From dejager@bulbargence.com Thu Jun 1 02:59:28 2006 Message-Id: From: Lauw de Jager Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 40, Issue 21 Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 08:57:48 +0200 Marilyn, If by now you have not yet got the list of the name changes: it was published in 1998 Novon 8: 371-377. I can sent you a copy of the article. Kind regards le 24/05/06 23:26, Marilyn Pekasky à faeden4444@sbcglobal.net a écrit : > Moraea pendula and M. reflexa aren't in Goldblatt's Moraea book because they > used to be in the genus Homeria, which has for the most part now been subsumed > into Moraea. > If anyone knows where there is a new list I'd like to know too. Lauw de Jager http://www.bulbargence.com South of France (Climat méditerranéen; zone 8 Olivier) Latitude 34° N Altitude: 4m From Zonneveld@rulbim.leidenuniv.nl Thu Jun 1 03:49:13 2006 Message-Id: <447EB80D.14284.324BDA@localhost> From: "zonneveld" Subject: Narcissus portensis Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2006 09:49:01 +0200 Narcissus portensis is supposed to be "common' in central Spain Yet so far I have not been able to locate one. If any of you has it and is willing to send me a single leaf that would make me very happy indeed. Ben J.M.Zonneveld Institute of Biology,Leiden University, Clusius lab Wassenaarse weg 64, 2333 AL Leiden, The Netherlands Zonneveld@rulbim.Leidenuniv.NL Fax: +31-71-5274999. min temp -10C (15F) From Zonneveld@rulbim.leidenuniv.nl Thu Jun 1 09:18:41 2006 Message-Id: <447F0545.6631.15FE65D@localhost> From: "zonneveld" Subject: picture of bulb x pseudon. Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2006 15:18:29 +0200 Has anyone a picture of a bulbocodium x any pseudonarcissus? Thanks. I could not find one with Google. Ben J.M.Zonneveld Institute of Biology,Leiden University, Clusius lab Wassenaarse weg 64, 2333 AL Leiden, The Netherlands Zonneveld@rulbim.Leidenuniv.NL Fax: +31-71-5274999. min temp -10C (15F) From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Jun 1 14:30:00 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2006 13:16:50 -0500 Dear all; I thought I'd tell you my beautiful failure to grow Alstroemeria. Last summer as fall approached, I thought it would be a good idea to try growing some full size/tall hybrid Alstroemeria in my cool greenhouse for mid-winter bloom. I arranged a few trades from members of this list and others and ended up with nearly a dozen 2,5 and 10 gall pots of Alstroemeria roots in a range of colors. They soon settled down and began to grow. As planned they didn't seem to mind the frost free, but cool greenhouse and the reduced winter light we get here. But there was no bloom. I waited until Feb, March, April and they got more and more vigorous, green and lush; soon filling their pots. As April approached the weather warmed and they began to spend some time outside the greenhouse on mild days. By the end of April flower buds finally appeared and by the first of May the first few flowers opened, but the plants were fully outside the greenhouse day and night. Then I left the country for 3 weeks+. On my return they are all in gorgeous bloom in various shades of pink, red, purple and orange (no yellow or white by coincidence). They are now lining my front walk and look great. So my planned ultimately failed. Not one bloomed in the greenhouse at all, but I can't complain since they look so good now. Maybe this fall, I'll get them into the greenhouse a bit earlier and get something to bloom in Feb. IN THE GREENHOUSE. Try again. Best Jim W. ps OR are their early blooming or cool season hybrids I SHOULD have tried? Grow first and ask questions afterward. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu Jun 1 18:27:44 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060601152254.033face8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 15:28:15 -0700 Jim Waddick reported on his success keeping hybrid alstroemerias in the greenhouse for setting out after frost. Last summer I decided to trial some of the new "Princess" series of alstro hybrids, which are short-growing bedding plants. I bought half a dozen forms (a considerable investment) and planted them in what should be a perfect site. Unfortunately, not a single one made it through the winter, during which the low was 17 degrees F without snow cover. I think these pretty plants have A. pelegrina in their ancestry (the bright green, glossy, rather succulent leaves of most forms suggest this), and that is a very tender species that grows right on the coast. Thus, Jim's management technique may be the only way for those of us in cooler regions to enjoy "Princess" alstros. I did keep a piece of one gorgeous purple one (I suspected the color alone indicated tender ancestry, e.g. A. paupercula) in a pot indoors and it's now flowering. Fortunately there are hardier species available, some of which I've grown outdoors for 4 or 5 years, but they tend to be big and lax in habit. I don't know if there are hybrids exclusively from these tougher ones. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Thu Jun 1 19:47:12 2006 Message-Id: <000a01c685d4$7c32c1e0$061ffea9@com> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 07:38:27 +0800 Hi Jane, I am also very interested in alstroemeria I find even here, with a warmer climate, it is best to grow the young plants in pots and pamper them, Once they have grown bigger, then I put them in the ground. perhaps try again with one princess lily, and only put it out when it is a big plant,. Let me know how you get on Angela Western Australia ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jane McGary" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 6:28 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Alstroemeria > Jim Waddick reported on his success keeping hybrid alstroemerias in the > greenhouse for setting out after frost. > > Last summer I decided to trial some of the new "Princess" series of alstro > hybrids, which are short-growing bedding plants. I bought half a dozen > forms (a considerable investment) and planted them in what should be a > perfect site. Unfortunately, not a single one made it through the winter, > during which the low was 17 degrees F without snow cover. > > I think these pretty plants have A. pelegrina in their ancestry (the bright > green, glossy, rather succulent leaves of most forms suggest this), and > that is a very tender species that grows right on the coast. Thus, Jim's > management technique may be the only way for those of us in cooler regions > to enjoy "Princess" alstros. > > I did keep a piece of one gorgeous purple one (I suspected the color alone > indicated tender ancestry, e.g. A. paupercula) in a pot indoors and it's > now flowering. > > Fortunately there are hardier species available, some of which I've grown > outdoors for 4 or 5 years, but they tend to be big and lax in habit. I > don't know if there are hybrids exclusively from these tougher ones. > > Jane McGary > Northwestern Oregon, USA > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From msittner@mcn.org Thu Jun 1 20:43:09 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060601172932.01da87a8@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Odontostomum Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 17:36:16 -0700 I've redone the wiki page for Odontostomum which is a California genus with one species in the Tecophilaeaceae family. I find this very curious. How did it get here? This plant doesn't seem to have a lot of fans, but I think it is charming in an understated way and it is a reliable bloomer for me and that is a good trait. We saw it in the wild this April when we were walking around Bidwell Park in Chico. One of my companions walking ahead of me said to come see this pretty little white orchid. As I got closer I figured out what it really was. I had never seen it in the wild before. This past fall I replanted one of my octagons and I think I have come up with a better companion for it in Allium unifolium. This is one of those accidental pairings that worked. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Odontostomum I think Telos sells this plant. Mary Sue From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri Jun 2 07:53:31 2006 Message-Id: <000601c6863b$2ab7f850$85002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Odontostomum Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 07:53:28 -0400 Mary Sue mentioned Odontostomum. I have it here this year (from Jane) but it has not yet bloomed. The photos I've seen suggest that yes, it's pretty and interesting. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where we're experiencing ghastly heat and humidity; as compensation, there are dozens of Calochortus flowers to enjoy. From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri Jun 2 08:47:18 2006 Message-Id: <000e01c68642$ae72f210$85002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Ornithogalum magnum Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 08:47:16 -0400 I've added an image of Ornithogalum magnum to the wiki. Please take a look at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Ornithogalum This species has been in the garden for several years now, and it's both reliable and eye-catching. It's big: the emerging inflorescence suggests a fat culinary asparagus and goes on to easily reach a height of three feet. I don't see this plant mentioned in any of the old standard references. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Lilium hansonii is handsomely in bloom. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Jun 2 09:53:21 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 08:48:41 -0500 Dear Jane; I have grown the hardy A psitticina *outdoors in a protected spot right up against the foundation of my unheated greenhouse-facing south. And I have one of the princesses,. too 'Anouska' ( purple) less than a foot tall in a large pot. It is very vigorous. Is that the same as yours? I have planted the 'so called' hardy Alsroes outside (Sweet Laura, Liberty etc.) and they barely survive and rarely bloom or get to much size here. Can you suggest anything hardier and tougher than these? Best Jim W. ps I have seen and admire the variegated form but haven't tried it. Anyone have success in a colder climate? It is a beauty. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Jun 2 09:53:25 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Ornithogalum Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 08:52:52 -0500 Dear All'; Seeing Jim McK's O. magnum reminds me of one here. I suppose the universally weedy O. umbellatum has turned off many gardeners to any other Ornithogalum, too bad. A few years ago I bought a half dozen O. ponticum from Janis Ruksans. All but one bulb died, but that single bulb has grown and formed into a nice clump blooming now and very similar to Jim's O. magnus. I rarely see any mention of O. ponticum and what little I read suggests it is much too tender for Kansas City. Any one else have experience with this species? Not quite as large as O. magnus, but very worthy as a garden addition. Thanks Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From msittner@mcn.org Fri Jun 2 10:24:16 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060602065726.03702820@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2006 07:07:41 -0700 On the topic of Alstroemeria, I've planted out a number of ones that Roy Sachs gave me in my garden. They come back and spread, but do not bloom so this may be worse than having them die in a cold climate. I believe we discussed this on another forum and if I remember the conclusion was they needed better soil (or fertilization) than they can get in my garden. I have one exception and that is one that resurrected from some tubers I tossed and thought I had disposed of. In this one spot of my garden for a number of years now I have a lot of blooms for months and months. They are also spreading too much in this spot, but the flowers are so pretty I hate to disturb them. Mary Sue From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Jun 2 10:52:19 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 09:51:16 -0500 Dear Mary Sue; I do not even vaguely pretend any knowledge about growing these things, but I have found this cultivation guide thought provoking... even if I don't follow it to the word. http://www.roskam-youngplants.com/Alstroemeria_Cultivation_Guide.doc Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Fri Jun 2 11:06:05 2006 Message-Id: <52857FDB394B7E45BA1F2E60D7313E2A0324E154@cbgmail.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 10:06:04 -0500 I planted one of the short cultivars on the south side of my house last spring. It is up and foliage is looking very healthy. It was a 'rescue' from the compost pile so the label information was not available. Last winter was a rough one for many taxa. We had a very dry fall; one of the coldest Decembers on record followed by one of the warmest January's on record. February thru April returned to seasonably cold temperatures. The drought broke in May with some torrential downpours but temperatures remain 5 - 10 degrees warmer than an average May. Some woody and perennial taxa are exhibiting stress symptoms so to see this marginally hardy taxa come back was something of a surprise. Boyce Tankersley Manager of Living Plant Documentation Chicago Botanic Garden 1000 Lake Cook Road Glencoe, IL 60022 tel 847-835-6841 fax 847-835-1635 From john@floralarchitecture.com Fri Jun 2 13:53:45 2006 Message-Id: <20060602175345.37535.qmail@web36202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: OH Spring Report Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 10:53:45 -0700 (PDT) Well, as computer gremlins would have it, I had a huge email that somehow disappeared. So, I will start all over. I am now in OH at my uncle's house in z 5b. There are some real surprises this spring. Tropicals/non-hardies: Cardoon is sprouting and is about 3' tall. Parsley is up and about to flower. Tetrapanex 'Steroidal Giant' has suckered and I have about 5 new plants. I had removed the main plant last fall and sent to myself (it died). Salvia Black and Blue up against the house is nearing 3' tall already. Brugmansia (overwintered in the unheated garage) is sprouting from the top Fuchsia 'Gartenmeister Bonstedt' also in the garage in a pot is sprouting Agapanthus in the same garage is completely evergreen. I wasn't expecting that. Hardy tropicals: Crinum (mostly powellii and moorei but a few Ellen B.) are quite large this year but no signs of buds forming. Rhodophialas are everywhere that I planted them. They have started to clump quite nicely. They put on a nice show last fall when I was home. Lycoris (longituba, squamigera, and one other that I can't think of at the moment) are up and lush. they seem to have very little tip burn. They have been in the ground for 3 years or more and have not bloomed that I am aware of. I did have radiata in the ground that flowered but they have since disappeared. Yucca rostrata seems to have overwintered quite well. I gave it a few tugs on the leaves and there doesn't seem to be any rot. Some happy notes: I am seeing some Japanese and Siberian iris bloom that I haven't seen before. I also have what I thought was I. cristata in bloom but it is white. Is there a white form that I might have picked up? I originally had it planted under a magnolia until I realized (as I should have known) that they have opposite soil requirements. I have planted here nearly 18 different iris species/types. Then I have maybe 6-8 of each type at the most. Of the Japanese ones I have maybe 8 varieties, 6 or so Siberians, a dozen of the Germans, some Dutch, some Spurias, etc., etc. My Spiranthes cernua var. odora (from Plant Delights) have increased well. I added more plants last year to increase the size of the area. I love them. I think they are adorable and one of the easiest orchids next to Bletillas for cold climates. I do have large stands now of the Bletilla. I asked my aunt what she thought about them and she said that she doesn't like the leaf and wondered if I could take them out. I, of course, said no. I told her that she should be proud to have large stands of orchids in her yard. She didn't seem to be too impressed. Maybe this fall I will pull some out and move them around and give some to other family members who should love them more. Lilies are doing well. I have buds on my regals and the formossanum are chest high already. The OP and LA lilies are also quite tall. Most of these I got from Judith at the Lily Garden. In my shade garden (a rather small crowded area) had some nice blooms. The Trillium grandiflora (from Naylor gardens for a steal, $7 each) bloomed for the first time this year. I also have blooms on the Arum italicums. There are other orchids that I planted here to try them out but I haven't searched for them just yet. I planted Epipactis thunbergii, Orchis graminifolia hybrids, and Habenaria radiata. The area has a ground cover of a Campanula that is doing better than anticipated. I will have to remove some soon. There is also a collection of 18 or so Tricyrtis that I have acquired. I will be pulling out my original hirta as it always has dried leaf tips in the fall when blooming. It is right up against the house and doesn't get enough water. Since I have so many nicer varieties now, I won't be too sad. The Rohdea had it throughout the winter. I need to take a closer look when the rains stop but it looks like there might be some variegation starting on the leaves. In the same bed I have planted some Arisaema sikokianum and cyclamen. The later seems to be smothered by the Pulmonarias nearby. My aunt want the Pulmonarias removed as well. She is quite hard to please sometimes. I have several Hellebores that have been in the ground for several years and I still have no blooms. 'Black Lady' put out maybe 4 or 6 flowers last year but nothing this year. The only bloom I got this year was from foetidis. What am I doing wrong? They are somewhat small plants yet but I thought that the wayside hybrids that I got 6 years ago would be larger than 8" tall by now. They are infuriating. Growing some plants has taught me patience (clivias, palms, etc.) but since i only see these plants occasionally, I thought that there were be major growth spurts between visits. What do they need that they are not getting? They are in a humus rich (peat and compost) soil in bright dappled shade (some direct sun in the morning). There is leaf litter and moisture. They don't stay wet at any time of the year but they don't really dry out too much either. The peonies are doing well. The trees are finished except for a few sheltered blooms. The herbaceous are either in full bloom or just getting started. Coral Charm and Coral Sunrise are finished though. I did get to see the last blooms the day I arrived. They were quickly removed the next day with rains. I had no idea that they fade to a yellow/apricot color though. Of my peonies there is one or two that I have to rave about. 'America' is incredible. I know that I have said this every year but WOW!. The single magenta red blooms are huge. They are easily over 8" across and never flop in the rains. The other one is 'Karl Rosenfeld'. Even though it is one of the most common commercial reds, the color is gorgeous. It has been raining all night and they are still standing without any support. Most of my herb. are on peony rings but not this one. I was hoping to get a bloom on 'Bartzella' this year but I guess I need to wait for another year. One peony that eludes me is 'Lord Calvin'. I have had this plant for several years now. I have had to move it several times over the years but I have never had a bloom. It is at the end of the driveway near the house so it might be getting a lot of salt. How salt tolerant are peonies? Also, this is same location for my Sarracenia flava that is blooming for the first time. It is planted in the open clay/loam soil. I have quite a few Alliums blooming, schubertii, christofii, and another muddy white one with wide grey leaves from Brent and Becky's. This one is about 4" tall with 3" umbels. The name escapes me at the moment. That reminds me that I need to check on the ones that I got from Mark. I haven't really had too much chance to get out to the garden between the rains. OK. I just looked and they seem like they are elongated and buds are on the rise. The Fritillaria imperalis seemed like they bloomed good this year. I am glad that I found, finally, the proper place for the. They are located at the base of a birch tree on a raised bed that never holds water due to it's angle. The other location is out at the mailbox which is nearly pure sand and rocks. I need to search for the other Frits (from Jane) to see how they are doing. Looks like the Ornithagaulm sp. (which escapes me, also from Jane) seem to have bloomed nicely. Iphieon uniflora and 'Alberto Castillo' have formed nice clumps. They are done blooming by now. I'd love to get some more of the other varieties, namely 'Charlotte Bishop'. This is my aunt's favorite color other than teal. My 'Charlotte's in L.A. didn't bloom this year so I don't know where they have gone. With the winter being very mild, I am expecting to find the Hippeastrums sprouting when I get into the beds to work. They made it through the previous winter which was pretty cold. Digitalis grandiflora (seeds sent to the BX) are starting to bloom. This is a work horse Digitalis. It is blooming in the spring when I am here and again in Sept. when I return. I have no idea of the interim but they are not dead headed and have never reseeded, unfortunately. I'd love to have a large stand of them around. Penstemons are budded and rearing to go. I usually loose them after a few years. They get too much moisture here. The callas are all sprouting. I have lost only one calla that I've planted in the ground. I ordered (from Plant Delights) a large white spotted calla. I hope to get some large ones that will spread nicely. One plant that I am amazed is hardy is Zauschneria 'Orange Carpet'. This is an 8" tall mound about 3' wide from a single plant. It is massed in Sept with orange flowers. I recommend it for any climate. If they grow here and in CA, they can grow anywhere. I'm sure that I have left some things off this truncated email but I'll send more info when I find out more. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri Jun 2 14:06:49 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060602110156.00bd6bb0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2006 11:04:32 -0700 Angela wrote, >Hi Jane, I am also very interested in alstroemeria >I find even here, with a warmer climate, it is best to grow the young plants >in pots and pamper them, Once they have grown bigger, then I put them in the >ground. perhaps try again with one princess lily, and only put it out when >it is a big plant,. The plants I lost in the winter were large (in 1 or 2 gallon pots) with extensive root systems when I planted them in spring. I still think it's best to relegate "Princess" alstros to warm climates where they can be grown permanently in the ground, since they retail here for US $12 to $20 apiece -- a bit much for summer bedding, and the big containers necessary to satisfy them are hard to move indoors in fall. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri Jun 2 14:19:24 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060602110752.00c41008@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Odontostomum Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2006 11:11:11 -0700 Odontostomum hartwegii is indeed a curiosity in terms of being the only North American representative of its family. It's flowering here now in the bulb frame, where it increases rapidly. As Mary Sue wrote, it is not a showy flower, but certainly of botanical interest and easy to grow. Flowering near it right now is a South American bulb that I received through a Watson order under the name Camassia bifolia. I think it has now been moved out of the genus Camassia but am not sure of the current name. Superficially this and the Odontostomum look quite similar (the details of the stigma and anthers are, however, quite different). Again, a disappointment in aesthetic terms but interesting nonetheness. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri Jun 2 14:36:48 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060602113025.00c470f0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Ornithogalum Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2006 11:37:17 -0700 Jim Waddick asked about Ornithogalum ponticum. This plant, which I think most who grow it have in the selection 'Sochi', closely resembles O. narbonense (a very easy, commercially available species), but is less easy to establish. My best success with it is in rather retentive soil, on the flat, where it gets some summer water; its companions include herbaceous peonies and a hardy yellow Kniphofia hybrid selected here. O. pyrenaicum also grows well in this spot. I always try anything named 'ponticum' (from the Black Sea coast of Turkey) because our climate here is very similar to that region. Another Pontic plant that loves western Oregon is Iris lazica. I've seen O. umbellatum behaving aggressively in fields in the Pacific Northwest, but here I planted it in rough grass in a rather shady area where it gets no summer water, and it has never offered to spread, perhaps because it gets mown before ripening its seed (the mowing of the area is controlled by the growth cycle of some daffodils that also grow in the grass). There are several very short-growing ornithogalums (I think in England they sometimes call them "thogs," which strikes me as an ugly word) that can be very attractive in flower, but they all seem to increase very fast vegetatively so probably should not be placed in the small rock garden. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri Jun 2 14:47:54 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060602113750.00c5b3a8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2006 11:44:26 -0700 The most vigorous Alstroemeria in my garden is one I grew from seed collected at a fairly low elevation in hills near Chile's Valle Central. I think it's A. ligtu subsp. incarnata. It's very large and produces masses of flowers most of the summer. Fortunately I have it confined to a huge sand and gravel berm, where I also grow some other alstros, tulips, and the western North American genus Hastingsia, punctuated by whatever wildflowers happen to seed in, such as lupines, foxgloves, Gilia capitata, Solidago, and California poppy. And weeds, of course. (Reading John Ingram's posting, I'm motivated to include Zauschneria [current name Epilobium canum] in the mix; it could rampage at will, and it would flower after the alstros so the colors wouldn't clash.) This alstro happily survives winter temperatures below 20 F, though the emerging foliage can be damaged a bit, and stocks the house with cut flowers all on its own. Seeds like mad, too, but mostly into the gravel path, which I spray with Round-up. The flowers are warm pink with yellow, very large, and as many as 25 per inflorescence. The habit is lax, so it would not please a cutflower breeder. I also have A. aurea in the garden, but it behaves itself, perhaps because my plants stem from near the northern limit of its distribution, where the plants tend to be smaller than those in the forests of Patagonia. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri Jun 2 15:14:52 2006 Message-Id: <000801c68678$d1bb0510$d2012c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: OH Spring Report Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 15:14:48 -0400 Wonderful post, John. I wish others would do this more. Yes, Iris cristata has white-flowered forms. In strict observance of the usual horticultural muddle, they are generally called 'alba'. What did you mean when you said that the iris and the magnolia have opposite soil requirements? You didn't mention the magnolia in question, but magnolia soil in general should suit the iris very well. In fact, for years I had a broad mat of Iris cristata under Magnolia stellata. You have Japanese iris in bloom already in Ohio? Habenaria [Sometimes Platanthera/Pecteilis] radiata is a tiny plant with leaves only about a half inch wide and at most a few inches long. When in bloom it might stretch to nine or ten inches high. It grows best for me under bog conditions: in live sphagnum moss is ideal. If you planted it in garden soil, you'll probably never see it again. You wrote: "and another [Allium] muddy white one with wide grey leaves from Brent and Becky's. This one is about 4" tall with 3" umbels. The name escapes me at the moment." If that's 4' instead of 4", your plant is probably the Allium sold as A. multibulbosum or A. nigrum. I love variety and abundance in a garden, and the one you described seems to have both. Sounds wonderful, and thanks for sharing. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Biarum carduchorum is blooming! From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri Jun 2 17:45:59 2006 Message-Id: <001201c6868d$ef821bf0$83022c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Biarum carduchorum Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 17:45:58 -0400 I've just added an image of Biarum carduchorum to the wiki. Please take a look at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Biarum This one caught me by surprise. I didn't see it coming. I was out this morning sorting pots of now dormant bulbs and touched something soft and fleshy. I don't know this species at all. Is the spathe shown a bit past its prime? There is no odor that I can detect, and the spathe has the muted colors and partially closed look which some aroids get when they have been pollinated. A Google image search on the names Biarum carduchorum and B. karduchorum turned up nothing. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the weather for the last few days gets the same adjective so often applied to blooming aroids: stinks! From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Jun 2 17:54:17 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Ornithogalum Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 16:52:15 -0500 > >This plant, which I think most who grow it have in the selection 'Sochi', >closely resembles O. narbonense (a very easy, commercially available >species), but is less easy to establish. My best success with it is in >rather retentive soil, on the flat, where it gets some summer water; Dear Jane; Correct about the "cv" , but I have mine high and dry on a raised bed near to Junos, hardy cacti and Onco-bred iris. Summer baking! Thanks Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From susanann@sbcglobal.net Fri Jun 2 20:25:12 2006 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 17:25:06 -0700 **This is all interesting because I've grown Alstroemeria in my last garden (Central Coast of CA), and we brought some with us on our move North, and so we grow them here now (North CA Coast). They grow like weeds here (and there). I have the common hybrid kinds one finds in garden centers, and I have the low ones which aren't as hardy as the tall ones, and I have A. psitticina in both solid green leafed and the variegated leafed forms. The solid green leafed one is more hearty. The tall ones get lanky, but they grow in both sun and shade here, and I don't fertilize them particularly. Mostly I ignore them. Occasionally a gopher or mole will run though a clump, but usually some roots survive. (Now watch a Alstroemeria-loving rodent get all of mine.) The soil in our last garden was adobe clay on top of hard pan. Here we also have clay, with rocks below. The lower growing Alstroemerias are bothered by slugs and snails, but they flower in the ground and in half barrels. I love them all because you can pick the flowers and they last for weeks. And they don't seem to be bothered by frost. We had days of 27F in March, which is late for us, and they didn't seem to be affected. The stems die down, and if I'm in the mood I pull the stem off after flowering, as recommended (rather than cut the stems down). If I don't have time, the leaves and stems die down and leave a good mulch for the clumps. I brought up some mixed in the pots of roses when we moved, and I planted everything and occasionally a clump of Alstroemeria will show up. When I try to dig them, they're too deep and too close to the rose, so I succeed in massacring them; sometimes they show up again and sometimes they don't. It's hard to get pieces to share because one has to make sure a little piece of the growing point is included. I've had friends dig up plain old roots to share, thinking they'll grow plants, They don't. I'll try to add some photos of mine later tonight or tomorrow on the hybrid page. Mine are unnamed. Pretty things. s. >On the topic of Alstroemeria, I've planted out a number of ones that Roy >Sachs gave me in my garden. They come back and spread, but do not bloom so >this may be worse than having them die in a cold climate. I believe we >discussed this on another forum and if I remember the conclusion was they >needed better soil (or fertilization) than they can get in my garden. I >have one exception and that is one that resurrected from some tubers I >tossed and thought I had disposed of. In this one spot of my garden for a >number of years now I have a lot of blooms for months and months. They are >also spreading too much in this spot, but the flowers are so pretty I hate >to disturb them. > >Mary Sue >Dear Mary Sue; > I do not even vaguely pretend any knowledge about growing >these things, but I have found this cultivation guide thought >provoking... even if I don't follow it to the word. > http://www.roskam-youngplants.com/Alstroemeria_Cultivation_Guide.doc -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17. 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek of the ocean. From barryandjac@bigpond.com Fri Jun 2 20:26:46 2006 Message-Id: <000b01c686a4$5ea3a7e0$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 08:26:34 +0800 Hi Jane and Angela, I love princess lilies. They give such a nice show of flowers. I used to have one (at our old address) under a lemon tree which did very well. the first year I thought I had killed it but it had just died back for the season! LOL It doubled in size in the second year so must have liked the spot it was in. Mine seem to prefer it in the sun though. I just have to remember where they are (like my other bulbs so I don't accidentally try to plant over the top or dig them up! I am in WA too where the minimum gets down to about 5 here. Happy growing Jacinda > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From barryandjac@bigpond.com Fri Jun 2 20:30:57 2006 Message-Id: <001301c686a4$f29223a0$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Odontostomum Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 08:30:42 +0800 Hi Mary Sue, I have never seen that flower before of Odontostomum. I wonder if it is available in Western Australia/Australia. Will have to do some hunting. Hmmm! Another one to add to my collection! Jacinda Wilson, WA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From barryandjac@bigpond.com Fri Jun 2 20:54:11 2006 Message-Id: <004001c686a8$33979e40$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: OH Spring Report Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 08:54:00 +0800 Hi John, Wow! You have a lot of lovely plants in your garden it sounds. Very envious! Still not much flowering here. Winter about to begin. Hoping for a nice Spring show though. Regards Jacinda, WA. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From kellyo@wetrock.com Fri Jun 2 21:04:11 2006 Message-Id: <44807DDC.21431.2C622317@kellyo.wetrock.com> From: "Kelly O'Neill" Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2006 18:05:16 -0700 I have not had a lot of success w Alsto's yet. I have not given up. I hear they are mostly unhappy with cold and wet, not cold. Thats from a zone 7-8 perspective. Under unheated glass in winter may be there favorite place? I also note the ones i gave some shade seem to be doing better - maybe they stay dormant longer and do not try to grow in the coldest wettest time? Still learning on these, KellyO Kelly O'Neill Wet Rock Gardens Flower Farm U-Pick and more at the farm (open 9 to 6, Sun, Wed and Fri - from March thru Halloween): 2877 N 19th Street Springfield, Oregon 97477 To contact us: * Business Office for mail or by appointment only: gardens@wetrock.com * 1950 Yolanda AVE http://www.wetrock.com * Springfield, Oregon 97477 (541) 746-4444 * From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Fri Jun 2 21:29:55 2006 Message-Id: <002101c686ac$01353940$061ffea9@com> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 09:21:12 +0800 Hi Jacinta I am in Albany in WA and have lots of alstroes, email me angelasgarden@bigpond.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jacinda and Barry" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 8:26 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Alstroemeria > Hi Jane and Angela, > > I love princess lilies. They give such a nice show of flowers. I used to > have one (at our old address) under a lemon tree which did very well. the > first year I thought I had killed it but it had just died back for the > season! LOL > > It doubled in size in the second year so must have liked the spot it was in. > Mine seem to prefer it in the sun though. I just have to remember where > they are (like my other bulbs so I don't accidentally try to plant over the > top or dig them up! > > I am in WA too where the minimum gets down to about 5 here. > > Happy growing > > Jacinda > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Fri Jun 2 21:42:01 2006 Message-Id: <004101c686ad$b297e100$061ffea9@com> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Peonies Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 09:33:19 +0800 I am trying to grow herbaceous peonies, I have some in the ground and some in foam boxes, lifted off the ground. I have been told it is not cold enough here (we rarely get a frost) . Any information would be very appreciated. I am trying to grow them as cut flowers. Angela Albany W. Australia From msittner@mcn.org Fri Jun 2 22:44:10 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060602193606.0358f6c8@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Peonies Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2006 19:43:57 -0700 Dear Angela, Jim Waddick led us in a fascinating discussion on peonies when we were doing the topic of the week. Look under Paeonia here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2004-July/subject.html And his introductions: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2004-July/018866.html http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2004-July/018873.html In these introductions he wrote about ones for warm climates like California but the same should be true for Western Australia. On a trip to Australia a number of years ago I saw some wonderful ones blooming in Adelaide in a garden. They were Mediterranean species grown from seed and early bloomers so they would bloom before it got really hot and the garden took a rest for the summer. Hans donated seed to the BX and sent some to me and I picked some of the species Jim recommended to try. They didn't come up the first year, but this second year I have seedlings in all of the pots but one so I'm hoping one day to have some in my garden. Species selection I believe is the key. Mary Sue From susanann@sbcglobal.net Sat Jun 3 00:02:06 2006 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: New mystery bulb on the wiki Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 21:01:59 -0700 Please go to http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs to help Diana with the identification of a mystery Hymenocallis. She also has a Hippeastrum on the page. s. -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17. 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek of the ocean. From Theladygardens@aol.com Sat Jun 3 02:12:52 2006 Message-Id: <47b.24f08e0.31b28260@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Peonies Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 02:12:48 EDT Angela, my father always grew beautiful peonies so I love them. They are not easy to grow in California. I keep one peony plant. They do not like to be moved around or have their roots disturbed and when that happens they may not bloom for a few years. During the winter months here it is not cold enough, I purchase one of those cheap plastic jello rings from the grocery store, eat or throw out the jello. Fill the ring with water, slide it in the freezer. Every night for 6 weeks pull the ring of ice out, dump it out of the container and around the stem, stalk, marker or whatever is visible of your peony plant location. Fill the plastic container up with water and put it back in the freezer. If you miss a night or two it won't matter but this does seem to help with a bit of chilling. My peony plant is in bloom now and it is worth it. Also about those very expensive tree peonies that cost $150 or more. If you can afford one, fine, if you can't, locate a cheaper source that sells younger plants for a price you can tolerate and just plant it, ice it and assume neither the $150 plant or the $29 plant are going to bloom for a few years. By the time the plant is ready to bloom it will be larger. Carolyn Craft in Los Gatos, CA From ajbroome@xtra.co.nz Sat Jun 3 04:05:13 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.2.20060603195945.035866b0@pop3.xtra.co.nz> From: Andrew Broome Subject: Biarum carduchorum Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2006 20:05:08 +1200 Jim said... > A Google image search on the names Biarum carduchorum and > B. karduchorum turned up nothing. While there doesn't seem to be any pictures currently online (other than yours) the species seems valid (or accepted anyway). http://www.aroid.org/genera/biarum/ Unlike one of my mystery plants, labled as B. longifolium. I'm suspecting it's a corruption of B. tenuifolium although the 'folium' is more 'longi' than 'tenui' to my eye, especially when compared to the other species I grow, B. davisii. Sadly neither have flowered for me as yet but since they're relatively new additions to my aroid collection, I can wait... Andrew, hoping to add some new aroids to his collection over the next week or two... -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.1/355 - Release Date: 2/06/2006 From ang.por@alice.it Sat Jun 3 06:20:54 2006 Message-Id: <001401c686f6$d8516e90$314d0757@angelo1f9656d7> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: Ornithogalum Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 12:16:56 +0200 Some Ornithogalum are indeed invasive, like O.umbellatum and arabicum, but this is due to the excessively fertile soil. In habitat O.umbellatum isn't at all invasive and it grows usually in small clumps or lonely. O.arabicum also proliferates with an abnormal number of bulbils, which make a clump of leaves with no flowers in the following years and thus it needs to be digged and clean from all offsets and replant only the biggest bulbs. But other species like O.montanum and O.comosum are non offsetting even in cultivation and are worth to pot culture Angelo Porcelli Italy From john@floralarchitecture.com Sat Jun 3 06:43:35 2006 Message-Id: <20060603104334.18671.qmail@web36213.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 03:43:34 -0700 (PDT) Jane, The Princess lilies ('Zsa Zsa' and 'Paola') are hardy here in OH. When I said that I left something off my report, these were it. I planted 2 pots (that were divided into 4 plants at the time of planting) 2 years ago. They are up again this year. I will wait until my last day or so here before I pull all the foliage off. I've found that pulling the non-blooming foliage off in the spring helps force the blooming stems for the summer. Mine are planted on a gentle slope facing north but it is in full sun all day. The sun just came up and they are already getting a direct hit. The soil is pretty heavy clay with a compost top (from a few years of mulch). I tried 'Sweet Laura' a few years ago but it got rather pushed out from the encroaching sweet woodruff. I want to try a few more varieties this year but as you said, $12 to $20 a pop, it is rather discouraging. Not that I haven't spent that before, heck I've spent $36 for 3 gal lantana for the patio only to be frozen in the winter (it bloomed all summer though). John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat Jun 3 07:43:59 2006 Message-Id: <000601c68703$0097fc50$16002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Peonies Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 07:43:57 -0400 Angela, here's something else to keep in mind in growing and selecting garden peonies. If you are contemplating growing them for a cut flower business, this may be very important. Here in Maryland, all of the dozens of herbaceous peonies I've tried grow well. Peony bloom season here ranges from mid-April to early June. The temperatures during the mid-April to mid-May period are still moderate: there may be overnight freezes or more likely frosts during the early part of this period, and daytime temperatures do not go above 80 degrees F for long. The peonies which bloom during this period bloom beautifully. In many years, the temperatures begin to soar in late May and early June. Double flowered peonies which bloom during this time rarely produce good flowers. And if they do, the flowers do not last more than a day or two before they show signs of trouble. The colors are poor, faded or bleached and the form is often irregular. Single flowered peonies which bloom during this time open normally but frizzle in the heat right away. So I think you have two challenges to keep in mind: first you need to find peonies with a low chill requirement (the peony societies here in the US keep track of this and should be able to provide a list of cultivars suitable for warmer areas). Second, you need to find peonies which bloom during the coolest part of your spring. These typically will be the earliest blooming sorts. I don't know conditions in Western Australia at all, but I'll bet that late blooming double flowered peonies will not produce good flowers for you even if they survive, grow and produce flower buds. Good luck finding something suitable. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the last of the peonies are out there gasping for breath. From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Sat Jun 3 11:07:35 2006 Message-Id: <4481A700.CAE65846@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Peonies Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2006 08:13:04 -0700 Dear Angela: Herbaceous peonies need frost, the tree types do not. An alternative is to dump ice (left over from the no doubt frequent cocktail parties you have) on them as often as possible during the winter. You might be in for a long haul if you are growing them for cut flowers, you might do better with Alstromeria, which are great cut flowers. The flower production on the tree type is not that great, unless they are old plants, and I question if the stems would be suitable for cut flowers. Salpiglossis make superb cut flowers and this is another plant you might try if you wish unusual and not commonly grown cut flowers. Remember Lilies, they are superb as cut flowers. Cheers, John E. Bryan Angela and Dean Offer wrote: > > I am trying to grow herbaceous peonies, I have some in the ground and some in foam boxes, lifted off the ground. I have been told it is not cold enough here (we rarely get a frost) . Any information would be very appreciated. I am trying to grow them as cut flowers. > > Angela > Albany W. Australia > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From eob@peak.org Sat Jun 3 11:46:20 2006 Message-Id: From: "Ernie O'Byrne" Subject: OH Spring Report Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 08:46:05 -0700 I guess WA doesn't mean Washington ;-) Ernie O'Byrne Northwest Garden Nursery 86813 Central Road Eugene, ORegon 97402 USA USDA Z. 7B "Most stern moralists are in the habit of thinking of pleasure as only of the senses, and, when they eschew the pleasures of sense, they do not notice that the pleasures of power, which to men of their temperament are far more attractive, have not been brought within the ban of their ascetic self-denial." -- Bertrand Russell -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Jacinda and Barry Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 5:54 PM To: john@floralarchitecture.com; Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] OH Spring Report Hi John, Wow! You have a lot of lovely plants in your garden it sounds. Very envious! Still not much flowering here. Winter about to begin. Hoping for a nice Spring show though. Regards Jacinda, WA. From Antennaria@aol.com Sat Jun 3 12:05:47 2006 Message-Id: <251.b4ddbd1.31b30d53@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum - how hardy and long-lived is it? Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 12:05:39 EDT I created a new wiki page for the genus Ixiolirion and added two photos of I. tataricum. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Ixiolirion I bought bulbs last fall, and noticed the thin foliage over the past several weeks, but didn't notice any buds developing. To my surprise, the plants were in bloom one morning this past week, and I'm impressed just how pretty the flowers are... large, blue-purple trumpets, somewhat reminiscent of Triteliea. Not being familiar with the genus, I did a Google search at lunchhour yesterday to find out more. Seems that there are lots of species names, but most are reduced to synonymy with I. tataricum. There are only 2-3 species, from C. & SW Asia, and extending into China. The following link from the online eFlora of China is useful: http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=2&taxon_id=116676 Most websites seem to parrot hardiness information by saying it's only winter hardy to USDA Zone 6. The native range of the species suggests the plant is much hardier, and at least a couple websites I found give Zone 4 hardiness rating. This past winter was mild-ish here, probably no more than a Zone 6, so I'm curious to know if other people have experience growing this lovely plant, how cold hardy is it, and is it long-lived. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From davidxvictor@btinternet.com Sat Jun 3 12:09:05 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060603170001.03346ed0@btinternet.com> From: David Victor Subject: Alstromeria Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2006 17:08:54 +0100 I've just read the pieces about Alstromeria and their hardiness and thought that I might some experience from the UK. I grow a fair number of species Alstromeria, mainly from John Watson collections. All of them are grown in deep pots in a cold greenhouse - late frosts in my part of the UK (most years the last one is around this point of the year) make it impossible to grow them outside. Normally they flower in mid spring, mostly April time. However, this year, a cold period early in the year penetrated the greenhouse protection and destroyed some of the top growth. As a result, they have been set back by a couple of months and are just coming into flower now. A. pulchra, A. patagonica, A gayan, A. pelegrina and A. magenta are all in flower today and more are breaking. The Bomarea suffered a similar fate and are also in the process of flowering today. Incidentally, someone asked last year for me to swap notes on Watson's collections. Sadly, I have lost the note, so I would welcome a reminder of who it was. Best regards, David Victor From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat Jun 3 12:20:51 2006 Message-Id: <000901c68729$ae5012d0$7a022c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum - how hardy and long-lived is it? Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 12:20:50 -0400 Winter hardiness for Ixiolirion here in Maryland is not an issue. My experience suggests that like Allium caeruleum, it's easy to grow but needs dry summers. Because the Ixiolirion and the Allium are very inexpensive as bulbs go, most growers don't take their culture too seriously. They are both readily available, and have been so for decades. You would think local gardens would be stuffed with them by now. I'm convinced that both require dry summer conditions here. I've grown Allium caeruleum and Ixiolirion off and on for decades. Until I protected the Allium with a glass cover during the summer, it rarely reappeared or prospered or bloomed after the first year. Now that I cover it during the summer, it increases prodigiously and blooms very freely yearly. I'm not currently growing the Ixiolirion, but it's on the list of plants for my "summer dry beds". I'm going to try some of the small eastern Asian lilies such as Lilium cernuum, L. pumilum and L. concolor under these conditions, too. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the weather has done a flip flop; it's coolish and wet today, nothing like the nearly suffocating steam bath earlier this week. From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat Jun 3 12:27:28 2006 Message-Id: <000a01c6872a$9afaed30$7a022c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum - how hardy and long-lived is it? Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 12:27:27 -0400 I wrote that post on Ixiolirion before looking at Mark's photos and reading the text on the wiki. Some of what I wrote duplicates what Mark placed on the wiki - great minds.... Now that I've seen the photos, I'll say that Mark seems to have a much better colored form than any I've had in the past. As I've seen them, they are more magenta than blue. Catalogs always show them as blue, which would be very nice if true. Or are there good blue forms out there? Jim McKenney From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Jun 3 13:20:17 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060603101721.03be2ec8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum - how hardy and long-lived is it? Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2006 10:20:49 -0700 I've bought bulbs of Ixiolirion tataricum several times; they're readily available from commercial Dutch sources. However, I've never managed to establish them in the garden. I don't know whether the bulbs are badly affected by storage and shipping, or whether they simply don't tolerate mild, wet winter conditions (as might be true of a steppe plant). I'd like to try it from seed, a strategy that often aids success. As for its distribution and hardiness potential, this is difficult to deduce in the case of Central Asian bulbs. Those from the lower valleys may be rather tender, and those from higher elevations may require a strict, rather dry winter dormancy, just as plants from, say, the Rocky Mountains do. Do we know the elevational range of Ixiolirion? Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From msittner@mcn.org Sat Jun 3 13:44:35 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060603103953.035cd630@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum - how hardy and long-lived is it? Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2006 10:44:23 -0700 I'm really pleased to see this new wiki page and the pretty flowers. I've always wondered if they really bloomed. Like Jane, I've bought these a number of times from commercial sources and have never seen them flower, nor have they lasted longer than perhaps the second year. I finally concluded they weren't meant to be in my garden. They definitely need more than just a dry summer. I tried in Stockton too where it is much warmer in the summer. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Sat Jun 3 20:56:14 2006 Message-Id: <001701c68770$730f3060$061ffea9@com> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Alstromeria Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 08:47:24 +0800 Hello thanks David Can you tell me a little about the Bomarea, what do they look like, grow like? Angela ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Victor" To: Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 12:08 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Alstromeria > I've just read the pieces about Alstromeria and their hardiness and > thought that I might some experience from the UK. > > I grow a fair number of species Alstromeria, mainly from John Watson > collections. All of them are grown in deep pots in a cold greenhouse > - late frosts in my part of the UK (most years the last one is around > this point of the year) make it impossible to grow them > outside. Normally they flower in mid spring, mostly April > time. However, this year, a cold period early in the year penetrated > the greenhouse protection and destroyed some of the top growth. As a > result, they have been set back by a couple of months and are just > coming into flower now. A. pulchra, A. patagonica, A gayan, A. > pelegrina and A. magenta are all in flower today and more are breaking. > > The Bomarea suffered a similar fate and are also in the process of > flowering today. > > Incidentally, someone asked last year for me to swap notes on > Watson's collections. Sadly, I have lost the note, so I would > welcome a reminder of who it was. > > Best regards, > David Victor > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Sat Jun 3 21:01:01 2006 Message-Id: <002001c68771$22139240$061ffea9@com> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Peonies Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 08:52:18 +0800 Thanks for your information., What are Salpiglossis? There is a big commercial lily farm nearby, so I can buy them cheaper than I can grow them, but I still grow Stargazer and a couple of others. If I can grow peonies, or something that unusual (unusual for us!!), I can use them in wedding bouquets, also if I manage to grow them in foam boxes, I'm hoping to get them to grow all year round, by putting the whole box into a cold store (when I get one!!!) Angela ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Bryan" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 11:13 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Peonies > Dear Angela: > > Herbaceous peonies need frost, the tree types do not. An alternative is > to dump ice (left over from the no doubt frequent cocktail parties you > have) on them as often as possible during the winter. You might be in > for a long haul if you are growing them for cut flowers, you might do > better with Alstromeria, which are great cut flowers. The flower > production on the tree type is not that great, unless they are old > plants, and I question if the stems would be suitable for cut flowers. > Salpiglossis make superb cut flowers and this is another plant you might > try if you wish unusual and not commonly grown cut flowers. Remember > Lilies, they are superb as cut flowers. Cheers, John E. Bryan > > Angela and Dean Offer wrote: > > > > I am trying to grow herbaceous peonies, I have some in the ground and some in foam boxes, lifted off the ground. I have been told it is not cold enough here (we rarely get a frost) . Any information would be very appreciated. I am trying to grow them as cut flowers. > > > > Angela > > Albany W. Australia > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From Antennaria@aol.com Sat Jun 3 21:07:36 2006 Message-Id: <3af.3b02346.31b38c52@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: No comment on trilliums? Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 21:07:30 EDT Hello, From the complete absence of response, can I assume no one grows the various southeastern Trillium, except of course John Lonsdale who grows all of these treasures. How do these easy-to-grow yet lesser-known treasures grow for others. They're surprisingly hardy and successful here in northeastern USA. Surely, there must be some comment. What, Jim McK... no comment on any of these??? How do they grow for you all, do they set seed, can they be progagated, etc? Are trillium just not as interesting as Alstroemeria, Ornithogalum, or seemingly anything else? North America Trillium Key: http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=1&taxon_id=133668 Trillium reliquum http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_reliquum_2006b.jpg Trillium stamineum http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_stamineum_2006a.jpg Trillium lancifolium http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_lancifolium_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_lancifolium_2006c.jpg Trillium rugelii http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_rugelii_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_rugelii_2006b.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_rugelii_2006c.jpg Trillium catesbaei http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006b.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006c.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006d.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006g.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006h.jpg Trillium vaseyi http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_vaseyi_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_vaseyi_2006b.jpg Trillium grandiflorum 'Multiplex' http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_grandi_Multiplex_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_grandi_Multiplex_2006b.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_grandi_Multiplex_agepink.j pg Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com < From paige@hillkeep.ca Sat Jun 3 22:13:58 2006 Message-Id: <008d01c6877c$8a781da0$6a8157d1@m6u3j5> From: "Pacific Rim" Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum - how hardy and long-lived is it? Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 19:11:55 -0700 Jane McGary wrote: > I've bought bulbs of Ixiolirion tataricum several times; they're readily > available from commercial Dutch sources. However, I've never managed to > establish them in the garden. More than a decade ago, still unaware of what was truly hard to come by, I sowed seeds of I. tataricum from an exchange which, lucklily, proved to be true. Our stand continues to multiply both vegetatively and by seed. Demand for bulbs is scant because they are so cheap from Dutch growers. But the blue of the flowers is so electric and the trumpets are so conical, this is a plant that is fundamental even though easy to grow. Just as yoghurt, garlic, wine and other essentials should not be passed over. Paige Woodward paige@hillkeep.ca www.hillkeep.ca From susanann@sbcglobal.net Sun Jun 4 00:19:32 2006 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: Alstroemeria photos Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 21:19:25 -0700 I've posted photos of my tall and my short Alstroemeria hybrids. Unnamed. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/AlstroemeriaHybrids There's also a photo posted of the A. psittacina -variegated leaf. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Alstroemeria Beautiful flowers. s. -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17. 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek of the ocean. From perdy@mts.net Sun Jun 4 01:41:00 2006 Message-Id: <009a01c68799$6fa5f110$6600a8c0@your4f1261a8e5> From: "D Anderson" Subject: Alstroemeria photos Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 00:40:46 -0500 Hi, Susan. The A. psittacina - variegated leaf is a beauty! :) Donna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Susan Hayek" > There's also a photo posted of the A. psittacina -variegated leaf. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Alstroemeria > From dejager@bulbargence.com Sun Jun 4 02:07:51 2006 Message-Id: From: Lauw de Jager Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum - how hardy and long-lived is it? Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2006 08:06:06 +0200 Jane, Here as the same. Tried it seveal years and consistently disappeared. I decided that it is not adapted to the mediterranean climate and was removed from our catalogue. Greetings Lauw le 3/06/06 19:20, Jane McGary à janemcgary@earthlink.net a écrit : > I've bought bulbs of Ixiolirion tataricum several times; they're readily > available from commercial Dutch sources. However, I've never managed to > establish them in the garden. I don't know whether the bulbs are badly > affected by storage and shipping, or whether they simply don't tolerate > mild, wet winter conditions (as might be true of a steppe plant). Lauw de Jager http://www.bulbargence.com South of France (Climat méditerranéen; zone 8 Olivier) Latitude 34° N Altitude: 4m From barryandjac@bigpond.com Sun Jun 4 02:15:19 2006 Message-Id: <001e01c6879e$3f6ba6c0$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Peonies/Bulb Hobby business Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 14:15:16 +0800 Hi Mary and Angela and all, This topic on growth habits of peonies for warmer climates sounds fascinating! Will have to do some research. Am thinking of growing bulbs as a hobby seller but on a larger scale than in the past. Would like to work from home and am checking out my options. Will probably grow a bit of everything if past demands are a good indication of future ones! Any advice in this area greatly appreciated. Regards Jacinda _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From barryandjac@bigpond.com Sun Jun 4 02:26:26 2006 Message-Id: <003601c6879f$cd4ccc70$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Alstroemeria photos Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 14:26:23 +0800 Hi Susan and Paul, Loved your pics! Very pretty. Has got me enthused to get some more varieties. Jacinda Wilson Western Australia Sunny with clear skies. _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Sun Jun 4 06:41:05 2006 Message-Id: <001001c687c3$3bbe5660$0a5ba451@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: peony Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 12:40:01 +0200 Hello I have correctly bought a white peony (on the label was only the name peony nothing else),it is still very young, but the fragrance of 2 flowers is breathtaking, I let it grow in pot provisionally, until I know if the plant is hardy enough. if the plant is large enough am to split up and do 1 part on open land, and I leave the other in pot.And later I hope to sharing it with those ho that want. Regards Marie-Paule Belgium From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sun Jun 4 08:52:40 2006 Message-Id: <000601c687d5$c39a4910$c7002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: No comment on trilliums? Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 08:52:39 -0400 Mark McDonough asked ". What, Jim McK... no comment on any of these???" OK, you asked, so I'll reply. I grow Trillium stamineum, T. vaseyi, T. catesbaei, T. rugelii, T. grandiflorum in a double-flowered form among the ones you mention and also many others (including some Asian species). At few years ago there were over thirty Trillium species in this garden, but deer and drought have taken a toll more recently. The double-flowered Trillium grandiflorum has never successfully matured a flower here. The others are certainly charming or at least interesting. Many are worth having for their foliage alone, and as you have mentioned some are pleasantly fragrant (and some stink). And I've raised Trillium from seed to bloom. So yes, I share your enthusiasm in a big way. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where there are apparently no surviving wild Trillium populations in the immediate area. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Antennaria@aol.com Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 9:08 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] No comment on trilliums? Hello, From the complete absence of response, can I assume no one grows the various southeastern Trillium, except of course John Lonsdale who grows all of these treasures. How do these easy-to-grow yet lesser-known treasures grow for others. They're surprisingly hardy and successful here in northeastern USA. Surely, there must be some comment. What, Jim McK... no comment on any of these??? How do they grow for you all, do they set seed, can they be progagated, etc? Are trillium just not as interesting as Alstroemeria, Ornithogalum, or seemingly anything else? North America Trillium Key: http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=1&taxon_id=133668 Trillium reliquum http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_reliquum_2006b.jpg Trillium stamineum http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_stamineum_2006a.jpg Trillium lancifolium http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_lancifolium_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_lancifolium_2006c.jpg Trillium rugelii http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_rugelii_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_rugelii_2006b.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_rugelii_2006c.jpg Trillium catesbaei http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006b.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006c.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006d.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006g.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_catesbaei_2006h.jpg Trillium vaseyi http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_vaseyi_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_vaseyi_2006b.jpg Trillium grandiflorum 'Multiplex' http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_grandi_Multiplex_2006a.j pg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_grandi_Multiplex_2006b.j pg http://www.plantbuzz.com/rockgard/woodland/Trillium_grandi_Multiplex_agepink .j pg Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com < From msittner@mcn.org Sun Jun 4 10:23:54 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060604072313.037c9808@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Gentle Reminder Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2006 07:23:46 -0700 Dear All, For the sake of the digest subscribers please do not include the previous message you are responding to when you reply. A couple lines is sufficient. Thanks everyone for your help in this. Mary Sue PBS List Administrator From totototo@telus.net Sun Jun 4 10:55:51 2006 Message-Id: <20060604145550.DB16GDBNNF@priv-edmwaa06.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum - how hardy and long-lived is it? Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 07:58:06 -0700 On 3 Jun 06, at 10:20, Jane McGary wrote: > I've bought bulbs of Ixiolirion tataricum several times... > However, I've never managed to establish them in the garden. I > don't know whether the bulbs are badly affected by storage and > shipping, or whether they simply don't tolerate mild, wet winter > conditions (as might be true of a steppe plant). I have a patch here that flowers faithfully every year. I didn't plant it -- some former owner did, but he got the site exactly right. It's under a row of tall lodgepole pines where the soil is dry. Even in mid-winte it's dryish. Almost nothing else will grow there: Cyclamen hederifolium, usually a pretty tough plant, barely hangs on. Perhaps the very acid conditions in a bed of pine needles has something to do with the ixiolirion's success? And the site is pretty shady, too. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From mmattus@charter.net Sun Jun 4 11:13:23 2006 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: On trilliums and more Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2006 11:13:10 -0400 Of course Trillium are interesting Mark! Maybe the lack of response is because the season is just about over, and many have refocused on Ornithogalum and other bulbs. As a relatively close neighbor of yours, the most I can boast of is a few sand beds in the greenhouse of Rhodohypoxis in full bloom. Although, on a hike Friday, our native Painted Trillium, T. undulatum we're just past bloom. Mark, where does T. cuneatum fit on your list, or is it on the Key, and I just haven't looked yet? It's one of my favorites to grow, and I am not that far from you. Although, T. rivale is my ultimate favorite, but you always seem to out bid me at our local rare plant auctions! Here at the house, a rather tattered pot of Ornithogalum magnum is in bloom but rather sad looking since the foliage always gets ratty for me. I don't grow it in the ground, only in pots. Is it hardy here in Zone 5B anyone? Ornithogalum convallarioides is even in worse condition, and any hints on mastering this bulb would be appreciated. As soon as a leave emerges, slugs consume it over night. At least, that is what I think happens to it. Maybe a nice position on raised pie plate island surrounded by beer? It grown in a pot, in the greenhouse. O. fimbriatum is just about heading into dormancy here, I have it in the dry alpine sand bed in a small greenhouse going dry. For me, it blooms in January, in the cold glass house. I would welcome advice on two other plants too, first Alstroemeria caryophyllaea. I had a gallon pot, tossed and forgotten under a greenhouse bench, and today, I found it sprouting and looking quite nice actually. Should I plant it in a larger pot in the greenhouse, or in the ground in the greenhouse? I am assuming the ground, where it could possible bloom once again! My second advice ( or third!) request is a Peony issue - Paeonia californica. I received a seedling from John Lonsdale, and he told me to keep it protected in the cold greenhouse during our cold winters.. I am quite unfamiliar with this plant, so any advice on what I should expect and do with it would be appreciated! Plunge it? Large pot? Soil? Dormancy? A brief note on what's happening here, in this very wet and rainy Worcester Massachusetts garden (Zone 5B). Today, the white camassia which we're so well budded, are rotted. A singe plant remains. In the greenhouse plunge, a new pot of Cyrtanthus brachyscyphus has bloomed. Matt Mattus Worcester, Massachusetts Zone 5b On 6/3/06 9:07 PM, "Antennaria@aol.com" wrote: > Hello, > >> From the complete absence of response, can I assume no one grows the various > southeastern Trillium, except of course John Lonsdale who grows all of these > treasures. How do these easy-to-grow yet lesser-known treasures grow for > others. They're surprisingly hardy and successful here in northeastern USA. > Surely, there must be some comment. What, Jim McK... no comment on any of > these??? > ============================================== >>> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com < > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From lewisia@sbcglobal.net Sun Jun 4 13:25:59 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.2.20060604102107.023e5008@sbcglobal.net> From: Joyce Miller Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 6 Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2006 10:25:48 -0700 Dear All, I am relocating from Sacramento, California to Gresham, Oregon (due east of Portland, Oregon in the Willamette Valley). To prepare, I am shaking dormant winter growing geophytes from potting soil, washing and cleaning debris. Most of them are glads, Moraea, and lost labels. How long should I let them dry before packaging in paper? Thanks, Joyce Miller From piabinha@yahoo.com Sun Jun 4 13:33:15 2006 Message-Id: <20060604173315.15526.qmail@web51903.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: Alstroemeria (tropicals?) Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 10:33:15 -0700 (PDT) i wonder if people in the list in warmer climates do grow the more tropical species from southeastern brazil. are there Alstroemerias in other parts of the tropical americas? i have fond memories of hiking in brazil and finding these beauties in bloom. ========= tsuh yang __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Jun 4 15:26:30 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060604122349.00c4f590@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: On trilliums and more Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2006 12:27:03 -0700 Matt asked, My second advice ( or third!) request is a Peony issue - Paeonia >californica. I received a seedling from John Lonsdale, and he told me to >keep it protected in the cold greenhouse during our cold winters.. I am >quite unfamiliar with this plant, so any advice on what I should expect and >do with it would be appreciated! Plunge it? Large pot? Soil? Dormancy? This is essentially the same as P. brownii but from a more southerly range, so probably less cold-hardy. I had P, californica on the rock garden for about 5 years, and it survived temperatures in the single digits Fahrenheit, but did not flourish. I suggest you keep your seedling in a pot of moderate size over the coming winter, and pay attention to the fall issue of the Rock Garden Quarterly, which will contain an article by Paige Woodward on P. brownii and P. californica. Incidentally, and this is a real shot in the dark, I'm searching for someone to contribute something (short or long) on small ferns of Australia and New Zealand for that same issue. Do any of our readers in the Antipodes have suggestions? Jane McGary Editor, NARGS From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Jun 4 15:30:34 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060604122732.00c39680@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 6 Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2006 12:31:07 -0700 Joyce asked, I am relocating from Sacramento, California to Gresham, >Oregon (due east of Portland, Oregon in the Willamette Valley). Welcome, Joyce! We'll be neighbors. If I can help with storing your bulbs temporarily, let me know -- I have plenty of space. > To >prepare, I am shaking dormant winter growing geophytes from potting >soil, washing and cleaning debris. Most of them are glads, Moraea, >and lost labels. How long should I let them dry before packaging in >paper? Thanks, Joyce Miller > I would just put them on a screen or mesh flat or something similar for 2 days, out of the sun, and then put them in the paper bags or envelopes with a little dry vermiculite (obtainable at any garden center) to cushion them and moderate the moisture. If they're wet-growing bulbs you could get the vermiculite very slightly moist (this is how I store Galanthus bulbs during my sale, for instance). Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From vicm527@verizon.net Sun Jun 4 17:47:38 2006 Message-Id: <000601c68820$74ae7880$97b76347@viclynn> From: "VICTOR MAKELA" Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2006 17:47:17 -0400 I am growing several Alstroemerias here in central Florida. In pots...too wet in summer for them...but they do well in pots. I grow A. pelegrina - which I keep somewhat dry in summer and A. hookeri - which I keep very dry in summer. And a commercial hybrid I got in Home Depot. The hybrid and pelegrina do very well. A. hookeri blooms but the plant is lanky and the flower is small and pale pink. What other species of Alstroemeria are sub-tropical? Lynn Makela Tampa, FL Hot and dry - where is the rain? From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sun Jun 4 21:19:11 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6883e$0d5a2800$38022c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: On trilliums and more Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 21:19:10 -0400 Matt wrote: "My second advice ( or third!) request is a Peony issue - Paeonia californica." The advice which has been posted so far is good, but let me add one more very important point, important to those of us in the summer-wet east. As soon as the foliage dies down naturally, keep the plant dry until late fall. That at any rate is what I did with the seedling I got from from John Lonsdale) last year. This plant spent the winter in a cold frame - not so much for cold protection as to enable me to regulate the water. In this its second season here it's doing well. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the first lightning bugs of the year are flashing tonight. From barryandjac@bigpond.com Sun Jun 4 23:57:15 2006 Message-Id: <000901c68854$1ca65110$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: No comment on trilliums? Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 11:57:06 +0800 Hi Jim and Mark, I thought the trilliums were lovely. Have often eyed off the miniature types available in Australia. Am yet to buy one though. Loved the pictures and all the colour variations. Regards Jacinda Western Australia > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From Antennaria@aol.com Sun Jun 4 23:59:22 2006 Message-Id: <481.220f3d2.31b50613@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 23:59:15 EDT In a message dated 6/4/06 2:26:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Pacific Rim" paige@hillkeep.ca writes: More than a decade ago, still unaware of what was truly hard to come by, I sowed seeds of I. tataricum from an exchange which, lucklily, proved to be true. Our stand continues to multiply both vegetatively and by seed. Demand for bulbs is scant because they are so cheap from Dutch growers. But the blue of the flowers is so electric and the trumpets are so conical, this is a plant that is fundamental even though easy to grow. Just as yoghurt, garlic, wine and other essentials should not be passed over. Paige Woodward ========== Well, it's good to hear that that the plant multiplies and grows well for at least one respondant. Paige, what sort of garden conditions do you give this plant. I planted the bulbs here last autumn, at the edge of a 12-15" high raised sand bed (covered with pink bark mulch), but it's basically growing in sand with a trifle of loam mixed in. It would be nice if my plants were long-lived, but time will tell if it the corms get a dry enough summer rest... but I assume the raised sand bed helps ensure that happens. Even if they don't prove long-lived, the bulbs are cheap enough in the fall, to replant every now and then. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From barryandjac@bigpond.com Mon Jun 5 00:04:52 2006 Message-Id: <001501c68855$2fdfc670$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 6 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 12:04:47 +0800 Hi Joyce, If your geophytes are in growth I would not let them dry. I would maybe wrap them in some damp newspaper a few weeks before. I think if you allow them to dry out out of season then this would set them back the next season. This having been said, when I moved a few years ago I lifted bulbs, daffodils, in the green from the garden and they were fine. It did set them back though. I ws only moving within the same suburb though. Hope the move goes well. Jacinda Wilson, Western Australia Where it is sunny and about 17degrees with clear skies. ______ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From Antennaria@aol.com Mon Jun 5 00:06:36 2006 Message-Id: <4c8.af41d.31b507c7@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 00:06:31 EDT I thought this URL was useful... nice photos at least: http://davesgarden.com/pf/go/75697/index.html Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From Antennaria@aol.com Mon Jun 5 00:10:40 2006 Message-Id: <3af.3cabc46.31b508bd@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 5 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 00:10:37 EDT In a message dated 6/4/06 2:26:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,"Jim McKenney" jimmckenney@starpower.net writes: I've grown Allium caeruleum and Ixiolirion off and on for decades. Until I protected the Allium with a glass cover during the summer, it rarely reappeared or prospered or bloomed after the first year. Now that I cover it during the summer, it increases prodigiously and blooms very freely yearly. ======== Regarding A. caeruleum, I must try what you suggest, because the plants always look great the first year after planting, then they just produce leaves and dimished growth in subsequent years. Maybe you've found the secret to this plant's longevity in cultivation, I'll give it a try. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From Antennaria@aol.com Mon Jun 5 00:29:06 2006 Message-Id: <3f7.305503b.31b50d10@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum - how hardy and long-lived is it? Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 00:29:04 EDT Jane McGary janemcgary@earthlink.net wrote: "As for its distribution and hardiness potential, this is difficult to deduce in the case of Central Asian bulbs. Those from the lower valleys may be rather tender, and those from higher elevations may require a strict, rather dry winter dormancy, just as plants from, say, the Rocky Mountains do. Do we know the elevational range of Ixiolirion?" For Ixiolirion tataricum, the elevational range is not noted, but for another species, I. songaricum, it's listed as 400 m - 1600 m. The geographical range of I. tataricum suggests hardiness in spite of elevational range, depending on the source of the plant. From the eFlora of China: ================== 1a. Ixiolirion tataricum var. tataricum Perianth azure to dark violet, segments 1--7 mm wide, not connivent proximally into a pseudotube. Fl. Apr--Jun. Valleys, sandy places, waste grasslands. N Xinjiang [Afghanistan, Kazakhstan, Pakistan, Russia, Turkmenistan]. 1b. Ixiolirion tataricum var. ixiolirioides (Regel) X. H. Qian, Bull. Bot. Res., Harbin. 4(2): 158. 1984. Kolpakowskia ixiolirioides Regel, Trudy Imp. S.-Peterburgsk. Bot. Sada 5: 635. 1878; Ixiolirion ixiolirioides (Regel) Dandy; I. kolpakowskianum Regel. Perianth light blue, segments 1--3 mm wide, laxly connivent proximally into a ca. 1 cm long pseudotube. Fl. Apr--May. Stony slopes. N Xinjiang [Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan]. Rudolf Kamelin (pers. comm.) notes that this taxon differs from var. tataricum in other characters and would be better recognized at the rank of species. =================== Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From Antennaria@aol.com Mon Jun 5 00:59:25 2006 Message-Id: <3d8.39c4789.31b5142a@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: On trilliums and more Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 00:59:22 EDT Hello Matt et al, Yes indeed, you are indeed a relative "neighbor", and I'm happy to se tour posting. Regarding your report of seeing the native Painted Trillium, T.undulatum, it is indeed a beauty. I don't grow it, but have seen it flowering around the base of Mt. Washington in New Hampshire. There are so many wonderful trillium to grow. I hear that this species is difficult. >Mark, where does T. cuneatum fit on your list, or is >it on the Key, and I just haven't looked yet? I haven't grown T. cuneatum yet... there are so many eastern USA species, I have only scratched at the surface. And quite frankly, it has taken enthusiastic research and wonderlust of an Englishman, John Lonsdale, to bring our own native flora to such forefront. Thanks John, for sharing with me these wonderful Trillium, which are increasing and beginning to seed about (from my scratching in the seed into the mulch beds) when seed is set, but seed prospects this season look unlikely due to the high level of rain and aborting pods. Regarding Ornithogalum, I have one from Jane McGary that I planted 3 years ago... still haven't seen flowers yet. I can't remember the name, and would have to run out in the rain to remind myself of the name... I do think there are good Ornithogalum to grow. > Today, the white camassia which we're so well budded, are rotted. I'm, sorry to hear that. I have a raised sand bed where I grow C. leichtlinii 'Semiplena', and after a good number of years, it has now increased and currently has fourteen 3'-tall flowering stems with showy creamy off-white flowers... one of my favs. This year, the tips of the long candles of bloom are browning (too much rain), but for the most part it looks to be a good year. On the other hand, my mature clump of Eremurus stenophyllus started sprouting this year, but turned to mush in the heaavy rains, and finally perished. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Mon Jun 5 07:22:23 2006 Message-Id: <001e01c68892$2ac4c860$a55ba451@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: peonies Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 13:21:18 +0200 Hello Carolyn and Alberto, Thank You very much for this information, I leave it then in pot for a couple of years, because the fragrans and the blooms are beautiful. Now I know why my other 2 peonies do not want to trive, because previous spring I have replace them. it is too bad that, at Your place,Carolyne, the peonies are dificult to grow. Kind Regards to Alberto and Carolyne Belgium From mmattus@charter.net Mon Jun 5 08:17:59 2006 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: On trilliums and more Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2006 08:17:56 -0400 Mark, actually that is what has happened to my Camasia. I have them planted under a magnolia, which has grow too big before I could move it (Ironic: Feeling as if one should relocate a yellow Magnolia because of some bulbs...and not the other way around!). We're crazy! Anyway, I haven't lost the bulbs, just the tips. I do love C. leichtlinii semiplena, in fact, I just featured it on my blog, www.exploraculure.blogspot.com I am always looking for bulb that boom during this tiny gap between May and June where the ephemerals are completed, and the June flush hasn't started. Matt Mattus Zone 5b Worcester, MA And it is sunny today finally! I have a raised sand bed where I grow C. > leichtlinii 'Semiplena', and after a good number of years, it has now > increased and > currently has fourteen 3'-tall flowering stems with showy creamy off-white > flowers... one of my favs. This year, the tips of the long candles of bloom > are > browning (too much rain), but for the most part it looks to be a good year. > On > > From tony@plantdelights.com Mon Jun 5 09:14:52 2006 Message-Id: <44842E4D.8040502@plantdelights.com> From: Tony Avent Subject: No comment on trilliums? Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2006 09:14:53 -0400 Mark: Sorry for the slow reply about southern trilliums. We have been working with these species (T. maculatum, T. lancifolium, T. foetidissimum, T. ludovicianum, T. gracile, T. recurvatum, T. catesbiae, T. rugellii, T. pusillum, T. reliquum, T. cuneatum, T. luteum, T. vaseyi, T. erectum, T. decumbens, T. decipiens, T. underwoodii, etc. for nearly 10 years. Since 2001, have been growing large numbers of hand pollinated seed from our garden plants. The first of these are finally beginning to appear in our catalog. You will see many more as the years go by, but with any crop that has a 5-7 year production time, patience is certainly required. John Lonsdale and I have visited each others' gardens this spring and we both seem to be on the same track with regards to these trilliums. The future for nursery propagated southern trilliums, including some really outstanding forms, is very exciting. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent Antennaria@aol.com wrote: >Hello, > >From the complete absence of response, can I assume no one grows the various >southeastern Trillium, except of course John Lonsdale who grows all of these >treasures. How do these easy-to-grow yet lesser-known treasures grow for >others. They're surprisingly hardy and successful here in northeastern USA. >Surely, there must be some comment. What, Jim McK... no comment on any of these??? >How do they grow for you all, do they set seed, can they be progagated, etc? >Are trillium just not as interesting as Alstroemeria, Ornithogalum, or >seemingly anything else? > > > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Jun 5 09:51:52 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Peonies Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 08:23:26 -0500 Dear Angela and all; My apologies for not replying more quickly. I am just back from 3 weeks in China and Tibet researching peonies (with Paige Woodward and others). Here's a multi part answer: 1. Can you grow peonies? First look around and ask around. Does anyone in your neighborhood, city, state grow peonies in the garden. garden center or nursery? This may be THE MOST telling. 2. Contact growers in Australia. The most informative person is Elisabeth Rundle " The Peony Lady'. She is now in Canberra, but has run a commercial nursery for years. Check out her web site at: http://www.peony.com.au/ and contact her by email or phone. Also check the list of Australian growers at http://www.nurseriesonline.com.au/PAGES/Peonies.html and the 'fact sheet' at http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s933726.htm is informative and specific. ie.: Do some local research. 3. I checked my atlas and find that Albany W.A. is around 35 degrees S latitude. At an equal latitude north peonies are no problem at all, but latitude is not climate. If you are actually sure you want to grow peonies for cut flowers, you probably mean the cultivars of P. lactiflora or 'Chinese peonies'. These are the most demanding of a cold dormancy and chilling period. These will be the most difficult for you to grow. Have you considered the various hybrids which require less chilling and include the newer corals, salmons and yellows? Even easier to grow at low or no chill are the tree peonies. There are a number of excellent growers and hybridizers of tree peonies in Australia most prominently Bernard Chow, but various others. Perhaps the Intersectinoals will prove even better for your area. 4. In summary, I suggest you read a good modern book in peonies. I recommend 'Peonies' by Allan Rogers available both hard and soft bound via Amazon and many others. There is a chapter devoted to 'Getting Started Commercially'. Finally you might go to http://www.peonies.org/ , the Heartland Peony Society and review their FAQs on related topics. Good luck. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Jun 5 09:51:56 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 08:27:13 -0500 Dear all; My experience reflects others. I bought a number of bulbs cheaply and planted them around. Most bloomed the first spring then disappeared. Eventually a few showed up here and there, and now continue to bloom and multiply in out of the way corners mostly where they get the least care. They are blooming now and a nice color if not a 'floral display'. They ended up a nice, modest surprise here and there in generally drier/good drainage parts of the garden that get well baked in summer. They are cheap enough that it is easy to try them around the garden and see what survives. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Jun 5 09:51:59 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: On trilliums Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 08:48:35 -0500 Dear all; As a sole midwest voice. I grow quite a few Trilliums and some are exceptional. My favorites include T. recurvatum which grows like a weed self sowing around and popping up widely in a shady garden . The small ruby red flowers are like spring jewels held well above the foliage. T. viridescens while not a great beauty is native here and grows very well with no care at all. And it stays in tidy clumps. T pusillum ozarkanum is a TINY beauty. It is the first T. to bloom and at about 4 inches tall it needs some searching. It has spread slowly in small clumps of a few dozen plants and more self sown seedlings. Amazingly freeze and drought tolerant. The perfect white flowers fade to pink over a long bloom period. T. underwoodii and T. discolor have to get awards for their gorgeous foliage. Both are like subtle mosaics of various shades of green and maroon with an almost stained-glass-like appearance. T. underwoodii is the better grower of the two. I do like the yellows especially yellow T. luteum and others. I have a few T. luteum among the T. recurvatum where they mix very well, but in another planting of just luteum they glow in spring sun. I have another dozen or so species here and there and they mostly do well except T. grandiflorum. Really only a single plant by itself in one spot only 'thrives'*, blooms and looks 'happy'. Others in other spots mostly sulk and the double flowered form has only bloomed once in 10 years. Some are essentially curiosities like T. decumbens which just lies flat on the ground. And others are larger and healthy, but not terribhly excitiing (T. cuneatum comes to mind). I may have missed all the Trillium comments, but has no one mentioned two excellent recent books on this Genus ? Trillium by Fred and Roberta Case (Timber Press) and Trilliums in Woodlanmd and gardens: American Treasure by Don & Rob Jacobs (privately Published. Both are filed with plant-lusting color pix and extensive quantities of info. Best Jim W. * "Thrives' Here in the Trillium context is relative. T. grandiflorum at its most happy gets less than a foot tall , has one flowering stem and does not multiply. maybe 'survives' is a better word. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From davidxvictor@btinternet.com Mon Jun 5 11:31:21 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060605161507.0335aed8@btinternet.com> From: David Victor Subject: Ixiolirion tataricum Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2006 16:20:47 +0100 Jim Archibald had seeds from four of his Iranian collections of this species on his seed list last year. One was collected at 1600m and another at 2300m. I saw the species growing in Kazakhstan two years ago at nearer to 3000m on open, rocky slopes. This is an area with heavy species tulip fields. The plant was growing and flowering soon after snow melt. My guess is that it is pretty hardy, although it will probably have good snow cover through the winter and, as it comes from a continental climate, it will not be used to random late frosts. Best regards, David Victor From chadschroter@yahoo.com Mon Jun 5 12:42:09 2006 Message-Id: <20060605164209.24163.qmail@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Chad Schroter Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 09:42:09 -0700 (PDT) John, I still have the 2 "princess lilies" I recieved from you in a trade. They are in the ground - but have not spread much - perhaps that accounts for the high price ? I have not tried to divide them - that would probably speed things up. The regular Ligtu and aurea forms I grow inside of 5 gallon plastic pots with the bottoms cut out - sunk into the ground to rim level - to control their spread. This works for 3-4 years before they need to be re-freshed as the pot is 100% full of root. I also have a clear pink form with smallish flowers. It originally came from the UC Berkeley Botanic Garden plant sale. It only gets 1-2 feet high with a unique leaf structure - more of a whorl around the stem - glaucous blue/gray color. A polite self sower. Attempts to transplant pieces of the root almost always fail... Chad Schroter Los Gatos CA Zone 9 Floral Architecture wrote: Jane, The Princess lilies ('Zsa Zsa' and 'Paola') are hardy here in OH. When I said that I left something off my report, these were it. I planted 2 pots (that were divided into 4 plants at the time of planting) 2 years ago. They are up again this year. I will wait until my last day or so here before I pull all the foliage off. I've found that pulling the non-blooming foliage off in the spring helps force the blooming stems for the summer. Mine are planted on a gentle slope facing north but it is in full sun all day. The sun just came up and they are already getting a direct hit. The soil is pretty heavy clay with a compost top (from a few years of mulch). I tried 'Sweet Laura' a few years ago but it got rather pushed out from the encroaching sweet woodruff. I want to try a few more varieties this year but as you said, $12 to $20 a pop, it is rather discouraging. Not that I haven't spent that before, heck I've spent $36 for 3 gal lantana for the patio only to be frozen in the winter (it bloomed all summer though). John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From YOURCH@nortel.com Mon Jun 5 14:08:11 2006 Message-Id: <45409CEDA4EFB7428420872E126CFB010C161267@zrtphxm2.corp.nortel.com> From: "James Yourch" Subject: New photos: Crinum, Habranthus, and Hymenocallis Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 14:08:06 -0400 Hi all, The Crinum blooming season continues and I have uploaded new Crinum photos to the wiki, including some of Jim Shield's hybrid of bulbispermum and lugardiae. If interested in viewing them please use the following links. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#Appleb lossom http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#bulbis permumXlugardiae http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#EagleR ock http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#Imperi alGuard http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#LouisB osanquet http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#Monter eyDelight http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#Parfai t http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#Summer Glow http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#Twelve Apostles http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#virgin icum http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#WhiteQ ueen I also added a new photo of Habranthus martinezii. This is a direct link to the photo because there is only one and there are no anchors on the Habranthus page. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Habranthus/Habranthus_martin ezii_Group_JAY.jpg I also added a new species, Hymenocallis traubii, to the Hymenocallis page: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Hymenocallis#traubii Enjoy! Regards, Jay From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon Jun 5 14:11:38 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060605110522.00c3cfc0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Camassia (was On trilliums and more) Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2006 11:12:08 -0700 Matt wrote, I do love C. leichtlinii >semiplena, in fact, I just featured it on my blog, >www.exploraculure.blogspot.com Some people, including garden writers, regard this plant as ugly. It is a large form, up to a meter tall, with semidouble greenish cream flowers. I think to look good, it has to form a large colony, as mine now have. One problem is that the flowers close up at night and in dim weather, so they don't appear at their best except on sunny days. Camassia is a neglected genus in the garden, even here where it is native. The leaves, like those of Colchicum, are large and floppy and die away unattractively in midsummer. One particularly good form is the population of C. quamash that grows around Puget SOund in Washington; it has been distributed as seed under the name "Puget Blue." It's quite large and deep in color, and comes true from seed here. 'Orion', a Dutch C. quamash selection, is a dwarf form only about 10 in/25 cm tall, dark blue. 'Blue Melody', also Dutch, has attractively cream-margined leaves and mid-blue flowers; it's also short-growing. There is a good deep blue form of C. leichtlinii growing in ditches around here, but to my shame I have not brought it into the garden; I must remember to throw a shovel in the car one day soon and dig some. The more typical C. leichtlinii (from which the double form discussed above is derived) has cream flowers and grows more to the south. I also grow C. cusickii from eastern Oregon, but its pale gray-blue flowers don't please me much. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From Antennaria@aol.com Mon Jun 5 16:18:02 2006 Message-Id: <1f5.1fb6d44b.31b5eb70@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: nursery propagated southern trilliums Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 16:17:52 EDT Thanks Tony for describing your work with southern Trilliums, it does indeed sound exciting, and our gardens will be the richer for it. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 http://www.PlantBuzz.com From Antennaria@aol.com Mon Jun 5 16:31:39 2006 Message-Id: <3f4.319bd86.31b5ee9e@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Peonies Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 16:31:26 EDT Jim Waddick wrote: "If you are actually sure you want to grow peonies for cut flowers, you probably mean the cultivars of P. lactiflora or 'Chinese peonies'." Not a geophytic peony, so perhaps a little off-topic, but I snapped a couple shots of Paeonia lactiflora 'Buckeye Belle' yesterday, between rain showers. It's the most intense red ever, almost black-red in bud, a truly striking variety. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Paeonia_lacti_Buckeye_Belle.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Paeonia_lacti_Buckeye_Belle_2.jpg Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From jimmckenney@starpower.net Mon Jun 5 17:26:13 2006 Message-Id: <000001c688e6$ab051350$bf002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Peonies Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 17:26:10 -0400 Mark, 'Buckeye Belle' is indeed a striking variety. But it is not a cultivar of Paeonia lactiflora. It's a hybrid of P. lactiflora and P. officinalis. It's a good example of a peony which should be considered by those who garden in climates where spring heats up quickly. The Paeonia officinalis parent gives it its early blooming season. They're all wonderful. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where peony season 2006 is already a memory. From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Mon Jun 5 18:28:13 2006 Message-Id: <20060605222812.22584.qmail@web86704.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> From: BRIAN WHYER Subject: Camassia (was On trilliums and more) Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 23:28:12 +0100 (BST) I am surprised at Jane's comments about the double white form of leichtlinii closing at night. I find this much more showy than the single. With a torch I have just counted 18 flowers fully out now (11.00pm, 14C) on 1 spike. I find position very important in my garden. In full sun the single form flowers get burnt off after a few hours full sun, in light shade they may last for 2 or 3 days, so that many more flowers are out at any one time. The double form lasts longer. I get lots of seed from the white form, but none from the blue, even though I have bought 3 forms over the years. The Garden House in Devon has a wide colour range naturalised in the wilder areas, so presumably they get blue form seed. The sterile form Electra is very showy, with flowers of a good clear blue, at least 50% larger than the normal forms, on a larger taller plant. This has limited availability here for 6-7GBP, but seems a bit expensive on a US daffodil website at $35. It flowers between the blue and white forms for me. Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 Jane McGary wrote: Some people, including garden writers, regard this plant as ugly. It is a large form, up to a meter tall, with semidouble greenish cream flowers. I think to look good, it has to form a large colony, as mine now have. One problem is that the flowers close up at night and in dim weather, so they don't appear at their best except on sunny days. From jimmckenney@starpower.net Mon Jun 5 18:45:08 2006 Message-Id: <000001c688f1$b0fb8f90$03012c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Camassia (was On trilliums and more) Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 18:45:04 -0400 I don't think I would call that double-flowered white Camassia ugly, but I have to admit that when I grew it about twenty years ago I wasn't sure what to make of it. From a distance of a few yards it looks like the tuberose cultivar 'The Pearl' (which is sometimes called simply 'Pearl'). I would say the one to have is Camassia leichtlinii in a good blue form. It's a carefree plant in this garden, and a mass in full bloom is beautiful if fleeting. Jane, please tell us more about the cultivar of Camassia quamash called 'Puget Blue'. I've had Camassia quamash in several forms over the years, but it's so short compared to C. leichtlinii that it's harder to place in the garden. When you described 'Puget Blue' as large, were you describing the size of the flower of the height of the plant? The context seems to suggest that you had height in mind. Is that so? How tall is it? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where some of the modern super lilies are already over seven feet high. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon Jun 5 19:44:43 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060605163906.00c54390@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Camassia (was On trilliums and more) Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2006 16:45:17 -0700 Jim asked, Jane, please tell us more about the cultivar of Camassia quamash called >'Puget Blue'. I've had Camassia quamash in several forms over the years, but >it's so short compared to C. leichtlinii that it's harder to place in the >garden. When you described 'Puget Blue' as large, were you describing the >size of the flower of the height of the plant? The context seems to suggest >that you had height in mind. Is that so? How tall is it? It is larger in all its parts. The scapes are 18-24 inches high, and the individual florets more than an inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. The leaves are correspondingly large. Compared with 'Orion' the inflorescence is much larger and denser, and the tepals both broader and of greater substance. However, it's not a cultivar; it's more of a garden strain derived from certain populations of what I presume to be C. quamash var. maxima (the species has five varieties; I think the small cultivars are derived from var. quamash). I grew mine from seed donated to NARGS by a member in the Seattle area years ago. Maybe I can dig some up and put small bulbs on my list this summer. It's definitely worth growing. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Mon Jun 5 20:58:20 2006 Message-Id: <20060606005820.58229.qmail@web34313.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: On trilliums Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 17:58:20 -0700 (PDT) Hello, As the other sole midwest voice I'll give my two cents! I have seen all the same Trillium as John Lonsdale in the wild. The Trillium cannot be beat in early spring. They are fabulous, but sadly short seasoned. This season is already fading. The only Trillium still standing are those that set seed. Even the early Phlox are done, with the summer ones just starting. Now waiting for the first of the good trumpet Lilium to start. If you want scent, find a wild location of discolor and walk in to the woods during peak bloom. This past spring I found a site that, upon exiting the car, smelled of lemon cream soda! It was amazing. Some cuneatum are orangy-vanilla scented, and some pumpkin bread, and some.... Then there are the putrid species: the aptly named foetidissimum, and stamineum, which is like the worst foot fungus you could imagine in full bloom on a warm day. For foilage the sessile species cannot be beat. Decipiens take the cake and then a form of underwoodii that forms decent clumps. Reliquum provides the same, if slightly earlier effect. The pedicillates provide bloom later, except for the early pusillum complex. Ozarkanum in one form is miniature, the other wild populations I've seen are quite large, relatively. Here a half hour south of Jim Waddick, grandifloum forms decent clumps, but I do have and excess of limestone a foot or less under the topsoil. Sadly though vaseyi & simile have done the worst. Most attribute it to the heat, but I think it may be more the lack of water when the new roots initiate in late May, just as the 3 month drought begins each year. I am trying something new this year, fingers crossed. Hybrids between rugelli and vaseyi have done well and clumped up. To bad the flowers are pendant. I grow all of the eastern species, plus some, and most have performed really well. Some selections have done better than others, but few have been picky as to location. A decent soil with some supplemental moisture suits them well. Catesbaei wants sandier soil, but I do have one clone from the mountains of South Carolina that grows over amphobolite (higher pH) that has done extremely well in the garden here. What about Paris? They have done moderatley well here, and the flowers last, and last. All the best, Aaron Floden __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Mon Jun 5 10:06:13 2006 Message-Id: <4484E41B.3A6E91F0@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Peonies Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2006 19:10:35 -0700 Dear Angela & Dean; Salpiglossis are either annuals or perennials, 24 to 36 inches in height, flower from late spring through he summer until the frost. Flowers not unlike a petunia in shape & size, colors in flowers much varied, marbled and with contrasting colors, shades of red, orange, yellow, purple and pink shades, and all are superb. Dutch iris with successive plantings might also be a cut flower for you, note successive plantings. Purists of this forum, forgive me for mentioning an annual! Cheers, John E. Bryan Angela and Dean Offer wrote: > > Thanks for your information., > What are Salpiglossis? There is a big commercial lily farm nearby, so I can > buy them cheaper than I can grow them, but I still grow Stargazer and a > couple of others. > If I can grow peonies, or something that unusual (unusual for us!!), I can > use them in wedding bouquets, > also if I manage to grow them in foam boxes, I'm hoping to get them to grow > all year round, by putting the whole box into a cold store (when I get > one!!!) > Angela > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Bryan" > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 11:13 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Peonies > > > Dear Angela: > > > > Herbaceous peonies need frost, the tree types do not. An alternative is > > to dump ice (left over from the no doubt frequent cocktail parties you > > have) on them as often as possible during the winter. You might be in > > for a long haul if you are growing them for cut flowers, you might do > > better with Alstromeria, which are great cut flowers. The flower > > production on the tree type is not that great, unless they are old > > plants, and I question if the stems would be suitable for cut flowers. > > Salpiglossis make superb cut flowers and this is another plant you might > > try if you wish unusual and not commonly grown cut flowers. Remember > > Lilies, they are superb as cut flowers. Cheers, John E. Bryan > > > > Angela and Dean Offer wrote: > > > > > > I am trying to grow herbaceous peonies, I have some in the ground and > some in foam boxes, lifted off the ground. I have been told it is not cold > enough here (we rarely get a frost) . Any information would be very > appreciated. I am trying to grow them as cut flowers. > > > > > > Angela > > > Albany W. Australia > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From barryandjac@bigpond.com Mon Jun 5 22:58:47 2006 Message-Id: <008c01c68915$1e1b4520$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Mark's Peonies Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 10:58:41 +0800 Hi Mark, The colour of your peonies is just gorgeous! I am going to try and get some from the Eastern States to grow and trial. Will let you know how I go Angela and everyone. Thanks Jim and everyone for all teh advice on growing requirements. Regards Jacinda Wilson, Western Australia Where it is cold but sunny with clear skies again. feel sorry for all those farmers needing rain! > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From Antennaria@aol.com Mon Jun 5 23:22:10 2006 Message-Id: <494.217481b.31b64edc@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: sick day -floral review Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 23:22:04 EDT At home, sick today with a menacing sore throat and earache, I used the opportunity to wander around the garden and take some notes and photos, which I'll share with you here. Trits and Brods =========== Triteleia laxa 'Humbolt Star' went from 2 flowering stems last years and years past, to 10 flowering stems this year! http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Trit_laxa_Humbolt_Star_buds.jpg Sadly, right next to it, I cleared away two mushy leaf remnants from T. laxa 'Sierra Giant', our abundant rain in the last several weeks too much for it. I hope the corms are okay. Same thing happened with T. ixioides var. scabra 'Tiger' and other selections. In spite of the rain, T. grandiflora howelii flowered nicely, and there are a few solid seed capsules. To my surprise, a couple weeks ago I spied the tiny yellow T. lemmoniae in flower. I had forgotten where I planted a couple bulbs from Jane McGary. It too is setting firm seed capsules. Triteleia hyacinthina is winning the Trit race, seeding about freely and producing a small forest of flower stems. Two bulbs of this species bought from Jane McGary last year, look as though they'll open flowers much sooner than my existing form... which is what I was hoping for, some genetic diversity. T. bridgesii has the same two reliable flower stems that it's produced for the last 5 years, except there is a smaller 3rd flowering stem this year... finally some increase on this splendid species. All of these are amply covered photographically on the PBS wiki. Brodiaea stellaris appears to have died out after a good run in years, although B. purdyi nearby slowly increases, and I count 12 flowering stems. While I see buds now, the blue-purple flowers don't open until July. Calochortus ======== C. uniflorus evidently flowered... I see 4 seed capsules, but I missed the bloom. C. luteus from Paige Woodward is showing a flower bud... a fairly reliable doer here. The cultivar 'Golden Orb' sold by Dutch growers, looks identical in flower, but only lasted 1 year for me. C. vestae, from Jane McGary, reliable sprouts a couple narrow leaves, but no flowers. Allium ===== Lots and lots of Allium in bloom. This year I'm particularly impressed with two cultivars of Allium victorialis that Paige Woodward once offered in her catalog, 'Kamerovo' and 'Cantabria'. They are similar in general appearance, but there are key differences: In the following view, both cultivars are shown growing side by side, 'Kamerovo' on the left and 'Cantabria' on the right. Unlike the form of A. victorialis I've grown for about 18 years, in these selections the growth is perfectly upright, making a bold statement, holding the yellowish-cream color flower heads on strong 24" (60 cm) stems in 'Kamerovo', and up to 4" (+10 cm) taller in 'Cantabria'. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_victor_cultivars_2006a.jpg A view of the flowers looking straight down, shows that 'Kamerovo' has base of the pedicels colored red, and slightly smaller flowers compared to the dense compressed spheres of 'Cantabria'. Kamerovo has smaller, darker green foliage than the other. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_victor_cultivars_2006b.jpg The flowers on each close-up: http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_victor_Kamerovo_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_victor_Cantabria_2006a.jpg A view of my very old clump of Allium victorialis, with beautiful lily-of-the-valley-like foliage spreading 24" across (60 cm). The flowers stems tend to splay out in an upward ascending way, for less apparent height, and in this form, the flowers are white. In all the years I've grown this, I have yet to find a single self-sown seedling. Maybe the big black shiny round seeds are eaten by insects, mice or chipmunks? This species appreciates heavy moist soil and open shade. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_victor_foliage.jpg A couple of other "broad-leaf" alliums are closely related to A. victorialis. One is Allium listera, a Chinese endemic. I had two clones from Darrell Probst, who collected the plant in China. Both were similar, but chipmunk tunneling killed one clone and nearly did in the other, although it made a come back. The spring foliage is remarkable, emerging a strong ruddy pinkish color and glossy. It turns green, as you can see in the photo. It flowers in July or August, with a small, unremarkable sphere of widely spaced wispy white flowers. It likes growing in shade. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_listera_foliage.jpg Allium ovalifolium ends up as the real identity of plants labelled A. aciphyllum from Chen Yi in China. Two different plants emerged from the bulbs received, one with the more typical oval foliage (A. ovalifolium var. ovalifolium), and another with variable foliage but typically much narrower, with a distinct whitish nerve down the center of the leaf (A. ovalifolium var. leuconeurum). They should have similar insignificant wisps of whitish flowers, but I haven't seen these yet... maybe this year. Again, these are shade-loving plants. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_ovali_leuconeurum.jpg Allium altissimum, my plants from Turkemistan, is perhaps the tallest Allium in the genus, always topping out several inches over 5 feet (150 cm). This year there were 5 bloom heads, which bent over in the rain, now trying to turn upright again. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_altissimum_1.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_altissimum_2.jpg Allium 'Globus' was particularly nice this year... a dumb name for a good hybrid between A. karataviense and A. stipitatum. I like the silvery pink color break from the usual purple globes. In the 2nd photo, 'Globus' is in the center, A. karataviense and the cultivar 'Ivory Queen' in the foreground, and the seedheads of A. karataviense 'Red Globe' on the left, and bright purple A. jesdianum 'Purple King' behind. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_Globus_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_globe_types_2006.jpg Allium jesdianum 'Purple King' http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Allium_jesdianum_Purple_King.jpg Sometimes included in Allium, but rightly it's own genus, here's a few shots of Nectaroscordum siculum. Evidently in cultivation, most cultivated stock are hybrids between ssp. siculum and ssp. bulgaricum. I really enjoy the architectural drama of the inflorescence. Three views; a side view, a slightly underneath view look up, and a worm's-eye view. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Nectaroscordum_siculum_1.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Nectaroscordum_siculum_2.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Nectaroscordum_siculum_3.jpg Arisaema ======= Arisaema heterophyllum sprouted like clockwork, always on the 1st week of June. Within 3 weeks, it'll reach 6' in height.... amazing. Ariasema ringens produced it's green fist-like flower again, but this year facing the other way (there was discussion in the past, about the flowers of Arisaema having some directional orientation with the tuber). The two 3-part leaves are massive and glossy. A. kishidae, in a beautiful variegated form, did not appear this year, after blooming nicely the last 5-6 years. A friend gave me a replacement, named A. kishidae 'Jack Frost'. Arisaema tashiroi is so cute... tall and slender, with relatively small green, white-striped, open-lidded blooms that site just above the foliage. It grows about 2-1/2' tall (75 cm). The slender stems are marked like snakeskin; whitish marbled with olive green, and a tawny brown basal sheath, also marbled. Images of both flower and stem. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Arisaema_tashiroi_2006a.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Arisaema_tashiroi_stems.jpg Arisaema triphyllum is well know by all, but this plant is incredibly variable. What's also interesting is their built-in emergence clock.... early in some forms, very late in others. I have one that just sprouted last week, whereas most forms are now done flowering. Here's a selection I made that has glaucous purple stems and dark flowers. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Arisaema_triphyllum_purple_stem.jpg Iris === Iris gracilipes var. alba "Buko Form" is a miniature version of the species, evidently collected on Buko San (mountain) in Japan. It grows 4-5" tall, with a profusion of tiny white just 3/4" across. In the spring when the leaves first emerge, it looks like a hedge-hog. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Iris_gracilipes_Buko_form.jpg Iris henryi (again). I have already posted photos of this little treasure, but it surprised me a couple days after the flush of 19 blooms appeared, that there it was again, with a 2nd flush of 19 new flowers. I checked Darrell Probst's catalog, and sure enough he states there are two buds per stem. In spite of the rain, the seed pods are swelling and feel firm (see photo). http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Iris_henryi_seed_capsules.jpg Miscellaneous ========== Roscoea cautleyoides has 5 flowering stems, with 3-4 pretty pale yellows flowers on each 16-18" stem. I've had it for 3 years. I tried taking a good photo, but it's so hard to capture the detail in the pale yellow flowers, I've yet to get a satisfactory image worth posting. The plant is too stiff growing for my tastes, although might look good if the lower half of the stems were concealed with foliage from companion plants. Corydalis flexuosa 'Blue Panda' - this is one of many named cultivars of flexuosa, but I find that this one actually returns each year and flowers well. The sky blue flowers are gorgeous, and the scent is heavenly. http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/2006/Corydalis_flexuosa_Blue_Panda_2006b.jpg Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com < From piabinha@yahoo.com Tue Jun 6 12:35:12 2006 Message-Id: <20060606163508.15821.qmail@web51907.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: Alstroemeria Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 09:35:08 -0700 (PDT) hi lynn, --- VICTOR MAKELA wrote: > I grow A. pelegrina - which I keep somewhat dry in > summer and A. hookeri - which I keep very dry in > summer. And a commercial hybrid I got in Home Depot. > The hybrid and pelegrina do very well. A. hookeri > blooms but the plant is lanky and the flower is > small and pale pink. What other species of > Alstroemeria are sub-tropical? > Lynn Makela > Tampa, FL > Hot and dry - where is the rain? the ones i saw in southern brazil were psittacina and plantaginea, if i recall correctly. ========= tsuh yang __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From JFlintoff@aol.com Tue Jun 6 15:52:27 2006 Message-Id: <8C857B9DD54C7B7-1E50-229F@FWM-R08.sysops.aol.com> From: jflintoff@aol.com Subject: Camassia (was On trilliums and more) Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2006 15:52:23 -0400 There is a camas that has been in the trade for many years ( though I haven't seen in it several years ) that is sold as C.quamash ' San Juan Form ' . It is a very desirable garden plant. Substantial dark blue flowers on a very short stem. Despite the name it is actually a dwarf form of C. leichtlinii var. suksdorfii. The epithet suksdorfii covers all the blue forms as opposed to the creamy white type plant of C leichtlinii var. leichtlinii that only grows around the Roseburg, Oregon area. C leichtlinii var. suksdorfii occasionally has white forms that are distinct from the creamy type, though in my experience not such valuable garden plants as the type. Another camas that is a favorite here is the eastern C scilloides that flowers dependably but increases only slowly by offsets. Its light blue flowers are always welcome in May. Unlike Jane, I admire C. cusickii very much and always await its long racemes of light blue florets with keen anticipation. The very rare southern Oregon C howellii with its medium dark flowers grows here but with no abandon. Jerry John Flintoff Vashon Island,Washington,USA Zone 8 ________________________________________________________________________ Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Jun 6 16:46:27 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Camassia Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 15:29:54 -0500 > Another camas that is a favorite here is the eastern C >scilloides that flowers dependably but increases only slowly by >offsets. Its light blue flowers are always welcome in May. Unlike >Jane, I admire C. cusickii very much and always await its long >racemes of light blue florets with keen anticipation. > Dear all' Jerry F mention this species common to a farm I own about 100 miles south of home in E Kansas. Unlike leichtlinii which is one of favorites, C. scilloides is a washed out dullard. It is extremely abundant on dry rocky prairie hillsides, even the gravel driveway unlike the moisture loving C. leictlinii. I find the color too pale to get excited about pale blue fading to grey. I took a look to confirm this name and was surprised to find that a second Camassia should also be found on the farm - C. angusta which blooms later with more flowers of a richer blue-purple color in a similar habitat. I don't know that i have ever seen it though. Maybe I just dismiss the dull C. scilloides and failed to even notice! Jane your C. 'Puget Blue' sounds great. Will you offer bulbs this summer? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From vicm527@verizon.net Tue Jun 6 16:36:31 2006 Message-Id: <000601c689a8$e3359b10$97b76347@viclynn> From: "VICTOR MAKELA" Subject: Rainlilies Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2006 16:36:25 -0400 Hi all, The rainlilies are blooming even though we have had no rain for weeks and weeks. Zephyranthes primulina has been putting on a lovely display since April. Z. reginae and Z. simpsonii are trying to catch up. Habranthus robustus is just starting to bloom. I have a plant, grown from seed, that came to me labeled Habranthus biflora. I cannot find that name listed anywhere. The plant looks like robustus and has an inflorescence with 2 flowers. Does anyone know if that name is valid or do I just have a variation of robustus? Thanks, Lynn Makela Tampa, FL From c-mueller@tamu.edu Tue Jun 6 17:25:42 2006 Message-Id: <4485AC710200008A0000239D@ag.tamu.edu> From: "Cynthia Mueller" Subject: Rainlilies Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2006 16:25:21 -0500 Dear PBS members: Lynn Makela said: " I have a plant, grown from seed, that came to me labeled Habranthus biflora. I cannot find that name listed anywhere. The plant looks like robustus and has an inflorescence with 2 flowers. Does anyone know if that name is valid or do I just have a variation of robustus?" Lynn: Every so often I've seen this plant described in the trade and on e-Bay. Hope you send some seed in to the Seed Exchange! -Cynthia Mueller From JFlintoff@aol.com Tue Jun 6 18:57:52 2006 Message-Id: <8C857D3C47F5536-1648-1B0E@FWM-M02.sysops.aol.com> From: jflintoff@aol.com Subject: Camassia Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2006 18:57:49 -0400 JIM I certainly wouldn't call the blue of Camassia scilloides in my garden " washed out" . Maybe I received a better form from a wildflower dealer in the Ozarks than what grows wild in your area. Jerry John Flintoff Vashon Island,Washington,USA Zone 8 ________________________________________________________________________ Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free. From putman@pobox.upenn.edu Wed Jun 7 09:09:34 2006 Message-Id: <4486D009.5000105@pobox.upenn.edu> From: putman Subject: Hippeastrum evansiae Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 09:09:29 -0400 I have a few bulbs of H. evansiae for trade or sale. Contact me privately. putman@pobox.upenn.edu Steve Putman From tony@plantdelights.com Wed Jun 7 10:00:27 2006 Message-Id: <4486DBF8.70209@plantdelights.com> From: Tony Avent Subject: Hippeastrum evansiae Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 10:00:24 -0400 Steve: Do you grow the clone of Hippeastrum evansii that was distributed by the Louisiana Society for Hort Research? I saw this when I was there several years ago and they shared a bulb. After only 1 year in the ground, it has spread over 1' away from the original bulb via offsets. It survived 17F in the ground (very mild for us) this winter with no problem. The soft yellow flowers are absolutely stunning. I think this will be a wonderful landscape bulb in areas where it is winter hardy. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent putman wrote: >I have a few bulbs of H. evansiae for trade or sale. Contact me privately. > >putman@pobox.upenn.edu > >Steve Putman >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Wed Jun 7 13:57:21 2006 Message-Id: <20060607175720.25832.qmail@web33907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: Hippeastrum evansiae Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 10:57:20 -0700 (PDT) Hi Steve: I am interested if some are still available. James Frelichowski putman wrote: I have a few bulbs of H. evansiae for trade or sale. Contact me privately. putman@pobox.upenn.edu Steve Putman _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From putman@pobox.upenn.edu Wed Jun 7 14:02:59 2006 Message-Id: <448714CF.9000707@pobox.upenn.edu> From: putman Subject: Hippeastrum evansiae Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 14:02:55 -0400 Hi James, Still some left. What's come along well enough to trade after your move? Steve James Frelichowski wrote: >Hi Steve: > I am interested if some are still available. > James Frelichowski > >putman wrote: > I have a few bulbs of H. evansiae for trade or sale. Contact me privately. > >putman@pobox.upenn.edu > >Steve Putman >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > __________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around >http://mail.yahoo.com >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > From maxwithers@gmail.com Wed Jun 7 15:13:03 2006 Message-Id: <44872534.6020907@gmail.com> From: Max Withers Subject: West coast peonies Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 12:12:52 -0700 I have just now finished reading the extensive Paeonia archives from 2004. There are two questions that might profitably be revisited, and which are relevant to Western Australia as well (though not so much for the cut flowers). 1. Is anyone growing Tree Peonies in the (relatively) frost-free climes of the west, and if so, which cultivars are doing well? Presumably they are P. suffruticosa cvs.? 2. Mediterrannean species peonies. James Waddick originally mentioned: P. broter[o]i* P. clusii P. coriacea* P. corsica* [as P. cambessedesii] P. mascula* P. parnassica P. rhodia and some geographic forms of P. officinalis, P. per[e]grina and P. daurica* A. The asterisked species are offered by Pacific Rim Nursery (http://www.hillkeep.ca/ts%20paeonia.htm). Are there other sources? B. Who is growing these, and how are they doing? Also, a new question: I have seen chill requirements expressed as hours below 45 degrees (F), and hours below 40 degrees. Which is it? The answer is crucial, at least in zone 17. Max Withers Oakland Where a local "Master Gardener" told me I should grow Pelargoniums instead of Peonies. From jimmckenney@starpower.net Wed Jun 7 16:27:51 2006 Message-Id: <000d01c68a70$d8f912d0$8f022c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: West coast peonies Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 16:27:49 -0400 Max Withers wrote "Where a local "Master Gardener" told me I should grow Pelargoniums instead of Peonies." Max, I had to laugh when I read that. Long before anyone had dreamed up the "master gardener" idea to take the load off the county agents, I visited my then local county agent for some advice. I was having trouble with fusarium killing my larkspurs. When I asked him for suggestions, he told me to grow marigolds instead. And he evidently thought that was an eminently professional and appropriate answer. I left grumbling about the waste of taxpayer money. Jim McKenney From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Wed Jun 7 16:49:11 2006 Message-Id: <4da4cf37028064c714d59d878ccc18a5@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: West coast peonies Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 13:49:00 -0700 On Jun 7, 2006, at 12:12 PM, Max Withers wrote: > Also, a new question: I have seen chill requirements expressed as hours > below 45 degrees (F), and hours below 40 degrees. Which is it? The > answer is crucial, at least in zone 17. > > There are many different theories on chilling hours even besides the two cutoff temperatures you mention (and some add negative chill for hours above 65 deg. or 70 deg., or a 50% deduction per hour above some upper cutoff). Regardless of whatever theory you ascribe to, you guys up there in (Sunset) Zone 17, and similar, have plenty. I believe that zone is the only place in the entire U.S. where you can successfully fruit both cherries and oranges every year--cherries requiring a lot of chill hours (at least 900 and more typically 1000 or more each winter) while simultaneously never dropping below about 25 deg. where you would lose the oranges. The Calif. Central Valley also gets a high number of chill hours, but only in very protected areas do they not risk losing their orange crop frequently. It's much more marginal for them for oranges and even more so for lemons than for you guys. Everywhere else in the U.S. that gets 1000 hours of chill per winter is in USDA Zone 7 or lower (except for some Zone 8 areas in the Pacific Northwest--but they can't grow or fruit oranges up there). From john@floralarchitecture.com Wed Jun 7 17:06:00 2006 Message-Id: <20060607210559.86437.qmail@web36214.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: Peony trimming Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 14:05:59 -0700 (PDT) Can I prune a few rows of leaves from the tops of each peony stem to keep the plant in bounds? Or will this effect the overall health of the plant? John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Wed Jun 7 17:09:20 2006 Message-Id: <99c14e76a284794bec3cd7675b1cda09@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: West coast peonies Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 14:09:17 -0700 On Jun 7, 2006, at 1:27 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Max Withers wrote "Where a local "Master Gardener" told me I should > grow > Pelargoniums instead of Peonies." > > Max, I had to laugh when I read that. Long before anyone had dreamed > up the > "master gardener" idea to take the load off the county agents, I > visited my > then local county agent for some advice. I was having trouble with > fusarium > killing my larkspurs. When I asked him for suggestions, he told me to > grow > marigolds instead. And he evidently thought that was an eminently > professional and appropriate answer. > > I left grumbling about the waste of taxpayer money. > > Jim McKenney > You and me, too. Boy, do I have plenty of stories about the county agricultural extension agents in Austin, Texas growing up when I was a teenager and first started branching out into interesting, unusual, and rare things to grow around my parents' house. I can't tell you how many things they told me to forget about and stick to only those relatively few things that had been grown in that area for the past 100 years or so since those were the only things that would grow there. Many of the things (mostly fruit trees at that time) they told me couldn't be grown are now fairly large mature trees or bushes around my parents' house. And they most likely didn't know about Thad Howard or Scott Ogden, who lived close by, so they could only recommend pre-chilling in the fridge for 6 weeks of Hyacinths and Tulips as the way to have some pretty flowering bulbs in the garden. Maybe they've broadened their recommendations more lately. But I still think someone like Cynthia Mueller *grows* more than twice as many species, also near that area, than they even know about. But I think I may be a little biased... --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a From jshaw@opuntiads.com Wed Jun 7 18:34:55 2006 Message-Id: <001c01c68a82$9b9b0fd0$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Blue Iris needs ID Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 17:34:55 -0500 Hi Gang, Please let me know the identity of a wildflower I saw in New Mexico. I was in New Mexico recently and found some lovely iris plants (native I guess) near Las Vegas. The area is quite a desert, but on the road out of town (Hwy 104, to the east of town) I found a lot of irises growing. They were really pretty, pale-blue to white-blue. They grew in clumps and when I dug down I could see they were bulb-type irises. They grew alongside the road where water would collect from rains and snow melt. I didn't see them anywhere else in New Mexico. They were in full bloom on May 23, 2006. The elevation is about 6,500-7,000 ft (about 2,050 meters). I just buried the bulbs and left but but I'll bet there will be lots of seeds soon, as you leave Las Vegas; the bulbs were in patches here and there for the first 3 miles after you leave the buildings behind. Sometimes they were quite numerous, other times clumps were separated by 100 ft. or more. They were on both sides of the road, but most numerous on the north side. Cordially, Joe www.opuntiads.com Hot and not too humid in Houston today, about 93 F, no rain for about a week. From gardenersview@earthlink.net Wed Jun 7 19:03:24 2006 Message-Id: From: "sekkei" Subject: "master gardeners" Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 16:03:23 -0700 I have always had a little problem with the master gardener program. I went through the program many years ago, University of Illinois Ag. Extension service. The term 'master' bothers me, most trades have several levels to achieve before reaching the master status,(e.g. apprentice, journeyman, etc.). There are many good programs out there but where they should be cautious is handing out advice. Many home gardeners look to this program to solve problems and sometimes get bad to almost inert advice. I had a friend relate a story about some advice he received. He was advised to go to Home Depot and get the bottle with the blue label to control whiteflies on his peach tree. That was it "look for the blue bottle". Huh? Please understand I'm not denigrating the whole program it probably just needs careful managing in certain areas. Sorry had to vent. Terence Hernstrom Director, Gardens & Grounds Kimberly Crest House and Gardens Redlands CA Where spring bulbs are browning and summer bulbs are emerging or showing buds, in summer like weather! From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Wed Jun 7 19:07:40 2006 Message-Id: <71d284a2e4fc09537f7c926fb8190940@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: First Timber Press, now Heronswood Nursery Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 16:07:38 -0700 I'm as big a fan of capitalism as anyone else, but when I read what happened to Timber Press (even though we've been promised that things will continue as before--this is the same promise we were made about Heronswood Nursery 6 years ago), and now this, I don't much like what it sometimes does to things that were functioning perfectly well as they were. In fact, it irks me a lot. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a ==================================================== SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/local/272206_heronswood31.html World-famous Heronswood Nursery closes Owners plan to relocate it, but new site may be online only Wednesday, May 31, 2006 By GORDY HOLT P-I REPORTER It was barely 2 o'clock Tuesday and the news had yet to sink in, but Dan Hinkley was already on his second beer. Heronswood, the world-renowned Kingston plant nursery founded by Hinkley, and a place treasured across the Northwest and around the world for its collection of exotic plants, had just been closed by the Philadelphia-based Burpee seed company.   The famed Heronswood Nursery is home to a number of exotic plants. These Helleborus are from the Baltic states. After hearing of the closure, Hinkley was not without words although he was, he said, "still in shock." "Yeah, obviously, it's very sad for me," he said. "They didn't even afford me the opportunity to see the news release." The organization had bought Heronswood Nursery from Hinkley, a world-class plant hunter, and his partner, Robert Jones, six years ago with a promise to keep things as they were, with Hinkley still hunting down rare plants for the nursery's collection while Jones ran the business end. Well, things change, said George Ball, president of the W. Atlee Burpee & Co., the nation's oldest and arguably most successful home-gardening company. "But we're not closing it, we're just moving it," he said. Turns out the move may be to online only. Hans Miller, Burpee's vice president, said Tuesday that the company has no immediate plan to open a Heronswood nursery in Pennsylvania, where the company has a 50-acre nursery at Willow Hill and a similar-size test and display garden at Fordhook Farm in Doylestown. Burpee will test the market for a Heronswood facility at an event dubbed the Heronswood Hydrangea Open at Fordhook Farm, July 14-15. If it doesn't test well, Miller said, "Heronswood will just be a Web mail-order site." As Ball spoke into the business end of his cell phone from Kingston on Tuesday, the Burpee president said he was helping with the packing. "When we purchased this six years ago," he said, "we were anxious to make it a profitable company that would be fulfilling our ambition to serve a national audience of gardeners, which is predominantly on the East Coast. For six years we worked away at it. But finally we decided the best thing would be that we relocate." Among Hinkley's associates hard hit by Tuesday's news was Sarah Reichard, a specialist in the biology of invasive organisms at the UW's College of Forest Resources. "This is not a good thing for Heronswood," she said. "I'm a major customer, but I guess I won't be anymore." In recent years Hinkley leaned heavily on Reichard to determine which of the plant species he had been gathering might threaten the Northwest's native species. "He has been very responsible," she said. "Going through his catalog -- what, now, seven or eight years? -- I've identified 15 or so species I was concerned about, and he took them out of his collection and marked another 200 as potentially a problem. At no time was there any pushback. He simply said, 'It's up to you, if that's what you think.' " Hinkley said he won't be wanting for things to do, even though his contract with Burpee included a five-year non-compete clause that will keep him from creating another nursery during that period. His lecture schedule and two more books will fill the bill for a while. Less is known about the future of Heronswood's famed display gardens. Burpee's president was circumspect. "Oh," he said, "we're not digging things up to ship back East. No. I'm hoping to keep this as long as we can, hoping to find ... let's say ... someone who wants to buy one of the few first-class private botanic gardens certainly in America if not the world. "But I haven't figured all that out yet." Heronswood was founded on little more than a leaf and a prayer in 1987 while Hinkley taught horticulture classes at Edmonds Community College, and Jones, a University of Washington-trained architect, kept his pencils sharp at a Seattle architecture firm. In dribs and drabs, one species at a time, the nursery's catalog was built and its display garden took shape. Then, almost before either knew it, their knowledge and expertise earned them recognition throughout the plant world. The photoless catalogs Hinkley produced annually had become collector's items. And through essays, books and his Heronswood Web site, Hinkley has kept the public abreast of his Indiana Jones-like hunt for fine but little-known plants. China, Nepal and South Africa are just some of the places Hinkley and his trowel traveled after he graduated with a master's degree from the University of Washington's Center for Urban Horticulture. From China, for example, came this communique: Truly, there is no excuse. I should have been more mentally prepared for what they meant. "Road Bad," we were told. "Road Bad" embraces a great deal of plasticity across this planet. I knew this. "Road Bad" in China translates to 180 miles of barely passable terrain, all of which is under construction, though no one seems to be working on it. Then add three days of torrential rains." Did he get his plant? He goes on: Our minds drifted from the moment, fast-forwarding to the most aggravating part of the process. Phytosanitary certificates, inspections, lost packages, changed rules at the USDA. Our bellies hurt down deep with anxiety. We know these hurdles possess the potential to mar the polish of the days we have experienced in Sichuan. Yet, this time at least, the buff and shine of this most incredible journey has remained intact. The seeds are now safely to Heronswood and sown. But now there is no longer a Heronswood where they can set roots and produce offspring for the rest of the world to enjoy. LOCAL REACTION The reaction to the closure Tuesday of Kingston's world-famous Heronswood Nursery: Sarah Reichard, UW professor and invasive-plant specialist: "Dan Hinkley is a hero in American horticulture. He's made an enormous contribution. I've seen the impact. So this is a shocking way to treat a hero." Marty Wingate, P-I garden writer: "Dan Hinkley expanded the number of plants available to gardeners. This has been our showcase nursery for new and unusual plants, plants few had seen before Dan introduced them." Duane Kelly, founder and owner, Northwest Flower & Garden Show: "It's hard to see their business logic." Ciscoe Morris, P-I garden columnist: "It's a bummer." Jens Molbak, CEO of Molbak's garden center in Woodinville: "We feel sick." P-I reporter Gordy Holt can be reached at 206-448-8356 or gordyholt@seattlepi.com. © 1998-2006 Seattle Post-Intelligencer ========================================== Here's what Scott Kunst of Old House Gardens has to say about this: "On May 24, Bob Conklin of Timber Press announced that he had sold his company to Workman Publishing. Over the past three decades, Bob and Timber Press have earned the gratitude of gardeners across the country by publishing a wonderfully wide array of books that are beautiful, useful, and above all expert. Although Workman owns Storey Books and is a fine publisher in its own right, it’s hard to imagine anyone else filling the colossal garden boots Timber Press has left behind... Almost as jarring was the news that Burpee and Co. which bought the renowned Heronswood Nursery outside Seattle in 2000 has decided to close the nursery there, sell the property, and somehow consolidate Heronswood into its operations in Pennsylvania. Founded by Dan Hinkley and Robert Jones 20 years ago, Heronswood became an internationally celebrated source for new, rare, and extraordinary plants and helped to inspire American gardening to new heights. As mail-order plantspeople ourselves, we’ve long admired Heronswood as a model of excellence, creativity, and passion." And here's what Tony Avent had to say about the Heronswood Nursery closing: From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Jun 7 23:38:50 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Peonies Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 19:24:20 -0500 Dear all; I hate to be a spoil sport, but there is a very active and knowledgeable group devoted to peonies at peony@yahoogroups.com. I think most of this peony info is better served off of a bulb list. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From totototo@telus.net Wed Jun 7 21:46:14 2006 Message-Id: <20060608014613.B70ARF9LW3@priv-edmwaa06.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Camassia Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 18:47:08 -0700 On 6 Jun 06, at 15:29, James Waddick wrote: > ...the moisture loving C. leictlinii [sic] I wouldn't call C. leichtlinii "moisture loving", at least not if the imputation is that it's a nearly a bog plant. The violet-blue subspecies suksdorfii is quite common here, and the territory it likes is bone dry in the summer. Winter seeps, yes, but in summer dry, drier, driest. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed Jun 7 22:02:59 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060607190134.00c47640@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Blue Iris needs ID Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 19:03:33 -0700 I may be quite wrong about this, but I think the only iris native to the area mentioned is Iris missouriensis, which comes in various shades of blue-lavender. The habitat Joe described is typical of this widespread species of the intermountain West. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA Joe wrote: >I was in New Mexico recently and found some lovely iris plants (native I >guess) near Las Vegas. The area is quite a desert, but on the road out of >town (Hwy 104, to the east of town) I found a lot of irises growing. They >were really pretty, pale-blue to white-blue. > >They grew in clumps and when I dug down I could see they were bulb-type >irises. They grew alongside the road where water would collect from rains >and snow melt. I didn't see them anywhere else in New Mexico. From samarak@gizmoworks.com Wed Jun 7 23:17:48 2006 Message-Id: From: Steve Marak Subject: Blue Iris needs ID Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 22:17:37 -0500 (CDT) Joe, I expected you'd get lots of answers on this one. We've seen vast numbers of Iris missouriensis while traveling in New Mexico (and Colorado, etc.), including the Las Vegas area. If I recall, when we checked the flora, that was the only (native) iris. Seed was usually plentiful, and we've collected it, and sent it to seed exchanges, several times, but were never able to germinate more than the odd one ourselves. Clearly we didn't provide the right conditions. Steve On Wed, 7 Jun 2006, Joe Shaw wrote: > I was in New Mexico recently and found some lovely iris plants (native I > guess) near Las Vegas. The area is quite a desert, but on the road out of > town (Hwy 104, to the east of town) I found a lot of irises growing. They > were really pretty, pale-blue to white-blue. > > They grew in clumps and when I dug down I could see they were bulb-type > irises. They grew alongside the road where water would collect from rains > and snow melt. I didn't see them anywhere else in New Mexico. -- Steve Marak -- samarak@gizmoworks.com From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Jun 7 23:45:01 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Blue Iris needs ID Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 22:44:46 -0500 Dear Joe ; More than likely I. missouriensis - widespread distribution and locally very abundant. Contrary to the name's expectations it DOES NOT grow in Missouri and I can barely keep it alive for even a year. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From msittner@mcn.org Thu Jun 8 01:28:02 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060607211556.031d8e28@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Calochortus Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 22:27:46 -0700 Although many of the dry climate Calochortus that I grow did not fare very well this year with our continual abundant rainfall, I've been having some really nice blooms of some of the others. Many of the ones I grow are probably really Mariposa hybrids grown from open pollinated seed. Calochortus flowers are so amazing that you just want to photograph them over and over. I can see that some species are very well represented on our wiki Calochortus page. And I just added a few more of Calochortus tolmiei that I took in the last week or so even though we already have some gorgeous pictures of this species. On our flower trip this spring we saw Calochortus monophyllus in Butte county blooming along side the road. We stopped to photograph an Iris and this was a bonus. It was different than the one I flowered in cultivation (and may have lost) as it has red spots. It is wonderfully hairy. I've added pictures of it taken in the wild. Finally blooming from seed for the first time for me this year is Calochortus syntrophus, a species discovered by Frank Callahan in 1993 in Shasta County. It is similar to C. superbus, but very different too and growing in that county in a different habitat. The Robinetts collected a few seeds to share with members of the Calochortus Society in a year where they were a lot of flowers and mine have bloomed. I was reading about it in an old issue of Mariposa and see that it grows in an area of high rainfall so that's probably why I haven't lost it. I had two bloom this year. The flower of one was about a quarter the size of the other. It will be interesting to see if it returns if this holds true in later years as the difference in size of the flowers was so dramatic. I've added pictures of it too (one of them was being pollinated at the time.) http://www.pacificbulbsociety.com/pbswiki/index.php/Calochortus Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From msittner@mcn.org Thu Jun 8 02:16:06 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060607231434.03382f60@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Calochortus link mistake Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 23:15:32 -0700 Oops, too late in the evening. Usually I check my links. I meant: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Calochortus From TalkingPoints@PlantSoup.Com Thu Jun 8 02:31:14 2006 Message-Id: From: N Sterman Subject: Glad flower sequence? Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 23:31:06 -0700 Am I correct in thinking that species gladiolus flowers open from lowest to highest on the stalk? How long do you think that individual flowers stay open for? A day, two days? Depends on the species? Nan Nan Sterman Plant Soup, Inc. TM TalkingPoints@PlantSoup.Com PO Box 231034 Encinitas, CA 92023 From khixson@nu-world.com Thu Jun 8 03:18:22 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20060608001138.02b8bc70@mail.nu-world.com> From: Kenneth Hixson Subject: Blue Iris needs ID Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 00:18:08 -0700 Dear Members: Joe wrote: >They grew in clumps and when I dug down I could see they were bulb-type >irises. They grew alongside the road where water would collect from rains >and snow melt. Please excuse my ignorance. I've never grown Iris missouriensis, but every reference I've seen describes it as rhizomateous, one even going to the extent of saying "extensively rhizomateous". Does Iris missouriensis in fact have a bulbous form? The habitat description fits I. missouriensis, but if it isn't a bulb, this must be some other plant--maybe Iris family, but not I. missouriensis. Ken From barryandjac@bigpond.com Thu Jun 8 04:35:28 2006 Message-Id: <001701c68ad6$7956bd80$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Glad flower sequence? Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 16:35:18 +0800 Hi Nan, My species Gladiolus open from lowest to highest and each flower seems to last at least a few days even in warm weather. Some have lasted well over a few weeks. Jacinda Western Australia ________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From jimmckenney@starpower.net Thu Jun 8 08:23:33 2006 Message-Id: <000a01c68af6$5ba05560$92002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Peonies Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 08:23:31 -0400 Jim Waddick wrote: "there is a very active and knowledgeable group devoted to peonies at peony@yahoogroups.com." Isn't peony@yahoogroups.com an email address? Does one submit questions via email to this group? Surely there is a better way? Jim McKenney From IntarsiaCo@aol.com Thu Jun 8 08:59:01 2006 Message-Id: <313.61c0711.31b97912@aol.com> From: IntarsiaCo@aol.com Subject: First Timber Press, now Heronswood Nursery Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 08:58:58 EDT In a message dated 6/7/2006 7:08:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wpoulsen@pacbell.net writes: --this is the same promise we were made about Heronswood Nursery 6 years ago), and now this, I don't much like what it sometimes does to things that were functioning perfectly well as they were. In fact, it irks me a lot. Today's column by Anne Raver in the NY TImes sheds a bit more light on the Heronswood saga. Among the quotes cited in the column: Dan Hinkley said: he and Mr Jones spent "six years waiting for the crash you know is coming." Apparently it was evident less than 6 months after the Burpee purchase that it would not work out. George Ball said: "It wasn't profitable a profitable business when we bought it" Business was so bad, Mr. Ball said, he asked the former owners to buy Heronswood back for $2,000,000. "They took a day to think about it, and said no." Burpee bought the business for $4,500,000. The most striking quote, and I admire Mr. Hinkley for being forthright and blaming himself for being naive: " Mea culpa," he said "This entire set of circumstances comes down to me, and my decision was wrong." Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. PO Box 142 Gaylordsville, CT 06755 From jshields@indy.net Thu Jun 8 09:12:31 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060608090523.026b9a60@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Blue Iris needs ID Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 09:12:46 -0400 Hi all, I have tried Iris missouriensis here from seed. As noted by Steve, I too got poor germination of the seed, but a few did grow. I have two clones now, and one has bloomed the past two springs. I am growing it outdoors in the ground in raised beds of sand/topsoil/leaf compost, in full sun. It gets no irrigation, only natural rainfall. I hope eventually to get seeds from these two plants. It would be nice to have a somewhat more vigorous strain for this part of the Midwest. Iris versicolor, easy from seed, is a more northern species that does very well here. I. virginiensis, supposedly native to Indiana, is not so vigorous in my garden; but I have it in light shade. I. fulva lasted a few years and bloomed nicely, but dwindled gradually away. Best wishes, Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 10:44 PM 6/7/2006 -0500, Jim W. wrote: >Dear Joe ; > More than likely I. missouriensis - widespread distribution >and locally very abundant. > > Contrary to the name's expectations it DOES NOT grow in >Missouri and I can barely keep it alive for even a year. ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From maxwithers@gmail.com Thu Jun 8 14:58:08 2006 Message-Id: <4488733C.5040305@gmail.com> From: Max Withers Subject: peonies and Master Gardeners Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 11:58:04 -0700 How silly of me to post a followup to your extensive peony discussion from less than two years ago! Just kidding: you are right, of course, and I will eventually re-post to the peony group. I thought it odd that you all were discussing peonies here myself. In semi-defense of my Master Gardeners, I should point out that it is not bad advice to casual gardeners to focus on plants that are locally both happy and easy. She had no way of assessing how crazy/obsessive/committed I was. On the other hand, does anyone think the MGs would have come up such a clear and useful answer on chill hours as Lee Poulsen? Max Oakland Where oranges and cherries every year might be pushing it. > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 19:24:20 -0500 > From: James Waddick > Subject: [pbs] Peonies > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" > > Dear all; > > I hate to be a spoil sport, but there is a very active and > knowledgeable group devoted to peonies at peony@yahoogroups.com. I > think most of this peony info is better served off of a bulb list. > > Jim W. > From Theladygardens@aol.com Thu Jun 8 15:53:40 2006 Message-Id: <4ba.c204d1.31b9da3b@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: peonies and Master Gardeners Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 15:53:31 EDT Well, here in Santa Clara County, we do have a record of chill hours and routinely give out that information. Now as to whether the master gardener answering the phone knows anything about the chill hours required of different peonies, that is a different matter. I doubt it. The chill hours are usually used to explain why certain healthy fruit trees aren't bearing fruit as we live in a climate that is best served by trees requiring less chill hours. Of course, the nurseries will sell you what you want. We recently had a 'Peony outing" where a small group was invited to a historical place tightly controlled as to whether any visitor was ever allowed on the property. (what a shame and I doubt if that is what the benefactor intended). There was a very large collection of Tree Peonies on the grounds. We were all asked to bring whatever knowledge of peonies we had, to share with the group. I claim to know next to nothing about peonies, my father grew lots of them in Kansas and I loved them, still do. To my amazement I knew more about Peonies than any of the other mg's in the group, and that wasn't much. I am a Master Gardener but in all honestly, I think what little knowledge I have I came into the program with. There are a few very knowledgeable people in there, and the rest. There are a lot of people who have book knowledge but little gardening knowledge and lately many recent retirees who have corporate knowledge and are turning it into a mess of reports and paperwork. They haven't mentally retired yet. One of my friends husband refers to the master gardeners as master hard workers. He is appalled at how much free labor they do. So yes, I agree, the better answer is on this forum. Carolyn Craft From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu Jun 8 16:50:26 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060608134830.00c40cb8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Blue Iris needs ID Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 13:51:00 -0700 Steve wrote about Iris missouriensis: Seed was usually plentiful, and we've collected it, and sent it to seed >exchanges, several times, but were never able to germinate more than the odd >one ourselves. Clearly we didn't provide the right conditions. This species is notoriously difficult to germinate. I've tried several times without success. I even tried a technique recommended by Gwen Kelaidis: you put the seeds inside a bag made out of an old nylon stocking and hang it inside the toilet tank (not the bowl!) below the water line. The theory is that the constantly changing water will wash out the germination inhibitors. After 2 weeks you plant the seeds. And then, in my experience, they sit there stubbornly for 4 years until you throw them out. However, the vast colonies of this iris growing in swales around the semi-arid West suggest that it does indeed seed readily in the wild. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu Jun 8 17:12:37 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060608135948.00c5a238@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: First Timber Press, now Heronswood Nursery Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 14:13:12 -0700 I don't think the Burpees/Heronswood situation is as much an occasion for mourning as some others appear to feel it is. (When the initial sale was made, incidentally, the joke going around was that after the merger, the new entity would be called Herpees Nursery.) It is true that Heronswood's display garden and upscale location made it a popular destination for plant-lovers, especially those with big budgets. However, the mail-order plants were not always sent in satisfactory condition, and some of them had devilish weeds included (thanks for the spurge). Moreover, the catalogs featured, in cringe-inducing prose, some excessive praise of mediocre garden subjects (no thanks for the Heptacodium) and seriously exaggerated hardiness ratings. By this time the more garden-worthy introductions from Heronswood have made it into other nurseries, where they can still be bought no matter whether Burpees kills them off. Just in my local area there are many such growers -- though admittedly, "just in my local area" happens to be the county with the most ornamental plant nurseries in the United States. I was just at Collectors Nursery, for instance, and was quite impressed not only by what was for sale but also by the many interesting plants in development, such as some remarkable Roscoea species and hybrids. Another remarkable list, with new introductions from Europe, is offered by Edelweiss Perennials of Canby, Oregon. Both these growers have websites and mail order. (Be sure you Google Edelweiss PERENNIALS, not Edelweiss Nursery, which is a bedding plant outfit in Minnesota, I think.) Even with Heronswood closed, it's still possible to make a productive plant pilgrimage through the Pacific Northwest, north to south, ending up at the California border with a pickup truck load of plants new to you. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA 08:58 AM 6/8/2006 -0400, you wrote: > > >In a message dated 6/7/2006 7:08:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, >wpoulsen@pacbell.net writes: > >--this is the same promise we were made about >Heronswood Nursery 6 years ago), and now this, I don't much like what >it sometimes does to things that were functioning perfectly well as >they were. In fact, it irks me a lot. > > >Today's column by Anne Raver in the NY TImes sheds a bit more light on the >Heronswood saga. Among the quotes cited in the column: > >Dan Hinkley said: he and Mr Jones spent "six years waiting for the crash you >know is coming." Apparently it was evident less than 6 months after the >Burpee purchase that it would not work out. > >George Ball said: "It wasn't profitable a profitable business when we bought >it" > >Business was so bad, Mr. Ball said, he asked the former owners to buy >Heronswood back for $2,000,000. "They took a day to think about it, and >said no." >Burpee bought the business for $4,500,000. > >The most striking quote, and I admire Mr. Hinkley for being forthright and >blaming himself for being naive: " Mea culpa," he said "This entire set of >circumstances comes down to me, and my decision was wrong." > >Mark Mazer >Intarsia Ltd. >PO Box 142 >Gaylordsville, CT 06755 > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From Antennaria@aol.com Thu Jun 8 18:06:51 2006 Message-Id: <365.575b44b.31b9f978@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Iris and Roscoea wiki updates Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 18:06:48 EDT Hello folks, I updated the PBS wiki pages with the following additions: 1. Replaced old (poor) photo of Iris henryi with two new ones taken this year. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/BeardlessIrises 2. Added a new photo taken today in the rain, of Iris gracilipes var. alba "Buko Form", perhaps one of the choicest Iris of all. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrestedIrises 3. Added 4 photos plus commentary on Roscoea cautleoides. My plants are light yellow and notoriously difficult to get good color rendition in a digital photo... the color always look white or washed out. I took a couple additional photos today in the pouring rain. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Roscoea Regarding Roscoea, I'm curious as to why I frequently see the species name spelled "cautleyoides", and wonder if it did have an alternate spelling at one point, or is it just a spelling corruption. Checking out the online Flora of China at... http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=2&taxon_id=128752 satisfies my curiousity whether this species is mixed up in cultivation or really as variable in the wild as cultivated plants might indicate. Certainly some nursery websites show a range of forms and flowering times that make one wonder if it's all one species. http://www.plantsforshade.co.uk/acatalog/Roscoea.html Sure enough, in the Flora of China, it's reported as growing 6-24" (15-60 cm) tall, flowering before or with the foliage, flowering anytime between May - August depending on the colony, with flowers that can be yellow, purple, white, or less commonly pink. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Thu Jun 8 22:05:29 2006 Message-Id: <4488D845.9B046632@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Timper Press & Herronswood. Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 19:09:09 -0700 Dear Members of PBS. There has been a lot of wailing and gnashing of teeth over the sale of Heronswood and Timber Press, and to what avail? Many good firms have disappeared, Oregon Bulb Farms, Brown Bulb Ranch, Davids and Royston, Holland Bulb Company, to mention just a few. All such were sold by the owners. Constant comments on recent sales of horticultural related firms, in my opinion, exasperate the situation and can be of little and no comfort to those involved in these firms. In fact just what purpose do they serve? Agreements for the sales were entered into for obvious profit, which is what makes the world go around. If written contracts/agreements were not honored, then let appropriate action be taken under the laws of the land, in my opinion it is not for PBS members to comment, and just what purpose do such serve? Are the comments made, implications that all owners hands of horticultural enterprises should be tied? Facts must be accepted as fact, if we agree or not. Is it correct to comment on actions of others? The right to free action, vis-a-vis selling an enterprise is substratum. I have confidence in the new owners of Timber Press. Remember Dick Abel sold the company and thus Timber Press advanced to what it is today, thanks to the sound foundation Dick put into place. As for Heronswood, Jane's comments point out that all was not perfect there. Well stated Jane and your comments open another side of the picture. Cheers, John E. Bryan From john@floralarchitecture.com Fri Jun 9 11:45:42 2006 Message-Id: <20060609154541.9386.qmail@web36202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 11 Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 08:45:41 -0700 (PDT) Terence, I have to agree with you somewhat. I had 2 master gardeners that came to the nursery with a gardening friend. They had an "aire" to them. They were going through pointing out "special" plants. While my nursery, as small as it is, does have unusual things, they were pointing out the most common items and getting them wrong. I had a fig (Brown Turkey) that they said was an aralia. Um, no. I was delighted after the 4th or 5th wrong plant to point out to the gardener what the items actually were. Then they asked about a "treasure" which was a plain silver (think Home Deopt) Echevaria. They had never seen such a plant before and they ended up buying it. I wanted to charge them $30 just to make them think they had something rare but I believe in karma and it would have come back to me. When talking to people who are master gardeners (and this applies only to those that I have met and had said they werre MG's), they really don't know much of anything. Those that I have met became MG for the title and ego boost they get by saying they are MG. I have not met one (that I am aware) that had a reasonable head on their sholders w/o an ego problem. The program, in essence, is a good one. Too bad it has strayed so far from it's initial concept. If and when I have questions, there are many great forums and people with knowledge that anyone can turn to. For those w/o internet, there are still many resources, local gardening clubs for starters. There is no reason for a person to go without proper information. County extension agents, well, it's the government. Do I need to say more? I would love to hear some of Lee's stories though. (Maybe when you com eover for a visit???) John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From maxwithers@gmail.com Fri Jun 9 12:35:07 2006 Message-Id: <4489A338.4030004@gmail.com> From: Max Withers Subject: peonies and Master Gardeners Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2006 09:35:04 -0700 By the way, Californians needn't trouble their master gardeners for chill hours: they're all online here: http://fruitsandnuts.ucdavis.edu/chillcalc/index1.htm > Well, here in Santa Clara County, we do have a record of chill hours and > routinely give out that information. Now as to whether the master gardener > answering the phone knows anything about the chill hours required of different > peonies, that is a different matter. I doubt it. > The chill hours are usually used to explain why certain healthy fruit trees > aren't bearing fruit as we live in a climate that is best served by trees > requiring less chill hours. Of course, the nurseries will sell you what you > want. Max I should emphasize that I did not intend to mock the nice ladies who had volunteered their time to help me, and many others. The point was more that peonies and knowledge thereof are pretty rare around here. From irisman@ameritech.net Fri Jun 9 13:23:49 2006 Message-Id: <001001c68be9$405d8770$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 13 Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 12:22:14 -0500 John Ingram. I LIKE your comments. Adam in Glenview, IL ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 11:00 AM Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 13 > From paph2@earthlink.net Fri Jun 9 14:33:05 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.1.1.2.20060609113225.031ef790@mail.earthlink.net> From: Harold Koopowitz Subject: Fwd: The chimp and the penguin, etc. Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2006 11:32:59 -0700 I did not realize that was the goal? H >You don't find the idea of hitting penguins with a club funny? What are >you, sick and twisted? :-) > >I think it is just supposed to be a mildly entertaining game. > >____ > > >>I dont understand this. is it supposed to be funny? >>H >> >>At 07:14 AM 6/9/2006, you wrote: >>>>Click on the yeti, and then when you are ready to swing, click on him >>>>again. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>Ojo, es un vicio !!! >>>> >>>> >>>>Hay que hacer click en el chimpancé y después tratar que el >>>> >>>>chimpancé le pegue al pingüino, haciendo un segundo click. >>>> >>>>Te aclaro que es totalmente adictivo. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>><http://n.ethz.ch/student/mkos/pinguin.swf> > > > >-- >Bradford A. Hawkins >Dept. of Ecol. & Evol. Biol. >University of California >Irvine, CA 92697 >Tel (949) 824-5384 >FAX (949) 824-2181 At 10:22 AM 6/9/2006, Adam Fikso wrote: >John Ingram. I LIKE your comments. Adam in Glenview, IL > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 11:00 AM >Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 13 > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From dkramb@badbear.com Fri Jun 9 18:30:56 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060609182849.01f18c68@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Blue Iris needs ID Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2006 18:31:12 -0400 >Iris versicolor, easy from seed, is a more northern species that does very >well here. I. virginiensis, supposedly native to Indiana, is not so >vigorous in my garden; but I have it in light shade. I. fulva lasted a few >years and bloomed nicely, but dwindled gradually away. All of these will thrive and multiply vigorously if given plenty of moisture. I grow mine in a pond with the rhizomes just below the surface of the water (this prevents iris borer from damaging them). I have a spectrum of Iris fulva ranging from yellow to dark red, with just about every step inbetween. The big hit this spring was one nicknamed "butterscotch". It was delicious! :-) Dennis in Cincinnati From lizwat@earthlink.net Fri Jun 9 20:02:35 2006 Message-Id: <448A0C5A.7060008@earthlink.net> From: Liz Waterman Subject: peonies and Master Gardeners Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2006 17:03:38 -0700 In Woodside, about 30 mi south of SF, Filoli gardens grows or used to grow several different herbaceous peonies. I haven't been there in years but they still list them as flowering in May. I used grow a nice clump of them in Oakland until the Oak root fungus got them. They bloomed reliably every Mother's day without any ice treatments in Oakland CA. Liz W Max Withers wrote: >By the way, Californians needn't trouble their master gardeners for >chill hours: they're all online here: >http://fruitsandnuts.ucdavis.edu/chillcalc/index1.htm > > > >> >> > > > From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Fri Jun 9 20:10:40 2006 Message-Id: <13c1a2b5600ac4a48dad6b3b5189fc02@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Fwd: [IBSMEMBERS] Some sad news Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 17:10:37 -0700 Because I know some of you knew him both in person or from the old IBS list, I'm forwarding this news. I only interacted with him a little via email, but loved the decades of plant knowledge and stories he shared during those few years when he was actively involved on the list. I also purchased his book which I loved and I managed to get one of the cloned Vico Yellow Clivias that he originated, back when yellow Clivia were few and expensive and hard to get. I think he was a wonderful man. Mary Sue and others actually got to meet him. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a =========================================== > From: "Alan Meerow" > Date: June 9, 2006 1:43:22 PM PDT > > The bulb world is a lesser place this week.  From another IBS member I > received this news: >   > I am sorry to report that this morning (June 8) Sir Peter Smithers > died  peacefully at his home in Vico Morcote, Switzerland.  He was 92 > years old. > > Correspondence can always be sent to either Colonel (Ret) Denny Lane > (magaloff@aol.com), his step-son, or to his daughter Amelia > (asmithers@bluewin.com).  In both instances the address remains: In di > Pradon 19, CH-6921 Vico Morcote, Switzerland. >   > Alan > =========================================== > From: "Robert M. Turley" > Date: June 9, 2006 2:04:29 PM PDT > > Alan, this comes as no surprise as Sir Peter Smithers’ will to live > ended on January 3, 2006 of this year.  Truly, a great friend and > patron of horticulture has passed on.  Below is the last message I > received from him.  We from time to time sent each other salutations. > > __________________________________________________ > > From: Sir Peter Smithers [ps@vicogarden.com] > Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 8:21 AM > To: Robert M. Turley > Subject: Re: Bonne Annee - Happy New Year !!! > > At 20:58 02/01/2006, you wrote: > > > >  Happy New Year > > Wishing you & Lady Smithers the Best for the coming year !!! > >  > > Robert & Sandra > > The Turley Family > > Louisiana - USA > > > Dear Robert, > >         thank you for your kind message.   But Dojean died suddenly > last thursday after 62 years and six months of very happy marriage and > was cremated after a truly beautiful service in our beautiful parish > church, packed to the doors and with three rows of people standing at > the back.   In a very long and happy life this was the worst day of > all but a great triumph for Dojean who gave me such a precious gift. > > Peter > > : > > Sir Peter Smithers > In di Pradon 19 > CH-6921 Vico Morcote > ps@vicogarden.com From mmattus@charter.net Fri Jun 9 20:58:33 2006 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Fwd: [IBSMEMBERS] Some sad news Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2006 20:58:31 -0400 A personal note, Sir Peter Smithers' amazing contributions to culture, politics and plants has been a constant inspiration for me. His book, ADVENTURES OF A GARDENER sits on my desk at this very moment. It has continued to inspire me to try to master breeding Nerine sarniensis, (no luck yet) and to try to obtain many of the plants which he wrote about. He sent many of us on a fascinating journey of discovery which enriched many of our lives. I remember when I fist found his book at a used book store at Brown University, I had just returned from visiting Mr. Nakamura in Japan, seeing his collections of Vico Yellow and it's many offspring which many of us now share. I realized the connection that Mr. Smithers has mad throughout the plant world, and the people he had touched. Connections are an amazing thing. I had always wanted to meet him in person. Matt Mattus Worcester, Massachusetts Zone 5 Where I spent the rainy day in the greenhouse, repotting many of Vico Yellow and Vico Gold's offspring. On 6/9/06 8:10 PM, "Lee Poulsen" wrote: > Because I know some of you knew him both in person or from the old IBS > list, I'm forwarding this news. I only interacted with him a little via > email, but loved the decades of plant knowledge and stories he shared > during those few years when he was actively involved on the list. I > also purchased his book which I loved and I managed to get one of the > cloned Vico Yellow Clivias that he originated, back when yellow Clivia > were few and expensive and hard to get. I think he was a wonderful man. > Mary Sue and others actually got to meet him. > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a > =========================================== > >> From: "Alan Meerow" >> Date: June 9, 2006 1:43:22 PM PDT >> >> The bulb world is a lesser place this week.  From another IBS member I >> received this news: >>   >> I am sorry to report that this morning (June 8) Sir Peter Smithers >> died  peacefully at his home in Vico Morcote, Switzerland.  He was 92 >> years old. >> >> Correspondence can always be sent to either Colonel (Ret) Denny Lane >> (magaloff@aol.com), his step-son, or to his daughter Amelia >> (asmithers@bluewin.com).  In both instances the address remains: In di >> Pradon 19, CH-6921 Vico Morcote, Switzerland. >>   >> Alan >> > > =========================================== > >> From: "Robert M. Turley" >> Date: June 9, 2006 2:04:29 PM PDT >> >> Alan, this comes as no surprise as Sir Peter Smithers¹ will to live >> ended on January 3, 2006 of this year.  Truly, a great friend and >> patron of horticulture has passed on.  Below is the last message I >> received from him.  We from time to time sent each other salutations. >> >> __________________________________________________ >> >> From: Sir Peter Smithers [ps@vicogarden.com] >> Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 8:21 AM >> To: Robert M. Turley >> Subject: Re: Bonne Annee - Happy New Year !!! >> >> At 20:58 02/01/2006, you wrote: >>> >>>   Happy New Year >>> Wishing you & Lady Smithers the Best for the coming year !!! >>>   >>> Robert & Sandra >>> The Turley Family >>> Louisiana - USA >> >> >> Dear Robert, >> >>         thank you for your kind message.   But Dojean died suddenly >> last thursday after 62 years and six months of very happy marriage and >> was cremated after a truly beautiful service in our beautiful parish >> church, packed to the doors and with three rows of people standing at >> the back.   In a very long and happy life this was the worst day of >> all but a great triumph for Dojean who gave me such a precious gift. >> >> Peter >> >> : >> >> Sir Peter Smithers >> In di Pradon 19 >> CH-6921 Vico Morcote >> ps@vicogarden.com > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From msittner@mcn.org Fri Jun 9 23:17:07 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060609191252.03701e90@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Sir Peter Smithers Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2006 20:16:48 -0700 Thanks Lee for forwarding the message to those of us who are no longer IBS members but still have memories of Sir Peter Smithers. I was lucky enough to visit him twice in Switzerland. The first time I knew I was going to go to Switzerland (1997) I was trying to get courage to ask him if I could visit when he posted something to the IBS list about his fantasies of all the women on the list. I can't remember exactly what he said, something along the line that he pictured them as all young, beautiful, knowledgeable and experts in horticulture, botany, etc. That stopped me in my tracks for awhile, but eventually I did ask to come explaining I didn't fit his fantasies, but could my husband and I come anyway? He responded: "Hell No! An old gent my age thinks two live persons better than a fantasy, so you will both be very welcome. " And afterwards he wrote: "We much enjoyed your materialising out of the electronic mists." I will never forget the visit. First of all the luncheon we were given was one of the best meals we had on our trip including sorbet made out of passion fruit he grew. His wife was a gracious charming hostess and we found him a fascinating person with wonderful stories. We loved walking through his garden and pondering his philosophy of creating a garden that over time grew to be less work rather than more as it became a self sustaining ecosystem. We admired his ideas of creating a garden that would blend into his surroundings rather than call attention to its difference. And most of all we appreciated his philosophy of sharing what he had and knew with other gardeners and plant enthusiasts. He remembered as a young boy all the people who were kind enough to take the time to help him. So he was always willing to answer questions or to provide seed, cuttings or plants. We visited an entire arboretum built on a hillside that seemed to have acquired most of the collection from cuttings from his plants. He had the wealth to be able to travel to foreign lands to collect exotic special plants, but even after he no longer was doing that, others continued to go out of their way to obtain special specimens for him as their way of repaying his generosity to them. He loved telling about what people had brought him. He was so apologetic on our visit that he didn't have a plant to give me, but he did give me a signed copy of his book and some Lilium (Pink Trumpet) seeds. I read a chapter every night for the rest of my journey, savoring the stories. I just wish I could have taken more of the philosophy of working less instead of more to heart. Every year those Lilium return and get taller and remind me of him and our visit. Last year I gave seed to the BX so hopefully others in our group will have a Sir Peter momento too. The Clivia Vico Gold I got in a group order has yet to bloom for me. The Lilium that I grew myself has been much more satisfactory. On that first visit he produced his accession books. He had made a record in a ledger of every plant he had ever acquired by number and he was in the process of transferring all those records to an Access data base and wondering if he'd finish before he died. There is a lot about that 1997 trip that is now fuzzy in my memory, but my visit to Sir Peter and his wife shines brightly. We visited him again in 2000. He had slowed down a lot in the years in between and was no longer able to garden very much, but still able to walk through his garden once a day. It was very steep so he knew there would be a time that would no longer be possible. This time I brought friends along who were our travel companions. They weren't all into gardening and certainly not into bulbs, but each one was so appreciative of the experience of meeting him and his wife. It was very difficult for me to pry them away in time to catch the last bus to return to our hotel. We had to run all the way down the hill from his house, a very long way, to make it. They still talk about that visit from time to time and one friend who went back to Switzerland a couple of years ago went to a showing of some of his photographs. He had some amazing nerine and peony photographs he had taken on panels in his entry way and was an early pioneer of flower photography. Early on Sir Peter had planned for his special breeding and plants to go to a good home before he was no longer able to care for them. He told us his house was for sale in 1997 when we first visited, but I am glad to read he never had to leave the wonderful garden he created until the end. Knowing he is no longer alive makes me sad, but I remain grateful for having the opportunity to meet him and for the lessons I learned from him. Mary Sue From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Sat Jun 10 03:19:27 2006 Message-Id: <003601c68c5e$30e905b0$90758b90@angelaepdzuk5j> From: "angela offer" Subject: peonies and Master Gardeners Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2006 15:19:18 +0800 tHANKS TO EVERYONE ABOUT THEIR ADVICE (AND WEB CONTACTS) FOR PEONIES. HERE WE CAN GROW ORANGES, AND (JUST ABOUT) CHERRIES, THE SIMPLE ANALOGIES ARE WONDERFUL MANY THANKS FOR YOUR HELP ANGELA (WESTERN AUSTRALIA- SOUTH) ----- Original Message ----- From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Sat Jun 10 05:38:07 2006 Message-Id: <000a01c68c71$9582fae0$0200a8c0@2CVEVE1> From: "Brian Whyer" Subject: Sir Peter Smithers Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2006 10:38:09 +0100 For his very interesting obituary in the Daily Telegraph see below http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?view=DETAILS&grid=&xml=/news/2006 /06/10/db1001.xml Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 From dkramb@badbear.com Sat Jun 10 10:05:25 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060610100317.01f70748@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: OH Spring Report Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2006 10:05:38 -0400 >I haven't seen before. I also have what I thought was >I. cristata in bloom but it is white. Is there a white >form that I might have picked up? I originally had it Yup! I've seen several white forms in commerce, and also in the wild. Dennis in Cincy From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Jun 10 15:08:53 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060610120637.00c47750@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: OH Spring Report Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2006 12:09:26 -0700 For a description of numerous cultivars of Iris cristata, including white forms, see Cole Burrell's article in the spring 2006 Rock Garden Quarterly. When I was developing this feature, I was surprised to learn there were so many available. I hope to acquire some of them soon, even though it's a constant struggle to keep slugs away from Iris cristata and its relatives here. Our native Evansia (crested) species, I. tenuis, appears to grow just above the "slug line," barely up in the elevation where snow lies all winter most years -- the next ridge up from my home. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA > >I haven't seen before. I also have what I thought was > >I. cristata in bloom but it is white. Is there a white > >form that I might have picked up? I originally had it > >Yup! I've seen several white forms in commerce, and also in the wild. From lwallpe@juno.com Sat Jun 10 22:50:59 2006 Message-Id: <20060610.195013.9049.152252@webmail01.lax.untd.com> From: "lwallpe@juno.com" Subject: Sir Peter Smithers' gardening philosophy Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 02:49:31 GMT Brian Whyer: Thank you for posting the obituary URL. It is interesting indeed! Mary Sue - Were Sir Peter's ideas published anywhere? It is the dream of a lot of older gardeners! Linda Wallpe ________________________________________________________________________ Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month! Unlimited Internet Access with 1GB of Email Storage. Visit http://www.juno.com/value to sign up today! From gardenersview@earthlink.net Sun Jun 11 15:44:55 2006 Message-Id: From: "sekkei" Subject: Bulb seedlings Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 12:44:54 -0700 Dear All, For the first time I have germinated seeds of many species of bulbs. Germination has been excellent. My question, as rudimentary as it sounds, what is the aftercare? What happens this fall? Do they go into a dormancy? I guess my biggest concern is the summer dormant species. They are growing along well. The summer heat is arriving and the parents are resting. Are the seedlings being kept artificially growing? Should water be withheld as in nature? They seem so fragile that withholding water at this time seems to be certain death. Are there some comprehensive sources on bulb seedling after care any one can recommend? I'll be searching the PBS wiki. Thanks, Terence Hernstrom From john@floralarchitecture.com Sun Jun 11 20:50:19 2006 Message-Id: <20060612005018.80777.qmail@web36210.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: OH Spring Report Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 17:50:18 -0700 (PDT) Jane, Thanks for the heads up about the article. Unfortunately, I am not a member of the Rock Gardening Society and have never seen any of their journals. Also, I hope it was OK. I put your email on a MySpace group that I am apart of. Someone in WA was looking for some bulbs and I told them to contact you. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From msittner@mcn.org Sun Jun 11 21:05:41 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060611174313.0374bda8@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Bulb seedlings Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 17:59:15 -0700 Dear Terence, Many Amaryillid species will continue to grow the first year and you can try to keep them growing so the bulb will get bigger. Others no matter what you try to do to keep them going die back and are best kept dry until time for them to be in growth again. Most are best kept in their seedling pots as disturbing them when they are young leads to loss. So a lot of us start them in larger pots so they can easily stay in the same place for a couple of years. Or you can move them carefully when they are in growth again to a bigger pot. Protect them from the heat and sun by moving them into a shady spot. Some people water their seedling pots occasionally when dormant. This is best on a cool day. When we were doing the topic of the week our first topic was growing from seed. You could check out what was said by looking at the archives: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2002-November/subject.html You should check out the no subject ones too since these posts were took place when we had another server and I and some helpers spent weeks trying to get them in a format so we could archive them when we moved to ibiblio and we ended up with a few glitches in spite of our best efforts. We continued to discuss difficult seeds that month and the next. From time to time I like to give a plug to IBSA. People who are interested in growing South African bulbs I think would find it a great group to join. Recently a number of people at one of their meetings shared their seed starting techniques and this was written up for those of us who are unable to attend their meetings in South Africa. I hope this helps. Mary Sue From msittner@mcn.org Sun Jun 11 21:05:45 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060611175921.03754d70@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Sir Peter Smithers' gardening philosophy Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 18:05:19 -0700 Dear Linda, The philosophy was in his book, Adventures of a Gardener by Peter Smithers. In the introduction he lists his principles for his garden in Switzerland. If you are interested in them I can ask my husband to scan them for me and then can email them to you. There were twelve, some specific to that garden and some general which could apply to any garden. Mary Sue From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Jun 11 22:21:45 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060611191800.00c34c50@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Bulb seedlings Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 19:22:20 -0700 Terence asked, guess my biggest concern is the summer dormant species. They [seedlings] are growing >along well. The summer heat is arriving and the parents are resting. Are the >seedlings being kept artificially growing? Should water be withheld as in >nature? They seem so fragile that withholding water at this time seems to be >certain death. I don't know of any "comprehensive" sources of bulb seedling care, but when I helped edit John Bryan's second edition of "Bulbs," I tried to incorporate some practical knowledge of growing bulbs from seeds in the entries for genera I grow. It is indeed tricky to decide when to stop watering bulb seedlings, but I seem to be able to bring them along by removing them from the irrigated seedling area when they turn yellow and moving them to a cool, shady site where they are not watered but are kept covered with overturned flats. When I'm finished repotting the mature bulbs in my collection in late July, I pot up the seedling bulbs, except for Crocus and some Calochortus which I leave in the seed pots for a second year, and plunge them in the bulb frame. I start watering the seedlings with the onset of fall rains here, which is usually about mid-September. It's important not to let them dry out too much, though. If you live in a hot area, it would be good to cover their pots with something like Reemay to reduce evaporation, and be sure to keep them in the shade. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Jun 11 22:23:02 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060611192301.00c3e418@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: OH Spring Report Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 19:23:31 -0700 John wrote, >Jane, > Thanks for the heads up about the article. Unfortunately, I am not a > member of the Rock Gardening Society and have never seen any of their > journals. That is indeed unfortunate! Jane McGary Editor, North American Rock Garden SOciety Join at www.nargs.org From barryandjac@bigpond.com Mon Jun 12 02:10:06 2006 Message-Id: <005101c68de6$d7305020$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Bulb seedlings Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 14:10:01 +0800 Hi Terence, I have grown bulbs from seed and they seem to go into a natural dormancy period of their own accord. Depending what the species is and if you get frost where you are, the growth may be affected. The seedlings I grew were Chasmanthe Floribunda, Freesias, Veltheimias, Chives - Garlic and Sparaxis. I am just about to try Canna lilies and Tritonias - Can any one advise on growing these from seed? Am just going to try pot luck otherwise! Will let you know how I go. Jacinda Perth, Western Australia finally it will rain for the next 2 days! > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From barryandjac@bigpond.com Mon Jun 12 02:14:43 2006 Message-Id: <005d01c68de7$7d15cba0$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Bulb seedlings Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 14:14:39 +0800 Hi Mary Sue, Thanks for the advice. Greatly appreciated. Will go look at the archives. Jacinda Wilson, WA > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From jshields@indy.net Mon Jun 12 08:14:53 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060612075903.026a55a8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Bulb seedlings Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 08:15:09 -0400 Hi Terrence, Mary Sue, and all, Further on the subject of starting Amaryllids from seeds: Many bulb species are easily set back if disturbed any time during their first three years from seed. Mary Sue's advice is quite on target -- plant the seeds in larger pots so that they can be left undisturbed for up to 3 years. I did an experiment about 8 years ago. I had several batches of seeds of Haemanthus barkerae. One batch was repotted at the end of the second growing season; i.e., they were a little over 1 year old. Another batch was left alone for 4 growing seasons before repotting. The early repotted batch have still not bloomed, while the undisturbed batch started flowering two years ago. Once the bulbs get a good size and a strong root system, they profit from being repotted regularly. I try to do it every two years. For seeds of Haemanthus, I start one seed per 4-inch to 5-inch square pot; then don't even think of repotting for at least 3 years! Haemanthus bloom, if undisturbed, in 4 or 5 years from planting seed. If you disturb the seedling before that time, the first bloom can be delayed until 7, 8, or 9 years. I speak from sad experience. Hippeastrum do best if not only kept undisturbed but kept in continuous growth until bloom size. They are pretty happy even when jammed together in a crowded seedling pot. The "Hippies" are pretty easy this way. Haemanthus are trickier to keep in continuous growth; but I have lost more young Haemanthus seedlings, even after two growth seasons, to dry summer storage than to light watering and continuous growth conditions. Winter-growing species are kept in growth over summer in my basement (air-conditioned) under fluorescent lights and are watered occasionally as well as fed lightly (20-20-20 or 20-10-20 at 1/4 strength). Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jimmckenney@starpower.net Mon Jun 12 09:40:30 2006 Message-Id: <000d01c68e25$c682c1b0$12012c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Bulb seedlings Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 09:40:27 -0400 Jacinda wrote " The seedlings I grew were Chasmanthe Floribunda, Freesias, Veltheimias, Chives - Garlic and Sparaxis." Jacinda, what sort of garlic did you grow from seed? I was under the impression that garlic is not grown from seed, that it does not form viable seed. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where so-called elephant garlic (evidently a leek rather than a garlic) is now in bloom From jimmckenney@starpower.net Mon Jun 12 12:38:18 2006 Message-Id: <000a01c68e3e$9d605310$de022c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Iris brevicaulis Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 12:38:18 -0400 Iris brevicaulis is blooming in the garden this week, so I've added an image to the wiki. Please take a look at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/BeardlessIrises This species has big flowers on low stems and is an interesting addition to the border. Here it blooms with the Japanese irises, which makes it one of the later blooming irises. In my experience this is a tough, tolerant, easily grown plant which seems to grow well in ordinary garden soil without additional moisture. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the earliest lilies are already over and the main season Asiatic hybrids are beginning to bloom in numbers and variety. From barryandjac@bigpond.com Mon Jun 12 22:19:46 2006 Message-Id: <001901c68e8f$d070aab0$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Bulb seedlings Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 10:19:35 +0800 Hi Jim, I had a feeling when I posted my note that i would be picked up for this. I meant Garlic Chives! Oops! We grow our garlic from cloves. Thanks for your posting on seed growing and repotting of seedlings. It is going to be very helpful to me! I have not long been growing bulbs from seeds and am very definitely a Novice still. Are Canna lilies easy to grow from seed? I have two of the Dwarf Tropical Rose Canna. It self seeded so goodness knows what I'll get. How long till flowering from sowing do you think? Any tips? All advice greatly appreciated. Ta Jac Wilson, West. Australia From msittner@mcn.org Mon Jun 12 22:58:46 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060612191115.02048e70@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Wiki Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 19:58:30 -0700 Dear All, For the last three out of four days we have had a massive wiki porno attack. I have spent many hours restoring things, but for the moment have disabled the wiki. The pictures are still there and can be accessed through the files page. But you won't be able to look at the wiki pages or add anything to it until we can figure out a solution. It is our understanding that people get paid to add porno links to web sites and wikis. The beauty of a wiki with everyone being able to contribute is also its disadvantage. If anyone in our group has superior programming skills or knowledge about this kind of thing and wants to help us, contact me privately. Mary Sue From khixson@nu-world.com Tue Jun 13 03:03:17 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20060612234300.02762b20@mail.nu-world.com> From: Kenneth Hixson Subject: Bulb seedlings Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 00:02:51 -0700 Hi, Jacinda >Are Canna lilies easy to grow from seed? I have two of the Dwarf Tropical >Rose Canna. It self seeded so goodness knows what I'll get. How long till >flowering from sowing do you think? Any tips? Tropical Rose is a seed grown strain, and unless crossed with other cannas, the seedlings probably will resemble mama. Cannas have a very hard, water impermiable seed coat. It is often recommended that the seeds be filed, or nicked with a knife. Having tried both, I would suggest filing a shallow notch in the side away from the point where the seed was attached. It takes a while, even though you only need to make enough of a notch to allow water to penetrate into the seed. You may find it easiest to hold the seed with a pair of pliers while you file the notch, It is sometimes recommended to drop the seeds in water which has been brought to a boil, then allowed to cool for a day with the seeds in the water. Didn't work for me. Once the seed germinates, growth is fairly rapid, although for northern climates it is recommended that you start canna seeds in January if you want to see flowers the first year. For you, it might not be that critical. This might be one exception to the "community pot" type of growing. I suggest that the seedlings be transplanted to individual pots as quickly as possible, and then potted up to larger and deeper pots as soon as the roots reach the bottom of the pot. Given light, warmth, and regular but weak fertilizer, cannas will be flowering size, and large plants, before the end of summer. Ken From blweintraub1@earthlink.net Tue Jun 13 13:17:32 2006 Message-Id: <27512881.1150219051622.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: blweintraub1@earthlink.net Subject: NARGS Quarterly Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 11:17:31 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Although some may think that, as editor, Jane is biased regarding the North American Rock Garden Quarterly, I assure you that it is an excellent resource for all plant lovers, with superb articles on bulbs several times a year. An east coast American plantsman was once asked why he was a member of NARGS. His reply: "That's where all the plant nuts are!" (Perhaps another NARGS member can help with attribution and the exact quote.) - Barbara Weintraub Santa Fe, New Mexico, USA >John wrote, > >> Thanks for the heads up about the article. Unfortunately, I am not a >> member of the Rock Gardening Society and have never seen any of their >> journals. > >Jane wrote: >That is indeed unfortunate! > >Jane McGary >Editor, North American Rock Garden SOciety >Join at www.nargs.org From brutem@mcn.org Tue Jun 13 14:20:37 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060613111528.01a13d88@mail.mcn.org> From: Bob Rutemoeller Subject: Sir Peter Smithers Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 11:20:25 -0700 Here is a bit more information and links to Sir Peter Smithers and his Garden at Vico Morcote in Switzerland Garden tour at: http://www.adhikara.com/sir-peter-smithers/botanical-garden.html (in several languages) Also from the Times On Line: http://timesonline.typepad.com/gardening/2006/06/sir_peter_smith.html Friday, June 09, 2006 Sir Peter Smithers Statesman, gardener and model for James Bond, Sir Peter Smithers died yesterday at his garden in Switzerland aged 92. I'll miss him greatly and so will the many garden aficionados who used to beat their way up his garden path to see the house and garden he'd made from scratch over nearly 40 years on a south facing slope above Lake Lugano. The garden lives on in virtual form www.vicogarden.com. Sir Peter's website went live today and it is both beautiful and educational. The website gives a glimpse of the paradise where I first stayed while I was at school with his daughter Amelia, who has been caring for her father since Lady Smithers died earlier this year. The house has a mountain stream running through it, and so much glass and so many plants that the boundaries between inside and out are blurred to extinction. In spring the view from the 54m terrace danced across a mass of magnolias down to the lake. In summer, as the leaf canopy thickened and the vast bamboo Phyllostachys pubescens rocketed skywards, the terrace and house were shaded. Incidentally, the bamboo would grow up to 40cm a day and the Smithers family used them in everything from fritters to ice cream. Peter found his way into the annals of history in British Naval Intelligence (he worked with Ian Fleming and was often regarded as a model for James Bond) and as an MP and Secretary General of the Council of Europe. His garden was the cherry on this impressive cake. He designed the one-acre plot to mature with him to become a self sustaining ecosystem as he grew older. The blank canvas was filled with about 10,000 plants, none of them repeated. Inspiration for this maturing partnership of gardener and garden came from the oak and sweet chestnut woodland around Lake Lugano. If native woodland could sustain its own attractive palette of hellebores, cyclamen, gentian and primroses, Smithers reasoned, a natural ecosystem could be created, using imported plants from similar habitats around the world. Magnolias were among the first arrivals and they were planted to create a luxurious upper canopy. Today there are more than 150 species and varieties, including macrophyllas raised from seed selected in the States. The magnolias are regarded as an important collection, and parts of it were propagated and made available through the Magnolia Society. Japanese and deciduous azaleas were added, along with rhododendrons, peonies, tree peonies, acers, cornus, Gardenias, Michelias, wisterias, Vibernums and plants like Ceanothus arboreus Trewithen Bluethat can cope in the milder parts of this country huddled against a warm wall but, in Sir Peters garden, became a small tree in three or four years. The final underplanting includes a wealth of Arisaema, cyclamen, some richly-coloured oriental hellebores bred by Miss Ballard and the marvellously fragrant Paramangaia weberbauerii from Peru. Existing primroses, the orchid Cephalanthera latifolia and wild strawberries were allowed to coexist alongside the foreign imports. On the left of the drive gardenias, two metres high, conceal one wall of the house. On the right, even taller creamy lilies nod scented heads. They were bred by Smithers, an unnamed seedling from Lilium X Vico Gold. This is turn came from L. sulphureum that Smithers collected in Burma. To the east, a 6m Acer palmatum Shisio Improveddisplays fiery orange-and-red foliage in autumn. Close by a Sinocalycanthus chinensis waves heart-shaped leaves from five main stems which reach about 2m high. The ground falls sharply away from the front of the house although the topography, like the weed population, is blotted out by dense planting. In summer, as the breeze picks up, enticing glimpses of lake and mountain are framed by rare plant material. Paths make several circuits across the stream and up and down the hillside, with the help of oak steps set into the slope which lead back to his terrace. Here, large earthenware dragon pots contain lotus, dwarf and otherwise; passionflowers, brugmansias and a wide variety of citrus, including a Buddhas finger. In the greenhouse a Grand Marnier brugmansia, dripping with vast pink-orange bells, takes up a 3m spread and, at ground level, Camassias including a variegated form and a yellow-flowered form that Smithers has bred, make splashes of colour. The scented White Snake wisteria romps 24m along the concrete balustrade at the edge of the terrace and this, and other Japanese wisterias, all of which wind in the same direction as the sun, is joined by Chinese wisterias, which wind in the opposite direction. In his late eighties Peter began giving away his collections - Exbury and Wisley were benefactors. Salamanders, birds and snakes kept pest attack to a minimum and the dense planting suppressed weeds. And the planting itself has built up a mulch which provides food and protection for plants. His autobiography, Adventures of a Gardener, explains all this, as well as describing an extraordinary life in which his nanny fed him fried backbird eggs, he met and married his late beloved wife in a matter of weeks and he continued to be a friend to various statesmen and women including Baroness Thatcher, who was in touch with him the night before he died. Posted by Jane Owen at 04:30 PM in Jane Owen | Permalink (end of Times On Line post) Bob Rutemoeller brutem@mcn.org From YOURCH@nortel.com Tue Jun 13 14:45:47 2006 Message-Id: <45409CEDA4EFB7428420872E126CFB010C3D8A8B@zrtphxm2.corp.nortel.com> From: "James Yourch" Subject: Wiki back online, but read-only Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 14:45:39 -0400 Hi all, As you may already know, the PBS wiki has been under attack and Mary Sue pulled the plug on it yesterday evening. Today I made some changes to the wiki configuration files and plugged it back in, so it is working again. The changes prevent anonymous logins so unless you have a valid id and password you can't create new pages, change existing pages, or upload files. Read-only activities, such as browsing wiki pages or viewing photos, are permitted. If you have something you would like to add to the wiki please hold off until we get a chance to address the security issues. If it is really urgent, you can e-mail me with the images or text changes and I will do my best to add them promptly. Regards, Jay From john@floralarchitecture.com Tue Jun 13 20:45:21 2006 Message-Id: <20060614004520.69725.qmail@web36209.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: OH Update Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 17:45:20 -0700 (PDT) I've now left OH and have returned to sunnier locales. There are a few things that I forgot to mention about OH that should be noted. The Eremerus are up and doing really well. I have tried planting these in various locations but none have done as well as the ones that my uncle planted, I'm sure haphazardly many moons ago. Oh well. Maybe I should let him plant more of them. I have successfully moved several Ipheion bulbs around the garden and they appear to be taking off. Also my Alberto Castillo as thriving so far. The Rhodophialas are all up and nice and green. There is one Hippeastrum Yellow Goddess that has returned for it's third year. Yeah. No blooms but it is surviving. It seems that all the Dahlias have disappeared. They must have been too dry over the winter. But, I got 6 years from them in the ground so I can't complain. I planted a variegated horseradish (that counts as a geop0hyte, right???). I found a quart size pot for a steal. I've been told by several people that I will be sorry that I planted it but the foliage is so stunning that I can't resist. I also want to get a nice red rhubard as an ornamental. I only get to see a few stragling stems from the tulips and I am never sure how well they bloom. My aunt and uncle are not the greatest photographers. But this year my aunt did get a few shots if various beds. The tulip 'President Kennedy' from Brent and Becky's 4 years ago (or so) have made one heck of a display and I would love to get more of them to add to the rest of the flower bed. I origianlly planted 500 and had many ripped out over the years as I thought it looked like they didn't bloom too well. Guess I should have left them alone. The daffodil foliage is not even starting to wilt yet. It is very strange. It is usually really yellow when I am there earlier in the year. I had peonies and roses flowering together. I should have gotten a photo but the rains made the rose blooms shed before the peonies and then it was mute to photograph them. I want to add some more tulips in the Ligularia 'Britt Marie Crawford'. I'm looking for a nice peach color. I've thought about Menton or Blushing Lady. I've had the latter before and it wasn't in a protected area so it fell over. The Ligularia is very protected and I think the purple foliage will look great with the peach. But, I am up for suggestions. I'd like to have something that will last. I've had Salmon Pearl and seems to last for a few years. The tulip 'Princess Irene' has faded in the moist areas of the garden but in the bed that isn't watered under the small lilac bushes, it returns with the grape hyacinths. I would plant the whole yard with grape hyacinths if I could. I know they are common but what an impact. The Colchicums (Lilac Wonder and Waterlily) were just starting to die down. I finally found places for the Fritillaria imperalis. I mentioned it before but my aunt's photos comfirmed that it flowers really well where it is at, under the birch on a sloped bed that gets no water and is constantly dry, even after a rain and at the mailbox in nearly pure sand. Maybe I will increase the quantity of them this fall in these areas. The daylilies are doing really well. I have them in every bed in the yard, some in great quantity. I planted 37 more. I planted 25 H. 'Nanuq' a near white diploid and 'Velvet Shadows', a lovely rich plum chocolate. I have many from Jim Shields (which I have never seen bloom myself but they could bloom when I am not there) that my aunt likes as well as some from Ensata Gardens. Japanese iris were just starting to bloom when I left. I wish I had names on many of them but they have been lost or were never known. Is there anyone that is an expert on Jap. iris cultivars? I could cite most of my sources if that would help narrow it down. Well, that is enough for now. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From john@floralarchitecture.com Tue Jun 13 20:47:08 2006 Message-Id: <20060614004708.9749.qmail@web36213.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: IBSA conference Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 17:47:08 -0700 (PDT) I'm finalizing my plans for my trip. Who else is going that I might be running into? You can email me off list, at john@floralarchitecture.com. Please do not hit reply or it will go to the list. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From dejager@bulbargence.com Wed Jun 14 02:31:36 2006 Message-Id: From: Lauw de Jager Subject: IBSA conference Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2006 08:29:44 +0200 Dear John and all, Indeed it would be nice to know for all us who is going. For my part I am planning to, but have not finalised yet. Saluts le 14/06/06 2:47, Floral Architecture à john@floralarchitecture.com a écrit : Who else is going that I might be running into? Lauw de Jager http://www.bulbargence.com South of France (Climat méditerranéen; zone 8 Olivier) Latitude 34° N Altitude: 4m From barryandjac@bigpond.com Wed Jun 14 03:42:25 2006 Message-Id: <001f01c68f86$0f005ef0$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Canna Lily seeds Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2006 15:42:16 +0800 Hi Ken, Thanks for the detailed info. I took a print and will follow your advice. The seeds feel as hard as Corningware! Regards to all Jacinda Wilson, West. Australia > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Wed Jun 14 06:22:19 2006 Message-Id: <001d01c68f9c$659ebd90$2a334593@angelaepdzuk5j> From: "angela offer" Subject: IBSA conference Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2006 18:22:09 +0800 Help, what is ISBA? Dumb Aussie Angela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lauw de Jager" To: "john@floralarchitecture.com, Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 2:29 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] IBSA conference Dear John and all, Indeed it would be nice to know for all us who is going. For my part I am planning to, but have not finalised yet. Saluts le 14/06/06 2:47, Floral Architecture à john@floralarchitecture.com a écrit : Who else is going that I might be running into? Lauw de Jager http://www.bulbargence.com South of France (Climat méditerranéen; zone 8 Olivier) Latitude 34° N Altitude: 4m _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From coffeecamp@optusnet.com.au Wed Jun 14 17:14:52 2006 Message-Id: <004f01c68ff7$8f6ff110$1376a4cb@geoff2abba5c65> From: "Geoffrey Barnier" Subject: Canna Lily seeds Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 07:14:43 +1000 Hi Jacinda in WA, Canna lilies are classed by my local authority in Northern NSW as a recognised environmental weed (invasive naturalised species): www.lismore.nsw.gov.au/view_doc.asp?id=100&cat=42 Cannas are also listed in parts of Queensland as weeds: www.nrm.qld.gov.au/pests/weeds/ environmental/pdf/assessment_invasive_plants.pdf Although it is still legal for them to be grown & sold in those areas unless they're declared noxious, the authorities would prefer that you didn't. Or, if you must grow them, to grow them in containers & prevent distribution of seed. About 67% of environmental weeds in Australia are garden escapees. Your local council's website should list weeds in your area or contact your Council's Environmental Health dept.: you may get a few surprises. Living in Coffee Camp, I planted a small coffee tree on either side of my house's entrance. The Environment Officer told me to get rid of them. In any event, you shouldn't have any trouble growing cannas. Scarifying & soaking the seed overnight will increase the germination rate. Keep warm & moist until germination; start off indoors now that's it's winter. Beware of root mealy bugs if you have them; of all my geophytes, the mealy bugs seem to like Canna best, esp. seedlings. They should flower in their first year. Geoffrey Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia From jshaw@opuntiads.com Wed Jun 14 18:30:35 2006 Message-Id: <001c01c69002$2a61e1b0$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Not a Bulb (a bit off topic geophyte note) Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2006 17:30:37 -0500 Not a Bulb (off topic a bit) My email friend Willy in Argentina sent me some images of my cactus Web site. One plant is a remarkable geophyte. It is a cactus, not too distantly related to prickly pears. It lives mostly underground in its truly hostile desert environment. The tip of the stem barely shows at the surface. Most of the stem is underground. The low profile allows the cactus to avoid excess heat and drying winds. However, when it rains the little plant expands a bit (accordion- or telescope-like) and takes advantage of a bit more exposure to sunlight to carry on the business of photosynthesis. But, even in the best of times the plants is mostly underground.. In the garden it can make stems, but it seldom does so in the driest regions of its natural range. LINK: Puna bonnieae, third row down, middle and left thumbnails http://www.opuntiads.com/html/argentina-opuntiads.html Cordially, Joe www.opuntiads.com The first Amarcrinum of the year is blooming. It is a light-pink, intensely fragrant hybrid created by Les Hannibal. They sure stand up to the heat. From barryandjac@bigpond.com Thu Jun 15 04:10:38 2006 Message-Id: <004101c69053$2a5cfbe0$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Canna Lily seeds Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 16:10:28 +0800 Hi Geoffrey, Thanks for advising about the weed potential of Canna Lilies. I have not checked out what are classified as weeds for WA yet but will do so. WA as you may already be aware has a huge problem with Watsonia, Arum Lilies and Pampas Grass. I am sure that there are many others but can't remember them all off the top of my head. I have been meaning to ask if anyone knows why Eremurus are not allowed to be sent to West. Australia now. Can anyone tell me? What is their weed potential? I have never grown them myself but am now regretting I did not try to obtain some a few years ago. On the subject of Arum Lilies. They have never been a pest for me and neither have Canna Lilies. Will post this to the Aust. Bulb Association also to get their opinions. Regards Jacinda Wilson, Western Australia where it is Winter, 21degrees and sunny! > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From dejager@bulbargence.com Thu Jun 15 04:13:59 2006 Message-Id: From: Lauw de Jager Subject: IBSA conference Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 10:11:49 +0200 Here is a copy of Mary Sue's Email last march: I don't think anyone has written on this list about the IBSA Bulb & Corm Symposium scheduled for August 28 to September 1 2006 in South Africa. I know that there are a number of us from this list who plan to attend and I am so looking forward to renewing friendships and seeing again people who live far away from me. I think it is a testimony to the excellence of the last symposium that so many of us who went then are returning. For those of you who are new to our list since I last sent out an enthusiastic endorsement of IBSA, IBSA stands for the Indigenous Bulb Association of South Africa. This group meets monthly in Cape Town for talks and to bring their plants for display. I am always envious when I get the notice of the meetings and read about what happened at the last meeting. They also put out a first rate journal once a year, edited by Rachel Saunders. Many months along with the notice of meetings is a "Bulb Chat" always full of interesting tidbits. In 2003 they had another Bulb Symposium which my husband and I attended. The first two days we listened to speakers and the next two and a half days went on buses to looks at plants in the wild. The symposium was very well organized and the speakers quite good. We loved the field trips and all the opportunities to visit with people who shared our interests. The symposium was held at the Goudini Spa which has hot springs and hot swimming pools. In 2003 they were having an unusually cold spell with snow on the mountains and cold/sometimes wet days. It made the mountains really beautiful, but meant that we all had to be really creative trying to keep warm. I'm bringing my hot water bottle and long underwear just in case there is a repeat this year although I understand the weather could be much warmer. The format for this symposium is similar. There will be several days of speakers and several days chasing after plants in bloom. How many we see will depend on how much winter rain they get, but there were a lot of fires in the Cape last year so with a little luck we might have some nice displays. Regardless, the chance to talk with people in South Africa about their native plants and with all of us fanatics who try to grow them will for me be worth the trip. The cost of this Symposium is $500 USD for one and $450 each USD for shared accommodation. This includes accommodation, transport for the field days, and meals. If you are interested please contact me privately and I can give you more details. It's past time for a deposit, but perhaps one of the IBSA officers on this list can tell us if it is still possible to attend.le 14/06/06 12:22, angela offer à angelasgarden@bigpond.com a écrit : > Help, what is ISBA? > Dumb Aussie > Angela > Dear John and all, > Indeed it would be nice to know for all us who is going. For my part I am > planning to, but have not finalised yet. > > le 14/06/06 2:47, Floral Architecture à john@floralarchitecture.com a > écrit : > Who else is going that I might be running into? > Lauw de Jager Bulb'Argence Mas d'Argence 30300 Fourques France tel 33(0)466 016 519 fax 0466 011 245 http://www.bulbargence.com From dkramb@badbear.com Thu Jun 15 09:16:50 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060615091619.0203a5e8@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Not a Bulb (a bit off topic geophyte note) Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 09:17:01 -0400 >drying winds. However, when it rains the little plant expands a bit >(accordion- or telescope-like) and takes advantage of a bit more exposure to That is sooo cool! I've never heard of something like that before. What a clever little plant. :-) Dennis in Cincinnati From ashley.cooper@new.co.za Thu Jun 15 14:49:28 2006 Message-Id: <000b01c690ac$6f0dd530$cb70ef9b@mykecbcb148b69> From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" Subject: [spam] Re: IBSA conference Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 16:30:22 +0200 I had invited anyone coming to this symposium to visit me in a village relatively close by. However, times change and we are now going on holiday during that period for two weeks to Namibia with my wife, Meryl's, best friend from the USA! The flowers in the Western Cape should be superb at that time as we have had some excellent rains in the area! ----- Original Message ----- From: Lauw de Jager To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 10:11 AM Subject: [spam] Re: [pbs] IBSA conference Here is a copy of Mary Sue's Email last march: I don't think anyone has written on this list about the IBSA Bulb & Corm Symposium scheduled for August 28 to September 1 2006 in South Africa. . . . . From norwesgard@earthlink.net Thu Jun 15 14:21:30 2006 Message-Id: <5F29DBEC-3782-433D-9480-D36FB7CBC862@earthlink.net> From: Mary Gutierrez Subject: IBSA Symposium Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 11:17:59 -0700 I'd also like to know who is attending the IBSA symposium. I am going, along with a friend from Portland, Oregon. We'd like to join up with others either before or after the event for more plant-related activities while in SA. (We plan to go to Kirstenbosch.) Mary http://www.northwestgardennews.com Northwest Garden News Seattle Zone 8B From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Thu Jun 15 14:35:48 2006 Message-Id: <1ab9b7a6b20fe45c03356516a3f7b81c@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: IBSA Symposium Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 11:35:45 -0700 You guys are all making me so envious! I don't know when I'll get back to South Africa, but the three weeks I was there 5 years ago was not nearly enough. Fantastic country all around and nothing like we had been led to think from news bits or other random bits of knowledge absorbed from here and there over the years before we went. Enjoy yourselves and we (or at least I) want to hear full reports from everyone about everything after you all get back! --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a On Jun 15, 2006, at 11:17 AM, Mary Gutierrez wrote: > I'd also like to know who is attending the IBSA symposium. I am > going, along with a friend from Portland, Oregon. > > We'd like to join up with others either before or after the event for > more plant-related activities while in SA. (We plan to go to > Kirstenbosch.) > From jglatt@hughes.net Thu Jun 15 16:11:04 2006 Message-Id: <4491BECE.8030406@hughes.net> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Why Do Bulbs Bloom When They Do? Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 16:10:54 -0400 I've been asked by one of the staff librarians at the New York Botanical Garden's Library why some bulbs flower in the spring and others bloom in the fall. (I didn't bother to point out to her that there's a third subset of summer-blooming bulbs.) I'm not sure what the answer is. Does anyone have good information as to why bulbs bloom when they do? Judy in New Jersey where the previous deluge has given way to days of clouds and sun. Dracunculus vulgaris is in bloom. Now that's a funky one! From jglatt@hughes.net Thu Jun 15 16:49:55 2006 Message-Id: <4491C7E9.5010002@hughes.net> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Bulbs and Bouquets Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 16:49:45 -0400 And another question - same librarian (this is all in connection with the gallery exhibition on bulbs this fall, in case you wondered why I'm emulating Kipling's insatiably curious elephant child) mentioned something about when were bouquets were first brought into the home. ? Of course we are all familiar with the splendid Dutch master paintings featuring tulips and crown imperial (powerful aroma, those bouquets), peonies and more flowers. But something must have preceded these. Western traditions, I'm not involving myself with ikebana. Does anyone have any idea of when posies were first brought indoors? Curiouser and curiouser. Judy in New jersey, who is of the "stuff them in a vase and hope things don't fall over" school of flower arranging From jshaw@opuntiads.com Thu Jun 15 18:24:42 2006 Message-Id: <002201c690ca$7a5f5760$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Inexpensive Delivery of Plants Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 17:24:31 -0500 Hi Gang, Recently, while on vacation, I sent some items home via DHL. The packages weighed about 40 lb., and the cost was about $13.00 per package. They were sent from Las Cruces, New Mexico to Conroe, TX (near Houston). My traveling companion explained that if the overall dimensions (length, width, height) of the box are not large, DHL was a good value for sending items that can take 3-5 days or more to travel. I sent some large boxes, maybe 14 inches, by 14 inches, by 20 inches (or close). Here is my question. I want to send a 5-gallon, potted Crinum to an email friend. What is the most inexpensive way to send it, assuming that: 1) it will not overheat on the way, and 2) that delivery time of 5 or 10 days is fine. As you can tell, I'm allergic to expensive. Regarding overheating; I guess this is an unknown but my friends in several industries tell me that temperatures over 80 F almost never happen during the shipment many items in the USA. Am I too optimistic? Naturally, a box left on a porch or in a mailbox can become quite hot in a few hours of summer sun, but I am thinking about on-the-way-type conditions. Cordially, Joe www.opuntiads.com From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu Jun 15 20:09:13 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060615170732.00bed9c0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Not a Bulb (a bit off topic geophyte note) Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 17:09:50 -0700 It was enjoyable to see this mention and posting of Puna bonnieae, since it was discovered by a friend of mine here in Portland, Bonnie Brunkow Olson, and named in her honor when it was described. She was on a plant-hunting expedition with Sean Hogan, Parker Sanderson, and I think one or two other people in Argentina at that time. If this plant is being cultivated in North America, we'd love to get a bit of it going here in Portland. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From ashley.cooper@new.co.za Thu Jun 15 22:04:58 2006 Message-Id: <02b001c690e9$44d5cd80$cb70ef9b@mykecbcb148b69> From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" Subject: IBSA Symposium Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 03:53:58 +0200 Please make a point of booking a one hour trip on Kirstenbosch's electric cart around the gardens. It's a fascinating drive with a very erudite and chatty volunteer driver/guide to tell you about the many plants and fauna. We regularly go on this drive as we could never walk this in a day! ----- Original Message ----- From: Mary Gutierrez To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 8:17 PM Subject: [pbs] IBSA Symposium I'd also like to know who is attending the IBSA symposium. I am going, along with a friend from Portland, Oregon. We'd like to join up with others either before or after the event for more plant-related activities while in SA. (We plan to go to Kirstenbosch.) Mary http://www.northwestgardennews.com Northwest Garden News Seattle Zone 8B From barryandjac@bigpond.com Fri Jun 16 01:23:00 2006 Message-Id: <004d01c69104$e90ae5a0$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: [pbs ] Calla Lilies/Arum Lilies Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 13:03:12 +0800 Hi Angela, Re; Arum lilies, by "every little bit" do you mean the roots as well as the corms or just bits of the corms? (Please excuse my ignorance!) Also can anyone advise me on the best aspect to grow Calla lilies in. they seem to be languishing in the shade and seem to be doing better in the garden or in pots in half day sun/part shade. What have other people found? Re: > Hi Jacinda - I had Arum lilies in Perth in a dry spot, and they were never a > problem. But you find a damp spot and they not only "take off" but are also > extremely hard to dig up - every little bit left grows, and roundups no good > either. I have never known canna lilies to be a problem in WA > Angela From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Fri Jun 16 02:16:19 2006 Message-Id: <000c01c6910c$5b2711c0$1d334593@angelaepdzuk5j> From: "angela offer" Subject: [pbs ] Calla Lilies/Arum Lilies Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 14:13:54 +0800 Yes, Every little bit, including a bit of root. If you want them to grow plant them in a really boggy spot, any overflow from washing water? Full sun or part shade Angela ps If you get a hold of the pink Arum lilies, marshmallow they are called, I would love some, I have green goddess if you want some of those, Angela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jacinda and Barry" <> To: "PBS" ; "Aust Bulbs" Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 1:03 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] [pbs ] Calla Lilies/Arum Lilies > Hi Angela, > > Re; Arum lilies, by "every little bit" do you mean the roots as well as the > corms or just bits of the corms? (Please excuse my ignorance!) > > Also can anyone advise me on the best aspect to grow Calla lilies in. they > seem to be languishing in the shade and seem to be doing better in the > garden or in pots in half day sun/part shade. > > What have other people found? > > Re: > > Hi Jacinda - I had Arum lilies in Perth in a dry spot, and they were never > a > > problem. But you find a damp spot and they not only "take off" but are > also > > extremely hard to dig up - every little bit left grows, and roundups no > good > > either. I have never known canna lilies to be a problem in WA > > Angela > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From jglatt@hughes.net Fri Jun 16 05:51:24 2006 Message-Id: <44927F0E.1080300@hughes.net> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Timing of Bloom in Bulbs Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 05:51:10 -0400 Of course there are "triggers" that awaken dormant bulbs - rain at the end of a dry season, warmth at the end of a cold one. I'm still puzzled as to why some crocus flower in fall when many of them bloom in spring. And what advantage does colchicum gain, flowering in fall and waiting 8 months to produce seed. And then there are bulbs that flower in summer, adding a third season into the equation . . . Judy in New Jersey, where an accidentally dug up hyacinth has a nice fringe of white roots at the basal plate. From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Fri Jun 16 06:02:06 2006 Message-Id: <000901c6912b$eacb6fa0$7afc0352@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Timing of Bloom in Bulbs Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 11:02:02 +0100 The perceived advantage of autumnal flowering is that it occurs at a time when flowers are relatively scarce and insects relatively plentiful, enabling effective pollination. The crocoid genera in the Mediterranean mostly have subterranean seed capsules that are not exposed to winter weather, so come to no harm if pollinated early: amaryllids such as Narcissus serotinus and Acis autumnalis ripen and shed seed very quickly, so the capsules are unlikely to suffer from winter damage. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Judy Glattstein" To: > > I'm still puzzled as to why some crocus flower in fall when many of them > bloom in spring. And what advantage does colchicum gain, flowering in > fall and waiting 8 months to produce seed. > > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Jun 16 07:37:33 2006 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Not a Bulb (a bit off topic geophyte note) Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 11:37:31 +0000 Dear Jane: How interesting to hear you mentioning lovely Bonnie. That expedition was a memorable time, the fourth member was a man from a Texas Botanic Garden. Lot of fun. IF THIS PLANT IS BEING CULTIVATED IN NORTH AMERICA AS YOU SAY, other than the couple of original specimens to make the herbarium vouchers, etc., is a result of the plundering expeditions that have been taken of late, mostly from people from Germany that come and wipe out the populations of the rarer cacti TO SELL, like these that are true geophytes, the aerial part being a fleshy" button with a big underground "tuber". If you people see these extremely unusual cacti for sale, do make your contribution to Nature by not buying them no matter how mouth watering they look and spread the word. Wild populations are small and these Germans collect them to the last plant. Extensive evidence of recent activities of the kind leave only the spots plain bare. AND, these cacti are extremely slow growing therefore it is impossible that they have adult "seed grown" plants. I appeal to your decency and conscience to spread the word, people. I know most of you are here for your love of plants and would not render a species extinct for childish greed. All the best Alberto Ezeiza Botanical Garden Argentina >From: Jane McGary >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] Not a Bulb (a bit off topic geophyte note) >Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 17:09:50 -0700 > >It was enjoyable to see this mention and posting of Puna bonnieae, since it >was discovered by a friend of mine here in Portland, Bonnie Brunkow Olson, >and named in her honor when it was described. She was on a plant-hunting >expedition with Sean Hogan, Parker Sanderson, and I think one or two other >people in Argentina at that time. > >If this plant is being cultivated in North America, we'd love to get a bit >of it going here in Portland. > >Jane McGary >Northwestern Oregon, USA > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Jun 16 11:49:51 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Aril Society International Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 10:49:44 -0500 Dear all; It has been a while since there has been a mention of the Aril Society International. Please do your self a favor and go look at : http://www.arilsociety.org/arilsociety.pl?index . This is the best organization for information on Arillate irises and their hybrids. Although the pure Aril species include some more difficult to cultivate plants (Oncocyclus and Regelia Irises), the aril-bred hybrids with the garden bearded iris are "FABULOUS"! Yes that is over the top. I mention this now because I have just received the catalog for their annual fund raising plant sale. The selection and prices are excellent - large selection, low prices. You must be a member to make purchases, but the web site provides a catalog of the sale and membership info. Of course, I waited to send this reminder until AFTER i sent my order, so good luck. Recommended. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From mann@mweb.co.za Fri Jun 16 12:30:41 2006 Message-Id: <001801c69162$394c92e0$b9f817c4@homepc> From: "George Mann" Subject: International Conference CLIVIA Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 18:30:46 +0200 Hi All I thought I will let everyone know that the Clivia Society will be hosting their International Conference a week after the IBSA Symposium, for more information on the happenings at the Clivia Conference you can visit their web site at : http://www.cliviasociety.org I believe more information will be added later in the year. Kindest Regards George Mann mann@mweb.co.za From Ger.Stickroth@t-online.de Fri Jun 16 17:02:13 2006 Message-Id: <1FrLS0-0kM7BA0@fwd29.sul.t-online.de> From: Ger.Stickroth@t-online.de (Gerhard Stickroth) Subject: Not a Bulb (a bit off topic geophyte note) Date: 16 Jun 2006 21:01 GMT Dear Alberta, it was with great interest that I read your mail. What really caught my interest was your referral to "These Germans". For Germans the location of Puna bonnieaa is a little out of the way. What indications do you have that the culprits were Germans? And if that is the case what are your custom people doing? I was really annoyed to hear that people are doing such an aweful thing to nature. Regards Gerhard "Alberto Castillo" schrieb: > Dear Jane: > How interesting to hear you mentioning lovely Bonnie. That > expedition was a memorable time, the fourth member was a man from a Texas > Botanic Garden. Lot of fun. > IF THIS PLANT IS BEING CULTIVATED IN NORTH AMERICA AS YOU > SAY, other than the couple of original specimens to make the herbarium > vouchers, etc., is a result of the plundering expeditions that have been > taken of late, mostly from people from Germany that come and wipe out the > populations of the rarer cacti TO SELL, like these that are true geophytes, > the aerial part being a fleshy" button with a big underground "tuber". > If you people see these extremely unusual cacti for sale, do > make your contribution to Nature by not buying them no matter how mouth > watering they look and spread the word. Wild populations are small and these > Germans collect them to the last plant. Extensive evidence of recent > activities of the kind leave only the spots plain bare. AND, these cacti are > extremely slow growing therefore it is impossible that they have adult "seed > grown" plants. > I appeal to your decency and conscience to spread the word, > people. I know most of you are here for your love of plants and would not > render a species extinct for childish greed. > > > All the best > Alberto > Ezeiza Botanical Garden > Argentina > > > >From: Jane McGary > >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > >To: Pacific Bulb Society > >Subject: Re: [pbs] Not a Bulb (a bit off topic geophyte note) > >Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 17:09:50 -0700 > > > >It was enjoyable to see this mention and posting of Puna bonnieae, since it > >was discovered by a friend of mine here in Portland, Bonnie Brunkow Olson, > >and named in her honor when it was described. She was on a plant-hunting > >expedition with Sean Hogan, Parker Sanderson, and I think one or two other > >people in Argentina at that time. > > > >If this plant is being cultivated in North America, we'd love to get a bit > >of it going here in Portland. > > > >Jane McGary > >Northwestern Oregon, USA > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >pbs mailing list > >mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Jun 16 17:27:37 2006 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Not a Bulb (a bit off topic geophyte note) Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 21:27:34 +0000 Hi Gerhard: You raise an interesting point: the culprits for the plundering of cacti are not those that come, collect them illegally, sneak them through the borders and take them to Europe where they reach interesting prices but the Customs people that do not guess they are doing this. Along the same lines, someone was explaining some time ago that the origin of current global warming is the FUTURE development of China and India. I am not smart enough to undestand these reasonings, I must confess. When I say "these Germans" of course I am referring to the few that are doing this plundering. Probably 99,99% of all people living in Germany is not involved nor will ever have any idea that this is happening. But, a small band will pay high prices without asking too much, don't you think so? Best wishes Alberto Castillo >From: Ger.Stickroth@t-online.de (Gerhard Stickroth) >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: "Pacific Bulb Society" >Subject: Re: [pbs] Not a Bulb (a bit off topic geophyte note) >Date: 16 Jun 2006 21:01 GMT > >Dear Alberta, >it was with great interest that I read your mail. What really caught my >interest was your referral to "These Germans". For Germans the location >of Puna bonnieaa is a little out of the way. What indications do you >have that the culprits were Germans? And if that is the case what are >your custom people doing? I was really annoyed to hear that people are >doing such an aweful thing to nature. >Regards >Gerhard > "Alberto Castillo" schrieb: > > Dear Jane: > > How interesting to hear you mentioning lovely Bonnie. >That > > expedition was a memorable time, the fourth member was a man from a >Texas > > Botanic Garden. Lot of fun. > > IF THIS PLANT IS BEING CULTIVATED IN NORTH AMERICA AS YOU > > SAY, other than the couple of original specimens to make the herbarium > > vouchers, etc., is a result of the plundering expeditions that have been > > taken of late, mostly from people from Germany that come and wipe out >the > > populations of the rarer cacti TO SELL, like these that are true >geophytes, > > the aerial part being a fleshy" button with a big underground "tuber". > > If you people see these extremely unusual cacti for sale, >do > > make your contribution to Nature by not buying them no matter how mouth > > watering they look and spread the word. Wild populations are small and >these > > Germans collect them to the last plant. Extensive evidence of recent > > activities of the kind leave only the spots plain bare. AND, these cacti >are > > extremely slow growing therefore it is impossible that they have adult >"seed > > grown" plants. > > I appeal to your decency and conscience to spread the >word, > > people. I know most of you are here for your love of plants and would >not > > render a species extinct for childish greed. > > > > > > All the best > > Alberto > > Ezeiza Botanical Garden > > Argentina _________________________________________________________________ Sé uno de los primeros a testar el Windows Live Messenger beta. http://imagine-msn.com/minisites/messenger/default.aspx?locale=es-ar From dells@voicenet.com Sat Jun 17 07:55:04 2006 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 120 Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 07:56:18 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 120" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash, check, or Paypal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: .... Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com . If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Rogan Roth: 1. Seed of Cyrtanthus contractus From Mark Mazer: 2. "Rhizomes" of Geranium transversale From Alberto Grossi: SEEDS: 3. Hermodactylus tuberosa 4. Iris lactea 5. Iris aurea 6. Cypella coelestis 7. Allium ursinum 8. Tulbaghia violacea 9. Colchicum autumnalis Thank you, Rogan, Mark, and Alberto!! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From kellyo@wetrock.com Sat Jun 17 08:54:23 2006 Message-Id: <44939972.25054.18DCF8DC@kellyo.wetrock.com> From: "Kelly O'Neill" Subject: Bulbs and Bouquets Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:56:02 -0700 > Does anyone have any idea of when > posies were first brought indoors? Curiouser and curiouser. I don't know, however, I'm sure the early cavepeople (aka cavemen) brought 'em in. I do wonder when they started keeping them in water:-). Flower Power is as Old as Flowers, KellyO Kelly O'Neill Wet Rock Gardens Flower Farm U-Pick and more at the farm (open 9 to 6, Sun, Wed and Fri - from March thru Halloween): 2877 N 19th Street Springfield, Oregon 97477 To contact us: * Business Office for mail or by appointment only: gardens@wetrock.com * 1950 Yolanda AVE http://www.wetrock.com * Springfield, Oregon 97477 (541) 746-4444 * From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat Jun 17 11:26:29 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Bulbs and Bouquets Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 10:14:15 -0500 Dear Judy; I agree with Kelly that the answers are more anthropological than horticultural. Even birds and lower primates are attracted to bright colors Maybe it is in the genome. I suspect some brightly colored flowers ended up in a pile in a cave or around a camp fire with the gathered bulbs and roots for dinner and set aside. Which came first the bouquet or the vase? Just joking. Best Jim W. > > Does anyone have any idea of when >> posies were first brought indoors? Curiouser and curiouser. > >I don't know, however, I'm sure the early cavepeople (aka >cavemen) brought 'em in. I do wonder when they started >keeping them in water:-). > Flower Power is as Old as Flowers, KellyO -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat Jun 17 11:26:31 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: "Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 10:24:05 -0500 Dear all; I noticed these topics recently and was slightly put off by their inaccuracy and I don't think any one noted that neither Callas (Genus Zantedeschia) or Arum (Genus Zantedeschia) are actually lilies. Both of these common names refer to plants NOT in the lily family or closely related. The names Arum and Calla actually refer to genera by those name and not the Genus under discussion. The common names can refer to other plants, too. The genus Calla is a small genus of northern marshy aroids, while the genus Arum is larger in number of species and distribution. Neither overlaps with Zantedeschia. Likewise 'Canna Lilies' are not true lilies, but more correctly called just 'Canna'. Just as peony roses are not roses. If this list is to have educational value these crucial differences should be made clear. So this note is not a chastisement, but for clarity and better understanding of where these things all fit into a bigger picture. We have often grumbled about the peculiar nature of common names especially regional ones. Hope this helps. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From msittner@mcn.org Sat Jun 17 12:04:09 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060617083347.036d7728@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: "Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 09:03:43 -0700 Dear Jim, Your note about using botanical names made me smile. I usually use both when people in my hiking group ask me a question as most of them do not want to learn the botanical names at all. It seems like a lost cause. I also have trouble with the use of the word lily. Since so many California genera were considered belonging in the Liliaceae family in Jepson all of those were referred to by some as lilies (Calochortus to Clintonia to Triteleia for instance). I never found that very useful in talking about the plants. Some of those genera now are in different families thank goodness. And if I give something a common name I've heard when someone else knows it by another name they will correct me. I usually respond with saying if it's a common name they can call it anything they want, but other people may not know what they are talking about. Here in Northern California where Zantedeschia aethiopica has naturalized in wet places as it sounds like it has in Western Australia everyone calls them Calla lilies and would have no idea what I was talking about if I used the botanical name. I didn't realize people called them Arum lilies until on our first trip to South Africa when we asked about flowers in the Western Cape near Darling. We wanted to go see some of the reserves where there are often wonderful displays of flowers. The woman we talked to at the visitors center near there insisted we were too early and would find much more to our interest in Cape Town and should move on. We continued to explain we were interested in flowers not cities and we knew you could drive on some of the farmer's properties to look. Finally she brightened and told us when we drove out of town there was a nice patch of Arum lilies near some cows and that should be enough to satisfy us. We could stop and take a picture. We chuckled as we left intending to find those reserves on our own since we don't have to leave California to see such a sight. In an International list like ours I agree that it is safer for us to use botanical names so everyone will know what it is we are talking about. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From msittner@mcn.org Sat Jun 17 12:22:29 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060617090419.036d5c10@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Timing of Bloom in Bulbs Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 09:22:05 -0700 Dear Judy, Observing the California bulbs, most bloom in spring or early summer. If they started into growth in fall rainfall is hit or miss so even if this was a good time to bloom it's not really a good time to start growing. In South Africa many of the winter rainfall amaryllids bloom in fall since they have seeds that germinate very soon and they will need a nice wet spot in the ground for awhile to grow or otherwise the seed will die and there would be no new plants. This isn't going to happen in spring or summer in those areas. Some of the other families that have seed that isn't recalcitrant bloom in spring or summer. Even some of the fall bloomers from South Africa in other families like the Hyacinth family don't have ripe seed until later, but many of them are from very dry areas so rainfall to destroy seeds isn't as much a factor. Where I live the wet humid weather often causes disease in the flowers in winter and early spring of the bulbs and the seed pods I grow that are not native so blooming in late spring or early summer as most of them do not only assures that pollinators will be out as you don't see many pollinators when it is raining, but also assures that the seeds won't rot. Many of the flowers in the Brodiaea complex (Dichelostemma, Brodiaea, Triteleia) and even the Calochortus bloom as their leaves have withered, especially in a dry year. I added a picture my husband took of a field of Brodiaea elegans he came across near Auburn, California, in June. You can see it on the wiki Brodiaea page: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Brodiaea The grass it was growing in had already turned brown. Seed is yet to come but pollinators are plentiful. So I think it has to do with survival techniques. They bloom when they have the best chance to have seed be pollinated and survive to grow new plants in the future. There will always be exceptions that don't make a lot of sense, but I suspect generally this will explain the majority of cases. This fits with what John wrote too. Mary Sue From irisman@ameritech.net Sat Jun 17 12:40:16 2006 Message-Id: <001001c6922c$4e597660$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 21 bulbs and bouquets indoors Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 11:37:21 -0500 Well, My first thought about bouquets coming indoors was that it was likely during Neanderthal times just the way it is today when your two year-old sees dandelions for the first time, a whole field of them, picks them with great concentration and glee and brings the limp dangling handful to Mom as the golden gift of the Spring season, who then, finds a way to put them in water--perhaps a turtle shell or an empty ram's horn serving as a vessel. Behold-- the beginnings of floriculture. From voltaire@islandnet.com Sat Jun 17 13:08:03 2006 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: "Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 10:08:00 -0700 > people in my hiking group ..... do not >want to learn the botanical names at all. It seems like a lost cause. Mary Sue, I think perhaps just giving the name of the genus would be less overwhelming to a casual questioner, yet accurate enough to begin with. Often, that will suffice because there may be no other representative of the genus in the region. Here, the big red-barked evergreen trees are called "arbutus" as their common name. No one needs to know that they are really Arbutus menziesii. We have a couple of species of Camassia, but they are both called "camas" as they look the same except under close scrutiny. I was puzzled to find them labelled in a local public garden with a so-called "common name" that is never used here. A garden volunteer had used a name found in a book. Now I can't remember what the silly name was - Indian lily? Indian something, anyway. Of course, it won't take long for your casual inquirers in California to find there are a lot of very dissimilar plants called "calochortus" so they will soon need to discover that two words are needed for the names. -- Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada maritime zone 8 cool mediterranean climate (dry summer, rainy winter - 68 cm annually) sandy soil From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Jun 17 13:28:31 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060617102120.00c44158@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Bulbs and Bouquets Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 10:27:11 -0700 The answer to the question of when flowers were first gathered by humans for ornament is archaeological, and as usual, we know only as far back as there are graphic depictions. These extend back into the early pharaonic period in Egypt, the Minoan culture of Crete, and at least 4000 years ago in China. Much earlier, the discovery of flower material in a Neandertal burial is often adduced as evidence that these early humans possessed what anthropologists call "mental culture," perhaps including death rituals and belief in an afterlife. In the Americas, flower ornament was common in the Mesoamerican culture area, especially among the Nahuatl (Aztecs), to whom we owe, for example, the cultivated dahlia. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA At 10:14 AM 6/17/2006 -0500, you wrote: >Dear Judy; > I agree with Kelly that the answers are more anthropological >than horticultural. Even birds and lower primates are attracted to >bright colors Maybe it is in the genome. I suspect some brightly >colored flowers ended up in a pile in a cave or around a camp fire >with the gathered bulbs and roots for dinner and set aside. From jshields104@insightbb.com Sat Jun 17 13:29:29 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060617131822.026a5c10@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 13:29:39 -0400 Hi all, First, my thanks to Jim W. and to Mary Sue for the nomenclatorial clarifications. I was not willing to stick my oars in the water until we were clear as to what we are actually discussing. I have two Zantedeschia growing outdoors in the ground, but in very protected spots: up agaist the foundations of one of the greenhouses. Z. aethiopica 'Green Goddess' is prospering at the south end of the greenhouse. It is getting bigger each year, blooms early in the spring, and has more bloom stalks every season. Z. 'Black Pearl' is a mass market cultivar with a dark red-brown, almost purple, inflorescence. It is increasing rapidly along the east side of the same greenhouse. It is now up, and should bloom any time now. This same bed, with the two Zantedeschia, also supports a bunch of Crinum bulbispermum and some hybrids. Crinum 'Catherine' has been blooming this week in that bed. I tried several Zantedeschia in the open ground, in my wet bed (gets frequent irrigation in summer but not in winter). None made it. Nor did Calla paludosa, supposedly a hardy native here. I have Iris versicolor and I. virginica in the same bed, and even a couple plants of Arisaema triphyllum stewardsonii. I would like to hear from folks who can grow Zantedeschia outdoors in the ground all year round in USDA zones 7 or colder. I'm convinced that there are out there somewhere some truly hardy Zantedeschia for zone 5, but I just have not come across them yet! Who has them? Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From rarebulbs@cox.net Sat Jun 17 13:36:08 2006 Message-Id: <001201c69234$81b31630$060db146@DJ9SK221> From: "diana chapman" Subject: "Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 10:36:03 -0700 > Now I can't remember what the silly > name was - Indian lily? Indian something, anyway. It was probably Indian potatoes. How that ever came about is anyone's guess, but even some of my Indian friends call the bulbs that were dug for food (Calochortus, Brodiaea and Camassia) Indian potatoes, and you find this term in many books. Of course, the Indians who used these bulbs for food had never set eyes on a potato. Diana Telos From rarebulbs@cox.net Sat Jun 17 13:44:48 2006 Message-Id: <001701c69235$b76b91c0$060db146@DJ9SK221> From: "diana chapman" Subject: notes on word usage Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 10:44:43 -0700 Common names are a pet peeve of mine, so I have to post another comment. In perusing a gardening book, I found Sesbania referred to as "scarlet wisteria tree". Which led me to pose the question, why isn't wisteria called "purple Sesbania vine"? I find it extremely annoying and very confusing to novice gardeners that a completely different genus is used in describing a plant (as in Arum lily - actually this uses TWO different genera). It's difficult, though, when you get ridiculed for using botanical names. One lady, when I used the botanical name for a plant, actually said "my, aren't we hoity-toity". Sigh. Diana Telos From samarak@gizmoworks.com Sat Jun 17 13:58:08 2006 Message-Id: From: Steve Marak Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 12:57:57 -0500 (CDT) On Sat, 17 Jun 2006, J.E. Shields wrote: > I would like to hear from folks who can grow Zantedeschia outdoors in the > ground all year round in USDA zones 7 or colder. I'm convinced that there > are out there somewhere some truly hardy Zantedeschia for zone 5, but I > just have not come across them yet! Who has them? Jim, I've probably worn this topic out (or maybe that was on another list), but I'm in NW Arkansas, nominally USDA zone 6, but with winters ranging from 5 to 7 (last several were 7s, nothing below about 5 F/-15 C). I grow all my Zantedeschias, with 3 exceptions below, outdoors all year, no protection. Several, including "Flame" and a small-flowered cultivar which clearly has a lot of Z. rehmanii in it, have been out there for at least 15 years, which includes the odd -20 F/-29 C night. Some of the newer ones, including "Black Pearl" which went in last year, haven't been through a hard winter yet, but broke dormancy at about the same time as the older ones. I'm doing what you did, plenty of water in summer and none besides what nature provides in winter. Whatever I'm doing right, it's not calculated. I'll be glad to compare growing conditions, or send you some offsets of the long-term survivors here, or seeds in late summer. The exceptions: I can't grow Z. aethiopica outdoors at all, even though it's supposed to be the hardiest, due to the wildly fluctuating spring temperatures here. And I recently acquired two species zants from S. Africa which are unknowns, so I won't risk them outdoors until I have enough to lose a few. Steve -- Steve Marak -- samarak@gizmoworks.com From dkramb@badbear.com Sat Jun 17 14:00:31 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060617134226.01ac1ab8@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Camassia scilloides, Justicia americana, and a few more... Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 14:00:47 -0400 Indulge me for mentioning some non-geophytes, but... This spring during a nature hike I stumbled across a vast patch of Camassia scilloides in bloom, and I just went back to collect some seeds. Sadly I was a little bit late and got a scant few. Still, I'm thrilled to death to have acquired some locally native material to add to my garden. Alongside the banks of a nearby stream are huge colonies of at least 2 kinds of plants. One of them was in bloom and I recognized it as Justicia, probably J. americana. I definitely want to add this to my collection, too! The other plant was not in bloom, but looked just like Justicia americana with darker foliage, and was growing in deeper water. I really don't know what it is, but I plan to find out. Oh, and another plant growing alongside the stream was Silphium perfoliatum. This is a huge pest in my yard! I planted it 5 years ago, allowed it to spread freely, and now I'm constantly pulling seedlings out of EVERY flower bed in my entire yard. (And I have a big yard.) At any rate, it brought a smile to my face to see it growing in the wild where it belongs. I wonder if the deer find it tasty? It seemed very well behaved, so something is certainly keeping it in check. Oh, and I also got seeds of Tradescantia, probably T. subaspera var. montana, in the woods too. :-) Dennis in Cincinnati (who loves late spring in Ohio) From jamievande@freenet.de Sat Jun 17 14:18:49 2006 Message-Id: <44944780.9090401@freenet.de> From: "Jamie V." Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 20:18:40 +0200 From dells@voicenet.com Sat Jun 17 14:37:00 2006 Message-Id: <20060617183700.5AFC64C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: "Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 14:37:26 -0400 I am amused when people ask me the names of some of the things I grow. Most of them, in fact, have no common names that are known to me, and I only know the scientific name. For the South African ones, I say, "Oh, I guess it has a common name in Swahili (substitute whatever language is appropriate) or Afrikaans, but I don't know those languages." Unfortunately, that usually stops the questions dead in their tracks. Dell -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 12:04 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] "Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Dear Jim, Your note about using botanical names made me smile. I usually use both when people in my hiking group ask me a question as most of them do not want to learn the botanical names at all. It seems like a lost cause. I also have trouble with the use of the word lily. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Sat Jun 17 14:44:19 2006 Message-Id: <7A696F92-8E7A-4F12-9CB0-90479CFE29E0@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Pacific BX 120 Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 11:44:17 -0700 Dell, Could you please send the following? Thanks, --Lee >> From Rogan Roth: > > 1. Seed of Cyrtanthus contractus > >> From Alberto Grossi: > > SEEDS: > > 3. Hermodactylus tuberosa From jshields@indy.net Sat Jun 17 16:26:23 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060617161108.026c0ac8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 16:26:35 -0400 Steve, I would indeed like to trade offsets/corms/tubers sometime. Spontaneous seed on the outdoor plants would also be great. Does anyone besides Steve have some outdoor hardy Zantedeschia in their cold garden? I have 'Black Forest' which I am not yet ready tom test outdoors. It is darker than 'Black Pearl'. I raised a few Z. jucunda from seeds, and will try some of them outdoors near the greenhouse once they have made some offsets. I got several Z. pentlandii corms or tubers several years ago, and I paid a ridiculously high price for them! The first of these is blooming right now, and it is a lovely, large, well opened thing, golden yellow. I think they are now producing Z. pentlandii by tissue culture, so the commercial ones are probably all just a single clone. I have Z. albomaculata ex hort and ex seeds collected by Rod and Rachel Saunders. The wild collected seedling has a better flower than the garden plants. I'm lacking Z. rehmannii; I think I left a tray of seedlings outdoors too late one autumn. Anyone have seeds of Z. rehmannii? I think I should try some of the garden Z. albomaculata outdoors next spring. Since there are so many Zantedeschia cultivars available now, and they are beginning to be somewhat less expensive, we ought to just buy masses of them, plant everything in the garden, and a few years later lift and trade the survivors. Maybe I'll remember that early next spring..... I should have small offsets of Z. pentlandii to trade this autumn. I may have one or two offsets of Z. jucunda then too. Let's trade! Jim Shields At 12:57 PM 6/17/2006 -0500, you wrote: >On Sat, 17 Jun 2006, J.E. Shields wrote: > > > I would like to hear from folks who can grow Zantedeschia outdoors in the > > ground all year round in USDA zones 7 or colder. I'm convinced that there > > are out there somewhere some truly hardy Zantedeschia for zone 5, but I > > just have not come across them yet! Who has them? > >Jim, I've probably worn this topic out (or maybe that was on another >list), but >I'm in NW Arkansas, nominally USDA zone 6, but with winters ranging from 5 to >7 (last several were 7s, nothing below about 5 F/-15 C). > >I grow all my Zantedeschias, with 3 exceptions below, outdoors all year, no >protection. Several, including "Flame" and a small-flowered cultivar which >clearly has a lot of Z. rehmanii in it, have been out there for at least 15 >years, which includes the odd -20 F/-29 C night. Some of the newer ones, >including "Black Pearl" which went in last year, haven't been through a hard >winter yet, but broke dormancy at about the same time as the older ones. > >I'm doing what you did, plenty of water in summer and none besides what nature >provides in winter. Whatever I'm doing right, it's not calculated. I'll be >glad >to compare growing conditions, or send you some offsets of the long-term >survivors here, or seeds in late summer. > >The exceptions: I can't grow Z. aethiopica outdoors at all, even though it's >supposed to be the hardiest, due to the wildly fluctuating spring >temperatures >here. And I recently acquired two species zants from S. Africa which are >unknowns, so I won't risk them outdoors until I have enough to lose a few. > >Steve > >-- Steve Marak >-- samarak@gizmoworks.com >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat Jun 17 17:41:58 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 15:37:55 -0500 Dear all; I am sure I have babbled about my Zantedeschia trials in Zone 5 KC. 'Green Goddess' has been a no brainer for years until I finally yanked it all as too ugly. Mostly green flowers are just not my favorites. A. albmaculata grew right against a mid-town sidewalk for years, bloomed and multiplied until I moved out. I am a bit ashamed to admit I haven't grown any of the more colorful Calla cv (there I said it!) until this year. I have 4 mixed tubers from a box store that I'll eventually plant out and see what makes it. I especially like the various 'Calla-fornia' mix and some of the named one look really good like 'Cameo', 'Black Eyed Beauty' and 'Mango'. These look great. I have routinely killed Z. aethiopica. It hasn't even wintered well in a cool greenhouse. There are quite a few named cvs in a range of sizes. Many are rated to Zone 6 and I should try some others here in Z 5. Best Jim W. ps to Jim S. I think you mean Calla palustris which really does better further north. We are on the edge and it suffers in summer here. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat Jun 17 17:58:24 2006 Message-Id: <000301c69259$26618df0$af002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: "Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 17:58:20 -0400 I think a big part of the blame for this ambiguity lies with the medium, not the message. What I mean is this: plain text does not support italics. With italics one can easily distinguish between a vernacular name such as calla (and note the lower case initial c) and a generic name such as Calla (which should be italicized and with a capitalized initial C). Those of us with an extensive familiarity with botanical names are often tempted to coordinate vernacular names and botanical names. I say leave the vernacular names alone. If the vernacular name for Zantedeschia in your group is "pig lily", so be it. No one will mistake it for a pig, and those of us with an interest in plants won't mistake it for a lily. I've never heard a call for changing those botanical names which commit the same sin: should we have to change the name Liriodendron just because the tree is magnoliaceous and not liliaceous? To those people who get up-tight about these "misleading" names, to those who want to police the plant name lists and eliminate or change all names which suggest relationship other than the currently received orthodoxy, I say loosen up, get a life, and learn to appreciate the beauty and interest metaphor brings to the language. Botany and horticulture don't "own" the meaning of the word lily. I made reference to the currently received orthodoxy above deliberately. The plants we now call Zantedeschia have been placed in the genera Arum and Calla in the past. Those who still use those names presumably don't know that the latest and greatest is now Zantedeschia. Are those of you who think you are so superior because you don't call Zantedeschia an arum or a calla ready to take the test if someone shows up unannounced with samples of the newly reclassified themidaceous plants to test your knowledge? I'll bet most of us would wimp out and call most of them Brodiaea. For Mary Sue and the rest of the Californians, we'll substitute something else - but you get the idea. Instead of fussing about trivial vernacular names, learn to pronounce Zantedeschia correctly: the z should have a ts sound and the ch should have a k sound. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I've just come back from classifying the local lily show and I'm happy to say no one showed up this year with calla lilies, arum lilies, pig lilies, Peruvian lilies, crinum lilies, canna lilies, blood lilies, leper lilies, stink lilies, lilies of the valley, fairy lilies, lily of the Nile, Jacobean lilies, lilies of the field, Atamasco lilies... Years ago a friend with a keen interest in gardening was touring my garden. He paused at a small-flowered Clematis and stood there as if trying to decide what it was. I asked him "Do you know what it is?" Now, when I asked that question, I meant it as shorthand for "Do you know what species of Clematis that is?" But his answer demonstrated that we were not even in the same ball park: he thought it was a fritillary. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 11:24 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] "Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Dear all; I noticed these topics recently and was slightly put off by their inaccuracy and I don't think any one noted that neither Callas (Genus Zantedeschia) or Arum (Genus Zantedeschia) are actually lilies. Both of these common names refer to plants NOT in the lily family or closely related. The names Arum and Calla actually refer to genera by those name and not the Genus under discussion. The common names can refer to other plants, too. The genus Calla is a small genus of northern marshy aroids, while the genus Arum is larger in number of species and distribution. Neither overlaps with Zantedeschia. Likewise 'Canna Lilies' are not true lilies, but more correctly called just 'Canna'. Just as peony roses are not roses. If this list is to have educational value these crucial differences should be made clear. So this note is not a chastisement, but for clarity and better understanding of where these things all fit into a bigger picture. We have often grumbled about the peculiar nature of common names especially regional ones. Hope this helps. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Jun 17 18:38:24 2006 Message-Id: <001801c6925e$be881bd0$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: More on Iris missouriensis Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 17:38:16 -0500 Hi Gang, Someone wrote that I. missouriensis has rhizomes (not bulbs), and of course they are correct. I looked back at my field notes and find that I wrote "plants clumping and close, maybe bulbs or rhizomes." I guess I have to learn to consult my notes before I write from memory to the PBS. Also, maybe I should be a bit more vigourous when I dig around the edges of clumps of plants. I sort of guessed at things that day and can see from my notes that I didn't really know if it was bulbs or rhizomes. I have to agree with Jim W. who wrote "If this list is to have educational value these crucial differences should be made clear." Cordially, Joe From totototo@telus.net Sat Jun 17 21:19:35 2006 Message-Id: <20060618011934.C3CALF9LX3@priv-edmwaa06.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: notes on word usage Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 18:14:31 -0700 On 17 Jun 06, at 10:44, diana chapman wrote: > ...It's difficult, though, when you get ridiculed for using > botanical names. One lady, when I used the botanical name for a > plant, actually said "my, aren't we hoity-toity". Sigh. Not "sigh." Try "No, just not proud of ignorance." -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Sat Jun 17 21:36:58 2006 Message-Id: <002101c69277$ae483890$24758b90@angelaepdzuk5j> From: "angela offer" Subject: "Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 09:36:52 +0800 The pretty small llilies callas ie hotshot, majestic red etc, are theses true callas or Zantedescia? Info would be very apprediciated- and where do the plants originate? Angela ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Waddick" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 11:24 PM Subject: [pbs] "Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage > Dear all; > I noticed these topics recently and was slightly put off by > their inaccuracy and I don't think any one noted that neither Callas > (Genus Zantedeschia) or Arum (Genus Zantedeschia) are actually > lilies. Both of these common names refer to plants NOT in the lily > family or closely related. The names Arum and Calla actually refer to > genera by those name and not the Genus under discussion. The common > names can refer to other plants, too. > > The genus Calla is a small genus of northern marshy aroids, > while the genus Arum is larger in number of species and > distribution. Neither overlaps with Zantedeschia. > > Likewise 'Canna Lilies' are not true lilies, but more > correctly called just 'Canna'. Just as peony roses are not roses. > > If this list is to have educational value these crucial > differences should be made clear. So this note is not a chastisement, > but for clarity and better understanding of where these things all > fit into a bigger picture. We have often grumbled about the peculiar > nature of common names especially regional ones. > > Hope this helps. > > Best Jim W. > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From doji@hawaii.rr.com Sat Jun 17 21:52:09 2006 Message-Id: <000c01c69279$ca567680$f5fe8248@dell1> From: "Gary" Subject: "Lilies" Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 15:52:00 -1000 Jim McKenney, You forgot to mention Rothchild's lily, Gloriosa superba. Gary From dells@voicenet.com Sun Jun 18 07:35:49 2006 Message-Id: <20060618113549.59C1B4C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX 120 Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 07:36:14 -0400 I have received your order. Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, Director, PBS BX -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Lee Poulsen Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 2:44 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific BX 120 Dell, Could you please send the following? Thanks, --Lee >> From Rogan Roth: > > 1. Seed of Cyrtanthus contractus > >> From Alberto Grossi: > > SEEDS: > > 3. Hermodactylus tuberosa _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From SheriAnnRicherson@exoticgardening.com Sun Jun 18 09:24:25 2006 Message-Id: <108d01c692da$8518aaf0$6401a8c0@sheri> From: "Sheri Ann Richerson" Subject: Zantedeschia - African Bulbs Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 09:24:24 -0400 Hi, I too am interested in growing some of these outdoors year round in zone 5. I am also interested in other bulbs that would over winter outside here. I have all of the common ones and just purchased several gingers, an agapanthus and have two of the Crinium Jumbo. What I am interested in is the more tropical bulbs, ones from Africa, etc. What have the rest of you in colder zones had success with? I do not mind mulching if need be. Thanks, Sheri From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sun Jun 18 16:55:23 2006 Message-Id: <003601c69319$862dc5d0$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Burgundy Hybrids Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 15:55:23 -0500 Hi Gang, I have not been keeping up with my Crinum Web site, but not for lack of trying. You all know how hobbies go; too much interest and not enough time. However, recently, I visited Marcelle and got new photos of her seedlings from Crinum x 'Burgundy'. This plant has produced some amazing progeny over time. Marcelle has identified 4 in years past that had the garden qualities she wanted. Though they have similar colors, they are different from each other. For instance, Burgundy No. 2 has pendant flowers with recurving tips, reminescent of Crinum x 'White Queen'. Burgundy No. 3 produces very large flowers, with 6 inch floral tubes and 6 1/2 inch petals. The Burgundy hybrids are pink, but they are better than pink. They have a bit of salmon in them, they remind me of Crinum x 'Bradley' that way, but they also remind me a bit of pale Crinum x 'Claude Davis'. This year Marcelle has found a possible new "keeper." She's calling it Burgundy No. 5; most of these plants have not been named, but she has named Burgundy No. 1 'Lady Chameleon' because it sometimes produces petals with white streaks. Marcelle is increasing all 5 of the plants with the goal of distributing them when she has enough bulbs; they do produce offsets. Anyway, while I haven't put all the info on the Web site, I did put unedited images online. They are very large files 1.5 to nearly 4.0 Mb--so they can be slow to download and view. If you want to see them, they are sorted by folders (burgundy 1, burgundy 2, etc.), with various photos of each plant in the folders. If you only have time to see one photo, check out the photo of Burgundy No. 3 at: LINK: Burgundy No. 3 http://www.opuntiads.com/photos/burgundy%20seedlings/burgundy%203/burg%203d.jpg All the images can be found at: LINK: Images of Burgundy Hybrids http://www.opuntiads.com/photos/burgundy%20seedlings/ NOTE: The colors are not exactly correct on these photos; I have not done the color balance to account for the super sunny day when the photos were taken. They are a very pleasant pink or pale salmon-pink; they are not purplish and have no bubblegum pink in them. The link below that shows some mixed seedlings, seems to show the colors best: LINK: Mixed Burgundy Seedlings Growing Together (Burg No 1, Burg No 2, and Burg No 3). http://www.opuntiads.com/photos/burgundy%20seedlings/mixed%20burgundy%20seedlings/mixed%20burgundy%20seedlings%202.JPG Cordially, Joe Hot and humid today (must be 95 F), rain last night, Amarcrinum still blooming happily, Ellen Bosanquet starting as is Lorraine Clark and Rose Parade. From barryandjac@bigpond.com Sun Jun 18 21:45:44 2006 Message-Id: <001701c69342$10a43780$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: [pbs ] Calla Lilies/Arum Lilies Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 09:45:37 +0800 Hi Angela, Thanks for the info. Would love some Zantedeschia 'Green Goddess'. I don't have the pink Marshmallow variety but someone in the Aust. Bulb Society at the last meeting mentioned that they had some and also some of the new black variety. I am gradually getting back a collection of Zantedeschias. Slow process rebuilding a plant collection! Regards Jacinda > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From barryandjac@bigpond.com Sun Jun 18 22:41:03 2006 Message-Id: <003f01c69349$c9ae5920$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: "Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 10:40:54 +0800 Hi Jim and all, Thanks for all the nomenclature info. Had a big laugh over your humorous review of the Lily show! As a novice grower and collector I have experienced first hand confusion over info. when asking questions about plant names. Even from books and magazines! From country to country names differ also and it is great to find out the proper names of plants worldwide (although I must confess I generally use the common names as other people tend to recognize them more easily). Next time I get stuck I know where to go to get the correct info! Still only learning and finding info. more fascinating every day. Regards Jacinda Wilson, Perth West. Australia P.S. I don't mind if anyone corrects me as I am keen to learn and expand my knowledge. Just please excuse any questions that may appear to be really silly! From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Mon Jun 19 00:29:29 2006 Message-Id: <001701c69358$f4375570$765e1b56@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 05:29:27 +0100 In view of the appparently abject failure of Zantedeschia aethiopica to perform in Mid-West gardens, has any thought been given to provenance? The species is very widespread in South Africa, from the Cape of Good Hope itself in coastal fynbos to the marshes of the Drakensberg. It has always seemed to me that it gained its reputation for tenderness in Europe because winter-growing Cape material was the first to be grown, whereas if it had been of Drakensberg(summer-rainfall) origin the story might have been very different. I wonder if the hardy clone 'Crowborough' is not one of these mountain plants. The fact that 'Green Goddess' grows in some places proves that there are clones of the species that can tolerate the climate - seek and ye shall find (one hopes). Another form that I have found remarkably hardy is 'Marshmallow' ('Kiwi Blush') which survbives and flourishes in open wet ground in Holland. In the UK at present it is difficult to judge because almost all clones survive outside. Plants grown from seeds collected on the Sani Pass (lower end!) are extremely vigorous here and a crop of seedlings is appearing around them this year. I will collect this year's seed. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk From eez55@earthlink.net Mon Jun 19 00:30:47 2006 Message-Id: <410-22006611944114770@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 00:41:14 -0400 Hmmm...all this talk about Calla Lilies makes me want to start calling them Richardia. Several people have mentioned lack of success growing Z. aethiopica in non Mediterranean climates. I tried that too, unsuccessfully of course, when I was living in Pennsylvania. I suspect that the Z. aethiopica we grow came from the western Cape region of South Africa, and is accustomed to mild, rainy winters. In her invaluable book, A Field Guide to Wild Flowers of KwaZulu-Natal and the Eastern Region, Elsa Pooley notes that Z. aethiopica grows there (a summer rainfall region of South Africa), up to 2250 meter elevation. She also writes, "Popular garden plant and cut-flower, tolerates snow." Eugene Zielinski Augusta, Georgia From jamievande@freenet.de Mon Jun 19 02:09:40 2006 Message-Id: <44963F9A.8080603@freenet.de> From: "Jamie V." Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 08:09:30 +0200 John, although I agree that provenance is important, I have found that the same clone of Z. aethiopica will survive in my pond, but not in my garden! Apparently, under the water it is assured a constant rest during the Winter. I believe the repeated freeze-thaw of my typical Cologne Winter simply breaks the dormancy of the plant in the garden and the next frost weakens it until it finally succumbs. All of the Zantedeschia I have grown, mainly cultivars from the garden centre, have faired well in the garden and their ancestors apparently come from dryer areas, while Z. aethiopica seems to be quite aquatic in nature. Again, this may be a question of provenance. These garden centre cultivar do not appreciate wet Winters, however, and often suffer. I have since learned to plant them in sandy clay. Also, 'Green Goddess' does not survive for me in or out of water! Ciao, Jamie V. Cologne John Grimshaw schrieb: >In view of the appparently abject failure of Zantedeschia aethiopica to >perform in Mid-West gardens, has any thought been given to provenance? The >species is very widespread in South Africa, from the Cape of Good Hope >itself in coastal fynbos to the marshes of the Drakensberg. It has always >seemed to me that it gained its reputation for tenderness in Europe because >winter-growing Cape material was the first to be grown, whereas if it had >been of Drakensberg(summer-rainfall) origin the story might have been very >different. I wonder if the hardy clone 'Crowborough' is not one of these >mountain plants. The fact that 'Green Goddess' grows in some places proves >that there are clones of the species that can tolerate the climate - seek >and ye shall find (one hopes). Another form that I have found remarkably >hardy is 'Marshmallow' ('Kiwi Blush') which survbives and flourishes in open >wet ground in Holland. In the UK at present it is difficult to judge because >almost all clones survive outside. Plants grown from seeds collected on the >Sani Pass (lower end!) are extremely vigorous here and a crop of seedlings >is appearing around them this year. I will collect this year's seed. > >John Grimshaw > > > >Dr John M. Grimshaw >Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens > >Sycamore Cottage >Colesbourne >Nr Cheltenham >Gloucestershire GL53 9NP > > >Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > From jimmckenney@starpower.net Mon Jun 19 07:47:12 2006 Message-Id: <000601c69396$1ab6e890$a5002c42@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 07:47:11 -0400 Typical commercial Zantedeschia aethiopica has not been a success outside here in Maryland, either. Nor have plants received as 'Crowborough'. I've tried the pond method which Jamie mentions: that has not worked here, either. 'Green Goddess' has not yet been tried. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA where the local ecological aroid equivalent of Zantedeschia aethiopica, Peltandra virginica, is now in bloom. From jshields@indy.net Mon Jun 19 09:47:29 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060619080738.026a3918@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Calla Lilies" -"Arum Lilies" - notes on word usage Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 09:47:44 -0400 I had some Zantedeschia aethiopica grown from seed collected in the Amatola mountains of the Eastern Cape Province of South Africa. I left the flat out too late one autumn, and lost them all. One should try to get stock from varied habitats, but don't rush to expose the seedlings to cold weather before they are mature. It is too easy to kill the small plants, even if the mature ones are hardy. We really ought to try to get some more of those Amatola seeds. Cameron and Rhoda, are you still out there? I have some seedlings, bloom size or near to, of Z. aethiopica with a pink cast to the flowers. I can't recall where they originated, but the old Croft Wild Bulb Nursery was also the source of these. I've killed a lot of plants, trying to find varieties that were hardy here in Indiana. I'm still trying. Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 12:41 AM 6/19/2006 -0400, you wrote: >Hmmm...all this talk about Calla Lilies makes me want to start calling them >Richardia. >Several people have mentioned lack of success growing Z. aethiopica in non >Mediterranean climates. I tried that too, unsuccessfully of course, when I >was living in Pennsylvania. I suspect that the Z. aethiopica we grow came >from the western Cape region of South Africa, and is accustomed to mild, >rainy winters. >In her invaluable book, A Field Guide to Wild Flowers of KwaZulu-Natal and >the Eastern Region, Elsa Pooley notes that Z. aethiopica grows there (a >summer rainfall region of South Africa), up to 2250 meter elevation. She >also writes, "Popular garden plant and cut-flower, tolerates snow." > >Eugene Zielinski >Augusta, Georgia > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From africanbulbs@haznet.co.za Tue Jun 20 07:33:32 2006 Message-Id: <012501c6945d$5b1cc7c0$8c3fd0c4@MECER> From: "African Bulbs" Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 12:58:59 +0200 Jim Yes, we're still here, lurking! We can get more of the Amatola Z. aethiopica seeds when Cameron goes there again in late September. I have seen this species growing in many different hab.tats and elevations in South Africa. We still have seeds (fresh!) of the 'Marshmallow' variety that you got from us when we traded under the 'Croft' name (which we had to give up when we sold the property). I will send some to the PBX. Jim wrote: From: James Waddick Subject: Aril Society International Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 08:50:53 -0500 Dear all; It has been a few days since I mentioned the Aril Iris Society home page and plant sale. No one has responded. I know some of this group grow these plants. I am not talking to them, but to the members who don't know these iris. Please take a look at the Society home page at: http://www.arilsociety.org/arilsociety.pl?index . If you are not familiar with these, the pictures should be very interesting. These are not the old tall bearded iris. I am a member of the society, but have no special agenda in plugging them except that they are worth growing and the current sale is a good reminder of how important it is to support specialty societies of all sorts. Please take a look and let th others of us know what you think. Thanks Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From samarak@gizmoworks.com Tue Jun 20 12:35:25 2006 Message-Id: From: Steve Marak Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 10:44:11 -0500 (CDT) I'm very interested in trying some different strains of Z. aethiopica. I've tried it outdoors here in NW Arkansas several times, with plants from several sources - though I've no idea how different they really were as far as original provenance - and of course failed miserably each time. Here the problem seems to be our wildly fluctuating winter and spring temperatures, just as Jamie describes. Z. aethiopica repeatedly starts into growth too early, gets zapped when we have a hard frost, and after some number of cycles just fades away. All the others stay safely underground until well past the danger of any frost and so do well. I've not tried it in a very wet situation, despite all those pictures I've seen of it in habitat standing in water. It's an interesting idea. What depth of water will Z. aethiopica tolerate? Steve On Mon, 19 Jun 2006, Jamie V. wrote: > John, > > although I agree that provenance is important, I have found that the > same clone of Z. aethiopica will survive in my pond, but not in my > garden! Apparently, under the water it is assured a constant rest > during the Winter. I believe the repeated freeze-thaw of my typical > Cologne Winter simply breaks the dormancy of the plant in the garden and > the next frost weakens it until it finally succumbs. > ... > > Ciao, > > Jamie V. > Cologne > > John Grimshaw schrieb: > > >In view of the appparently abject failure of Zantedeschia aethiopica to > >perform in Mid-West gardens, has any thought been given to provenance? The > >species is very widespread in South Africa, from the Cape of Good Hope > > ... -- Steve Marak -- samarak@gizmoworks.com From irisman@ameritech.net Tue Jun 20 12:50:39 2006 Message-Id: <001901c69489$621101f0$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 25 Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:48:39 -0500 I can only endorse Jim Waddick's plug for the Aril Society International . I've been a member since 1959 and am currently on the board of directors. Check out the illustrated website. It's the least expensive of all the plant groups I know of. (If that's a consideration for any of you.) $21 for 3 years. Rarely species. Almost all of those are endangered, under pressure, protected, or extinct., and rarely available even as seed. Most of the hybrids (difficult enough to grow) are the result of amateur hybridizing over the past 60 years , but some hybridizing occurred as early as the 19th century or before. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 11:00 AM Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 25 > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post: <mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > List-Archive: <http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist> > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Zantedeschia (African Bulbs) > 2. Aril Society International (James Waddick) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 12:58:59 +0200 > From: "African Bulbs" > Subject: [pbs] Zantedeschia > To: > Message-ID: <012501c6945d$5b1cc7c0$8c3fd0c4@MECER> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Jim > Yes, we're still here, lurking! We can get more of the Amatola Z. > aethiopica seeds when Cameron goes there again in late September. I have > seen this species growing in many different hab.tats and elevations in > South Africa. > We still have seeds (fresh!) of the 'Marshmallow' variety that you got > from us when we traded under the 'Croft' name (which we had to give up > when we sold the property). I will send some to the PBX. > > Jim wrote: > > pink > > Rhoda > in a rather 'hot' Napier - 25C today, a deluge must be approaching. > Website: www.africanbulbs.com > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 08:50:53 -0500 > From: James Waddick > Subject: [pbs] Aril Society International > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" > > Dear all; > It has been a few days since I mentioned the Aril Iris > Society home page and plant sale. No one has responded. I know some > of this group grow these plants. I am not talking to them, but to the > members who don't know these iris. Please take a look at the Society > home page at: http://www.arilsociety.org/arilsociety.pl?index . > > If you are not familiar with these, the pictures should be > very interesting. These are not the old tall bearded iris. > > I am a member of the society, but have no special agenda in > plugging them except that they are worth growing and the current sale > is a good reminder of how important it is to support specialty > societies of all sorts. > > Please take a look and let th others of us know what you > think. Thanks Jim W. > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 41, Issue 25 > *********************************** > From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue Jun 20 13:05:43 2006 Message-Id: <7dffe4c505a838a6d2c1037539ab61cf@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Aril Society International Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 10:05:37 -0700 On Jun 20, 2006, at 9:48 AM, Adam Fikso wrote: > Rarely species. Almost all of those are endangered, under pressure, > protected, or extinct., and rarely available even as seed. Most of > the > hybrids (difficult enough to grow) > ----- Original Message ----- >> From: James Waddick >> >> If you are not familiar with these, the pictures should be >> very interesting. These are not the old tall bearded iris. >> >> I've been intrigued by these since I first learned about them because of living in Southern Calif., but have never taken the plunge. (Partly due to the warnings, like Adam's above, about the difficulty of growing them, but mostly due to the feeling that I've already taken on too many kinds of plants and I have to draw the line somewhere...) However, I have two questions: 1. Are they, even the species, any easier to grow in climates like those in California? 2. Excuse my complete ignorance, but how are Arils different than--or the same as--Junos? --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Jun 20 14:35:39 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 13:15:21 -0500 Dear Steve M (and Ken M) and all; Having been putting in a plug for the Aril Irises lately, I should add one for the International Aroid Society. They have an excellent web presence too and include a page devoted to Hardy Aroids. This page ( http://www.aroid.org/horticulture/hardy.html ) includes this info on our topic Zantedeschia - 8 spp. Zantedeschia aethiopica and cvs.(Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) 0F Zantedeschia albomaculata (Zone 5b Kansas City, MO) -10F Zantedeschia elliottiana (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC)9F Zantedeschia pentlandii (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) 9F Zantedeschia rehmannii (Zone 6 Springdale, AR) 5F Zantedeschia 'Black Eyed Beauty' (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) Zantedeschia 'Cameo' (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) Zantedeschia 'Flame' (Zone 6 Springdale, AR) 5F Zantedeschia 'Crystal Blush' (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) Zantedeschia 'Crystal Glow' (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) Zantedeschia 'Galaxy' (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) Zantedeschia 'Hybrid Yellow' (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) Zantedeschia 'Midnight Eclipse' (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) Zantedeschia 'Pink Pacific' (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) Zantedeschia 'Pink Persuasion' (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) Zantedeschia 'Pot of Gold' (Zone 7a Raleigh, NC) I bet the data from Kansas City and Springdale comes from Steve and me, while Raleigh info is from Tony Avent. Anyone had data to add to the list? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Tue Jun 20 14:18:10 2006 Message-Id: <20060620181808.91738.qmail@web33902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: Aril Society International Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:18:08 -0700 (PDT) Come on Lee you got plenty of spaces in your yard to add irises! How are you doing? I enjoy my new job and am awaiting a new supervisor and hope he/she is good to work for. The hippeastrums are doing much better in the greenhouses here in Texas. We are still getting some rain which is good for some farmers. Texas is not as vacation friendly as California but I'll adjust and am anxious to get a house and stop renting! take care, Jim. I've been intrigued by these since I first learned about them because of living in Southern Calif., but have never taken the plunge. (Partly due to the warnings, like Adam's above, about the difficulty of growing them, but mostly due to the feeling that I've already taken on too many kinds of plants and I have to draw the line somewhere...) --------------------------------- Ring'em or ping'em. Make PC-to-phone calls as low as 1¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Tue Jun 20 14:19:29 2006 Message-Id: <20060620181929.95731.qmail@web33911.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: oops Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:19:29 -0700 (PDT) This message was intended for Lee Poulsen. James Frelichowski wrote: Come on Lee you got plenty of spaces in your yard to add irises! How are you doing? I enjoy my new job and am awaiting a new supervisor and hope he/she is good to work for. The hippeastrums are doing much better in the greenhouses here in Texas. We are still getting some rain which is good for some farmers. Texas is not as vacation friendly as California but I'll adjust and am anxious to get a house and stop renting! take care, Jim. I've been intrigued by these since I first learned about them because of living in Southern Calif., but have never taken the plunge. (Partly due to the warnings, like Adam's above, about the difficulty of growing them, but mostly due to the feeling that I've already taken on too many kinds of plants and I have to draw the line somewhere...) --------------------------------- Ring'em or ping'em. Make PC-to-phone calls as low as 1¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta. From msittner@mcn.org Tue Jun 20 14:28:41 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060620112604.03a604e8@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: IBSA Symposium Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:28:20 -0700 I just got a notice from IBSA about their August symposium and see that these are potential speakers. It sounds like people who want to go need to get their money in very soon. John Manning - Pollinators, Bob Werra - Moraeas, Andy Hackland Tissue Culture of Zantedeschias, David Victor Growing Bulbs in the UK, Gordon Summerfield Growing Winter Rainfall Bulbs, Eric Harley - DNA and Robyn McKenzie Eucomis breeding. Mary Sue From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Jun 20 14:35:41 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Aril Society International Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 13:35:17 -0500 Dear Lee and all others who have concerns: >1. Are they, even the species, any easier to grow in climates like >those in California? 1. They should be considerably easier in S. CA than here in the midwest. They prefer cool to cold winter and hot dry summers. S\Winter and spring wet is OK, but dry otherwise. If kept sufficiently dry in summer they are fine. Some growers cover them with glass or dig them i summer and hang them dry in a shady spot. Mine grow outdoors all year and those that survive - most - do fine. They get some snow cover in winter and an occasional summer shower. >2. Excuse my complete ignorance, but how are Arils different than--or >the same as--Junos? 2. Yes you get the complete ignorance award. I am surprised !, but I will be kind. The genus iris has 6 major divisions. The best known are the bearded iris- all kinds including garden /German/tall bearded etc. All other iris are beardless or bulbous (or both) including the Junos. Arils (rhizomateous) are very different from Junos (bulbous) except I grow mine in the same bed. Bearded iris consist of 6 divisions. All have seeds with arils except for garden/tall bearded types. These Arillate types are: Oncocyclus, Regelia, Pseudoregelia, Psammiris and Hexapogons. The first two groups are most commonly grown, but the species are generally a bit trickier except in a drier (Mediterranean) climates such as yours. They can in general be crossed with tall bearded iris and the resulting hybrids--"aril-breds' -- show the best of both: exotic aril iris flowers, forms, colors, patterns and tall bearded easier to grow, hardier, etc. These hybrids can be 50/50 and be totally intermediate; 25/75 in either direction or show other combination. The more 'aril', the closer they resemble the aril parents and may be harder to grow. Not always. Take a look at the web site. I grow a dozen-15 named aril bred hybrids - all showing their the deep dark aril spot on the fall or the heavily veined, smoky patterns. I grow a few species among the easiest here are I stolonifera, and I. hoogiana. There are also some lovely old Dutch hybrids that the Dutch still offer in their fall catalogs. Trust me, Lee, you and other S. CA should find these 'easy' and intriguing. Here's a couple of my easy favorites: 'Lancer' 'Syrian Moon' 'Desert Fury' 'Oyez' 'Kalifa's Robe' 'Syrian Princess' These names come immediately to mind without going out and looking at labels. Do try some. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From john@floralarchitecture.com Tue Jun 20 17:18:29 2006 Message-Id: <20060620211828.43982.qmail@web36207.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: Eucrosia biflora Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 14:18:28 -0700 (PDT) Are Eucrosia self fertile? I have one bulb just finishing but two others that should open simultaneously and I was hoping 2 B able to get some seed set from them to increase my collection. I've pollinated the single stem with it's own pollen. Time will tell Since all my plants were from the same supplier, I am not sure if they are offsets, seedlings or from cuttage of the same bulb. Are seedlings from the same parent considered different enough for plants that require seperate clones to produce seeds?? Oh, and one other question, why are they called biflora when 5 flowers are on the stem?? John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From daffodil@xnet.co.nz Tue Jun 20 18:06:31 2006 Message-Id: <008a01c694b5$c556a860$0200a8c0@Dads> From: "Bill Dijk" Subject: change of email address Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 10:05:40 +1200 Please note the change of email address from daffodil@wave.co.nz to daffodil@xnet.co.nz as from today. Thank you. Bill Dijk Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. From dkramb@badbear.com Tue Jun 20 18:54:49 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060620185347.01f32db0@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Aril Society International Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 18:54:52 -0400 >I am a member of the society, but have no special agenda in >plugging them except that they are worth growing and the current sale Hehehe... and I'm the ASI web master! Their site is the best web site ever in the entire history of the internet, if ya ask me. LOL. Dennis in Cincinnati (who hybridizes arilbreds, too) From dkramb@badbear.com Tue Jun 20 18:58:25 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060620185657.01f3bb70@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Aril Society International Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 18:58:33 -0400 > Trust me, Lee, you and other S. CA should find these 'easy' >and intriguing. Here's a couple of my easy favorites: I second that. Just take a meander through the photo gallery on the ASI website, but be sure to have a pillow handy so your jaw doesn't get injured when it falls to the floor. Some of them are incredibly, bizarrely, beautiful. Dennis in Cincy From jshaw@opuntiads.com Tue Jun 20 21:01:13 2006 Message-Id: <000c01c694ce$33f73290$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: One Size (or Condition) Does Not Fit All Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 20:01:15 -0500 Hi Gang, I have a strategy I use for plants from Africa, Asia, and other continents that come from seasonal wetlands, and which can take some mild frosts (20-25 F for a few hours). I call it the "average seasonal wetland plant growth strategy." I plant such plants in good soil in big pots, 3- or 5-gallon nursery containers or larger, and I water them twice a week in hot summer weather and less often in wetter or cooler times. Such plants are often some of the few things from mostly Mediterranean climates that will grow here in the greater Houston area. They survive (I surmise) because they are riverine or seasonal wetland plants and adapted to humidity and wetness, but many of them are great survivors of seasonal drought too. Alternating periods of wetness and drought is the case for the Gulf Coast of Texas. We have months of too much rain, and then months of not enough rain. Anyway, I've been growing Crinum variabile seedlings for several years. They have muddled along and done OK. But, last Fall I put several bulbs in pots and set them out in the low part of my yard where they often get a few inches of water for weeks on end (2-3 seedlings per 3-gallon pot). I also kept a few pots of C. variabile in my "typical conditions" for seasonal wetland plants from not-too-cold areas-conditions where the plants get irrigation but not flooding waters. I have been very pleasantly surprised to find that the C. variabile plants in flooded areas have grown a lot, producing much top growth. The species doesn't seem to create large bulbs, but the "wet" plants are surely making more bulb growth than the plants in the compromise conditions. So, I infer that one size (or type of growing conditions) does not fit all plants, even though I wish such were the case. Cordially, Joe From barryandjac@bigpond.com Wed Jun 21 01:01:21 2006 Message-Id: <000b01c694ef$b59ae640$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 13:01:08 +0800 Hi Steve, In Western Australia, near wetlands (and in them) Z. aethiopica grows. In Winter time it can be found growing in the water. I remember trying to pick some growing in a Winter creek and they must have been at least half a metre down in depth amongst the reeds. It also grows in my Dad's garden but is small and compact there as his soil is mainly sand with some compost. In our local wetlands on the Canning River, where the base of the stems protrude from the ground to the top of the water would be approx.30cm to 3/4 metre in depth. Not sure if this helps. It's a shame it's a weed as the flowers are lovely and many florists are still known to put on their gumboots and trudge through the weeds to get to the flowers! Regards Jacinda Wilson, WA From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Wed Jun 21 05:12:27 2006 Message-Id: <007001c69512$cd483810$41758b90@angelaepdzuk5j> From: "angela offer" Subject: Zantedeschia Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 17:12:19 +0800 Beautiful, long lasting florists flowers, here in Albany in WA, any wet spot and they grow magnificently. Already declared a weed, although they are everywhere, it is not legal to get plants from the Eastern States. Angela Albany Western Australia (a florist who would like more plant!s) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jacinda and Barry" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 1:01 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Zantedeschia > Hi Steve, > > In Western Australia, near wetlands (and in them) Z. aethiopica grows. In > Winter time it can be found growing in the water. I remember trying to pick > some growing in a Winter creek and they must have been at least half a metre > down in depth amongst the reeds. It also grows in my Dad's garden but is > small and compact there as his soil is mainly sand with some compost. > > In our local wetlands on the Canning River, where the base of the stems > protrude from the ground to the top of the water would be approx.30cm to 3/4 > metre in depth. > > Not sure if this helps. It's a shame it's a weed as the flowers are lovely > and many florists are still known to put on their gumboots and trudge > through the weeds to get to the flowers! > > Regards > > Jacinda > Wilson, WA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From dells@voicenet.com Wed Jun 21 07:52:30 2006 Message-Id: <50256.151.201.218.149.1150890863.squirrel@webmail.voicenet.com> From: dells@voicenet.com Subject: Eucrosia biflora Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 07:54:23 -0400 (EDT) Dear John, I've tried to self Eucrosia with no luck. And also, I think it is E. bicolor rather than E. biflora. Dell > Are Eucrosia self fertile? I have one bulb just finishing but two others that should > open simultaneously and I was hoping 2 B able to get some seed set from them to increase > my collection. I've pollinated the single stem with it's own pollen. Time will tell > Since all my plants were from the same supplier, I am not sure if they are offsets, > seedlings or from cuttage of the same bulb. Are seedlings from the same parent > considered different enough for plants that require seperate clones to produce seeds?? > Oh, and one other question, why are they called biflora when 5 flowers are on the > stem?? > > > > > John Ingram in L.A., CA. > www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" > john@floralarchitecture.com > 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From jshields@indy.net Wed Jun 21 08:06:23 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060621080520.0356b058@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Aril Society International Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 08:06:42 -0400 And where is this fabulous web site? Show us a URL link and I'll see if it really is as great as the webmaster so modestly professes! Jim Shields At 06:58 PM 6/20/2006 -0400, you wrote: > > Trust me, Lee, you and other S. CA should find these 'easy' > >and intriguing. Here's a couple of my easy favorites: > > >I second that. Just take a meander through the photo gallery on the >ASI website, but be sure to have a pillow handy so your jaw doesn't >get injured when it falls to the floor. Some of them are incredibly, >bizarrely, beautiful. > >Dennis in Cincy > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Jun 21 08:52:46 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Aril Society International Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 07:52:26 -0500 >And where is this fabulous web site? Show us a URL link and I'll see if it >really is as great as the webmaster so modestly professes! > Dear all; I have posted the web site twice before, but go look again. http://www.arilsociety.org/arilsociety.pl?index Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jshields@indy.net Wed Jun 21 10:04:23 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060621100209.026a87d8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Aril Society International Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 10:04:37 -0400 Thanks very much, Jim, for posting the link again. Anyone who really wants to promote a web site, should post the link to it every time they mention the site. Some folks, like me, take a while to get revved up about a new idea, topic, plant, etc. Many folks, like me, are too lazy to hunt for a link in old messages. Jim Shields in lazy old Indiana At 07:52 AM 6/21/2006 -0500, you wrote: > >And where is this fabulous web site? Show us a URL link and I'll see if it > >really is as great as the webmaster so modestly professes! > > > >Dear all; > I have posted the web site twice before, but go look again. > > http://www.arilsociety.org/arilsociety.pl?index > > > Jim W. >-- >Dr. James W. Waddick >8871 NW Brostrom Rd. >Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 >USA >Ph. 816-746-1949 >Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From tversted@email.dk Wed Jun 21 10:04:53 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6953b$aa87e680$9700a8c0@brugers91e18kw> From: "Martin Tversted" Subject: Really off topic Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 16:04:52 +0200 Hello all I have not been active on this list before, sorry for that, but I have learned a lot. My subject is really off topic, but there seems to be a lot of people on this list with an interest in many kinds of plants. So the question is: would any of you have experience in growing Dendrosenecio? Martin Tversted http://www.northern-nursery.dk/ From msittner@mcn.org Wed Jun 21 10:15:00 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060621070900.0366ab10@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Aril Society International Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 07:14:02 -0700 Dear Jim, How much winter rainfall can these irises tolerate? The dry summer would be easy for me although baking would not. But our winters are very wet. We had more than 70 inches of rain, mostly between November and May this last rainy season. Southern California and Northern California climates are so different. Mary Sue From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Jun 21 12:08:43 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Aril Society International Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 09:36:33 -0500 >Dear Jim, > >How much winter rainfall can these irises tolerate? Dear Mary Sue; Depends. The aril species make up more than 1/4 of ALL iris species and the hybrids with garden bearded iris number in the hundreds (thousands). And some of these are bred back to other aril species so you can oncocyclus/regelia hybrids etc. I suggest you try a few different sorts- I stolonifera for a start, and aril-breds that are 50/50, or more onco, or less onco etc. Some are almost bulbous with short rounded rhizomes-others more stoloniferous. One of my favorites - 'Lancer' - has a good Aril look and is among the easiest tolerating a LOT of water in winter/spring here. Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From Theladygardens@aol.com Wed Jun 21 11:12:30 2006 Message-Id: <305.6acb904.31cabbd7@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Aril Society International Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 11:12:23 EDT I grow some of these iris. I have over 1000 iris in my garden but when an arilbred iris is in bloom, it always stops me in my tracks. I bring everyone in the garden over to see it, they are so beautiful. I live in the Silicon Valley area of northern California and grow them without much effort. I try to place them where I think they will do well and then they are on their own. Carolyn From maxwithers@gmail.com Wed Jun 21 13:03:56 2006 Message-Id: <44997BF1.4040809@gmail.com> From: Max Withers Subject: Asphodelus albus Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 10:03:45 -0700 Is Asphodelus albus summer-dormant? I assumed it was, and started witholding water to a plant I got in the ground rather late this year, but then came the flash of self-doubt that so often accompanies idle moments in the garden: maybe it's turning brown _because_ I'm witholding water. Sorry to trouble everyone with so banal a request, but the internet (and my small library) is curiously uninformative on this species. Thanks, Max Withers Oakland From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed Jun 21 13:30:44 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060621102630.00c346b0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Aril Society International Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 10:31:19 -0700 Mary Sue asked >How much winter rainfall can these [aril] irises tolerate? I also live in a region with heavy and prolonged winter rains, often lasting into June, and my experience is that Oncocyclus irises cannot tolerate this climate even under the protection of the bulb frame. They generally produce some foliage in late fall and this is very susceptible to fungus and/or bacterial infection, which saps the plant's strength and eventually kills it. I think you could grow them with a careful program of spraying, but I don't want to go to that length. The mere moisture in the atmosphere seems to promote these infections, even if no rain actually hits them. In contrast, hybrids between the Oncocyclus and Regelia sections (known as "Regeliocyclus" or "Oncogelia" hybrids) do extremely well in the bulb frame because they don't produce leaves until early spring. Many of them have the same spectacular marking and coloration as Onco irises. I haven't tried them in the open garden, however. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed Jun 21 13:38:37 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060621103219.00bea118@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Asphodelus albus Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 10:39:16 -0700 Max asked, >Is Asphodelus albus summer-dormant? I assumed it was, and started >witholding water to a plant I got in the ground rather late this year, >but then came the flash of self-doubt that so often accompanies idle >moments in the garden: maybe it's turning brown _because_ I'm witholding >water. Here in northern Oregon, it becomes dormant around the beginning of August. It may go through its growth cycle earlier where Max lives on San Francisco Bay. For those unfamiliar with it, it is a large, stately clump-forming plant with copious foliage and tall stems closely set with white flowers (which become ragged as they age). Here it flowers mostly in late May. Suitable for the sunny border or growing among small shrubs, it is easily lifted and divided into separate crowns while dormant. It is a common monocot seen among scrub in the Mediterranean region. It is easily grown from seed, which is readily available through the NARGS exchange. The dearth of information about it may stem from the fact that it's too big and leafy for the typical "bulb" setting, but not a favorite in the border because of the big hole it leaves when it goes dormant in midsummer. I have it on the sunny side of a dense magnolia, with narcissus and some self-sowing annuals and biennials. My garden is extremely informal and little visited by others, so I don't care about blank spaces at various times. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From plantlady@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Wed Jun 21 14:38:45 2006 Message-Id: From: "Beautiful Blooms / Linda Foulis" Subject: Aril Society International Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 12:41:15 -0600 They are incredible. It states on the Society website that aril's are just as hardy as bearded iris. Any zone 3 growers out there, or close to? Our wettest month is usually June but I do have some very dry spots in the new yard. There is also a good article in SRGC's The Rock Garden issue 116, on growing aril iris written by John Lonsdale. Linda Foulis Okotoks, AB Zone 3 It hasn't rained today, yet! From msittner@mcn.org Wed Jun 21 15:22:35 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060621120532.0366ec30@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Aril Irises Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 12:21:14 -0700 Dear all, Not long ago Susan and I created an Aril Iris wiki page with pictures from John Lonsdale, Jim McKenney, and Mark McDonough. It isn't nearly as fancy as the Aril International website, but it does have the link on it to the information John furnished a number of years ago to our group about his experiences growing these plants in Pennsylvania. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/ArilIrises Thanks about the answers to the rain question. It sounds like I'd have the same experience that Jane does. This year has been an outstanding year for Iris douglasiana however and Iris tenax I grew from NARGS seed is really pleasing me too. I expect there are Irises for all of us since the genus is such a large one. It's just a matter of figuring out what will grow in your climate. I keep hoping some year to see Carolyn's garden when it is in bloom. There were wonderful displays when I lived in Stockton of bearded Irises I remember well. They are not a good choice for where I live now however. They don't bloom well at all. Mary Sue From irisman@ameritech.net Wed Jun 21 16:53:26 2006 Message-Id: <00b101c69574$96aca680$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: Arilbred irises in California. Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 15:52:19 -0500 I did not mean to convey the idea that they were tricky to grow. Only the species and a few of the hybrids that are closer to the species. However, they grow better in California than other places, for the most part. Most arilbreds can be grown in the average garden if the drainage is sharp to medium OK. The species are another matter and do need sharp rainage, but what I referred to as a no-no,. is their relative unavailabilty or the difficulty of trying to grow species from seed. They are no more difficult than some of the trickier Junos where how you hold your mouth when you water them can kill them, make them sick or make them thrive. The strongest growers historically, in the ASI were in southern California or the southwest. And still are. They can tolerate lots of rain e.g., 70" a year if the drainage is good, lots of calcium , gravel, and minimal humus. And Jim.... Just type Aril Society International into your browser search slot instead of trying to remember or paste the URL in. Sorry-- we don't have a second-place stupid award. Cheers, Adam From piabinha@yahoo.com Wed Jun 21 17:32:30 2006 Message-Id: <20060621213229.88521.qmail@web51903.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: Eucrosia bicolor Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 14:32:29 -0700 (PDT) it is indeed bicolor. i have grown this weed for years and while i have a zillion bulbs, it has not bloomed indoors for me. ========= tsuh yang __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From dkramb@badbear.com Wed Jun 21 17:57:25 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060621175647.01f370f0@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Aril Society International Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 17:57:35 -0400 LOL easy enough to find... http://www.arilsociety.org/ Hold onto your socks! LOL Dennis (ASI webmaster extraordinaire) At 08:06 AM 6/21/2006, you wrote: >And where is this fabulous web site? Show us a URL link and I'll see if it >really is as great as the webmaster so modestly professes! > >Jim Shields From dkramb@badbear.com Wed Jun 21 18:06:20 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060621175938.01f32ad8@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Aril Society International Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 18:06:31 -0400 At 02:41 PM 6/21/2006, you wrote: >They are incredible. It states on the Society website that aril's are just >as hardy as bearded iris. Any zone 3 growers out there, or close to? Our >wettest month is usually June but I do have some very dry spots in the new >yard. "Arils" actually means the original desert-dwelling species. Those tend to be more temperamental than bearded irises. "Arilbreds" on the other hand, especially the quarterbreds are indeed just as hardy as bearded irises. At least in most gardens (I guess you can't always say "always")! On the ASI yahoogroups forum there are some Zone 4, 3, and 2 growers in Canada who have been trying to grow arilbreds for a couple years now. A couple of them are finally reporting success with bloom. They seem to survive fine in the northern climes, but bloom has been a bit of a challenge. There are at least 2 Canadian hybridizers currently working with arilbreds. I'm not sure what zones they're in, but I visited one of them in Guelph (I think it was) a few years ago. Dennis in Cincy From plantlady@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Wed Jun 21 18:54:56 2006 Message-Id: From: "Beautiful Blooms / Linda Foulis" Subject: Arils in Canada Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 16:57:21 -0600 Thank you for that Dennis. I just checked into Chuck Chapman's Iris site http://chapmaniris.com/index.htm and they do indeed have aril bred iris. Linda Foulis Okotoks, AB Zone 3 From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Jun 21 20:07:58 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Arilbred Irises Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 19:07:49 -0500 Dear all; It is easy to be confused by the array of iris involved here. The original Aril species are generally more difficult to grow and demanding especially in regard to annual watering schedule and drainage. I did not mean to recommend them for the novice. The aril-bred hybrids are much easier and very rewarding. Even up to the Canadian border at least and even easier in Mediterranean climates, but even here in the mid-west most cvs do exceedingly well, bloom regularly and multiply with vigor. I have donated extra rhizomes to ASI sale a couple of times. I am certain California Iris nurseries sell a wide range of cvs suited to your various micro-climates, but there are also hybridizers on the E. coast and all over the US developing easier to grow, nicely patterned hybrids. I grow a few species, and prefer hybrids that are at least 1/2 species to get the most "species look" possible and still not too demanding. Come on people- You can grow these. You deserve it. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From gardenersview@earthlink.net Wed Jun 21 20:15:22 2006 Message-Id: From: "sekkei" Subject: Arilbred Irises Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 17:15:22 -0700 Yeah, all we need is another group of plants to be passionate about. Sarcasm off. LOL Terence Hernstrom Redlands, CA (Where the heat is on!!!) -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 5:08 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Arilbred Irises D Come on people- You can grow these. You deserve it. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From CTeevan@milbank.com Wed Jun 21 20:27:05 2006 Message-Id: <7A30DB887980C04AB148B51AF19E29A76D11BF@ex9.milbank.local> From: "Teevan, Cathy J." Subject: Propagating Tulips Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 20:27:04 -0400 Hello, this is my first post. I live in Long Island, NY. I have a friend who desperately wants to learn how to take the seed from his mother's tulips (I think this is the problem as I understand it at least) and grow new tulips. Yes, I know this is not your average gardening activity. I was so impressed with your recent discussion about "growing" vs "growing" that I had to read more. And considered someone out there might possibly have tried GROWING tulips, the way this novice gardening friend (who does not know what the "pods" at the top of the stems are after it flowers) wants to grow them. Initially I said to myself, This person is so nieve, this person just doesn't understand that no one does that. But after hearing the story, my new attitude is, Why not? If one has the time and inclination, there is nothing wrong with this. And then I stumbled on your posts about "growing". He may be more of a gardener than I. Because I never seem to really grow anything. Does anyone have any advice about this project? What conditions are needed for Tulip Seed to germinate? What kind of summer conditions do you give the bulb? How does one "chip" (as they call it in the Lily business - I have not tried this yet but it is on my list of things to do, does that make me a gardener?) a Tulip bulb? Is this like getting bulblets and growing those? I have a lot to learn. At least it's less than my friend. RSVP. ======================================================================= IRS Circular 230 Disclosure: U.S. federal tax advice in the foregoing message from Milbank, Tweed, Hadley & McCloy LLP is not intended or written to be, and cannot be used, by any person for the purpose of avoiding tax penalties that may be imposed regarding the transactions or matters addressed. Some of that advice may have been written to support the promotion or marketing of the transactions or matters addressed within the meaning of IRS Circular 230, in which case you should seek advice based on your particular circumstances from an independent tax advisor. ======================================================================= This e-mail message may contain legally privileged and/or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient(s), or the employee or agent responsible for delivery of this message to the intended recipient(s), you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail message is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please immediately notify the sender and delete this e-mail message from your computer. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Thu Jun 22 01:22:44 2006 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Aril Society International Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 22:22:41 -0700 On Jun 21, 2006, at 1:52 PM, Adam Fikso wrote: > They are no more difficult than some of the trickier Junos where > how you > hold your mouth when you water them can kill them, make them sick > or make > them thrive. On Jun 20, 2006, at 11:35 AM, James Waddick wrote: > Arils (rhizomateous) are very different from Junos (bulbous) > except I grow mine in the same bed. On Jun 2, 2006, at 2:52 PM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Jane; > Correct about the "cv" , but I have mine high and dry on a > raised bed near to Junos, hardy cacti and Onco-bred iris. Summer > baking! > Thanks Jim > Okay, I looked at the photos of the various species and varieties. (And I think some of the Arils are amazing!) But am I getting a subtle message that somehow the growing of Arils or Arilbreds and Junos bears some resemblance? Are they from the same or similar localities? And how does John Lonsdale manage to grow so many of these (difficult) Irises so well in not the ideal climate? Inquiring minds... Maybe I'll try just one or two.....? ;-) --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA, USDA Zone 10a From totototo@telus.net Thu Jun 22 12:24:20 2006 Message-Id: <20060622162418.BFPJTWBN4B@priv-edmwaa05.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Propagating Tulips Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 09:22:11 -0700 On 21 Jun 06, at 20:27, Teevan, Cathy J. wrote: > I have a friend who desperately wants to learn how to take the seed > from his mother's tulips (I think this is the problem as I understand > it at least) and grow new tulips. Yes, I know this is not your average > gardening activity. I think you & your friend may have led rather sheltered lives. You'd be surprised at the activities that some people think are totally normal -- like growing tulips from seed. > someone out there might possibly have tried GROWING tulips, the way > this novice gardening friend (who does not know what the "pods" at > the top of the stems are after it flowers) wants to grow them. > Does anyone have any advice about this project? What conditions > are needed for Tulip Seed to germinate? What kind of summer > conditions do you give the bulb? Tulips are liliaceous and like lilies, fritillaries, etc have flat, flake-like seeds that are scattered by the wind when they are ripe. Leave the swelling seedpods on the plants until they turn yellow or brown and just start to gape open, then gather them in a *paper* bag and let the process finish in that. This prevents the seed from getting scattered in the garden and being lost. It's just a few days from "gaping open a little" to "ripe and ready to roll". A lot of the seeds will be sterile, lacking an embryo. Put them on a light table and it's easy to see the little dark line that is the dormant embryo. Generally fertile tulip seeds are larger and more fully developed than sterile ones, but this is not a hard and fast rule. Separate the good ones from the bad ones as well as you are able. You want to sow them by early fall. They will germinate next spring; the young seedlings look like onion seedlings. You didn't say where you are located, so I don't know what kind of winter weather you have, but here in Victoria, British Columbia it's been my practice to sow bulb seeds in pots and overwinter them in a coldframe. The coldframe is mainly to keep excessive winter rain off them and to protect them from rodents. Keep the young seedlings growing as long as you can. When they start to yellow, withhold water and dry the pot off. With young seedlings, I wouldn't bake the pot in the sun, however -- just park it in a shady spot that will keep any rain off. Around the beginning of August, dump the pot out and paw through the soil. You'll find minute tulip bulbs in it. It's been my experience that once the young bulb has formed, they reach flowering size faster if planted out in the garden, rather than repotted, but it's your call which you do. Tulips take a long time to reach flowering size, five to ten years in many cases, so patience is called for. Unless the tulips are pure species, there's no telling what the seedlings' flowers will look like. > How does one "chip" (as they call it in the Lily business - I have > not tried this yet but it is on my list of things to do, does that > make me a gardener?) a Tulip bulb? Is this like getting bulblets > and growing those? Unlike lily bulbs, tulip bulbs don't have scales and can't be chipped. The best you can do is lift them annually and take off any offsets that have formed, then grow these on to flowering size. Many species tulips form few or no offsets and must be multiplied by seed. Others are stoloniferous and will spread willy-nilly away from the original planting. Also be aware that many tulips send down "droppers" to great depths and can become almost ineradicable weeds in the wrong place. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Thu Jun 22 13:21:14 2006 Message-Id: <36236b31b0d1aaa4ca83f2e2cac92ce9@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Ismene amancaes Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 10:21:12 -0700 I can't believe it. Although my bulb is still quite young and small (this is its third growing season), my Ismene amancaes has sent up a scape (with one bud) and has bloomed! Thanks to the help of Jay Yourch, a quick photo of it is now on the wiki: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Ismene This is the yellow parent of the *much* more readily available Ismene/Hymenocallis 'Sulphur Queen' hybrid. I think it's beautiful and it's not that difficult to grow. Other than the fact that it has a really long dormancy period during which I keep it dry, it doesn't require any special care. (It seems to only grow during the spring and early summer and is dormant pretty much the entire rest of the year.) --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a From putman@pobox.upenn.edu Thu Jun 22 13:25:10 2006 Message-Id: <449AD260.5060403@pobox.upenn.edu> From: Stephen Putman Subject: Ismene amancaes Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 13:24:48 -0400 Mine has just sent up its little green leaf tip. I've got four bulbs in two pots, and I'm hoping for a blossom this year. It is nearly a month late emerging this year. Maybe random, maybe because I repotted last fall, maybe a sinister plot. Steve Putman Lee Poulsen wrote: > I can't believe it. Although my bulb is still quite young and small > (this is its third growing season), my Ismene amancaes has sent up a > scape (with one bud) and has bloomed! > > Thanks to the help of Jay Yourch, a quick photo of it is now on the > wiki: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Ismene > > This is the yellow parent of the *much* more readily available > Ismene/Hymenocallis 'Sulphur Queen' hybrid. > I think it's beautiful and it's not that difficult to grow. Other than > the fact that it has a really long dormancy period during which I keep > it dry, it doesn't require any special care. (It seems to only grow > during the spring and early summer and is dormant pretty much the > entire rest of the year.) > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From msittner@mcn.org Thu Jun 22 20:00:11 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060622164332.024ca748@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: New pictures on the wiki Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 16:59:43 -0700 Hi, Unfortunately we still haven't come up with a solution to our wiki security issues. Linda Foulis has volunteered to help us and is spending some time on this for which we are very grateful. In the meantime Susan, Jay, and I can add photos for others. My husband was fortunate last week to be able to take a trip to the Cedars which is an area in Sonoma County, California known for its Cupressus sargentii, Sargent Cypress, rugged cliffs and serpentine soils. Like a lot of areas with serpentine soils there are some unusual plants including a rare Calochortus, Calochortus raichei named after plantsman Roger Raiche, one of the owners of this undeveloped special property. It looks like a yellow Calochortus albus. I added some of Bob's pictures to the Calochortus wiki page including a number of habitat shots. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Calochortus The purple leafed Epipactis gigantea was found there too. I think we have discussed this orchid in the past. The one I purchased died, but it probably wasn't wet enough for it where I planted it. I've added pictures of the amazing leaves. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Epipactis There are a number of bulbs that grow at the Cedars including a natural hybrid of Calochortus amabilis and Calochortus tolmiei, but it gets quite hot in the summer and the others were finished blooming. C. raichei is a late bloomer. In order to get in to this property you have to cross the creek multiple times so need a 4 wheel drive or truck with high clearance (and permission from the owners.) Mary Sue From barryandjac@bigpond.com Fri Jun 23 04:42:23 2006 Message-Id: <004b01c696a0$ec405290$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Ismene amancaes/Thanks on Tulip info Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 16:42:12 +0800 Hi Lee, Loved the pic. Great colour. Also.... thanks on the Tulip propagating info. Had always wondered what the process was for this. Regards Jacinda Wilson, WA sunny and 24 degrees C From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Fri Jun 23 06:06:56 2006 Message-Id: <00b901c696ac$c17d6640$46051452@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Asphodelus albus Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 11:06:54 +0100 Asphodelus albus is summer dormant, but can take its time going down, especially if the soil is damp. The round, yellowish-brown fruits can be quite attractive at this time, but tend to weigh the stems down. We grow it here as it is a survivor from H.J. Elwes's garden, but I wouldn't bother on its own merits. The inflorescence is attractive as it first opens but thereafter quickly looks very tatty. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Max Withers" To: Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 6:03 PM Subject: [pbs] Asphodelus albus > Is Asphodelus albus summer-dormant? I From invite@birthdayalarm.com Fri Jun 23 13:38:57 2006 Message-Id: <20060623173857.79D184C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Cathy Craig Subject: Calendar Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 17:38:43 +0000 Hi, I am creating a birthday calendar of all my friends and family. Can you please click on the link below to enter your birthday for me. http://www.birthdayalarm.com/bd1/71099751a632033608b1182831745c908492628d1719 Thanks, Cathy From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Fri Jun 23 16:45:58 2006 Message-Id: <20060623204557.5C1FE4F459@ws6-5.us4.outblaze.com> From: jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Subject: Calochortus Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 15:45:57 -0500 Although the Calochortus season here is over as far as flowers are concerned, there are lots of images to remind me of a very good season. Sometime last year Mary Sue announced a book, Wild Lilies, Irises, and Grasses Gardening with California Monocots. I obtained a copy, read it with a bit of California-envy and then more or less forgot about it. Jane McGary's list last fall offered a nice assortment of Californians, and I tried many of them - including four Calochortus. I also bought bulbs of five of the commercial strains of Calochortus now widely offered. Just about everything I planted grew and eventually bloomed, and my camera has been very busy (and so have I with all the sorting, resizing and renaming of the files). These flowers are so photogenic: graceful, intricate, colorful, conspicuous - it's hard to put the camera down when they are in bloom. They are already well represented on the wiki, but for those of you who love these blossoms and can't see enough of them, I've posted a Calochortus photo gallery on my web site. These pages are a prototype for the development of future photo galleries on the site. Take a look at: http://www.jimmckenney.com/calochortus_page.htm There are lots of images of the six forms which flowered freely here this year. BTW, I'm no Calochortus expert, and when I look at these images, they raise doubts about the identity of some of the commercial material (surprise!). If I've misidentified some of them, please let me know. After doing the Calochortus gallery, and sorting lots of other images, I absent mindedly picked up the Wild Lilies book to take with me on a recent trip. As I looked through it, I realized what a difference a year can make. When I received the book last year, I had only a cursory familiarity with such genera as Calochortus, Bloomera, Dichelostemma, Triteleia, Odontostomun and the really comely Californian Fritillaria. Now many of them have bloomed in the garden here and, as I examine the nice fat bulbs most have produced, I look forward to seeing them again in the future. I hope I'm not counting my chickens before they hatch! Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Bloomera crocea (thanks, Jane) and Hymenocallis liriosme (thanks, Joe) are blooming today. From dkramb@badbear.com Fri Jun 23 19:09:39 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060623190905.01f43fe0@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Calochortus Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 19:09:52 -0400 At 04:45 PM 6/23/2006, you wrote: >Although the Calochortus season here is over as far as flowers are >concerned, there are lots of images to remind me of a very good season. I had a surprise 2nd round of bloom this spring. They bloomed when they normally do (during snowy spring season) but then I had another flush of bloom about 2 or 3 weeks ago. In the 5 or 6 years I've grown them, that's the first I noticed this behavior. Dennis in Cincy From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Fri Jun 23 21:33:40 2006 Message-Id: <20060624013333.3365EDA4E3@ws6-6.us4.outblaze.com> From: jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Subject: Calochortus Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 20:33:33 -0500 Dennis, it sounds as if your plants bloomed much earlier than the plants here. The Calochortus here were still in bloom last week, technically spring - but they were not blooming in the snowy spring. Which ones are you growing, and how do you grow them? In particular, do you leave them in the ground all year? The ones here were not planted until November. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Begonia sutherlandii is in bloom; these are plants which spent the winter outside. From dkramb@badbear.com Fri Jun 23 22:07:58 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060623220616.01f3c050@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Calochortus Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 22:08:16 -0400 At 09:33 PM 6/23/2006, you wrote: >Dennis, it sounds as if your plants bloomed much earlier than the >plants here. > >The Calochortus here were still in bloom last week, technically >spring - but they were not blooming in the snowy spring. Which ones >are you growing, and how do you grow them? In particular, do you >leave them in the ground all year? I have them on the south side (sunny/warm side) of my house, and they stay there all year 'round. They definitely bloom early on the list of things in my garden. The second flush of bloom was a fun surprise. I might actually get seed for once! Dennis in Cincy From eagle85@flash.net Sat Jun 24 17:51:29 2006 Message-Id: <49572128-03CA-11DB-92C5-00050277B6E6@flash.net> From: Doug Westfall Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2006 14:42:08 -0700 To any member (s), I have now one S. howardii bulb that blooms "faithfully" every year (sometimes twice). I have not checked for offsets for about three years, but I have found none in the past. Does anyone know of a way to "encourage" this bulb to produce offsets? In addition, it does not seem "interested" in producing seeds. Any suggestions? Doug From dkramb@badbear.com Sun Jun 25 17:24:04 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060625172140.0368ebc8@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Aril Society International Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 17:24:03 -0400 >or similar localities? And how does John Lonsdale manage to grow so >many of these (difficult) Irises so well in not the ideal climate? >Inquiring minds... pact with the devil? :-) just kiddin... he's done lots of research and tries to give them what they need to stay happy. it also helps to have a greenhouse where you can control the amount of water they receive in the summer months... i think john has one of those ? not sure. dennis in cincy (where capital letters are passe) From john@johnlonsdale.net Sun Jun 25 17:44:54 2006 Message-Id: <002401c698a0$939e6b20$6801a8c0@XPS400> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: Lonsdale Oncos Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 17:44:45 -0400 Yup, me and Old Nick get along just fine! I do have a greenhouse but it only houses potted Onco seedlings until they are 2 years old, at which point they go outside. I put the covers on the Onco bed last weekend - good job because we just got 6" of rain in 2 days. They are nice and dry and will stay that way until mid-September. Spent today potting up paeony seedlings - they look great. Best, J. John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b >or similar localities? And how does John Lonsdale manage to grow so >many of these (difficult) Irises so well in not the ideal climate? >Inquiring minds... pact with the devil? :-) just kiddin... he's done lots of research and tries to give them what they need to stay happy. it also helps to have a greenhouse where you can control the amount of water they receive in the summer months... i think john has one of those ? not sure. From YOURCH@nortel.com Mon Jun 26 10:44:57 2006 Message-Id: <45409CEDA4EFB7428420872E126CFB010C76D529@zrtphxm2.corp.nortel.com> From: "James Yourch" Subject: Crinum 'Sunbonnet' Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 10:44:47 -0400 Hi all, I added a new Crinum hybrid named 'Sunbonnet' to the Wiki. 'Sunbonnet' is a sibling of 'Super Ellen', so it should have very good cold tolerance. The flowers of 'Sunbonnet' are very dark and nearly red. If interested have a look at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#Sunbon net While you are there scroll down to 'Super Ellen' because I updated the pictures there too. Regards, Jay From YOURCH@nortel.com Mon Jun 26 11:08:55 2006 Message-Id: <45409CEDA4EFB7428420872E126CFB010C76D5CB@zrtphxm2.corp.nortel.com> From: "James Yourch" Subject: Crinum 'Sunbonnet' - link wrapped Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 11:08:42 -0400 Hi all, In my first announcement the link wrapped. Hopefully this will work better. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#Sunbonnet Regards, Jay From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Mon Jun 26 12:18:05 2006 Message-Id: <20060626161803.94E044F47A@ws6-5.us4.outblaze.com> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Cardiocrinum cathayanum Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 11:18:03 -0500 I guess we all eventually have the experience of someone else doing really well something you yourself really want to be able to do. I had that experience today when one of my local gardening friends, Dan Weil, forwarded the link to some Cardiocrinum photos he did in his garden. Wow! I think the rest of you will enjoy these, too. Take a look at: www.pbase.com/danielweil/cardiocrinum The garden is on a Maryland hillside overlooking the Potomac River near Harper's Ferry, West Virginia. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where we had about seven inches of rain last night - about 1/2 inch of it ended up in the basement. From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Mon Jun 26 12:26:20 2006 Message-Id: <20060626162619.A14FF4F5D4@ws6-5.us4.outblaze.com> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Cardiocrinum cathayanum Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 11:26:19 -0500 The link for the Cardiocrinum images should have been given as: http://www.pbase.com/danielweil/cardiocrinum Jim McKenney From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Mon Jun 26 13:36:11 2006 Message-Id: <001f01c69947$055ce6a0$0200a8c0@2CVEVE1> From: "Brian Whyer" Subject: Cardiocrinum cathayanum Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 18:36:13 +0100 > Cardiocrinum photos he did in his garden. > > Wow! I think the rest of you will enjoy these, too. Take a look at: > > www.pbase.com/danielweil/cardiocrinum I have just flowered this cardiocrinum, for the first time. It rather unexpectedly flowered, in its second season with me, in a 9" pot, all of 6' tall and with 25 flowers. It needed a tripod support in winds a few weeks back. I did wonder if the irregular watering and temperatures, not helped by our marked seasonal changes, drought, and now hose ban, had affected the flower shape, as mine too have this inward curving of the petals, particularly the top pair either side of the top centre petal. Maybe it is typical of this species as I don't recall C. giganteum showing such marked petal curving. The previous 2 forms of C. giganteum? I had, flowered several weeks apart, 1 flowered from the top down, the other from the bottom up. C. cathayanum, for me, opened in the middle of the spike first, the top and bottom flowers opening a day or two later. A flower spike that opens from the bottom up, to me always seems much more elegant. A large split in the stem when it was < 2' tall, does not seem to have adversely troubled it. It has 3 offshoots, for continuity, and no doubt will have copious seed if past experience is anything to go by. Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 "Some" light rain today; the first for several weeks. From leo@possi.org Mon Jun 26 19:05:47 2006 Message-Id: <36688.209.180.132.162.1151363145.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Puna bonniae Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 16:05:45 -0700 (MST) > If [Puna bonniae] is being cultivated in North America, This plant has been in general circulation among cactus and succulent growers for the last several years. It grows very easily and rapidly from cuttings. There should be no reason to dig it up from habitat, since it propagates and grows so easily. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From 320083817243-0001@t-online.de Wed Jun 28 08:19:50 2006 Message-Id: <1FvZ14-280Zg80@fwd29.sul.t-online.de> From: 320083817243-0001@t-online.de (Johannes-Ulrich Urban) Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 14:19:34 +0200 Dear Doug, It is frustrating to have only one bulb that does not offset or set seed. For stimulating seed set in normally self sterile plants I read an interesting article that said that some plants can be stimulated to accept their own pollen if the stigma is stimulated otherwise, in this case with cement powder. I have never tried this but apparently it works. Another method mentioned is to use pollen from another related plant AND the own pollen at the same time. Some of the seedlings will then of course be of hybrid origin but some may be true species self pollinations. The foreign pollen stimulates the stigma and "by error" it then also accepts the own pollen. It is best to use a plant as pollinator that is as distinctly different from your plant as possible in order to be able to recognise the hybrid offspring as soon as possible from the species one. It is quite theoretical and I have never tried this myself but the source was reliable but concerning Catus hybridisation. Nothing can be lost this way, though. To force a bulb to make offsets it needs to destroy the growing centre. Would you be happy to do this? I would not with my one and only bulb. Perhaps cut it into two halves with a sharp knife and grow both parts on.... but this may be too risky, too. Is there nobody with another bulb/another clone of the same species that can send you pollen? Or borrow you the bulb for a season and share the seed? I am sorry, I cannot, I have a good form of S.formosissima but not the new species. greetings from Germany, Uli From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Wed Jun 28 08:51:03 2006 Message-Id: <000501c69ab1$829e9e40$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: pollination; was RE: Sprekelia howardii Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 08:51:01 -0400 Uli's suggestion to use pollen from Doug's one plant reminds me of something related. Last year I obtained a great prize: a form of Lilium candidum which evidently grows well under my conditions. When it bloomed this year, I pollinated it with its own pollen and am getting good capsule formation. There is a widespread misconception that lilies are self-incompatible. Some may be. But in an article by David Griffiths written about seventy-five years ago, he recommended pollinating Lilium candidum with its own pollen to get seed for commercial production. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where water-wise gardening has taken on a new meaning this week as we get washed by deluge after deluge. From jshields@indy.net Wed Jun 28 09:45:29 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060628082904.026b8e98@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 09:45:46 -0400 Hi all, I had one bulb of Sprekelia howardii bloom here this spring -- the first bloom I've ever had of S. howardii. I unfortunately did not save any of the pollen, but I will definitely save pollen form future blooms of this species. I had one small seedling bulb produce one tiny offset. Both mother and offset are still too small to disturb. If or when this clone flowers, I'll certainly try to get seed form it. The tendency to make offsets may be genetic. I've found in more common forms of Sprekelia that planting the bulb very shallowly in a shallow pot can promote formation of offsets without damaging the bulb. It may also inhibit flowering...... Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 02:19 PM 6/28/2006 +0200, you wrote: >Dear Doug, > >It is frustrating to have only one bulb that does not offset or set >seed. ......... >greetings from Germany, >Uli ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Jun 28 14:36:23 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Crocus cucci ? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 13:36:05 -0500 Dear All; I just got the Park's seed catalog and my eye stopped at the snow crocus to take in a cultivar listed as 'Cucci' See http://www.parkseed.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDisplay?storeId=10101&catalogId=10101&langId=-1&mainPage=prod2working&ItemId=8436&cid=pport0001 It doesn't look right to me and a Google search came up pretty slim. Anyone familiar with this? Is it a misspelling? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Wed Jun 28 14:40:53 2006 Message-Id: <001901c69ae2$4ba579a0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Crocus cucci ? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 14:40:13 -0400 I don't know about the crocus Jim W. questioned, but I just looked over that catalog and saw lots of typos. Check out the price for Lycoris radiata for instance. Jim McKenney From john@johnlonsdale.net Wed Jun 28 14:47:19 2006 Message-Id: From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Crocus cucci ? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 14:47:54 -0400 Jim, Never heard of this or anything similar, but then I'm not really up with cultivars. It could be a korolkowii or ancyrensis selection? Bit of a stretch to tout it as a change from the 'yellows, blues and whites'! I don't think I've ever seen a truly yellow crocus - they are all this orange/gold/bronze end of the yellow spectrum. Best, J. On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 13:36:05 -0500 James Waddick wrote: > Dear All; > I just got the Park's seed catalog and my eye stopped >at the > snow crocus to take in a cultivar listed as 'Cucci' > See > > http://www.parkseed.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDisplay?storeId=10101&catalogId=10101&langId=-1&mainPage=prod2working&ItemId=8436&cid=pport0001 John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Wed Jun 28 15:09:10 2006 Message-Id: <001a01c69ae6$55bb1f40$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Crocus cucci ? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 15:09:08 -0400 John L's isolation up on the Olympian peaks of crocusdom has evidently sheltered him from the goings on in lowland gardens. Yes, there are yellow crocus, crocus with little or no trace of orange/gold/bronze in the color. Maybe we should take up a collection to buy him some of the so-called chrysanthus hybrids such as 'Cream Beauty' and 'Moonlight'. And then there's always the old one named for that crocus guy, Boules or whatever his name was. Sad to say, I no longer grow these. Since he'll probably think these are new and rare, we can offer them in trade for Crocus mathewii. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the sun is out, the breeze is blowing, things are drying out, and the house smells less like a dirty clothes hamper. From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Wed Jun 28 15:24:33 2006 Message-Id: <001b01c69ae8$7b59ca10$163f0252@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Crocus cucci ? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 20:24:30 +0100 The picture from the link to this mysterious plant is of C. angustifolius. Could 'Cucci' be a new cultivar (that nobody has heard of)? John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Waddick" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 7:36 PM Subject: [pbs] Crocus cucci ? > Dear All; > I just got the Park's seed catalog and my eye stopped at the > snow crocus to take in a cultivar listed as 'Cucci' > See > > http://www.parkseed.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDisplay?storeId=10101&catalogId=10101&langId=-1&mainPage=prod2working&ItemId=8436&cid=pport0001 > > From dells@voicenet.com Wed Jun 28 15:34:42 2006 Message-Id: <20060628193442.CB99A4C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Crocus cucci ? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 15:35:08 -0400 I think it's the first designer crocus 'Gucci' -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 2:36 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Crocus cucci ? Dear All; I just got the Park's seed catalog and my eye stopped at the snow crocus to take in a cultivar listed as 'Cucci' See http://www.parkseed.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDisplay?storeI d=10101&catalogId=10101&langId=-1&mainPage=prod2working&ItemId=8436&cid=ppor t0001 It doesn't look right to me and a Google search came up pretty slim. Anyone familiar with this? Is it a misspelling? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From eagle85@flash.net Wed Jun 28 16:14:59 2006 Message-Id: <774ABAE2-06E1-11DB-8E17-00050277B6E6@flash.net> From: Doug Westfall Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 13:05:37 -0700 > Jim Shields, I have tried to self pollinate the first flower and I took pollen from a S. Orient red, micro waved it for 20 sec. and mixed that with pollen from the second bloom. I now have a small amount of pollen saved in the refrigerator for the future and/or to trade with someone else. Is there no Mexican botanist out there who could help us with a few bulbs, some pollen, or something? Doug From garrideb@well.com Wed Jun 28 16:22:34 2006 Message-Id: <44A2E4EA.6070207@well.com> From: "James R. Fisher" Subject: Crocus cucci ? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 16:22:02 -0400 James Waddick wrote: > Dear All; > I just got the Park's seed catalog and my eye stopped at the > snow crocus to take in a cultivar listed as 'Cucci' > See > > http://www.parkseed.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDisplay?storeId=10101&catalogId=10101&langId=-1&mainPage=prod2working&ItemId=8436&cid=pport0001 > > > It doesn't look right to me and a Google search came up > pretty slim. Anyone familiar with this? Is it a misspelling? > > Best Jim W. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Whatever it is, it sets a record for height and width, 3' x 3', according to the table of properties on the right... -jrf -- Jim Fisher Vienna, Virginia USA 38.9 N 77.2 W USDA Zone 7 Max. 95 F [36 C], Min. 10 F [-12 C] From boutin@goldrush.com Wed Jun 28 16:24:05 2006 Message-Id: <001b01c69af0$d8aaab50$043d7143@homecomputer> From: "boutin" Subject: Shilka orchid iris Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 13:24:18 -0700 Was leafing through a 1939 Carl A. Hansen Nursery catalog from Brookings, South Dakota, and noticed the offer of "Hansen's new Shilka everblooming orchid Iris. The offer was derived from collections made by Carl A. Hansen near the town of Shilka, in the wilds of Siberia. Description says it bloomed 6-8 weeks after all other irises were gone. Wide spreading blooms, single or double, in delicate tones of orchid and blue, mingled with creamy white. Delicately fragrant. What Iris species is this? Fred Boutin From sussli@netscape.com Wed Jun 28 20:54:32 2006 Message-Id: <20060628175432.CB4087B2@resin05.mta.everyone.net> From: Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 17:54:32 -0700 Hello Doug, I was absolutely dumbfounded by your post where you describe that you microwave any pollen collected for 20 seconds before storing it in the refrigerator for future use. Is that micro waving done at 100% power? Does that not completely fry the pollen making it sterile and what is the main purpose for this procedure? When you mix the pollen, I presume you are talking about pollen from other flowers of the same species, which was also micro waved? And if it does work, can this method also be used for other plant families, say succulents or gesneriads? Thanks. Gene/San Francisco. --- eagle85@flash.net wrote: From: Doug Westfall To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Sprekelia howardii Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 13:05:37 -0700 > Jim Shields, I have tried to self pollinate the first flower and I took pollen from a S. Orient red, micro waved it for 20 sec. and mixed that with pollen from the second bloom. I now have a small amount of pollen saved in the refrigerator for the future and/or to trade with someone else. Is there no Mexican botanist out there who could help us with a few bulbs, some pollen, or something? Doug _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _____________________________________________________________ Netscape. Just the Net You Need. From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Thu Jun 29 02:46:43 2006 Message-Id: <003201c69b47$c766e370$5dc76b51@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 07:46:40 +0100 Why not twin-scale the bulb? This is standard technique for propagating amaryllids and has a high success rate if done properly. Practise with an ordinary S. formosissima first! John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Westfall" > > > I have now one S. howardii bulb that blooms "faithfully" every year > (sometimes twice). I have not checked for offsets for about three > years, but I have found none in the past. Does anyone know of a way to > "encourage" this bulb to produce offsets? > > From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Thu Jun 29 09:08:03 2006 Message-Id: <20060629130802.6927.qmail@web33909.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 06:08:02 -0700 (PDT) I have heard that pollen mixtures are used to somehow facilitate difficult crosses. Maybe they take up the receptors or burn up the S proteins so the pollen tubes can sneak into the style to reach the ovary? I wonder what mechanism of incompatibility exists in the Amaryllidaceae. I know that tomato and brassicas have two different mechanisms in the classic studies of self incompatibilities. I've also heard that breeders sometimes mix pollen with lily stigma exudate and inject it into the style or ovary. James Frelichowski --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta. From eagle85@flash.net Thu Jun 29 11:34:53 2006 Message-Id: <7FA371AF-0783-11DB-A367-00050277B6E6@flash.net> From: Doug Westfall Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 08:25:30 -0700 On Wednesday, June 28, 2006, at 05:54 PM, wrote: > I was absolutely dumbfounded by your post where you describe that you > microwave any pollen collected for 20 seconds before storing it in the > refrigerator for future use. Is that micro waving done at 100% power? > Does that not completely fry the pollen making it sterile and what is > the main purpose for this procedure? When you mix the pollen, I > presume you are talking about pollen from other flowers of the same > species, which was also micro waved? And if it does work, can this > method also be used for other plant families, say succulents or > gesneriads? Thanks. > > Gene/San Francisco. The method was recommended to me. I had nothing to lose, so I tried it. More later if it works. Doug From eagle85@flash.net Thu Jun 29 11:36:30 2006 Message-Id: From: Doug Westfall Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 08:27:07 -0700 On Wednesday, June 28, 2006, at 11:46 PM, John Grimshaw wrote: > Why not twin-scale the bulb? This is standard technique for propagating > amaryllids and has a high success rate if done properly. Practise with > an > ordinary S. formosissima first! > > John Grimshaw > Thanks, but I have only one bulb. I have used this procedure on Veltheimia. Doug From eagle85@flash.net Thu Jun 29 11:38:34 2006 Message-Id: <041E3642-0784-11DB-A367-00050277B6E6@flash.net> From: Doug Westfall Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 08:29:12 -0700 On Thursday, June 29, 2006, at 06:08 AM, James Frelichowski wrote: > James Frelichowski The procedure was recommended to me and I am trying it. More if it works; Doug From jshields@indy.net Thu Jun 29 12:12:34 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060629120813.02595728@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:12:49 -0400 I think I may detect a trace of confusion here. The microwaved pollen is surely dead and completely infertile. However, the dead pollen's surface proteins or polysaccharides are still there, and they are what one hopes will trigger the proper responses in the stigma to allow fertilization by other pollen, not microwaved, that is then applied to the stigma. You mix compatible but dead pollen with live pollen that would otherwise be rejected by the stigma. This way you get no unwanted hybrids mixed in with your seeds. Clear as mud? Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 08:25 AM 6/29/2006 -0700, you wrote: >On Wednesday, June 28, 2006, at 05:54 PM, wrote: > > > I was absolutely dumbfounded by your post where you describe that you > > microwave any pollen collected for 20 seconds before storing it in the > > refrigerator for future use......... > >The method was recommended to me. I had nothing to lose, so I tried it. > More later if it works. > >Doug ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From dells@voicenet.com Fri Jun 30 06:33:39 2006 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 121 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 06:34:54 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 121" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash, check, or Paypal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: .... Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com . If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Mary Sue Ittner: They are all winter growing and some of them in small quantities. I think there are pictures of all of them on the wiki. BULBS: 1. Lachenalia reflexa -- yellow 2. Oxalis callosa -- this one has a really pretty flower 3. Oxalis commutata 4. Oxalis flava -- fast multiplier 5. Oxalis hirta -- does better for me with a deeper pot 6. Oxalis incarnata -- can be grown in a hanging basket, multiplies rapidly! 7. Oxalis livida Uli 76 8. Oxalis polyphylla v. heptaphylla MV6396 9. Oxalis purpurea white -- be sure you want a large quantity of this if you plant it in the group in a Mediterraean climate 10. Oxalis zeekoevleyensis -- late summer, early fall bloomer so plan to water early 11. Romulea gigantea -- small flower, grown from seed identified as something else 12. Romulea minutiflora -- small flower, grown from seed identified as something else 13. Romulea rosea (australis) -- small flower, grown from seed identified as something else. I tried to key this out and I think it looks like the one that has escaped in Australia and here in California too SEED: 14. Fritillaria biflora 15. Moraea polystachya -- one of the longest blooming Moraeas and also one with very large flowers 16. Pelargonium incrassatum (few) -- this is a wonderful Pelargonium with bright pink flowers, dormant in summer 17. Phaedranassa sp. -- I have plants that were identified as P. dubia, P. cinerea, and P. carmioli. They all look alike to me so I have no clue what I am really growing. They are good for me as greenhouse plants (unheated in winter, but kept usually just above freezing) and could probably be a houseplant too. They bloom reliably after a period of withholding water for three months 18. Romulea bulbocodium -- this European Romulea is very pretty and does very well in containers and raised beds in my Mediterranean heavy winter rainfall climate. I haven't tried it in the ground. 19. Sparaxis grandiflora violacea 20. Triteleia montana (small amt.) -- although the seed was labeled something else, I've keyed it several times to this species. It is interesting as the flowers turn from white to yellow or is it yellow to white. It seems to be easy to maintain at low elevations. Thank you, Mary Sue !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From msittner@mcn.org Fri Jun 30 09:51:50 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060630064152.038e0ed0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Latest BX Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 06:51:33 -0700 Hi, I dashed off that note to Dell and see I meant to write ground not group when writing about Oxalis purpurea. I don't know if all forms of this would naturalize (read get out of control) in all Mediterranean climates as I understood from my friend Lily from the Mendocino Botanical Gardens that the deer preferred a particularly pretty form there while leaving alone another one so the one she really liked did not increase, but this white one has increased rapidly in my garden. I thought I had put it where I didn't care if it expanded, but then I decided I wanted some other plants in that area too and was sorry. It is however very pretty and long blooming as long as it is in a sunny spot, but I will probably always be restraining it so wished I had kept it in a pot. I had dug out some that came with my garden in a shady spot that expanded well in those conditions, but did not bloom. Not all South African Oxalis species naturalize however. Some you plant out and never see again, but the same species can be quite wonderful in a container. I suppose I should have put a warning next to the Oxalis offerings about the addiction possibilities. Mary Sue From msittner@mcn.org Fri Jun 30 10:10:06 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060630065523.0391a480@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 07:09:43 -0700 Dear All, I am trying to sort out some Gladiolus blooming now in my garden and was looking for some comparisons online after having decided that perhaps the one I have thought to be one thing as it was identified by the source as that is really a closely related species. In doing that I came across my picture from the wiki of the plant I was working on a commercial German site. So I looked down the line and saw there were quite a few other illustrations of mine for the Gladiolus section. I have written asking to remove the pbs wiki pictures from their site, but got a note back that they are on vacation until July 18. We've been down this road before. A lot of us are willing to share our pictures with permission and proper identification and many of us even do so for free in the spirit of education. I just gave permission to use a Calochortus picture in a Sierra Club newsletter. This changes when you are not asked first and especially when the pictures are used by a commercial site. I don't have time to go through all the pictures and look for the ones that came from our wiki. But if any of the rest of you want to do this and let me know what they are, if and when I hear back, I will give them a list. Also if any of you find a picture of yours that is being used and you are happy for it to be used in this way, let me know that too and I can include pictures that they do not have to remove. Thanks. http://www.rareplants.de/ Mary Sue From john@johnlonsdale.net Fri Jun 30 10:40:30 2006 Message-Id: From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 10:41:06 -0400 Mary Sue, A quick look revealed some of my crocus images, I didn't have time to check further. They certainly don't have permission to use any of my images from the wiki or elsewhere so if you do get back to them I'd be grateful if you could communicate that. Thanks and all the best, John John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From jrc@crellin.org.uk Fri Jun 30 10:53:10 2006 Message-Id: From: "JohnRCrellin" Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 15:53:17 +0100 This problem is obviously increasing. Like others who have commented here I do like to retain my copyright but always react generously to polite requests (I've done two funerals recently for instance). The Bioimages site (www.bioimages.org.uk) has recently been offline and I think still hasn't got its pictures back on line after server overload from people downloading the ENTIRE SITE. Much of it is ignorance of the legal position I am sure - combined with a "the web is free" myth. My main motivation is to share images I enjoy making as I am sure it is for list members who contribute to the wiki. Perhaps adding a Creative Commons Copyright notice to the wiki pages would help a bit - I think the balance struck by that venture is about right. http://creativecommons.org/ Reply / forward from John Crellin www.FloralWIKI.co.uk the new bit of www.FloralImages.co.uk From sussli@netscape.com Fri Jun 30 12:40:11 2006 Message-Id: <20060630094010.1F86C837@resin01.mta.everyone.net> From: Subject: Sprekelia howardii Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 09:40:10 -0700 Hi Jim, Thank you for your response. I was obviously confused by this issue, but understand now what you are doing. I still don't comprehend the forces that are at work here. However, that is really immaterial and I am simply going to try it. I am mainly hybridizing gesneriads and I am looking for a way to quicker and more reliably stabilize the plants grown from seeds to consistently represent the qualities I found attractive in the best hybrids in the first place. I have been selfing the best plants back to itself for 3 generations, but still get too much variability in the offsprings, while species selfed back just about always give me the same plants back from seeds. So, thanks again for this new idea. Gene Sussli/San Francisco. --- jshields@indy.net wrote: From: "J.E. Shields" To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Sprekelia howardii Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:12:49 -0400 I think I may detect a trace of confusion here. The microwaved pollen is surely dead and completely infertile. However, the dead pollen's surface proteins or polysaccharides are still there, and they are what one hopes will trigger the proper responses in the stigma to allow fertilization by other pollen, not microwaved, that is then applied to the stigma. You mix compatible but dead pollen with live pollen that would otherwise be rejected by the stigma. This way you get no unwanted hybrids mixed in with your seeds. Clear as mud? Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 08:25 AM 6/29/2006 -0700, you wrote: >On Wednesday, June 28, 2006, at 05:54 PM, wrote: > > > I was absolutely dumbfounded by your post where you describe that you > > microwave any pollen collected for 20 seconds before storing it in the > > refrigerator for future use......... > >The method was recommended to me. I had nothing to lose, so I tried it. > More later if it works. > >Doug ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _____________________________________________________________ Netscape. Just the Net You Need. From irisman@ameritech.net Fri Jun 30 13:22:00 2006 Message-Id: <006001c69c69$818f2920$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: microwaving pollen Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 12:20:37 -0500 Hello Jim. Very savvy! Kills the pollen but saves the chemistry that triggers the necessary responses. Birth control in the other direction!. Wish I'd thought of it. Adam in Glenview, IL From dells@voicenet.com Fri Jun 30 17:06:21 2006 Message-Id: <2631.209.71.21.222.1151701581.squirrel@webmail.voicenet.com> From: dells@voicenet.com Subject: Pacific BX 121 CLOSED Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 17:06:21 -0400 (EDT) Not surprisingly, everything has been claimed already. Packages should go out after the weekend. Enjoy, Dell Dell Sherk, Director, PBS BX From totototo@telus.net Fri Jun 30 18:40:12 2006 Message-Id: <20060630224011.CA51NDAPL8@priv-edmwaa06.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 15:38:23 -0700 On 30 Jun 06, at 7:09, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > I came across my picture from the wiki of the plant I was working on a > commercial German site. It's the potential for this kind of piracy that has led me to put a copyright notice on each and every picture I contribute to the wiki. Not that I think this will make a devil of a lot of difference, but at least no one can say "I didn't know." In the interests of not obscuring the interesting part of each picture, I keep my copyright notices off in one corner. Of course this makes them easy to remove, but such is life. If the problem persists, it may become advisable for us all to put a watermark copyright notice smack across the face of the picture where it can't be trimmed off. This is actually fairly easy to do using masks and selective adjustment of hue, brightness, contrast, gamma, or whatever suits your fancy. Incidentally, the website is clearly the brainchild of an amateur whose understanding of "usability" is unusually shaky. Among other things, the long unindented list of plant names on the homepage is totally unworkable, while the site demands you have cookies turned on. Whoever built this site clearly doesn't have a clue, not about copyright, not about usability, and obviously not about acquiring and retaining customers. In a word, they're idiots and we shouldn't expect anything more than a seriously subnormal level of competence -- or is that incompetence? Those of you who have been victimized and who are in a malicious frame of mind may wish to simply send them a notice that your fee for unauthorized use of your pictures is X dollars per image, please send your payment in US dollars immediately or the bill will be turned over to a collection agency for action. I suggest that since the site is commercial, it would be reasonable to set X at $500 or so. Complaints to the ISP that hosts the site may also be in order, with the overt object of having the entire site taken offline. Don't get mad, get even. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island