring? Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 13:06:26 +0800 In Western Australia the seasons seem very late this year, should have all the hot weather in January (mid summer) - now its Autumn we are getting the hot 40 degrees (100ish F) cheers Angela ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Waddick" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 3:41 AM Subject: [pbs] Spring? > Dear friends; > With more than a month to average last frost, the "spring' > garden has gone bonkers way ahead of schedule. > Within the last few days I have seen signs more typical or > April than of March -and some actually began in Feb.! > > Iris (Juno) 'Sindpers' opened its first flower and most other > Junos are up and a few show buds. > > Daffodils- Not just the early ones like 'Rynveld's Early > Sensation ' (which was way earlier and got severely frosted) but > later ones like 'Ice Follies' and 'Gigantic Star' as well as > Campernelle and N obvallaris. > > Drancuculusvulgaris is up and emerging from its sheaths . > > Iris tigridia in flower (mid-end of April?) Reticulatas past peak. > > Crocus almost all done except for big vernus cvs liike > Pickwick and such. The smaller earlier sieberi and Tommies are about > done already! > > Cyclamen coum beyond peak-already. Anemone blanda starting up. > > And tree, shrubs and herbaceous perennials are all budding up > and expanding like it is the end of April. This is seriously > dangerous as we are readily subject to temps down to the teens before > Mid April. We can have an odd snow in May! I just hope we don't get > the possible freeze damage ahead. > > Our earliest Magnolia (M. zennii) has had all of its flowers > frozen and turned brown, too. This is about a 50/50 chance each year > at best. > > Yesterday tied a record high of 78 degrees here. Hang on for > the ride - 100 degrees in June? May? > > Best Jim W. > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From ashley.cooper@new.co.za Fri Mar 10 13:47:52 2006 Message-Id: <00d101c64473$14b6cd10$147fef9b@mykecbcb148b69> From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" Subject: Spring? Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 20:47:22 +0200 That's pretty normal in South Africa as well! My American wife, Meryl, from Florida, always tells my that about December 21, the longest day of the year, is the start of summer and I am starting to believe her as it's hitting 40ºC many days lately here in March in the Western Cape - Tulbagh. ----- Original Message ----- From: Angela and Dean Offer To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 7:06 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Spring? In Western Australia the seasons seem very late this year, should have all the hot weather in January (mid summer) - now its Autumn we are getting the hot 40 degrees (100ish F) cheers Angela ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Waddick" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 3:41 AM Subject: [pbs] Spring? > Dear friends; > With more than a month to average last frost, the "spring' > garden has gone bonkers way ahead of schedule. > Within the last few days I have seen signs more typical or > April than of March -and some actually began in Feb.! > > Iris (Juno) 'Sindpers' opened its first flower and most other > Junos are up and a few show buds. > > Daffodils- Not just the early ones like 'Rynveld's Early > Sensation ' (which was way earlier and got severely frosted) but > later ones like 'Ice Follies' and 'Gigantic Star' as well as > Campernelle and N obvallaris. > > Drancuculusvulgaris is up and emerging from its sheaths . > > Iris tigridia in flower (mid-end of April?) Reticulatas past peak. > > Crocus almost all done except for big vernus cvs liike > Pickwick and such. The smaller earlier sieberi and Tommies are about > done already! > > Cyclamen coum beyond peak-already. Anemone blanda starting up. > > And tree, shrubs and herbaceous perennials are all budding up > and expanding like it is the end of April. This is seriously > dangerous as we are readily subject to temps down to the teens before > Mid April. We can have an odd snow in May! I just hope we don't get > the possible freeze damage ahead. > > Our earliest Magnolia (M. zennii) has had all of its flowers > frozen and turned brown, too. This is about a 50/50 chance each year > at best. > > Yesterday tied a record high of 78 degrees here. Hang on for > the ride - 100 degrees in June? May? > > Best Jim W. > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From dkramb@badbear.com Sat Mar 11 14:29:42 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20060311142932.01d271f8@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Spring? Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2006 14:30:05 -0500 At 02:41 PM 3/9/2006, you wrote: >Dear friends; > With more than a month to average last frost, the "spring' >garden has gone bonkers way ahead of schedule. Mine's not bonkers, but maybe soon! I'm getting all the same weather as you. :-) Dennis in Cincinnati From aroidjoe@gmail.com Sat Mar 11 22:09:25 2006 Message-Id: From: "Joe Dana" Subject: Anouncing the North American Clivia Society show and sale Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2006 19:09:25 -0800 Dear Pacific Bulb Society members: I would please like to announce the North American Clivia Society annual show and sale this coming Saturday March 18 at the Huntington Library and Botanic Garden 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, California 91108 The show is open to the public between 12:00 and 5:00 Entry fee applies only to entering the Huntington. There is no charge for the show. There will also be an excellent round of speakers as well lunch and dinner for those who choose to attend the symposium portion of the show. It's not too late to register! There will also be a round of tours visiting important private collections, Quail Botanic Garden as well Booman Floral which is a large wholesale producer with over 300,000 square foot of greenhouse space. Please check out the North American Clivia Society web site at northamericancliviasociety.org This will supply all information needed as well cost of attending the symposium portion of the show. HOPE TO SEE YOU THERE! Thank You, Joe Dana North American Clivia Society show committee From msittner@mcn.org Sun Mar 12 15:02:24 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060312115432.01ef99d8@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: OT: Warning on Mulch -- USA Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 12:02:07 -0800 Dear All, I try to stay on topic as much as I can, but have gotten a couple of emails from respected garden writers that are concerned about the spread of Formosan subterranean termites. It seems like it might be worthwhile to pass this on. I'd not think it would be a problem for countries outside the United States. Here was the first message: If you use mulch around your house be very careful about buying mulch this year. After the hurricane in New Orleans many trees were blown over. These trees were then turned into mulch and the state is trying to get rid of tons and tons of this mulch to any state or company who will come and haul it away. So it will be showing up in Home Depot and Lowes at dirt cheap prices with one huge problem; Formosan Termites will be the bonus in many of those bags. New Orleans is one of the few areas in the country where the Formosan Termites have gotten a strong hold, and most of the trees blown down were already badly infested with those termites. Now we may have the worst case that we have ever had of transporting a problem to all parts of the country. These termites can eat a house in no time at all and we have no good control against them, so tell your friends that own homes to avoid cheap mulch and know where it came from. And a second message had this link for more information about these termites: http://www.lsuagcenter.com/en/environment/insects/Termites/formosan_termites/Formosan+Subterranean+Termites.htm Mary Sue From susanann@sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 12 15:50:50 2006 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: OT: Warning on Mulch -- USA/urban legend Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 12:50:44 -0800 **This warning is being circulated around the internet. It's an urban legend. See http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/termites.asp for the scoop. s. >Dear All, > >I try to stay on topic as much as I can, but have gotten a couple of emails >from respected garden writers that are concerned about the spread of >Formosan subterranean termites. It seems like it might be worthwhile to >pass this on. I'd not think it would be a problem for countries outside the >United States. > >Here was the first message: >If you use mulch around your house be very careful about buying mulch this >year. After the hurricane in >New Orleans many trees were blown over. These trees were then turned into >mulch and the state is trying to >get rid of tons and tons of this mulch to any state or company who will >come and haul it away. So it will be >showing up in Home Depot and Lowes at dirt cheap prices with one huge >problem; Formosan Termites will >be the bonus in many of those bags. New Orleans is one of the few areas in >the country where the Formosan >Termites have gotten a strong hold, and most of the trees blown down were >already badly infested with >those termites. Now we may have the worst case that we have ever had of >transporting a problem to all parts >of the country. These termites can eat a house in no time at all and we >have no good control against them, >so tell your friends that own homes to avoid cheap mulch and know where it >came from. -- susan, who is..... owned by Jasper & Schubert the Standard Poodles, Gracie the Rhodesian, Pup-Quiz the Basenji and their Basenji brother, Jones.... on the North Coast of CA, USA susanann@sbcglobal.net, copyright 2006 From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Mar 12 16:04:36 2006 Message-Id: <44148CE2.8010609@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: OT: Warning on Mulch -- USA/urban legend Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 16:04:34 -0500 I did receive note from the Garden Writer's Association of America stating that this termite scare is a hoax. Arnold From msittner@mcn.org Sun Mar 12 16:49:21 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060312134440.01e96a78@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: OT: Warning on Mulch -- USA/urban legend Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 13:49:14 -0800 So sorry to pass this on. I almost always check for hoaxes and urban legends before I send them on. Next time I'll be more vigilant. It looks like the garden writers group didn't get to the two people who wrote to me. Mary Sue From gardenersview@earthlink.net Sun Mar 12 16:58:18 2006 Message-Id: From: "Terry Hernstrom" Subject: OT: Warning on Mulch -- USA/urban legend Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 13:58:16 -0800 Hoax or no hoax I have always tried to dissuade homeowners from applying mulch around the foundation of the house. After years even months all sorts of critters gather to breed. On a consult a few years ago, a client complaining about critters in the house. Lo and behold the dreaded mulch and to make matters worse it was applied over black plastic. I had never seen such colonies of termites, sow bugs and earwigs to name a few! Not good. Terence Hernstrom Director, Gardens & Grounds Kimberly Crest House and Gardens Redland(where it cold, snowy, hailing) Southern California, Global Warming huh! -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Arnold Trachtenberg Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 1:05 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] OT: Warning on Mulch -- USA/urban legend I did receive note from the Garden Writer's Association of America stating that this termite scare is a hoax. Arnold _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From rvanderhoff@sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 12 18:35:25 2006 Message-Id: <20060312233524.59121.qmail@web81009.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ron Vanderhoff Subject: OT: Warning on Mulch -- USA/urban legend Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 15:35:24 -0800 (PST) Here's a USDA website called the "National Invasive Species Information Center" disclaiming the Formosan termite claims. http://www.invasivespeciesinfo.gov/animals/fst.shtml Ron Vanderhoff In coastal southern California where the snow level fell to 1,500 feet yesterday. Brrrr. From susanann@sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 12 19:18:41 2006 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: OT: Warning on Mulch -- USA/urban legend Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 16:18:35 -0800 At 3:35 PM -0800 3/12/06, Ron Vanderhoff wrote: > Ron Vanderhoff > In coastal southern California where the snow level fell to 1,500 >feet yesterday. Brrrr. **And in north Northern coastal CA, snow level is at 500 feet. We got so much hail it looked like snow covering the ground. Not a happy event for my bulbs or my more temperate shrubs. s. -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17. 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek of the ocean. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Mar 12 20:15:40 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060312170808.010f83d8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Bulbs in the snow Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 17:15:36 -0800 Susan Hayek wrote,**And in north Northern coastal CA, snow level is at 500 feet. We got >so much hail it looked like snow covering the ground. >Not a happy event for my bulbs or my more temperate shrubs. I'm up around 1600 feet in northern Oregon, and there's plenty of snow on the ground right now. It's clearing, too, which means a cold night. That happened 2 nights ago, and in the morning some of the bulbs in my frames looked rather puny, with darkened foliage and drooping stems, but by midday today they had all perked up. A few weeks ago we had temperatures in the teens with a ferocious east wind, during which I put microfoam blankets over the bulbs and preserved them all, as far as I've noticed. I don't put on the blankets (a tedious process with more than a thousand square feet of frame area) unless I think the temperature is going to drop below 25 F. So far the worst damage I've noticed is loss of buds on the early-flowering magnolias, but time will tell which marginal shrubs have been damaged or killed. Last weekend, at the NARGS Winter Study Weekend in Victoria, a certain speaker known for "zone denial" was going on about how well various woody plants had survived the recent freeze, and someone sitting near me commented that he had no right to say that so soon after the freeze. Quite right! It takes a while to see the real results of low temperature in winter. I am not counting my hebes until I see them next July. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA Sunset Zone 4, USDA zone unfathomable since on the map I'm on the border between Z8 and Z1! From susanann@sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 12 21:11:14 2006 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: Bulbs in the snow Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 18:07:21 -0800 >woody plants had survived the recent freeze, and someone sitting near me >commented that he had no right to say that so soon after the freeze. Quite >right! It takes a while to see the real results of low temperature in >winter. I am not counting my hebes until I see them next July. **heheheheheh. My species fuchsias are looking pretty sad, same with my tall impatiens. The cannas and colocasia are down to the ground and even my tree dahlias got frozen pretty badly. I slipped out on the cold nights and covered the Lachenalias with towels, most of them are looking good. Not so for the night blooming jessamines (Cestrum), or the Brugmansias sitting out in the open (the ones under shelters did fine). Time will tell, indeed. Some plants will come back from the roots. s. -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17. 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek of the ocean. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon Mar 13 14:53:31 2006 Message-Id: <8ad4fbb55d592bddd04a41ec5db69b12@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Bulbs in the snow Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 11:53:29 -0800 On Mar 12, 2006, at 6:07 PM, Susan Hayek wrote: >> woody plants had survived the recent freeze, and someone sitting near >> me >> commented that he had no right to say that so soon after the freeze. >> Quite >> right! It takes a while to see the real results of low temperature in >> winter. I am not counting my hebes until I see them next July. > > **heheheheheh. > > My species fuchsias are looking pretty sad, same with my tall > impatiens. > The cannas and colocasia are down to the ground and even my tree > dahlias got frozen pretty badly. > > I slipped out on the cold nights and covered the Lachenalias with > towels, most of them are looking good. > This is the coldest it has been all winter. This is more typical of January cold weather. The weather service says the last time it got this cold this late in the year in California was back in 1896. A few leaves on my bananas got radiation frosted and look dead, but none of the bulbs show any sign that they minded the weather even though we have had frost on the lawn and the cars every morning for the past few days. (The air temperature was only in the mid- to high-30s °F at night.) --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a From dells@voicenet.com Mon Mar 13 15:19:16 2006 Message-Id: <20060313201916.E06734C012@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Bulbs in the snow Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 15:19:31 -0500 At the same time, here in SE Pennsylvania, our temperature is threatening to reach 80F today. That should do a thorough job of shortening the lives of my crocuses. The C. chrysanthus and tommasinianus are in full bloom along with Iris reticulata. Galanthus elwesii is almost done, and Eranthis hyemalis basically gone. I am planning a visit to Longwood Gardens tomorrow to see the early bulbs - I fear I have missed them. Well, the clivias should be good. Best regards, Dell -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Lee Poulsen Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 2:53 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Bulbs in the snow On Mar 12, 2006, at 6:07 PM, Susan Hayek wrote: >> woody plants had survived the recent freeze, and someone sitting near >> me >> commented that he had no right to say that so soon after the freeze. >> Quite >> right! It takes a while to see the real results of low temperature in >> winter. I am not counting my hebes until I see them next July. > > **heheheheheh. > > My species fuchsias are looking pretty sad, same with my tall > impatiens. > The cannas and colocasia are down to the ground and even my tree > dahlias got frozen pretty badly. > > I slipped out on the cold nights and covered the Lachenalias with > towels, most of them are looking good. > This is the coldest it has been all winter. This is more typical of January cold weather. The weather service says the last time it got this cold this late in the year in California was back in 1896. A few leaves on my bananas got radiation frosted and look dead, but none of the bulbs show any sign that they minded the weather even though we have had frost on the lawn and the cars every morning for the past few days. (The air temperature was only in the mid- to high-30s °F at night.) --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Mon Mar 13 15:41:26 2006 Message-Id: <4235F55F.E96A3B9C@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Weather Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 20:41:26 -0000 Dear All: Here in the Bay area we have had quite a bit of snow. Last Saturday morning, at 2.00 AM, there was rain at the south end of the Waldo tunnel just above sausalito and at the north end the cars emerged into 6+ inches of snow over black ice. The result was a pile up of 28 cars, all now total wrecks, 2 people killed, and the 101 was closed for ome 20 hours north bound, and for many hours south bound as well, as emergncy vehicles had to use the lanes to evacuate the injured. What a mess, what an unusual sight to see, right down on the waterline, snow piled on cars in the morning. Not too much damage to my bulbs, in fact many of my Callas, Iphion, Narcissus, Cyclamen, & Crocus seem to like the cold as they are still flowering well and lasting for much longer than usual. Dutch iris in flower, Gladiolus growing well, but what is next? Cheers, John E. Bryan From jimmckenney@starpower.net Mon Mar 13 16:07:10 2006 Message-Id: <001801c646e2$17db2970$98012c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Bulbs in the snow Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 16:07:09 -0500 The threat Dell mentioned has been realized here in Maryland. We have had temperatures into the low 80s F today. This has fried the flowers on Iris rosenbachiana, and Fritillaria raddeana will probably lose its earliest blooms today, too. The air is warm and moist and full of the scent of burgeoning vegetation. Magnolia stellata is in full, potently fragrant bloom, and sweet violets are blooming in the garden. We have all the doors and windows open, we're enjoying the sound of the wind chimes, and the house already has the fragrance of summer. The goldfish are darting around in the pond, and the first waterlily leaves are up. It's a nice change to be able to go outside and feel the hot sun. Spring peepers have been in full chorus here for several days. Turn your back and something comes into bloom. One big surprise today: Oxalis 'Garnet' is blooming: it must like the heat. I've been examining this plant daily for weeks and didn't see this coming. On the other hand, Corydalis popovii popped into bloom a few days ago and almost overnight the first flowers were gone. A second flush appeared today - or at least they were there this morning. Will this be the year we have a killing frost in May? Or are we going to break the 100 degree mark a few times this summer? Stay tuned... Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the temperature has been over 80 degrees F for the last six hours: fried bulbs, anyone? From dells@voicenet.com Mon Mar 13 16:20:17 2006 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 116 Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 16:21:02 -0500 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 116" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash, check, or Paypal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: .... Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com . If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 429, New Hope, PA, 18938, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Uli Urban: 1. Seed of Pancratium canariense (See a separate post about this seed.) From Hans Joschko: 2. Seed of Zephyranthes citrina 3. Seed of Zephyranthes sp, from seed wild-collected in Argentina From Jim Shields: Small bulbs: 4. Nerine gracilis 5. Nerine filifolia 6. Nerine angulata 7. Nerine platypetala 8. Nerine (filifolia x krigei) 9. Nerine filamentosa 10. Nerine bowdenii Thank you, Uli, Hans, and Jim !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From dells@voicenet.com Mon Mar 13 16:24:40 2006 Message-Id: <20060313212439.03F474C012@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: About Uli's Pancratium canariense seed Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 16:24:52 -0500 Pancratium canariense is an endemic of the (endemic-rich) flora of the Canary Islands, off the north western coast of Africa. The climate is a mediterranean type climate but much influenced by altitude and wind factor. Pancratium canariense grows on north facing slopes in good light but not exposed to hot burning sun neither experiencing baking drought. It likes to grow in fertile soil between rocks and shrubs, the Canaries are of volcanic origin. It forms quite large bulbs (12-15cm diameter) with a short neck and has glaucous leaves and looks like a Hippeastrum. The inflorescence is a multiflowered umbel of fairly large white scented flowers. The plant is winter growing and summer dormant (northern hemisphere) and does not tolerate frost. It should be very good for coastal Californian gardens in the fog belt. The seed is fresh and should be sown immediately, due to the postage is is perhaps a good idea to soak it in water for 24 hours before sowing. My own seed has given an almost 100% germination rate sown straight from the pod. Uli From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Mon Mar 13 16:48:14 2006 Message-Id: <005e01c646e7$d25d08e0$01321b56@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Bulbs in the snow Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 21:48:09 -0000 Unlike the balmy warmth of Maryland so poetically described by Jim McKenney, the British Isles are still in the grip of a protracted winter, with heavy snowfall across much of the north and west. I was staying in Herefordshire on Saturday night and woke up to find a white blanket and heavy snow falling over the garden. There was no chance of seeing the snowdrops there and a cautious retreat had to be made. Here the snowdrops are still forming white carpets, and many are at their very peak; yet others are still in bud. Only the earliest of daffodils are in flower, and the hellebores are still mostly in bud, or with just the first flowers expanded. I have seen no Magnolia in flower at all, and as for goldfish and waterlily leaves... John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Tel. 01242 870567 Spring open days 2006 Mothering Sunday 26 March Easter weekend 15-16-17 April May Day Bank Holiday Plant Sale 1 May Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk From dkramb@badbear.com Mon Mar 13 18:10:42 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20060313181019.01b19ec0@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Bulbs in the snow Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 18:10:49 -0500 >Will this be the year we have a killing frost in May? Or are we going to >break the 100 degree mark a few times this summer? Does majority vote get to decide? If only! Dennis in Cincy (where it got to 71 deg F today) From arnold@nj.rr.com Tue Mar 14 07:24:53 2006 Message-Id: <4416B5B3.6070201@nj.rr.com> From: arnold trachtenberg Subject: Spring? Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 07:23:15 -0500 Here in New Jersey Crocus dalmaticus is up and had the flowers promptly eaten by a visiting squirrel. Colchicum szowitsii "Vardaovit" and colchicum kesselringii have flowers open. I started covering the blooms with a glass bell jar to protect from our spring rains and wind and they have held up much better. Normally the flowers are well beaten by the weather. Snowdrops have been up for weeks now along with appearance of lycoris foliage. Arnold From Dpescadera@aol.com Tue Mar 14 09:18:05 2006 Message-Id: From: Dpescadera@aol.com Subject: Spring? Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 09:17:42 EST We have had snow down to the 400 ft. elevation here in Carmel-by-the-Sea, California--plus hail and rain. Has anyone read or reviewed Rod Leeds' Autumn Bulbs. New York (NY): Sterling Pub., 2006. ISBN 0713489626? If it was reviewed, and I missed it, don't worry. Best wishes from the rainy coast, Diana From irisman@ameritech.net Tue Mar 14 14:42:37 2006 Message-Id: <000d01c6479f$2d0ee1c0$5ad8fea9@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: weather and bulbs Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 13:40:40 -0600 Hello all-- Here in the Chicago area we MIGHT make it to 41° F today. Lycoris aurea just emerging from the ground. L. radiata were up earlier when it got warm for a week back in January, now frosted brown. My galanthus haven't come up yet. Fritillaria michailowskii just showing above ground. Ground still frozen at 8" down, but snow is melted. Most daffodils up about 2 1/2" except species which are not showing. Much colder than the rest of you. Probaly warmer in Anchorage as it has been more than once during this winter. For us it's been a relatively warm winter. Only two days at 0° F. Adam in Glenview, IL Z 5a From jimmckenney@starpower.net Tue Mar 14 17:17:49 2006 Message-Id: <000b01c647b5$203896b0$d2022c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Tulip season 2006 underway here in Maryland Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 17:17:43 -0500 The 2006 tulip season opened here today with Tulipa kaufmanniana. Although I've known or grown tulips under this name for as long as any, I've never been too sure what the original Tulipa kaufmanniana was. Books of over a century ago already mention yellow and red variants, presumably collected rather than hybridized in cultivation. The plant which has been sold as Tulipa kaufmanniana during my lifetime is evidently only one clone among many which might bear the name. During the last quarter century collections from the wild suggest that hybridization in the wild is common (or that our current nomenclature is much in need of revision). This commonly grown garden clone of Tulipa kauffmanniana - the one with white flowers with a pinkish red smudge on the exterior of the outer tepal - comes into bloom more quickly than any other tulip I know. You look at it one day, and you see foliage with maybe a bud deep down among the leaves. You look a bit later, and the bud has stretched up, but not enlarged much, and has started to show color. Wait a bit, and the still small bud has become greenish white with a vague pink blush and now overtops the foliage. If the day is warm, the bud, still small, will open. The next day the open flower will be a bit bigger, but not much. But throughout the day it will get bigger, until it reaches its full size and color. Each year, when I first see the tiny flower in its early stages, I think my stocks are becoming run down. It's a fascinating performance, and one which always surprises me. Lots of other tulips also show buds, but none seems close to bloom. Last year my tulips were hit hard by botrytis; I've got my eyes peeled for signs of it this year. I hope none of you was moved to envy by my weather report from yesterday. Yes, it was an exceptionally fine day. I sat out until late in the evening under the pergola reading and writing in my garden diary. The warm soft air was full of the scents of magnolias, sweet violets, new growth and the deeply moving scent of the soil itself. But today the theme will be misery likes company. Temperatures for the rest of the week are not predicted to go above the mid 50s F; and powerful winds are raking the garden and making work outside unpleasant. The good news is that the comparatively low temperatures will preserve any flowers now in bloom; the bad news is the possibility of overnight freezes. The star magnolias are in full bloom: they are a proven frost magnet. Many herbaceous peonies are well up: flower buds on Paeonia mascula are the size of a marble already. Lilium hansonii and its hybrids are well out of the ground. Cardiocrinium cordatum (but not C. giganteum) has expanded leaves up. Snowdrops and winter aconites are about over (except for Eranthis Guinea Gold which is always late here; one of its parents, E. cilicica is also in bloom). The early reticulate irises are taking a beating in the wind. Scilla and Chionodoxa are making patches of blue here and there, and garden hyacinths should be open soon. Gladiolus byzantinus (the name is dubious) is well up, and some Muscari already have fully formed inflorescences. Eremurus have new foliage a foot long, and near a wall Fritillaria bucharica has joined F. raddeana in bloom. Alberto, if you are reading this, be glad to know that your namesake Ipheion was sweetly scented yesterday. So in many cases we've already passed the point of no return. Bird song has increased dramatically during the last two weeks; and unlike plants, birds seem to pay little attention to the weather. At this time of year, rain or shine they sing. Cardinals, titmice, chickadees, song sparrows, robins, Carolina wrens, mourning doves, red-tailed and red-shouldered hawks all have something to say at this time of year. In the background of all of this, woodpeckers can be heard chortling and tapping. A pileated woodpecker let loose with its staccato whoop yesterday. When I walk the dog in the morning - generally before 7 A.M. - we (the dog watches them, too) have been seeing and hearing Vs of geese in the sky. One the other day was very lopsided: about fifteen geese on one side and maybe fifty on the other: what an amazing sound! It's been glorious so far. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I think I heard a toad splashing around in the pond last night. From dells@voicenet.com Wed Mar 15 07:46:32 2006 Message-Id: <20060315124632.986D84C013@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX 116 CLOSED Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 07:46:48 -0500 Everything has been claimed. Packages should be in the mail after the weekend. Enjoy, Dell Dell Sherk, Director, PBS BX From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Mar 16 13:57:31 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Variegated Gladiolus Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 12:51:35 -0600 Dear All; I have previously admitted my addiction to plants with variegated foliage; any kinds from trees to annual and especially bulbs. Does any know or grow, even seen a picture of a Gladiolus with variegated foliage? I have a mix of hardy Glads mostly G. italicus and selections (comunis, byzantinus etc.),. One plant has just sent up its first leaf very distinctly adorned with half dozen bright yellow stripes. I doubt this will last, but it got me thinking. After searching my variegated library and the WWW I found nothing. Appreciate any vague recollections or solid info. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jshields@indy.net Thu Mar 16 23:23:44 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060316202234.01e8ca00@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Meeting of Midwest Clivia group Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 20:24:39 -0800 Dear Friends and Clivia Lovers, We will have a clivia get-together at my place, Westfield, Indiana, on Saturday, April 1st. We will have a buffet lunch at noon in our home. The greenhouses will be open before and after. Approximate hours, 10 AM - 4 PM. Bring your best clivia plants to display or sell or trade. We hope to have a fresh shipment of Solomone Clivia plants in bud or bloom on display. We will talk about the NACS Clivia Show and meeting being held this Saturday here in Pasadena, California. We can also discuss plans for travel to South Africa in September for the International Clivia Conference in Pretoria on Sept. 3-4-5. For more information, contact me after we return from the NACS annual show and meeting; we should be home on Monday night, March 20th. Best wishes, Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jeanbrian@earthlink.net Fri Mar 17 21:45:37 2006 Message-Id: From: jeanbrian@earthlink.net Subject: Clivia Question Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 18:48:40 -0800 I discovered recently (after living next door for many years) that my next-door neighbor who died awhile ago had a very sizable clivia population. I discovered it because the person who bought the house after she died ripped out nearly every plant of value, leaving the clivias open to view. He's not a bad man, but terribly, terribly ignorant with respect to plants. I think I could easily talk him into letting me divide the clivias and take some for myself. However, I'm ignorant myself about clivias and am wondering whether there is anything special I need to know about dividing them, soil requirements, planting them, and so on. Jean San Francisco From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun Mar 19 16:44:17 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Clivia Question Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 15:14:30 -0600 Dear Jean; Considering the circumstances, I suggest you get what you can now and worry about replanting when they are in your hands. There's plenty of info on the web. Do a google search for "planting Clivia" -you'll get over 18,000 hits. Good luck with your neighbor. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun Mar 19 16:44:20 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Weather and bulbs Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 15:22:56 -0600 Dear All; Just a note of frustration due to the very odd weather this year. We are a few days from the official first day of spring, but I'd say we are already in mid-to late Daffodil season with most early bulbs (from Reticultata iris to Aconites and Crocus finished) and other mid season bulbs starting up (Chinodoxa, Early tulips). We've had two hard freezes(near 0 F) that have caused damage to foliage and flower buds. Now everything is swelling buds from peonies to redbuds and a forecast calls for lows of between 19 and 12F. Fritillaria persica is up and flower buds are emerging from foliage and beginning to color up. Dracunculus has foliage emerging from the sheaths. Camassia are almost in full foliage. Glads are up a foot or so. Can they take temps in the teens? This year's roller coaster weather is more extreme than usual. I'd estimate 90% loss of hellebore flowers and 10 - 30% loss of daffodils from frozen buds, frozen stems, 1 inch plus hail and heavy snow fall. Things are up and blooming way off schedule and the results is already a pitiful bloom season. From stormy Kansas City Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sun Mar 19 17:31:06 2006 Message-Id: <000001c64ba4$cf512840$b3002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Weather and bulbs Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 17:31:03 -0500 My condolences to Jim Waddick and others who are on the receiving end of this year's bizarre and bad weather conditions. A ninety percent loss of hellebore flowers and ten to thirty percent loss of daffodil flowers are losses I've never experienced - and never want to experience. We've had overnight drops into the mid-twenties, but those lows were not extended enough to do significant damage. For instance, Magnolia stellata, caught more or less in full bloom, shows only slight browning here and there. Dracunculus vulgaris, which is over a foot out of the ground, shows no damage. Temperatures in that range have no discernable effect on hellebores, daffodils and other early risers. I can count tree peony flower buds now, and they are not damaged by these temperatures either. Incidentally, Jim Waddick's zone 5 Kansas City garden seems to be on about the same schedule as my zone 7 Montgomery County, Maryland garden. Jim McKenney From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sun Mar 19 17:41:23 2006 Message-Id: <000101c64ba6$3f00cff0$b3002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Gymnospermium in distress: help! Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 17:41:20 -0500 Gymnospermium altaicum, which emerged with strength and has been above ground for weeks, is showing a problem. The foliage, which is distinctly glaucous, has taken on a vaguely yellow tinge. I take that as a sign of root distress. I dumped the plant out of its pot yesterday and noticed that the potting medium was soggy. Evidently I made a big mistake when I prepared the potting mix. I remember using my usual lean mix but amending it with some peat or loam for this plant: Big mistake! The tuber and roots seem OK, but the roots are short. Here's something interesting: the soil around the tuber when it was turned out - and the tuber itself - felt distinctly warm to the touch. Are these plants like some aroids: do they generate their own heat? The plant was repotted in a very lean mix, roughly 4/5 crushed granite and 1/5 organic material to hold some moisture. Some powdered dolomite was added. The foliage looks worse today. Was it a mistake to repot it now? Do these plants tolerate root disturbance when in growth? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where evidently I don't need the weather to kill my plants. I do quite well on my own, thank you. From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Mar 19 17:57:19 2006 Message-Id: <441DE1CD.4010205@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Weather and bulbs Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 17:57:17 -0500 Jim: One of my favorite lines about nature. Nature doesn't judge, just convicts" Arnold From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sun Mar 19 18:12:59 2006 Message-Id: <000f01c64baa$a8f09360$b3002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Weather and bulbs Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 18:12:56 -0500 Right, Arnold, and I'm wondering when I'm going to get out of this (weather) jail. Jim McKenney From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Sun Mar 19 21:56:31 2006 Message-Id: <20060320025629.51150.qmail@web34312.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Weather and bulbs Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 18:56:29 -0800 (PST) Hello, And then theres my Z5 garden a half and hour to the south of Jim Waddick. My Narcissus are just starting. Waitieri(?) is showing buds again and as many as 2 dozen seedlings sprouting around it! My Hellebores are in prime bloom with little damage besides some of the flowers losing there sexual bits. Why is my garden so different? Well, we have extremely different soils, i.e. mine is full of limestone bedrock and Jim has no stone. Mine is gummy clay when wet, rock when dry, and only "perfect" soil after the late winter freeze thaw cycle. Jims is Loess, I think. Maybe mine holds the cold in in better or something. Jims slope faces west and mine faces south so we both get the brunt of the suns heat in the winter. No Aroids showing yet. The Magnolia stellata are slightly browned, but when are they not? Not much distance between us but, extremely different timing on the plants. All the best, Aaron Floden Z5 Stilwell, KS --- Jim McKenney wrote: > My condolences to Jim Waddick and others who are on > the receiving end of > this year's bizarre and bad weather conditions. A > ninety percent loss of > hellebore flowers and ten to thirty percent loss of > daffodil flowers are > losses I've never experienced - and never want to > experience. > > Incidentally, Jim Waddick's zone 5 Kansas City > garden seems to be on about > the same schedule as my zone 7 Montgomery County, > Maryland garden. > > Jim McKenney > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Mar 19 22:54:28 2006 Message-Id: <13502016.1142826868007.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: janemcgary@earthlink.net Subject: Gymnospermium in distress: help! Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 19:54:27 -0800 (GMT-08:00) Jim McKenney is right that he should have put his GYmnospermium in a gritty, free-draining mix, but if the tuber has not rotted, very likely it will survive to the next year if he dries it off now. Although beautiful, the foliage of Gymnospermium species is a fleeting pleasure, withering quite4 early in the season. This suggests to me that the plant can survive a year in which the foliage is destroyed by frost or animals. One pot I have of G. sylvaticum was treated badly by our recent snowy weather, but I expect it will survive. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From plantlady@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Sun Mar 19 23:13:29 2006 Message-Id: From: "Linda Foulis" Subject: Weather and bulbs Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 21:15:04 -0700 Our winter up here in Alberta was so mild as to be almost non-existent. When I saw a robin the other day I had to wonder if they had actually left. Nothing showing any signs of growth except a doronicum, I was hoping that some of the early bulbs, crocus, muscari, frits, scilla would be showing something. As I see the spring thaw set in I now wonder if I'll have any bulbs at all. We were told there were natural springs in the hill but really did not give it much thought at the time. I was hard pressed to get everything in the ground from our move. A large portion (almost all) of the bulbs went in behind the retaining wall that starts the beginning of our hill and back yard. Actually our yard is somewhat similar to John Lonsdale's, in slope at any rate. As 'winter' progressed here, we could see the retaining wall being pushed forward, it's only landscaping ties and 4x4's holding back the entire yard. And from the looks of it, probably not done correctly in the first place. Looking for signs of growth I'm instead greeted with standing water in a slew of mud. The water is dripping out between the stairs and the ties, it is almost a flow! We definitely have our work cut out for us taming this new yard. I do fear for my bulbs though, I wonder if anything will survive that muck? Linda Foulis Okotoks, AB Canada Zone 3 Foothills of the Rockies Where I am anxiously waiting to see what has survived the first winter after our move and not having a clue where anything is! From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Mon Mar 20 09:37:05 2006 Message-Id: <52857FDB394B7E45BA1F2E60D7313E2A0324DEE8@cbgmail.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: Weather and bulbs Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 08:37:05 -0600 The weather this year in Chicago reminds me of north-central Texas with wild swings between winter and spring-like weather. The results were (for the 7 years we lived in Ft. Worth) typically a so-so bloom for the spring bulbs and frequently foliar and bud damage. For the first time yesterday I noticed spring flowering Colchicum, Muscari, Galanthus, winter aconites and Crocus all in flower - not in drifts and waves (like they are planted in) but rather as spotty flowers here and there. These are in my home garden. Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 3:23 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Weather and bulbs Dear All; Just a note of frustration due to the very odd weather this year. We are a few days from the official first day of spring, but I'd say we are already in mid-to late Daffodil season with most early bulbs (from Reticultata iris to Aconites and Crocus finished) and other mid season bulbs starting up (Chinodoxa, Early tulips). We've had two hard freezes(near 0 F) that have caused damage to foliage and flower buds. Now everything is swelling buds from peonies to redbuds and a forecast calls for lows of between 19 and 12F. Fritillaria persica is up and flower buds are emerging from foliage and beginning to color up. Dracunculus has foliage emerging from the sheaths. Camassia are almost in full foliage. Glads are up a foot or so. Can they take temps in the teens? This year's roller coaster weather is more extreme than usual. I'd estimate 90% loss of hellebore flowers and 10 - 30% loss of daffodils from frozen buds, frozen stems, 1 inch plus hail and heavy snow fall. Things are up and blooming way off schedule and the results is already a pitiful bloom season. From stormy Kansas City Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From irisman@ameritech.net Mon Mar 20 12:52:34 2006 Message-Id: <002401c64c46$30e84d30$5ad8fea9@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: weather..where we live Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 11:46:17 -0600 Boyce? (and others discussing this difficult weather)-- Boyce is further north than I about 30 miles and somewhat further inland from Lake Michigan. So I'm surprised that his stuff is ahead of mine. His temperatures have been colder. My galanthus are not showing and I'm wondering if they've disapeared. I have a few yellow species crocus blooming. Muscari up about an inch, but no bloom. Fritillaria michailowskii up about 2", a few lycoris (chinensis? and radiata) up about 3-5". Tree peonies still in very tight brown buds and no sign of any speeded growth. Kauffmaniana and Greigii tulips showing. Other species tulips showing above ground and growing. Iris spuria up about 5" . Arilbred hybrid irises slowly growing and increasing in size. Hellebores showing flower buds and new leaf growths, old leaves are totally browned and flat on the ground. Herbaceous peonies not showing above ground. Adam in Glenview. From john@johnlonsdale.net Mon Mar 20 19:20:00 2006 Message-Id: <000e01c64c7d$28ca5710$6501a8c0@DIMENSION8100> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: Gymnospermium in distress: help! Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 19:19:45 -0500 Jim, You did the right thing - left alone it would have rotted out. Under normal circumstances I wouldn't touch them at this time of year, although if you did they'd just go dormant a little prematurely and you lose a bit of growth. Best, J. John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From masterson4@cox.net Wed Mar 22 18:56:39 2006 Message-Id: <005401c64e0c$2bc458e0$6401a8c0@CompaqSR1550> From: "The Mastersons" Subject: Collecting and storing pollen Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 15:56:00 -0800 I am hoping to get some free advice as to how to collect and store pollen from crinums I am hoping to cross with other crinums. I have a few species and would like to try my hand at creating a small Crinum with either grey or very dark leaves. The plants I am hoping to use (Crinum procerum and a low growing species with very grey leaves) do not flower at the same time and I will need to collect and store the pollen. Any help I can get with this I appreciate very much! Mike Masterson Escondido, Ca From jshields@indy.net Wed Mar 22 19:03:37 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060322190123.0218a350@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Collecting and storing pollen Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 19:03:36 -0500 Hi, Basically, remove all the filament from the anther, dry the anther + pollen thoroughly, and store in a freezer in a moisture-proof container. I have some details on my web site at: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/amaryllids/PollenStorage.html Contact me if you have more questions. Jim Shields At 03:56 PM 3/22/2006 -0800, you wrote: >I am hoping to get some free advice as to how to collect and store pollen >from crinums I am hoping to cross with other crinums. I have a few >species and would like to try my hand at creating a small Crinum with >either grey or very dark leaves. The plants I am hoping to use (Crinum >procerum and a low growing species with very grey leaves) do not flower at >the same time and I will need to collect and store the pollen. Any help I >can get with this I appreciate very much! > >Mike Masterson > >Escondido, Ca >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From pacegardens@comcast.net Wed Mar 22 19:07:50 2006 Message-Id: <005701c64e0d$d0ca2d50$6501a8c0@PACE> From: "Glen Pace" Subject: Collecting and storing pollen Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 19:07:46 -0500 Subject: [pbs] Collecting and storing pollen >I am hoping to get some free advice as to how to collect and store pollen >from crinums I am hoping to cross with other crinums. Mike, You can use the link below to go to the section of Jim Shield's site re: Pollen. http://www.shieldsgardens.com/info/Pollen.html I have had excellent luck using this method for Clivia and Crinums. Good luck, Glen Pace Clio, MI zone 5b where nothing is emerging earlier than it is supposed to......Thank Goodness From msittner@mcn.org Thu Mar 23 00:25:19 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060322174747.01f1ed00@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Weather and bulbs Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:25:01 -0800 Dear All, I always enjoy reading about what is blooming where and have been too busy to add the flowering picture for Northern California. It's been wet. The last couple of years I've been lulled into forgetting the norm for where I live since we've only had a little more than 50 inches (1270 mm) of rain during our Mediterranean winters, forgetting when I first moved here those El Nino years when we had twice that amount. I doubt we'll get as much this year as those El Nino years, but it has rained more than the last few years and it doesn't look like it's ready to stop. I'm still keeping my fingers crossed for Bill Dijk's visit next week. I shelter some things in the greenhouse and others are on benches covered on the top, but still getting rain blowing in from the sides. But most of the rest just has to cope. It is one of the ways I guess I'll be curbing my bulb addiction. We've had a little short lasting snow, slush, and hail between the rain so a lot of my bulb leaves by now are looking a little worse for the wear. And there are pots that get carried back and forth to a bit more shelter when they are in bloom or it looks like we'll have freezing temperatures. Reading some of your other reports however makes me realize that it could be worse. One thing we do have is a much longer time for things to bloom. Narcissus is an example. I don't grow a lot of the gorgeous hybrids because my garden isn't very sunny and they just disappear. But a number of years ago in an IBS BX Bill Dijk sent a number of species from New Zealand that I eventually turned around to my hemisphere and they start blooming in the late fall and continue so I've had one species or another in bloom since October. Narcissus jonquilla and Narcissus bulbocodium var. tenufolius are blooming at the moment. The same long time for blooming is true for Cyclamen. They start blooming late summer and continue. C. repandum, C. balericum, and C. creticum are blooming at the moment and there are still a few C. coum and C. pseuibericum in bloom as well. Some species can bloom for many many months. Muscari species sometimes start to bloom really early (October-November), take a break if it gets really cold, and then start up again in February and March. Since you have been writing about Helleborus, I always thought they would need a lot of water, but then I heard Wayne Roderick say they could stand dry summers. Terry Hatch gave me seed when I went to New Zealand and some of the resultant plants now are quite spectacular with so many beautiful flowers. And they really do survive without much summer water. One plant that I have loved since I got it from Jane McGary a number of years ago is Hyacinthoides italica. I haven't heard a lot of praise for it although Jerry Flintoff did describe it in his Scilla intro. to the topic of the week. It appears to be considered a Scilla by some. I've added some pictures to the wiki so others might learn to appreciate it too. Jerry wrote that Hyacinthoides replaces its bulbs every year and that this species can naturalize. They seem like big bulbs to get replaced. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Hyacinthoides My tulips are blooming now. They were one of my first bulb loves and I still love them. My large collection of South African bulbs are not all happy with the extra rain. Many of my Lachenalias (sheltered from the rain) have sickly leaves, but some are still blooming. There are a number like L. mutabilis that I can grow in the ground and they are blooming now. Even though I sterilize soil I reuse by heating it and then mix it with new soil when I repot bulbs, there are some things that don't seem to be killed by excessive heat and so I have them coming up in unexpected places. It could be those things that have tiny offsets that I miss when I repot. I have Geissorhiza inaequalis everywhere and a lot of Gladiolus tristis too and lots of Oxalis. Unlike some that dwindle this Geissorhiza is quite tough for me, tolerating all the rain without much problem. When it became clear we were going to get rain almost every day for a long time I picked some Freesia alba (I have many hundreds now in my garden) and some of the Gladiolus tristis. Walking through my garden on days when it is not raining and the temperature is not too cold the fragrance from the Freesia is wonderful and even rain in between doesn't stop that although the flowers get a bit trodden down. I never notice the Gladiolus fragrance since it happens at night, but when I picked it and brought it inside, for many nights, the house was filled with its fragrance too. Many of the Romuleas I grow are long blooming, opening when it isn't raining. Sparaxis is blooming now; some are a bit ratty from the weather. And there are Moraea aristata plants in bloom all over the place and Moraea tripetala is just now blooming too. I'm reaching the long point or did much sooner when people will stop reading what I am writing, but want to announce some exciting first blooms in the last month or so. I was set to toss my Sprekelia since it never blooms. I was trying to decide if I'd try a deep black pot first when I noticed a spike on a plant Lee Poulsen talked me into buying ('Orient Red') at the Huntington, I think in 2002. It's a cultivar he said would bloom better than the species and since my species plants have never bloomed that now has proved to be true. The one flower was spectacular and I brought it inside so I could enjoy it as it rained outside during the whole time it was in bloom. Fritillaria messanensis grown from seed sown in 1999 is in bloom at the moment. I had to figure out what it was since I had given up on it long ago. There's just the one flower and the one plant. The others must have gone to bulb heaven long ago. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/EuropeanFritillaria#messanensis Tecophilaea cyanocrocus var. violacea also started in 1999 has finally bloomed (one flower). Tecophilaeas, if they bloom, are not in bloom for long although the different forms do bloom different months. It can't be considered much of a star bulb for me, but I was pleased this one finally bloomed. Erythronium helenae from seed started in 2001 and some from Jane via the BX both have bloomed a long time (starting in January) and have coped with the rain too. And, sound the trumpets, my Paramongia which I was sure would never ever bloom, is trying to do just that. I tried to make it summer growing after Alberto said that was when it grew in nature, but it just wouldn't grow that way. I tried it in my greenhouse hoping it would have more heat that way and it didn't seem to have enough light. So I put it outside and it definitely didn't seem to like all the rain. So it has resided next to my covered benches and I move it away from the rain during our rainy periods and out in the sun otherwise. The leaves by now are not very attractive, but I'm sure when the flowers open I'll manage to seem and not the leaves. I'm hoping it will be open when Bill arrives next week since I bought it from him in 2002 when he visited in Pasadena. In the ground there are hundreds of Moraea (Homeria subgroup) leaves (my husband called them thugs today) and Babiana leaves too so I expect to have another amazing display of both of them too. I finally got a Moraea comptonii (orange) grown from seed to bloom. I've tried before without much luck. It appears to be one of those species that only flowers briefly. I managed to get a picture of one between storms and have added it to the wiki. I've been enjoying Babianas between storms for months now. B. villosa and B. secunda are in bloom at the moment. And I have nice Delphiniums blooming. I tried planting a few species in one of my raised bed octagons when I redid it and they are much more robust this way than in the ground or gallon cans which is how I have been growing them. The Pasithea I planted in that bed had part of the blooming stalk knocked off by the weather, but there are still some side blooms coming. Finally I got a Ranunculus palmata from Jane last year after someone described it as their favorite yellow flower when we were doing favorites. Even though Jane said it doesn't do well in her Oregon winters, I decided to plant it in the ground since our temperatures don't get as cold. It has such nice bright yellow flowers and the back of the petals are red so it is attractive even when it is not warm enough for it to open all the way. I am also enjoying Anemone pavonina now in bloom and I added pictures of it to the wiki along with close-ups of Anemone palmata. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Anemone It looks like just a few of us will be meeting Bill Dijk next Tuesday at my house, but I am sure we will enjoy being together even if the weather is wet. If anyone else wants to join us, please email me privately. Mary Sue From daffodil@xnet.co.nz Thu Mar 23 02:43:54 2006 Message-Id: <002b01c64e4d$843286f0$0200a8c0@Dads> From: "Bill Dijk" Subject: change od address Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 19:43:43 +1200 Dear All, We would like to inform you all, that our email address has changed to daffodil@xnet.co.nz Kind regards Bill Dijk Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Mar 23 12:36:14 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Scilla bifolia Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 08:26:34 -0600 Dear All; As the weather rips through the garden and turns blooms and bloom seasons topsy-turvy there is one item to point out. Years a go my friend, the late Dodo Denney, waxed over the tiny Scilla bifolia until I bought a few bulbs in typical blue or all white. The white were weak growers and soon faded, and the small size got them kind of lost in the garden, but to my surprise they have self sown here and there-actually far and wide and even at their tiny size, and stand out in the bleaker areas of the garden and in the snow, hail and rain. I went to the wiki pages to offer a picture and found no entry! A quick Google brought up thousands of hits (naturally) including S.b."Rosea' which I now recall also bit the dust. So it may merit description and discussion. As the name suggests it has 2 tiny leaves held at an angle (rabbit ears), but between 2 - 4 inches tall and narrow. The flower is in a very dense spike of tiny star shaped blue 'dots'. Though small, the color is bright and the spread out flowers can be seen from 6 to 10 ft away so they hold their own. Early to bloom, but sort of mid-early (synchronous with Chinodoxa 'Pink Giant') they are a mini-treat and seem to hold up to the worst our season has to offer. It is not a big show, but a modest plant in its own right and for lovers of the tiny a sure fire survivor. Does any one else grow this? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jimmckenney@starpower.net Thu Mar 23 13:25:49 2006 Message-Id: <000301c64ea7$354c5de0$46022c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Scilla bifolia Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 13:25:47 -0500 Let me add my praise for Scilla bifolia to that given by Jim Waddick. This little favorite got off to a bad start in my garden. Decades ago, I had ordered Chionodoxa sardensis; when the bulbs bloomed, I realized I had been taken. I knew what the new arrivals were, but at the time I had my heart set on the really gorgeous color of Chionodoxa sardensis, and by comparison the Scilla bifolia were not only smaller but duller. As the years pass, my affection for this little squill only grows. It does take card of itself, and seeds around unobtrusively. It's a very early bloomer here, earlier here than most Chionodoxa, but not by much. In fact, the hybrid sometimes called x Chionoscilla allenii has appeared here spontaneously. If you have ever wondered what the difference between Scilla and Chionodoxa is, there's your answer: nothing significant. They hybridize on their own. The other early blooming blue squill, Scilla sibirica, is not permanent here: it persists indefinitely, but sooner or later disappears. It does self-sow a bit, but I've never had a colony which I considered permanent. The third squill which blooms here with them is S. mischtschenkoana; this one is reliable and with its much larger white flowers much more conspicuous than the blue ones. All of these are still in bloom here, but just barely. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the winds have dried out the garden and caused the water level in the pool to drop several inches. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 9:27 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Scilla bifolia Dear All; As the weather rips through the garden and turns blooms and bloom seasons topsy-turvy there is one item to point out. Years a go my friend, the late Dodo Denney, waxed over the tiny Scilla bifolia until I bought a few bulbs in typical blue or all white. The white were weak growers and soon faded, and the small size got them kind of lost in the garden, but to my surprise they have self sown here and there-actually far and wide and even at their tiny size, and stand out in the bleaker areas of the garden and in the snow, hail and rain. I went to the wiki pages to offer a picture and found no entry! A quick Google brought up thousands of hits (naturally) including S.b."Rosea' which I now recall also bit the dust. So it may merit description and discussion. As the name suggests it has 2 tiny leaves held at an angle (rabbit ears), but between 2 - 4 inches tall and narrow. The flower is in a very dense spike of tiny star shaped blue 'dots'. Though small, the color is bright and the spread out flowers can be seen from 6 to 10 ft away so they hold their own. Early to bloom, but sort of mid-early (synchronous with Chinodoxa 'Pink Giant') they are a mini-treat and seem to hold up to the worst our season has to offer. It is not a big show, but a modest plant in its own right and for lovers of the tiny a sure fire survivor. Does any one else grow this? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Thu Mar 23 15:15:20 2006 Message-Id: <20060323201519.74651.qmail@web86709.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> From: BRIAN WHYER Subject: Scilla bifolia Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 20:15:19 +0000 (GMT) < The third squill which blooms here with them is S. mischtschenkoana; < this < one is reliable and with its much larger white flowers much more < conspicuous < than the blue ones. I can't say I have ever seen a white form of this bulb, under either of it's names. It is pale blue with a darker stripe for me. It is certainly the most showy, and least invasive of any of the "scillas", and the earliest here of the common garden forms. although it multiplies and seeds well enough. I have been trying to eliminate chionodoxa luciliae for many years from one bed, and was warned by someone at RHS Wisley about planting scilla bifolia, which is "present" in a large area there. Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 where the cold weather seems at last to be coming to an end, the snowdrops finally going over, and the daffodil "events" have been postponed, as there are few daffodils yet open. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Thu Mar 23 15:16:19 2006 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Don't Sell "Suicide Seeds", Activists Warn Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 12:16:17 -0800 Don't know if any of you are following the controversy surrounding "Terminator Technology" used in some genetically modified plants where the seeds they produce are all sterile--requiring you to purchase seeds each year in the case of food crops, for example. The two biggest entities involved in its development are Monsanto and the USDA working together. Anyway, here is an article about it from the Biodiversity Conference going on this week down in Brazil. ("The Convention on Biological Diversity"--"the main instrument for protecting biodiversity and ensuring equitable and sustainable access to the benefits of the Earth's genetic riches and a healthy environment. [There is a] 2010 deadline agreed by the international community for achieving significant results in reducing biodiversity loss.") See another article regarding Canada and this issue at --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a =================================== http://www.ipsnews.net/news.asp?idnews=32582 Inter Press Service News Agency Thursday, March 23, 2006   19:54 GMT     BIODIVERSITY: Don't Sell "Suicide Seeds", Activists Warn Haider Rizvi CURITIBA, Brazil, Mar 21 (IPS) - On Tuesday morning, as delegates arrived at the conference venue, they faced more than 100 peasant and indigenous rights activists at the main gates staging a demonstration in support of a complete ban on the sale and use of Terminator seeds, officially known as Genetic Use Restriction Technology. "These seeds are killed seeds," the crowd shouted as they watched delegates arrive in cars and buses. "Terminate the Terminator", the activists chanted in unison, while demanding tough laws against field testing and sale of so-called "Terminator" technology, which refers to plants that have had their genes altered so that they render sterile seeds at harvest. Because of this trait, some activists call Terminator products "suicide seeds". The U.N. Convention on Biodiversity had adopted a moratorium on field testing and commercialisation of Terminator technology in 2000. But opponents fear that such seeds are likely to be marketed soon unless governments impose a blanket ban. Currently, the product is being tested in greenhouses throughout the United States. Developed by multinational agribusiness firms and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Terminator has the potential to keep small-scale farmers from saving or replanting seeds from one growing season to another, activists say. "Somebody is trying to befool me as a farmer," said Clement Chipokolo of the African Biodiversity Network, who came here all the way from Zambia. "In my culture we don't buy seeds. We save them. But now somebody is trying to bring agricultural slavery for us." The industry claims that it will enhance biodiversity and its high cost is more than compensated for by improved crop yield and quality. But opponents argue that Terminator would not only undermine traditional knowledge and innovation, but would add to the economic burden of poor peasants who depend on saved seeds. "It's the neutron bomb of biotechnology," said Hope Shand of the Canada-based Action Group for Erosion, Technology and Concentration (ETC), about Terminator. "It is designed to maximise profits for the biotech industry because farmers will be forced to buy seeds every year." Currently, the number of small farmers around the world is estimated to be over one billion. The biotech industry's interest in promoting Terminator is not hard to understand because each year the global commercial seed market brings in about 23 billion dollars in revenue, according to independent trade experts who estimate that if farmers were forced to buy new seeds at each planting, the global market would be worth over 45 billion dollars. ETC researchers estimate that if allowed to sell Terminator seeds, the industry will earn at least an additional 10 billion dollars from farmers in developing countries. They say that Brazilian farmers will have to pay no less than 500 million dollars a year to buy soybean seeds, while the purchase of seeds for wheat and cotton crops will cost peasants in Pakistan more than 120 million dollars a year. Currently, about 80 percent of farmers in both Brazil and Pakistan grow crops based on saved seeds from previous harvests. Many governments in the developing world have so far resisted pressure from the U.S. government and industry, but some governments in the industrialised world are trying to influence the outcome of the negotiations in favour of the industry, say activists closely watching the talks here. Last year, the government of Brazil -- the world's fifth most populous country and a major agricultural producer -- passed a law prohibiting the use, registration, patenting and licensing of modified seeds. India, a predominantly agrarian nation and home to one billion people, has done the same. Yet indications are that rich countries like Australia, Canada and New Zealand will side with the U.S. and the biotech industry during the two weeks of negotiations on the Convention on Biodiversity, which has drawn delegates from 188 countries. The Australian delegation is reportedly trying to introduce language that would undermine efforts to keep the U.N. moratorium on field testing and commercialisation of modified seeds intact. Last January, when delegates to the Convention on Biodiversity met in Spain, the Australians recommended that Terminator technology be studied on a "case-by-case risk assessment basis", a turning point in negotiations that activists fear has the potential to undermine the U.N. moratorium. "It is an immoral technology. It's anti-farmer," Shand said. "We don't need any more studies. It must be banned." Francisco Rodriguez Anamuri of Compesina (a women and indigenous people's group in Chile) added: "It's not about Monsanto. It's about our food security. You don't have food security if you don't have seeds." Monsanto, the U.S.-based biotech giant, has repeatedly come under attack from environmental and indigenous right groups for its aggressive research and marketing of genetically modified crops. Though it had pledged in the past not to commercialise Terminator, Monsanto says it seeks to study "the risks and benefits of this technology on case-by-case basis". Some countries have agreed with the industry that genetic modifications can play a significant role in fighting hunger at negligible risk to the environment. But a 100-page study released in January by Friends of the Earth concludes that only a handful of countries have introduced and increased the use of genetically modified crops. Titled "Who Benefits from GM Crops?", the report says that after 10 years of GM crop cultivation, more than 80 percent of the area sown with biotech crops is still concentrated in only three countries: the United States, Argentina and Canada. In other countries -- including Brazil and Paraguay -- GM crops were planted illegally, and in Indonesia, they were planted after government officials were bribed, FoE said. On the debate surrounding the use and sale of Terminator seeds, a senior U.N. official said indications are that delegates might reach a consensus by the end of the meeting next week. "For six years there has been a deadlock," Ahmed Djoghlaf, executive secretary of the Convention on Biodiversity, told IPS Monday. "I think the decision could likely be taken at this meeting." (FIN/2006) Copyright © 2006 IPS-Inter Press Service. All rights reserved. From TalkingPoints@PlantSoup.Com Thu Mar 23 17:51:11 2006 Message-Id: From: N Sterman Subject: growing Boophane disticha Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 14:51:04 -0800 Can anyone direct me to instructions on growing Boophane disticha? thank you Nan Sterman Plant Soup, Inc. TM TalkingPoints@PlantSoup.Com PO Box 231034 Encinitas, CA 92023 Catch this year's Encinitas Garden Festival, April 8, 2006. Visit private gardens, watch fantastic dancers, shop the Gardeners' Marketplace! Information at WWW.EncinitasGardenFestival.Org From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu Mar 23 19:14:39 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060323161242.01619400@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Weather and bulbs Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 16:14:38 -0800 Mary Sue mentioned getting a nice yellow flower from me which she named as Ranunculus palmata, but it's actually Anemone palmata. Same family! Everyone in California should be growing it! It even grows well from stored seed, which I generally donate to the NARGS exchange. A spectacular SOuth African bulb which Mary Sue gave me is blooming in the bulb frame: Romulea sabulosa. The red flowers are so huge they're lying on the ground; the bad weather here may have something to do with that too. Jane McGary From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu Mar 23 19:17:14 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060323161530.01611b88@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Scilla bifolia Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 16:17:11 -0800 Scilla bifolia is very easy to grow in the Pacific Northwest, where it naturalizes and spreads by self-sown seed. Don't let it loose where it may interfere with small plants, such as alpines in the rock garden. In good conditions it can get pretty large (flowering stems to 6 inches). I had the ugly pink one for awhile but thank goodness, it has disappeared. I've never had a white one. (Hint, hint.) Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From arnold@nj.rr.com Thu Mar 23 20:59:26 2006 Message-Id: <4423527D.8050207@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: growing Boophane disticha Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 20:59:25 -0500 Nan; I grow boophone disticha as a summer grower. I have just started them into growth after a winter in the basement kept completely dry except for a once a month sprinkle of water around the circumference of the potting mix. I place outside in full sun and feed with African violet food once per month. In the fall they begin to die back and I withhold water. Potted in a loose gravel based mix with coir, gravel and some potting soil. The foliage dies back in the winter but almost on schedule pushes new growth in early March. Arnold New Jersey From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Fri Mar 24 02:18:01 2006 Message-Id: <003001c64f13$13864f60$30110952@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Scilla bifolia, etc Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 07:17:56 -0000 Scilla bifolia is very widespread in Europe, and can grow in surprising places. I've seen it emerging from under melting snow with Crocus pelistericus in the Greek mountains at the end of June and in March flowering in the verge of a German autobahn lay-by with Corydalis solida. One might be a more exalted situation than the other, but I think the surprise of seeing it in the unpromising German site gave the greater pleasure. The trade form is rather small and dull, as Jim McKenney mentioned, and the trade 'Rosea' is one of those sad jokes perpetrated by the bulb growers. At least they are so innocuous as to be no problem even if they do spread a little. The version really worth growing is S. bifolia 'Praecox' (this name may not be strictly correct). As the name suggests, it is early, usually with the snowdrops, but it's advantage is that it is about 3 times bigger than normal and has many more flowers of a particularly rich blue. The stems are also usually dark red. It's a really choice plant but not commercially available, which is a great shame. When happy it self-sows quite freely and occasionally can be seen making carpets in older gardens. It occasionally varies to a frankly dull amethyst colour and there is a gorgeous clear pink version, but this is desperately slow to increase. As for Scilla sibirica, this seems to be variable in its persistence and spreadability. There's a patch here at Colesbourne that has evidently persisted for decades, and is now spreading slowly with the amelioration of the mowing regime. I have never seen this species more at home than in Massachusetts; there are huge drifts at the Arnold Arboretum and around some of the houses in Concord, to the extent where it looks like an invasive menace. I have never seen seedlings from Scilla mischtschenkoana, but am fond of it for its glacial blue. There are some good patches of it here now, from bulbs planted in 2003, looking glorious in the turf at the moment. The main herbaceous border here has been infested by Chionodoxa forbesii for over 100 years, apparently derived from the bulbs introduced by Henry John Elwes in the 1880s: he wrote about the it in his horticultural memoir and the display continues to this day: it will burst into flower any day now (the temperatures having finally risen). It's a 'weed' nobody could really complain about, being above ground for barely two months and soon disappearing under any taller plants. I'd like to get it going in the wood here to emulate the March Bank at Winterthur. The hybrid xChionoscilla allenii is often perfectly fertile and can sow itself abundantly, as it does in my parents' garden, with seedlings varying quite a bit. There are named clones, such as 'Fra Angelico' which seems to be sterile and is a nicely proportioned compact plant. James Allen (1832-1906) must have had such an interesting garden - just think of the things named after him: Galanthus x allenii, Anemone nemorosa 'Allenii' and the xChionoscilla, and the products of his selection work such as Galanthus 'Merlin', 'Robin Hood' and 'Magnet'. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Spring open days 2006 Mothering Sunday 26 March Easter weekend 15-16-17 April May Day Bank Holiday Plant Sale 1 May Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk From msittner@mcn.org Fri Mar 24 10:10:09 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060324070131.034ca918@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Scilla bifolia, etc Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 07:09:56 -0800 Hi, So is one of you who grows Scilla bifolia going to add it to the wiki since it obviously seems to be a plant that has many fans? And how about Scilla mischtschenkoana? We also could make a page for Chinodoxa if people had pictures of it to add? Do people still consider it to be a distinct genus? Do most of these need cold winter temperatures to thrive and summer water? Mary Sue From john@crellin.org.uk Fri Mar 24 10:27:41 2006 Message-Id: From: "JohnCrellin" Subject: Scilla bifolia, etc Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 15:27:34 -0000 It's certainly a distinct species in my "Bible" on these matters - Stace, New Flora of the British Isles. It's an introduction here in the UK and pops up in my garden without help from me (or anyone in the 16 years we've been here) but never gets to be a carpet - and in fact the flowers are very short-lived with me. That is assuming I have it Ided right - http://www.floralimages.co.uk/pscillbifol.htm Happy to upload to Wiki but not sure I have rights to ? Reply / forward from John Crellin www.FloralWIKI.co.uk the new bit of www.FloralImages.co.uk -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: 24 March 2006 15:10 To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Scilla bifolia, etc Hi, So is one of you who grows Scilla bifolia going to add it to the wiki since it obviously seems to be a plant that has many fans? And how about Scilla mischtschenkoana? We also could make a page for Chinodoxa if people had pictures of it to add? Do people still consider it to be a distinct genus? Do most of these need cold winter temperatures to thrive and summer water? Mary Sue _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri Mar 24 10:38:48 2006 Message-Id: <000001c64f59$0a3a14a0$25022c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: An amazing event Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 10:38:45 -0500 An article on page C 12 of today's Washington Post reports an amazing event: a tortoise thought to be about 250 years old has died at the zoo in India where it had lived for the past 130 years. What's the bulb connection? The tortoise was originally owned by eighteenth century British military officer Robert Clive. When I read that, my first thought was: is that the Clive for whom the genus Clivia was named? But no, the genus was named for another member of the Clive family, the then Duchess of Northumberland. I wonder if she ever saw the tortoise? It's as if Gilbert White's Timothy had survived into our times. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the local "tortoises" are still snoozing. From fbiasella@watertownsavings.com Fri Mar 24 11:20:37 2006 Message-Id: <001501c64f5e$df83e140$55a7f10a@wsbmain.net> From: "Fred Biasella" Subject: Scilla bifolia, etc Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 11:20:31 -0500 Here in Boston MA, it seems to thrive in quite cold conditions. Regardless of it spending the winter with or without a good snow cover it seems to come back great guns every year. I knew of a good sized carpet that had naturalized on the grounds of a house that burnt down long ago. Also at the Arnold Arboretum on the North facing side, there's a "sea" of them that is absolutely spectacular and they don't receive any special attention. I'll try to take a picture of them and post it on the Wiki. Warm Regards, Fred Biasella Hi, So is one of you who grows Scilla bifolia going to add it to the wiki since it obviously seems to be a plant that has many fans? And how about Scilla mischtschenkoana? We also could make a page for Chinodoxa if people had pictures of it to add? Do people still consider it to be a distinct genus? Do most of these need cold winter temperatures to thrive and summer water? Mary Sue _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From vikingdoc@earthlink.net Fri Mar 24 11:53:42 2006 Message-Id: <410-220063524165515920@earthlink.net> From: "Kathy Stokmanis" Subject: Scilla Bifolia Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 08:55:15 -0800 I grow Scilla siberica and several types of Chionodoxa in my mild, wet winters and very hot summers. They currently get supplemental irrigation and have returned for several years. The Scilla siberica is a slug magnet, preferred to almost anything else except for Hyacinths. Could this account for its ephemeral nature in other gardens? Those in pots are somewhat more protected and I actually got to see flowers this year. All of the above are currently in spectacular bloom in my garden right now. Northern California, zone 8/9, unusually wet this winter with 80+ inches of rain, currently raining. Very hot dry long summers. Lachenalia are in bloom and the common Muscaris are just starting. The Hellebores from Tasmanian seed bloomed for the first time this year and I have numerous doubles and semidoubles. I love variety. From john@crellin.org.uk Fri Mar 24 12:00:22 2006 Message-Id: From: "JohnCrellin" Subject: Scilla Bifolia Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 17:00:20 -0000 Amazing the difference in slug palates around the world. I have a major slug and snail problem (making Hostas impossible) but grow Liliaceae because my slugs don't eat them: includes Scilla. (Oh and I have a large frog and toad population who keep them somewhat at bay.) (Western UK) Reply / forward from John Crellin www.FloralWIKI.co.uk the new bit of www.FloralImages.co.uk -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Kathy Stokmanis Sent: 24 March 2006 16:55 To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Scilla Bifolia I grow Scilla siberica and several types of Chionodoxa in my mild, wet winters and very hot summers. They currently get supplemental irrigation and have returned for several years. The Scilla siberica is a slug magnet, preferred to almost anything else except for Hyacinths. Could this account for its ephemeral nature in other gardens? Those in pots are somewhat more protected and I actually got to see flowers this year. All of the above are currently in spectacular bloom in my garden right now. Northern California, zone 8/9, unusually wet this winter with 80+ inches of rain, currently raining. Very hot dry long summers. Lachenalia are in bloom and the common Muscaris are just starting. The Hellebores from Tasmanian seed bloomed for the first time this year and I have numerous doubles and semidoubles. I love variety. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri Mar 24 12:11:32 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060324090932.015d1a98@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Scilla bifolia, etc Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 09:11:29 -0800 John Grimshaw wrote, >The version really worth growing is S. bifolia 'Praecox' (this name >may not be strictly correct). As the name suggests, it is early, usually >with the snowdrops, but it's advantage is that it is about 3 times bigger >than normal and has many more flowers of a particularly rich blue. The stems >are also usually dark red. It's a really choice plant but not commercially >available, which is a great shame. This sounds very like the form I have here, which is quite large as I mentioned in an earlier posting and has dark reddish stems. I got it from Hoog & Dix some years ago, but it didn't carry any cultivar name, as far as I recall. Perhaps I should add it to my summer bulb list if it's more desirable than the typical one. I had just been considering it a pest in the bulb frame! Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From dejager@bulbargence.com Mon Mar 27 15:12:31 2006 Message-Id: <000301c651da$c5d886a0$ac04f8c1@PCPORT> From: "Bulbargence" Subject: Scilla bifolia, Wisley gardens Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 20:49:19 +0100 Dear all, I just returned from Wisley gardens, where Paul Cumbleton, member of this form, very kindly showed me around his bulb collection. It was the first time I visited the garden at this period of the year and it appeared to be one of the best times. At first John showed us the exhibition showhouse with the pots in flower are regularly presented. The amount of species in flower was so overwhelming that it is too much to mention all. There collection of Scilla-chiniodoxa was most impressive (the pot of Chinio-scilla allenii was particularly beautiful.) Then we proceded to the newly equiped alpine house where the pots are grown. in raised plunged beds. The roof can be closed during adverse weather conditions, but normally remains open. One house was almost exclusevily dedicated to Cyclamens. C Coum, pseudibericum, persicum were on full flower. Another house contained almost , exclusively south african bulbs such as Tritonia, Moraea, Gladiolus, Lachenalia. in the parc Galanthus was virtually terminated, Crocus flowering in large carpets amongst the grass. Narcissus generally just starting, but featuring brillantly were N bulbicodium and cyclamineus. A most agreable recommendable bulb experience Lauw de Jager Visiting England ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Grimshaw" > The hybrid xChionoscilla allenii is often perfectly fertile and can sow > itself abundantly, as it does in my parents' garden, with seedlings > varying > quite a bit. From kellyo@wetrock.com Fri Mar 24 15:20:08 2006 Message-Id: <4423E5EC.19892.1477910A@kellyo.wetrock.com> From: "Kelly O'Neill" Subject: An amazing event Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 12:28:28 -0800 > : a tortoise thought to be about 250 years old has died at the zoo in > India where it had lived for the past 130 years. I wonder how old the oldest living bulb is? Kelly O'Neill Wet Rock Gardens Flower Farm U-Pick and more at the farm (open 9 to 6, Sun, Wed and Fri - from March thru Halloween): 2877 N 19th Street Springfield, Oregon 97477 To contact us: * Business Office for mail or by appointment only: gardens@wetrock.com * 1950 Yolanda AVE http://www.wetrock.com * Springfield, Oregon 97477 (541) 746-4444 * From masterson4@cox.net Fri Mar 24 16:53:53 2006 Message-Id: <001c01c64f8d$6abad510$6401a8c0@CompaqSR1550> From: "The Mastersons" Subject: growing Boophane disticha Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 13:53:41 -0800 Hello, Nan! I have had Boophane disticha in my garden in Escondido for a couple of years now. It is in a raised bed with excellent drainage in full sun. I do not irrigate it in the winter but do not protect it from rain. It has not flowered yet but has grown very well, more than doubling in size. I know a garden in Fallbrook where they have volunteer. Mike Masterson From totototo@telus.net Fri Mar 24 20:18:12 2006 Message-Id: <20060325011810.KTAH8578.priv-edtnes28.telusplanet.net@ray> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Little Blue Self-sowers Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 17:19:19 -0800 On 23 Mar 06 at 13:25, Jim McKenney wrote: > ...It does take card of itself, and seeds around unobtrusively. Here in Victoria, Chionodoxa something-or-other is a no uncommon feral plant growing in patches by the road where conditions are right. And in the garden it is something of a thug simply because it seeds so prolificly and spreads everywhere. Scilla bifolia is similar in its habits, but less anxious for lebensraum. Under the right conditions a Victoria garden becomes sprinkled with blue dots during the early spring. This is entrancing, but there's a better way of dealing with these charming thuglets. One problem in many plant collectors' gardens is that the visual appearance is of the dog's breakfast style: one each of a gazillion different plants. Myself, I've gradually become dissatisfied with this approach and over the years have (philosophically if not in practice) come to the p.o.v. that overall appearance *is* important and that the real challenge is to weave a collection of rarities and oddities into something that looks good on a large scale. I've stumbled across several ways of approaching the ideal implicit in my remarks above. * use the same plant repeatedly in different parts of the garden to bind it together as a whole. I've done this with witchhazels; there's one border with seven or eight different cultivars, then another three or four spotted elsewhere to echo that main planting. * plant largish groups of those few plants you really like and which you know how to propagate. I have a bed of Jeffersonia dubia, somewhere around ten plants. Usually you only see one plant of this. As a group, even if they don't exact overwhelm the viewer with a sense of transcendental ecstasy, they at least don't get lost in the shuffle. * group scattered plants of the same sept into one area so they make a real show. And this brings me to chionodoxa, scilla bifolia, and any other little blue self-sowing blubs. My garden was sprinkled with these and all they did was annoy me because they kept turning up *everywhere*. Some ten or fifteen years ago, I started a concentration camp for them next to a parking area, and as I found them in flower, lifted them and moved them to their new site. It took a few years to round them up, but the result was a bed about 25' long and of indeterminate depth, in an area where nothing else would grow and where you wouldn't want to risk anything of any real value. If a car backs up over that bed, it doesn't matter! If I pile leaves on it in the fall, it doesn't matter. Yet when that bed is in flower, as it is now, it's a stunner, a big, bold sweep of bright blue. Far better than the sprinkled approach imho (in my humble opinion). It's mostly chionodoxa, but there are some scilla bifolias in it. I won't pretend that I don't have any stray little blue self-sowers. There are still a few and no matter how sedulously I round them up, a few more appear the next year. It doesn't matter; like a dog's fleas, my stray little blue self-sowers take my mind off more depressing issues (in the case of the dog, that he's a dog) and keep me off the streets and out of trouble as I run around trying once again to dig them all up. Best of all, I've converted a fairly common garden situation into something out of the ordinary. It's a method I recommend for anything that tends to scatter itself about your garden. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From StrawberryFred@cs.com Tue Mar 28 10:42:17 2006 Message-Id: <366.a3db79.315ab352@cs.com> From: StrawberryFred@cs.com Subject: Change of address Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2006 10:42:10 EST Good morning all, Getting ready for our move to Hawaii from the Central Coast of California...retiring from the strawberry business...New email address, fsthorne@sbcglobal.net Regards, Fred Thorne In a message dated 3/24/2006 9:01:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org writes: > Today's Topics: > > 1. An amazing event (Jim McKenney) > 2. Re: Scilla bifolia, etc (Fred Biasella) > 3. Scilla Bifolia (Kathy Stokmanis) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 10:38:45 -0500 > From: "Jim McKenney" > Subject: [pbs] An amazing event > To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" > Message-ID: <000001c64f59$0a3a14a0$25022c42@Library> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > An article on page C 12 of today's Washington Post reports an amazing event: > a tortoise thought to be about 250 years old has died at the zoo in India > where it had lived for the past 130 years. > > What's the bulb connection? The tortoise was originally owned by eighteenth > century British military officer Robert Clive. When I read that, my first > thought was: is that the Clive for whom the genus Clivia was named? But no, > the genus was named for another member of the Clive family, the then Duchess > of Northumberland. I wonder if she ever saw the tortoise? > > It's as if Gilbert White's Timothy had survived into our times. > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the local "tortoises" > are still snoozing. > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 11:20:31 -0500 > From: "Fred Biasella" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Scilla bifolia, etc > To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" > Message-ID: <001501c64f5e$df83e140$55a7f10a@wsbmain.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Here in Boston MA, it seems to thrive in quite cold conditions. Regardless > of it spending the winter with or without a good snow cover it seems to come > back great guns every year. > > I knew of a good sized carpet that had naturalized on the grounds of a house > that burnt down long ago. Also at the Arnold Arboretum on the North facing > side, there's a "sea" of them that is absolutely spectacular and they don't > receive any special attention. I'll try to take a picture of them and post > it on the Wiki. > > Warm Regards, > Fred Biasella > > Hi, > > So is one of you who grows Scilla bifolia going to add it to the wiki since > it obviously seems to be a plant that has many fans? And how about Scilla > mischtschenkoana? We also could make a page for Chinodoxa if people had > pictures of it to add? Do people still consider it to be a distinct genus? > Do most of these need cold winter temperatures to thrive and summer water? > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 08:55:15 -0800 > From: "Kathy Stokmanis" > Subject: [pbs] Scilla Bifolia > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <410-220063524165515920@earthlink.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII > > I grow Scilla siberica and several types of Chionodoxa in my mild, wet > winters and very hot summers. They currently get supplemental irrigation and have > returned for several years. The Scilla siberica is a slug magnet, preferred > to almost anything else except for Hyacinths. Could this account for its > ephemeral nature in other gardens? Those in pots are somewhat more protected > and I actually got to see flowers this year. All of the above are currently > in spectacular bloom in my garden right now. > > Northern California, zone 8/9, unusually wet this winter with 80+ inches of > rain, currently raining. Very hot dry long summers. Lachenalia are in bloom > and the common Muscaris are just starting. The Hellebores from Tasmanian > seed bloomed for the first time this year and I have numerous doubles and > semidoubles. I love variety. > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 38, Issue 22 > *********************************** From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Wed Mar 29 04:02:36 2006 Message-Id: <003601c6530e$7a017040$13334593@com> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Clivias, yellow citrinas Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 16:55:05 +0800 If anyone would like to have alook at ebay I have many citrina clivias for sale. (And more at home). Citrina mature, citrina variegated or akebono 2 year olds. If any of my friends in the US or Germany wish to paypay any before the end of today (your time) they will be send out with orders I will be sending in 36 hours time, to friends in the US etc, that will forward them on to you. No paperwork etc, all done. Any order will be sent for AUD $60, about US $45.00 I think. Join with a friend!!! Angela If you wish plants to be sent direct to you (1 week International courier Express the cost will be AUD $ 100.00 anytime that suits you) Angela www.angelasgarden.net angelasgarden@bigpond.com.au From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Wed Mar 29 04:04:12 2006 Message-Id: <004401c6530e$b3a01c20$13334593@com> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: I want to join Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 16:56:42 +0800 I finally will join! I am financial now?!?! I will pay paypal to your email address, just let me know the amount. many thanks, Angela From garden@pine-ridge.ca Wed Mar 29 09:44:39 2006 Message-Id: <200603290939.54266.garden@pine-ridge.ca> From: Lis Allison Subject: I want to join Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 09:39:54 -0500 On Wednesday 29 March 2006 03:56 am, Angela and Dean Offer wrote: > I finally will join! I am financial now?!?! I will pay paypal to your > email address, just let me know the amount. I'd like to join too but so far every effort has bounced! I am piggy-backing on Angela's request just in case that works. Tanx, eh, Lis Allison (Canadian, eh) From jimmckenney@starpower.net Thu Mar 30 18:13:39 2006 Message-Id: <000101c6544f$9267bee0$59002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Today in my garden Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 18:13:34 -0500 After I finished my morning things today, I drove up to the bank; I got home at about 10:30 A.M. There in the front yard was a huge deer contentedly munching on my bulb plants. Evidently the Muscari inflorescences were a big hit. I clapped my hands a few times and it ignored me. Then I approached it (it was maybe five yards away) and started to yell. It raised its head, looked at me with a puzzled look, and finally - showing signs of confusion - began to move away. I live in a highly built-up area, a typical late twentieth century subdivision of ramblers surrounded by other subdivisions of ramblers. However, Montgomery County is like a good well marbled steak, with veins of fat parkland threaded throughout the community. Things should get really exciting when the coyotes start to chase the deer through the neighborhood. Then we will have to contend with not only nibbled plants but also plants mashed down in the fracas. Last year I moved many of the lilies from the back garden which backs onto the woods (read deer buffet) to the front garden. It may have been a waste of time. Now I'm trying to decide which style of deer netting will be least obtrusive in the front garden. I won't be the first in the area to do this. The last of the crocuses, C. versicolor and C. pestalozzae, will probably finish this weekend. The next wave of Fritillaria is opening - lots of excitement there! FF. acmopetala, a. wendelboi, and eastwoodiae are either open a bit or on the verge of opening or at least showing color. Flower buds are showing on some of the Calochortus, and the first of the themidaceous plants is opening. Tulipa of the humilis group are beginning to flower. Bellevallia longipes has a nice fat inflorescence. It's easy for an hour or two to evaporate now when examining the seedlings in the frames. Iris 'Dardanus', now in its third season here, has nineteen "fans" from an initial three. Last year it produced seven scapes, two of them with two flowers. Hyacinthoides italica is blooming today and it's not at all what I expected. The bulb looked like a Hyacinthoides bulb, and I expected a small version of the Spanish bluebell. But the plant blooming now looks like Scilla bifolia a bit. The first flowers face upward and are nestled right down in the foliage. At first I thought my "helpers" had been at it again. But then I checked the images on the wiki and they do look like my plant. Still, that comes as a surprise. Why? Because about seventy years ago, David Griffiths discussed this plant, mentioning that it was not commonly grown in the US. He did not offer a photo, but he did mention that it was similar to the Spanish bluebell, about a foot high, and did not bloom until May or early June. My plant, in the garden with no advantage in placement, is blooming now and is maybe three or four inches high. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where there is some musk-scented venison to be had locally: among the muscari nibbled today were most of the musk hyacinths, my favorites. From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Thu Mar 30 19:03:57 2006 Message-Id: <20060331000356.71589.qmail@web34309.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Today in my garden Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 16:03:56 -0800 (PST) Hello, I used to have deer problems, but I rarely see them in my yard anymore since my Grandmother(up in NW Montana where garden grown tomatos are like gold) told me to tie dryer sheets to little stakes stuck at intervals, every 100 ft, throughout the garden. They might look awful but they work! I had a lily lose its top half for 3 years running until I followed her instructions. The Lily finally got to bloom last year at 6.5 feet high and 13 highly fragrant trumpets. In fact I have had no deer problems since the placement of the dryer sheets. They fade quickly after a few storms or you can selectively place them where they will be hidden. They seem to last for a whole year. Now I just need to rid my garden of the neighbors dogs, squirrels, and the rabbits. All the best, Aaron Floden: Manhattan,KS garden: Stilwell, KS z5/6 --- Jim McKenney wrote: > Last year I moved many of the lilies from the back > garden which backs onto > the woods (read deer buffet) to the front garden. It > may have been a waste > of time. > > Now I'm trying to decide which style of deer netting > will be least obtrusive > in the front garden. I won't be the first in the > area to do this. > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From jimmckenney@starpower.net Thu Mar 30 19:35:25 2006 Message-Id: <000201c6545a$ff477220$59002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Today in my garden Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 19:35:21 -0500 Aaron wrote: tie dryer sheets to little stakes stuck at intervals, every 100 ft, throughout the garden. Aaron, what are dryer sheets? Jim McKenney From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Thu Mar 30 20:24:07 2006 Message-Id: <20060331012407.76708.qmail@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Today in my garden Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 17:24:07 -0800 (PST) Sorry, I guess it is not completely clear from reading it. They are the little waxy scented sheets some people throw in with a load of clothes when they dry them. Aaron --- Jim McKenney wrote: > Aaron wrote: tie dryer sheets to little stakes stuck > at > intervals, every 100 ft, throughout the garden. > > Aaron, what are dryer sheets? > > Jim McKenney > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From plantlady@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Thu Mar 30 20:27:46 2006 Message-Id: From: "Linda Foulis" Subject: Today in my garden Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 18:29:23 -0700 Hi Jim & Aaron, I assume you mean Bounce or Downey sheets? Jim they're the sheets one puts in the dryer to combat static, you may use a liquid version. Aaron, what brand do you use? Does it matter? I use scentless due to allergies, bet they wouldn't work? They're are 5 or so deer that frequent my yard and I'm trying to determine the least expensive yet quickest way to keep them away from my plants. Linda Okotoks, AB Canada -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Jim McKenney Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 5:35 PM To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Subject: Re: [pbs] Today in my garden Aaron wrote: tie dryer sheets to little stakes stuck at intervals, every 100 ft, throughout the garden. Aaron, what are dryer sheets? Jim McKenney _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Thu Mar 30 20:33:33 2006 Message-Id: <20060331013332.54316.qmail@web34313.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Today in my garden Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 17:33:32 -0800 (PST) I use a cheap generic brand that are scented. Some people claim it is the static charge(?) that keeps the deer at bay. Not quite sure how. I would say it is the scent. Either way, it works for me. I had used soap for a while, but the deer started eating that! I guess it wasn't completely scent that detered them. Aaron --- Linda Foulis wrote: what brand do you use? Does it matter? I > use scentless due to > allergies, bet they > wouldn't work? > They're are 5 or so deer that frequent my yard and > I'm > trying to determine the least expensive yet quickest > way to keep them away > from my > plants. > > Linda > > Okotoks, AB > Canada __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From irisman@ameritech.net Fri Mar 31 12:21:35 2006 Message-Id: <001401c654e7$45b05380$5ad8fea9@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: dryer sheets in your garden. Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 11:19:30 -0600 To all: Yes, it matters which ones. Bounce is considered to be the superior ones or whichever others contain the relevant chemistry. it' not clear what does it. (It's not the static). The sheets are also a barier to assaults by slugs and snails, asnd have emany other similr uses. The post office (in some areas) has told mail carriers who are vulnerable to yellowjacket stings to tie one to their belt when they are in areas that might put them at risk. For those who want to know more: type in-- bounce uses-- to your search window . (I use Dogpile which incorporates Google) and the first item which comes up has a list. Cheers, Adam From irisman@ameritech.net Fri Mar 31 13:33:33 2006 Message-Id: <000501c654f1$3e9a29e0$5ad8fea9@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: further on bounce uses Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 12:30:53 -0600 I just checked further into Bounce uses ,real and imagined. On the Snopes website some of the "uses" had been checked out. Some are real, some are urban legends, some have the status of water or a placebo. It apparently does not repel ants, nor mosquitos in any great quantity. It is a good deodorizer for shoes, and I understand from a friend who uses that it does repel slugs and snails in his greenhouse. More research with simple control tests (primitive straightforward kitchen and backyard research is OK) needs to be done re: uses in the garden, e.g., moles, deer, etc. Cheers, Adam From DaveKarn@aol.com Fri Mar 31 13:53:41 2006 Message-Id: <265.8736d8b.315ed4b0@aol.com> From: DaveKarn@aol.com Subject: Today in my garden Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 13:53:36 EST In a message dated 3/30/2006 5:28:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, plantlady@beautifulblooms.ab.ca writes: They're are 5 or so deer that frequent my yard and I'm trying to determine the least expensive yet quickest way to keep them away from my plants. The best remedy that I've heard is this one. It arose in response to deer problems experienced by others who'd tried the range of remedies, most unsuccessful. Too, this particular remedy also has some other major benefits that might just cure both problems . . . "Remington makes an excellent 7mm magnum pill that is very effective. It also inhibits urban sprawl." Dave Karnstedt From lwallpe@juno.com Fri Mar 31 22:12:37 2006 Message-Id: <20060331.191118.14751.813112@webmail06.lax.untd.com> From: "lwallpe@juno.com" Subject: today in my garden Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2006 03:10:19 GMT Jim - Here in Cincinnati we are experiencing the same situation with deer. But I don't think it will be coyote chasing the deer here, I think it will be bear. In Boone County, Kentucky, just south of here, bears have been reported the last couple years. The should prove to be VERY exciting when they move into the neighborhood! Linda W. who lives 3 miles, as the crow flies, from the center of the downtown Cincinnati area and wishes the county and city parks would cull their herds. ________________________________________________________________________ Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month! Unlimited Internet Access with 1GB of Email Storage. Visit http://www.juno.com/value to sign up today!