From growplants@hotmail.com Tue Aug 1 13:12:27 2006 Message-Id: From: "John Manion" Subject: Source for Bulb Images? Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 13:12:26 -0400 Greetings All, Can anyone recommend a source for online photos of bulb plants in flower that I may use without a fee? This is for a brochure I am developing for a fundraising bulb sale this fall at the non-profit arboretum at which I work. I would, of course, give full credit to the photographer(s). A few examples of the plants for which I am seeking good images: Chionodoxa forbesii, Tulipa ‘Ollioules’, Allium sphaerocephalon, A. schubertii, Narcissus ‘Curlew’ , N. ‘Baby Moon’, N. ‘Fruit Cup’, Camassia leichtlinii 'Blue Danube', C. leichtlinii 'Semiplena'. Any help will be very much appreciated, John T. Manion, Curator The Bailey Arboretum, 194 Bayview Road Lattingtown, NY 11560 (516) 571-8020 www.baileyarboretum.org _________________________________________________________________ Try Live.com: where your online world comes together - with news, sports, weather, and much more. http://www.live.com/getstarted From voltaire@islandnet.com Tue Aug 1 14:04:56 2006 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Source for Bulb Images? Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 11:04:29 -0700 If you are buying the bulbs for your sale, the wholesaler would probably have images you can use. They now provide plastic tags for retail customers, so advertising pictures should be available. Diane Whitehead From eagle85@flash.net Tue Aug 1 17:00:53 2006 Message-Id: <7A803DD3-219F-11DB-ADA9-00050277B6E6@flash.net> From: Doug Westfall Subject: Sprekelia howardii seeds Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 13:51:17 -0700 To those who offered advice on pollinating and germinating Sprekelia howardii, not only did the pollinating "system" work, but ONE WEEK after floating half of the seeds, five are sending down a root! We may have some seedlings in a couple or three years. Thanks to those who offered suggestions. Doug Westfall From TalkingPoints@PlantSoup.Com Thu Aug 3 12:24:07 2006 Message-Id: <5B9A5EB4-EDD8-4EB0-BE0E-C9526C7A266A@PlantSoup.Com> From: N Sterman Subject: Source for Bulb Images? Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 09:23:57 -0700 Also, if you go to the on-line bulb sellers, they will probably be willing to share images if you give them credit (it is like free advertising for them so it ends up being a win-win). Be sure you tell them it is for a non-profit arboretum Nan On Aug 1, 2006, at 10:12 AM, John Manion wrote: > Greetings All, > > Can anyone recommend a source for online photos of bulb plants in > flower that I may use without a fee? This is for a brochure I am > developing for a fundraising bulb sale this fall at the non-profit > arboretum at which I work. I would, of course, give full credit to > the photographer(s). A few examples of the plants for which I am > seeking good images: > > Chionodoxa forbesii, Tulipa ‘Ollioules’, Allium sphaerocephalon, > A. schubertii, Narcissus ‘Curlew’ , N. ‘Baby Moon’, N. ‘Fruit > Cup’, Camassia leichtlinii 'Blue Danube', C. leichtlinii > 'Semiplena'. > > Any help will be very much appreciated, > > > John T. Manion, Curator > The Bailey Arboretum, > 194 Bayview Road > Lattingtown, NY 11560 > (516) 571-8020 > www.baileyarboretum.org > _________________________________________________________________ > Try Live.com: where your online world comes together - with news, > sports, weather, and much more. > http://www.live.com/getstarted > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Thu Aug 3 20:18:04 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6b75b$72711b80$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lycoris squamigera Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 20:18:00 -0400 Lycoris squamigera is blooming here in Maryland, both in a neighbor's garden and in my garden. There has been little rain recently, yet these are big, robust stems - and, it seems to me, a bit early. The local temperature got up to 101 degrees F today, and it's been at or near 100 for three days in a row. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, lately the torrid zone. From jshields@indy.net Fri Aug 4 08:22:15 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060804081613.01b77838@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Lycoris squamigera Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2006 08:22:38 -0400 Lycoris squamigera are not in bloom here at my place yet, but 60 miles due west of here, outside Greencastle, Indiana, I saw a yard full of them in flower yesterday. By the way, swallowtail butterflies (Papilio glaucus, P. troilus, and P. philenor) seemed to be nectaring at them. Here in Westfield, I have a couple laggard Lycoris sanguinea in bloom, and scapes up on a couple L. sprengeri. I'll check more carefully for other Lycoris today. We had about 1 inch of rain yesterday, and the weather cooled down to practically comfortable. Regards, Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 08:18 PM 8/3/2006 -0400, Jim McKenney wrote: >Lycoris squamigera is blooming here in Maryland, both in a neighbor's garden >and in my garden. There has been little rain recently, yet these are big, >robust stems - and, it seems to me, a bit early. > >The local temperature got up to 101 degrees F today, and it's been at or >near 100 for three days in a row. > >Jim McKenney >Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, lately the torrid zone. ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From soberano.sol@bol.com.br Fri Aug 4 10:53:40 2006 Message-Id: From: "soberano.sol" Subject: Seeds of Dioscorea discolor Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 10:50:49 -0300 Hi all, I have available for exchange some seeds of Dioscorea discolor (amount very limited). If somebody will be interested party, please writes for the email: soberano_sol@yahoo.com.br Regards, Tarcísio Eduardo Raduenz From growplants@hotmail.com Fri Aug 4 12:16:18 2006 Message-Id: From: "John Manion" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 3 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 12:16:16 -0400 Thanks for your suggestions regarding bulb images. The company from whom we are buying our bulbs does have images we are using, however, some are not as good as I'd like to use. John T. Manion, Curator The Bailey Arboretum 194 Bayview Road Lattingtown, NY 11560 (516) 571-8020 www.baileyarboretum.org ---------------------------------------- > From: pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 3 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 12:00:20 -0400 > > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post: <mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > List-Archive: <http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist> > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Source for Bulb Images? (N Sterman) > 2. Lycoris squamigera (Jim McKenney) > 3. Re: Lycoris squamigera (J.E. Shields) > 4. Seeds of Dioscorea discolor (soberano.sol) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 09:23:57 -0700 > From: N Sterman > Subject: Re: [pbs] Source for Bulb Images? > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <5B9A5EB4-EDD8-4EB0-BE0E-C9526C7A266A@PlantSoup.Com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=WINDOWS-1252; delsp=yes; > format=flowed > > Also, if you go to the on-line bulb sellers, they will probably be > willing to share images if you give them credit (it is like free > advertising for them so it ends up being a win-win). > > Be sure you tell them it is for a non-profit arboretum > > Nan > > On Aug 1, 2006, at 10:12 AM, John Manion wrote: > > > Greetings All, > > > > Can anyone recommend a source for online photos of bulb plants in > > flower that I may use without a fee? This is for a brochure I am > > developing for a fundraising bulb sale this fall at the non-profit > > arboretum at which I work. I would, of course, give full credit to > > the photographer(s). A few examples of the plants for which I am > > seeking good images: > > > > Chionodoxa forbesii, Tulipa ?Ollioules?, Allium sphaerocephalon, > > A. schubertii, Narcissus ?Curlew? , N. ?Baby Moon?, N. ?Fruit > > Cup?, Camassia leichtlinii 'Blue Danube', C. leichtlinii > > 'Semiplena'. > > > > Any help will be very much appreciated, > > > > > > John T. Manion, Curator > > The Bailey Arboretum, > > 194 Bayview Road > > Lattingtown, NY 11560 > > (516) 571-8020 > > www.baileyarboretum.org > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Try Live.com: where your online world comes together - with news, > > sports, weather, and much more. > > http://www.live.com/getstarted > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 20:18:00 -0400 > From: "Jim McKenney" > Subject: [pbs] Lycoris squamigera > To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" > Message-ID: <000001c6b75b$72711b80$2f01a8c0@Library> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Lycoris squamigera is blooming here in Maryland, both in a neighbor's garden > and in my garden. There has been little rain recently, yet these are big, > robust stems - and, it seems to me, a bit early. > > The local temperature got up to 101 degrees F today, and it's been at or > near 100 for three days in a row. > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, lately the torrid zone. > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2006 08:22:38 -0400 > From: "J.E. Shields" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris squamigera > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20060804081613.01b77838@pop.indy.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > Lycoris squamigera are not in bloom here at my place yet, but 60 miles due > west of here, outside Greencastle, Indiana, I saw a yard full of them in > flower yesterday. By the way, swallowtail butterflies (Papilio glaucus, P. > troilus, and P. philenor) seemed to be nectaring at them. > > Here in Westfield, I have a couple laggard Lycoris sanguinea in bloom, and > scapes up on a couple L. sprengeri. I'll check more carefully for other > Lycoris today. > > We had about 1 inch of rain yesterday, and the weather cooled down to > practically comfortable. > > Regards, > Jim Shields > in central Indiana (USA) > > At 08:18 PM 8/3/2006 -0400, Jim McKenney wrote: > >Lycoris squamigera is blooming here in Maryland, both in a neighbor's garden > >and in my garden. There has been little rain recently, yet these are big, > >robust stems - and, it seems to me, a bit early. > > > >The local temperature got up to 101 degrees F today, and it's been at or > >near 100 for three days in a row. > > > >Jim McKenney > >Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, lately the torrid zone. > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 10:50:49 -0300 > From: "soberano.sol" > Subject: [pbs] Seeds of Dioscorea discolor > To: "pbs" > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > > Hi all, > > I have available for exchange some seeds of Dioscorea discolor > (amount very limited). > If somebody will be interested party, please writes for the email: > soberano_sol@yahoo.com.br > > Regards, > > Tarc?sio Eduardo Raduenz > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 3 > ********************************** _________________________________________________________________ Try Live.com - your fast, personalized homepage with all the things you care about in one place. http://www.live.com/getstarted From eagle85@flash.net Fri Aug 4 14:44:29 2006 Message-Id: From: Doug Westfall Subject: Scadoxus nutans seeds Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 11:34:47 -0700 Is there anyone out there who knows how long it takes for Scadoxus nutans seeds to "ripen"? Doug Westfall From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Aug 4 16:33:37 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Brutal Lycoris season Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 15:31:30 -0500 Dear all - The notes about bloom remind me about our brutal hot dry summer. I have three Lycoris in bloom: 1 plant of L. squamigera in the shade; 2 stalks about 3/4 full height 2 stalks of L. longituba in 2 spots, both shorter than typical. 1 6 inch stem of L. chinensis. Pitiful. In previous years of drought, these species and others simply did not even try to bloom until we had a good penetrating rain fall. I am assuming and hoping the plants, "know best" and are awaiting the rain so they can reach full height and vigor. It has been pretty awful here for any bulbs with reduce flowering, shorter stalks, distorted blooms or buds that wither before opening. Actually pretty amazing that some even 'try'. Enough Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From Blee811@aol.com Sat Aug 5 00:11:51 2006 Message-Id: <393.87898c9.32057480@aol.com> From: Blee811@aol.com Subject: Brutal Lycoris season Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 00:11:44 EDT In a message dated 8/4/2006 4:34:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, jwaddick@kc.rr.com writes: 1 plant of L. squamigera in the shade; 2 stalks about 3/4 full height 2 stalks of L. longituba in 2 spots, both shorter than typical. 1 6 inch stem of L. chinensis. Pitiful. Here in the Cincinnati area, Jim, we have had better rainfall, although currently "enjoying" intense heat and humidity. The L. squamigera in two different areas, although all in shade, are normal height and blooming their hearts out. The L. radiata that Conroe Joe so graciously offered are in a different area and two are showing some leaves---I don't think that's what they're supposed to be doing right now! Bill Lee From daffodil@xnet.co.nz Sat Aug 5 09:49:29 2006 Message-Id: <003301c6b895$f7fc41e0$0200a8c0@Dads> From: "Bill Dijk" Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 01:46:55 +1200 Hi Folks, I noticed one of my photos on Ebay at this address; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cyrtanthus-Elatus-Delicata-bulb_W0QQitemZ270013650504QQihZ017QQcategoryZ42207QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting I don't mind sharing, with permission and proper identification, This person did not even bother asking, especially when used for commercial purposes. I don't know this person, or how to contact him/her on Ebay What can/should I do ? Ask this person to remove my picture ? Best wishes, Bill Dijk Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. From hornig@usadatanet.net Sat Aug 5 10:08:43 2006 Message-Id: <380-2200686514546515@M2W025.mail2web.com> From: "hornig@usadatanet.net" Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 10:05:46 -0400 Hi Bill - usually a brief and firm note to the seller will have the desired result. If it doesn't, you can file a complaint with eBay (you just have to look for the appropriate links on the Home page). I've found that the folks at eBay respond very quickly and effectively to such complaints (also, FYI, to complaints about people who routinely end auctions early if they aren't bringing the desired price). There are actually human beings behind that huge institution - ! Ellen Hornig Seneca Hill Perennials Oswego NY USA Original Message: ----------------- From: Bill Dijk daffodil@xnet.co.nz Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 01:46:55 +1200 To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Wiki pictures used without permission Hi Folks, I noticed one of my photos on Ebay at this address; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cyrtanthus-Elatus-Delicata-bulb_W0QQitemZ270013650504 QQihZ017QQcategoryZ42207QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting I don't mind sharing, with permission and proper identification, This person did not even bother asking, especially when used for commercial purposes. I don't know this person, or how to contact him/her on Ebay What can/should I do ? Ask this person to remove my picture ? Best wishes, Bill Dijk Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . From mark@marksgardenplants.com Sat Aug 5 10:16:12 2006 Message-Id: <00df01c6b899$b1b62850$02fb8f56@galanthophile> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 15:16:07 +0100 Bill that one has ended but your image has been used again to sell another which has 5 days left. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cyrtanthus-Elatus-Delicata-bulb_W0QQitemZ270015396204QQihZ017QQcategoryZ42207QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem You have two choices 1. demand your image is removed and add a link to your photo. right hand side meet the seller then below that ask seller a question. Demand it be removed 2. fax ebay who will remove the sale. http://pages.ebay.co.uk/help/community/copyright-infringement.pdf This is the UK complaint form. Print it, fill it in and I'll look for the Australian complaint fax number From mark@marksgardenplants.com Sat Aug 5 10:21:09 2006 Message-Id: <00e801c6b89a$62b0dbf0$02fb8f56@galanthophile> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 15:21:04 +0100 here is the Australian complaint form http://pages.ebay.com.au/help/community/NOCI1.pdf I no longer ask for my images to be removed. I fax ebay to remove the listing Mark From c-mueller@tamu.edu Sat Aug 5 12:09:18 2006 Message-Id: <44D47C46.E5F2.008A.0@ag.tamu.edu> From: "Cynthia Mueller" Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2006 11:08:54 -0500 Bill: I looked at the item on the Australian e-Bay. The people's names are evidently Milton and Wendy Edwards. If you will look near the top of the entry, on the righthand side, there is a link called "Ask seller a question" or somesuch. Click this, and give them an earful! Cynthia Mueller College Station TX >>> "Bill Dijk" 8/5/2006 8:46 AM >>> Hi Folks, I noticed one of my photos on Ebay at this address; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cyrtanthus-Elatus-Delicata-bulb_W0QQitemZ270013650504QQihZ017QQcategoryZ42207QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting I don't mind sharing, with permission and proper identification, This person did not even bother asking, especially when used for commercial purposes. I don't know this person, or how to contact him/her on Ebay What can/should I do ? Ask this person to remove my picture ? Best wishes, Bill Dijk Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From irisman@ameritech.net Sat Aug 5 13:09:15 2006 Message-Id: <000601c6b8b1$8fa03040$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 4 Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 12:06:57 -0500 Hello Bill? On the right hand side of the eBay display, there is a line which says-- ask the seller a question--click on this and you will be able to state your concern. If he does not respond after a couple of tries and you've given him/her time to respond, s/he can be reported to eBay who would probably at least frown on his unauthorized use. I'd not assume that he is misbehaving. Many people are unaware that such pictures are not necessarily in the public domain--which is why it's good to have your name on them and some growers do, e.g., Henk Wouters, Mauro Peixotto . Regards, Adam ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 11:00 AM Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 4 > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post: <mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > List-Archive: <http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist> > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 3 (John Manion) > 2. Scadoxus nutans seeds (Doug Westfall) > 3. Brutal Lycoris season (James Waddick) > 4. Re: Brutal Lycoris season (Blee811@aol.com) > 5. Wiki pictures used without permission (Bill Dijk) > 6. Re: Wiki pictures used without permission (hornig@usadatanet.net) > 7. Re: Wiki pictures used without permission (Mark Smyth) > 8. Re: Wiki pictures used without permission (Mark Smyth) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 12:16:16 -0400 > From: "John Manion" > Subject: Re: [pbs] pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 3 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Thanks for your suggestions regarding bulb images. The company from whom > we are buying our bulbs does have images we are using, however, some are > not as good as I'd like to use. > > > John T. Manion, Curator > The Bailey Arboretum > 194 Bayview Road > Lattingtown, NY 11560 > (516) 571-8020 > www.baileyarboretum.org > > ---------------------------------------- >> From: pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org >> Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 3 >> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 12:00:20 -0400 >> >> Send pbs mailing list submissions to >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> >> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to >> pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org >> >> You can reach the person managing the list at >> pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org >> >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >> than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." >> >> >> List-Post: <mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> >> List-Archive: <http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist> >> >> Today's Topics: >> >> 1. Re: Source for Bulb Images? (N Sterman) >> 2. Lycoris squamigera (Jim McKenney) >> 3. Re: Lycoris squamigera (J.E. Shields) >> 4. Seeds of Dioscorea discolor (soberano.sol) >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> Message: 1 >> Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 09:23:57 -0700 >> From: N Sterman >> Subject: Re: [pbs] Source for Bulb Images? >> To: Pacific Bulb Society >> Message-ID: <5B9A5EB4-EDD8-4EB0-BE0E-C9526C7A266A@PlantSoup.Com> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=WINDOWS-1252; delsp=yes; >> format=flowed >> >> Also, if you go to the on-line bulb sellers, they will probably be >> willing to share images if you give them credit (it is like free >> advertising for them so it ends up being a win-win). >> >> Be sure you tell them it is for a non-profit arboretum >> >> Nan >> >> On Aug 1, 2006, at 10:12 AM, John Manion wrote: >> >> > Greetings All, >> > >> > Can anyone recommend a source for online photos of bulb plants in >> > flower that I may use without a fee? This is for a brochure I am >> > developing for a fundraising bulb sale this fall at the non-profit >> > arboretum at which I work. I would, of course, give full credit to >> > the photographer(s). A few examples of the plants for which I am >> > seeking good images: >> > >> > Chionodoxa forbesii, Tulipa ?Ollioules?, Allium sphaerocephalon, >> > A. schubertii, Narcissus ?Curlew? , N. ?Baby Moon?, N. ?Fruit >> > Cup?, Camassia leichtlinii 'Blue Danube', C. leichtlinii >> > 'Semiplena'. >> > >> > Any help will be very much appreciated, >> > >> > >> > John T. Manion, Curator >> > The Bailey Arboretum, >> > 194 Bayview Road >> > Lattingtown, NY 11560 >> > (516) 571-8020 >> > www.baileyarboretum.org >> > _________________________________________________________________ >> > Try Live.com: where your online world comes together - with news, >> > sports, weather, and much more. >> > http://www.live.com/getstarted >> > _______________________________________________ >> > pbs mailing list >> > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 2 >> Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 20:18:00 -0400 >> From: "Jim McKenney" >> Subject: [pbs] Lycoris squamigera >> To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" >> Message-ID: <000001c6b75b$72711b80$2f01a8c0@Library> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> Lycoris squamigera is blooming here in Maryland, both in a neighbor's >> garden >> and in my garden. There has been little rain recently, yet these are big, >> robust stems - and, it seems to me, a bit early. >> >> The local temperature got up to 101 degrees F today, and it's been at or >> near 100 for three days in a row. >> >> Jim McKenney >> Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, lately the torrid zone. >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 3 >> Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2006 08:22:38 -0400 >> From: "J.E. Shields" >> Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris squamigera >> To: Pacific Bulb Society >> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20060804081613.01b77838@pop.indy.net> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >> >> Lycoris squamigera are not in bloom here at my place yet, but 60 miles >> due >> west of here, outside Greencastle, Indiana, I saw a yard full of them in >> flower yesterday. By the way, swallowtail butterflies (Papilio glaucus, >> P. >> troilus, and P. philenor) seemed to be nectaring at them. >> >> Here in Westfield, I have a couple laggard Lycoris sanguinea in bloom, >> and >> scapes up on a couple L. sprengeri. I'll check more carefully for other >> Lycoris today. >> >> We had about 1 inch of rain yesterday, and the weather cooled down to >> practically comfortable. >> >> Regards, >> Jim Shields >> in central Indiana (USA) >> >> At 08:18 PM 8/3/2006 -0400, Jim McKenney wrote: >> >Lycoris squamigera is blooming here in Maryland, both in a neighbor's >> >garden >> >and in my garden. There has been little rain recently, yet these are >> >big, >> >robust stems - and, it seems to me, a bit early. >> > >> >The local temperature got up to 101 degrees F today, and it's been at or >> >near 100 for three days in a row. >> > >> >Jim McKenney >> >Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, lately the torrid zone. >> >> ************************************************* >> Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. >> P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ >> Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA >> Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 4 >> Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 10:50:49 -0300 >> From: "soberano.sol" >> Subject: [pbs] Seeds of Dioscorea discolor >> To: "pbs" >> Message-ID: >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 >> >> Hi all, >> >> I have available for exchange some seeds of Dioscorea discolor >> (amount very limited). >> If somebody will be interested party, please writes for the email: >> soberano_sol@yahoo.com.br >> >> Regards, >> >> Tarc?sio Eduardo Raduenz >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> >> >> End of pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 3 >> ********************************** > > _________________________________________________________________ > Try Live.com - your fast, personalized homepage with all the things you > care about in one place. > http://www.live.com/getstarted > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 11:34:47 -0700 > From: Doug Westfall > Subject: [pbs] Scadoxus nutans seeds > To: PBS members > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed > > Is there anyone out there who knows how long it takes for Scadoxus > nutans seeds to "ripen"? > > Doug Westfall > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 15:31:30 -0500 > From: James Waddick > Subject: [pbs] Brutal Lycoris season > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" > > Dear all - > The notes about bloom remind me about our brutal hot dry > summer. I have three Lycoris in bloom: > > 1 plant of L. squamigera in the shade; 2 stalks about 3/4 full height > 2 stalks of L. longituba in 2 spots, both shorter than typical. > 1 6 inch stem of L. chinensis. Pitiful. > > In previous years of drought, these species and others simply > did not even try to bloom until we had a good penetrating rain fall. > I am assuming and hoping the plants, "know best" and are awaiting the > rain so they can reach full height and vigor. > > It has been pretty awful here for any bulbs with reduce > flowering, shorter stalks, distorted blooms or buds that wither > before opening. Actually pretty amazing that some even 'try'. > > Enough Jim W. > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 00:11:44 EDT > From: Blee811@aol.com > Subject: Re: [pbs] Brutal Lycoris season > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <393.87898c9.32057480@aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > In a message dated 8/4/2006 4:34:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > jwaddick@kc.rr.com writes: > 1 plant of L. squamigera in the shade; 2 stalks about 3/4 full height > 2 stalks of L. longituba in 2 spots, both shorter than typical. > 1 6 inch stem of L. chinensis. Pitiful. > > Here in the Cincinnati area, Jim, we have had better rainfall, although > currently "enjoying" intense heat and humidity. The L. squamigera in two > different areas, although all in shade, are normal height and blooming > their hearts > out. > > The L. radiata that Conroe Joe so graciously offered are in a different > area > and two are showing some leaves---I don't think that's what they're > supposed > to be doing right now! > Bill Lee > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 01:46:55 +1200 > From: "Bill Dijk" > Subject: [pbs] Wiki pictures used without permission > To: "PBS" > Message-ID: <003301c6b895$f7fc41e0$0200a8c0@Dads> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=response > > Hi Folks, > > I noticed one of my photos on Ebay at this address; > > http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cyrtanthus-Elatus-Delicata-bulb_W0QQitemZ270013650504QQihZ017QQcategoryZ42207QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting > > I don't mind sharing, with permission and proper identification, > This person did not even bother asking, especially when used for > commercial > purposes. > I don't know this person, or how to contact him/her on Ebay > What can/should I do ? Ask this person to remove my picture ? > > Best wishes, > > Bill Dijk > > > Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. > Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. > Temp.mean max.Summer : 25?C. Winter:15?C. > Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5?C. Winter: 5?C. > Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 10:05:46 -0400 > From: "hornig@usadatanet.net" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Wiki pictures used without permission > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <380-2200686514546515@M2W025.mail2web.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > > Hi Bill - usually a brief and firm note to the seller will have the > desired > result. If it doesn't, you can file a complaint with eBay (you just have > to look for the appropriate links on the Home page). I've found that the > folks at eBay respond very quickly and effectively to such complaints > (also, FYI, to complaints about people who routinely end auctions early if > they aren't bringing the desired price). There are actually human beings > behind that huge institution - ! > > Ellen Hornig > Seneca Hill Perennials > Oswego NY USA > > > Original Message: > ----------------- > From: Bill Dijk daffodil@xnet.co.nz > Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 01:46:55 +1200 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Wiki pictures used without permission > > > Hi Folks, > > I noticed one of my photos on Ebay at this address; > > http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cyrtanthus-Elatus-Delicata-bulb_W0QQitemZ270013650504 > QQihZ017QQcategoryZ42207QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting > > I don't mind sharing, with permission and proper identification, > This person did not even bother asking, especially when used for > commercial > purposes. > I don't know this person, or how to contact him/her on Ebay > What can/should I do ? Ask this person to remove my picture ? > > Best wishes, > > Bill Dijk > > > Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. > Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. > Temp.mean max.Summer : 25?C. Winter:15?C. > Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5?C. Winter: 5?C. > Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > mail2web - Check your email from the web at > http://mail2web.com/ . > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 15:16:07 +0100 > From: "Mark Smyth" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Wiki pictures used without permission > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: <00df01c6b899$b1b62850$02fb8f56@galanthophile> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > Bill that one has ended but your image has been used again to sell another > which has 5 days left. > http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cyrtanthus-Elatus-Delicata-bulb_W0QQitemZ270015396204QQihZ017QQcategoryZ42207QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > > You have two choices > 1. demand your image is removed and add a link to your photo. right hand > side meet the seller then below that ask seller a question. Demand it be > removed > 2. fax ebay who will remove the sale. > http://pages.ebay.co.uk/help/community/copyright-infringement.pdf This is > the UK complaint form. Print it, fill it in and I'll look for the > Australian > complaint fax number > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 15:21:04 +0100 > From: "Mark Smyth" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Wiki pictures used without permission > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: <00e801c6b89a$62b0dbf0$02fb8f56@galanthophile> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > here is the Australian complaint form > http://pages.ebay.com.au/help/community/NOCI1.pdf > > I no longer ask for my images to be removed. I fax ebay to remove the > listing > > Mark > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 4 > ********************************** > From dkramb@badbear.com Sat Aug 5 17:42:21 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060805174213.01ad5150@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2006 17:42:41 -0400 You can click on "Ask the seller a question" and ask why they're using your photos without permission. :-) Dennis in Ohio From msittner@mcn.org Sat Aug 5 20:37:11 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060805172811.029e82e8@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Cyrtanthus epiphyticus Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2006 17:36:34 -0700 Blooming now from BX seed offered by Ernie O'Bryne in January 2004 is Cyrtanthus epiphyticus. My flowers don't look like the ones that are pictured on the wiki from Bill Dijk, but they do match the description in the Pooley books of this species. Any comments from anyone about this species? Bill wrote that it is a spring blooming species and I'm wondering if Ernie's blooms in spring and if mine is out of sync. Also the Pooley books describe this one as red. I remember our discussion about favorite colors and there is a wide range of difference of opinions of what is blue versus purple and red versus orange. My plants I'd describe as orange. Regardless, I'm happy with them and hope I can keep them alive as some of the Cyrtanthus I have grown from seed has gone to the happy hunting ground after they bloomed. Thanks Ernie for sharing your seed. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Cyrtanthus#epiphyticus Mary Sue From daffodil@xnet.co.nz Sat Aug 5 20:48:28 2006 Message-Id: <008c01c6b8f2$0605d600$0200a8c0@Dads> From: "Bill Dijk" Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 12:48:20 +1200 Hi Folks, Thanks everyone for the quick response, regarding wiki pictures used without permission. Have contacted/asked the seller for an urgent explanation/reply. Otherwise........ Best wishes, Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cynthia Mueller" To: "PBS" Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 4:08 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Wiki pictures used without permission Bill: I looked at the item on the Australian e-Bay. The people's names are evidently Milton and Wendy Edwards. If you will look near the top of the entry, on the righthand side, there is a link called "Ask seller a question" or somesuch. Click this, and give them an earful! Cynthia Mueller College Station TX >>> "Bill Dijk" 8/5/2006 8:46 AM >>> Hi Folks, I noticed one of my photos (again) on Ebay at this address; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cyrtanthus-Elatus-Delicata-bulb_W0QQitemZ270013650504QQihZ017QQcategoryZ42207QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting I don't mind sharing, with permission and proper identification, This person did not even bother asking, especially when used for commercial purposes. I don't know this person, or how to contact him/her on Ebay What can/should I do ? Ask this person to remove my picture ? Best wishes, Bill Dijk Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.7/409 - Release Date: 4/08/2006 From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Sun Aug 6 03:45:53 2006 Message-Id: <002401c6b92c$567efbe0$bf471b56@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Cyrtanthus epiphyticus Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 08:45:47 +0100 I've grown Cyrtanthus epiphyticus for some time, from a collection made in South Africa by Panayoti Kelaidis in the 90s, and I've also seen it in the wild growing in the turf (not up a tree!) at Naude's Nek and elsewhere in the Drakensberg. In my experience the corolla lobes flare outwards, as in the photographs by Mary Sue, but not Bill Dyke's. I would describe the colour as orange-red. I find that the different bulbs in the pot flower at different times during the summer, but in my experience it is a summer-growing, summer-flowering plant. I dry off the pot as the plants go dormant in autumn and keep it cool & dry all winter, usually resurrecting it in April, with repotting every 2-3 years. The bulbs don't seem to increase vegetatively. I've not yet risked a bulb outside, but most of its congeners in the wild are hardy here so I ought to be a bit bolder. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mary Sue Ittner" To: Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 1:36 AM Subject: [pbs] Cyrtanthus epiphyticus > Blooming now from BX seed offered by Ernie O'Bryne in January 2004 is > Cyrtanthus epiphyticus. My flowers don't look like the ones that are > pictured on the wiki from Bill Dijk, but they do match the description in > the Pooley books of this species. Any comments from anyone about this > species? From africanbulbs@haznet.co.za Sun Aug 6 16:52:47 2006 Message-Id: <004901c6b99a$43a09f60$813ed0c4@MECER> From: "African Bulbs" Subject: Scadoxus nutans seed Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 18:19:04 +0200 Doug We don't grow S. nutans, but with S. katharinae, S. membranaceus and S. puniceus, it can take up to four months - wait until you see the green berries change colour to orange or red, then clean out the seeds inside, rinse and dry them for a day or two before sowing - make sure all the membrane/pulp is cleaned off the seed. We usually keep them in an icecream tub and wait for them to send out a radicle before sowing (like most fleshy-seeded amaryllids, the seeds need light and should be visible above ground when sowing). Some Scadoxus will grow a bulb and roots in the first year, but no leaves - in the second season the leaves appear. Rhoda McMaster Napier, SA Good winter rains, a very good spring flower season starting in the W.Cape From eagle85@flash.net Sun Aug 6 19:07:19 2006 Message-Id: From: Doug Westfall Subject: Scadoxus nutans seed Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 15:57:37 -0700 On Sunday, August 6, 2006, at 09:19 AM, African Bulbs wrote: > Rhoda McMaster > Napier, SA Thanks, Rhoda, This is the first time that I have had S. nutans bloom. I do have a good collection of Scadoxus, and most of them have bloomed. The only one that has not set seeds is S cinnabarinus, but it has bloomed only once a year ago. Thanks again. Doug Westfall From eob@peak.org Sun Aug 6 21:39:10 2006 Message-Id: From: "Ernie O'Byrne" Subject: Cyrtanthus epiphyticus Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 18:38:56 -0700 I should mention that when we were visiting S. Africa we did not have very good references for ID. We only had The Flora of the Natal Drakensberg by Donald Killick and The Botany of the Southern Natal Drakensberg by Hilliard and Burtt. Somewhere between the collection which was listed as aff. epiphyticus and the planting into the garden the aff. was lost. It is not a positive ID, but seemed most likely at the time based on the books we had and the info in the various botanical areas that we visited that had samples with ID. We collected the seed in January, '96 on Naude's Nek right above the parking area at the hairpin turn below the pass, up near the cliff face. There were some also growing, not in rock crevices, as the literature states, but in the very rocky meadow area below the cliffs. Ours is just finished flowering and I would describe it as orange also, although both Hilliard & Burtt and the newer Mountain Flowers: a Field Guide to the Flora of the Drakensberg and Lesotho by Elsa Pooley show an "orange" flower cluster and describe the color as red. Color desription are very cultural, though. My wife (who is German) and I used to argue over the color line between orange and red frequently, her "red" going well into my "orange". Interestingly, she has been acculturated over the years of living here (we now agree) and now cannot even remember those discussionsof thirty years ago. Perhaps Panayoti would have an opinion re whether C. epiphyticus grows in that particular spot, or whether another Cyrtanthus does. Sadly a freeze of 17 degrees F. in February this year, just about wiped me out. I only had one plant blooming this year, whereas last there must have been 25-30 inflorencences. Apologies for not being more accurate with the nomenclature. Ernie O'Byrne Northwest Garden Nursery 86813 Central Road Eugene, ORegon 97402 USA USDA Z. 7B "Most stern moralists are in the habit of thinking of pleasure as only of the senses, and, when they eschew the pleasures of sense, they do not notice that the pleasures of power, which to men of their temperament are far more attractive, have not been brought within the ban of their ascetic self-denial." -- Bertrand Russell -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 5:37 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Cyrtanthus epiphyticus Blooming now from BX seed offered by Ernie O'Bryne in January 2004 is Cyrtanthus epiphyticus. My flowers don't look like the ones that are pictured on the wiki from Bill Dijk, From PameladAZ@aol.com Mon Aug 7 10:36:41 2006 Message-Id: <464.6832cc80.3208a9f1@aol.com> From: PameladAZ@aol.com Subject: Allium schubertii Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2006 10:36:33 EDT I have collected seed from my Allium schubertii and would appreciate any information on growing them. I have raised beds or could use pot culture - all within a shade house. Thanks much! Pamela P Slate, Master Gardener P.O. Box 5134 Carefree AZ 85377 480.488.8453 From totototo@telus.net Mon Aug 7 12:28:54 2006 Message-Id: <20060807162848.18CARXQM7K@priv-edtnaa06.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Piracy of Wiki Pictures, was Re: pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 4 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2006 09:28:11 -0700 On 5 Aug 06, at 12:06, Adam Fikso wrote: > Many people are unaware that such pictures are not necessarily in > the public domain. That excuse is threadbare. By now everyone knows that stuff on the net is NOT PD. The thing that's sad is that most of us, if asked nicely, would probably be happy to give permission. PS: Would you please learn to trim digests down to the post you are responding to, and that only the relevant points, instead of quoting the whole thing holus-bolus? Many email clients can quote selectively if you want, which makes this very easy. Even without such a feature, however, it's pretty inconsiderate of other subscribers to quote as you have. Further PS: Please also learn to change the subject line to match the actual content of your message. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 13:51:00 2006 Message-Id: <259F19ED.5315830D@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 17:51:00 -0000 Dear Bill: The responses to your question from various people I feel are most polite, but, in my opinion, not strong enough. If the source of the photo used clearly state "not to be used without permission" or words to that effect, I would suggest: 1. Ebay be informed. 2. An invoice be sent to those who used the photo. 3. Ask that Ebay institute a policy stating all photos used if not the property of the user, must carry the permission of the owner for its use.. 4. Inform the Garden Writers Association that such as occurred and what is their position on such things. This might seem 'strong' but such piracy should/must be stopped. Cheers, John E. Bryan Bill Dijk wrote: > > Hi Folks, > > I noticed one of my photos on Ebay at this address; > > http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cyrtanthus-Elatus-Delicata-bulb_W0QQitemZ270013650504QQihZ017QQcategoryZ42207QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting > > I don't mind sharing, with permission and proper identification, > This person did not even bother asking, especially when used for commercial > purposes. > I don't know this person, or how to contact him/her on Ebay > What can/should I do ? Ask this person to remove my picture ? > > Best wishes, > > Bill Dijk > > Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. > Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. > Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. > Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. > Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From mark@marksgardenplants.com Mon Aug 7 14:05:09 2006 Message-Id: <006701c6ba4b$f8eb46c0$fa398c56@galanthophile> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Wiki pictures used without permission Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2006 19:04:48 +0100 I am never polite to them. What I would normally say cant be put on here. I do start the ball rolling for a laugh by asking what camera they used to take the photo. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Bryan" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Monday, January 01, 1990 9:50 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Wiki pictures used without permission Dear Bill: The responses to your question from various people I feel are most polite, but, in my opinion, not strong enough. If the source of the photo used clearly state "not to be used without permission" or words to that effect, I would suggest: 1. Ebay be informed. 2. An invoice be sent to those who used the photo. 3. Ask that Ebay institute a policy stating all photos used if not the property of the user, must carry the permission of the owner for its use.. 4. Inform the Garden Writers Association that such as occurred and what is their position on such things. This might seem 'strong' but such piracy should/must be stopped. Cheers, John E. Bryan From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Mon Aug 7 14:09:14 2006 Message-Id: <44D781B9.3060203@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Brutal Lycoris season Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 13:08:57 -0500 It has been really hot! My Lycoris beds are showing some bloom. A number of Lycoris squamigera shot up stalks starting the 26th, I believe. Around here, you can count on or about the 25th every year with differences only in quantity of bloom, I suppose, based on weather. We got a good rain Friday and some L. sprengeri, sanguinea, and longituba are poking up spikes. I have been dripping another bed which has had a single xhaywardii (before I started dripping) come up, some houdyshelii, an unnamed (lost label) from Jim W. that looks a lot like houdy, radiata pumila, and longituba x sprengeri (or vica versa), again from Jim W. I miss your little sales, Jim... If you've only recently planted them (since 05), Bill, they are probably just playing catchup. If the same bulbs have leafed out for you at the proper time before, I wouldn't know why they are coming up now. Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 10846 Hodge Ln Gravette, AR 72736 479-366-4968 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ Blee811@aol.com wrote: > The L. radiata that Conroe Joe so graciously offered are in a different area > and two are showing some leaves---I don't think that's what they're supposed > to be doing right now! > Bill Lee From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Mon Aug 7 14:25:24 2006 Message-Id: <44D7858A.1090508@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Brutal Lycoris season Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 13:25:14 -0500 Correction: Lycoris xhaywardii x L. longituba, not sprengeri. Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 10846 Hodge Ln Gravette, AR 72736 479-366-4968 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ Kelly Irvin wrote: > pumila, and longituba x sprengeri (or vica versa), again from Jim W. I From msittner@mcn.org Mon Aug 7 16:52:16 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060807132424.02b41488@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Using Wiki Photos Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 13:50:59 -0700 All this discussion about someone using Bill's photos without permission is a great lead in to a dilemma that we wiki administrators face. Some of you may recall that I discovered that a number of our wiki pictures used without permission were on a German web site illustrating items for sale. I wrote to ask to have them removed, but the owner was on vacation so recently I wrote him again and he has removed the pictures that I told him about. There were ones of mine and my husband, and a few from Bob Werra and Cameron McMaster. There may have been others, but these are the ones I could recognize since I added them to the wiki. John Lonsdale asked to have some of his Crocus pictures taken off so I asked to have them removed too, but no one else responded and I didn't have time to check for everyone. We now have more than 200 subdirectories on our wiki with at least 3 pictures in them and in some cases (Allium, Crinum, Iris, Narcissus, Calochortus, Moraea to name a few) several hundred pictures in those subdirectories. So there is no way possible for me to keep up with them all. Most of the people who have added pictures to the wiki have not included a way to contact them to ask permission to use their photos. A lot of the wiki users have wiki pages, but these pages do not included email addresses in most cases. So if someone wanted to ask permission to use a specific photo they would have to write to the list or wiki administrators and we'd have to pass the emails on. This happens from time to time and we do our best to respond. In the course of emailing about the latest photos used without permission, the owner wrote back, "I thought about offering a seed voucher of some € 5.00 (US$ 6.40) per foto plus a copyright note in the species’ description" so he could use photos from the wiki. We wiki administrators have discussed this and there is not one of us that has either the time or the inclination to take the project on of contacting list members whose photos he might want to use to get permission. There was a suggestion that we could post the name of the photos wanted on the list and if people saw their names, they could contact him privately, but that seems a bit off topic to me and not something I really want to encourage either. Here is the website: http://www.rareplants.de/shop If any of you have photographs to illustrate what he is selling and are willing to share them in return for a credit and a copyright note, I invite you to contact him and give your permission. Mary Sue From J.Joschko@gmx.de Mon Aug 7 17:11:03 2006 Message-Id: From: "J. Joschko" Subject: new email adress Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2006 23:11:09 +0200 Hi all , Please note that from now has changed my email adress to this new : J.Joschko@gmx.de My old email adress (buj.....) will be deactivated in few days . Best wishes Hans From jshaw@opuntiads.com Mon Aug 7 18:50:55 2006 Message-Id: <001b01c6ba73$f2c43c70$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: bulbs for foliage Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2006 17:50:55 -0500 Hi Gang, When I was growing up Morea iridiodes was commonly employed in landscapes (southern California). Now, I think I see the same plant along the Gulf Coast (Greater Houston area). The plant has seen several name changes over time and seems to be most commonly called Dietes iridiodes in the nursery trade. I never really cared for the flowers, they were plentiful but ephemeral. However, seeing them planted here and there in zone 9b (maybe 9a 1/2) I do like the foliage. It is sort of like Iris 'Contraband Girl,' every bit as tall but not as coarse--and maybe darker. There are other geophytes that I grow for foliage including red-leaved Crinum, some sort of bulb-like Aloe species, a few Colocasia or Alocasia types, and some Canna hybrids with bright leaves, etc. QUESTION: Are there other geophytes, or wannabe geophytes, that make a nice foliage display as does the fortnight lily (or Iris 'Contraband Girl')? I'm mostly looking for the grass-like foliage that is on the hardy side. Maybe I'm dreaming but a few more things must be out there. I'm thinking to try a few plants of the Restionaceae, but they are not really geophytes and they might be too tall for what I'm really wishing to find. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX Not too hot today, scattered rain, humidity high. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 11:00 AM Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 6 > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post: <mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > List-Archive: <http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist> > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Scadoxus nutans seed (African Bulbs) > 2. Re: Scadoxus nutans seed (Doug Westfall) > 3. Re: Cyrtanthus epiphyticus (Ernie O'Byrne) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 18:19:04 +0200 > From: "African Bulbs" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Scadoxus nutans seed > To: > Message-ID: <004901c6b99a$43a09f60$813ed0c4@MECER> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Doug > We don't grow S. nutans, but with S. katharinae, S. membranaceus and S. > puniceus, it can take up to four months - wait until you see the green > berries change colour to orange or red, then clean out the seeds inside, > rinse and dry them for a day or two before sowing - make sure all the > membrane/pulp is cleaned off the seed. We usually keep them in an icecream > tub and wait for them to send out a radicle before sowing (like most > fleshy-seeded amaryllids, the seeds need light and should be visible above > ground when sowing). Some Scadoxus will grow a bulb and roots in the first > year, but no leaves - in the second season the leaves appear. > Rhoda McMaster > Napier, SA > Good winter rains, a very good spring flower season starting in the W.Cape > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 15:57:37 -0700 > From: Doug Westfall > Subject: Re: [pbs] Scadoxus nutans seed > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed > > > On Sunday, August 6, 2006, at 09:19 AM, African Bulbs wrote: > >> Rhoda McMaster >> Napier, SA > > Thanks, Rhoda, > > This is the first time that I have had S. nutans bloom. I do have a > good collection of Scadoxus, and most of them have bloomed. The only > one that has not set seeds is S cinnabarinus, but it has bloomed only > once a year ago. > > Thanks again. > > Doug Westfall > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 18:38:56 -0700 > From: "Ernie O'Byrne" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Cyrtanthus epiphyticus > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I should mention that when we were visiting S. Africa we did not have very > good references for ID. We only had The Flora of the Natal Drakensberg by > Donald Killick and The Botany of the Southern Natal Drakensberg by > Hilliard > and Burtt. Somewhere between the collection which was listed as aff. > epiphyticus and the planting into the garden the aff. was lost. It is not > a > positive ID, but seemed most likely at the time based on the books we had > and the info in the various botanical areas that we visited that had > samples > with ID. We collected the seed in January, '96 on Naude's Nek right above > the parking area at the hairpin turn below the pass, up near the cliff > face. > There were some also growing, not in rock crevices, as the literature > states, but in the very rocky meadow area below the cliffs. > > Ours is just finished flowering and I would describe it as orange also, > although both Hilliard & Burtt and the newer Mountain Flowers: a Field > Guide > to the Flora of the Drakensberg and Lesotho by Elsa Pooley show an > "orange" > flower cluster and describe the color as red. Color desription are very > cultural, though. My wife (who is German) and I used to argue over the > color > line between orange and red frequently, her "red" going well into my > "orange". Interestingly, she has been acculturated over the years of > living > here (we now agree) and now cannot even remember those discussionsof > thirty > years ago. > > Perhaps Panayoti would have an opinion re whether C. epiphyticus grows in > that particular spot, or whether another Cyrtanthus does. > > Sadly a freeze of 17 degrees F. in February this year, just about wiped me > out. I only had one plant blooming this year, whereas last there must have > been 25-30 inflorencences. > > Apologies for not being more accurate with the nomenclature. > > Ernie O'Byrne > Northwest Garden Nursery > 86813 Central Road > Eugene, ORegon 97402 > USA > USDA Z. 7B > > "Most stern moralists are in the habit of thinking of pleasure as only of > the senses, and, when they eschew the pleasures of sense, they do not > notice > that the pleasures of power, which to men of their temperament are far > more > attractive, have not been brought within the ban of their ascetic > self-denial." > -- Bertrand Russell > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org > [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner > Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 5:37 PM > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Cyrtanthus epiphyticus > > > Blooming now from BX seed offered by Ernie O'Bryne in January 2004 is > Cyrtanthus epiphyticus. My flowers don't look like the ones that are > pictured on the wiki from Bill Dijk, > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 6 > ********************************** > > From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Mon Aug 7 19:49:22 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6ba7c$1ac113d0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: bulbs for foliage Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2006 19:49:20 -0400 Joe Shaw asked about bulbs for foliage. Although it does not have grassy foliage, one I grow here in Maryland comes to mind as soon as I hear the phrase "bulbs for foliage". It's the ginger Kaempferia rotunda. It's worth growing as a foliage plant, and the fragrant flowers are a nice bonus. It's marginally hardy here in zone 7; for Joe Shaw it should be an easy garden plant. BTW, I saw Dietes iridiodes for the first time in Florida last winter. There was a long (fifty or sixty feet long) bed of it planted in the parking lot of a shopping center. I was with some rather conservative non-botanists/non-gardeners, and they were mortified when I jumped a barrier to run over and pick the one flower in bloom. I spent about an hour trying to explain that it would wither in about an hour picked or not - to no avail. I had committed a sin. There is another group of plants which I think make great foliage plants: garden glads. If they are planted in thick clumps about two or three feet in diameter, they are handsome as foliage plants. Earlier in the year, many of the Allium have very decorative foliage - but it's typically on its last leg by May. The same is true of Tulipa greigii and its hybrids with striped, mottled foliage. Many Arisaema have very handsome foliage which remains in good condition for months. In climates like the one in which I garden, one of the most valuable foliage plants for winter effect is a geophyte: Arum italicum. In my climate, there are plenty of irises which have good foliage throughout the growing season. Many are in fact evergreen. The list could go on and on, but it seems to me that the real difference between good foliage and bad foliage is largely a matter of placement. A grassy plant among other grassy plants makes no individual effect; but put it among Hosta or other broad-leaved plants and it becomes a focal point. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where a rabbit infestation is currently reshaping my carefully considered foliage placements. From magrantham@earthlink.net Tue Aug 8 13:32:13 2006 Message-Id: <44D8CA9B.4000801@earthlink.net> From: Martin Grantham Subject: Scadoxus nutans Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2006 10:32:11 -0700 Doug, Before I share my experience with S. nutans, let me note for anyone on the list interested in purchasing fresh seed of S. nutans, I've noticed that SeedHunt.com is offering it for sale at a reasonable price. I've been growing Scadoxus nutans for 5 or 6 years and in my experience plants can hold their fruit a year or more. Mature plants carry numerous old flower stalks with fruit at various stages. They eventually turn a bright orange-red, but the seed inside has matured much earlier and invariably has already germinated within the tough sac-like inner ovary wall by the time fruit are red, so S. nutans could be called "viviparous." No doubt the fruit are waiting for an animal to consume them and the tough inner ovary sac would get them through its gut intact. I have found it best to harvest seed before the fruit are red, at perhaps 4 or 5 months from flowering, or when the fruit is very hard, without any give when squeezed. Seed are viable once the endosperm is solid. By the time the fruit are red the embryo has become very convoluted within the ovary and is more difficult to extract without damage. Some time ago I contacted you regarding seed set in S. cinnabarina and it is my observation that the clones in cultivation are female sterile as styles never elongate into the "anther zone." If anyone has produced seed on this species, I would be very interested to hear of it. I have used the pollen in attempting hybrids with results pending. I have not been able to obtain/exchange pollen from owners of potentially different genetic individuals to see if self incompatibility is the problem. Martin From Theladygardens@aol.com Tue Aug 8 20:34:11 2006 Message-Id: <492.7007e0c.320a877e@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Worsleya arrived Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 20:34:06 EDT I am so pleased, my small bulb arrived and is planted in a mixture of ceramic spheres, orchid bark and a small amount of cactus mix. Hope it lives and blooms. A sincere thanks to those of you who made this offer available, I know it was a lot of work and bother but I am sure others who got them are also thankful. Carolyn From eagle85@flash.net Tue Aug 8 22:01:46 2006 Message-Id: From: Doug Westfall Subject: Scadoxus nutans Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 18:52:01 -0700 On Tuesday, August 8, 2006, at 10:32 AM, Martin Grantham wrote: > Martin, Thanks for the information. I will pull a seed once in a while to see if it "looks" viable. My S. cinnabarinus has not bloomed again, but it remains healthy looking. To the best of my information, the seeds were "collected" by staff from the Calif. University in central Calif. I now have two seedlings from the same acquisition. However, the person who had the second seedling did not give it "acceptable" care and it was almost lost. As it was "declining," it divided. I was sent 3 divisions and done did not make it. The other 2 seem to be growing. Since our last communication, I have acquired two of the "miniature" S. multiflorus from Socotra. I do have one from an earlier gift, but the acquisition data on that one is slightly different. They are doing quite well. Well, let's keep in touch, and thanks for the information. Doug From jshields104@insightbb.com Wed Aug 9 10:14:15 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060809095933.01b77d90@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: What's Blooming Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2006 10:14:29 -0400 Hi all, This is a slow time in the garden, as many of the summer flowers start to fade. The daylilies have mostly finished up for the season. Crinum bulbispermum have not put up any late season rebloom scapes so far. Gladiolus x-gandavensis in the garden has finished blooming and is carrying some nice seed pods. Scattered Lycoris are coming into bloom. One L. chinensis, one L. longituba, and several L. sprengeri are in bloom. The Gladiolus oppositiflorus salmoneus in the garden are starting to bloom. One garden hybrid glad, with nice purple flowers, that I received years ago from John Harris as hardy, has come back. It bloomed faithfully and increased annually for several years, then a very wet winter or two apparently wiped it out. Now one scape is back and in bloom. I'm very happy to see it again! In pots, Gladiolus saundersii is showing the first flowers of that species I have ever seen. Very nice! G. dalenii 'Primrose' is in bloom (in a pot) and looks just like the x-gandavensis that bloomed in the garden awhile back. As this bulb increases, perhaps I'll have one to spare to test outdoors in the ground. Nerine bloom is scarce and late this summer. It looks as if I'm neglecting them. An interesting point is that a small bulb of Nerine laticoma (cerise color) from the old Croft Wild Bulb Nursery is finally showing one scape, the first ever of this one in my collection. Much large bulbs of N. laticoma, with leaves much wider, have never bloomed for me so far. I received a bulb some years back as Nerine forbesii, and had it bloom at least two years. Last year I tried crossing it with stored pollen of N. bowdenii and got no seeds. In past years, I've also crossed N. kreigei, now blooming here, with N. bowdenii and gotten no seeds. The Crinum variabile are still blooming, some of my stock plants having their 4th scape. I'm getting a good crop of seeds form C. variabile too. Summer isn't over yet. Regards, Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From msittner@mcn.org Wed Aug 9 10:37:01 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060809071517.02b3c860@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Allium schubertii Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2006 07:22:07 -0700 Hi all, Can anyone help Pamela, our newest list member, with her request for help growing Allium schubertii from seed? I've tried a couple of times and although I've gotten the seeds to germinate, I'm not had luck keeping them going long enough to bloom. If memory serves me they have dwindled away after a couple of years. I thought since this species is Mediterranean, I kept them dormant in summer. Suggestions anyone? Mary Sue >I have collected seed from my Allium schubertii and would appreciate any >information on growing them. I have raised beds or could use pot culture >- all >within a shade house. >Pamela from Carefree AZ From pollards@adelphia.net Wed Aug 9 10:44:38 2006 Message-Id: <12735924.1155134678139.JavaMail.root@web25> From: Subject: Allium schubertii Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 7:44:38 -0700 > Can anyone help Pamela, our newest list member, with her request for help > growing Allium schubertii from seed? I've tried a couple of times and > although I've gotten the seeds to germinate, I'm not had luck keeping them > going long enough to bloom. They grew very well for me when I lived in Tucson, but I too had no luck keeping seedlings alive on the rare occasion they would germinate for me. Perhaps the commercial stock is inbred? Shawn Pollard Yuma, AZ From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Wed Aug 9 10:59:03 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6bbc4$5a493890$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Allium schubertii Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 10:58:58 -0400 I've never raised Allium schubertii from seed, so I won't have anything to say about raising it from seed. However, I would like to take advantage of this topic to see what other list member have to say about this species (or these species - read on). The plant in commerce as Allium schubertii seems to be sensitive to wet summers here in Maryland. Winter hardiness is not a problem, but the bulbs sometimes disappear after blooming for me. But not for everyone: a friend grows this species to huge dimensions, much bigger than anything I have seen on first year bulbs. Rix and Phillips, The Random House Book of Bulbs, claim that true Allium schubertii is not particularly cold hardy. On the other hand, a similar species, Allium protensum, is supposed to be very cold hardy. And so that raises the question: is the plant in commerce Allium schubertii or A. protensum? Do our onion experts know their onions? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Iris dichotoma is putting on a really nice display this year, and a so-far unidentified Bubine is blooming modestly. From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Wed Aug 9 11:15:04 2006 Message-Id: <52857FDB394B7E45BA1F2E60D7313E2A04B19107@cbgmail.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: Allium schubertii Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 10:15:00 -0500 Hi Pamela: Lacking information from other sources, I would suggest growing it like they grow commercial onions with a fall seed sowing using rows and furrows (in full sun) and moderate fertilization. Like the edible onion, it should be adapted to cooler weather (relatively speaking) in the winter time and with supplemental irrigation you can meet it's water needs. Depending on your winter, it may or may not go completely dormant (better if it gets cold enough to go dormant) and growth should begin again once temperatures have passed the freezing point. Flowering should be a combination of vernalization and daylength dependent meaning you need a cool period followed by increasing daylengths to initiate bolting of the flower stalk. This is a 'guess' on my part based upon observing my grandfather growing commercial onions in the Rio Grande valley of New Mexico. Best of luck, Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org >I have collected seed from my Allium schubertii and would appreciate any >information on growing them. I have raised beds or could use pot culture >- all >within a shade house. >Pamela from Carefree AZ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From plantlady@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Wed Aug 9 11:28:49 2006 Message-Id: From: "Linda Foulis" Subject: Allium schubertii Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 09:31:43 -0600 I've tried A. schubertii several times but have never been able to get them to survive the winter in my zone 3 gardens. I've got older seed (3 years) in a pot outdoors now and has been there since November of 2005. I'll leave it out another winter to see if any germinate. I was under the impression (wrong?) that it was a fairly hardy allium. Linda Okotoks, AB Canada Zone 3 From jamievande@freenet.de Wed Aug 9 14:29:40 2006 Message-Id: <44DA2986.2020506@freenet.de> From: "JamieV." Subject: Allium schubertii Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2006 20:29:26 +0200 From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Wed Aug 9 14:44:07 2006 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: What's Blooming Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 11:44:04 -0700 In my dormant, but late summer blooming, section of potted bulbs, I have three scapes coming up. All three are for the first time. They are Lycoris squamigera, L. incarnata, and one of the bulbs of Amaryllis belladonna hybrids from Les Hannibal's garden that were offered way back when. These are all in larger pots (3 gal. ones). The reason I even have L. squamigera (which isn't supposed to flower in my area) was that it was offered at one of the local nurseries and every year it grows a nice set of healthy leaves which have increased over time. I can't just kill it just because I later learned it's not supposed to bloom in my area, can I? --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a From jamievande@freenet.de Wed Aug 9 15:07:19 2006 Message-Id: <44DA3266.8060601@freenet.de> From: "JamieV." Subject: Allium schubertii Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2006 21:07:18 +0200 Pamela, I have never really tried to seed A. schubertii, but it has done a good job all on its own in my garden. I have it growing in a combination of sand and the native clay soil in Cologne on a sloped bed. It received more than 4 hours of sun most days, but it doesn't really get a baking in Summer, just a drought period right after blooming. Along with A. christophii, seedlings abound among the roses and take about 4 years to bloom for me. A. christophii is certainly the better spreader and often creates clumps where the seed heads have fallen. A. schubertii sometimes skips a year blooming for me and I only see leaves. I have the feeling it is somewhat sensitive to wet conditions during its rest and during Winter, as whole patches of seedlings will disappear come Spring. This could be mice, as well. Hope this helps a bit, Jamie V. Cologne Germany From PameladAZ@aol.com Wed Aug 9 17:47:16 2006 Message-Id: From: PameladAZ@aol.com Subject: Allium schubertii Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 17:47:13 EDT Thank you, Mary Sue! It's really great hearing from members and hopefully, I can find new places to get bulbs to try in my Arizona garden. Pamela P Slate, Master Gardener P.O. Box 5134 Carefree AZ 85377 480.488.8453 From jshaw@opuntiads.com Wed Aug 9 18:33:20 2006 Message-Id: <002f01c6bc03$d2b2e120$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: bulbs for foliage Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 17:33:20 -0500 ----------- Jim M. mentioned Kaempferia rotunda ---------- Hi Gang, I'm not familiar with Kaempferia rotunda. What conditions does it like, lots of sun, lots of humus, lots of shade? Where does it come from? Anyway Jim, right on the money with the mention of gingers. Some (I'm thinking of Heydichum )are really messy, but some hybrids stand up tall and look good if they have enough water, blooms or no blooms. I have Hedychium 'Tara' and 'Elizabeth.' Both do well and are attractive, especially coming up between azaleas or other "round" plants. I've tried 'Daniel Weeks', smells great but is not stately. Cordially, Joe Shaw From davidsims@verizon.net Thu Aug 10 13:05:02 2006 Message-Id: From: Sims David Subject: Lilium publications available from NALS Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2006 10:03:28 -0700 Hello, I would like to announce the availability of two items available from the North American Lily Society (NALS) that may be of interest to subscribers to this list. The first is the new book "Martagon Lilies" by Eugene Fox. It is a 182 page book dedicated entirely to martagon species and hybrids, and includes numerous line drawings, maps, and 16 pages of color photos. It starts with an excellent job of describing the species that belong to the martagon group, and goes on to discuss hybrids, hybridizing, and all aspects of culture and propagation. I believe it is the only book available that is dedicated to martagons. Fox published the book himself, but it is available on the NALS web site. The second is the NALS "Digital Yearbook" DVD, containing facsimiles of the first 50 NALS Yearbooks (1947-1997). The Yearbooks have been converted into high quality graphic Adobe PDFs that can be viewed using the Adobe Acrobat Reader or other PDF viewers. All of the original text, graphics, and photos are included, and the files are suitable for on screen viewing or printing. The DVD is compatible with computers using Windows, Macintosh, or Linux operating systems. A DVD drive is required; the files can not be accessed from a CD drive.The DVD contains more than 6,800 pages of material, and is an economical alternative to collecting all of the printed yearbooks. It is a great resource for lilium research, as it contains 50 years worth of information about lilium species, hybrids, hybridization, and lily culture. More information about these can be found at the NALS Store on the NALS website: http://www.lilies.org/store.html Thank you, David Sims NALS Web-master and Yearbook Editor From piabinha@yahoo.com Thu Aug 10 15:02:59 2006 Message-Id: <20060810190259.81943.qmail@web51907.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: bulbs for foliage Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2006 12:02:59 -0700 (PDT) besides Kaempferia rotunda, there was a ginger named Cornkaempferia aurantiaca or C. rotunda that has very nice markings. i don't recall if the name has changed since i've seen it for the first time in bot. gardens. ========= tsuh yang __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From piabinha@yahoo.com Thu Aug 10 15:06:20 2006 Message-Id: <20060810190620.50197.qmail@web51902.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: bulbs for foliage Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2006 12:06:20 -0700 (PDT) sorry, it's Cornukaempferia. --- piaba wrote: > besides Kaempferia rotunda, there was a ginger named > Cornkaempferia aurantiaca or C. rotunda that has > very > nice markings. i don't recall if the name has > changed > since i've seen it for the first time in bot. > gardens. > > ========= > tsuh yang __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From jshaw@opuntiads.com Thu Aug 10 19:22:21 2006 Message-Id: <010d01c6bcd3$d4897f60$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Crinum rebloom Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2006 18:22:19 -0500 Hi Gang, I'm still slugging away, trying to put the clues together from various observations about Crinum, and Crinum hybrids. The observations come from all over the world and sometimes don't seem to agree with one another. For instance, I've run across a number of descriptions of 'Rose Parade.' That plant never reblooms, or it might sometimes. It can have dark pink (but clearly pink) flowers, or nearly red flowers. It can have umbels with 25-30 flowers, or with less than 12. It sets seed, or it doesn't. It can increase readily, or not so much. For me, one revelation was realizing that perhaps some putative 'Rose Parade' plants set seed and that the progeny are nearly identical with the parent plants, but not exactly so. Thus, over time, perhaps 'Rose Parade' seedlings have been passed on here and there, and the variants may have accumulated differences. Also, I've realized that irrigation during the growing season is key to much Crinum performance. Additionally, it seems that established clumps (3 or more years undisturbed), perform differently than newer plantings (more flowers, more rebloom, etc.). Anyway, I was happy to see that Crinum x 'Bradley' (one of my favorites) has rebloomed this summer, after producing flowers 2 times from the same bulb earlier in the season. I wonder if continued irrigation and water over over the growing season might not propel the plants to rebloom even more in future seasons. Cordially, Joe Shaw Not too hot here in Conroe, TX. Humidity moderate for this area, but not low compared to many areas. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Thu Aug 10 23:02:53 2006 Message-Id: <005201c6bcf2$9fd48390$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Crinum rebloom Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2006 23:02:29 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 7:22 PM Subject: [pbs] Crinum rebloom > Also, I've realized that irrigation during the > growing season is key to much Crinum performance. > I wonder if continued irrigation and water over > the growing season might not propel the plants to rebloom even more in > future seasons. > Joe Shaw Yes, indeed, the key is water, water, water! I have some transplanted xherbertii-types (white with pale rose stripe) on June 30. They were budded when I transplanted them and they all bloomed out, then rested. Rather, they were getting rooted in. About 3 weeks to a month ago, they started putting out new leaves and now one of the bulbs is sending up a scape. Yippee! I cut them back moderately when I transplanted them and pretty much watered them every day, keeping them evenly moist. We had some good rains that watered them deeply from time to time as I have also done on occasion. I have just had a second scape emerge from a potted C. scabrum. I was concerned about how to water them and found that they too seem to prefer lots of it. Awhile back, I got scared that I might be overdoing the water and cut back, not letting them get really dry, just not watering so often, maybe watering later in the day or waiting til the next morning and so forth. Well, the heavy rains brought out scapes overnight, literally. One day there was no sign of a scape and the next morning, there's 2-inch scape showing. So maybe they are spurred on to bloom after a bit of dryishness followed by plentiful moisture. I haven't let go as dry as before. As I said, I have noticed quite a few leaf tips appearing around the bulb, between the scales, indicating division. I have kept all my Crinums well watered. Some are too young to bloom (but I'm still hoping for a late showing) but the foliage hasn't flopped about as it does if they go dry. I know too, that I'm helping them set future buds, so it's all good. Here's another point: When I dug up the bulbs (at a neighbor's home), I used a hose to rinse the soil from the roots and when I'd stop to let my friend seperate the clump some, I'd water his remaining clumps. They hadn't been blooming and he said he never watered them anymore. Well, the next week there were more blooms on his clumps. And the woman he got his start from lives nearby as well and I know she waters her garden regularly. Hers have repeated all season. Robert. From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Fri Aug 11 12:01:24 2006 Message-Id: <44DCAAE5.E95F6C65@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Crinums & water Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2006 09:05:57 -0700 I think it would be a mistake to water well all species of Crinum. The amount they need depends on the species. Crinum foetidum, as an example, I found growing at Victoria Falls, in very very dry soil which was also very compacted, being in a path from the station to the village. This plant had 7 flowers, but no doubt because of the compacted soil was only about 10 inches in height. Cheers, John E. Bryan From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Fri Aug 11 13:29:42 2006 Message-Id: <003001c6bd6b$b72e6820$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Crinums & water Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2006 13:29:34 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Bryan" To: Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 12:05 PM Subject: [pbs] Crinums & water >I think it would be a mistake to water well all species of Crinum. The > amount they need depends on the species. Absolutely! A good point. I was referring to those that have higher water requirements. When they are kept watered, they respond in kind. >Crinum foetidum, as an example, I found growing at Victoria Falls, in very >very dry soil which was also >very compacted, being in a path from the station to the village. This plant >had 7 flowers, but no doubt because of the >compacted soil was only about >10 inches in height.Cheers, John E. Bryan I might still give them more water than they would receive in situ, to explore their potential more fully. As with desert plants grown in more temperate climes, they can achieve in a few years what might take decades in their home environment. Robert. From ang.por@alice.it Fri Aug 11 14:01:33 2006 Message-Id: <000b01c6bd70$2743a810$f4010757@angelo1f9656d7> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: Crinum rebloom Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2006 20:01:21 +0200 Joe and others, I don't understand well what people mean for reblooming. If it means a bulb able to send more scapes, then most of crinum are rebloooming. My biggest moorei send regularly 3 scapes in succession, but now inits normal season. What I mean for reblooming is a plant which sends scapes i.e. in June and again in August or September. So far the only true reblooming crinum I grow is Cecil Houdyshel. From May to now it has sent 5 scapes in succession and surely it will throw some more till fall and without special cares or waterings. best regards Angelo Porcelli south of Italy From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri Aug 11 22:44:10 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060811142626.00bf27c8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Surplus bulb list Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2006 14:27:32 -0700 For those who are wondering if they're still on the mailing list for my surplus bulb list, yes, you are, but it will be late this year owing to interruptions in my schedule by the NARGS meeting and a family emergency in another state. Thank for your continuing interest, Jane McGary From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Aug 12 12:54:40 2006 Message-Id: <000901c6be30$012334f0$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Crinum reblooming Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 11:54:38 -0500 -------------------------------- What I mean for reblooming is a plant which sends scapes i.e. in June and again in August or September. So far the only true reblooming crinum I grow is Cecil Houdyshel. ------------------------------- Hi Gang and Angelo, I agree with the proposed definition of reblooming. For me, C. bulbispermum Jumbo hybrids do the typical 2-4 scapes in Spring and then slow down for summer. Mature plants, if well watered, will put up more blooms in late August and right up till frost. Therefore, I was happy to see 'Bradley' reblooming this summer. 'Eagle Rock' reblooms, irregularly but relalibly. 'Summer Nocturne' is late to start but if you keep it well watered a clump just keeps blooming till November (later if no frosts)--not every week but reliably often. 'Hannibals Dwarf' reblooms in late summer and sometimes tries to make a third performance before frost--it too needs lots of water to keep on track. Some C. asiaticum-like plants (or hybrids) seem to bloom off and on till frost cuts them down. They may bloom early in the season, or wait till June to start, but then they can keep making flowers. C. x augustum seems to bloom only in winter, and it is not suitable for me to grow becuase I don't protect my plants from cold. However, friends in Houston (a bit warmer) grow it in frost-free gardens where it reliably blooms several times from December till spring. They may experience drop to 31-33 F once or twice a winter, but plants near the house never feel that cold. I've finally decided that one key for rebloom is water, water, water. I think they need several years of good, regular irrigation (no month-long droughts) before Crinum give their best performances. I can't be sure, but that's my current "hypothesis of the week." Cordially, Joe From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Aug 12 12:55:28 2006 Message-Id: <000a01c6be30$1d542800$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Flower Formation (cross posted on "that other list") Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 11:55:26 -0500 Flower Formation Irrigation for garden Crinum is great. Sometimes languid clumps can suddenly bloom in the month following heavy rains. Many bulbs form flower buds a long time before they are stimulated to bloom, perhaps during the prior growing season or even the one before that. So, for me, the key to good blooming has been regular watering over a long season of growth, and every season. This means that I water the plants if it hasn't rained in 5 days or a week (during hot weather); I water potted plants a lot, even if they are in 25-gallon containers. By nature, many bulbs don't perform their best in their natural environments, or they may not do so every year. They have bad years and good years, and grow and flower accordingly. Typically, if care is taken to make sure they are not pushed too hard with fertilizer, many bulbs will perform best in gardens where conditions are better than they might ever experience in nature. There can be drawbacks sometimes plants that are grown "hard" have a special look, a durability and presence that is often lacking in garden-grown plants. Also, garden-grown plants may suffer from too much fertilizer, or exposure to insects and pathogens not encountered in the wild. Additionally, plants that are pushed to grow for months on end may have lots of new growth that is sometimes fodder for nearly permanent pest infestations. For the most part, garden bulbs are a hardy lot, and are often hybrids that might not even be able to survive or reproduce in "the wild." So, I'm happy to push my flowers with water, and Crinum types seem to appreciate it (during the growing season). Some plants need a down time, a stress- or environmentally-induced (drought, short days, cold, heat, etc.) period when they shut down. They may not need such period to actually survive but may require it for flower bud formation or maturation. Many Crinum like to slow down during the winter, but that can be a problem in many gardens; sprinklers or year-round rain don't permit the type of drought that is experiences by many bulb species in the wild. For instance, Amaryllis belladonna grows easily here in my yard, but it has never flowered; I'm pretty sure it needs a pronounced summer drought. Similarly, Lycoris squamigera grows easily here; alas, it too never flowers. The leaves pop up after January and die down by June; I think it must need a period of cold to flower. The local rain lily (Z. chlorosolen) blooms reliably, but the flowers are unnaturally tall and can fall over-perhaps too much fertilizer in the flowerbed. Anyway, getting back to flower formation, I take care to water Crinum for at least six months of the year (March-September); they enjoy it. C. scabrum, C. delagoense (sthulmanii), something that seems like C. graminicola, and some others just deal with the rain as long as they have deep soils and good drainage. I try to remember to put pots of the latter 2 species on their sides for winter. Conceptually, I lump many bulbs (Crinum, Nerine, Lycoris, some Tulipia, etc.) into the same category I put succulents. The bulbs are indeed adapted for drought, but like succulents need water. The amount of water, the timing, the drainage, and so on are all variables that might be modified. For instance, I plant most cacti in pure scoria (lava rock for landscape). Then, I pour a little soil into the rock cracks (the soil is a mix of sand, perlite, and 10% humus). I never water cacti, they get far more rain than they need just by being here in the Greater Houston area. Even with a soil composed primarily of scoria, I still have to apply fungicides 2 or 3 times a year to be sure the roots don't acquire some infections. After thinking it over and getting some advice from Greg Pettit, I've decided I'll move the C. delagoense to a mixture that is composed of more sand and perlite, and far less humus. Maybe that will make them happier with year-round rain, maybe not. Back to flower formation: typical bulbs like water in the growing season; typical bulbs like good drainage. Many bulbs seem to produce flower buds a long time before we ever see the flowers and I try to help them along by giving them lots of water during the growing season. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX Not too hot today, not a lot of rain this week. I've watered the Crinum beds twice this week, and of course, have given no water to the cacti. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Aug 12 13:38:33 2006 Message-Id: <002801c6be36$21e75d00$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Crinum foetidum and water Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 12:38:30 -0500 ------------------- I think it would be a mistake to water well all species of Crinum. The amount they need depends on the species. Crinum foetidum, as an example, I found growing at Victoria Falls, in very very dry soil which was also very compacted, being in a path from the station to the village. ----------------- Hi Gang, That sure sounds like one tough plant, compacted and shallow soil, and not much water. I can't comment directly on C. foetidum, but generally speaking, many plants have 2 or 3 life phases. Thus, as seeds and seedlings they need conditions that they may not encounter often as adults. As a general rule, succulent plants (including bulbs from arid areas) need gentle conditions during the period when they are establishing. In the American West, for certain cacti, such periods might be 2 or 3 wet years in succession, with mild winters as well. Some seem to require such conditions and then 2 or 3 dry years (to kill competitors like grasses), followed by another few wet years in order to really get established. However, once established cacti can go 2-3 years without rain, and much longer with just a bit of rain. Such plants may not flower, or they may flower and set seed poorly, but they are alive and ready to produce when a good year comes along. Many bulbs of dry lands can often be found in situations that are quite wet sometimes, clay pans and local areas of water runoff. Of course, in really dry areas, the wet condition is not obvious most of the time and may not occur some years. Bulbs are a storage device, storing food and water, or perhaps rare trace elements. How much of which and in what proportions will depend upon the bulb type and growing conditions. Cacti (or succulent leaf plants) similarly are storage devices, but they have evolved different storage organs. Many cacti don't mind water, per se, if they have good drainage. In fact, they often achieve unnatural (and sometimes ugly) growth if they have too much water, such as here in my garden. This area may receive 40-60 inches of rain per year; in contrast some species I grow come from areas with 5-25 inches of rain per year. Also, precipitation is pretty much a year round thing here, whereas desert areas may go 5 months or 10 months between rains. I think that many bulbs will tolerate water even if they don't require it, but prolonged soggy soil can lead to many problems. Therefore, bulbs from dry areas will obviously benefit from excellent drainage if they are getting too much water. They may even benefit from other provisions such as more perlite and stones (and less humus) so that less water is held in soil after gravity removes what it can. Even if a lot of care is taken with cacti, they can suffer from root rot when grown where rains occur year-round. I combat this by doing several things: 1) I never water mature plants (they get too much water as it is), 2) I plant them in nearly pure scoria, sand, and perlite, with only a trace of humus, and 3) I apply lawn fungicides to surface of the cactus pots (just as I would apply to a lawn, but more heavily). I like myclobutanil because it has low toxicity for me, because it breaks down soon enough, and because it is a systemic fungicide. Back to bulbs: bulbs from very arid places may utilize more water than we can suppose. However, extra irrigation can result in a garden "look" as opposed to a wild look. Also, bulbs from arid areas can be predicted to require not-so-horrible conditions during their seedling stage. Bulbs may require a drought-induced dormancy to bloom. So, extra water in summer may be fine but it may not be helpful for blooming. I have looked but can find no literature out there (help me gang) where it has been determined if C. foetidum requires a drought, or cold, or something else to bloom. I'm under the impression that C. foetidum plants will bloom in South African gardens where conditions are not as it might find in the wild. Finally, it needs to be mentioned, that lessons extrapolated from other succulents do not necessarily apply to Crinum (or other bulb plants). I guess we all make our way in the garden or greenhouse, improvising as we go. Cordially, Joe From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Aug 12 17:29:36 2006 Message-Id: <005801c6be56$69615850$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Erythrina herbacea Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 16:29:34 -0500 Hi Jim, I was reading old PBS files (the archives). I noticed that a while back (2-3 years ago) you were looking for 2-3 pounds of Erythrina herbacea seeds. It seems you had a colleage in Japan wishing to isolate components. Anyway, I have 500-1000 seeds sitting here. I was thinging to shell them and give them away on the Texas Garden Web. I have 2 large plants in my yard from population in Central Texas. Last year I collected and traded about 2 cups of pure seed; I got a about $80 dollars in credit from Mesa Garden (in New Mexico). I certainly don't have 2-3 pounds, but could get 4-5 cups of hulled seed over a year's time if you still were interested in such things. It goes without saying that it would be easier for me to send seeds-in-the-pod to you, and let you and your colleage sort out overseas shipping and shelling, etc. Perhaps it is far too late to help your friend. Cordially, Joe From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Aug 12 18:35:04 2006 Message-Id: <001d01c6be5f$8c92f690$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 17:34:58 -0500 -------------------------->>I grow thaianum and calimistratum (a var. of natans). They are >>completely submerged all time. In summer I put them into a >>little pond at full sun, in winter (I live in zone 8) I put>> them in an aquarium with temperature at 18-20°C. I have not>> seen the flower till now, but I hope to. There is little in>> literature about these items and less in horticulture. >>I am experimenting! --------------------------------- Hi Gang, Last winter I wrote about Crinum thainum and C. natans, and a couple of other apparently fully aquatic Crinum species. Perhaps the plants are obligate aquatics, or perhaps they are facultative. Or maybe they really want to be submerged most of the time, but don't require 100% underwater existence. Alberto (in Italy) provided a bit of information. I'd like to try growing these plants, and looked for them in a couple of aquarium/fish stores, but did not find them. No doubt, one or another will appear for sale in the future-fish stores seem to have erratic shipments of stock. Anyway, I wonder if Alberto's plants bloomed this year? Does anyone have a clue about hybrids between these plants and other Crinum? As near as I can tell, the genus has specialized in many ways to exploit seriously arid environments, forests, savannahs and grasslands, sometimes-flooded regions and bog-like areas, and streams. Such wondrous adaptation is not without precedent, but it is special and fun to learn about. So, if you grow the 3 or 4 (or 5 or 6) aquatic Crinum, I'd enjoy hearing about your experiences and observations, whether in aquaria or in the garden. Cordially, Joe Conroe TX No rain for a week or more, and so I've been watering the summer-growing bulbs. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sat Aug 12 20:40:14 2006 Message-Id: <007301c6be71$060d3ab0$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 20:40:02 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 6:34 PM Subject: [pbs] Aquatic Crinum >Last winter I wrote about Crinum thainum and C. natans, and a couple of >other apparently fully aquatic Crinum >species. > I'd like to try growing these plants, and looked for them in a couple of > aquarium/fish stores, but >did not find them. >Joe I Googled and found many online sources starting at about $2.50 a plant for thaianum and natans. Robert. From crinum@libero.it Sun Aug 13 05:10:38 2006 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Grossi" Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 11:10:37 +0200 Hi Joe and all. My crinums (thaianum and calimistratum) are growing well, but they have not flowered. I do not know how big have to be the bulbs before blooming. It looks like it is worth to go on. Ciao Alberto Italy ---------- Initial Header ----------- From : pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org To : pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Cc : Date : Sat, 12 Aug 2006 17:34:58 -0500 Subject : [pbs] Aquatic Crinum > -------------------------->>I grow thaianum and calimistratum (a var. of > natans). They are >>completely submerged all time. In summer I put them into > a >>little pond at full sun, in winter (I live in zone 8) I put>> them in an > aquarium with temperature at 18-20°C. I have not>> seen the flower till now, > but I hope to. There is little in>> literature about these items and less > in horticulture. >>I am experimenting! > > --------------------------------- > > > > Hi Gang, > > > > Last winter I wrote about Crinum thainum and C. natans, and a couple of > other apparently fully aquatic Crinum species. Perhaps the plants are > obligate aquatics, or perhaps they are facultative. Or maybe they really > want to be submerged most of the time, but don't require 100% underwater > existence. > > > > Alberto (in Italy) provided a bit of information. I'd like to try growing > these plants, and looked for them in a couple of aquarium/fish stores, but > did not find them. No doubt, one or another will appear for sale in the > future-fish stores seem to have erratic shipments of stock. > > > > Anyway, I wonder if Alberto's plants bloomed this year? > > > > Does anyone have a clue about hybrids between these plants and other Crinum? > As near as I can tell, the genus has specialized in many ways to exploit > seriously arid environments, forests, savannahs and grasslands, > sometimes-flooded regions and bog-like areas, and streams. Such wondrous > adaptation is not without precedent, but it is special and fun to learn > about. > > > > So, if you grow the 3 or 4 (or 5 or 6) aquatic Crinum, I'd enjoy hearing > about your experiences and observations, whether in aquaria or in the > garden. > > > > > > Cordially, > > > > Joe > > Conroe TX > > No rain for a week or more, and so I've been watering the summer-growing > bulbs. > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > Alberto Grossi Italy From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sun Aug 13 11:22:06 2006 Message-Id: <001e01c6beec$37c0f670$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 11:21:56 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 6:34 PM Subject: [pbs] Aquatic Crinum >Last winter I wrote about Crinum thainum and C. natans Or maybe they >really >want to be submerged most of the time, but don't require 100% underwater >existence. >Joe What an intriguing question which naturally begs for practical exploration! That's on my list of to-dos now. Robert. From dells@voicenet.com Sun Aug 13 12:30:45 2006 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 124 Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:29:55 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 124" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash, check, or Paypal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: .... Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com . If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Mary Sue Ittner: BULBS: 1. Mixed bulbs-- Every year when I repot I collect the bulbs that have made their way into a pot of something else. Generally I pot three or four large deep community pots and have fun seeing what they might end up being. The bloom in these community pots can be quite long as different things bloom at different times. This year I have decided to share this fun with the group. I have added a temporary picture to the wiki of the bulbs I sent to Dell for this purpose. These are winter rainfall bulbs and probably most of them are from South Africa or California and therefore hardiness cannot be guaranteed. Looking at them I'd expect there are Gladiolus, Moraea, Oxalis, Ixia, Sparaxis, Calochortus, Brodiaea or Dichelostemma, Geissorhiza, Spiloxene, Allium, Tritonia represented, but there could be others as well. Some may be too small to bloom, but many are blooming size. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/BX_Mixed_Bulbs.jpg Winter growing: 2. Ipheion uniflorum -- White 3. Muscari aucheri-- The birds stole the tag on this pot, but I am reasonably sure this is what they are. Grown from Nargs seed and I don't have a good key for Muscari so accuracy has not been checked 4. Oxalis MV 4674 -- More info on the wiki 5. Oxalis unknown -- Another lost tag. These are not obtusa. They look more like hirta-flava types, but doing an inventory of what I've planted, I've already planted those so who knows 6. Spiloxene capensis -- White or pink SEED: ( Some of these in small quantities and probably only enough for one person.) Photos on the wiki, winter growing except for the Cyrtanthus. Scilla and Veltheimia with short dormancy 7. Calochortus nitidus -- not a California species so maybe more tolerant of summer water 8. Cyrtanthus brachyscyphus -- recently offered, long blooming, evergreen 9. Geissorhiza heterostyla -- one of the easier Geissorhizas for me 10. Lachenalia mathewsii -- yellow 11. Lachenalia rosea -- very few seeds, pink 12. Romulea diversiformis-- early blooming, nice yellow 13. Triteleia hendersonii -- very few seeds, one of the most striking species, found mostly in Oregon 14. Scilla peruviana ( syn .Oncostema peruviana ) 15. Veltheimia bracteata -- seeds germinate well with the paper towel method. I have finally gotten to the point where I feel I have enough pots of this gorgeous plant with its wonderful leaves and long lasting flowers From Arnold Trachtenberg: 16. Bulbs of Colchicum pannonicum http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Colchicum/Colchicum_pannonicum6. JPG 17. Seed of Erythronium californicum 'White Beauty' From Uli Urban: 18. Seed of Hippeastrum sp? "The bulb was given to me by a person who traveled in Brazil. It comes from a garden, but does very much look like a species. It flowered with nice orange-red flowers and a yellow throat, the petals were lightly twisted. I self fertilized it and it (hopefully) seems to have worked. Unfortunately I was too busy to take a picture of the flower. No further details known. Uli" Thank you, Mary Sue, Arnold, and Uli !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sun Aug 13 12:56:10 2006 Message-Id: <000c01c6bef9$5ff28020$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 12 Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 11:56:06 -0500 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 11:00 AM Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 12 > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post: <mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > List-Archive: <http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist> > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Crinum reblooming (Joe Shaw) > 2. Flower Formation (cross posted on "that other list") (Joe Shaw) > 3. Re: Crinum foetidum and water (Joe Shaw) > 4. Erythrina herbacea (Joe Shaw) > 5. Aquatic Crinum (Joe Shaw) > 6. Re: Aquatic Crinum (rdjenkins) > 7. Re: Aquatic Crinum (Alberto Grossi) > 8. Re: Aquatic Crinum (rdjenkins) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 11:54:38 -0500 > From: "Joe Shaw" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum reblooming > To: > Message-ID: <000901c6be30$012334f0$6401a8c0@Petunia> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > -------------------------------- > What I mean for reblooming is a plant which sends scapes i.e. in June and > again in August or September. So far the only true reblooming crinum I > grow > is Cecil Houdyshel. > ------------------------------- > > Hi Gang and Angelo, > > I agree with the proposed definition of reblooming. For me, C. > bulbispermum > Jumbo hybrids do the typical 2-4 scapes in Spring and then slow down for > summer. Mature plants, if well watered, will put up more blooms in late > August and right up till frost. > > Therefore, I was happy to see 'Bradley' reblooming this summer. 'Eagle > Rock' reblooms, irregularly but relalibly. 'Summer Nocturne' is late to > start but if you keep it well watered a clump just keeps blooming till > November (later if no frosts)--not every week but reliably often. > 'Hannibals Dwarf' reblooms in late summer and sometimes tries to make a > third performance before frost--it too needs lots of water to keep on > track. > > Some C. asiaticum-like plants (or hybrids) seem to bloom off and on till > frost cuts them down. They may bloom early in the season, or wait till > June > to start, but then they can keep making flowers. C. x augustum seems to > bloom only in winter, and it is not suitable for me to grow becuase I > don't > protect my plants from cold. However, friends in Houston (a bit warmer) > grow it in frost-free gardens where it reliably blooms several times from > December till spring. They may experience drop to 31-33 F once or twice a > winter, but plants near the house never feel that cold. > > I've finally decided that one key for rebloom is water, water, water. I > think they need several years of good, regular irrigation (no month-long > droughts) before Crinum give their best performances. I can't be sure, > but > that's my current "hypothesis of the week." > > > Cordially, > > Joe > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 11:55:26 -0500 > From: "Joe Shaw" > Subject: [pbs] Flower Formation (cross posted on "that other list") > To: > Message-ID: <000a01c6be30$1d542800$6401a8c0@Petunia> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > Flower Formation > > > > > > Irrigation for garden Crinum is great. Sometimes languid clumps can > suddenly bloom in the month following heavy rains. > > > > Many bulbs form flower buds a long time before they are stimulated to > bloom, > perhaps during the prior growing season or even the one before that. So, > for me, the key to good blooming has been regular watering over a long > season of growth, and every season. This means that I water the plants if > it hasn't rained in 5 days or a week (during hot weather); I water potted > plants a lot, even if they are in 25-gallon containers. > > > > By nature, many bulbs don't perform their best in their natural > environments, or they may not do so every year. They have bad years and > good years, and grow and flower accordingly. Typically, if care is taken > to > make sure they are not pushed too hard with fertilizer, many bulbs will > perform best in gardens where conditions are better than they might ever > experience in nature. > > > > There can be drawbacks sometimes plants that are grown "hard" have a > special > look, a durability and presence that is often lacking in garden-grown > plants. Also, garden-grown plants may suffer from too much fertilizer, or > exposure to insects and pathogens not encountered in the wild. > Additionally, plants that are pushed to grow for months on end may have > lots > of new growth that is sometimes fodder for nearly permanent pest > infestations. > > > > For the most part, garden bulbs are a hardy lot, and are often hybrids > that > might not even be able to survive or reproduce in "the wild." So, I'm > happy > to push my flowers with water, and Crinum types seem to appreciate it > (during the growing season). > > > > Some plants need a down time, a stress- or environmentally-induced > (drought, > short days, cold, heat, etc.) period when they shut down. They may not > need > such period to actually survive but may require it for flower bud > formation > or maturation. > > > > Many Crinum like to slow down during the winter, but that can be a problem > in many gardens; sprinklers or year-round rain don't permit the type of > drought that is experiences by many bulb species in the wild. For > instance, > Amaryllis belladonna grows easily here in my yard, but it has never > flowered; I'm pretty sure it needs a pronounced summer drought. > Similarly, > Lycoris squamigera grows easily here; alas, it too never flowers. The > leaves pop up after January and die down by June; I think it must need a > period of cold to flower. The local rain lily (Z. chlorosolen) blooms > reliably, but the flowers are unnaturally tall and can fall over-perhaps > too > much fertilizer in the flowerbed. > > > > Anyway, getting back to flower formation, I take care to water Crinum for > at > least six months of the year (March-September); they enjoy it. C. > scabrum, > C. delagoense (sthulmanii), something that seems like C. graminicola, and > some others just deal with the rain as long as they have deep soils and > good > drainage. I try to remember to put pots of the latter 2 species on their > sides for winter. > > > > Conceptually, I lump many bulbs (Crinum, Nerine, Lycoris, some Tulipia, > etc.) into the same category I put succulents. The bulbs are indeed > adapted > for drought, but like succulents need water. The amount of water, the > timing, the drainage, and so on are all variables that might be modified. > For instance, I plant most cacti in pure scoria (lava rock for landscape). > Then, I pour a little soil into the rock cracks (the soil is a mix of > sand, > perlite, and 10% humus). I never water cacti, they get far more rain than > they need just by being here in the Greater Houston area. Even with a > soil > composed primarily of scoria, I still have to apply fungicides 2 or 3 > times > a year to be sure the roots don't acquire some infections. > > > > After thinking it over and getting some advice from Greg Pettit, I've > decided I'll move the C. delagoense to a mixture that is composed of more > sand and perlite, and far less humus. Maybe that will make them happier > with year-round rain, maybe not. > > > > Back to flower formation: typical bulbs like water in the growing season; > typical bulbs like good drainage. Many bulbs seem to produce flower buds > a > long time before we ever see the flowers and I try to help them along by > giving them lots of water during the growing season. > > > > > > Cordially, > > > > Joe > > Conroe, TX > > Not too hot today, not a lot of rain this week. I've watered the Crinum > beds twice this week, and of course, have given no water to the cacti. > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 12:38:30 -0500 > From: "Joe Shaw" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum foetidum and water > To: > Message-ID: <002801c6be36$21e75d00$6401a8c0@Petunia> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > ------------------- > I think it would be a mistake to water well all species of Crinum. The > amount they need depends on the species. Crinum foetidum, as an example, I > found growing at Victoria Falls, in very very dry soil which was also very > compacted, being in a path from the station to the village. > ----------------- > > > > > > Hi Gang, > > > > That sure sounds like one tough plant, compacted and shallow soil, and not > much water. > > > > I can't comment directly on C. foetidum, but generally speaking, many > plants > have 2 or 3 life phases. Thus, as seeds and seedlings they need > conditions > that they may not encounter often as adults. > > > > As a general rule, succulent plants (including bulbs from arid areas) need > gentle conditions during the period when they are establishing. In the > American West, for certain cacti, such periods might be 2 or 3 wet years > in > succession, with mild winters as well. Some seem to require such > conditions > and then 2 or 3 dry years (to kill competitors like grasses), followed by > another few wet years in order to really get established. > > > > However, once established cacti can go 2-3 years without rain, and much > longer with just a bit of rain. Such plants may not flower, or they may > flower and set seed poorly, but they are alive and ready to produce when a > good year comes along. > > > > Many bulbs of dry lands can often be found in situations that are quite > wet > sometimes, clay pans and local areas of water runoff. Of course, in > really > dry areas, the wet condition is not obvious most of the time and may not > occur some years. Bulbs are a storage device, storing food and water, or > perhaps rare trace elements. How much of which and in what proportions > will > depend upon the bulb type and growing conditions. Cacti (or succulent > leaf > plants) similarly are storage devices, but they have evolved different > storage organs. > > > > Many cacti don't mind water, per se, if they have good drainage. In fact, > they often achieve unnatural (and sometimes ugly) growth if they have too > much water, such as here in my garden. This area may receive 40-60 inches > of rain per year; in contrast some species I grow come from areas with > 5-25 > inches of rain per year. Also, precipitation is pretty much a year round > thing here, whereas desert areas may go 5 months or 10 months between > rains. > > > > I think that many bulbs will tolerate water even if they don't require it, > but prolonged soggy soil can lead to many problems. Therefore, bulbs from > dry areas will obviously benefit from excellent drainage if they are > getting > too much water. They may even benefit from other provisions such as more > perlite and stones (and less humus) so that less water is held in soil > after > gravity removes what it can. > > > > Even if a lot of care is taken with cacti, they can suffer from root rot > when grown where rains occur year-round. I combat this by doing several > things: 1) I never water mature plants (they get too much water as it > is), > 2) I plant them in nearly pure scoria, sand, and perlite, with only a > trace > of humus, and 3) I apply lawn fungicides to surface of the cactus pots > (just > as I would apply to a lawn, but more heavily). I like myclobutanil > because > it has low toxicity for me, because it breaks down soon enough, and > because > it is a systemic fungicide. > > > > Back to bulbs: bulbs from very arid places may utilize more water than we > can suppose. However, extra irrigation can result in a garden "look" as > opposed to a wild look. Also, bulbs from arid areas can be predicted to > require not-so-horrible conditions during their seedling stage. > > > > Bulbs may require a drought-induced dormancy to bloom. So, extra water in > summer may be fine but it may not be helpful for blooming. I have looked > but can find no literature out there (help me gang) where it has been > determined if C. foetidum requires a drought, or cold, or something else > to > bloom. I'm under the impression that C. foetidum plants will bloom in > South African gardens where conditions are not as it might find in the > wild. > > > > Finally, it needs to be mentioned, that lessons extrapolated from other > succulents do not necessarily apply to Crinum (or other bulb plants). I > guess we all make our way in the garden or greenhouse, improvising as we > go. > > > > > > Cordially, > > > > > > Joe > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 16:29:34 -0500 > From: "Joe Shaw" > Subject: [pbs] Erythrina herbacea > To: > Message-ID: <005801c6be56$69615850$6401a8c0@Petunia> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Hi Jim, > > I was reading old PBS files (the archives). I noticed that a while back > (2-3 years ago) you were looking for 2-3 pounds of Erythrina herbacea > seeds. It seems you had a colleage in Japan wishing to isolate > components. > > Anyway, I have 500-1000 seeds sitting here. I was thinging to shell them > and give them away on the Texas Garden Web. I have 2 large plants in my > yard from population in Central Texas. Last year I collected and traded > about 2 cups of pure seed; I got a about $80 dollars in credit from Mesa > Garden (in New Mexico). > > I certainly don't have 2-3 pounds, but could get 4-5 cups of hulled seed > over a year's time if you still were interested in such things. It goes > without saying that it would be easier for me to send seeds-in-the-pod to > you, and let you and your colleage sort out overseas shipping and > shelling, etc. Perhaps it is far too late to help your friend. > > > Cordially, > > > Joe > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 17:34:58 -0500 > From: "Joe Shaw" > Subject: [pbs] Aquatic Crinum > To: > Message-ID: <001d01c6be5f$8c92f690$6401a8c0@Petunia> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > -------------------------->>I grow thaianum and calimistratum (a var. of > natans). They are >>completely submerged all time. In summer I put them > into > a >>little pond at full sun, in winter (I live in zone 8) I put>> them in > an > aquarium with temperature at 18-20?C. I have not>> seen the flower till > now, > but I hope to. There is little in>> literature about these items and less > in horticulture. >>I am experimenting! > > --------------------------------- > > > > Hi Gang, > > > > Last winter I wrote about Crinum thainum and C. natans, and a couple of > other apparently fully aquatic Crinum species. Perhaps the plants are > obligate aquatics, or perhaps they are facultative. Or maybe they really > want to be submerged most of the time, but don't require 100% underwater > existence. > > > > Alberto (in Italy) provided a bit of information. I'd like to try growing > these plants, and looked for them in a couple of aquarium/fish stores, but > did not find them. No doubt, one or another will appear for sale in the > future-fish stores seem to have erratic shipments of stock. > > > > Anyway, I wonder if Alberto's plants bloomed this year? > > > > Does anyone have a clue about hybrids between these plants and other > Crinum? > As near as I can tell, the genus has specialized in many ways to exploit > seriously arid environments, forests, savannahs and grasslands, > sometimes-flooded regions and bog-like areas, and streams. Such wondrous > adaptation is not without precedent, but it is special and fun to learn > about. > > > > So, if you grow the 3 or 4 (or 5 or 6) aquatic Crinum, I'd enjoy hearing > about your experiences and observations, whether in aquaria or in the > garden. > > > > > > Cordially, > > > > Joe > > Conroe TX > > No rain for a week or more, and so I've been watering the summer-growing > bulbs. > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 20:40:02 -0400 > From: "rdjenkins" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Aquatic Crinum > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: <007301c6be71$060d3ab0$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe Shaw" > To: > Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 6:34 PM > Subject: [pbs] Aquatic Crinum > > > > >>Last winter I wrote about Crinum thainum and C. natans, and a couple of >>other apparently fully aquatic Crinum >species. > >> I'd like to try growing these plants, and looked for them in a couple of >> aquarium/fish stores, but >>did not find them. >>Joe > > I Googled and found many online sources starting at about $2.50 a plant > for > thaianum and natans. > Robert. > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 11:10:37 +0200 > From: "Alberto Grossi" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Aquatic Crinum > To: "pbs" > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > > Hi Joe and all. > My crinums (thaianum and calimistratum) are growing well, but they have > not flowered. I do not know how big have to be the bulbs before blooming. > It looks like it is worth to go on. > Ciao > Alberto > Italy > > ---------- Initial Header ----------- > >From : pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org > To : pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Cc : > Date : Sat, 12 Aug 2006 17:34:58 -0500 > Subject : [pbs] Aquatic Crinum > > > > > > > >> -------------------------->>I grow thaianum and calimistratum (a var. of >> natans). They are >>completely submerged all time. In summer I put them >> into >> a >>little pond at full sun, in winter (I live in zone 8) I put>> them in >> an >> aquarium with temperature at 18-20?C. I have not>> seen the flower till >> now, >> but I hope to. There is little in>> literature about these items and >> less >> in horticulture. >>I am experimenting! >> >> --------------------------------- >> >> >> >> Hi Gang, >> >> >> >> Last winter I wrote about Crinum thainum and C. natans, and a couple of >> other apparently fully aquatic Crinum species. Perhaps the plants are >> obligate aquatics, or perhaps they are facultative. Or maybe they really >> want to be submerged most of the time, but don't require 100% underwater >> existence. >> >> >> >> Alberto (in Italy) provided a bit of information. I'd like to try >> growing >> these plants, and looked for them in a couple of aquarium/fish stores, >> but >> did not find them. No doubt, one or another will appear for sale in the >> future-fish stores seem to have erratic shipments of stock. >> >> >> >> Anyway, I wonder if Alberto's plants bloomed this year? >> >> >> >> Does anyone have a clue about hybrids between these plants and other >> Crinum? >> As near as I can tell, the genus has specialized in many ways to exploit >> seriously arid environments, forests, savannahs and grasslands, >> sometimes-flooded regions and bog-like areas, and streams. Such wondrous >> adaptation is not without precedent, but it is special and fun to learn >> about. >> >> >> >> So, if you grow the 3 or 4 (or 5 or 6) aquatic Crinum, I'd enjoy hearing >> about your experiences and observations, whether in aquaria or in the >> garden. >> >> >> >> >> >> Cordially, >> >> >> >> Joe >> >> Conroe TX >> >> No rain for a week or more, and so I've been watering the summer-growing >> bulbs. >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> > > Alberto Grossi > Italy > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 11:21:56 -0400 > From: "rdjenkins" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Aquatic Crinum > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: <001e01c6beec$37c0f670$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe Shaw" > To: > Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 6:34 PM > Subject: [pbs] Aquatic Crinum > > >>Last winter I wrote about Crinum thainum and C. natans Or maybe >>they >>really >>want to be submerged most of the time, but don't require 100% underwater >>existence. >>Joe > > What an intriguing question which naturally begs for practical > exploration! > That's on my list of to-dos now. > > Robert. > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 12 > *********************************** > > From putman@pobox.upenn.edu Sun Aug 13 13:53:15 2006 Message-Id: <44DF66F5.4060205@pobox.upenn.edu> From: Stephen Putman Subject: Crinum lugardiae Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:52:53 -0400 I have a few 2 year old seedlings of this to sell as part of the down sizing for autumn program in my greenhouse. Contact me at my address above. Steve Putman From putman@pobox.upenn.edu Sun Aug 13 13:54:40 2006 Message-Id: <44DF674B.1080801@pobox.upenn.edu> From: Stephen Putman Subject: Eucharis fosteri Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:54:19 -0400 I have a few bulbs of this to sell as part of the autumn down sizing program for my greenhouse. Contact me at my personal e-mail above. Steve Putman From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Sun Aug 13 14:08:38 2006 Message-Id: <000801c6bf03$9a067780$ba5ba551@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: eucharis grandiflora Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 20:09:21 +0200 Hello, My eucharis grandiflora is now flowering, it is the second time that she thrives this year. The flowers are not fragrant, although I had bought them for this reason.But not lamented, the flowers are nevertheless beautiful to look at. Regards, Marie-Paule Belgium From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sun Aug 13 17:27:51 2006 Message-Id: <002401c6bf1f$4f7fe130$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: eucharis grandiflora Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 17:27:40 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marie-Paule" To: "pbs" Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 2:09 PM Subject: [pbs] eucharis grandiflora > My eucharis grandiflora is now flowering. The flowers are not > fragrant > Marie-Paule That is such a shame! The fragrance is truly delightful. Robert. From writserv@nbnet.nb.ca Sun Aug 13 20:42:06 2006 Message-Id: From: Rand Nicholson Subject: eucharis grandiflora Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 21:42:01 -0300 Lucky you, although it is strange that there is no fragrance from the flowers. Mine has not bloomed since I moved over two years ago. It is putting up new growth, though. Rand in Canada >Hello, >My eucharis grandiflora is now flowering, it is the second time that she thrives this year. The flowers are not fragrant, although I had bought them for this reason.But not lamented, the flowers are nevertheless beautiful to look at. >Regards, >Marie-Paule >Belgium >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From pcamusa@hotmail.com Mon Aug 14 10:04:52 2006 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: Crinum foetidum and water Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:04:47 -0400 While I haven't tried this experiment, our rainfall can change dramatically from year to year and month to month. My experience has been that during summers of abundant, regular rainfall, many hybrid crinums send up larger numbers of scapes over longer periods of time, although this seems to vary from one hybrid to another. During scant rainfall the scapes are generally more scarce and in extended droughts only a couple will attempt to send up (usually truncated) scapes. My crinums are all grown in sand supplemented by mulch, so the drainage is generally excellent and it would be nearly impossible to overwater them. Perhaps I should put a couple of them on the drip irrigation next summer and count the scapes. Regards, -Phil >From: "Joe Shaw" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: >Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum foetidum and water >Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 12:38:30 -0500 > >------------------- >I think it would be a mistake to water well all species of Crinum. The >amount they need depends on the species. Crinum foetidum, as an example, I >found growing at Victoria Falls, in very very dry soil which was also very >compacted, being in a path from the station to the village. >----------------- > > > > > >Hi Gang, > > > >That sure sounds like one tough plant, compacted and shallow soil, and not >much water. > > > >I can't comment directly on C. foetidum, but generally speaking, many >plants >have 2 or 3 life phases. Thus, as seeds and seedlings they need conditions >that they may not encounter often as adults. > > > >As a general rule, succulent plants (including bulbs from arid areas) need >gentle conditions during the period when they are establishing. In the >American West, for certain cacti, such periods might be 2 or 3 wet years in >succession, with mild winters as well. Some seem to require such >conditions >and then 2 or 3 dry years (to kill competitors like grasses), followed by >another few wet years in order to really get established. > > > >However, once established cacti can go 2-3 years without rain, and much >longer with just a bit of rain. Such plants may not flower, or they may >flower and set seed poorly, but they are alive and ready to produce when a >good year comes along. > > > >Many bulbs of dry lands can often be found in situations that are quite wet >sometimes, clay pans and local areas of water runoff. Of course, in really >dry areas, the wet condition is not obvious most of the time and may not >occur some years. Bulbs are a storage device, storing food and water, or >perhaps rare trace elements. How much of which and in what proportions >will >depend upon the bulb type and growing conditions. Cacti (or succulent leaf >plants) similarly are storage devices, but they have evolved different >storage organs. > > > >Many cacti don't mind water, per se, if they have good drainage. In fact, >they often achieve unnatural (and sometimes ugly) growth if they have too >much water, such as here in my garden. This area may receive 40-60 inches >of rain per year; in contrast some species I grow come from areas with 5-25 >inches of rain per year. Also, precipitation is pretty much a year round >thing here, whereas desert areas may go 5 months or 10 months between >rains. > > > >I think that many bulbs will tolerate water even if they don't require it, >but prolonged soggy soil can lead to many problems. Therefore, bulbs from >dry areas will obviously benefit from excellent drainage if they are >getting >too much water. They may even benefit from other provisions such as more >perlite and stones (and less humus) so that less water is held in soil >after >gravity removes what it can. > > > >Even if a lot of care is taken with cacti, they can suffer from root rot >when grown where rains occur year-round. I combat this by doing several >things: 1) I never water mature plants (they get too much water as it >is), >2) I plant them in nearly pure scoria, sand, and perlite, with only a trace >of humus, and 3) I apply lawn fungicides to surface of the cactus pots >(just >as I would apply to a lawn, but more heavily). I like myclobutanil because >it has low toxicity for me, because it breaks down soon enough, and because >it is a systemic fungicide. > > > >Back to bulbs: bulbs from very arid places may utilize more water than we >can suppose. However, extra irrigation can result in a garden "look" as >opposed to a wild look. Also, bulbs from arid areas can be predicted to >require not-so-horrible conditions during their seedling stage. > > > >Bulbs may require a drought-induced dormancy to bloom. So, extra water in >summer may be fine but it may not be helpful for blooming. I have looked >but can find no literature out there (help me gang) where it has been >determined if C. foetidum requires a drought, or cold, or something else to >bloom. I'm under the impression that C. foetidum plants will bloom in >South African gardens where conditions are not as it might find in the >wild. > > > >Finally, it needs to be mentioned, that lessons extrapolated from other >succulents do not necessarily apply to Crinum (or other bulb plants). I >guess we all make our way in the garden or greenhouse, improvising as we >go. > > > > > >Cordially, > > > > > >Joe > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From msittner@mcn.org Mon Aug 14 10:29:10 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060814071215.02b9fcc0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 07:28:34 -0700 Dear All, On this list we have often reported when the Amaryllis belladonna start to bloom in California. Perhaps it is a rite like the Lycoris blooming in other parts of the United States and the Crinum blooming for all of you who love Crinum. I've had a lot of bulbs bloom for me this summer and if I have time I'll write about some of them in another post, but the blooming of Amaryllis belladonna for those of us who haven't had rain since May and where the garden is a bit tired is a real thrill. We've speculated what makes them bloom before. I think the consensus was that they needed a lot of sunshine and occasional summer water to do well. At least the hybrids seem to need more water. This year I have Amaryllis belladonna blooming already in abundance and some plants I have had for years that have never bloomed are sending up spikes. Since many of my others don't bloom until much later I could have blooms for a long time. So why I ask is this happening. We did have late rain, but my garden has been very dry this summer. But we had an unusually warm summer with less fog so perhaps it was the extra heat or extra sun. Unfortunately since I'm attending the IBSA symposium I may miss some of this amazing display. How about the rest of you who grow this plant? One of the ones that is going to bloom I must have had for maybe 12 to 15 years without a bloom. It was originally in a container but never bloomed so I divided them and planted them out. This one eventually got shaded by a tree, but every year the leaves came back. It's still shaded by that tree, but this year it is going to bloom. Mary Sue We're back to drippy fog the last few days after all that sunshine. Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From sueh@csufresno.edu Mon Aug 14 10:58:05 2006 Message-Id: From: Sue Haffner Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 07:52:36 -0700 Ah, my favorite subject. The Naked Ladies have been blooming here in the San Joaquin Valley for the past week. They're doing their thing in my front and back yards, both in sun and shade. On August 5th, I was over on the coast, in the Salinas area, and noted that flowers were appearing over there, as well. My bulbs get water in the summer, even though they're dormant, as I have them planted everywhere in the yard. (In fact, I've given away a carload of bulbs over the past year.) We had an especially killer heat wave in July, with temps up to 113. A lot of things in the garden have a toasted look, but the Naked Ladies look just fine. Sue Haffner Clovis CA ----- Original Message ----- From: Mary Sue Ittner Date: Monday, August 14, 2006 7:29 am Subject: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna blooming To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Dear All, > > On this list we have often reported when the Amaryllis belladonna > start to > bloom in California. Perhaps it is a rite like the Lycoris > blooming in > other parts of the United States and the Crinum blooming for all > of you who > love Crinum. I've had a lot of bulbs bloom for me this summer and > if I have > time I'll write about some of them in another post, but the > blooming of > Amaryllis belladonna for those of us who haven't had rain since > May and > where the garden is a bit tired is a real thrill. We've speculated > what > makes them bloom before. I think the consensus was that they > needed a lot > of sunshine and occasional summer water to do well. At least the > hybrids > seem to need more water. This year I have Amaryllis belladonna > blooming > already in abundance and some plants I have had for years that > have never > bloomed are sending up spikes. Since many of my others don't bloom > until > much later I could have blooms for a long time. So why I ask is > this > happening. We did have late rain, but my garden has been very dry > this > summer. But we had an unusually warm summer with less fog so > perhaps it was > the extra heat or extra sun. Unfortunately since I'm attending the > IBSA > symposium I may miss some of this amazing display. How about the > rest of > you who grow this plant? > > One of the ones that is going to bloom I must have had for maybe > 12 to 15 > years without a bloom. It was originally in a container but never > bloomed > so I divided them and planted them out. This one eventually got > shaded by a > tree, but every year the leaves came back. It's still shaded by > that tree, > but this year it is going to bloom. > > Mary Sue > We're back to drippy fog the last few days after all that sunshine. > > Mary Sue Ittner > California's North Coast > Wet mild winters with occasional frost > Dry mild summers > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From rmsachs@ucdavis.edu Mon Aug 14 14:56:18 2006 Message-Id: From: "Roy M. Sachs" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:55:40 -0700 They're blooming in Davis, too, and have been for about 2 weeks. Appears as if I'll have another 2 to 3 weeks of bloom...I grow mainly hybrids We're in the Sacramento Valley, about as different climatically from Mary Sue's near coastal location as one gets in California. In July we weathered more than 11 days in excess of 100 F (40+ C), topping out at 113 F. No rain of course, but most have been irrigated along with other geophytes. Roy From crinum@libero.it Mon Aug 14 15:04:15 2006 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Grossi" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 21:04:14 +0200 After the first heavy rains, after about two months of hot weather with no a drop of rain, A. belladonna is blooming here too, in the North of Italy, Z8a. Alberto ---------- Initial Header ----------- From : pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org To : "Pacific Bulb Society" pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Cc : Date : Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:55:40 -0700 Subject : Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna blooming > They're blooming in Davis, too, and have been for about 2 weeks. > Appears as if I'll have another 2 to 3 weeks of bloom...I grow mainly > hybrids > > We're in the Sacramento Valley, about as different climatically from > Mary Sue's near coastal location as one gets in California. In July > we weathered more than 11 days in excess of 100 F (40+ C), topping > out at 113 F. No rain of course, but most have been irrigated along > with other geophytes. > > Roy > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > Alberto Grossi Italy ___________________________________________________________________ Prestiti da 15 istituti. Tan dal 5,90% per richieste entro il 31 Agosto. Servizio gratuito. http://click.libero.it/mutuionline1 From gardenersview@earthlink.net Mon Aug 14 15:32:58 2006 Message-Id: <10632120.1155583977997.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Terry Hernstrom Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 12:32:57 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Here in the Inland Empire,(half way between L.A. & Palm Springs). Amaryllis are blooming like crazy. Summer water or not, no difference. In fact I have a box of dug up bulbs in my garden shed that are throwing spikes or blooming!!! Tough plants! Terence Hernstrom Director, Gardens & Grounds Kimberly Crest House & Gardens Redlands CA From arnold@nj.rr.com Mon Aug 14 18:30:51 2006 Message-Id: From: arnold@nj.rr.com Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 18:30:50 -0400 Terrence: You can always send the extras to the BX. Arnold From norwesgard@earthlink.net Mon Aug 14 21:38:18 2006 Message-Id: <0E5D5BB7-0339-4404-9757-2DBB0368BDFF@earthlink.net> From: Mary Gutierrez Subject: a couple of questions Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 18:33:29 -0700 I have a couple of questions. Does anybody know what the hardiness range for Neomarica gracilis is? I need to decide whether to plant it in the ground or keep it in a pot in the greenhouse. Also -- this summer I have what appear to be spider mites on my Crocosmia 'Lucifer' as well as a few different gladiolus. I've never had this problem before--anyone have experience to share? Thanks, Mary Gutierrez Seattle From susanann@sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 14 22:28:29 2006 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 19:28:12 -0700 >On this list we have often reported when the Amaryllis belladonna start to >bloom in California. Perhaps it is a rite like the Lycoris blooming in >other parts of the United States and the Crinum blooming for all of you who >love Crinum. I've had a lot of bulbs bloom for me this summer and if I have >time I'll write about some of them in another post, but the blooming of >Amaryllis belladonna for those of us who haven't had rain since May and >where the garden is a bit tired is a real thrill. **Amaryllis belladonna have been blooming here for about two weeks. I am about 5-6 hours north of Mary Sue, 15 minutes south-east of Diana Chapman, an hour and a half south of the OR border. >happening. We did have late rain, but my garden has been very dry this >summer. But we had an unusually warm summer with less fog so perhaps it was >the extra heat or extra sun. Unfortunately since I'm attending the IBSA >symposium I may miss some of this amazing display. How about the rest of >you who grow this plant? **We've had no rain to speak of since April, and our summer hasn't been particularly warm, nothing like the 90F temps we had three summers ago. I have hybrids not blooming yet in the back, but my main plants are in the front and they're the ones blooming up a storm. I got them from a fellow gardener a couple of years ago, and only some of them bloomed last year. They've had no water since April. >Mary Sue >We're back to drippy fog the last few days after all that sunshine. **And we're still at drippy fog with just a few hours of sunshine in the late morning/early afternoon. Our cistern is running dry and we've just purchased our 3rd load of water. My plants are suffering. s. -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17. 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek of the ocean. From writserv@nbnet.nb.ca Tue Aug 15 10:07:37 2006 Message-Id: From: Rand Nicholson Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 11:07:30 -0300 Hi Mary Sue & All: I have had mine for years and they have never bloomed, I always thought it was because of my northern climate - these will not overwinter here in the ground. Anyone with any thoughts on this? Rand in Maritime Canada Z 5b >Dear All, > >On this list we have often reported when the Amaryllis belladonna start to >bloom in California. snip > >Mary Sue >We're back to drippy fog the last few days after all that sunshine. > >Mary Sue Ittner >California's North Coast >Wet mild winters with occasional frost >Dry mild summers > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Tue Aug 15 14:40:40 2006 Message-Id: <002201c6c09a$488944d0$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 14:40:28 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rand Nicholson" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:07 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna blooming > I have had mine for years and they have never bloomed > Rand in Maritime Canada Z 5b I've had them for years as well and have never had any blooms in 7b. I took a potful indoors for the winter last year and may do so again this year, hoping that growing them through the winter in the warm indoors will help form buds or at least extend their season to produce a larger bulb. I guess the trick though, is getting them to send those buds on out. I dug up a clump of four bulbs this spring and they immediately went completely dormant, shedding all roots. I have kept them outdoors all summer out of the soil. Two are definitely blooming size, but without roots, I wonder if they will bloom....Do the roots signal the bulb to initiate bloom? Robert. From ang.por@alice.it Tue Aug 15 14:50:26 2006 Message-Id: <002d01c6c09b$aa1a6c00$90173b52@angelo1f9656d7> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 20:50:22 +0200 Here in south of Italy I have yet to see a flower, a few scapes are just emerging suddenly these two days, since we got a good rain last week. Till then we hadn't any drop. By converse Lycoris squamigera and sprengeri are in full bloom, squamigera started at the end of July and without any watering. I am really pleased with them, very reliable in spite of my climate. I suspect that northen locations get Amaryllis belladonna blooming earlier then southern. Would be interesting to hear from Californians from San Francisco to LA if they see any delay. In my area, without any rain or supplemtal watering, belladonna don't bloom till late August, early September being the normal time, but I use to 'drive' a flowering for mid August giving a good drench in late July. Anyway, only the normal strain of belladonna is sensitive to this trick, while other forms will wait till early September or later. Angelo Porcelli south of Italy From msittner@mcn.org Tue Aug 15 14:57:28 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060815114452.02b47fb0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 11:56:59 -0700 The word is that Amaryllis belladonna do not like to be transplanted and sometimes takes years to recover after they are moved. Or at least that is what people say. I don't know if this has been scientifically studied or not. Mine never bloomed in a container. Rand, do your grow in a container or do you dig them up every year. In my garden if they don't flower the leaves appear in late fall and winter and they grow through the wet winter and the leaves die back as the soil dries up perhaps in May. Blooms if you are going to have them occur from late July to October followed by leaves later. Warmer places seem to have blooms sooner, but also it may depend on where in your garden they are growing and some of my hybrids always bloom after the species. Joyce Miller reporting from Lester Hannibal once told me the best time to transplant them was just before they started into growth again. One year she sent me three in that state and one bloomed after I planted it. The others waited for years and the one that bloomed skipped years afterwards. The next best time to transplant is after bloom and before the leaves I understand. If Robert is going to experiment it sounds like it is time to plant his. Perhaps Bill Welch can comment on this although this is no doubt a busy time for him. Mary Sue From rarebulbs@cox.net Tue Aug 15 18:01:54 2006 Message-Id: <000c01c6c0b6$68903560$060db146@DJ9SK221> From: "Diana Chapman" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 15:01:49 -0700 > The word is that Amaryllis belladonna do not like to be transplanted and > sometimes takes years to recover after they are moved. Or at least that is > what people say. Well, my accountant gave me some bulbs that were lying in a heap behind his office. I brought them home, where they languished in a box outside for a year, pathetically trying to put up a leaf or two, before I finally planted them about a year ago. They are in bloom now. Diana From jshaw@opuntiads.com Tue Aug 15 18:31:20 2006 Message-Id: <001f01c6c0ba$899d3830$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Dioscorea discolor Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 17:31:20 -0500 Hi Gang, and Tarcisio, Today I got some seeds from Tarcisio (Tarcísio Eduardo Raduenz), Dioscorea discolor. I haven't grown the plant and don't need another plant. However, the seeds are captivating because he took the time to send them to me and because they are probably hard to come by. So, has anyone out there germinated D. discolor seeds? Unless I hear differently, I'll leave them at room temperature for 2-3 weeks and then plant them in a bright window at room temperature, before cool weather sets into chill the windowsill. Thanks, Joe Shaw Conroe TX P.S. I refer you to a charming note that Tarcisio wrote to the PBS last Fall. LINK: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2005-December/023941.html From SheriAnnRicherson@exoticgardening.com Tue Aug 15 19:18:22 2006 Message-Id: <1ae501c6c0c1$13af3b30$6401a8c0@sheri> From: "Sheri Ann Richerson" Subject: Dioscorea discolor Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 19:18:11 -0400 Hi, I germinated them in damp paper towels inside a plastic seed box in the house this winter. Sheri From barryandjac@bigpond.com Tue Aug 15 21:06:05 2006 Message-Id: <001501c6c0d0$23b6f040$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: a couple of questions Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 09:06:00 +0800 Hi Mary, I used to have problems with Spider Mites but mostly on potted colour such as African Violets. Have had issues with them also on some Gladiolus. Try spraying with Pyrethrum or Malathion. Systemic insecticides work well also but are usually quite strong and toxic (fumes not nice either although they do dissipate within a few days.) If you Google natural pesticides on the Internet you should come up with some good recipes. Garlic and Chilli ones with dishwashing liquid work well. Would be interested to hear how you go. I have just had to spray about 15 outdoor indoor potted colour but bulbs appear rel. OK this year in this respect. Happy gardening Jacinda Wilson, WA where I have Snowflakes, Cyclamen, Daffodils, Bearded Iris, Freesias, Veltheimia, Lachenalia, Tazetta Daffodils and Tritelia flowering. Also Gerberas and Primula acaulis and the new type of Primula - Rosanna flowering too. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mary Gutierrez" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:33 AM Subject: [pbs] a couple of questions "> Also -- this summer I have what appear to be spider mites on my > Crocosmia 'Lucifer' as well as a few different gladiolus." From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Wed Aug 16 00:19:30 2006 Message-Id: <007b01c6c0eb$293e3cb0$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 00:19:18 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mary Sue Ittner" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:56 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna blooming > If Robert is going to experiment it sounds like it is time to plant his. > Mary Sue I hear that, lol. I'm going to put them (back) in the ground and place the potted ones in as well. I just don't have the room indoors! The potted ones BTW, would always grow thru the winter and became leggy and weak due to insufficient light. Once outdoors in spring, they adapted after weeks of wilting in the warmth. Eventually the foliage hardened and newer foliage was firmer and less likely to wilt. They got a good dael od direct sun, but not true full sun. Robert. From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Wed Aug 16 01:20:16 2006 Message-Id: <002b01c6c0f3$a82b8c50$aee30c52@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: a couple of questions Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 06:20:14 +0100 Mary Gutierrez" wrote: > Also -- this summer I have what appear to be spider mites on my > Crocosmia 'Lucifer' as well as a few different gladiolus. I've never > had this problem before--anyone have experience to share? This is a common problem on Gladiolus and Crocosmia and can be treated with whatever technique you prefer for dealing with spider mites. I use biological control on plants under cover, but don't bother outside where infestations are usually less serious. On a stiff leaf like a Gladiolus you can run it gently between finger and thumb to manually crush the beasties. It helps a bit. We have not had a big problem with spider mite this year, luckily, and with cooling temperatures we may have escaped. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk From totototo@telus.net Wed Aug 16 17:21:42 2006 Message-Id: <20060816212141.71UPVR4R4E@priv-edmwaa05.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Spider Mites on Crocosmia 'Lucifer', was a couple of questions Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:19:21 -0700 On 14 Aug 06, at 18:33, Mary Gutierrez wrote: > this summer I have what appear to be spider mites on my Crocosmia > 'Lucifer' as well as a few different gladiolus. I've never had > this problem before--anyone have experience to share? Spider mites are a known pest of crocosmia. In my experience, 'Solfatare' (or whatever is usually sold under that name) suffers worst and 'Lucifer' generally escapes serious damage. However, the hot weather we had in late July may have encouraged the little devils. Prophylaxis is simple: a spray of water from time to time. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From totototo@telus.net Wed Aug 16 17:56:32 2006 Message-Id: <20060816215630.C186W50VWF@priv-edmwaa06.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:54:07 -0700 On 15 Aug 06, at 14:40, rdjenkins wrote: > I've had them for years as well and have never had any blooms in 7b. I > took a potful indoors for the winter last year and may do so again > this year, hoping that growing them through the winter in the warm > indoors will help form buds or at least extend their season to produce > a larger bulb. I guess the trick though, is getting them to send > those buds on out. Winter them in a frost-free environment, not a *warm* one. With as much light as you can manage. A.b. is reliable here, and our winters hover around 42F (5-6 C); this may give you a clue to overwintering them for good results. > Do the roots signal the bulb to initiate bloom? My own guess is that the bulbs respond to the cooling of the soil as the days start to shorten. From June 21 to now is 7-8 weeks (taking "now" as approximate), and the sun has gotten lower in the sky and the days significantly shorter. You might not think this would really affect soil temperatures, but walk barefooted on a beach here in mid- July and you'll scorch your tootsies. Do it in August, and there's just not the same heat in the sand. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From rmsachs@ucdavis.edu Wed Aug 16 18:11:10 2006 Message-Id: From: "Roy M. Sachs" Subject: Hippeastrum scopulorum and Eucomis 'Rosa' Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 15:10:38 -0700 I have been contacted by a former client/geophyte afficionado who would like to contact sources for Hippeastrum species (with emphasis on H. scopulorum) and Eucomis 'rosa' 9something that she saw at the Huntington Botanical Garden). Anyone with leads please contact me and I'll send you her e-mail address. Thank you Roy From gardenersview@earthlink.net Wed Aug 16 18:37:06 2006 Message-Id: <31218744.1155767826627.JavaMail.root@elwamui-sweet.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Terry Hernstrom Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 15:37:06 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Growing up in rural Illinois, ( zone 5 ). There seemed to be A. belladonna growing in every old garden. An over the fence plant I presume. They bloomed on leafless stalks every August, much like here in Mediterranean California. Most growers called them "Naked Ladies" except my grandmother, ever the progressive called them " Naked Boys". They seemed to be completly hardy and thrived on neglect. I remember they always took a few years to settle back in after being divided. Th best show were large clumps that hadn't been disturbed in decades. Someone correct me if this is a different species, but I thought there is only one. Terence Hernstrom Kimberly Crest House & Gardens Redlands, CA From jshields@indy.net Wed Aug 16 18:49:42 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060816184135.01ce2420@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 18:50:03 -0400 Terry, Unfortunately, the sins of folks using English names for plants have caught up with you! "Naked Ladies" when used in the U.S. Midwest usually means Lycoris squamigera, which is quite hardy here. In the Southwestern U.S., it probably refers to Amaryllis belladonna and to various Brunsvigia/Amaryllis hybrids. In the UK, I think it may refer to Colchicum blooms. Amaryllis belladonna just doesn't seem to like our climate here in the Midwest. Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 03:37 PM 8/16/2006 -0700, you wrote: >Growing up in rural Illinois, ( zone 5 ). There seemed to be A. >belladonna growing in every old garden. ......... ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Wed Aug 16 19:47:25 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6c18e$523687a0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 19:47:22 -0400 I have no idea what current usage for Colchicum in the UK is, but Bowles wrote that "It is known in some parts of England as Naked Boys..." Nor is it only the names which cause confusion: only this week I received a catalog from a well-known mail-order retailer of Dutch-grown plants; in this catalog there is a big, fat photo labeled Lycoris squamigera - yet the plants shown are the more photogenic Amaryllis belladonna. So Terry, you've got lots of company. But I hope it's not like the old saying: heaven for climate, the other place for company! Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where my Lycoris squamigera have finished for the year, but in other local gardens they continue. From gardenersview@earthlink.net Wed Aug 16 20:04:27 2006 Message-Id: <6964950.1155773066704.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Terry Hernstrom Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:04:26 -0700 (GMT-07:00) This type of confusion or doubt is why this PBS forum is so interesting and valuable. This is an easy one but one I bet a few more people than I feel good about being educated. The Lycoris/Amaryllis/Hippeastrum group is still being sorted out for myself and after today it became clearer. Terry Hernstrom Kimberly Crest House & Gardens Redlands CA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Aug 17 12:12:24 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris and Rain Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 11:12:11 -0500 Dear all' We have discussed this before (Ad nauseum to some), but here goes. I reported earlier about the drought and heat in my Kansas City garden. I've had a handful of Lycoris flower stalks. We have also speculated about the immediate effects of rain on stalk production. 2 days ago we had 1.3 in of rain after weeks of drought. One Lycoris bed went from 3 substandard stalks to over 25 stalks. Another went from 0 stalks to over a dozen and now stalks are appearing in every bed. Maybe a total of under a dozen stalks to over 100 stalks. These are primarily the earlier species - L. squamigera, L. chinensis and L. longituba. A few buds have also appeared in L. caldwellii and L. sprengeri, but these are usually a week or so later than the earlier bloomers. I am firmly convinced that rain does immediately influence flowering on these species and delayed rains are directly related to delayed flowering. Convinced. Now I see the obvious. Duh! Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From rarebulbs@cox.net Thu Aug 17 12:19:05 2006 Message-Id: <000601c6c218$d7288b40$060db146@DJ9SK221> From: "Diana Chapman" Subject: An appeal Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 09:18:56 -0700 This is an appeal to other mail-order nursery owners. Everyone else can skip it!! I am bombarded with e-mails asking when customers will receive their bulbs, even when I have already given as accurate an estimate as I can. If I say "August", in early August all the August people will be e-mailing me, often in very nasty terms. This is taking up a considerable chunk of my computer time each morning, and even if I respond, I still get more e-mails (it isn't here yet! Has it been sent?). Obviously, the more time I spend answering these e-mails, the less time I have to pack bulbs. The large nurseries must get inundated. Do others have this problem? Does anyone have a solution? I certainly don't want to be rude or ignore customers, but it is truly getting out of hand. Diana Telos Rare Bulbs From dejager@bulbargence.com Thu Aug 17 13:20:32 2006 Message-Id: From: Lauw de Jager Subject: An appeal (nursery owners only) Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 19:16:39 +0200 Diana, Nice to hear that you also are in the middle of the shipping period. All "PRE" orders were confirmed in writing stating a delivery date before the end of July. Now with the current wave of orders all should be sent out before week ending 2nd sept. Orders coming in now should have a 2 weeks delay. No confirmation is send out now. Maybe I should make an announcement in the "news" section of the web site that orders placed now will only be received within 2-3 weeks. How to deal with impatient customers? In principle we continue to respond rapidly and with courtesy even to the particular impatient gardeners. I think, Diana, that it is worth it and should not take up all that much time. All along the line I encourage early planting, so all is geared to get it out of the door as soon as possible. I have the impression that Europeans are less violent in their reactions (judging from Diana comments). The only problems here is when the post office has not found the right address (or the person was not there to receive it). In that case it always comes back, but it may take up to 4-6 weeks. This year all parcels are sent out with "collissomo suivi" which allows both sides to locate the parcel, which is useful in case of a return. Any way, courage, be sure to know that we are all with you "ha&rd at work in the height of the season. Greetings Lauw le 17/08/06 18:18, Diana Chapman à rarebulbs@cox.net a écrit : > This is an appeal to other mail-order nursery owners. Everyone else can > skip it!! > > I am bombarded with e-mails asking when customers will receive their bulbs, > even when I have already given as accurate an estimate as I can. If I say > "August", in early August all the August people will be e-mailing me, often > in very nasty terms. This is taking up a considerable chunk of my computer > time each morning, and even if I respond, I still get more e-mails (it isn't > here yet! Has it been sent?). Obviously, the more time I spend answering > these e-mails, the less time I have to pack bulbs. The large nurseries must > get inundated. > > Do others have this problem? Does anyone have a solution? I certainly > don't want to be rude or ignore customers, but it is truly getting out of > hand. Lauw de Jager http://www.bulbargence.com South of France (Climat méditerranéen; zone 8 Olivier) Latitude 34° N Altitude: 4m From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Thu Aug 17 13:44:06 2006 Message-Id: <20060817174405.7784.qmail@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: An appeal (nursery owners only) Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 10:44:05 -0700 (PDT) People are crazy and plant people can be the worst. I can truly sympathize with nursery owners after selling a few plants and bulbs online. People not only want immediate shipping but colors exactly the way the photo looks. Then they get the plants and they sit in their garage for 3 weeks until they die, whereupon the folks want their money back. My only suggestion, which probably isn't feasible for you, is to charge the credit card when you send out the plants, that way people will know their plants are coming. Speaking from personal experience, people get very nervous when they pay out a lot of money (and $10 is a lot to some folk) and don't immediately get something in their hand. I've run into problems from nurseries from both ends of the spectrum- paid $800 up front to an overseas seller who keeps pushing the ship date back- it's been over 3 months and no plants. The second problem was from a reputable US nursery who didn't charge me until they sent my plants- but also didn't reserve the plants for me. I ordered before their spring catalog was even announced, but when it came time to ship to zone 5, they were out of several of the flowers I ordered. We're talking several 100s bulbs here, and by the time they let me know in late May, it was too late to order from anyone else. To a cut flower grower, that is definitely not cool! Susan --------------------------------- Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min. From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 17 13:58:09 2006 Message-Id: <44E4AEBF.479F996A@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Roots & flowering Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 11:00:31 -0700 A few days ago, Robert inquired if the roots of a bulb, had anything to do with the initiation of flowering. I do not think so. It would seem that when needed chemical changes have taken place in the parent bulb, it will flower. Such changes can be brought about by cooling during the dormant period, or by being exposed to higher temperatures or by a combination of both for determined periods of time. Or the availabilty of moisture. As an example, a Lilium bulb, after prolonged cold temperatures will, without light, and still in cold storage, produce a flowering stem. Certain bulbs, such as Arum cornutum, the Voodoo Lily, will flower without any roots being produced. Just exactly what changes do take place to promote flowering I do not think have been determined. What we do know is that such changes are the result of varying temperatures being given, and for quite exact periods and in certain sequences. Perhaps there are papers on this subject, i.e. just what changes do take place, but I have not read any. No doubt there is a link between such as takes place to induce Hedera helix, as an example to produce flowering (adult) shoots. Such is also perhaps related why apple trees fruit at a certain age. If such chemicals could be determined, innoculants could be produced to speed such changes. Cheers, John E. Bryan From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Thu Aug 17 14:02:25 2006 Message-Id: <44E4AF22.6090809@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: An appeal Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 13:02:10 -0500 Dear Diane: I have had this problem. I don't blame the customer, because I'm the same way. I don't usually look for every detail about delivery on products, because I assume it is in inventory. Many bulb customers are not experts on planting times, and, especially, unaware of the fact we have to wait to get our bulbs from other locations. Anyway, this year I have attempted to make it so clear, that you would have to be asleep not to know. When the customer prints their invoice out on screen, and receives the invoice via e-mail, every single flower bulb description includes a phrase like, "Shipping by October/November". Now, I fully expect the group of bulbs related to that phrase to be completely shipped out by mid-October, so my customers won't likely begin to fidget until late October. My late shipping speculation probably looses some customers, but the ones I get will hopefully be pleasantly surprised. Last fall I had to take a break because of the move, but just about every season previous to that, my suppliers would not deliver to me when expected (eh hem... promised), so, my expected delivery date to my customer, was almost always wrong... Lots of e-mail and telephone calls. Again, I don't blame them, but it is time consuming. Anyway, just an idea. I can't prove it works until the end of the season. Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 10846 Hodge Ln Gravette, AR 72736 479-366-4968 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ Diana Chapman wrote: > This is an appeal to other mail-order nursery owners. Everyone else can > skip it!! From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 17 15:13:51 2006 Message-Id: <44E4C07D.D3144842@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: An appeal Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:16:13 -0700 Dear Diana: I understand your problem. I always give my clients a date when they can expect their bulbs, i.e. will be shipped on or about the xx of September, delivery on or about the xx September. If not received by xx of September, please contact me at that time. This seems to work well. Obviously I give a date ahead of date they should have them. Cheers John E. Bryan Diana Chapman wrote: > > This is an appeal to other mail-order nursery owners. Everyone else can > skip it!! > > I am bombarded with e-mails asking when customers will receive their bulbs, > even when I have already given as accurate an estimate as I can. If I say > "August", in early August all the August people will be e-mailing me, often > in very nasty terms. This is taking up a considerable chunk of my computer > time each morning, and even if I respond, I still get more e-mails (it isn't > here yet! Has it been sent?). Obviously, the more time I spend answering > these e-mails, the less time I have to pack bulbs. The large nurseries must > get inundated. > > Do others have this problem? Does anyone have a solution? I certainly > don't want to be rude or ignore customers, but it is truly getting out of > hand. > > Diana > Telos Rare Bulbs > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Thu Aug 17 16:58:22 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6c23f$df21cba0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: An appeal Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 16:58:20 -0400 John Bryan wrote: Obviously I give a date ahead of date they should have them. Cheers John E. Bryan John, don't you mean a date after? By giving a date after, they should have their bulbs before they expect to get them. Jim McKenney From rarebulbs@cox.net Thu Aug 17 17:02:24 2006 Message-Id: <000d01c6c240$6ba1a910$060db146@DJ9SK221> From: "Diana Chapman" Subject: An appeal Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:02:16 -0700 To all of those who have responded: Thank you!!! All of the suggestions made have been really helpful, and hopefully will lead to a better system so that I, and my customers, don't get as frustrated. I really appreciate the input and the time people have taken to give advice. Diana Telos Rare Bulbs From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 17 17:14:38 2006 Message-Id: <44E4DCCC.48E27A0F@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: An appeal Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:17:01 -0700 Yes Jim, you are (as usual) correct. Cheers, John Jim McKenney wrote: > > John Bryan wrote: Obviously I give a date ahead of date they should have > them. Cheers John E. Bryan > > John, don't you mean a date after? By giving a date after, they should have > their bulbs before they expect to get them. > > Jim McKenney > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jshaw@opuntiads.com Thu Aug 17 19:26:40 2006 Message-Id: <01f001c6c254$97a34960$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Pollen Swapping/sharing Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 18:26:37 -0500 Hi Gang, I wonder if there are folks interested pollen-sharing. The shareing could deal with various genera. For instance, I'd be interested in sharing or trading Crinum pollen with folks around the world. A. The idea would be that: 1. You send a self-addressed, postage-paid package to a gardener who has agreed to send back pollen. 2. The package should contain little envelopes for pollen transport. I find that Crinum pollen lasts in the mail if sent promptly. You can use coin envelopes, or just the cut-off corner of a regular white envelope (then you fold back the open part and seal with tape). 3. The return-postage-paid package should contain whatever form of pollen collection and shipping method that you want, but it should be easy for the sender. So, if you really want pollen dried over silica beads, you should send a little, air-tight, plastic box with the beads, and the pollen collector could just drop the coin envelopes in the box and mail items back to you. 4. Then, when you get the pollen you store it as you choose, or you could use it ASAP, etc. 5. The benefit would be that, if we plan ahead, we could have pollen stored from this season for use next season. I'm forever having flowers open and not having the pollen on hand that I would like to use. B. I don't propose a formal "pollen club," with rules etc. I thought a pollen sharing list might be interesting, but figured that is a lot of work for someone. So, I wonder if I set up a Web page for different genera. I would start with Crinum, and see how that goes. Folks could sign up, and it would be the responsibility of members to: 1) announce the avaiability of pollen, or 2) to send out a "looking for" pollen query. There are 2 benefits to the Web page approach: 1) email addresses would be protected from first-level spam machines, and 2) the burden for finding pollen would reside on someone who wants pollen (rather than potential donors). I think (but don't know) that I could set up a page where someone could send out a general query without needing to know the email addresses of the recipients. C. If you have ideas about how to make such idea work, I'd be happy to provide Web space for someone to take a shot at it. I have no real desire for more Web work (I barely understand what I am doing now), and if a wired-type individual wants to run with such a project more power to her/him. I can turn over password protected Web space for the project. It will be easy with my Web-hosting-plan to provide 100 megabytes of Web space. Good bandwidth, unlimited email addresses, unlimited email forwarding, and unlimited email autoresponders are a part of the plan. Of course, such a project would be a variation of my URL "opuntiads.com," or purchase of a new URL (not too expensive and may I could cover it). D. Let me knwo what y'all think. I know Crinum and Nerine pollen (at least some types) can last for a year after mailing if stored properly, and perhaps if not stored "properly." As bulb- and plant-nuts, perhaps we could develop something new. Much would depend upon interest level. E. Even commercial bulb operations could participate at the level they wanted. This would be beneficial for private growers and commercial operations. From my point of view, I want to see bulb nurseries succeed, even though I may not always want to purchase. Along with the IBS and similar hobby groups, bulb-selling nurseries are a prime source of information and germplasm. F. Lastly, if the PBS were at all intrested in sharing in such an endeavor, or taking the reins of such, I'd be happy to oblige and pay for the Web space for several years to come, etc. Therefore, PBS members, comment and holler, and let the officers hear from you. Perhaps pollen sharing is not appropriate for the PBS, but I get a feeling that the PBS is molded by membership energy and interests. Perhaps pollen-sharing is appropriate, but no one will know unless members let the officers know. Cordially, Joe Shaw Conore TX Hot today, about 100 F (38 C), no rain forecast, I'm out watering everything but the cacti or large succulents. I intend to trick my Crinum to put out more blooms than ever in years to come. I'm convinced they make flower initiations this summer for 1 or 2 years hence. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Thu Aug 17 19:35:39 2006 Message-Id: <020a01c6c255$d8e346e0$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: When do Flowers Form in Amaryllids Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 18:35:36 -0500 Hi Gang, I still don't have good information about Crinum. However, the material at the link below (an abstract) clearly indicates that at least some Nerine species start forming flower buds 2 seaons before the flower emerges. The final touches (egg and sperm maturation) might not happen till closer to flowering. The point is that flowering can be influenced by events that happend 2 years before you see the flowers. So, take good care of you plants if you want flowers two years hence. I suspect that Crinum follow a similar pattern. NOTE: It might be that, if plants are stressed by drought or some other factor, the two year lag-time might even become a 3- or 4-year lag time. Plants have a variety of mechanisms to gauge environmental conditions: 1) what has happended and how might such be important for seedlings, and 2) what has happend and how might such be relevant for "when to make seeds." (just a guess) If anyone has the article and cares to send it to me, I will appreciate it. I'm too much a "penny pincher" to spring for the cost. LINK: Embryogenesis and Seed Germination of Nerine http://www.actahort.org/books/430/430_18.htm Cordially, Joe Shaw Still hot in Conroe, TX From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Thu Aug 17 23:57:33 2006 Message-Id: <00e001c6c27a$6c92da80$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Pollen Swapping/sharing Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:47:49 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 7:26 PM Subject: [pbs] Pollen Swapping/sharing > I wonder if there are folks interested pollen-sharing. The shareing could > deal with various genera. > Joe Shaw I don't have anything to add to your outline, but I like the idea. I'd be interested in sharing pollen from what Amaryllids I have, Crinums and Hippeastrums. Robert. From jamievande@freenet.de Fri Aug 18 04:47:20 2006 Message-Id: <44E57E94.6010506@freenet.de> From: "JamieV." Subject: Pollen Swapping/sharing Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 10:47:16 +0200 From jamievande@freenet.de Fri Aug 18 07:43:59 2006 Message-Id: <44E5A7F4.2040206@freenet.de> From: "JamieV." Subject: [Fwd: Re: Pollen Swapping/sharing] Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 13:43:48 +0200 Jamie Vande Germany Joe Shaw schrieb: > Hi Gang, > > I wonder if there are folks interested pollen-sharing. The shareing could > deal with various genera. For instance, I'd be interested in sharing or > trading Crinum pollen with folks around the world. > > John, nice idea. I've been sending Hemerocallis pollen for some years now with excellent success. Under are a few comments. > A. > The idea would be that: > > 1. You send a self-addressed, postage-paid package to a gardener who has > agreed to send back pollen. > Will only work in the country of origin. A German stamp will not help and Englander. I would suggest one simply trusts they will receive an exchange. Otherwise, send a US dollar or a donation to PBS to do something positive! > 2. The package should contain little envelopes for pollen transport. I > find that Crinum pollen lasts in the mail if sent promptly. You can use > coin envelopes, or just the cut-off corner of a regular white envelope (then > you fold back the open part and seal with tape). > > I have used cotton swabs to contain the pollen and placed them in a small zip-lock type bag. For shipping, silica gel is unnecessary. Simply dry the pollen for a day and send it off. Most pollens will keep in the refrigerator for many years. Of course, this is but a rule of thumb, some may be very perishable. > 3. The return-postage-paid package should contain whatever form of pollen > collection and shipping method that you want, but it should be easy for the > sender. So, if you really want pollen dried over silica beads, you should > send a little, air-tight, plastic box with the beads, and the pollen > collector could just drop the coin envelopes in the box and mail items back > to you. > > > > In general, i think a list of people on the webpage with the possibly available pollen would be the best approach. > > > > > Therefore, PBS members, comment and holler, and let the officers hear from > you. Perhaps pollen sharing is not appropriate for the PBS, but I get a > feeling that the PBS is molded by membership energy and interests. Perhaps > pollen-sharing is appropriate, but no one will know unless members let the > officers know. > > > > > Cordially, > > Joe Shaw > Conore TX > > Hot today, about 100 F (38 C), no rain forecast, I'm out watering everything > but the cacti or large succulents. I intend to trick my Crinum to put out > more blooms than ever in years to come. I'm convinced they make flower > initiations this summer for 1 or 2 years hence. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > From dells@voicenet.com Fri Aug 18 09:23:09 2006 Message-Id: <20060818132309.2A8504C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Seed donations Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 09:23:01 -0400 Dear Angela, How nice! It will probably sound strange to you after all the talk about US regulations about importation. But I have no paperwork to send. I have only once had anything seized and that was because they happened to inspect and find soil. On small packages, they almost never inspect or care about phytos, import permits, etc. We spend far too much money trying to control mideast oil to have anything left over for customs inspections - or education, or healthcare. (Don't get me started!) Anyway, if you just send seeds in a padded envelope with "horticultural supplies" on the customs declaration and "NCV", I am certain they will get through. Bulbs could be a little trickier. My mailing address: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd New Hope, PA 18938 USA Let me know. Best wishes, Dell -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Angela and Dean Offer Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 8:45 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Seed donations Hello from Angela in Western Australia, would like to donate seeds, if you can send me the paperwork, if it is worthwhile for you, I have many, many, bulbs, seeds etc I am more than happy to donate. I will be in South Africa for the Clivia Conference, if it is easier for me to take seeds to South Africa to give to other members of PBS to bring back, please let me know Angela Sunny Spring, everything is blooming!! Western Australia _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From CAMdon@aol.com Fri Aug 18 10:03:18 2006 Message-Id: <8C890E62E4D2FA8-B70-20CA@FWM-D17.sysops.aol.com> From: camdon@aol.com Subject: An appeal Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 10:03:13 -0400 Here's a suggestion from someone who buys: set up an auto respond message thanking people for the messasge and updating them with your timeline. I usually don't worry about bulbs due in August unless they still haven't arrived in September. Don -----Original Message----- From: rarebulbs@cox.net To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 9:18 AM Subject: [pbs] An appeal This is an appeal to other mail-order nursery owners. Everyone else can skip it!! I am bombarded with e-mails asking when customers will receive their bulbs, even when I have already given as accurate an estimate as I can. If I say "August", in early August all the August people will be e-mailing me, often in very nasty terms. This is taking up a considerable chunk of my computer time each morning, and even if I respond, I still get more e-mails (it isn't here yet! Has it been sent?). Obviously, the more time I spend answering these e-mails, the less time I have to pack bulbs. The large nurseries must get inundated. Do others have this problem? Does anyone have a solution? I certainly don't want to be rude or ignore customers, but it is truly getting out of hand. Diana Telos Rare Bulbs _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ________________________________________________________________________ Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free. From khixson@nu-world.com Fri Aug 18 14:48:07 2006 Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20060818112505.02c842a0@mail.nu-world.com> From: Kenneth Hixson Subject: Pollen sharing Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 11:47:51 -0700 HI, Joe: >I wonder if there are folks interested pollen-sharing. I think a pollen exchange is every bit as valuable as having a seed exchange--but I also think that many of the same rules need to be applied. Limited number of requests, some kind of price with credits for donors, etc. Perhaps some of the resulting seed could be shared with the pollen donor, or with PBS, or? The rhododendron society had (? has?) a pollen bank, and pollen donated was stored in a freezer and made available when someone requested (and paid for) it. The North American Lily Society had an informal arrangement, with one member accepting requests and keeping a list of donors. That exchange only lasted a couple years. New Zealand I understand, has a much more successful pollen bank for lily pollen, and sends it to many countries. The number of people wanting pollen is most likely fewer than who want seed, but it can still be a lot of work. It might be possible to have one person hold pollen of say Crinum, Amaryllis, Brunsvigia while someone else could hold Crocus, Tulips, etc while a third could maintain the bank for Erythronium, etc. I'm interested, and would like to be kept "in the loop" about what you think would work. Ken Hixson From jshaw@opuntiads.com Fri Aug 18 18:32:53 2006 Message-Id: <00e901c6c316$3f23b780$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Crinum x 'Amelia Garza' (cross posted) Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:32:51 -0500 Hi Gang, Marcelle sent me photo today, an image of 'Amelia Garza.' It is a knockout plant for several reaons: 1. The fowers are truly huge, check the dinner plate in the photo for size comparison, 2. The flowers are delightfully fragrant, 3. It reblooms, starting in June, and; 4. It is good summer-bloomer and fall-bloomer, just taking its time and blooming when it wants, till cold weather. Marcelle reports this is the 3rd scape for the summer, and that it has 8 buds, 4 of which opened today. She writes the is is delightfully fragrant, and can perfume a room. It has been nearly 100 F (38 C) all week, some days warmer. Yet, this found plant keeps on blooming. Marcelle reports that she's getting around a lot in the garden, and that she is increasing her plants as best she can. Maybe she'll be up for business in a year or two--who can say. I guess that when a tree and a porch (both) fall you you, causing a broken pelvis (and other bones) as well as a small stroke, you just take things one day at a time. Right after Marcelle got home from the hospital Hurricane Rita hit East Texas; she's been busy recovering her health and garden ever since. Thus, there is no way to predict when she'll be offering her beauties for sale. Many of you have enquired and I don't know the answer. LINK: New photo, Crinum x 'Amelia Garza' http://www.opuntiads.com/photos/amelia-garza.jpg LINK: Info Page, Crinum x 'Amelia Garza' http://www.crinum.iconx.com/html/crinum-found/crinum-amelia-garza.html Cordially, Joe Shaw From jshaw@opuntiads.com Fri Aug 18 18:48:54 2006 Message-Id: <010301c6c318$7c442530$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Trading/Sharing Crinum Pollen Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:48:17 -0500 Hi Gang, There sure are some clever PBS members out there. Following advice I got, I set up an email list at Yahoo. I did not make the pollen-trading group publicly listed, but once you find the Web page, I think anyone can join (no approval needed). You can share the URL with garden friends. I typed up some quick etiquett notes (guidlines) and anyone can join. The ideas is that, if you are looking for pollen, or if you have pollen to share, you post a note to the crinumpollen list. If you find you can't join, or unjoin, etc., just drop me an email note. I'll see if I can help, but the idea is that the list should mostly be on autopilot. Also, the list is not really set up to deal with biology or garden questions--that is what the PBS is for. There are no pictures or folders, etc., just a plain vanilla email correspondence list. LINK: Crinum Pollen Exchange http://groups.yahoo.com/group/crinumpollen/ Cordially, Joe Shaw P.S. If this format is as simple as it seems, anyone else can start a Nerine Pollen Exchange, etc. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Fri Aug 18 19:25:08 2006 Message-Id: <05d401c6c31d$87c28d20$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Crinum x 'Amelia Garza' (cross posted) Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 19:24:52 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 6:32 PM Subject: [pbs] Crinum x 'Amelia Garza' (cross posted) > Marcelle sent me photo today, an image of 'Amelia Garza.' It is a > knockout > Joe Shaw Absolutely astounding! O.M.G. That is truly out of this world! Thanks for sharing, Joe. Robert. From ixia@dcsi.net.au Fri Aug 18 19:44:18 2006 Message-Id: <001c01c6c320$3a9b1690$0201a8c0@Ixia> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: Trading/Sharing Crinum Pollen Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 09:44:16 +1000 Hi Joe, Your'e idea is a great one. I am certainly happy send you pollen from Australia as/and if it becomes available. I have some Crinum and quite a few Hippies as well as Lilium and others. The good thing about this is that you can store it away and use it as you need it. Lillium pollen stores quite well and there is a Lilium pollen bank in New Zealand run by their Society and it is shared all over the world. BTW, I've just joined your new group with no problems. regards, Bill Richardson, Ixia King Winter -2c. to 15C.. at present West Gippsland, Victoria, Australia ixia@dcsi.net.au Ixia Website: www.angelfire.com/ri/ixia "Almost any garden, if you see it at just the right moment, can be confused with Paradise" Henry Mitchell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 8:48 AM Subject: [pbs] Trading/Sharing Crinum Pollen > Hi Gang, > > There sure are some clever PBS members out there. Following advice I got, I > set up an email list at Yahoo. > > I did not make the pollen-trading group publicly listed, but once you find > the Web page, I think anyone can join (no approval needed). You can share > the URL with garden friends. > > I typed up some quick etiquett notes (guidlines) and anyone can join. The > ideas is that, if you are looking for pollen, or if you have pollen to > share, you post a note to the crinumpollen list. > > If you find you can't join, or unjoin, etc., just drop me an email note. > I'll see if I can help, but the idea is that the list should mostly be on > autopilot. Also, the list is not really set up to deal with biology or > garden questions--that is what the PBS is for. There are no pictures or > folders, etc., just a plain vanilla email correspondence list. > > > LINK: Crinum Pollen Exchange > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/crinumpollen/ > > > Cordially, > > Joe Shaw From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Fri Aug 18 04:41:37 2006 Message-Id: <00bc01c6c327$fee06ee0$4629b57c@angelaslaptop> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Pollen Swapping/sharing Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:39:54 -0700 More than happy to send pollen, I believe pollen is not a problem to send to the USA? Angela angelasgarden@bigpond.com Albany Western Australia - beautiful warm spring weather, everything is starting to bloom!!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "rdjenkins" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 7:47 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Pollen Swapping/sharing > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe Shaw" > To: > Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 7:26 PM > Subject: [pbs] Pollen Swapping/sharing > > > >> I wonder if there are folks interested pollen-sharing. The shareing >> could >> deal with various genera. >> Joe Shaw > > I don't have anything to add to your outline, but I like the idea. I'd be > interested in sharing pollen from what Amaryllids I have, Crinums and > Hippeastrums. > > Robert. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From barryandjac@bigpond.com Fri Aug 18 20:40:49 2006 Message-Id: <000701c6c328$18200e60$0100000a@user01> From: "Jacinda and Barry" Subject: Seed donations Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 08:40:39 +0800 Hi Angela, Have a lovely trip. You are a fortunate lady. Very envious! Kind regards to all at the PBS. Jacinda Wilson, West. Australia currently blooming, white "Lady Friend" Bearded Iris, Narcissus "Little Gentleman",Lachenalia, Triteleia, Veltheimia (about to flower) , a UFO daffodil!, Scilla campanulata, Tazettas, lots of Gerberas, Primula acaulis, the new Primula range, Polyanthus, Cyclamen, Orchids of various types. From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Fri Aug 18 04:47:22 2006 Message-Id: <00d301c6c328$cd60f730$4629b57c@angelaslaptop> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Seed donations Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:45:21 -0700 Hello from Angela in Western Australia, would like to donate seeds, if you can send me the paperwork, if it is worthwhile for you, I have many, many, bulbs, seeds etc I am more than happy to donate. I will be in South Africa for the Clivia Conference, if it is easier for me to take seeds to South Africa to give to other members of PBS to bring back, please let me know Angela Sunny Spring, everything is blooming!! Western Australia From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Fri Aug 18 22:20:33 2006 Message-Id: <20060819022032.35598.qmail@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: Trading/Sharing Crinum Pollen Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 19:20:32 -0700 (PDT) gREAT idea, Joe. It might be too late for your crinumpollen group, but may I suggest to anyone else starting a group that you set it up so members need to be approved before joining. If you set it up that way people just write a short note saying why they want to join, that note goes to the list owner, who needs simply hit "reply" and send to allow the member to join. That's all the effort it takes. I recently had to shut down the calla lily list because of all the idiots that joined to spam and talk nonsense. Susan --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta. From ashley.cooper@new.co.za Fri Aug 18 23:13:48 2006 Message-Id: <026801c6c33d$5e73da30$be70ef9b@mykecbcb148b69> From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" Subject: Pacific BX 124 Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 05:12:50 +0200 May I please have 6. Spiloxene capensis -- White or pink Regards Myke From plantlady@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Fri Aug 18 23:40:01 2006 Message-Id: From: "Linda Foulis" Subject: Trading/Sharing Crinum Pollen Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 21:43:00 -0600 Hello Joe, I would also put more restrictions on your group, you may be asking for trouble otherwise. Can it be pollen from other bulbs as well? I have hippie and clivia pollen in storage. Sending a SASE will only work if you're in the same country. I would suggest if a request comes in that whomever has the pollen just sends it, it shouldn't cost more than a single stamp which for me to send from Canada to the US is a mere $.89. To send internationally $1.49. Small price to pay if I were promised a couple seeds from my pollen donation. Just a thought. Linda Foulis Okotoks, AB Canada And yes, I've already joined the group. I would love to pollinate my clivia with something other than itself! From DaveKarn@aol.com Sat Aug 19 02:09:30 2006 Message-Id: <365.c2e2fd6.32180516@aol.com> From: DaveKarn@aol.com Subject: An appeal Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 02:09:26 EDT Diana ~ Perhaps, I've just been lucky or, maybe, it is just the nature of my particular business. I have, basically, just one product (although in considerable variety!) -- daffodils. I truthfully am unable to recall an instance where I was badgered by a customer wanting to know when an order was shipped. It just may be that those who are familiar with -- and mail order -- spring-flowering bulbs have been conditioned over the years not to expect to see them until at least after Labor Day. In your particular instance with so many different bulbs/corms/tubers, etc., you may have a mix that has to be shipped over a much longer time span and different from the concentrated shipping pattern of something like daffodils. If possible, you could state something appropriate along the line of: "Shipping begins the first week of September. Orders are filled and shipped strictly in order of original receipt, i.e., the earliest orders are first. All orders are sent at the appropriate time for successful planting in your area. For the northern tier of states and New England that is the first week of September. Transit time is expected to take up to five days." As for the email hassle, I really like the suggestion of an "auto response" put forth by Don Carndon? Camdon? Seems like a very good way to recognize and answer concerns of customers, yet one that doesn't ignore their concern or heavily involve your time in an answer. Best, Dave Karnstedt Cascade Daffodils Silverton, OR 97381-0237 email: davekarn@aol.com From dells@voicenet.com Sat Aug 19 09:26:19 2006 Message-Id: <20060819132618.EC3844C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX 124 Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 09:26:09 -0400 Just in the nick of time. I have just begun packaging and can stretch the supply of that one. Cheers, Dell -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Myke Ashley-Cooper Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 11:13 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific BX 124 May I please have 6. Spiloxene capensis -- White or pink Regards Myke _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From writserv@nbnet.nb.ca Sat Aug 19 10:08:55 2006 Message-Id: From: Rand Nicholson Subject: Eucharis Grandiflora Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 11:08:49 -0300 Hi All; Mine is sending up bloom stalks after three years of sulking. Can't wait. Rand in Canada From jshields@indy.net Sat Aug 19 12:12:36 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060819121122.01cbaa40@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Trading/Sharing Crinum Pollen Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 12:13:01 -0400 Joe, I've joined the crinum pollen group. I have to say that I agree with Susan about screening new members. You can probably go back and changes some of the setup parameters for that. Jim Shields At 07:20 PM 8/18/2006 -0700, you wrote: >gREAT idea, Joe. > >It might be too late for your crinumpollen group, but may I suggest to >anyone else starting a group that you set it up so members need to be >approved before joining. If you set it up that way people just write a >short note saying why they want to join, that note goes to the list owner, >who needs simply hit "reply" and send to allow the member to join. That's >all the effort it takes. > >I recently had to shut down the calla lily list because of all the idiots >that joined to spam and talk nonsense. >Susan ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Sat Aug 19 13:03:46 2006 Message-Id: <001601c6c3b1$889917c0$37155351@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: eucharis grandiflora Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 19:04:29 +0200 Hi, I've taken my eucharis a few day's ago inside, but, the flowers do not want give there fragrans for me, but I am already glad if they thrive. Regards, Marie-Paule Belgium From J.Joschko@gmx.de Sat Aug 19 14:55:45 2006 Message-Id: From: "J. Joschko" Subject: X Hippestrelia Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 20:55:48 +0200 Hi all , I can offer for swap some bulbs of X Hippestrelia "Red Beauty" ( cross between Hippeastrum + Sprekelia ). Sorry - only Europe - it is to difficould to send bulbs oversea . Please contact me private : J.Joschko@gmx.de Best wishes from Germany Hans From msittner@mcn.org Sun Aug 20 10:49:50 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060820065813.02c77ff8@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Summer blooms Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 07:49:27 -0700 The weather has been more typically cool in August with morning fog sometimes lasting into afternoon and overcast, but the Amaryllis belladonna/A. b. hybrid spikes keep appearing in places I've obviously planted them where they have never bloomed before so it is really very exciting. Some of those places have multiple spikes forming so they had been expanding in spite of not blooming. And unlike Jim Waddick's Lycoris, rainfall is not what stimulates bloom since we've had none since May if memory serves me. Even though we've watered every now and then, if you dig in the soil down very far, it is bone dry. Since I'm leaving for the IBSA symposium early next week I'll miss seeing what some of them will look like. My friend Jana gave me some she purchased from Bill Welch so they could be really gorgeous. It was a good summer for my naturalized Dieramas. I finally got blooms from one I got from Telos years ago as a gift for finding the mistake in the catalog. It was supposed to be dark purple, but the color matches most of the rest of the ones I grow and is more what I think of as magenta or dark pink but obviously what Diana thinks is dark purple. I believe that transplanting sets these back. I'm hoping the Marilyn has finally got the ones I was going to throw away (as I was sure they wouldn't grow) to bloom. They survived being on the ground out of soil without roots when she transplanted them weeks later after convincing me she wanted them even though I didn't think they'd make it. Another bulb that has been incredible this summer is my Alophia. It has bloomed and bloomed for months so that even though the flowers are fleeting it has produced a lot of them. I also had good blooms from Gelasine elongata. These flowers are also fleeting and close as the day gets warmer, but the plants have attractive pleated foliage and it appears are happy in my northern California garden. It looks like none of the pictures on the wiki illustrates the foliage very well so I'll need to write myself a note to add to add a picture of that. This one definitely blooms better for me in the ground. I had some other plants that I couldn't figure out what they were and thought maybe they were Babianas because of the leaves and finally gave up and planted them out and it turns out they were Gelasine not at all happy to be treated like Babianas and dried off in summer. The late blooming Gladiolus were wonderful this year. I also had blooms from the beautiful Cypella aquatilis that Diana Chapman gave me at the bulb meeting at her house and from Cypella osteniana. The flowers of these South American Irids fascinate me with their complexity. I think however I've just about given up on Tigridia which was so happy in my hotter garden in Stockton. And yesterday there was the first gorgeous bloom on Hesperoxiphion peruvianum so it looks like I'm going to miss it mostly. Sir Peter Smithers found if you didn't let it go to seed and kept pinching off the spent bud each day it would keep blooming. And my Bessera is going to bloom, but hasn't so I'll miss it too. And a Trimezia given to me by one of our members in Texas has a bud, but will have to bloom today or tomorrow or I won't see it either. On the other hand Milla biflora has bloomed for a long time as the different corms in the pot have bloomed one at a time and I love those large white flowers. Two very exciting events were first blooms from Scadoxus. It has been down to the wire as every day Scadoxus multiflorus opens a bit more. I moved it to my greenhouse hoping to speed it along so I wouldn't miss it. Another Scadoxus that I guess is S. multiflorus is blooming in the leaves and it was just by chance that I saw it. Once again I have few blooms from my Eucomis so perhaps this is not a plant I can successfully flower regularly. I'm sure the bulbs I have are big enough. The early blooming Cyclamen are blooming and the leaves appearing on some of the other species. My first Gladiolus that blooms before the leaves is in bloom and G. carmineus spikes appearing here and there. Moraea polystachya leaves are showing and a few Oxalis. So the cycle begins again. As much as I will miss seeing the bulbs wake up in my garden I am really looking forward to seeing many of you on this list who live far away at the bulb symposium in South Africa. And they have had a lot of winter rainfall so those of us traveling there will no doubt have some amazing botanizing. If people need help while I'm gone with the list write Arnold or Susan and Jay, Susan, and Linda can help with wiki requests. Mary Sue From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sun Aug 20 11:23:38 2006 Message-Id: <001201c6c46c$962b25c0$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Eucharis amazonica and blooming. Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 11:23:25 -0400 I experimented this year with mine. They are large enough to bloom (they really aren't large bulbs at maturity anyhow). This I know because they flowered last year. I get repeated blooming by letting them go to the dry side for a period of time, maybe a mont, and during that time I give them water without fertilizer. Than, I put them back on full watering (they're rain forest in origin so they like good moisture levels, just not too wet or you get oedema in the foliage) with a full strength liquid fertilizer with "quarter-strength" thereafter. This will usually be followed posthaste with flowering. Now to the experimental part. This year I read that it was a mistaken belief to think that E. amazonica needed the wet-dry treatment to flower. The writer said that if temps were in the suitable range (80s F) they would flower in response to that alone and didn't need to be restricted nutritionally. So I decided to try that. And they haven't flowered once. AFAIK, form my own experience, the wet-dry-hungry treatment followed by food and good moisture usually results in blooming! That was what I did and got good results and when I did the opposite, nothing. I won't be doing that again! For what it's worth. Robert. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sun Aug 20 18:14:25 2006 Message-Id: <00d901c6c4a6$00732840$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Crinum asiaticum germination Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 17:14:24 -0500 Hi Gang, From time to time I have seeds of tropical-type Crinum. The mother plants are garden forms of C. asiaticum or similar plants; the leaves can be red, green, slim, or wide. Very often the seeds are huge. The seeds often take a long time to germinate. Typicaly, I put them on top of good soil in a 2- gallon container and leave them under a porch where they get rain, bright light, and no frost even though there might be frost on the grass some feet away. Indoors germination has not sped things up. Because they are Crinum, I tried a couple of obvious variations (several months just sitting dry, etc.), but there is no fooling these seeds. The seeds take their time to germinate, each germinating on its own schedule. Sometimes these "tropicals" germinate soon after they come out of the pod, even while half in the pod and spilling out; sometimes waiting till the following spring. I wonder if anyone has the same experience. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX Not so hot today, but still no rain. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sun Aug 20 18:47:02 2006 Message-Id: <010b01c6c4aa$8f0fce60$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Bessera elegans, Alophia drummondii Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 17:47:02 -0500 Hi Gang, A. Bessera elegans is blooming for the first time for me. I have been delighted with the plants so far. I got small bulbs from an email friend last spring. I put them out and then forgot about them, after a time they put up some bits of leaf and I set them in a 2-gallon container with Aloe plants of similar container size. I let the rain water them in spring and I did feed them lightly once or twice. It has been a very hot summer, with 2 dry spells and I have not provided supplemental water. Yesterday I saw a bloom, and now I know why folks would grow this plant. The bloom it not large, but it is beautiful and an attractive scarlet, a bit brighter than oxblood lily. I think these are worth increasing for front porch pot culture and summer bloom. I hope they survive the winter; if they don't mind the winter rain the ground doesn't freeze. B. I saw the note about Alophia blooming. The plants I have are generally locally collected and I scarcely notice them most of the year, if at all. The are found in east Texas and south Texas, and nearby areas, but I have always found them in sandy soil, very sandy soil. The soil may or may not have lots of humus, but it is always sandy and very quick draining. Therefore, I have planted my own plants in similar soil in pots with Agave or Aloe, etc., or else I have put them in elevated beds of sandy soil. It is very true that the blooms are ephemeral; I drove home one day for lunch, hoping to get a photo of an open bloom I had seen in the morning. The bloom was history by 12:30 p.m; so beautiful and well worth growing, bus so ephemeral. The plants make seed easily, a single flower will set 20-30 or more seeds, but they are reluctant to germinate for me unless I leave them outside over the winter in a 1- or 2-gallon container of very sandy soil--in which case germination is easy. For me, in this climate, I have never seen the plants blooming after July. They seem to do their best in May, and can repeat in June or July (but not a lot of repeat). I wonder if the repeat bloom may not have been an offset or a seedling beside the mother plant; they are small plants and I haven't paid a lot of attention to them buried as they are in spiny plants. Mostly, they are just a delightful part of the "cover crop" I try to keep growing on large containers to provide a bit of shade (things like sedums, dryland sedges, or a semi-weedy annual Portulaca). Cordially, Joe Still hot, but not 100 plus any longer. From pcamusa@hotmail.com Sun Aug 20 20:54:39 2006 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: Crinum asiaticum germination Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 20:54:35 -0400 I usually end up harvesting the large asiaticum seeds after they have been on the ground, baking for a few weeks (not on purpose, just a scheduling problem). A few seeds will have germinated on their own after a couple of months. Generally, I bury half to 3/4s of each seed so there is a good bit of the top showing and then put the pots in partial shade so they probably get no more than one or two hours of direct sun each day. Success rates are generally very good, but I also notice that some germinate fairly quickly and others from the same plant are quite delayed. In general, I think that partially burying the seeds speeds germination up a bit but I haven't rigorously tested this. Have you noticed more rapid germination if you harvest seeds directly from the pods vs after the pods have split? I notice that many hymenocallis seeds often act the same for me. I was loathe to bury them, since they are green and I assume their photosynthesis apparatus is working, however, I have fully buried seeds from the local hymenocallis that grows on the dunes and find it speeds germination and I get a 100% germination rate. I have assumed that its due to reducing dessication. Regards, -Phil >From: "Joe Shaw" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: >Subject: [pbs] Crinum asiaticum germination >Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 17:14:24 -0500 > >Hi Gang, > > >From time to time I have seeds of tropical-type Crinum. The mother >plants >are garden forms of C. asiaticum or similar plants; the leaves can be red, >green, slim, or wide. Very often the seeds are huge. > >The seeds often take a long time to germinate. Typicaly, I put them on top >of good soil in a 2- gallon container and leave them under a porch where >they get rain, bright light, and no frost even though there might be frost >on the grass some feet away. Indoors germination has not sped things up. >Because they are Crinum, I tried a couple of obvious variations (several >months just sitting dry, etc.), but there is no fooling these seeds. > >The seeds take their time to germinate, each germinating on its own >schedule. Sometimes these "tropicals" germinate soon after they come out >of >the pod, even while half in the pod and spilling out; sometimes waiting >till >the following spring. I wonder if anyone has the same experience. > > > >Cordially, > > >Joe >Conroe, TX >Not so hot today, but still no rain. > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From totototo@telus.net Mon Aug 21 10:37:28 2006 Message-Id: <20060821143724.2DVWALW3RP@priv-edtnaa05.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Repotting Tecophilaea Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 07:37:18 -0700 I've just finished repotting my _Tecophilaea_cyanocrocus_, the three usual forms, the type, var. leichtlinii, and var. violacea. I took a hint from discussion on this mailing list last year and repotted them from the usual 2.5 liter ("one gallon") pots into the next size up, abt. 7 liters capacity or so. As I have done for some years, they were potted into a sandy mix rich in granite canary grit. Supposedly the slow release of potassium from fine granite grit is beneficial. The type form and var. leichtlinii seem to have done well and formed a reasonable number of flowering size corms, but var. violcacea formed only what you might call "half size" corms. I'll keep the pots on the front porch (north facing) until there's some signs of foliage, sometime in the fall or winter, then move them to as sunny a spot as I have, with overhead shelter from the rain. They'll be moved to safety in a frost-free storage room if a serious cold wave threatens. Comments? Suggestions for better growth? -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon Aug 21 12:15:28 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060821091313.00c53e98@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Repotting Tecophilaea Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 09:16:14 -0700 Rodger asked, The type form and var. leichtlinii seem to have done well and formed >a reasonable number of flowering size corms, but var. violcacea >formed only what you might call "half size" corms. In my experience, violacea is markedly less hardy than the typical T. cyanocrocus. I don't think there is any important difference between ssp. cyanocrocus and ssp. leichtlinii; judging from the description of the rediscovered wild populations, they are just color variants, the latter having more white in the throat. I grow mine in a mix with a lot of pumice (including fines), which is what they would have in the wild; it provides ample iron and potassium. Jane McGary From totototo@telus.net Mon Aug 21 13:40:22 2006 Message-Id: <20060821174019.44F5WLRL7U@priv-edtnaa06.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Cyclamen from Cuttings of Floral Trunks? Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 10:40:14 -0700 I'm nuking a patch of Vinca minor with some Cyclamen hederifolium scattered in it. Hard, dirty, hot work using a Japanese farmer's knife to undercut and then rolling back the tangled mat of stems, leaves, and roots. In the process, I unavoidably severed the floral trunks arising from one especially deeply seated cyclamen. The old brain cogitated and the thought arose "I wonder if the mythical process of rooting floral trunks really works?" This is just a preliminary notification that I've taken these pieces of floral trunk, the longest no more than half an inch, dabbled them with rooting hormone (Stimroot #2), and put them into a pot of perlite with abt. 25% peatmoss, a fairly standard mixture for cuttings. More news later when either success or failure attends my efforts, but in the interim I'm wondering, has anyone on the pbs mailing list successfully rooted floral trunks of cyclamen? -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From J.Joschko@gmx.de Mon Aug 21 13:54:22 2006 Message-Id: From: "J. Joschko" Subject: Cyclamen from Cuttings of Floral Trunks? Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 19:54:26 +0200 Hi Rodger , To your question with floral trunks : I could report you of a sucsessfull rooting of Cyclamen purpurascens - without any problems . A friend of mine send me some plants - and from some are broken the floral trunks . I decide it to try - and after next repotting I could see that all this floral trunks has build a new tuber . Many greetings Hans -----Ursprungliche Nachricht----- Von: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]Im Auftrag von totototo@telus.net Gesendet: Montag, 21. August 2006 19:40 An: Pacific Bulb Society Betreff: [pbs] Cyclamen from Cuttings of Floral Trunks? I'm nuking a patch of Vinca minor with some Cyclamen hederifolium scattered in it. Hard, dirty, hot work using a Japanese farmer's knife to undercut and then rolling back the tangled mat of stems, leaves, and roots. In the process, I unavoidably severed the floral trunks arising from one especially deeply seated cyclamen. The old brain cogitated and the thought arose "I wonder if the mythical process of rooting floral trunks really works?" This is just a preliminary notification that I've taken these pieces of floral trunk, the longest no more than half an inch, dabbled them with rooting hormone (Stimroot #2), and put them into a pot of perlite with abt. 25% peatmoss, a fairly standard mixture for cuttings. More news later when either success or failure attends my efforts, but in the interim I'm wondering, has anyone on the pbs mailing list successfully rooted floral trunks of cyclamen? -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From pcamusa@hotmail.com Mon Aug 21 21:14:05 2006 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: Iris domestica Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 21:13:59 -0400 I have a well-behaved, undemanding clump of Belamcanda that is about three years old. I have read that it is short lived and the plant dies off after blooming. I haven't experienced this yet but perhaps I'm about to. Does anyone know if seed is really the only method of propagation? Also, is the hybrid, pardancanda, equally drought tolerant? Thanks! -Phil From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Tue Aug 22 07:51:28 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6c5e1$4c2367a0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Scilla scilloides, Iris dichotoma Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 07:51:25 -0400 Scilla scilloides is blooming here in Maryland. And Iris dichotoma continues to bloom freely. This plant has been very good this year, and it's been a real pleasure to see the new crop of blossoms every afternoon for the last few weeks. The single clump I have has four or five "fans", and on many days there have been over a dozen flowers opening. The flower color is such a soft, subdued gray-blue that it does not have a big impact, but it is very lovely when seen close up. Earlier this year, when Lycoris squamigera was blooming, I thought the Iris dichotoma and the Lycoris would make good companions (as they grow here now, they are not close together). The iris is also very nice with some lavender now blooming with it - the flower colors are very close. If the Iris lasts into colchicum season, that should provide some handsome partners. And now I can see that the Scilla scilloides and the Iris dichotoma make a nice combination, too. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where we've been enjoying wonderful weather lately: warm to hot days and cool nights. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Tue Aug 22 18:37:10 2006 Message-Id: <009d01c6c63b$83e04140$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: How about that Wiki Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 17:37:11 -0500 Hi Gang, When I got a moment away from my Crinum-mania, I looked at many pages of the PBS Wiki. It sure has gotten to be a wonderful Web resource. And it is a nice place to learn what some of my email friends are growing (Cynthia put a nice photo of Hippeastrum puniceum) and Lee (who has been kind to me in trades) has put up some great Hippeastrum images. Arnold (who is kind enough to send me reprints of old articles now and then) has put up good information about that horrible Narcissus Bulb Fly. And so on; it is a nice way to learn and a nice way to learn about the interests of others. Perhaps I'll get to the other genera in time, but for now I'm stuck on the amaryllids. I don't even want to think about the pages of pages of hybrids; the species pages are several encyclopedias. The link to the Indigenous Bulb Association of South Africa was a nice find too (http://dip.sun.ac.za/~herbst/IBSA/). There is much to learn and see in the world and some days I think I've just begun. Cordially, Joe Conroe TX Crinum americanum robustum is blooming; the various clumps bloom from mid-to late summer, or sometimes fall. They can repeat but not apparently from the same stem). From jshaw@opuntiads.com Tue Aug 22 20:13:29 2006 Message-Id: <001401c6c648$f89fb940$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Crinum viruses Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 19:13:31 -0500 Hi Gang, Two or three years ago there was a nice bit of discussion about Crinum viruses, here at the PBS. I remember doing some research on the matter and since that time I've been thinking about Crinum viruses. In the past few months I have written to multiple colleagues on several continents, and I'll be writing up that information soon. But the really amazing thing is that there is almost no scientific information, at least little published in recent decades. There are 2 possible viruses that might cause mosaic on Crinum, Hippeastrum Mosaic Virus (HiMV), and Crinum Mosaic Virus (CriMV). It seems possible that the 2 viruses are very closely related, or even the same virus, but perhaps not (no data). No other virus type has been described (ever) for Crinum. Thus, yellowing-type viruses, or necrotic lesion-causing viruses, etc., have not been described. Of course, Crinum are not a big "crop" for the horticultural trade and it is possible that many viruses remain undiscovered merely because no one has bothered looking. In other words, government Plant Health Departments, or individual professors, or other researchers, may choose to research problems that are more immediately related to global food production, etc. The 2 viruses that have been mentioned are potyviruses (named after potato virus Y, a well studied member of the group). Generally, potyviruses are transmitted by aphids or by "mechanical means." Mechanical transmission means (to me) that if you use shears to cut one plant (leaves or bulbs), and the same shears to immediately cut another plant, that transmission may occur. In contrast, mechanical transmission typically does not happen by leaf-to-leaf toucing in garden. Thus, leaves from 2 plants that blow around in the wind, and which may have tearing or rips, don't seem to transmit the virus to each other. I hope to put images up soon, which I think are caused by insect damage, pesticide damage, mosaic viruses, heat stress, fungi, etc. For my own part, unless I find out about a new type of virus, I assume that all I have to deal with is a mosaic-causing virus that is transmitted by cutting tools or aphids (not sure of the species). I have kept a few possibly-virused plants on one side of my yard, but have kept them over-treated with systemic insecticide so that (I suppose) any aphid will no have a chance to infect plants 100-200 feet away. Additionally, I have placed some possibly virus-infected plants near healthy plants of different types. I'm waiting for more time to pass, but in the past 18 months no mosaic symptoms have shown up on the healthy plants next to plants with mosaic. Sometimes it can take years for virus symptoms to show up (not often, but sometimes). I think gravepine cuttings imported from Europe into the USA require a 5+ year quarantine just to "make sure" they are clean. Cordially, Joe Conroe TX Rain may be on the way (about time), lots of thunder and lightning, and my little dog is is hiding from the noise. From daffodil@xnet.co.nz Wed Aug 23 06:09:15 2006 Message-Id: <008b01c6c69c$2c656c40$0200a8c0@Dads> From: "Bill Dijk" Subject: Repotting Tecophilaea Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 22:09:04 +1200 Hi Rodger, In addition to Jane McCary's excellent potting mix, I personally would add a few grains of a well balanced, 8-9 months slow release, low nitrogen, NPK fertiliser with trace elements (available from most garden centres) As a rule I add it to most of our mixes, including the Tecophilaea type form and variety violacea, with outstanding results and good sized corms. From seed I usually get them to flower after 3 years. Best wishes, Bill Dijk Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. >> The type form and var. leichtlinii seem to have done well and formed >> a reasonable number of flowering size corms, but var. violcacea >>formed only what you might call "half size" corms. >> > In my experience, violacea is markedly less hardy than the typical T. > cyanocrocus. I don't think there is any important difference between ssp. > cyanocrocus and ssp. leichtlinii; judging from the description of the > rediscovered wild populations, they are just color variants, the latter > having more white in the throat. > > I grow mine in a mix with a lot of pumice (including fines), which is what > they would have in the wild; it provides ample iron and potassium. From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Wed Aug 23 12:44:03 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6c6d3$544b2dd0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Colchicum season 2006 underway; Habenaria blephariglottis Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 12:43:54 -0400 Buds of the first of this season's colchicum are up; these are from a plant received last autumn as the cultivar 'Disraeli' and not yet proven. Also in bloom in the bog trays: Habenaria (Platanthera) blephariglottis. Bonaventure, are yours blooming now? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where an overnight soaking in a deep pot of water the other day has brought a pot of Zephyranthes grandiflora into bloom again. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Wed Aug 23 15:41:56 2006 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Summer blooms Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 12:41:54 -0700 On Aug 20, 2006, at 7:49 AM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > Since I'm leaving for the IBSA > symposium early next week I'll miss seeing what some of them will look > like. > > As much as I will miss seeing the bulbs wake up in my garden I am > really > looking forward to seeing many of you on this list who live far away > at the > bulb symposium in South Africa. And they have had a lot of winter > rainfall > so those of us traveling there will no doubt have some amazing > botanizing. > > Mary Sue > > Given all the people on this and other lists from various countries who are going to South Africa soon for the IBSA symposium and/or the Clivia Conference, as well as the great rainfall they've had this winter, I am **so** envious. You all are going to have such a great time there, I just know it. Having been there only once (as well as to quite a number of other countries), I know South Africa is a fantastic place to visit anyway. So this makes the envy all the worse. Therefore, I want to hear all about everyone's trips there, what they see, who they met with and had fun with, plant shows, wildflower tours, everything no matter how off-topic. I know Jim Shields is going to try to write about his travels there: > I'll also make an attempt to keep an on-line diary of some of our > activities in a "blog" style (more or less). Just go to our home page > at: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ and select the link to "South > Africa 2006 Blog" on the first page. > So please share the great times with all the rest of us who are stuck in our home countries this time around. This year sounds like a can't-miss opportunity that I, unfortunately, will have to miss. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a From piabinha@yahoo.com Wed Aug 23 16:20:41 2006 Message-Id: <20060823202040.72910.qmail@web51915.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: white Zephyranthes Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 13:20:40 -0700 (PDT) greetings. some time ago, i got some bulbs from the exchange that were "mixed" rainlilies. the donor apparently had them mixed up or lost the tags and they were listed as unidentified or mixed. they have bloomed and seem to be all of one type, with white flowers. any ideas of what species it could be? also, do the flowers only last one day? ========= tsuh yang __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From PameladAZ@aol.com Wed Aug 23 17:48:27 2006 Message-Id: <324.a9436ad.321e2726@aol.com> From: PameladAZ@aol.com Subject: white Zephyranthes Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 17:48:22 EDT Dear Tsuh- Your rain lilies must be Z. candida. Pamela P Slate, Master Gardener P.O. Box 5134 Carefree AZ 85377 480.488.8453 From samclan@redshift.com Wed Aug 23 23:27:01 2006 Message-Id: <001701c6c72d$2b0f3330$8cab3442@authoriu> From: "samclan" Subject: Summer blooms Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 20:26:35 -0700 Lee this is a great idea. As another very envious pbs-er, I would also love to hear all about the Symposium and Conference. Shirley GREEN Meneice ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Poulsen" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 12:41 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Summer blooms > On Aug 20, 2006, at 7:49 AM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: >> Since I'm leaving for the IBSA >> symposium early next week I'll miss seeing what some of them will look >> like. >> >> As much as I will miss seeing the bulbs wake up in my garden I am >> really >> looking forward to seeing many of you on this list who live far away >> at the >> bulb symposium in South Africa. And they have had a lot of winter >> rainfall >> so those of us traveling there will no doubt have some amazing >> botanizing. >> >> Mary Sue >> >> > > Given all the people on this and other lists from various countries who > are going to South Africa soon for the IBSA symposium and/or the Clivia > Conference, as well as the great rainfall they've had this winter, I am > **so** envious. You all are going to have such a great time there, I > just know it. Having been there only once (as well as to quite a number > of other countries), I know South Africa is a fantastic place to visit > anyway. So this makes the envy all the worse. > > Therefore, I want to hear all about everyone's trips there, what they > see, who they met with and had fun with, plant shows, wildflower tours, > everything no matter how off-topic. I know Jim Shields is going to try > to write about his travels there: > >> I'll also make an attempt to keep an on-line diary of some of our >> activities in a "blog" style (more or less). Just go to our home page >> at: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ and select the link to "South >> Africa 2006 Blog" on the first page. >> > > So please share the great times with all the rest of us who are stuck > in our home countries this time around. This year sounds like a > can't-miss opportunity that I, unfortunately, will have to miss. > > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 1859 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try SPAMfighter for free now! From rozannb@peak.org Thu Aug 24 18:17:51 2006 Message-Id: <1426.208.51.49.147.1156457870.squirrel@webmail.peak.org> From: rozannb@peak.org Subject: (no subject) Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 15:17:50 -0700 (PDT) I grew a Belamcanda from seed and had a nice clump for years outside of Eugene, Oregon. Each year more blooms with no sign of diminishing on the clay soil. Now I live on the coast with sandy soil and have started a new clump. Hope it does as well here. The seed pod is interesting in dried arrangements. Rozann Brittain From dells@voicenet.com Fri Aug 25 16:39:42 2006 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 125 Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2006 16:39:01 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 125" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash, check, or Paypal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: .... Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com . If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Mary Sue Ittner: SEEDS: (Winter growing unless described otherwise) 1. Calochortus Mariposa mixed-- I just scooped up a bunch of seed pods from random pots. I don't hand pollinate so they are probably all hybrids anyway (argillosus, catalinae, luteus, superbus, vestae likely candidates) 2. Gladiolous carneus- pink form, see wiki, gorgeous 3. Gladiolus geardii-- best with year round water I think as not dormant long. Can grow successfully in a pot, but in a deep pot in my raised plunge beds where the soil stays much more moist than in the ground, has many more blooms 4. Lachenalia contaminata-- not dormant long, late blooming 5. Pasithea caerulea-- true blue flowers, few seeds probably just for one person 6. Watsonia coccinea-- One of my favorites. Not tall, bright red flowers, doesn't take over your garden (but sometimes misses a year of bloom) BULBS: 7. Ixia sp. (Found it's way into some of my pots. Could be a hybrid or could be Ixia polystachya. Sure to be one of the ones that is easy for me in my climate. A lot of them fade away never to be seen again and some expand and expand. 8. Muscari botryoides -- nice blue, grew from Nargs seed so hope this is right species. It's one of those that produces lots of offsets. I find this less likely to happen planted deeply in large pots. Most Muscari have a short dormancy for me if they don't dry out completely. 9. Narcissus species-- Sorry but I set these apart to share and did not write down what they were and then had a senior moment. I think they are Narcissus bulbocodium var. tenufolius and descendents of bulbs given by Bill Dijk to another BX in March 2000. My notes indicate that ones planted in my raised beds bloomed from February to April this year. The only other ones I've repotted so far as Narcissus cantabricus, another wonderful early blooming species, but I think they are probably the other. 10. Romulea bulbocodium (ones originally from Jane called nivalis) Romulea bulbocodium aff. -- These are wonderful bulbs, blooming very reliably, easy from seed and increasing every year. I think I now have enough pots of them however and am sharing extras. They were grown from seed exchange seed misnamed Romulea linaresii and Romulea ramiflora . Most people consider these plants to be a form of Romulea bulbocodium even though some books describe that species as having a stigma that overtops the stamens and these flowers have short stigmas about the same height as the stamens. 11. Tritonia pallida-- Grown from seed of plants I think were labeled T. pallida, but I grow lots of Tritonia so these are no doubt hybrids 12. Tritonia sp. -- Cormlets of larger bulbs that look like Tritonias that appeared in my mystery bulb pots, also no doubt hybrids. From Jim Fisher: 13. Bulbs and bulblets of Oxalis hirta. These and their ancestors were originally received from Mary Sue Ittner. It flowers for me in November and multiplies rapidly. Flowers deep pink with a yellow throat." From Lynn Makela: BULB(lets) / Corm(lets): 14. Nothoscordum filipponei (syn? Ipheion sellowianum) 15. Oxalis melanosticta 'Ken Aslet' 16. Oxalis purpurea 'Garnet' 17. Oxalis brasiliensis SEED: 18. Habranthus gracilifolius (estensis?) 19. Zephyranthes primulina 20. Zephyranthes reginae 21. Zephyranthes macrosiphon 22. Zephyranthes commeroniana Thank you, Mary Sue, Jim and Lynn !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From gardenersview@earthlink.net Sat Aug 26 11:33:26 2006 Message-Id: <18571086.1156606406358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Terry Hernstrom Subject: Chile Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 11:33:26 -0400 (EDT) Dear All, I have an unusual and selfish request. Have any of you fine people been to Santiago, Chile? My wife and I will be there on a business trip at the end of October. Would love to visit Public Gardens, nurseries, growers, nature preserves etc. Geophyte related a plus. Any advice or tips? Thanks, Terry Hernstrom Director, Gardens & Grounds, Kimberly Crest House & Gardens Redlands, CA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Aug 26 12:27:27 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060826091003.00c50ef8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Chile Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 09:28:38 -0700 Terry Hernstrom asked, "I have an unusual and selfish request. Have any of you fine people been to Santiago, Chile? My wife and I will be there on a business trip at the end of October. Would love to visit Public Gardens, nurseries, growers, nature preserves etc. Geophyte related a plus. Any advice or tips?" I'm sure Osmani Baullosa will be the best source on this, but I can recommend some favorites I enjoy as a fellow "outsider": Not plant-related, but do not miss the superb Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino, in the city center. Buy any and all Chilean-published plant books you see, because they are impossible to get anywhere else! There are two good shops for them in a little arcade in the Providencia district, in a pleasant shopping area right on the Metro line. The little lane comes off Providencia just before Ave. Antonio Bellet, and it has a "pub" with a red London phone booth where it intersects with the main street. For a good plant-related day trip, if there is not too much snow in the mountains still, visit the Lagunillas ski area south of Santiago, where you will see some snowmelt species in bloom in October. Don't bother to go to the hot springs up the same road -- the area around them is completely "goated." If you can, get over to the coast north of Valparaiso and drive along the Panamericana (main highway) to see Alstroemeria species and native bulbs in flower, as well as MANY plants that should be grown in California but, inexplicably, are not. A pleasant midday stop is the seaside village of Pichidangui, where the public beach access spot features a spectacular plant community. The best place to get maps (and also a lot of good geographical books) is the Instituto Geografica Militar, which is near the city center in a neighborhood of government buildings. I think they have a website. You will probably find that public plantings are of introduced species, not native ones -- just like public plantings almost anywhere! Take the opportunity to see the native species during the coastal spring, though you'll be too early for the high alpines. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Aug 26 15:39:00 2006 Message-Id: <00cf01c6c947$4937c310$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Rainlilies Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 14:39:01 -0500 Hi Gang, A. There are so many types of rainlilies, 3 or more genera and zillions of species and hybrids. Some don't really seem like the classic rainlily: a heavy rain can't tease them into blooming. But, they mostly all have the look and the feel of rainlilies, sort of like miniature Hippeastrum (or related). Many rainlilies don't have great substance, the flowers can fade in a day. But, many of the most ephemeral have exquisite Chinese-porcelain-like colors, or most memorable pastels. Even if they seem to fade in a day, some types will put up flowers for a week when they decide to bloom. B. I try to grow rainlilies in 2-gallon nursery containers. In truth, if I measured the volume I think it would be closer to a gallon or 1.5 gallons max. I put in fast-draining soil that has some humus and some very coarse sand. Sometimes, I have mixed Styrofoam peanuts or put the peanuts at the bottom of the container; the rainlilies don't seem to care. Styrofoam is a wonder additive for some potting soils because it seems to created air pockets that many plants like. However, mixed-in or in the bottom 2 inches of the pot, Styrofoam is a nuisance when repotting. Windy days are not for repotting anything with Styrofoam. Even thought I like 2-gallon containers, I really like 3- or 4-gallon containers because they are deeper. Rainlily roots like to find depth even if they don't always occupy deeper regions. I guess (not sure ) that excess water drains into the deeper regions or (almost the reverse) the deeper regions hold a bit of extra moisture in dry times. I keep rainlilies in pots because such culture provides a bit of protection from weeds. Living in a mild-winter climate, with year round rains, weeds can acquire the features of an ill-meaning, super-powered, space creature-eating woodpiles, brick piles, and perhaps slow moving people. Pot culture does not eliminate weeds, but semi-regular attention combined with 2 inches of wood chip mulch (or similar), does a lot to limit weeds in pots. I think the same treatment would work in flowerbeds, but I'm far too lazy to constantly weed flowerbeds. C. I have named rainlilies, and seedlings grown from named rainlilies (open pollinated), and I have unknown rainlilies. They are all delightful and all that I have tried have been hardy here in zone 9a/9b. They like a bit of fertilizer in spring (whenever leaves start showing), and they like water now and then if there is a drought. However, they also seem to thrive on regular irrigation (such as next to a well watered lawn) as long as they have soil that drains adequately. I have yet to try/find/hear-about a rainlily that enjoys wet feet. D. I often put rainlilies into large containers of other plants such as 15-30-gallon pots of Yucca, Agave, and some other xeric plants. The rainlilies may not increase as fast as they might in soils with more organic matter, but they do find and bloom beautifully when they feel like it. Some of the more precocious rainlilies have even reseeded in large pots, dealing with spare soil and a big Yucca plant (e.g., C. citrina and C. chlorosolen). LINKS: Fadjar's Rainlilies (one of many links to Farjar) http://www.geocities.com/fadjar_z/Fadjar/fadjar3.htm LINK: Rain Lilies (2 words) in Texas http://home.att.net/~larvalbugbio/rainlily.html LINK: Notes on Hardy Rainlilies (PBS archives) http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2005-May/021225.html LINK: Zephyranthes citrina, naturalized in Hawaii http://www.hear.org/starr/hiplants/images/thumbnails/html/zephyranthes_citrina.htm Cordially, Joe A bit of rain this week has brought out some pretty rainlilies-names unknown. From arlen.jose@verizon.net Sat Aug 26 21:35:13 2006 Message-Id: From: "arlen jose" Subject: Lycoris Chinensis Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 21:36:54 -0400 Hello Folks, My question has two parts. Is this a good time of the year to plant this Lycoris? Does anyone know of a source for this plant? Warm Regards, Fred Biasella Cambridge (Boston) MA USDA Zone 6b From jshields@indy.net Sun Aug 27 10:06:44 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060827100104.01b96fe8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Lycoris Chinensis Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 10:07:09 -0400 Hi all, Now would do for transplanting Lycoris bulbs. If they are blooming, you could at least find them! Lycoris chinensis, sprengeri, and longituba are in bloom now. L. caldwellii is about to bloom. All these are spring-growing, so they can be transplanted any time between ca. July and January, depending on your climate. I never disturb them when they are in leaf, so I flag the location of the bulbs I want to move, either when they are in leaf or when they are in bloom. I prefer to move these Lycoris in September or October. Be careful to preserve as many roots on each bulb as possible. Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 09:36 PM 8/26/2006 -0400, Fred wrote: >Hello Folks, > >My question has two parts. Is this a good time of the year to plant this >Lycoris? Does anyone know of a source for this plant? > >Warm Regards, >Fred Biasella ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun Aug 27 14:50:50 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris Chinensis Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 13:47:15 -0500 Dear Fred; This is as good a time as any to transplant Lycoris. Be careful and try to not disturb the roots. They can be transplanted almost any time while they are dormant, depending on species, from June 1 to end of August. The true species has become uncommon in commerce, but is regularly offered by Plant Delights and Fairweather Gardens nurseries. Both can be googled and it may be best to inquire if they are not listed this year. It should do just fine in the Boston area. Jim W. ps Incidentally bulbs purchased dried out in Oct November have been severely stressed and there are survival problems. If they survive they may take 3 or more years to recover and bloom. and They prefer a moist shaded spot. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From Antennaria@aol.com Sun Aug 27 15:16:41 2006 Message-Id: <568.4a398f2.32234992@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Codonopsis sp. - need an identification Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 15:16:34 EDT Hello, Spontaneously appearing in my garden, twining up through a rhododendron, is a Codonopsis species. I don't have any Codonopsis in the garden, so its appearance is somewhat of a mystery. Possibly I tossed out some old seed, or dumped some soil from ungerminated seed flats. The leaves are glabrous, widely elliptical, and arranged in 4-part whorls. The large, waxy, egg-like buds started opening just last week, near the end of August 2006. The flowers are milky green-white on the outside, and dull purplish inside (with a faint bluish sheen)... solid purplish on the upper half, white heavily spotted purple in the lower half. Two photos taken in the rain today (8/27/2006): http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/im_codonopsis.htm Anyone know what species it might be? I tried to make an identification online using a Google search, but find there are many, many species, it's rather confusing, and I haven't been able to pinpoint an ID. PS. This message also sent to Alpine-L. Since there is a wiki page for Codonopsis, I thought I'd post this to PBS as well. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Sun Aug 27 17:22:56 2006 Message-Id: <44F20D19.4040703@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Lycoris Chinensis Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 16:22:33 -0500 Fred: I will start offering them again next spring. Still no chinensis bloom here, though. The only ones really doing much are the L. sprengeri. The L. longituba were just a tad ahead here. I'm still not getting bloom of a fully recovered transplanting, and it's been two seasons. With this particular mass transplanting, I dug bulbs with remnant roots, placed in 5 gallon buckets of water, on one day (September-ish, 2004), then transplanted to the new location the next day. Should have been very little stress (relatively speaking). I'm happy to see the Lycoris blooms that I am seeing and feel really confident about availability next spring. Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 10846 Hodge Ln Gravette, AR 72736 479-366-4968 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ arlen jose wrote: > Hello Folks, > > My question has two parts. Is this a good time of the year to plant this > Lycoris? Does anyone know of a source for this plant? > > Warm Regards, > Fred Biasella > Cambridge (Boston) MA > USDA Zone 6b > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Aug 27 17:25:59 2006 Message-Id: <44F20DE5.1040508@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Lycoris Chinensis Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 17:25:57 -0400 Here in currently wet New Jersey L. longituba has finished and L. sprengeri is just coming into full bloom. Arnold From tony@plantdelights.com Sun Aug 27 17:28:29 2006 Message-Id: <44F20E80.2000009@plantdelights.com> From: Tony Avent Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 17:28:32 -0400 Jim: We started out growing our lycoris in shade, but over the years experimented with them in our full sun rock garden. Interestingly, they have flowered and multiplied much better there (full sun) than in light shade. Has anyone else noticed this Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent James Waddick wrote: > Dear Fred; > This is as good a time as any to transplant Lycoris. Be > careful and try to not disturb the roots. > They can be transplanted almost any time while they are > dormant, depending on species, from June 1 to end of August. > > The true species has become uncommon in commerce, but is > regularly offered by Plant Delights and Fairweather Gardens > nurseries. Both can be googled and it may be best to inquire if they > are not listed this year. > > It should do just fine in the Boston area. Jim W. > > ps Incidentally bulbs purchased dried out in Oct November have been > severely stressed and there are survival problems. If they survive > they may take 3 or more years to recover and bloom. > and > They prefer a moist shaded spot. > > > From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Sun Aug 27 18:10:26 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6ca25$97840450$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 18:10:22 -0400 Here's a response from another Jim. My impression is that Lycoris do better in areas where the foliage gets plenty of sun. I suspect that many of the reports of Lycoris thriving in the shade are based on observations made during their blooming period, when deciduous woody plants are in full leaf and herbaceous growth in general is still burgeoning. Those same sites will generally be found to be very sunny during the winter when Lycoris foliage is active. Those such as Lycoris radiata which produce foliage in the late summer or early autumn need all the sun they can get in our climate. Those such as Lycoris squamigera which begin to produce foliage in late winter likewise respond well to strong sun exposure. The most floriferous planting of Lycoris squamigera I have ever seen was in full blazing sun: a field where seemingly thousands bloomed from a planting naturalized long ago. On the other hand, I also know from personal experience that Lycoris squamigera will give light, erratic bloom in areas where it is shaded throughout the year. A week or two ago while visiting in western Virginia Lycoris squamigera was to be seen in bloom in every small town, typically by the front porch, around mail boxes, in curbside plantings or even marking abandoned foundations. All of these were getting plenty of sun. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Lycoris squamigera grows like a weed. From bonaventure@optonline.net Mon Aug 28 00:26:05 2006 Message-Id: From: bonaventure@optonline.net Subject: Colchicum season 2006 underway; Habenaria blephariglottis Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 04:26:04 +0000 (GMT) Yes Jim, my Platanthera blephariglottis are just finishing blooming. They went up from 3 spikes last year to 7 this year.I wrote a little description of them, along with the Pecteilis (Habenaria) radiata growing with them, and e-mailed it to some of my hort-friends and I'll forward it to you. I'll also send the text to the pbs list, I have a horrible time trying to maneuver to the edit page to add photos to the wiki. Bonaventure Message: 1 Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 12:43:54 -0400 From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: [pbs] Colchicum season 2006 underway; Habenaria blephariglottis To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" Message-ID: <000001c6c6d3$544b2dd0$2f01a8c0@Library> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Buds of the first of this season's colchicum are up; these are from a plant received last autumn as the cultivar 'Disraeli' and not yet proven. Also in bloom in the bog trays: Habenaria (Platanthera) blephariglottis. Bonaventure, are yours blooming now? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where an overnight soaking in a deep pot of water the other day has brought a pot of Zephyranthes grandiflora into bloom again. From bonaventure@optonline.net Mon Aug 28 00:43:39 2006 Message-Id: From: bonaventure@optonline.net Subject: Colchicum season 2006 underway; Habenaria Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 04:43:38 +0000 (GMT) Sorry Jim if I sent it to you 3 times with the pics attached, my email was saying it was not going through! Anyway here are my (rare in this busy gardening and work season) written notes.... This year these tuberous rooted orchids came up great in their captive containers. The containers have holes drilled in about two inches from the bottoms to allow some water to pool there. They are regularly flushed by rain water, and on dry days, collected rain or distilled water. In winter the containers are moved up against the east facing concrete foundation of the house and covered with a tarp. I suppose they do freeze through solidly on occasion. Both plants started from 2 original tubers many years ago. The Platanthera blephariglottis is in pure New Jersey inland "sugar sand" although a mat of sphagnum has established itself on some of the surface and a venus Fly Trap was introduced this year. A few pea-like Pecteilis radiata tubers were tucked in there last year also. Only this container received a weak fertilizer solution on rare occasion last year and also early this spring. The larger Pecteilis alone container are in living sphagnum moss only. This has grown up rather high and has smothered Sarracenias, Droseras, and all else but a stray Pogonia ophioglossoides strand and a few Elepogon Carson orchid plants. No fertilizer was ever put there. The Platantheras opened in mid-July and the Pecteilis late July. It is interesting to note that both species were once included in the genus Habenaria. Fertile seeds of a cross between the two that I made last year have been sent out for sowing. Bonaventure Magrys coastal (Raritan Bay shore) central New Jersey From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Mon Aug 28 04:44:11 2006 Message-Id: <003c01c6ca7e$212b3e50$4b061452@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 09:44:07 +0100 Jim McKenney wrote: The most floriferous planting of Lycoris squamigera I have ever seen was in > full blazing sun: a field where seemingly thousands bloomed from a > planting > naturalized long ago. > I should love to see such a sight - or indeed almost any Lycoris at all, this country being a notoriously no-grow area for the genus. But my question is, how do such displays develop? Is it from seed? Are the ones observed in western Virginia adorning 'every small town' passed from garden to garden in a neighbourly fashion? John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Mon Aug 28 05:13:41 2006 Message-Id: <004401c6ca82$3cee0970$4b061452@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: wild Colchicum autumnale Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 10:13:31 +0100 One of the botanical specialities of Gloucestershire is the British native Meadow Saffron, Colchicum autumnale. It is not confined to this county, but is perhaps most abundant here. I know of and have heard of several sites, but somehow had never seen it in flower until last week when I passed a roadside population lower down this valley and noticed it was in bloom. As it is on a bend this is not a very convenient place to stop, so I decided to look for flowers elsewhere. In the past Colchicum autumnale was an abundant meadow plant, but most old meadows have been destroyed by ploughing. Indeed, I have heard of a meadow near here where the topsoil was deliberately scraped off to remove the colchicums, lest they poison stock - although all the evidence suggests that domestic animals avoid the growing plant and the dried leaves are harmless. In consequence the Colchicum survives mostly in woodland, but only ancient woodland, i.e. where woodland has persisted for several centuries. Most of the woods round here were originally planted by H.J. Elwes in the 1890s, and can be told by the preponderance of beech or other 'exotic' species, and the depauperate understorey. They were planted on bare fields in an attempt to generate at least a long-term income from the rather lean soils of this area. A few patches of ancient woodland survive on the estate, however, although they have also often been augmented by other trees, and have always been managed as a timber and fuelwood resource - ancient woodland does not imply 'old growth'. It is the continuity that matters. As such they are an important refuge for many interesting plants, such as Helleborus occidentalis and Paris quadrifolia, and are carpeted by bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) in spring. The trees are mostly ash (Fraxinus excelsior) with a few oaks, and hazel (Corylus avellana) in the understorey. The tract of woodland to which I went yesterday has had a major session of timber extraction and understorey clearance in the past few years, leaving surving trees to thicken up and the understorey to redevelop in the traditional English management tradition. This opening of the canopy has had an immediate effect on the vegetation. Most attractively, it has enabled the tuft-foeming grass Deschampsia caespitosa, much beloved of modern garden landscapers, to flourish, and this was decorating considerable areas with its golden plumes. Much less pleasantly, the brambles (Rubus 'fruticosus' ) have 'taken off' covering the ground in a vicious tangle. As I was wearing shorts and trainers my legs and ankles were lacerated. But it is amongst the brambles that the colchicums were flowering, just getting going with their first flowers. They are a warm pink, with a trace of tesselation and really very lovely in their setting. I saw no sign of variation, but will return later in the week, suitably clad, to see if any is visible among a larger number of flowering plants. Larger, brighter species and cultivars of Colchicum have a more deserving place in gardens, but I doubt any of the season will give the same pleasure as these wildlings in their wood. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Mon Aug 28 08:35:38 2006 Message-Id: <000d01c6ca9e$778e3610$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 08:35:37 -0400 John Grimshaw asked, with respect to mass displays of Lycoris squamigera " But my question is, how do such displays develop? Is it from seed?" One of the things about Lycoris squamigera of which younger people have no reason to be aware is its changed commercial status in recent years. There was a time when it was, to use the local expression, "dirt cheap". I did a double take the first time I saw bulbs being offered for $8.00 each. I can remember when they were a quarter (i.e. twenty-five cents)! In the past, this plant was evidently not all that highly esteemed. It's nothing new: it's been in our gardens since the nineteenth century, and from the beginning it was known as a hardy garden plant even in the north. If it has significant pests or diseases, I have not heard of them. Once planted, it's likely to persist indefinitely. Knowledgeable growers probably regarded it as an understudy for Amaryllis belladonna, a distant second best to be sure in my opinion. It was often marketed as a gimmick: some of the names used for it, which range from appeals to the pious ("resurrection lily") to the salacious ("naked ladies") suggest that copy writers had a good time with this one. To its ultimate disadvantage, the plant became widely known as hardy amaryllis: that name only called attention to its shortcomings in comparison to fragrant, elegant Amaryllis belladonna. Lycoris squamigera is what I think of as a "boy's plant": it has what it takes to appeal to the relatively unsophisticated expectations of a child. It's the sort of tough, nearly indestructible plant a doting aunt or grandparent can give to one of the young members of the family in the hope of encouraging an interest in gardening. Please don't regard the above as faint praise as I go on to say how much I like this plant. Taken on its own merits, it's one of those plants I would not want to be without. But the simple truth is that one very rarely sees it used in local gardens a way which brings its best qualities to the fore. It often seems to have been sited as an afterthought, with little regard for its companions. Nor is that surprising: although it is capable of making a big splash, splash it certainly is: the blooming season is relatively brief, and most gardeners apparently have not regarded this brief display as worthy of more than superficial treatment in the garden. Someone long ago suggested growing them among Hosta - I would use H. ventricosa in particular. And they would be lovely rising over a wide mass of one of the taller forms of Ageratum houstonianum or Iris dichotoma. Now to address John's question directly: how did those gardens which display this plant in masses acquire such largesse? Almost certainly by simply planting the once inexpensive bulbs in masses at the very beginning. I know a small local garden where the two dominant plants are Matteuccia struthiopteris and Lycoris squamigera: there are probably many hundreds of each. The Matteuccia were obtained inexpensively from a mail order dealer far to the north who sold collected plants, and at the time the garden was planted the Lycoris was comparatively inexpensive, too. Lycoris squamigera does not as far as I am aware set viable seed under garden conditions; in fact, it has long been regarded as a hybrid of Lycoris sprengeri (which does set viable seed readily and which it resembles so much). So the big displays one sees are not the result of propagation by seed. The bulbs divide readily and grow lustily in our climate. It's a real job to dig an old clump, especially if the bulbs have worked their way down into the soil. The culture of this plant is little different than that of garden daffodils, and with that in mind, it's a mystery why they are now so expensive. The same might be said of Sternbergia lutea - and for the same reasons. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where it's a good thing the naked ladies make their departure well before the naked boys show up! From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Mon Aug 28 08:49:17 2006 Message-Id: <001701c6caa0$5fe50320$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 08:49:17 -0400 First of all, let me apologize if this turns out to be a double posting. I sent this to the list by mistake as an HTML document earlier. John Grimshaw asked, with respect to mass displays of Lycoris squamigera " But my question is, how do such displays develop? Is it from seed?" One of the things about Lycoris squamigera of which younger people have no reason to be aware is its changed commercial status in recent years. There was a time when it was, to use the local expression, "dirt cheap". I did a double take the first time I saw bulbs being offered for $8.00 each. I can remember when they were a quarter (i.e. twenty-five cents)! In the past, this plant was evidently not all that highly esteemed. It's nothing new: it's been in our gardens since the nineteenth century, and from the beginning it was known as a hardy garden plant even in the north. If it has significant pests or diseases, I have not heard of them. Once planted, it's likely to persist indefinitely. Knowledgeable growers probably regarded it as an understudy for Amaryllis belladonna, a distant second best to be sure in my opinion. It was often marketed as a gimmick: some of the names used for it, which range from appeals to the pious ("resurrection lily") to the salacious ("naked ladies") suggest that copy writers had a good time with this one. To its ultimate disadvantage, the plant became widely known as hardy amaryllis: that name only called attention to its shortcomings in comparison to fragrant, elegant Amaryllis belladonna. Lycoris squamigera is what I think of as a "boy's plant": it has what it takes to appeal to the relatively unsophisticated expectations of a child. It's the sort of tough, nearly indestructible plant a doting aunt or grandparent can give to one of the young members of the family in the hope of encouraging an interest in gardening. Please don't regard the above as faint praise as I go on to say how much I like this plant. Taken on its own merits, it's one of those plants I would not want to be without. But the simple truth is that one very rarely sees it used in local gardens a way which brings its best qualities to the fore. It often seems to have been sited as an afterthought, with little regard for its companions. Nor is that surprising: although it is capable of making a big splash, splash it certainly is: the blooming season is relatively brief, and most gardeners apparently have not regarded this brief display as worthy of more than superficial treatment in the garden. Someone long ago suggested growing them among Hosta - I would use H. ventricosa in particular. And they would be lovely rising over a wide mass of one of the taller forms of Ageratum houstonianum or Iris dichotoma. Now to address John's question directly: how did those gardens which display this plant in masses acquire such largesse? Almost certainly by simply planting the once inexpensive bulbs in masses at the very beginning. I know a small local garden where the two dominant plants are Matteuccia struthiopteris and Lycoris squamigera: there are probably many hundreds of each. The Matteuccia were obtained inexpensively from a mail order dealer far to the north who sold collected plants, and at the time the garden was planted the Lycoris was comparatively inexpensive, too. Lycoris squamigera does not as far as I am aware set viable seed under garden conditions; in fact, it has long been regarded as a hybrid of Lycoris sprengeri (which does set viable seed readily and which it resembles so much). So the big displays one sees are not the result of propagation by seed. The bulbs divide readily and grow lustily in our climate. It's a real job to dig an old clump, especially if the bulbs have worked their way down into the soil. The culture of this plant is little different than that of garden daffodils, and with that in mind, it's a mystery why they are now so expensive. The same might be said of Sternbergia lutea - and for the same reasons. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where it's a good thing the naked ladies make their departure well before the naked boys show up! From jshields@indy.net Mon Aug 28 09:03:57 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060828090023.01cca688@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 09:04:23 -0400 I've posted a couple pictures of Lycoris hybrids blooming now in our garden. Images have been posted in the FloraPix Gallery By: Jim Shields Group: Bulbs - Path: gal/Bulbs/Lycoris_[longituba_x_rosea]_1041.jpg Lycoris [longituba x rosea] [Garden origin] This hybrid Lycoris came from the Shanghai Botanical Gardens. It is hardy in central Indiana (USA), USDA cold zone 5. This bulb is growing under a young Ash tree, in very dry soil. image/jpeg, size: 602 x 400 pixels - 29 KB Image: http://floraPix.nl//spgm-1.4.4/gal/Bulbs/Lycoris_[longituba_x_rosea]_1041.jpg By: Jim Shields Group: Bulbs - Path: gal/Bulbs/Lycoris_[chinensis_x_haywardii]_1042.jpg Lycoris [chinensis x haywardii] [Garden origin] This hybrid Lycoris came from the Shanghai Botanical Gardens. It is hardy in central Indiana (USA), USDA cold zone 5. This bulb is growing in a very dry, shady bed. image/jpeg, size: 602 x 400 pixels - 36 KB Image: http://floraPix.nl//spgm-1.4.4/gal/Bulbs/Lycoris_[chinensis_x_haywardii]_1042.jpg Gallery: http://botgard.bio.uu.nl//spgm-1.4.4/index.php?spgmGal=Bulbs&group=Bulbs Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 28 11:35:07 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 10:31:38 -0500 Dear All; A number of topics have been brought up here that I think I can address at least in part. Sun or Shade - I have seen a few species in bloom in the wild in a few locations and many in bloom in cultivation. Most species are found only in shade, but your definition of shade 'depends' . They are common in woodland edges where they may get a brief exposure to full sun, others are in open deciduous woodlands. In both cases their foliage would be in more sun when the foliage is active and their bloom in shade due to their growth cycle. I grow most of mine in some shade. Some Lycoris tolerate a LOT of sun, but it is climate dependant. Remember foliage is ONLY present in times of the year when sun is at 'low power' fall, early spring or winter. Bulbs DO NOT want summer baking, but some can tolerate it to some degree. and incidentally. Every species I have seen growing wild in China has been in a very mild climate. The bulbs were essentially at the surface in very damp sites. Year round wet sites. Even in cold climate the bulbs grow very shallowly. They benefit from year round watering. Sterile/Fertile the two most common Lycoris L. squamigera and L. radiata are represented in cultivation by sterile triploid forms. They (rarely) never produce viable seeds . These are very vigorous and tolerate a wide variety of climates. Here in the midwest masses of L. squamigera are common. In milder climates L. radiata (ssp radiata) are even more common and often considered agricultural weeds. They clog rice terraces in places and I have seen heaps of small bulbs tossed aside in weeding. Other species are very fertile and produce voluminous seed- L. longituba, L. chinensis., L. sprengeri. Seeds are large, rounded like small peas. Seeds germinate well, but are slow to reach blooming size. They are also very interfertile and form hybrid swarms from yellow to white, orange pink and peach shades. It makes ID very confusing. I have self sown seedlings in the garden from various species. Price I never understand this, but they all seem to be coming more and more specialty bulbs. They do have an odd life cycle which means the best time to divide, move, replant is from June to August with little root drying in the process. Bulbs submitted to Dutch regimes of summer digging, drying and holding until Oct sales are severely stressed and often are extremely slow to recover and resume bloom. Although the genus contains at least 25 species and numerous ssp and countless hybrids, few are common in commerce. Misidentification is extremely common. The best deal is to buy them direct from a specialty grower who knows how to handle them or potted for minimal disturbance. US versus UK Most Chinese Lycoris (most Lycoris) come from the continental climates of E and Central China. They do best in continental climates of E and Central US. The UK has a far more moderate climate without either summer or winter extremes. I'd think some of the Japanese species would do well there. Some species are quite hardy easily growing unprotected in parts of Zone 4 in the US. Critique L. squamigera is a near perfect garden subject for the midwest (at least). Totally hardy in Zone 5, with essentially no pests or diseases and blooms heavily in a time when few other plants are in flower. With a collection of various species and hybrids, bloom season can extend for 6 or more weeks. If it has any faults it is the voluminous foliage in spring, but that soon disappears and can be over planted with a variety of other summer growing plants. Drop me a private email and I'll send you a few pix of recently blooming species and hybrids. jwaddick@kc.rr.com. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 28 11:44:30 2006 Message-Id: <48B37CE0.272C626E@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Codonopsis sp. - need an identification Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 15:44:30 -0000 MarK This looks like Codonopsis convolvulacea Cheers, John E. Bryan Antennaria@aol.com wrote: > > Hello, > > Spontaneously appearing in my garden, twining up through a rhododendron, is a > Codonopsis species. I don't have any Codonopsis in the garden, so its > appearance is somewhat of a mystery. Possibly I tossed out some old seed, or dumped > some soil from ungerminated seed flats. The leaves are glabrous, widely > elliptical, and arranged in 4-part whorls. The large, waxy, egg-like buds started > opening just last week, near the end of August 2006. The flowers are milky > green-white on the outside, and dull purplish inside (with a faint bluish > sheen)... solid purplish on the upper half, white heavily spotted purple in the > lower half. > > Two photos taken in the rain today (8/27/2006): > http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/im_codonopsis.htm > > Anyone know what species it might be? > > I tried to make an identification online using a Google search, but find > there are many, many species, it's rather confusing, and I haven't been able to > pinpoint an ID. > > PS. This message also sent to Alpine-L. Since there is a wiki page for > Codonopsis, I thought I'd post this to PBS as well. > > Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States > antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 > ============================================== > >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << > alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western > american alpines, iris, plants of all types! > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From tony@plantdelights.com Mon Aug 28 12:27:34 2006 Message-Id: <44F31979.5020903@plantdelights.com> From: Tony Avent Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 12:27:37 -0400 Jim: So, which species have you found that don't like summer baking? Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent James Waddick wrote: > Dear All; > A number of topics have been brought up here that I think I > can address at least in part. > > Sun or Shade - I have seen a few species in bloom in the > wild in a few locations and many in bloom in cultivation. > Most species are found only in shade, but your definition of > shade 'depends' . They are common in woodland edges where they may > get a brief exposure to full sun, others are in open deciduous > woodlands. In both cases their foliage would be in more sun when the > foliage is active and their bloom in shade due to their growth cycle. > I grow most of mine in some shade. > Some Lycoris tolerate a LOT of sun, but it is climate > dependant. Remember foliage is ONLY present in times of the year when > sun is at 'low power' fall, early spring or winter. > > Bulbs DO NOT want summer baking, but some can tolerate it to > some degree. > > and incidentally. Every species I have seen growing wild in China has > been in a very mild climate. The bulbs were essentially at the > surface in very damp sites. Year round wet sites. Even in cold > climate the bulbs grow very shallowly. They benefit from year round > watering. > > > Sterile/Fertile the two most common Lycoris L. squamigera and > L. radiata are represented in cultivation by sterile triploid forms. > They (rarely) never produce viable seeds . These are very vigorous > and tolerate a wide variety of climates. > Here in the midwest masses of L. squamigera are common. In milder > climates L. radiata (ssp radiata) are even more common and often > considered agricultural weeds. They clog rice terraces in places and > I have seen heaps of small bulbs tossed aside in weeding. > > Other species are very fertile and produce voluminous seed- > L. longituba, L. chinensis., L. sprengeri. Seeds are large, rounded > like small peas. Seeds germinate well, but are slow to reach blooming > size. They are also very interfertile and form hybrid swarms from > yellow to white, orange pink and peach shades. It makes ID very > confusing. I have self sown seedlings in the garden from various > species. > > Price I never understand this, but they all seem to be > coming more and more specialty bulbs. They do have an odd life cycle > which means the best time to divide, move, replant is from June to > August with little root drying in the process. Bulbs submitted to > Dutch regimes of summer digging, drying and holding until Oct sales > are severely stressed and often are extremely slow to recover and > resume bloom. Although the genus contains at least 25 species and > numerous ssp and countless hybrids, few are common in commerce. > Misidentification is extremely common. The best deal is to buy them > direct from a specialty grower who knows how to handle them or potted > for minimal disturbance. > > US versus UK Most Chinese Lycoris (most Lycoris) come from > the continental climates of E and Central China. They do best in > continental climates of E and Central US. The UK has a far more > moderate climate without either summer or winter extremes. I'd think > some of the Japanese species would do well there. > Some species are quite hardy easily growing unprotected in > parts of Zone 4 in the US. > > Critique L. squamigera is a near perfect > garden subject for the midwest (at least). Totally hardy in Zone 5, > with essentially no pests or diseases and blooms heavily in a time > when few other plants are in flower. With a collection of various > species and hybrids, bloom season can extend for 6 or more weeks. If > it has any faults it is the voluminous foliage in spring, but that > soon disappears and can be over planted with a variety of other > summer growing plants. > > Drop me a private email and I'll send you a few pix of > recently blooming species and hybrids. jwaddick@kc.rr.com. > > Best Jim W. > > From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Mon Aug 28 12:49:17 2006 Message-Id: <002101c6cac1$e6974510$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 12:49:16 -0400 Jim Waddick raises some good points in his discussion of Lycoris in the wild. In particular, I'm intrigued by "The bulbs were essentially at the surface in very damp sites. Year round wet sites. Even in cold climate the bulbs grow very shallowly. They benefit from year round watering." Everyone who has grown Lycoris squamigera knows that it can be unpredictable about blooming. Many of us have often wondered why. Anyone who has much experience with garden peonies knows that they require shallow planting - the growth buds should be within an inch or two of the surface. Failure to ensure that means lusty plants with no flowers. Now I wonder if the same might be true of Lycoris squamigera. Could shallow planting be one key to abundant flowering in climates like this one where the plants otherwise seem very much at home? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I'm now considering giving my Lycoris a lift. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 28 14:25:40 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 12:03:36 -0500 >Jim: > >So, which species have you found that don't like summer baking? Dear Tony and all; It's always definitions isn't it? I consider summer baking something akin to bulbs that can take (require) hot and dry periods for extended periods of time. Then there is the difference between "require" and "tolerate". As I have indicated before when we have a baking summer Lycoris bloom is delayed. When we have our usual if unpredictable and occasional summer rain, they will bloom in unison and 'on time'. So I'd say NONE of them really 'like' a summer baking and all prefer more even, year-round moisture. If you consider these odd woodlanders and more like Hosta or Epimedium, they can all take some drought, but they all do better with regular moisture. I really don't put Lycoris and baking in the same sentence. Even though they can grow is climates with warm summers during summers, bulbs are in the peak amount of shade and do not experience the same drying out that they might in sunny sites. Summer baking for Junos and Oncocyclus Iris. best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From irisman@ameritech.net Mon Aug 28 14:38:52 2006 Message-Id: <003201c6cad0$f1357aa0$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: Fw: Lycoris squamigera Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 13:36:56 -0500 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Adam Fikso" To: Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 11:14 AM Subject: Lycoris squamigera > This hybrid is a sterile triploid (info from Jim Waddick) checked and > confirmed via other sources. I've been trying to set seed on it now for 5 > years using a number of finagles, e.g,various dilutions of 2-4D dissolved > and placed on the juncture of the pedicels below the ovaries. I get more > swollen ovaries that persist for a while and seem to have rudimentary > embryos in them, but , so far, nothing. . The large groups are indeed from > multiplication of offsets, often 20-50 years old in the gardens of older > houses way up into zones 3 and 4. > > Large bulbs can get to be about 5" in diameter, and they are often quite > crowded in the older plantings. Indeed, give them full sun,or as much as > you can-- and clay soil and winter wet or freezing is no problem > whatsoever. > > Adam in Glenview, Z 5a From tony@plantdelights.com Mon Aug 28 14:45:53 2006 Message-Id: <44F339E6.7010607@plantdelights.com> From: Tony Avent Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 14:45:58 -0400 Jim: Not being much of a chef, and one who is never allowed near the oven, I should have distinguished between dry baking and evenly moist baking. We have our best luck cooking lycoris with evenly moist baking. Our trials have also shown that dry soil reduces flowering, therefore we irrigate regularly in our sunny areas. Since the foliage only comes up in fall and is mostly gone by summer, plantings in our full sun rock garden have produced the most vigorous and floriferous plants for us. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Mon Aug 28 16:22:46 2006 Message-Id: <002501c6cadf$b9e15d30$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Fw: Lycoris squamigera Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 16:22:46 -0400 Adam Fikso wrote: " This hybrid is a sterile triploid ... I've been trying to set seed on it now for 5 years using a number of finagles..." Adam, put away that notion of sterile triploids. Triploids are not necessarily or even usually sterile. If you want seed on triploids, use tetraploid pollen. This is an old breeder's trick, and has worked in various genera. I'm not aware of any tetraploid Lycoris: if such a thing exists, it may well provide a way of bringing Lycoris squamigera into the fold. It would make a good project for some grad student in horticulture to induce tetraploidy in some Lycoris and test this hypothesis. Incidentally, as far as I'm concerned, Lycoris squamigera is not a species, it's an old clone, presumably of hybrid origin. It does not deserve a botanical name any more than, for instance, daffodil 'King Alfred'. On the other hand, if the parentage of Lycoris squamigera is ever settled, then the name Lycoris squamigera would be available for all hybrids of similar origin. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where for years, before I caught on, Lycoris squamigera fooled me with its false pregnancies. From profloran@adelphia.net Mon Aug 28 23:12:58 2006 Message-Id: <42CE2AD2-370C-11DB-A625-00039304F2EA@adelphia.net> From: Dan Tyson Subject: Rainlilies Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 20:12:53 -0700 Joe, I really enjoyed your post on rainlilies. And I went to your link on Fadjar--that was STAGGERING! Do you ever share any of your offsets? We grow a very few Zephyranthes here in Socal--I'm sure that more of them would do well here. Perhaps with some supplemental irrigation. Thanks, Dan From Antennaria@aol.com Mon Aug 28 23:31:41 2006 Message-Id: From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Codonopsis sp. - need an identification Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 23:31:38 EDT Thanks John, I was led to a great Codonopsis website via Alpine-L (http://www.codonopsis.co.uk/), and the consensus is that it most closely matches C. lanceolata or C. ussuriensis. I later found a link to more photos of C. lanceolata at: http://www.robsplants.com/plants/CodonLance.php that closely resemble my plant. The foliage of Codonopsis convolvulacea as pictured on the http://www.codonopsis.co.uk/ site look wrong for my plant. It seems like many plants in cultivation are misidentified. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From samarak@gizmoworks.com Mon Aug 28 23:59:37 2006 Message-Id: From: Steve Marak Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 22:58:59 -0500 (CDT) On Mon, 28 Aug 2006, Tony Avent wrote: > Not being much of a chef, and one who is never allowed near the oven, I > should have distinguished between dry baking and evenly moist baking. > We have our best luck cooking lycoris with evenly moist baking. Our > trials have also shown that dry soil reduces flowering, therefore we > irrigate regularly in our sunny areas .... Lycoris bloom has been very interesting this year here in NW Arkansas, about 200 miles south of Jim W. All of my lycoris came from Jim, except L. squamigera and the fertile form of L. radiata which were acquired locally, and a few bulbs of L. sanguinea. I got bulbs from Jim over as many years as possible and put them where I had space at the time, so they've wound up scattered around in various beds. During the dry summer period, some of these beds get no supplemental water, some regular and plenty, and a few an occasional drink during the very driest periods. All but one are full sun. I've never really been able to correlate water with time of flowering, though I've had the problem of very short stalks or poor bloom in dryer beds. Some years, those which got no extra water flowered at exactly the same time, and little if any less, than those with regular irrigation. Typically, L. radiata always flowered last, after everything else was done and setting seed. This year was very different. We have been unusually dry, well below "normal" rainfall for at least 18 months now. Beds with regular extra water had lycoris in flower several weeks ago, almost to the day Jim W. reported his first blooms. Beds with no extra water had no flowers at all. About 10 days ago, we began to get rain, and today they're flowering everywhere. L. radiata is in full bloom alongside chinensis, squamigera, sprengeri, etc., and there are more stalks coming up from groups I had thought done for the year. And they all look great. My unscientific impression is that the most prolific flowering is in a bed which is in full sun and gets regular extra water .... Steve -- Steve Marak -- samarak@gizmoworks.com From dells@voicenet.com Tue Aug 29 09:22:45 2006 Message-Id: <20060829132245.156EC4C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX 125 CLOSED Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 09:22:31 -0400 Packages should go out later in the week. Enjoy, Dell Dell Sherk, Director, PBS BX From YOURCH@nortel.com Tue Aug 29 11:55:47 2006 Message-Id: <45409CEDA4EFB7428420872E126CFB010DBB7636@zrtphxm2.corp.nortel.com> From: "James Yourch" Subject: New Curcuma and Crinum Photos Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 11:55:38 -0400 Hi all, I recently added some new photos of Crinum and Curcuma to the wiki. Enjoy, Jay Curcuma 'Purple Prince' is low-growing, like a blue Hosta, with purple tipped flowers. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Curcuma#PurplePrince Curcuma 'Rainbow' is upright, like a Canna, with hot pink flowers. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Curcuma#Rainbow Curcuma 'Ribbon' is also upright with striped leaves and purple flowers. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Curcuma#Ribbon Crinum 'Gonzalez' has very large striped flowers. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#digweedii Crinum 'H.J. Elwes' is a low-growing hybrid with starry pink flowers. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybrids#HJElwes From YOURCH@nortel.com Tue Aug 29 12:49:15 2006 Message-Id: <45409CEDA4EFB7428420872E126CFB010DBB776C@zrtphxm2.corp.nortel.com> From: "James Yourch" Subject: Rainlilies Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 12:48:46 -0400 Hi Joe, I grow many rainlilies that enjoy moist soils, especially Zephyranthes candida (it loves wet feet), along with its hybrids 'Grandjax', 'Ajax', and 'Aquarius'. Z. labuffarosa and its selections also thrive in moist, even mucky, soils, as does Z. grandiflora, Z. 'El Cielo', Z. 'Cookie Cutter Moon' and the southeast US native, Z. atamasco. I have had no problems with winter dampness with any of these either. I grow all of my rainlilies in the ground, but if you want to grow them in containers, you might try growing some of the above with saucers under the containers and see if they perform any differently for you. Regards, Jay Joe Shaw wrote: However, they also seem to thrive on regular irrigation (such as next to a well watered lawn) as long as they have soil that drains adequately. I have yet to try/find/hear-about a rainlily that enjoys wet feet. From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 29 12:55:44 2006 Message-Id: <24FAC029.969C1F79@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Codonopsis Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 16:55:44 -0000 Dear Mark: Thanks for your message, you might be correct but Codonopsis lanceolata according to the RHS is spotted and striped violet within and flowers in the autumn. While C. convolvulacea, hardy to zone 5, is azure to violet blue without stripes. How high is your plant? Thanks for the leads to the websites. Cheers John From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue Aug 29 14:44:00 2006 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Rainlilies Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 11:43:58 -0700 On Aug 28, 2006, at 8:12 PM, Dan Tyson wrote: > Joe, I really enjoyed your post on rainlilies. > And I went to your link on Fadjar--that was STAGGERING! It is unbelievable what Fadjar has been able to accomplish with only a small handful of species to begin with. It appears that only Tony Avent of Plant Delights nursery has been able to introduce some of Fadjar's cultivars here in the U.S. (Tony just introduced 5 more in his Fall catalog--I've already placed my order.) > Do you ever share any of your offsets? > We grow a very few Zephyranthes here in Socal--I'm sure that more of > them would do well here. I have about 30 species and varieties here in So Cal. Almost all of them do well or very well and some flower quite well. Mine are all in pots, which several people such as Alberto Castillo, will tell you isn't the best way to grow them unless you grow them in very large pots (5 gal. or larger)--much larger that their size might indicate. So I'm sure they would do even better if planted in the ground. The best place here would be in regular garden beds where they would get summer irrigation. A number of them stay green all winter, too. And several of them re-seed like crazy showing up in many other pots. > Perhaps with some supplemental irrigation. > > Thanks, > Dan > > Tony Avent and Yucca Do carry a large variety of them. I'd highly recommend them. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a From arnold@nj.rr.com Tue Aug 29 17:04:04 2006 Message-Id: <44F4AADD.30203@nj.rr.com> From: arnold trachtenberg Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 17:00:13 -0400 If I recall correctly I seem to remember a dialogue about where Lycoris are found growing in different parts of Asia. They are found at the ditches bordering cultivated fields which brings to mind wet and artificially irrigated environments. Comments Jim W.? Arnold From jshaw@opuntiads.com Tue Aug 29 23:11:32 2006 Message-Id: <003001c6cbe1$fed3a080$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: "sort of" companion plants Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 22:11:29 -0500 Hi Gang I grow a lot of plants in big containers including many Crinum. Often plants will be in 10- or 15-gallon nursery containers. One problem with containers is that the soil can become too warm. I try to shade the soil and sides of the containers in various ways and one way is to use groundcover plants in the container. I use various groundcovers but like those that don't have deep roots (not too competitive with the bulbs) and which can withstand heat and some drought; it is a bonus is they trail over the side of the container. I've tried some sedges collected from local pastures and woodlands and one of my favorites is Carex flaccosperma (blue wood sedge). I tried this plant as a groundcover in the garden but it is not very competitive with Johnson grass or other aggessive weeds, but it has done really well in large pots. C. flaccosperma is not fast growing, and it is a slow spreader--but it will spread out in a clump over 2-3 years. It takes full sun, or half-day sun, or bright shade. In the best situations the leaves get long and flow over the side of a container, providing shade for the side as well. In the hottest and sunniest situations C. flaccosperma is a shorter, more squat plant, but it does fine shading the soil from overhead sun. Other plants that work well are zone 9-tolerant creeping sedums and some low growing kitchen herbs. In some pots I've experimented with Dyckia species or hybrids (terrestrial brimeliads). I think they are Dyckia; they are small leaved and green (not the beautiful Dyckia types). They seem to be working but it is too early to tell. Their benefit is that they are carefree, impervious to heat and drought, and don't seem to compete with bulbs. However, they need to be in pots with very good drainage and weeding around dyckias can be vexing. Cordially, Joe LINK: C. flaccosperma Information http://tinyurl.com/zalbf From toadlily@olywa.net Wed Aug 30 03:49:49 2006 Message-Id: <44F54321.7060103@olywa.net> From: Laura & Dave Subject: Codonopsis pictures added! Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 00:49:53 -0700 Speaking of Codonopsis, I've just added several pictures of three species. I hope Mark adds his lovely pictures as well, now that we know that his mystery plant is C. lanceolata! http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Codonopsis Dave Brastow From toadlily@olywa.net Wed Aug 30 04:01:40 2006 Message-Id: <44F545E8.9020404@olywa.net> From: Laura & Dave Subject: The RIGHT address for the Codonopsis pictures! Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 01:01:44 -0700 OOPS!!! The correct address is: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Codonopsis Sorry, it's late! Dave From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Aug 30 09:22:30 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris in sun or shade Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 08:21:23 -0500 >They are found at the ditches bordering cultivated fields which brings >to mind wet and artificially irrigated environments. Dear Arnold; L. radiata is said to be a common weed around the raised edges of rice paddies/ terraces. They get mixed into the soils between the water line and the pathways on the tops of the dividers between paddies. I suppose in these locations they get an occasional propagation( by chopping with hoes?), and sit with roots in water and bulbs above. When paddies are dried between harvests, the bulbs tolerate some drying. I have heard they do the same thing along some canals and levees in the SE US esp Louisiana and Florida. Any PBS members have experience here? Joe Shaw? L radiata is the only one I have heard tat does this. Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From lwallpe@juno.com Wed Aug 30 13:12:49 2006 Message-Id: <20060830.101129.11827.816898@webmail44.lax.untd.com> From: "lwallpe@juno.com" Subject: Lycoris Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 17:10:51 GMT Jim W - I had a clump of L. chienensis that was increasing nicely but this year has failed to bloom and as I now recall spring, there was less foliage than there should have been. I hate that I've lost it, I enjoyed those golden blooms greatly! At one point in this thread, you wrote that Lycoris suffered from few pests or diseases. Would you please expand a bit on that? Thanks! Linda W. ________________________________________________________________________ Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month! Unlimited Internet Access with 1GB of Email Storage. Visit http://www.juno.com/value to sign up today! From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Aug 30 14:23:49 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 12:22:37 -0500 Hi Linda; Where do you live? I said 'few' pests and only because I might have defend 'NONE", but nothing really bothers them once they have settled in and start to bloom. The only time I have seen Lycoris decrease is when they are repeatedly cut back too early. Here they are such common plants (l. squamigera) that some folks don't realize (or care?) the foliage and flowering stems even go together. The zero-scapers, just mow the foliage after its been there too long and hasn't bloomed. Then it won't bloom and the cycle repeats. Actually I don't know anything that bothers them here, but if you live where there are narcissus flies, they might get to them. I suppose they could get a virus, but I never heard of any, etc. They do not do well in all parts of the country so that's why I asked. L. chinensis is a spring foliage plant and it doesn't do so well in the deep south for example. On the other hand this is a good time to dig, divide and transplant. Just do not disturb or break (too many) roots and plant them in a moist shady site. Anything specific to add? Best Jim >Jim W - > >I had a clump of L. chienensis that was increasing nicely but this >year has failed to bloom and as I now recall spring, there was less >foliage than there should have been. I hate that I've lost it, I >enjoyed those golden blooms greatly! > >At one point in this thread, you wrote that Lycoris suffered from few >pests or diseases. Would you please expand a bit on that? > >Thanks! >Linda W. > -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Wed Aug 30 13:28:39 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6cc59$b65ece60$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lycoris Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 13:28:29 -0400 Linda, you addressed your question to Jim W, but I'll jump in here with an observation of my own. Mature, large-bulbed Lycoris have had few problems in my garden. Seedlings and species with small bulbs (such as Lycoris sanguinea) are another story. In my experience, these can be very vulnerable to bulb fly larvae. Why not dig your bulbs and check for damage? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the somewhat soapy, peony-like scent of Passiflora incarnata and the sour scent of boxwood fill the house daily. These scents are a bit like cilantro: you have to get used to them; but once you do, it's hard to imagine how you got by without them. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Wed Aug 30 19:07:46 2006 Message-Id: <004901c6cc89$1c2c02b0$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: rainlilies and wetness Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 18:07:45 -0500 but if you want to grow them in containers, you might try growing some of the above with saucers under the containers and see if they perform any differently for you. +++++++++++++++++++++ Hi Gang, A very good idea. Maybe I'll get organized next year and try them in saucers. Thanks for the tip. Joe From jshaw@opuntiads.com Wed Aug 30 19:35:51 2006 Message-Id: <004b01c6cc8d$086f8860$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: rainlilies, pots, grasshoppers Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 18:35:32 -0500 Mine are all in pots, which several people such as Alberto Castillo, will tell you isn't the best way to grow them unless you grow them in very large pots (5 gal. or larger) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Hi Gang, More good advice about growing rainlilies. I guess I'll have to move my plants up to larger containers. Maybe this winter will provide the time. I do like the rainlilies, and I now I think I've been mistreating them. They don't have many problems, even with my small pots and stingy watering schedule. However, they are devoured by the Eastern Lubber Grasshopper, which are truly beautiful but alien-looking insects. The instars (juveniles are black and red, or black and yellow). The adults are a psychadelic mix of yellow, red, orange, black, tan, and sometimes a hint of green. Both adults and juveniles devour amaryllids. Rainlilies are mowed to the ground unless I keep control of the grasshoppers. The insects actually remove all foliage and flower buds, and rainliles seem as if they are "gone." Once I put out insecticide the rainliles come back. Eastern Lubber Grasshoppers like Crinum, Hippeastrum, Hymenocallis, and all sorts of related plants. I think they survive from year-to-year in my yard because I won't put insecticides in the low areas of my yard, the places where runoff can enter nearby ponds. LINK: Photo, Close-up of Adult and Juvenile http://www.opuntiads.com/pests/lubber1.jpg LINK: Photo, Feeding Frenzy, Juveniles Devouring Hymenocallis near the Trinkity River in Texas http://www.opuntiads.com/pests/lubber2.jpg They will eat leaves, flowers, seed pods, seeds, and perhaps slow-moving people. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX The weather has cooled a bit and maybe the fall-blooming bulbs will begin their shows. A few oxblood lilies have come up but the heat fried the blooms last week. From ixia@dcsi.net.au Wed Aug 30 19:50:14 2006 Message-Id: <001b01c6cc8f$099cf9f0$0201a8c0@Ixia> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: rainlilies, pots, grasshoppers Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 09:50:08 +1000 Hi Joe, this is not quite true. I grow mine in small pots and they do well here. I keep them wet all winter and every year they multiply and flower well. We get fairly wet winters although mild - not many frosts. regards, Bill Richardson, Ixia King Winter -2c. to 15C.. at present West Gippsland, Victoria, Australia ixia@dcsi.net.au Ixia Website: www.angelfire.com/ri/ixia "Almost any garden, if you see it at just the right moment, can be confused with Paradise" Henry Mitchell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] rainlilies, pots, grasshoppers > Mine are all in pots, which several people such as Alberto Castillo, will > tell you isn't the best way to grow them unless you grow them in very large > pots (5 gal. or larger) > > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From jshaw@opuntiads.com Wed Aug 30 20:29:04 2006 Message-Id: <018901c6cc94$77e43b30$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Amaryllid Pollen Trading Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 19:29:03 -0500 Hi Gang, The Amaryllid Pollen Trading Email List is now in operation. Hopefully, it will be a mostly sleepy list to alert folks when pollen is available. Or, on the flip side, it will be used to alter folks when someone is looking for pollen of a specific type. The list is not limited to Crinum although that was the original concept. Some have written asking for an expanded list to include rainlilies, Lycoris, Hymenocallis, and some other genera and I think that will work out OK. I suspect that Hippeastrum (while technically fitting into the concept) will not be a topic because there are (many) more, well established Hippeastrum lists. Following recommendations from PBS folks who have "lots of work" to do with lists, and suggestions from initial pollen-trading members, I have implemented membership moderation (I think I got the controls set correctly). Also, the URL is not listed in the Yahoo Groups; the goal is not to limit membership so much as to discourage instantaneous membership applications. Anyone who applies, and who follows general Netiquete, is welcome. Additionally, while the messages could be archived, I have voided that possibility; the main reason is to limit spamming robots. There is no goal of secrecy, per se, and if members vote wish (majority vote) to have the messages archived (with a password) I think that can be arranged. One other note: I don't think of the pollen-trading list as a bulb list. Members know (if they read the guidelines) that most questions can be directed to the PBS. The PBS URL is provided up-front and if questions are beyond immediate pollen trading, correpondents will be referred to the PBS. My hope is that folks in equatorial regions, or in the southern hemisphere, or in the northern hemisphere, will be able to share pollen. We have out-of-sync seasons and can benefit by sharing pollen during the year and storing it correctly for later use. With time, perhaps I can prepare an article about pollen mailing, and pollen storage--but the PBS archives are rich with information about those topics. If you want to join please email me or visit the URL: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/crinumpollen/ Cordially, Joe jshaw@opuntids.com From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Wed Aug 30 20:46:31 2006 Message-Id: <44F63151.5000008@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: rainlilies, pots, grasshoppers Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 19:46:09 -0500 Grasshoppers are my biggest pest problem in the nursery, including potted bulbs and Lycoris flower stalks in the beds. I've seen the black ones in east Texas when I was a boy, but these are the regular ol' light brown/yellow ones. I've just ordered a bunch of semaspore to see if I can get some control. I expect it to be difficult, though, since I can't really contain the "site". It did help me one year in my winter house, though, so I am hopeful. A scientist like myself is intrigued by rain lilies in pots, because you can experiment with forcing bloom, not relying on nature to give you the occasional bloom. It has been several years since I took a scientific approach. I think I let the listserv for IBS know about it at the time, but I can't find the info. If I recall correctly, a good rule of thumb was to water regularly for 6-8 (4-6?) weeks during the growing season, then completely withhold water for 3-4? weeks. The next time I started watering again, I got a bunch of blooms in a day or two. These were greenhouse conditions, so nature could not interrupt the "scientific" process. ;) The described method, or something akin to it would give me more bloom periods in the season than just keeping them watered regularly. It seems that regular watering encourages bulb division (increase), but more flowering can mean more seed (increase). So, if you want to get a bunch more bulbs of the exact same thing, bring on the water hose, but if you want to play *od and make babies of different colors and shapes, practice some "science" with your rain lilies. Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 10846 Hodge Ln Gravette, AR 72736 479-366-4968 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ Joe Shaw wrote: > They don't have many problems, even with my small pots and stingy watering > schedule. However, they are devoured by the Eastern Lubber Grasshopper, > which are truly beautiful but alien-looking insects. From profloran@adelphia.net Wed Aug 30 20:50:19 2006 Message-Id: From: Dan Tyson Subject: Rainlilies Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 17:50:17 -0700 Tony Avent and Yucca Do carry a large variety of them. I'd highly recommend them. Thanks, Lee. I will definitely contact them. Dan From eez55@earthlink.net Wed Aug 30 22:59:00 2006 Message-Id: <410-220068431314160@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: Spanish iris Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 23:01:04 -0400 First, apologies for the delay in this response. I've been busy with work (and other things, but mostly work) and didn't have time for more than a one line response to any e mail. Jim McKenney asked "Where in Pennsylvania were you growing those English irises?". (I've included part of Jim's message below.) A little bit of background: On 7/20/06, as part of a message on bulbous iris, Jim wrote, "No one, to my knowledge, has successfully grown English irises here in the middle Atlantic states." Part of my response (7/22/06) was "Is Pennsylvania a mid-Atlantic state?" (According to wikipedia, it is -- along with New York, New Jersey, Maryland, and Delaware. Virginia and West Virginia are sometimes included.) My English irises grew (and probably still grow) in central Pennsylvania, not too far from State College and Penn State University. This is the Ridge and Valley region. (To be specific, they grew in the last valley before the Allegheny Plateau, which dominates the western part of the state and gives Pennsylvania its coal mining reputation.) Temperatures here are cooler than those of the mid-Atlantic region in the southeast corner of the state. Winters are zone 5 or 6, and summer temperatures do get over 90 F, but only for a few days in August. The area also has a definite spring, with generally cool temperatures into mid June. I think this was a big factor in the iris' performance. My yard was fairly moist (Lobelia siphilitica was almost a weed...), which may have helped. Still, I'm surprised at how well the irises performed. Incidentally, the irises I grew were the common blue variety. I did plant some other varieties later, and they did nearly as well. Gene Eugene Zielinski Augusta, Georgia USA > [Original Message] > From: Jim McKenney > Date: 7/23/06 12:19:08 PM > Subject: RE: [pbs] Spanish iris > > Eugene Zielenski, in commenting on the culture of English irises, asked " Is > Pennsylvania a mid-Atlantic state? " > > In response, I would say depending on the context, maybe. > > It seems that English irises have been grown successfully in New York State > and northward (I'm basing that partially on the account in Molly Price's The > Iris Book). > > So to go back to Eugene's question, I would say that western Pennsylvania is > not for purposes of this discussion a middle Atlantic state. I had in mind > the piedmont and coastal plain areas, the areas of the major, old cities in > this area. For horticultural purposes, the conditions in the physiographic > provinces west of the piedmont are significantly different. The zones of > similar conditions in this part of the country run roughly southwest to > northeast. As you move westward, especially as you cross physiographic > provinces, conditions change rapidly. > > So my question for Eugene is "Where in Pennsylvania were you growing those > English irises?" > > And I'll bet it was not on the coastal plain or piedmont. If it was, please > tell us more. > > > From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Thu Aug 31 10:12:13 2006 Message-Id: <20060831141212.64070.qmail@web33901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: rainlilies, pots, grasshoppers Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 07:12:12 -0700 (PDT) I got my amaryllids in extra greenhouse space and it is under repair so all kinds of 6+ leggers venture inside and sample my amaryllids (usually few insects will eat amaryllids). I just killed a giant yellowish one this morning which looked like it had some shedded exoskeleton on it. James Frelichowski College station, TX Joe Shaw wrote: Mine are all in pots, which several people such as Alberto Castillo, will tell you isn't the best way to grow them unless you grow them in very large pots (5 gal. or larger) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Hi Gang, More good advice about growing rainlilies. I guess I'll have to move my plants up to larger containers. Maybe this winter will provide the time. I do like the rainlilies, and I now I think I've been mistreating them. They don't have many problems, even with my small pots and stingy watering schedule. However, they are devoured by the Eastern Lubber Grasshopper, which are truly beautiful but alien-looking insects. The instars (juveniles are black and red, or black and yellow). The adults are a psychadelic mix of yellow, red, orange, black, tan, and sometimes a hint of green. Both adults and juveniles devour amaryllids. Rainlilies are mowed to the ground unless I keep control of the grasshoppers. The insects actually remove all foliage and flower buds, and rainliles seem as if they are "gone." Once I put out insecticide the rainliles come back. Eastern Lubber Grasshoppers like Crinum, Hippeastrum, Hymenocallis, and all sorts of related plants. I think they survive from year-to-year in my yard because I won't put insecticides in the low areas of my yard, the places where runoff can enter nearby ponds. LINK: Photo, Close-up of Adult and Juvenile http://www.opuntiads.com/pests/lubber1.jpg LINK: Photo, Feeding Frenzy, Juveniles Devouring Hymenocallis near the Trinkity River in Texas http://www.opuntiads.com/pests/lubber2.jpg They will eat leaves, flowers, seed pods, seeds, and perhaps slow-moving people. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX The weather has cooled a bit and maybe the fall-blooming bulbs will begin their shows. A few oxblood lilies have come up but the heat fried the blooms last week. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --------------------------------- Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.