From Antennaria@aol.com Thu Sep 1 12:50:45 2005 Message-Id: <1c8.3015c558.30488b60@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Plant Database software Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:50:40 EDT Paige Woodward (paige@hillkeep.ca) writes: >By coincidence they are having a sale that ends today. >http://www.crescentbloom.com/X/B/Page04.aspx >I didn't know this ahead of time and have no link >whatsoever to anyone involved with this product. That product looks most interesting... I think I'll order a copy at the discount price. A couple things to note, their webpage actually states that the sale is good until September 15th, 2005, with the regular price of $89.95 US is discounted $40 for a sales price of $49.95. They offer free shipping (USA only), and a 30-day money back guarantee. Thanks for bringing this to our attention... looks like a good bargain. I should think that the Alpine-L list might be interested in this as well. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From gdanen@gmail.com Thu Sep 1 12:55:46 2005 Message-Id: From: Gerry Danen Subject: Plant Database software Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 10:55:45 -0600 > Has anyone tried The Compleat Botanica, a set of plant-database software for > Windows apparently made in California? > I stumbled on it just now while googling on RHS color charts. > > http://www.crescentbloom.com/X/C/313.htm Looks pretty extensive... I would not mind a 15-day trial, but I don't see one... -- Gerry http://forums.danen.org/gen/ http://www.danen.org/ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lily_photos/ From SheriAnnRicherson@exoticgardening.com Thu Sep 1 13:22:59 2005 Message-Id: <20050901172259.845A24C008@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Sheri Ann Richerson" Subject: Plant Database software Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:22:58 -0500 I have The Compleat Botanica. I have used it but it is very extensive and I currently do not have it installed. If you are wanting a great way to keep every detail about a plant or seed it is great. I am just not that good of a record keeper. Sheri From GardenPT@aol.com Fri Sep 2 00:19:36 2005 Message-Id: <8C77D8CA7706618-2D4-9472@mblk-r41.sysops.aol.com> From: gardenpt@aol.com Subject: Plant Database software Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 00:19:32 -0400 Hmmm --well; is it necessary to fill in *all* the blanks? How about just using what's pertinent to your interests? Jean in Oregon -----Original Message----- From: Sheri Ann Richerson I have The Compleat Botanica. I have used it but it is very extensive and I currently do not have it installed. If you are wanting a great way to keep every detail about a plant or seed it is great. I am just not that good of a record keeper. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From SheriAnnRicherson@exoticgardening.com Fri Sep 2 00:26:24 2005 Message-Id: <20050902042624.04FBF4C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Sheri Ann Richerson" Subject: Plant Database software Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 23:26:23 -0500 You do not have to fill in all the blanks. You can use what you want to and leave the rest blank. Sheri From msittner@mcn.org Fri Sep 2 10:21:16 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050902065210.0297c850@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Wiki pictures Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 07:13:31 -0700 Dear All, Reading about all the devastation from Hurricane Katrina makes me feel a bit guilty about life going on in areas not hit by this disaster. Still I guess distracting news is not a bad thing. As I am repotting I am trying to take pictures of my bulbs, corms, tubers. One day I'll get them on the wiki. I don't have the time to do this in a way so the results are better. Rodger's recent post on improving digital pictures had some excellent suggestions, but that takes time to set up and I still have a lot of pots I need to pot and things are already growing. Hopefully people will still be able to get some idea. On the AB images list Lyn Edwards recently posted a picture of Scoliopus bigelovii she is growing in Australia and Alberto promptly wrote it is not a geophyte. In the past on this list I noted that the roots of my plants didn't look at all like described (short underground stems with numerous fleshy storage roots). Mine were like string. I unpotted one to take a picture. This year I've watered them all summer so they are "plump". :-) Note the grid the roots are on has 1 cm. squares. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Scoliopus In the past John Bryan asked about the tuber of Canarina canariensis. Bill Dijk sent me seed a number of years ago and I shared it with Diana Chapman who has been much more successful growing it on. On learning I really needed to protect this one from our winter weather while it is growing, I moved mine to the greenhouse where they have been much happier, but still didn't bloom last year. I'm hoping this year they will. I've kept two tubers from the seed I started and the plants looked a bit crowded so I dumped them out of their large pot recently. The tubers were huge. Hopefully this year I'll see those flowers. Here is a picture of one already with new shoots. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Canarina Mary Sue From eob@peak.org Fri Sep 2 11:38:57 2005 Message-Id: From: "Ernie O'Byrne" Subject: geophyte criteria Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 08:38:43 -0700 So, where is the border line; or is it a continuum? Is it because the Scoliopus has simple roots? So Tropaeolum speciosum would be a geophyte because it has, what, rhizomes? So does that mean that everything with rhizomes is subject to discussion on this list? What about grasses having rhizomes? Seems that whatever definition one could pick for "geophyte" there could always be found exceptions that we would like to include or exclude from discussion on the list. Scoliopus looks as if it "should" be a geophyte, if it, indeed, is not, so I am not offended if it is discussed. Don't misunderstand, though. Alberto was probably not offended, either, but just bringing up an interesting point. Ernie O'Byrne Northwest Garden Nursery 86813 Central Road Eugene, ORegon 97402 USA USDA Z. 7B -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 7:14 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Wiki pictures Dear All, On the AB images list Lyn Edwards recently posted a picture of Scoliopus bigelovii she is growing in Australia and Alberto promptly wrote it is not a geophyte. In the past on this list I noted that the roots of my plants didn't look at all like described (short underground stems with numerous fleshy storage roots). Mine were like string. I unpotted one to take a picture. This year I've watered them all summer so they are "plump". :-) Note the grid the roots are on has 1 cm. squares. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Scoliopus Mary Sue From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Fri Sep 2 12:54:47 2005 Message-Id: <639fbd4cc4c15d7797838b1129d34ce5@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: geophyte criteria Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:54:45 -0700 I know this discussion keeps coming up over and over again. I have two major reasons why I don't think it is or should be an issue. One is that as Bernie worded it, there seem to be a number of plants that "look as if [they] 'should' be a geophyte." I think most of us tend to look at all the species in several of the big geophyte families, whether or not the species in question is itself a geophyte, as if they were at minimum "honorary" geophytes. I'm not a botanist and not a full-blooded enough hobbyist to know whether *all* amaryllids, for example, are geophytic. But it seems that merely by saying 'amaryllid' we presume it is a geophyte. (And as additional "proof" for my reason #1: The converse seems to be that many of us on any of the bulb lists seem disinclined to discuss those geophytes that don't fall into one of the major geophytically full plant families, in particular if they are not monocots and if that family isn't known for producing many geophytic species.) The other is that, compared to people on many of the other plant lists, as a group, geophytophiliacs and -maniacs seem to be inordinately knowledgeable, as well as growers of, just about every other kind of plant as well. So if some questionable non-geophytes creep into the discussions or onto the wiki, it seems only a natural by-product of the type of plant grower who loves "bulbs". I'd almost expect it now. Even the fact that we have people like Alberto who _can_ instantly tells us if something is technically a geophyte or not is just a case in point of what I'm saying. ;-) --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 10a On Sep 2, 2005, at 8:38 AM, Ernie O'Byrne wrote: > So, where is the border line; or is it a continuum? Is it because the > Scoliopus has simple roots? So Tropaeolum speciosum would be a geophyte > because it has, what, rhizomes? So does that mean that everything with > rhizomes is subject to discussion on this list? What about grasses > having > rhizomes? Seems that whatever definition one could pick for "geophyte" > there > could always be found exceptions that we would like to include or > exclude > from discussion on the list. > > Scoliopus looks as if it "should" be a geophyte, if it, indeed, is > not, so I > am not offended if it is discussed. Don't misunderstand, though. > Alberto was > probably not offended, either, but just bringing up an interesting > point. > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Sep 2 13:08:47 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: geophyte criteria Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 17:08:46 +0000 "Scoliopus looks as if it "should" be a geophyte, if it, indeed, is not, so I >am not offended if it is discussed. Don't misunderstand, though. Alberto >was >probably not offended, either, but just bringing up an interesting point." Dear Ernie: I usually never are, only that at times I can not follow a thread further on and have to remain silent from lack of time. And, a few days afterwards the thread seems so outdated All the best Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.latam.msn.com/ From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 2 14:42:26 2005 Message-Id: <43189CA7.1F9E8379@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Geophyte Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 11:40:39 -0700 Dear All: In the Dictionary of Botany, a geophyte is a plant with its perenniating buds situated below ground on a rhizome, tuber, bulb or corm. A cryptophyte is a plant with its perenniating buds hidden below ground or in water, (hydrophyte) and are more common in arctic and temperate regions. A helophyte is a marsh plant with its perenniating buds situated in the mud at the bottom of a lake or pond. While these may have perenniating buds hidden, and thus survive, only if the buds are on a rhizome, tuber, bulb or corm are they geophytes. For many years, such plants as Kniphofia and Liatris were raised mainly by perennial nurseries and not as much by bulb growers. Consequently they were often not thought of as Geophytes, even though they are. As to having non geophytes discussed I see a problem, just where would one draw the line?. The point raised by at once associating a member of a large bulb family and presuming a plant is a geophyte simply because it is in that genus is a valid point, but not germane. A geophyte does not become one by association. Cheers, John E. Bryan From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri Sep 2 15:38:49 2005 Message-Id: <4as4s5$2deb1b@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Geophyte Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 15:38:49 -0400 John, I have a problem with the definitions you have cited: they are not mutually exclusive. For instance, isn't the water chestnut of Asian cuisine (Eleocharis dulcis) properly a helophytic, geophytic corm? (And I hope everyone appreciates my punning choice of example). We've been through this before: if the term geophytic is purely descriptive, then there is no problem in describing something as both a geophyte and a helophyte. I don't think much good will come of trying to define these terms rigidly. A bulb which grows above ground cannot by definition be a geophyte - yet most of us would say that it goes against common sense to say that it isn't. For that matter, does a tulip bulb on display in a bin in the garden center cease to be a geophyte until it is replanted into the ground? Furthermore, I see a potential 'escape clause' in any definition which includes the word corm. Although there seems to be general agreement about what a bulb is, the term corm is much trickier to define. It's easy to stretch the definition of a corm to include virtually any dormant underground storage structure derived from stem tissue. Also, it seems to me that there is something more basic to be observed here. Yesterday I ran into a wikipedia entry which included some repartee between the original author of a piece and a subsequent reader who asked "shouldn't someone change this entry to say..." The original author then reminded his critic that everybody was free to give input. This is the wiki world: you don't have to ask permission to have an opinion! I don't worry about these silly categories people dream up. Even if what you have to say is not strictly relevant, it may still be interesting or funny or insightful or in some other way valuable. If things wander too far, Mary Sue can try to herd us cats back into formation. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I've reclassified my Ledebouria socialis into the geophytic ones with bulbs under the soil surface, the lithophytic ones with bulbs fully exposed on the gravel mulch, the ones I'm going to throw into the pond to make them helophytic ones, and finally a potential category for the dead ones which I mistakenly believed to be helophytic. From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 2 16:36:41 2005 Message-Id: <4318B76F.A98EE79E@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Geophyte Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 13:34:55 -0700 Dear Jim: Thanks for your e-mail. If the buds arise from a corm, as in the example you site Eleocharis dulcis, (I think this is incorrect, see below) then for me it is indeed a helophytic geophyte. However I thought this species was a stolon that becomes tuberous, not a corm. But not all marsh plants are, Typha and Alsmia are helophytes but not geophytes, but obviously some plants can be both. A tulip is a geophyte even in a bin or even in a bag, taking a geophyte out of the ground does not alter the fact that it is a geophyte. Nor doe putting one into the ground change it!! I feel your reference to any underground storage tissue derived from a stem as being a corm, is off the mark, as if this was true, would not all herbaceous perennial plants become corms? Such would not survive out of the ground for years, yet corms have this property. No doubt we will be herded back into line, however I do feel such comments are valuable and the delete button is never far away! Cheers, John E. Bryan. Jim McKenney wrote: > > John, I have a problem with the definitions you have cited: they are not > mutually exclusive. For instance, isn't the water chestnut of Asian cuisine > (Eleocharis dulcis) properly a helophytic, geophytic corm? (And I hope > everyone appreciates my punning choice of example). > > We've been through this before: if the term geophytic is purely descriptive, > then there is no problem in describing something as both a geophyte and a > helophyte. > > I don't think much good will come of trying to define these terms rigidly. A > bulb which grows above ground cannot by definition be a geophyte - yet most > of us would say that it goes against common sense to say that it isn't. > > For that matter, does a tulip bulb on display in a bin in the garden center > cease to be a geophyte until it is replanted into the ground? > > Furthermore, I see a potential 'escape clause' in any definition which > includes the word corm. Although there seems to be general agreement about > what a bulb is, the term corm is much trickier to define. It's easy to > stretch the definition of a corm to include virtually any dormant > underground storage structure derived from stem tissue. > > Also, it seems to me that there is something more basic to be observed here. > Yesterday I ran into a wikipedia entry which included some repartee between > the original author of a piece and a subsequent reader who asked "shouldn't > someone change this entry to say..." The original author then reminded his > critic that everybody was free to give input. > > This is the wiki world: you don't have to ask permission to have an opinion! > I don't worry about these silly categories people dream up. Even if what you > have to say is not strictly relevant, it may still be interesting or funny > or insightful or in some other way valuable. > > If things wander too far, Mary Sue can try to herd us cats back into > formation. > > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I've reclassified my > Ledebouria socialis into the geophytic ones with bulbs under the soil > surface, the lithophytic ones with bulbs fully exposed on the gravel mulch, > the ones I'm going to throw into the pond to make them helophytic ones, and > finally a potential category for the dead ones which I mistakenly believed > to be helophytic. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From dkramb@badbear.com Fri Sep 2 16:52:09 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050902165151.01c36a90@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Geophyte Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 16:52:06 -0400 Does Nelumbo lutea classify as a geophyte? Dennis in Cincinnati From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 2 17:18:56 2005 Message-Id: <4318C156.E2DCEECB@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Geophyte Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 14:17:10 -0700 Dear Dennis; Nelumbo lutea is a perennial rhizomatous aquatic herb The rhizome is cylindrical, spongy, wide spreading and swollen. Family Nelumbonaceae. It is more correctly a hydrophyte. Geophytes, strictly speaking are below ground, not water. Cheers, John E. Bryan Dennis Kramb wrote: > > Does Nelumbo lutea classify as a geophyte? > > Dennis in Cincinnati > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From dmahoney@sfbotanicalgarden.org Fri Sep 2 17:22:07 2005 Message-Id: <8D7EFE2984E65547AC99664BE5F41249030A84@sfbg1.education.strybing.org> From: "Don Mahoney" Subject: smoke and seed germination Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 14:21:48 -0700 Several fire ecologists at California State University at Los Angelos have been working extensively on identifying the chemicals in smoke that promote germination. In a research paper in the journal ecology (Ecology 79(7)1998 pp 2330-2336.), they found nitrogen dioxide as the main component of smoke which was involved in germination. Nitrates and nitrites had no effect. The chaparral species (annuals and shrubs) that they tested had complicated requirements. Some germinated with smoke alone, some required smoke plus stratification, and a few required abraison of the seed coat also. They were able to exactly duplicate results of smoke by substituting nitrogen dioxide in their trials. At the botanical garden here we use Kirstenbosch smoke papers for much of the South African seed we germinate and find them important for the germination of ericas, proteas and the grass-like members of the Restinonaceae. Restios for us will not germinate without smoke and protea germination is greatly inhanced. Bulbs on the other hand are a little more forgiving and we have had reasonable germination, especially of our own freshly collected bulb seed, without smoke . We still use smoke on stored bulb seed just in case it really does help. I've never had enough seed to do a true controlled test on bulb seed. Don Mahoney, San Francisco Botanical Garden From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri Sep 2 18:39:20 2005 Message-Id: <4as4s5$2dg1kr@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Geophyte Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 18:39:20 -0400 Dear John and other interested in this topic: With respect to the structure of Eleocharis dulcis, why not compare that of Crocosmia? They are very similar. Everyone who knows the difference between a bulb and a corm will say that Crocosmia grows from a corm. But dig a Crocosmia at this time of year, and what do you see? You see rhizomes, very thin rhizomes, at the tips of which are small corms. How is that different from what is seen in Eleocharis? I've never known anyone to refer to these small developing corms as "rhizome tubers", yet they develop in a manner similar to the development of rhizome tubers. Jim McKenney From dells@voicenet.com Sat Sep 3 05:41:32 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 101 Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 05:40:36 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 101" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: ... Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Mark Mazer: 1. Small bulbs of Nerine bowdenii 2. Bulbs of Cyrtanthus helictus 3. Rhizomes of Trillium discolor 4. Cormlets of Ixia flexuosa 5. Tubers of Arum cyrenaicum 6. Cormlets of Ixia maculata 7. Corms of Sparaxis tricolor 8. Tubers of Arum purpureospathum From Leo Martin: 9. Seed of Lachenalia contaminata From Mark Wilcox: 10. Seed of Rhodophiala chilense Thank you, Mark, Leo, and Mark !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From myke@new.co.za Sat Sep 3 07:27:14 2005 Message-Id: <003801c5b07a$78905230$d770ef9b@mykecbcb148b69> From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" Subject: Pacific BX 101 Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 13:27:22 +0200 If possible, I would be thrilled to get a few of items 1 - 8. Regards Myke Ashley-Cooper de la Rey House 36 van der Stel St Tulbagh 6820 South Africa ----- Original Message ----- From: Dell Sherk To: Antennaria@aol.com ; floralartistry2000@yahoo.com ; numida@aol.com ; pbs@lists.ibiblio.org ; Pat.Colville@JHResearchUSA.com ; Cathy Craig ; mysticgardn@yahoo.com ; masterson4@cox.net Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 11:40 AM Subject: [pbs] Pacific BX 101 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 101" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: ... Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! >From Mark Mazer: 1. Small bulbs of Nerine bowdenii 2. Bulbs of Cyrtanthus helictus 3. Rhizomes of Trillium discolor 4. Cormlets of Ixia flexuosa 5. Tubers of Arum cyrenaicum 6. Cormlets of Ixia maculata 7. Corms of Sparaxis tricolor 8. Tubers of Arum purpureospathum >From Leo Martin: 9. Seed of Lachenalia contaminata >From Mark Wilcox: 10. Seed of Rhodophiala chilense Thank you, Mark, Leo, and Mark !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From myke@new.co.za Sat Sep 3 09:51:34 2005 Message-Id: <008201c5b08e$a303d870$d770ef9b@mykecbcb148b69> From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" Subject: Pacific BX 101 Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 15:51:07 +0200 Whoops, sorry! Meant to send a private email to Dell. ----- Original Message ----- From: Myke Ashley-Cooper To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 1:27 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific BX 101 If possible, I would be thrilled to get a few of items 1 - 8. Regards Myke Ashley-Cooper de la Rey House 36 van der Stel St Tulbagh 6820 South Africa ----- Original Message ----- From: Dell Sherk To: Antennaria@aol.com ; floralartistry2000@yahoo.com ; numida@aol.com ; pbs@lists.ibiblio.org ; Pat.Colville@JHResearchUSA.com ; Cathy Craig ; mysticgardn@yahoo.com ; masterson4@cox.net Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 11:40 AM Subject: [pbs] Pacific BX 101 http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php .ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From dkramb@badbear.com Sat Sep 3 10:02:56 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050903095958.01c3dab8@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Geophyte Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 10:03:00 -0400 At 05:17 PM 9/2/2005, you wrote: >Dear Dennis; > >Nelumbo lutea is a perennial rhizomatous aquatic herb The rhizome is >cylindrical, spongy, wide spreading and swollen. Family Nelumbonaceae. >It is more correctly a hydrophyte. Geophytes, strictly speaking are >below ground, not water. Cheers, John E. Bryan > >Dennis Kramb wrote: > > > > Does Nelumbo lutea classify as a geophyte? > > > > Dennis in Cincinnati Well I got lots of seed ripening out there, and I hate to see them go to waste. I remember how hard seeds were to come by when I wanted to add this wildflower to my garden. Maybe this is my chance to return the favor, and donate some to the PBS-BX? Hmm... Dennis in Cincinnati From dells@voicenet.com Sat Sep 3 11:35:07 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 101 WHOOPS! Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 11:34:22 -0400 Sorry, I missed a small batch of seed of Zephyranthes fosterii seed from Mark Mazer. 11. Seed (few) of Zephyranthes fosterii - for those who missed out when it was offered before. Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Sat Sep 3 12:26:06 2005 Message-Id: <4319CE32.CF3A0EE6@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Geophyte Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 09:24:18 -0700 Dear Jim; There is a difference between a stolon that produces a rhizome, and a corm. Cheers, John E. Bryan Jim McKenney wrote: > > Dear John and other interested in this topic: > > With respect to the structure of Eleocharis dulcis, why not compare that of > Crocosmia? They are very similar. Everyone who knows the difference between > a bulb and a corm will say that Crocosmia grows from a corm. > > But dig a Crocosmia at this time of year, and what do you see? You see > rhizomes, very thin rhizomes, at the tips of which are small corms. > > How is that different from what is seen in Eleocharis? > > I've never known anyone to refer to these small developing corms as "rhizome > tubers", yet they develop in a manner similar to the development of rhizome > tubers. > > Jim McKenney > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From john@johnlonsdale.net Sat Sep 3 13:12:32 2005 Message-Id: <20050903171231.EA59B4C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Geophyte Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 13:12:28 -0400 "There is a difference between a stolon that produces a rhizome, and a corm. Cheers, John E. Bryan" What about Crocus nudiflorus, which produces stolons and also mature corms. When does the stolon become a corm? J. John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Sep 3 13:28:07 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Pacific BX 101 WHOOPS! Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 17:28:06 +0000 >Sorry, I missed a small batch of seed of Zephyranthes fosterii seed from >Mark Mazer. > >11. Seed (few) of Zephyranthes fosterii - for those who missed out when it >was offered before. > >Best wishes, >Dell Hi Dell and Mark: Which color is this Z. fosteri, please? I have seen several ones around but none were the real thing. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From IntarsiaCo@aol.com Sat Sep 3 13:52:48 2005 Message-Id: <1f5.112e05e9.304b3ce9@aol.com> From: IntarsiaCo@aol.com Subject: Pacific BX 101 WHOOPS! Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 13:52:41 EDT In a message dated 9/3/2005 1:28:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com writes: Which color is this Z. fosteri They are pink. Seed was from the NARGS Seed Exchange in 2004. Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. Gaylordsville, Connecticut 06755-0142 USA From msittner@mcn.org Sat Sep 3 14:48:29 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050903112529.023ec810@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Geophyte Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 11:46:26 -0700 Hi all, When I started this list a number of years ago I wrote on our list page: "Although bulbs (defined more broadly to include all geophytes) are the focus, we recognize that people who grow them probably grow other things too and will be talking about them from time to time. " I was trying to be inclusive, not exclusive. And judging from the topics that get a lot of responses, many of them are off topic completely and people want to discuss them. Herding cats is impossible so most of the time I don't even try. (As you have noticed some people continue to include the whole previous message when they respond even when I've written them privately.) Once you become a community of sorts you are going to share information that you think others would want to have. What gives me pride about the pbs list is that responses are friendly and people are respectful of all the levels of expertise that exists in this list. As for what goes on the wiki, we allow some leeway there too for genera like Scoliopus. We include some things that are evergreen and never stop growing and therefore are not really geophytes, some things that have bulbs above the ground, and even my Delphiniums which fit a definition of geophyte that I liked, "something that you can put in an envelope and send when it is dormant." I got outvoted on keeping Jim McKenney's snakes, but we allow some short term visitors to the wiki even though we don't encourage this as it makes more work for administrators. An example of that is our desert page which I'll probably remove next week. One important criteria for making it to the wiki is that someone cares enough about that plant or subject to do the work to get the picture or information there. I didn't mean to get everyone all stirred up again about what is and is not allowed to be discussed or added to the wiki. I just thought some of you might be interested in what Scoliopus bigelovii and Canarina canariensis look like when they are dormant. There has been no response to that at all, not even privately. I am always dumping out a pot and thinking, now what in the world is that, so I welcome pictures on the wiki or our bulbs, rhizomes, tubers, tuberous roots, etc. when the plant is dormant. Seed pods are good too since it seems that this is becoming more important in plant identification. Mary Sue From ConroeJoe@aol.com Sat Sep 3 15:16:45 2005 Message-Id: <6b.4cb83f4b.304b5098@aol.com> From: ConroeJoe@aol.com Subject: Thalia dealbata, native geophyte Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 15:16:40 EDT Hi Gang, I treat a lot of plants that I grow as "bulbs" or "bulb-like things." Yet, I know they are not remotely bulb-like in morphology. Thus, I have great fun growing Thalia dealbata, various flowering gingers, die-back Heliconia species, elephant ears, cannas, and other odds and ends in my sort-or-wet-bulbs area. This year the Thalia plants have been especially beautiful towering over some elephant years. Both are near aquatics and I grow both in large tubs. The tall blue leaves of Thalia dealbata, with 5-8 ft. flower stalks are truly beautiful when mixed with lower growing plants. Thalia is a special treat for me because I took a chance and brought some home from a roadside ditch. I didn't know how well they would do without their permanently wet feet. They seem happy enough with the tubs as long as they are watered regularly; they sit in a low area of the yard the floods after some rains and they really enjoy those wet periods (often enough here near Houston, TX). But, the tubs are dry enough too (pot soil level 15-20 inches above the permanent soil), and I can put all sorts of other plants in the tubs including roses, black mondo grass, dryland sedges, even 2-3 Portulaca species (go figure). So, geophyte, marginal aquatic, water canna or wannabe bulb, Thalia dealbata grows right along side several Crinum, Colocasia, and small bananas that like the same conditions. Are bananas geophytes? Locals call the huge rhizomes "banana bulbs." FREE THALIA DEALBATA SEEDS I have a few seeds that I will happily send out for S.A.S.E., I'll try to send about 8 seeds to each recipient. Each S.A.S.E envelope will need 2 first class stamps because the seeds are pea-sized and I'll wrap them in lots of tissue. Be sure to write a private email to make sure I have seeds left. This year I can only mail in the USA. Cordially, Conroe Joe (Joe Shaw, Conroe TX, conroejoe@aol.com) LINK: Thalia dealbata information http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Plant.asp?code=A646 From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Sep 3 18:02:26 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Geophyte Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 22:02:21 +0000 Hi Mary Sue: A short comment on Canarina and not receiving any response on its images. In my particular case, I unfortunately do not have the time to comment or respond as frequently as I would want at times. This does not mean the material shared is unimportant or irrelevant (not at all). That is the case of Canarina, a geophyte from the Canary Islands that is not very easy to grow (a little peculiar in its requirements) and of which any info (images included) can only be very welcome. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat Sep 3 19:16:25 2005 Message-Id: <4aju05$2a3d4g@smtp01.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Thalia dealbata, native geophyte Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 19:16:23 -0400 Joe, it you still have some Thalia left, I would like to try them Jim McKenney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of ConroeJoe@aol.com Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 3:17 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Thalia dealbata, native geophyte Hi Gang, I treat a lot of plants that I grow as "bulbs" or "bulb-like things." Yet, I know they are not remotely bulb-like in morphology. Thus, I have great fun growing Thalia dealbata, various flowering gingers, die-back Heliconia species, elephant ears, cannas, and other odds and ends in my sort-or-wet-bulbs area. This year the Thalia plants have been especially beautiful towering over some elephant years. Both are near aquatics and I grow both in large tubs. The tall blue leaves of Thalia dealbata, with 5-8 ft. flower stalks are truly beautiful when mixed with lower growing plants. Thalia is a special treat for me because I took a chance and brought some home from a roadside ditch. I didn't know how well they would do without their permanently wet feet. They seem happy enough with the tubs as long as they are watered regularly; they sit in a low area of the yard the floods after some rains and they really enjoy those wet periods (often enough here near Houston, TX). But, the tubs are dry enough too (pot soil level 15-20 inches above the permanent soil), and I can put all sorts of other plants in the tubs including roses, black mondo grass, dryland sedges, even 2-3 Portulaca species (go figure). So, geophyte, marginal aquatic, water canna or wannabe bulb, Thalia dealbata grows right along side several Crinum, Colocasia, and small bananas that like the same conditions. Are bananas geophytes? Locals call the huge rhizomes "banana bulbs." FREE THALIA DEALBATA SEEDS I have a few seeds that I will happily send out for S.A.S.E., I'll try to send about 8 seeds to each recipient. Each S.A.S.E envelope will need 2 first class stamps because the seeds are pea-sized and I'll wrap them in lots of tissue. Be sure to write a private email to make sure I have seeds left. This year I can only mail in the USA. Cordially, Conroe Joe (Joe Shaw, Conroe TX, conroejoe@aol.com) LINK: Thalia dealbata information http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Plant.asp?code=A646 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Sat Sep 3 19:41:07 2005 Message-Id: <2C9ABB03-46F4-4577-97EB-672731469D33@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Thalia dealbata, native geophyte Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 16:41:05 -0700 Hi Joe, I'd like some if there are any left. Yucca Do sometimes offers Thalia, but I can't remember which species it was. They classified them as geophytes of some sort. And I have always heard that bananas definitely are geophytes; I think some places refer to them as "giant corms". Thanks, --Lee On Sep 3, 2005, at 12:16 PM, ConroeJoe@aol.com wrote: > FREE THALIA DEALBATA SEEDS > I have a few seeds that I will happily send out for S.A.S.E., I'll > try to > send about 8 seeds to each recipient. Each S.A.S.E envelope will > need 2 first > class stamps because the seeds are pea-sized and I'll wrap them in > lots of > tissue. Be sure to write a private email to make sure I have seeds > left. This > year I can only mail in the USA. > > > > Cordially, > > Conroe Joe > (Joe Shaw, Conroe TX, conroejoe@aol.com) > > LINK: Thalia dealbata information > http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Plant.asp?code=A646 > _______________________________________________ From john@johnlonsdale.net Sat Sep 3 20:08:59 2005 Message-Id: <20050904000859.3F6174C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Chinenses section irises Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2005 20:08:56 -0400 Alberto wrote: "A few comments. Do give your clumps-to-be-divided a drenching with a systemic insecticide one week before the actual dividing. Second, do not touch the main clump: dig a sideward hole and remove the offsets as the roots become visible. Third and so obvious: repot the fans individually and move to a place with very good light and no direct sun. I have used pure Perlite (no other ingredient) and rooting has been amazingly fast." Alberto, Many thanks for your comments. Do you mean an insecticide drench, or systemic fungicide? You don't say whether best in fall or spring - my divisions that didn't do well were taken in late spring. I'll increase the perlite in the pots I pot the fans up in. They do come fairly easily from seed (if you catch it) and hopefully next year I'll start to see any variation in the seedlings. The neighbors got a treat today - they got to watch me vacuuming the greenhouses. With the forced ventilation, even with mesh over the intakes, a good number of leaves got sucked in over the years, and the dead foliage that drops off various dormant bulbs, corms and even rhizomes (but not cormous rhizomes) can build up. I don't generally get much in the way of fungal problems but figured it was time to clean up. The shop vac did the job, although I'd have preferred the house cleaner but my wife was in. I then washed down the glazing and sprayed the whole structure with ZeroTol, including benches and newly repotted plants. I'm going to try the latter as a foliar spray through the winter to keep botrytis at bay during any damp, dull cold spells, particularly on the cyclamen and western US frits that emerge early. I've heard many good things about it and finally put out the considerable amount of money that 2.5 gallons of concentrate cost. I think it will be worth it. It works as a peroxide but at a tenth the strength of hydrogen peroxide and without phytotoxicity. The bulb and cyclamen repot was finally finished today and the first of the Cyclamen graecum are already in flower, as are more hederifolium in the garden. I just have 30 new snowdrops to plant in the garden tomorrow, as well as about 30 different South African bulbs/corms that Rachel Saunders sent me as seeds in 2002 that were likely hardy here in SE PA. They are flowering size or close enough now so we shall see! I also have 4 new Crinums to plant out, after last year's experiments with Cecil Houdyshel and Mrs. James Hendry proved successful. The former was beautiful about 3 weeks ago and adds a touch of something I never knew I was missing. Colchicum macrophyllum showed up yesterday in the onco bed but not the front of the house, the hot and dry weather has pushed the early bulbs back a bit, which I prefer. Merendera (Colchicum) montanum is also just popping through and Leucojum (Acis?) valentinum is undoubtedly hardy, coming back for a third year outside with 9 strong scapes. The flowers are over 1" across, crystalline white and almost flat when fully open, and lovely. Enough rambling. Best, J. John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From dells@voicenet.com Sun Sep 4 06:58:53 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 101 CLOSED Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 06:58:04 -0400 Due to overwhelming response, the current BX offering is closed. Packages should go out within the week. Enjoy, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From horstmann@absamail.co.za Sun Sep 4 15:40:57 2005 Message-Id: <003801c5b188$8cd253b0$1e4827c4@user6acb610e94> From: "Alan Horstmann" Subject: Replanting Worsleya raineri Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 21:39:51 +0200 Hello, I am looking for advice about repotting my Worsleya raineri, or whatever it is called now. Grown from seed 1998, my plant sits above ground and is now topling over. It needs to be repotted! How much of the bulb should be below ground level? Any advice on soil mixture and size of pot. Thank you for the help. Regards, Alan Horstmann From IntarsiaCo@aol.com Sun Sep 4 16:30:21 2005 Message-Id: <62.5c57492e.304cb35a@aol.com> From: IntarsiaCo@aol.com Subject: Replanting Worsleya raineri Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 16:30:18 EDT In a message dated 9/4/2005 3:41:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, horstmann@absamail.co.za writes: Thank you for the help There is a Worsleya_procera group at yahoo groups with several knowledgable people. Check the archives. Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. Gaylordsville, Connecticut 06755-0142 USA From arnold@nj.rr.com Mon Sep 5 11:36:21 2005 Message-Id: <431C65F2.5020308@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: eucomis bicolor Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 11:36:18 -0400 Survived a real northeast winter and flowering now. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Eucomis Arnold New Jersey From SheriAnnRicherson@exoticgardening.com Mon Sep 5 11:50:41 2005 Message-Id: <20050905155040.EB07F4C006@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Sheri Ann Richerson" Subject: eucomis bicolor Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 10:50:44 -0500 Arnold, Hello. What zone are you in? Did you mulch it? If so, how deep did you mulch it? Thanks, Sheri Indiana - zone 5 From arnold@nj.rr.com Mon Sep 5 11:55:04 2005 Message-Id: <431C6A56.1060304@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: eucomis bicolor Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 11:55:02 -0400 Sheri: I didn't mulch it and planted about six inches deep ( from the top of the bulb to soil level). It appeared very late and I had given up hope on it. As I was told by Ellen Hornig of Seneca Hill Perennials, where I acquired it, I should have a bit more faith! Arnold From arnold@nj.rr.com Mon Sep 5 11:55:44 2005 Message-Id: <431C6A7E.3020506@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: eucomis bicolor Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 11:55:42 -0400 Sheri: I guess I am a good zone 6. Arnold From jimmckenney@starpower.net Mon Sep 5 20:19:50 2005 Message-Id: <4as4s5$2e400h@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: First watering for fall growing bulbs Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 20:19:45 -0400 Mary Sue, in an August 30 post (Re: [pbs] Wi sowing times) mentioned something recently which I meant to follow up on. She was wondering when to begin sowing fall growing plants. Coincidentally, I had been reading Ian Young's Bulb Log on the SRGC site, and read that he gives his fall-winter growing plants their first good watering on September first. Ian is in Scotland where I suppose the day length is about to begin to shorten dramatically. Here in Maryland we still have a good month and a half of good growing weather ahead of us, and there is always the chance that there will not be a killing frost until well into November. So there is no rush here to get things going, and in fact, soil temperatures will probably remain relatively high for weeks. Wet warm soil and bulbs are not in my experience a good combination. Do others follow a strict schedule in starting to water fall blooming Crocus, Colchicum and other fall bloomers? If so, when and why? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the soil is dry as powder and the fall bloomers show no sign of life except Colchicum bivonae 'Apollo' which is on the way up - although Scilla scilloides has been in bloom for weeks. From mmattus@charter.net Mon Sep 5 21:17:47 2005 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: First watering for fall growing bulbs Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 21:17:44 -0400 I also follow Ian's schedule for watering, but to be clear, both Ian, and I, water generally around the first week of September, but schedules adjust to start watering when night time temperatures are cooler, generally around the last week of August through early September. Here, in central Massachusetts, we started getting chilly nights in the 50's last weekend, so I started watering my winter growing bulbs that have been placed in their plunges, waiting for their first "autumn" rains. Outside bulbs get no special treatment. This only applies to bulbs grown under protection, which, I believe is what Ian Young also refers to when he talks about his first watering. Now, to further clarify, this treatment is applied only to those bulbs that are tender, the fall and winter blooming bulbs in the greenhouse, the alpine house and bulb beds. For me, this means the Nerine sarniensis hybrids and Lachenalia in the glass house, the winter blooming Oxalis, the Tecophilea, Romulea, Velthiemia, and basically all of the winter blooming South African bulbs. Also in the greenhouse, it is the time that I start watering the pots of Narcissus romieuxii, albidus and the other fall and winter blooming tender narcissus as well as all of the pots of Cyclamen species, ( C. cilicium, C. mirabile, C. intaminatum, C.coum and, well, we grow most of them). All of these were repotted in August and have been awaiting their first "rain" generally around September 1. I traditionally have started watering on labor day here in the US which is around the first week of September. If it is still hot, I wait a week or too. I prefer not to wait longer since many of the bulbs are already starting to root, which I believe is triggered by temperature and a sort-of internal clock, more than by day length. Last week I was still repotting some oxalis species which I was late repotting, and they all we're starting to root, even though I had not begun watering yet. Of course, the first watering is just a signal watering, I soak the plunge material (sand) and then wait as long as a month before I water again. I simple water well, until the plunge is dripping, then wait until I see growth. I would advise that growers of these bulbs wait until they start to get cooler evening temperatures before starting the growing cycle. Matt Mattus Worcester, Massachusetts USA USDA Zone 5b From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue Sep 6 10:58:28 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050906075608.0110ad20@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: First watering for fall growing bulbs Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 07:58:25 -0700 Jim McK asked >Do others follow a strict schedule in starting to water fall blooming >Crocus, Colchicum and other fall bloomers? If so, when and why? I have some bulbs I water a bit right through the summer, and that includes certain crocuses and colchicums. I do the main fall watering, including xeric species, at the onset of fall rains here, or (if the rains are late) when the daytime temperatures drop below about 75 F. The principle is that bulbs not from summer-rain areas should not be hot and wet at the same time. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Sep 6 11:11:24 2005 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Watering fall bulbs Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 10:17:21 -0500 Freinds; Does this include watering for Saffron crocus? I am expecting flowers soon, but also awaiting some more rain. Should I water? It is a bit early. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From john@johnlonsdale.net Tue Sep 6 11:22:29 2005 Message-Id: From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Watering fall bulbs Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 11:22:50 -0400 Jim, Anything outside gets what nature delivers in the form of rainfall. I assume your saffron crocus are in the ground? Mine here won't flower for at least another month. I never water dormant bulbs outside, unless they are tolerant and happen to be interplanted with something that screams for water from a hose. The frequency and amount of rainfall determines the flowering time here, and this year is and will continue to be late because we are so dry, albeit not baking hot anymore. Regarding bulbs in pots, I water newly potted cyclamen seedlings as soon as they are potted up, anytime from the beginning of August onwards. They are fine with this. Anything else gets a first watering sometime in the first 2-3 weeks of September, but definitely not before the daytime temps are firmly in the low 80s and at night it gets into the high 50s and low 60s. Compost around newly repotted bulbs wets much better than compost in pots not repotted, so that it is important to regularly 'soak' the non-repotted pots several times over a few days to get to the same moisture level as in those that were repotted. If you don't do this you end up with a bunch of things much drier than they like to be. Once the compost in everything is well wetted, I back off considerably and don't water again until they are on the dry side. J. On Tue, 6 Sep 2005 10:17:21 -0500 James Waddick wrote: >Freinds; > Does this include watering for Saffron crocus? I am >expecting > flowers soon, but also awaiting some more rain. Should I >water? > It is a bit early. > > Best Jim W. From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Tue Sep 6 12:09:10 2005 Message-Id: <431DBEB3.62A1BB41@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: stolon/corm Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 09:07:15 -0700 Dear All John Lonsdale asked "When does the stolon become a corm?". Several species of geophytes, including certain species of lilies, will produce a stolon and at the end of the stolon form a corm, or in the case of Lilium, form a true bulb. Lilium wardii is an example, another is L. lankongense which sometime will travel as much as 12 inches by means of a stolon and then form a bulb. Consequently a bed of this species will soon double in size. Cheers, John E. Bryan From dkramb@badbear.com Tue Sep 6 13:08:35 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050906130805.01c750a8@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: stolon/corm Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 13:08:50 -0400 Iris anguifuga from China does something similar. It's pretty unique in the iris world! Dennis in Cincinnati At 12:07 PM 9/6/2005, you wrote: >Dear All > >John Lonsdale asked "When does the stolon become a corm?". > >Several species of geophytes, including certain species of lilies, will >produce a stolon and at the end of the stolon form a corm, or in the >case of Lilium, form a true bulb. Lilium wardii is an example, another >is L. lankongense which sometime will travel as much as 12 inches by >means of a stolon and then form a bulb. Consequently a bed of this >species will soon double in size. Cheers, John E. Bryan >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jimmckenney@starpower.net Tue Sep 6 14:03:59 2005 Message-Id: <4as4s5$2ebo6s@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: stolon/corm Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 14:03:54 -0400 Dear John Bryan and others who have been following this thread: Aren't the concepts stolon and rhizome being conflated in this discussion? Although they have similarities, stolons form above ground and rhizomes form below ground. The structures mentioned so far in Eleocharis, Crocosmia, Crocus and Lilium are rhizomes, not stolons. In fact, now that I think about it, it makes no sense at all that any geophyte should have a stolon: since the bulb or corm or whatever is itself below ground, any peregrinating perenniating buds must form on what at first must be rhizomes. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I've been busy ripping out stolons of Pollia japonica (d*#@ weed) and rhizomes of Convolvulus arvensis (not without reason called devil's guts). From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue Sep 6 14:30:20 2005 Message-Id: <474d7738ff0eeef186f7d50268d62f69@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 11:30:18 -0700 I know that some of you live in Massachusetts, so maybe you know more about this than what was in this article. But I am disturbed that not only is part of one federal government agency busy trying to figure out a way to ban plants that they are even remotely worried about, now I read (in the latest issue of HortIdeas) that there are state government agencies trying to do the same thing only within their state. I am totally in favor of controlling plants from invading and completely overtaking an ecosystem. But it seems some of the plants Mass. wants to ban are pretty ordinary and already growing in that state as well as many others. I'm not sure where this will all lead. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 10a ============================= Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants On July 11, 2005, the Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources published a public notice of and request for comment on a proposal “to ban/phase-out the importation and sale of more than 140 plants identified as either noxious or invasive.” The full text of the notice and a list of the plants to be banned/phased-out (including species on the Federal Noxious Weed List and species identified as “invasive,” “likely invasive,” or “potentially invasive” by the Massachusetts Invasive Plant Advisory Group) are at www.mass.gov/agr, and printed copies can be obtained by calling 617-626-1775. The proposal calls for prohibition of importation of the listed plants into Massachusetts as of January 1, 2006; prohibition of “sale, trade, distribution, and related activties” for all listed plants except 12 species commonly sold as ornamentals (these exceptions will be phased out of commerce by 2007 if herbaceous and by 2009 if woody); and exceptions to prohibition and phase-out rules for listed plants under special permits if: a. There is a significant public benefit in doing so; and b. Where the risks posed by these species can be adequately controlled. The 12 species that will be phased out include Acer platanoides (Norway maple), A. pseudoplatanus (sycamore maple), Berberis thunbergii (Japanese barberry), Euonymus alatus (burning bush), Iris pseudacorus (yellow iris), Lonicera japonica (Japanese honeysuckle), L. maackii (Amur honeysuckle), L. morrowii (Morrow’s honeysuckle), L. × bella (Bell’s honeysuckle), L. tatarica (Tatarian honeysuckle), Miscanthus sacchariflorus (plume grass), and Myosotis scorpioides (forget-me-not). Among the species to be banned by next year are Ailanthus altissima (tree of heaven), Berberis vulgaris (common barberry), Celastrus orbiculatus (oriental bittersweet), Ligustrum obtusifolium (border privet), Lythrum salicaria (purple loosestrife), Opuntia aurantiaca (jointed prickly pear), Phellodendron amurense (Amur cork tree), Phragmites australis (common reed), Pueraria montana (kudzu), Rhamnus cathartica (common buckthorn), Robinia pseudoacacia (black locust), Rosa multiflora (multiflora rose), Rubus phoenicolasius (wineberry), Trapa natans (water chestnut), and Tussilago farfara (coltsfoot). Especially noteworthy, in light of the article above on U.S.D.A. promotion of autum olive for commercial fruit production*, is the fact that Eleagnus umbellata is included in the list of species to be banned as of January 1, 2006. Existing plantings of the listed plants are not affected by the proposed ban/phase-out rules. Written comments on the proposed rules will be accepted during September 2005; these should be sent to Trevor Battle, Dept. of Agricultural Resources, 251 Causeway St., Suite 500, Boston, MA 02114-2151, e-mail Trevor.Battle@state.ma.us. Public meetings regarding the proposed rules are scheduled for September 13 at Waltham and September 15 at Amherst. -------- *In the June 2005 HortIdeas (page 69), we reported that U.S. Department of Agriculture researchers are touting autumn olive (Elaeagnus umbellata) as a possible commercial fruit crop even though the species is notorious as an invader of wildlands. ... We believe, as we wrote in June, that U.S.D.A. workers who are charged with addressing problems of invasive species will be aghast to learn that some in the Department are promoting commercial orchards of such species. It seems highly inconsistent for the U.S.D.A. to be preaching to the general public to avoid planting potential invaders while at the same time working to foster commercial planting of known invaders! Reference: Brent L. Black (Fruit Laboratory, Henry A. Wallace Beltsville Agricultural Research Center, Agricultural Research Service, U.S.D.A., Beltsville, MD 20705), Ingrid M. Fordham, and Penelope Perkins-Veazie, “Autumnberry (Elaeagnus umbellata): A Potential Cash Crop,” Journal of the American Pomological Society 59(3), July 2005, 125-134. (American Pomological Society, 102 Tyson Bldg., University Park, PA 16802.) From jimmckenney@starpower.net Tue Sep 6 14:34:08 2005 Message-Id: <4as4s5$2ec5l6@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Iris anguifuga Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 14:34:06 -0400 Dennis, does Iris anguifuga have a reputation in Chinese folk lore for being a snake repellent? That's what the name seems to imply. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where if there's any truth in the name, that's one species of Iris I don't want. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Sep 6 14:54:57 2005 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Iris anguifuga info Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 14:00:55 -0500 Dear All; I collected and introduced this iris from, E. China over 15 years ago. It has never been offered commercially, but I am arranging same in the next year or two. Here's a bit I wrote for Iris City Garden in TN. It is possibly related to Spuria Irises, I. foetidissima, Syriacae Irises and perhaps some reticulatas. I have given it the uninspired cv name of 'Snake Bane' and registration with AIS is in progress. Slightly edited " 'Snake Bane' is the first named and registered clone of Iris anguifuga, a Chinese native iris. This species has had medicinal and mystical qualities appreciated by the Chinese possibly for centuries, but only described and named recently. The plant produces a single spuria-like bloom in mid spring. Shortly after the flower fades, seeds are produced and the foliage quickly goes dormant my last spring. In myth, the apparent 'weakness of the foliage' allows snakes to appear in the garden (come out of dormancy). The plant has no obvious foliage all summer. In late fall, the plant produces a few short evergreen growths, but this iris fan is 'strong' enough to force snakes back into their winter hibernation. Foliage remains evergreen even in temps to 0 F and snakes are kept at bay, thus the name 'Snake Bane'. The cycle repeats each year as the plant goes dormant and snakes appear again in late summer. The Chinese believe that planting this iris around homes and gardens will keep snakes away. A poultice made from mashed roots is applied to snake bite and may even be taken internally although no medicinal benefits are suggested. The iris is unique in many ways. It is the only species to have a single bract beneath its flower (all others have at least 2) and the unusual rhizome is close to a 'missing link' between rhizome and bulb. In active growth a thick woody rhizome supports the thin foliage, but after a summer's dormancy the rhizome may shrink back to a near bulb-like form with a single growing point. The flower has narrow spoon shaped falls of purple violet and matching standards of thin upright form. Although a single flower does not have garden impact, a clump in bloom is distinctive for its form and bloom habit. The seed capsule is unique with a long pointed tip. Iris anguifuga 'Snake Bane' was collected in China and has been vegetatively propagated from a single rhizome in Zone 5 where it has proven totally hardy with no mulch and bloomed yearly in half a day's sun and unmodified garden soil. While some may consider this a 'collector's ' iris it has interesting potential in breeding with spuria and other iris. This is the first commercial offering of a rare, unusual and intriguing iris species. " Any questions? Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jimmckenney@starpower.net Tue Sep 6 15:02:48 2005 Message-Id: <4as4s5$2ech24@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 15:02:37 -0400 Lee's post prompts me to mention something which is happening in my own neighborhood. We're having a big problem locally with mile-a-minute vine (Polygonum perfoliatum) here, and also with kudzu (Pueraria montana v. lobata); additionally, certain areas are over-run with Garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata, aka officinalis). This year local authorities sprayed something - probably Roundup - to kill these plants. This was a huge success. Just about everything green within the spray zone is now dead. What I'm dying to see is this: what comes next? Is the area going to be re-planted with native plants? This area is by nature woodland, and such fields as exist are ruderal in origin. Furthermore, very few if any woodland native plants are inexpensively available in nursery channels. The site slopes, so something will have to be done soon. Will cost considerations force the use of lawn grasses? Will the area be re-planted with plants which in the chauvinistic sense are native but which correspond to nothing in the local ecosystems? Is someone going to show up out of the blue with thousands of Erythronium americanum? Getting rid of the aliens was the easy part. Successfully reintroducing the natives strikes me a being a huge challenge. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where if the aliens have to go, my garden will look like a plucked chicken. From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Tue Sep 6 15:06:23 2005 Message-Id: <000c01c5b315$f7e19b50$d331a551@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: watering fall bulbs Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 21:05:38 +0200 Hello all, At this moment in Belgium the crocus saffron are offered in the garden centres,I have just planted my bulbs in full ground.and at this moment we still have teperatures of 27 dg.Celcius(80.6 farh.)en perhaps get a little rain the first coming days,I hope.My other crocus called waterlily,already are open a couple of days,in spite of dryness,but they stand under a tree.I give no water I hope that nature do it for me.It is not much information,but I'm a little afraid,because You are all experience garden men or woman. Regards, Marie-Paule From putman@pobox.upenn.edu Tue Sep 6 16:46:32 2005 Message-Id: <431E0008.70908@pobox.upenn.edu> From: Stephen Putman Subject: Hippeastrum traubii fm doraniania Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 16:46:00 -0400 Its repotting time again, and I have just done Hipp. traubii fm. doraniana. I have quite a number of spare bulbs ranging is size from small offsets to near blooming size. These are for trade or sale. I am interested in unusual Hippeastrum species, or some of the other Amaryillids. First preference in trades is to those with whom I've traded before. I've not yet figured a price for those to be sold, and I'm going to wait until any trades are negotiated. Please contact me at the reply-to address, as we are not supposed to "do business" on this site. Steve Putman From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Tue Sep 6 16:53:47 2005 Message-Id: <000e01c5b324$f95aa8f0$d331a551@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: large blooper Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 22:53:03 +0200 Hello All, A knowlege has indicated me pleasantly that the waterlily is a colchicum,sorry for that large mistake.Nevertheless the flowers thrive beautiful Regards, Marie-Paule From putman@pobox.upenn.edu Tue Sep 6 16:58:28 2005 Message-Id: <431E02D3.7090800@pobox.upenn.edu> From: Stephen Putman Subject: Hippeastrum traubii fm doraniania message Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 16:57:55 -0400 Sorry again, I can't remember which bulletin board uses what for a reply-to. In any case, reply to me at putman@pobox.upenn.edu sTeve Putman From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Tue Sep 6 17:17:15 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050906231620.01daaec0@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: stolon/corm Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 23:17:05 +0200 At 20:03 06-09-2005, Jim McKenney wrote: >Jim McKenney >Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I've been busy ripping >out stolons of Pollia japonica (d*#@ weed) and rhizomes of Convolvulus >arvensis (not without reason called devil's guts). Now this Convolvulus arvensis must be my bindweed! Horrible stuff, yes! Carol From hornig@usadatanet.net Tue Sep 6 17:23:02 2005 Message-Id: <380-22005926212243171@M2W083.mail2web.com> From: "hornig@usadatanet.net" Subject: Brief commercial announcement (fall plant list) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 17:22:43 -0400 This is just to let anyone who's interested know that our website has now been updated to show fall plant (and bulb) availability. We do not publish a printed fall catalog. Ellen Hornig Seneca Hill Perennials http://www.senecahill.com -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Tue Sep 6 17:30:05 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050906232615.01d84d58@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: watering fall bulbs Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 23:29:54 +0200 At 21:05 06-09-2005, Marie-Paule wrote: >Hello all, >At this moment in Belgium the crocus saffron are offered in the garden centres,I have just planted my bulbs in full ground.and at this moment we still have teperatures of 27 dg.Celcius(80.6 farh.)en perhaps get a little rain the first coming days,I hope.My other crocus called waterlily,already are open a couple of days,in spite of dryness,but they stand under a tree.I give no water I hope that nature do it for me.It is not much information,but I'm a little afraid,because You are all experience garden men or woman. >Regards, >Marie-Paule Well, Marie-Paule, here in Denmark we expect 26C tomorrow. I do water outdoor plants when it doesn't rain for a week or 10 days. I have no hose, well I do have hoses, but nothing to hook them up to, so I water with milk cartons, the same as I do indoors. I always have at least 12 milk cartons, rinsed and filled with cold water, which becomes room temperature by the time I need them. So late in the year, even though we still have warm weather, we get quite a bit of dew in the evening, so all my outdoor tomatoes are very satisfied. It may not be like that in Belgium, but you could check at 9 P.M. to see if dew has fallen. If not, I would water. Carol From bklehm@comcast.net Tue Sep 6 18:13:29 2005 Message-Id: From: Brook Klehm Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 15:13:26 -0700 Hello All, Michael Pollen wrote about this issue in his book, Second Nature. It is an exploration of the concepts of "natural" and "nature" in our modern world. He's a wonderful writer and interesting thinker. He writes about husbanding natural landscapes as they go through extreme changes (after hurricanes, tornados, wild fires, etc) so that the bare ground that results is not covered by: kudzu, blackberries, broom or the like. He makes it clear that simply letting "nature take it's course" is not a very realistic solution if the landscape is to return to any semblance of it's original condition/appearance. Non native plants are so superior in colonizing disturbed places and can create conditions that are inimical to the re-establishing flora that is "native". And then he goes ahead and asks, "When was the plant introduced? What makes a plant native?" It's an interesting exploration, especially to those of us who care about native flora and belong to organizations that promote native flora. I would like to offer more information on the book, but it seems I have lent it out. I'm certain you know how that goes! Brook From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Tue Sep 6 19:30:09 2005 Message-Id: <000d01c5b33a$cee69460$d331a551@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: watering fall bulbs Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 01:29:20 +0200 Hello Carol, What happened than if they do not get regular water? can the bulbs die then or schrivel?or do they remain then in sleep situation? Tommorow I give them water,and see what happened.Thanks for the information Carol. Hilse-Regards, Marie-Paule ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carol Jensen" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" ; "pbs" Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 11:29 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] watering fall bulbs > At 21:05 06-09-2005, Marie-Paule wrote: > >Hello all, > >At this moment in Belgium the crocus saffron are offered in the garden centres,I have just planted my bulbs in full ground.and at this moment we still have teperatures of 27 dg.Celcius(80.6 farh.)en perhaps get a little rain the first coming days,I hope.My other crocus called waterlily,already are open a couple of days,in spite of dryness,but they stand under a tree.I give no water I hope that nature do it for me.It is not much information,but I'm a little afraid,because You are all experience garden men or woman. > >Regards, > >Marie-Paule > > Well, Marie-Paule, here in Denmark we expect 26C tomorrow. I do water outdoor plants when it doesn't rain for a week or 10 days. I have no hose, well I do have hoses, but nothing to hook them up to, so I water with milk cartons, the same as I do indoors. I always have at least 12 milk cartons, rinsed and filled with cold water, which becomes room temperature by the time I need them. > > So late in the year, even though we still have warm weather, we get quite a bit of dew in the evening, so all my outdoor tomatoes are very satisfied. It may not be like that in Belgium, but you could check at 9 P.M. to see if dew has fallen. If not, I would water. > > Carol > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > From arnold@nj.rr.com Tue Sep 6 21:08:12 2005 Message-Id: <431E3D79.4010603@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 21:08:09 -0400 Brook: Michael Pollan also covers some of the same points in the "Botany of Desire". He illustrates how some non native plants have convinced us that we should grow them because they provide us with apples, cannabis, tulips or a lawn. Arnold From jshields@indy.net Wed Sep 7 09:40:22 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050907082455.02764930@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 08:40:45 -0500 Hi all, I wish they would make it illegal to grow Taraxacum officinale (dandelion), Plantago major (common plantain), and Plantago lanceolata (buckhorn), too. Then there is Crisium arvense (canada thistle), the bane of my existence. If we are going to ban introduced plants, let's start with these pests. I intend to keep my Narcissus, Lycoris, Hosta, Tulipa, Crocus, Hemerocallis, non-native Iris varieties, Cyclamen, and innumerable other exotics. Humans need their wheat and their animals need their soybeans. Humans, wheat, and soybeans are all introduced alien species in North America. So are domestic cattle, horses, pigs, and sheep. North America will never be the same as it was before ca. 15,000 years ago, when humans were not yet permanent residents. Jim Shields, amid the weeds in central Indiana ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Wed Sep 7 10:22:21 2005 Message-Id: <52857FDB394B7E45BA1F2E60D7313E2A0182BEE7@cbgmail.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 09:26:14 -0500 At best this is a complicated and emotional issue for many of us, myself included. In the early years of the US, if a landowner did not utilize his property in the most productive way (farming, timber, ranching, oil drilling) they were subject to losing their land through emminent domain seisures by the local/state/federal governments. The result is most of the land in the eastern 2/3rds of the nation was significantly altered from it's natural state. As time has decreased the importance of agricultural produce and natural products (and as an appreciation has grown for the natural world) many tracts of land have been allowed to go fallow (non-cultivated). In their non-cultivated state anything and everything that can survive does so, including species that were introduced (intentionally or as weeds in cultivated crops) as part of the human ecosystem (includes, among other things, collections of plants and animals that permit large human populations to exist in a wide variety of habitats). Many of these areas have been set aside as 'natural areas'. To return these fallow tracts of land to a semblance of the ecosystems our forefathers found when they settled the land, we have to weed them (non-natives and non-desirable natives); apparently more of less indefinitely (work at Gray Summit Arboretum (Mobot), Chicago Botanic Garden, etc.). In effect, our natural areas, to maintain their species purity, have to be weeded; and in suitable habitats artificial fires have to be set and controlled. Basically that translates into cultivation - the only difference between managing natural areas today and growing an agricultural crop is the end product. This disjunct between what I 'feel' to be natural and what I recognise as cultivated has not been something I have been philosophically able to adjust to. There are those within the conservation movement that feel if we just ... (fill in the blanks) then natural areas will not have to be managed and all of our problems will be solved. One of the blanks that has been proposed is the control (to varying degrees) of some/all plant taxa associated with the human ecosystem. Simplistic solutions to complicated problems always fail, and always create additional problems. I don't have an answer, but I am wary of simplistic solutions (historical parallel to be found in Prohibition as a solution to perils of alcohol). Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org From jshields@indy.net Wed Sep 7 10:55:19 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050907093538.0275bdd8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 09:55:42 -0500 Hi all, I agree with Boyce's remarks entirely. Where Boyce responds to this dilemma with reason and logic, I react with sarcasm and cynicism. It is painful to think about how far we have changed the world around us from a natural state of nature. It is also painful to think how we would ourselves survive in such a world. Indeed, humans started cultivating the Americas when they arrived at least 12,000 years ago. They soon wiped out -- probably with the help of a changing post-glacial climate -- most of the megafauna such as mammoths, mastodons, sabre tooth cats, horses, and probably many more species that I'm not aware of. They changed the face of North America forever. When Europeans arrived ca. 400 years ago, they just accelerated the same basic process. Nature is in a constant state of flux. The "balance of Nature" is a dynamic process, not a static condition. There is no going back to the past. If we care at all, the most we can do is try to preserve some remnants of the past in the midst of our vigorous civilization. It certainly requires conservation, but it will always of necessity be very limited in extent. Let's face it: Most people care more about their immediate needs for food, shelter, clothing, and the luxuries their neighbors may have, than they do about nature and what used to be. Most of us in this group do care about plants, wild plants, cultivated plants, pretty plants, useless plants. We are where those plants will find temporary refuge, if they find it at all. The dandelions can fend for themselves, of course. Jim Shields At 09:26 AM 9/7/2005 -0500, you wrote: >At best this is a complicated and emotional issue for many of us, myself >included. > >......... >There are those within the conservation movement that feel if we just ... >(fill in the blanks) then natural areas will not have to be managed and >all of our problems will be solved. One of the blanks that has been >proposed is the control (to varying degrees) of some/all plant taxa >associated with the human ecosystem. Simplistic solutions to complicated >problems always fail, and always create additional problems. I don't have >an answer, but I am wary of simplistic solutions (historical parallel to >be found in Prohibition as a solution to perils of alcohol). > >Boyce Tankersley >btankers@chicagobotanic.org ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From paph2@earthlink.net Wed Sep 7 12:05:28 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.1.1.2.20050907090514.033c7e30@pop.uci.edu> From: Harold Koopowitz Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 09:05:21 -0700 Boyce: That is well put. And there are no simple solutions. Harold At 07:26 AM 9/7/2005, you wrote: >At best this is a complicated and emotional issue for many of us, myself >included. > >In the early years of the US, if a landowner did not utilize his property >in the most productive way (farming, timber, ranching, oil drilling) they >were subject to losing their land through emminent domain seisures by the >local/state/federal governments. The result is most of the land in the >eastern 2/3rds of the nation was significantly altered from it's natural >state. As time has decreased the importance of agricultural produce and >natural products (and as an appreciation has grown for the natural world) >many tracts of land have been allowed to go fallow (non-cultivated). In >their non-cultivated state anything and everything that can survive does >so, including species that were introduced (intentionally or as weeds in >cultivated crops) as part of the human ecosystem (includes, among other >things, collections of plants and animals that permit large human >populations to exist in a wide variety of habitats). Many of these areas >have been set aside as 'natural areas'. To return > these fallow tracts of land to a semblance of the ecosystems our > forefathers found when they settled the land, we have to weed them > (non-natives and non-desirable natives); apparently more of less > indefinitely (work at Gray Summit Arboretum (Mobot), Chicago Botanic > Garden, etc.). In effect, our natural areas, to maintain their species > purity, have to be weeded; and in suitable habitats artificial fires have > to be set and controlled. Basically that translates into cultivation - > the only difference between managing natural areas today and growing an > agricultural crop is the end product. This disjunct between what I 'feel' > to be natural and what I recognise as cultivated has not been something I > have been philosophically able to adjust to. > >There are those within the conservation movement that feel if we just ... >(fill in the blanks) then natural areas will not have to be managed and >all of our problems will be solved. One of the blanks that has been >proposed is the control (to varying degrees) of some/all plant taxa >associated with the human ecosystem. Simplistic solutions to complicated >problems always fail, and always create additional problems. I don't have >an answer, but I am wary of simplistic solutions (historical parallel to >be found in Prohibition as a solution to perils of alcohol). > >Boyce Tankersley >btankers@chicagobotanic.org > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed Sep 7 12:15:58 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050907090443.010bdf20@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Travel inquiries Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 09:11:43 -0700 I have two questions to post, unrelated to each other except that both have to do with travel. 1. The NARGS is sponsoring a seed-collecting expedition to the Atlas Mountains of Morocco in 2006, led by Rod Haenni of Colorado. It is a two-part expedition, one trip in spring to scout out the plants, and another later in the season to collect seeds. People interested in joining either or both trips (which will be strenuous, particularly the later one) should contact Rod: rhaenni@comcast.net 2. I'm interested in visiting Taiwan, just to experience something entirely different, and would like advice on the best time to see mountain plants (presumably late spring?). I'd also like to know, from those who have been there, whether it is unrealistic for a person who does not speak and read Mandarin to contemplate traveling there, particularly by car. I'd like to make the trip next year and I don't think I could learn to read it by then, though I could probably manage speaking (I've studied other tone languages). I even thought of hiring a local person, perhaps a college student studying botany, as a guide, but it seems so imperialistic! Thanks, Jane McGary From voltaire@islandnet.com Wed Sep 7 12:48:07 2005 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 09:48:03 -0700 It is interesting to do a Google search on "plant migration". I did it to find the title of a book I read in the 1950s about scientists tracking weeds to map prehistoric migrations of people. One chapter was on sunflowers on the plains east of the Rockies. I haven't found the name of the book yet, but I'm fascinated by the articles I am finding, many about colonization of areas after the ice ages. It represents such a different attitude to say "plant migrations" rather than "alien invasions". Diane Whitehead From dkramb@badbear.com Wed Sep 7 13:23:11 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050907130125.01d18ec0@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 13:23:29 -0400 This is a very philosophical issue, and one that I enjoy immensely. I don't necessarily consider these alien invasions to be unnatural. Sure, humans caused them, but then humans are part of the natural environment too. Don't get me wrong. I think these alien invasions can be tragic, and I applaud efforts to contain, control, and prevent them. But I choose not to think of them in terms of humans versus nature. These are all natural processes. Species have been wiping each other out for ages. Humans are probably the first species with the capacity to understand their impact on the planet and likewise be equipped to regret & learn from (and consequently modify) their actions! This Massachusetts ban is certainly intriguing. Banning the import of aggressive plants is a good first step, but now eliminating them from the landscape is the bigger challenge! Dennis in Cincinnati From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Wed Sep 7 15:27:55 2005 Message-Id: <20050907192754.43726.qmail@web33907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: Hippeastrum traubii fm doraniania Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 12:27:54 -0700 (PDT) Hi Steve: I'll buy some, unless they are the same as mine? James Frelichowski Stephen Putman wrote: Its repotting time again, and I have just done Hipp. traubii fm. doraniana. I have quite a number of spare bulbs ranging is size from small offsets to near blooming size. These are for trade or sale. I am interested in unusual Hippeastrum species, or some of the other Amaryillids. First preference in trades is to those with whom I've traded before. I've not yet figured a price for those to be sold, and I'm going to wait until any trades are negotiated. Please contact me at the reply-to address, as we are not supposed to "do business" on this site. Steve Putman _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From dkramb@badbear.com Wed Sep 7 15:43:39 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050907154231.01d4b200@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Iris anguifuga info Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 15:43:56 -0400 At 03:00 PM 9/6/2005, you wrote: >Dear All; > I collected and introduced this iris from, E. China over 15 >years ago. It has never been offered commercially, but I am arranging I didn't know that was you! :-) I hope I didn't steal your thunder by mentioning this plant before you did (during that corm/stolon thread). I would love to try this plant in Cincinnati since I've heard such promising reports coming out of Missouri. Now I know it will be available through Iris City Gardens, I am a happy camper indeed. Dennis in Cincinnati From dkramb@badbear.com Wed Sep 7 15:45:00 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050907154406.01c45880@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Travel inquiries Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 15:45:18 -0400 At 12:11 PM 9/7/2005, you wrote: >I have two questions to post, unrelated to each other except that both have >to do with travel. > >1. The NARGS is sponsoring a seed-collecting expedition to the Atlas >Mountains of Morocco in 2006, led by Rod Haenni of Colorado. It is a *DROOL* I would love to go on such a trip. Back in 1998 I got to do some collecting in the Pelepponesus portion of Greece, as well as the northwestern mountains (near Albania). That was tons of fun. It's hard to believe that was 7 years ago already! Dennis in Cincinnati (who has also discovered the joys of seed collecting around the wild parts of Ohio) From john@johnlonsdale.net Wed Sep 7 15:54:17 2005 Message-Id: From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Iris anguifuga info Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 15:54:39 -0400 On Wed, 07 Sep 2005 15:43:56 -0400 Dennis Kramb wrote: I would love to try this plant in Cincinnati since I've heard such promising reports coming out of Missouri. In the three years I've had it (from JW) outside in SE Pennsylvania it has performed very well. After a year to settle down it has flowered nicely the last couple of springs. You can see three images at http://tinyurl.com/ahdhd It is at the bottom left center of the page in Subgen_Limniris_Sect_Ophioiris Best, J. From dkramb@badbear.com Wed Sep 7 16:47:51 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050907164738.01c6cec0@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Iris anguifuga info Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 16:48:10 -0400 >You can see three images at http://tinyurl.com/ahdhd WOW! That looks very foetidissima-esque to me! Are the seeds even remotely showy? Dennis in Cincinnati From lizwat@earthlink.net Wed Sep 7 16:53:29 2005 Message-Id: <431F5301.5040000@earthlink.net> From: Liz Waterman Subject: Travel inquiries Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 13:52:17 -0700 Jane, It has been many years since I traveled around Taiwan by train. Outside Taipai, there was little to no English spoken or written. I'm sure it is much easier now. I was with someone who could read and speak a little Mandarin and I was willing to make a fool of myself quacking, clucking, and hopping to get food to eat. It would be a wonderful treat for a botany sudent to travel with you and your life would be much easier. Liz Jane McGary wrote: >I have two questions to post, unrelated to each other except that both have >to do with travel. > > >2. I'm interested in visiting Taiwan, just to experience something entirely >different, and would like advice on the best time to see mountain plants >(presumably late spring?). I'd also like to know, from those who have been >there, whether it is unrealistic for a person who does not speak and read >Mandarin to contemplate traveling there, particularly by car. I'd like to >make the trip next year and I don't think I could learn to read it by then, >though I could probably manage speaking (I've studied other tone >languages). I even thought of hiring a local person, perhaps a college >student studying botany, as a guide, but it seems so imperialistic! > >Thanks, >Jane McGary > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > From john@johnlonsdale.net Wed Sep 7 16:54:08 2005 Message-Id: From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Iris anguifuga info Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 16:54:31 -0400 Seeds - what seeds? J. On Wed, 07 Sep 2005 16:48:10 -0400 Dennis Kramb wrote: > >>You can see three images at http://tinyurl.com/ahdhd > > WOW! That looks very foetidissima-esque to me! Are the >seeds even > remotely showy? > > Dennis in Cincinnati > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From mmattus@charter.net Wed Sep 7 22:04:28 2005 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 22:04:26 -0400 I agree with most of what has been already stated on this subject, but I do have some thought on this. As thoughtful horticulturists, we must understand that as a species, we are indeed affecting our environment. Accepting the fact that we have the capacity to move a tremendous amount of species around as any given time, I believe, is of great concern. Stating that this fact is as "natural" as species migration is of the same logic as stating that the fact that we have created airplanes, overpopulation and Wallmart parking lots "Natural"behavior isn't always wise, but they do add to the quality of our lives, often at other species' expense. I personally don't wish to be associated with a species that contributes to the destruction of our planet, yet I am sitting here on a plastic computer. Hmmmm? Oh, the irony! But this attempt to control invasive species, I support, as do many other horticulturists such as Dan Hinkley. Anyway, I live in Massachusetts, in a city that has recently counted over 200,000 Norway maples planted on it's streets. Cars are green with pollen in the spring and allergies are rampant. Lythrum salicaria has invaded our wetlands at a rate that mimics the invasion of Phragmites. Waterfowl are forced to find new breeding areas and populations of leapard frogs are gone. Simply, I feel that the few species covered in this act are not considered extreme measures. They are indeed invaseve. I counted over thirty Berberis seedling in our back woods, I feel that we should all be concerned and not cavalier about invasive species. We are more informed now as to the risks, if we are the smarter species, let's start acting like it. Matt Mattus Worcester, Massachusetts On 9/7/05 1:23 PM, "Dennis Kramb" wrote: > This is a very philosophical issue, and one that I enjoy immensely. I > don't necessarily consider these alien invasions to be unnatural. Sure, > humans caused them, but then humans are part of the natural environment too. > > Don't get me wrong. I think these alien invasions can be tragic, and I > applaud efforts to contain, control, and prevent them. But I choose not to > think of them in terms of humans versus nature. > > These are all natural processes. Species have been wiping each other out > for ages. Humans are probably the first species with the capacity to > understand their impact on the planet and likewise be equipped to regret & > learn from (and consequently modify) their actions! > > This Massachusetts ban is certainly intriguing. Banning the import of > aggressive plants is a good first step, but now eliminating them from the > landscape is the bigger challenge! > > Dennis in Cincinnati > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Sep 8 00:02:48 2005 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Iris anguifuga info Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 23:07:54 -0500 To all who have inquired off-line direct and here; Please contact Iris City Gardens (http://www.iriscitygardens.com/) either next season (2006) or later. It is in the works. John's pictures show the single bract covering the base of the flower. Thanks Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Thu Sep 8 14:09:07 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050908200614.01d86ff0@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: plant migration Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 20:08:53 +0200 It isn't always humans that transport plants. The ordinary blackbird (European, that is) ate blackberries in the Caucasus around the end of the Ice Age, and shat them out, the seeds that is, in Denmark. This is the blackberries I eat with heavy cream for dinner every day in season. Called Rubus armenica, a huge mother! Big thorns, big stems, about 20 meters high, huge berries! That is a plant migration I highly approve of... Carol From piabinha@yahoo.com Thu Sep 8 16:58:40 2005 Message-Id: <20050908205840.38378.qmail@web51905.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: Hippeastrum traubii fm doraniania Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 13:58:40 -0700 (PDT) where can we find pics of this species? tsuh yang __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From Antennaria@aol.com Thu Sep 8 22:26:58 2005 Message-Id: <144.4ccb4ef5.30524ce8@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 22:26:48 EDT Matt Mattus mmattus@charter.net writes: Anyway, I live in Massachusetts, in a city that has recently counted over 200,000 Norway maples planted on it's streets. ======== I too live in Massachusetts, about 40 miles northwest of Boston. I have about 2 acres of land, 1 acre open and sunny, the other acre in deep woods, almost all of which is non-native Norway maple. Underneath, is a dense thicket of horribly spinny-thorned Berberis thunbergii, a Japanese plant that is very thorny and invasive. Systematically I'll cut down the berberis, and even cut down the huge old rotting Norway Maple and replace with native species, or even refined non-native species. I've been gardening here for 18 years, and a number of plants have shown to be horribly invasive, such as Campanula punctata and the allied korean C. takisimense.. my woodlands are now thick with them, and beyond. Ajuga has equal potential as being horribly invasive. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From dejager@bulbargence.com Fri Sep 9 09:51:34 2005 Message-Id: From: Lauw de Jager Subject: Watering fall bulbs Date: Fri, 09 Sep 2005 15:49:04 +0200 Dear Jim, When I leave Crocus sativus in the ground the first roots appear around 7-10 sept (even with a bare minimum of water) I assume that the optimum planting time is August, before the first rain storms appear. At the moment we are actually right in the middle of the late summerrain storms. The first flowers appear by the end of octobre and the full bloom is early November. Greetings from the south of France Lauw le 6/09/05 17:17, James Waddick à jwaddick@kc.rr.com a écrit : > Does this include watering for Saffron crocus? I am expecting > flowers soon, but also awaiting some more rain. Should I water? Lauw de Jager Bulb'Argence Mas d'Argence 30300 Fourques France tel 31(0)466 016 519 fax 0466 011 245 http://www.bulbargence.com From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Fri Sep 9 10:38:10 2005 Message-Id: <52857FDB394B7E45BA1F2E60D7313E2A0182BEFA@cbgmail.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2005 09:42:03 -0500 As Mark and Matt have pointed out, non-native species can wreck havoc if they escape into non-cultivated (and in Mark's case cultivated) areas. The efforts to control invasive species are much more complex than a simple ban on the importation/sale of certain species in a state. Basically, how do you eliminate all examples of an invasive species so that it can never invade natural areas again? At the national level, the revisions of the USDA Q-37 regulations will regulate the importation of plants and, in laymens terms, restrict plant importations to those taxa that are already proven non-invasive (or can be proven to be non-invasive - there is no current accurate methodology to do this for all of the microclimate habitats within the 50 United States and territories). A recent Transportation Bill up for approval in Congress mandated the removal of invasive species from all highway landscaping jobs and their replacement with 'approved' species. At the state level a number of states have imposed or are in the process of imposing restrictions on plants that can be imported or sold in their jurisdiction. At the botanic garden level, a number of botanic gardens have already removed or are being urged to remove all examples of invasive taxa from their permanent collections - as an example for the rest of society to follow. A best practices plan has been created by a select group of representatives of botanic garden, nursery industry, conservationist and public policy advocates but has only been adopted by two botanic gardens as of this date. Certainly, as Matt has pointed out, cities and townships will have a tremendous task if they choose or someday are mandated to remove invasive species from the landscapes under their care - this is not currently a provision of any of the state legislative efforts that I am aware of (let us hope that they are not replaced by another species planted in large monoculture stands). This leaves the existing plants in natural areas that will need to be controlled and those plants that are on private property. There are already enough propagules in the natural areas that it will take decades of intensive management before the last viable seed in the seedbank is eliminated - many of us will not see this in our lifetimes. Sadly, few natural areas have any plans in place to 'weed' their property of undesirably invasive species. It will take funding on a massive level to allocate the resources needed to monitor the nations' natural areas over decades to insure the last propagules in the seedbank are removed. Specimens on private property will pose a risk to re-establishment of additional plants in natural areas. Currently private property owners are being urged to voluntarily remove invasive species from their landscapes. Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Antennaria@aol.com Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 9:27 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Massachusetts Proposes Ban/Phase-Out of 140+ Plants Matt Mattus mmattus@charter.net writes: Anyway, I live in Massachusetts, in a city that has recently counted over 200,000 Norway maples planted on it's streets. ======== I too live in Massachusetts, about 40 miles northwest of Boston. I have about 2 acres of land, 1 acre open and sunny, the other acre in deep woods, almost all of which is non-native Norway maple. Underneath, is a dense thicket of horribly spinny-thorned Berberis thunbergii, a Japanese plant that is very thorny and invasive. Systematically I'll cut down the berberis, and even cut down the huge old rotting Norway Maple and replace with native species, or even refined non-native species. I've been gardening here for 18 years, and a number of plants have shown to be horribly invasive, such as Campanula punctata and the allied korean C. takisimense.. my woodlands are now thick with them, and beyond. Ajuga has equal potential as being horribly invasive. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From eagle85@flash.net Sat Sep 10 00:11:20 2005 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Email Loss Date: Fri, 09 Sep 2005 21:08:43 -0700 Sorry for your loss. It can seem "devastating"? Doug From dirtface@charter.net Sun Sep 11 06:55:56 2005 Message-Id: <49jvrm$5ah0du@mxip30a.cluster1.charter.net> From: "Sharon Muczynski" Subject: location, please Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2005 06:56:10 -0400 Hi to all, Please, for the sake of the readers who are not acquainted with everyone on the forum, post your location. It is very helpful after a well- written and descriptive post about how much success you have, to know where you live. I, who live in the humid southeastern US cannot hope to replicate what someone in NW California is doing, and wouldn't even try. However, if I am aware that you live in anything close to my climate, I might give it a grow :-). Sharon from Athens Ga. 7b From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Sep 11 11:58:47 2005 Message-Id: <43245435.6030209@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Acidanthera bicolor Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2005 11:58:45 -0400 Growing in a border near the lily pond. Labeled as Gladiolus murielae http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Acidanthera Arnold New Jersey From myke@new.co.za Sun Sep 11 22:38:00 2005 Message-Id: <00b301c5b743$058a9ff0$5070ef9b@mykecbcb148b69> From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" Subject: Lilium pumillum Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 04:25:35 +0200 Does anyone have any bulbs of Lilium pumilum that I can buy please? It's a particular favorite which doesn't seem to be available anymore in South Africa. From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Mon Sep 12 05:25:13 2005 Message-Id: <000f01c5b77b$c58f2400$435aa551@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: Lilium pumillum Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 11:24:27 +0200 Hello Myke, I know a supplier in Holland,they sale the lillium p.they cost 8?(9.86$)for 10p.I would buy them and send some to You,I don't know when they send the bulbs,but I letting it know.Maybe You have some bulbs to exchange?Do You find this a good idea?if so,then I order them. Kind Regards, Marie-Paule ----- Original Message ----- From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 4:25 AM Subject: [pbs] Lilium pumillum > Does anyone have any bulbs of Lilium pumilum that I can buy please? > It's a particular favorite which doesn't seem to be available anymore in South Africa. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Mon Sep 12 05:30:18 2005 Message-Id: <002001c5b77c$9653cff0$64dc8156@2CVEVE1> From: "Brian Whyer" Subject: Lilium pumillum Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 10:30:17 +0100 Myke If you don't have any luck with member offers, there are several UK nurseries that supply Lilium pumilum. Use the search facility on the RHS plant finder @ http://www.rhs.org.uk/rhsplantfinder/plantfinder.asp Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On > Behalf Of Myke Ashley-Cooper > Sent: 12 September 2005 03:26 > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] Lilium pumillum > > Does anyone have any bulbs of Lilium pumilum that I can buy please? > It's a particular favorite which doesn't seem to be available anymore in South > Africa. From jimmckenney@starpower.net Mon Sep 12 10:00:06 2005 Message-Id: <4d64t5$2gbk50@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lilium pumillum Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 09:59:59 -0400 Myke, have you given thought to the possibility of raising Lilium pumilum from seed? It is quick and easy from seed - sometimes they bloom within the first year of sowing. Seed is generally readily available from the lily exchanges. Furthermore, raising the plants from seed would get around the problem of acclimating the plants to the change in hemisphere. I'll be glad to help you find a seed source if this interests you. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Lilium pumilum tends to be short lived. From bligny.christophe@wanadoo.fr Mon Sep 12 15:49:15 2005 Message-Id: <002201c5b7d3$0bb7bb20$0d29000a@christop5n0dfb> From: "Christophe Bligny" Subject: introduction Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 21:49:10 +0200 Just few words to introduce myself.I'm executive-chef in a catering scholl with 1500 students in Paris France.I grew orchids during 20 years , and I've discovered a few years ago Pelargonium and Fuchsia .I like the beauty of botanics Pelargonium.I grow them actualy these spécies on my window : Pélargonium moliconum Pélargonium fulgidum Pélargonium trifolatum Pélargonium aestivale Pélargonium crithmifolum Pélargonium tetragonum Pélargonium sidoides Pélargonium ardens Pélargonium australe Pélargonium peltatum Pélargonium acetosum Pélargonium gibbosum Pélargonium cotyledonis Pélargonium splendide Pélargonium fruitosum Pélargonium carnosum Sarcocaulon venderietiae I found a real pleasure to grow them and think to realise my objectif to conserve the pods and bloom them of course for several years . I enjoy to need new friends and learn more and more things about Pelargonium. Christophe From msittner@mcn.org Mon Sep 12 16:28:42 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050912132142.02c199b0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Newspaper Article Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 13:26:15 -0700 Dear All, Our local newspaper, The Press Democrat in Santa Rosa, had an article this weekend encouraging people to grow bulbs appropriate for our area in Northern California. The writer interviewed Jana Ulmer and me. If anyone is interested, here is the link: http://www1.pressdemocrat.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20050910/NEWS/509100407/1237/LIFE Unfortunately most of the pictures were either misspelled or misidentified, but you can't tell this from the link as they aren't identified. I believe the pictures were taken in Jana's garden last spring. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From pekasky@earthlink.net Mon Sep 12 19:01:30 2005 Message-Id: <20239666.1126566088523.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Marilyn Pekasky Subject: Newspaper Article Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 19:01:28 -0400 (EDT) From dbarron@intcon.net Tue Sep 13 08:06:54 2005 Message-Id: <000601c5b85b$9ca9de00$2c062641@main> From: "Danny Barron" Subject: Sternbergia lutea division? Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 07:06:45 -0500 Some years ago (5 or so), I planted Sternbergia in a bed with light filtered shade (river birch that drops a lot of leaves in late summer) from April-Sept, but bright full sun otherwise. It's done quite well, however, the necks (and a good part of the full bulbs) are above ground level. I also believe the clumps could be divided as there are at least six growing points where I planted each bulb. My quandary is thus: I see that the barest tips of the new flowers are emerging now above the lip of the bulb. Would now be a good time to lift and separate or do you recommend that I wait till the foliage is almost gone in spring ? Danny Barron zone 6/7 in Oklahoma No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.23/99 - Release Date: 9/12/2005 From arnold@nj.rr.com Tue Sep 13 10:07:37 2005 Message-Id: <4326DC83.9080502@nj.rr.com> From: arnold trachtenberg Subject: sternbergia Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 10:04:51 -0400 Danny: I would move them just as the foliage dies back. I have moved some colchicums and this has worked well. It seems the best way to find them is just after the foliage matures and it has prevent the "sliced bulb syndrome" which can happen when digging around for a dormant bulb. Arnold New Jersey From john@johnlonsdale.net Tue Sep 13 10:19:46 2005 Message-Id: From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Sternbergia lutea division? Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 10:20:09 -0400 On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 07:06:45 -0500 "Danny Barron" wrote: >My quandary is thus: I see that the barest >tips of the new flowers are emerging now above the lip of >the bulb. Would now be a good time to lift and separate >or do you recommend that I wait till the foliage is >almost gone in spring ? Danny, Arnold's advice is good. You can also lift and divide and replant now, just make sure you don't damage and dry out any of the roots. I would maybe wait until they have finished flowering and do it then, just so you don't mess up this season's display. However, from you description it sounds like they'd be fine now anyway. A number of years ago Don Hackenberry sent me home from his garden with a number of freshly lifted, just finished flowering, Sternbergia sicula and they established perfectly. I'm going to lift and replant this clump shortly, they are just emerging now. On another Sternbergia note, I've been corresponding with Helmut Kerndorff about the Crocus biflorus taxa in Anatolia and he mentioned Sternbergia schubertii, a species he recently rediscovered. Is anyone growing this? Thanks, J. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Sep 13 11:56:13 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Sternbergia lutea division? Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 15:56:11 +0000 Dear Danny: Your Sternbergias must be moved immediately after flowering is over as bulbs protruding from the ground can't be more different than conditions for these plants in Nature. I have learnt a lot from Angleo Porcelli, a great guy from S. Italy and it was a surprise to learn that Sternbergia (and Pancratium, among many others) have their bulbs very deep in the ground, well over a foot or more. I subsequently adjusted my growing conditions for them and they have done a lot better. Regards Alberto Argentina, zone 9 in winter, zone 10 in summer, year round rains _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From dejager@bulbargence.com Tue Sep 13 13:10:41 2005 Message-Id: From: Lauw de Jager Subject: Sternbergia lutea division? Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 19:07:27 +0200 Danny, I cannot resist to present my experience on this subject as I have grown commercially since 1990 about 10000 bulbs of Sternbergia lutea angustifolia. In the early years multiplied by cutting the bulbs, which is done the end of June for planting out end of July. They need a sunny position from Sept-April. So I think that yours are ok where they are. However, I strongly disagree with the advise given to move the bulbs now. First roots emerge during August and are by now well developped, leaves will be out next week. The plant has already spent a part of its reserves will suffer by making new roots. Once a replanted some Sternbergia in Octobre which was disastrous as that that time the bulb has completely depleted its reserves. The best planting time is without any doubt from May until the middle of August. If your bulbs are now too close to the surface, you could for this season cover it with 10cm(4") of mulch (straw,compost etc.) and transplant the bulbs next May. I lift the bulbs every year by the end of April and replant early August, immediately covered wit a layer of straw. At the moment they are in full flowe which is rather an impresssive sight. I hope that this is of any help. Kind greetings Lauw de Jager > Some years ago (5 or so), I planted Sternbergia in a bed with light filtered > shade (river birch that drops a lot of leaves in late summer) from April-Sept, > but bright full sun otherwise. It's done quite well, however, the necks (and > a good part of the full bulbs) are above ground level. I also believe the > clumps could be divided as there are at least six growing points where I > planted each bulb. My quandary is thus: I see that the barest tips of the > new flowers are emerging now above the lip of the bulb. Would now be a good > time to lift and separate or do you recommend that I wait till the foliage is > almost gone in spring ? Lauw de Jager Bulb'Argence Mas d'Argence 30300 Fourques France (South of France, Medit. climate zone 8 tel 31(0)466 016 519 fax 0466 011 245 http://www.bulbargence.com From davidxvictor-0KLMCBKjoCf01gBdPK87iqDBhBMy5gm@mailblocks.com Tue Sep 13 14:30:07 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Photographs on the WIKI Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 19:20:59 +0100 Hi there everyone, I've added a photograph of a South African Gladiolus to the WIKI today. This was given to me some time ago as Gladiolus uysiae, but its clearly not the species. My current belief is that it is Gladiolus stefaniae, which it certainly looks like to me. In any event, as I'm not expert on Gladiolus, I have added it as Gladiolus species aff. stefaniae - if anyone can confirm or suggest an alternative, I'd be only too pleased to hear. You can find it in the M-Z part of South African Gladiolus under the above name at: http://pacificbulbsociety/org/pbswiki/index.php/Gladious Best regards, David Victor From msittner@mcn.org Tue Sep 13 14:51:50 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050913114822.02bf56c0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Photographs on the WIKI Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 11:49:49 -0700 Try this link for David Victor's picture: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Southern%20African%20Gladiolus%20M-Z I found the other link with Gladiolus misspelled took me to Lilium which was very strange. Mary Sue From dbarron@intcon.net Tue Sep 13 20:16:10 2005 Message-Id: <001e01c5b8c1$7ceaf8e0$1c062641@main> From: "Danny Barron" Subject: Sternbergia lutea division? Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 19:16:01 -0500 Alberto (and others that replied), thanks very much for your experiences. I went ahead and lifted two of largest of the six clumps of sternbergia that I have. These were within a foot of each other (when originally planted)...so you'd think conditions would be very similar. One clump had about 4 bulbs in it. One clump had about 25 bulbs in it (that was the one with bulbs on top of the soil). Needless to say, I divided them and replanted (with very little root damage I think...as the roots were only 4-5 inches and basically non-branched yet) somewhat deeper than originally. If in 5 years, all the divisions have multiplied like that ONE, I may be donating sternbergias somewhere. As it is, they're all most welcome in the garden. From previous years, I think only that one clump was mad to propagate (and the bulbs are of good size and do flower). Thanks Danny ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alberto Castillo" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2005 10:56 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Sternbergia lutea division? > Dear Danny: > Your Sternbergias must be moved immediately after > flowering is over as bulbs protruding from the ground can't be more > different than conditions for these plants in Nature. I have learnt a lot > from Angleo Porcelli, a great guy from S. Italy and it was a surprise to > learn that Sternbergia (and Pancratium, among many others) have their > bulbs very deep in the ground, well over a foot or more. I subsequently > adjusted my growing conditions for them and they have done a lot better. > > Regards > Alberto > Argentina, zone 9 in winter, zone 10 in summer, year round rains > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.23/99 - Release Date: 9/12/2005 From Antennaria@aol.com Tue Sep 13 21:43:02 2005 Message-Id: <13c.1b90a18e.3058da1b@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Roscoea cautleyoides Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 21:42:51 EDT I'm new to growing Roscoea, and this spring Roscoea cautleyoides bloomed beautifully from plants purchased the previous year. The flowers are soft yellow, and appear in long succession. The old foliage lengthened quite a bit, and fell over in the summer, yet remained green. I was surprised to find, just a few days ago, that Roscoea cautleyoides had 5-6 new bloom stalks each with 5-6 flowers, emerging from the crown of the plant. Does this species regularly rebloom in the late summer or fall? Do other Roscoea do this? Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From msittner@mcn.org Wed Sep 14 10:38:51 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050914071839.02f1cb00@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Photographs on the WIKI Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 07:37:30 -0700 Dear All, Both my husband and I thought Gladiolus carmineus when we looked at David's picture, but I suppose his Gladiolus could be a hybrid too. I looked both Gladiolus stefaniae and Gladiolus carmineus up in the Gladiolus in Southern Africa book. They are very similar in that they both flower in the fall before the leaves appear. Gladiolus stefaniae is described in that book as 2 to 4 flowered with brilliant scarlet or carmine flowers with a median white streak in the lower two-thirds. Gladiolus carmineus is described as 2-6 flowered with flowers pale to deep pink with the lower three tepals having a median whitish streak surrounded by a pale mauve halo, occasionally with the upper lateral tepals similarly marked. I haven't gotten G. stefaniae to bloom yet. Last year I got some bulbs from Telos, but my bet would be G. carmineus because of the color and the number of flowers that David says his has. The notes indicate some populations of G. stefaniae were once thought to be G. carmineus so others have confused the two. Hopefully we will hear from some of our South African list members. Speaking of G. carmineus, it is flowering all over my garden at the moment. It's got to be one of my favorite bulbs. It blooms in the fall when California gardens are a bit tired and it is so charming and dainty and able to survive my conditions without any care whatsoever. I let mine reseed about as I'm happy for it to naturalize and turn up in different places. It doesn't seem to be replacing anything. Instead of our usual Indian summer we sometimes have in the fall we are having a continuation of the early morning fog sometimes burning off later in the day. So I am appreciating the pink flowers here and there. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From merrill@gamblegarden.org Wed Sep 14 10:58:03 2005 Message-Id: <20050914145759.5093832C021@smtpauth01.csee.siteprotect.com> From: "Merrill Jensen" Subject: Roscoea cautleyoides Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 07:57:55 -0700 Hi Mark, I had a small collection of Roscoea while I was in Oregon. R. cautleyoides and R. auriculata rebloomed in 2002 and 2003. Unfortunately I was working on various projects that prevented me from really paying attention to what conditions may have contributed to them reblooming. It was one of those things, 'oh, the Roscoea are in bloom again...' I've not acquired any more since moving south, but they are on the list. For those of you that haven't tried these, I encourage you to. Be patient and mark them well, as they are one of the last plants out of the ground in the spring. Merrill in Palo Alto, CA, zone 9/10 where the Schizostylis coccinea are catching everyone's eye... Does this species regularly rebloom in the late summer or fall? Do other Roscoea do this? Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 From davidxvictor-07fMDBBzzCf0tRi91+dTTYy6vbFHttl@mailblocks.com Wed Sep 14 13:18:39 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Stenomesson variegatum Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 18:18:18 +0100 Hi there everyone, I've just put a couple of pictures of Stenomesson variegatum yellow form up on the WIKI. This is a strikingly handsome plant, standing 30 inches tall with yellow and green tubular flowers, from the high Andes. You can find the photos at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Stenomesson John Bryan in his magnum opus "Bulbs" mentions that some authorities regard the species as synonymous with Stenomesson luteo-viridis. Presumably, this form is the reason why as he goes on to say "..however, the latter (S. luteo-viridis) is described as having greenish-yellow flowers with distinct green keels, and as being shorter than others in this group". The first part is true, though I cannot say about the later part. Best regards, David Victor From aquaflorasa@telkomsa.net Wed Sep 14 16:15:30 2005 Message-Id: <016e01c5b969$08cf5fc0$67aaef9b@p7d1p2> From: "aquaflora" Subject: Iris louisiana Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 19:38:21 +0200 Hi group, I want to know if it is possible to induce flowering in louisiana irises during fall? Many thanks, Pieter South Africa From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Wed Sep 14 13:59:28 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050914195711.01d888d8@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: good googling Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 19:59:08 +0200 Talking today with a nice guy at the Copenhagen Botanic Gardens (asking him for Bowiea gariepensis), he gave me a very good googling tip: succulent and cactus plant mall (you can just copy that!) Gives you lots of new places to shop, I bet! Carol From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Wed Sep 14 14:28:13 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050914202626.01d8ba60@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: Hawaiian mystery Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 20:27:57 +0200 Perhaps you can help the Hawaiians to identify the plant on this website: http://members.tripod.com/Cactus_Hawaii/ Looks like a cactus. Carol From merrill@gamblegarden.org Wed Sep 14 15:18:06 2005 Message-Id: <20050914191732.D4BD632C01C@smtpauth01.csee.siteprotect.com> From: "Merrill Jensen" Subject: Hawaiian mystery Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 12:17:29 -0700 Looks like a Dasylirion berlandieri. Unfortunately there is no link on their site to let them know.... Merrill -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Carol Jensen Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 11:28 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Hawaiian mystery Perhaps you can help the Hawaiians to identify the plant on this website: http://members.tripod.com/Cactus_Hawaii/ Looks like a cactus. Carol _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Wed Sep 14 16:32:25 2005 Message-Id: <52857FDB394B7E45BA1F2E60D7313E2A0182BF30@cbgmail.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: Iris louisiana Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 15:36:21 -0500 Hi Pieter: I used to grow a number of cultivars and a few species. None of them produced a second set of flowers in the fall. Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of aquaflora Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 12:38 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Iris louisiana Hi group, I want to know if it is possible to induce flowering in louisiana irises during fall? Many thanks, Pieter South Africa _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From susanann@sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 15 01:10:57 2005 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: Hawaiian mystery Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 22:11:50 -0700 At 12:17 PM -0700 9/14/05, Merrill Jensen wrote: >Looks like a Dasylirion berlandieri. Unfortunately there is no link on their site to let them know.... **The website was last updated over 3 years ago. It's an old site. Maybe they've solved the mystery. -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b From Jamievande@freenet.de Thu Sep 15 03:59:31 2005 Message-Id: <000f01c5b9cc$2056bef0$6502a8c0@Jamie2> From: "Jamie" Subject: Iris louisiana Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 10:04:40 +0200 Pieter, if the plants are new arrivals from the opposite hemisphere, they may well bloom out of season. I have experienced this with plants imported from Australia. They have never repeated this performance and since bloom as expected, in the Spring. Possibly, one could induce Fall blooming in a greenhouse with adjusted light. For reference, the plants were sent to me in my Spring, the Autumn in Australia. They adjusted to my garden during the Summer and about 30% then produced spikes in September. These plants did not bloom the following Spring. Jamie V. Cologne ----- Original Message ----- From: "aquaflora" To: Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 7:38 PM Subject: [pbs] Iris louisiana > Hi group, > > I want to know if it is possible to induce flowering in louisiana irises > during fall? > > Many thanks, > > Pieter > South Africa > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From dkramb@badbear.com Thu Sep 15 10:14:01 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050915100832.01ca1200@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Iris louisiana Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 10:14:20 -0400 >I want to know if it is possible to induce flowering in louisiana irises >during fall? The only cases I've heard of this occurring were transplanting them from a warm climate to a cold climate during the fall. Established irises will not bloom in fall. With that said, I should point out that some newer cultivars out of Australia are rebloomers. But the vast majority of Louisiana Irises are not rebloomers. You can visit the Iris Haven website and search their list for the word "rebloom" to find a few of those new varieties. http://www.irishaven.com.au/ Dennis in Cincinnati From msittner@mcn.org Thu Sep 15 10:44:31 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050915073124.01e07cb0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Colchicum in bloom Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 07:41:00 -0700 Dear All, A year ago I bought some Colchicum blooms from Jane McGary. My only other experience with them was that some I planted in the ground never appeared. Since I was not sure that planting them in the ground again would work I tried some in the ground and some in my raised beds where they are planted in pots nestled in pots. I am happy to report that Colchicum x agrippinum bloomed last year and again this year in the raised beds. I saw in spring some foliage from the one I planted out, but it did not look as happy as the ones in the containers. Recently I was thrilled to see that Colchicum speciosum 'Album' was going to bloom. It didn't bloom last year. Mathew describes it as one of the best autumn bulbs for the garden and it is amazing. By the way, the foliage in the pictures is from a Babiana planted in that pot, not from the Colchicum. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Colchicum#speciosum Just what I need, another genus to want to grow. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From jshields@indy.net Thu Sep 15 11:19:41 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050915101323.00b08b48@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Colchicum in bloom Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 10:20:06 -0500 Hi all, It's interesting, Mary sue, that my Cochicum have just started to bloom too. C. byzantinum is blooming and one group of C. cilicicum has started flowering. Also have one hardy clump of Rhodophiala bifida in flower now too. The Lycoris are almost all gone; only L. caldwellii seem to be hanging on in bloom. Inside the greenhouse, one bulb of Haemanthus coccineus (out of many) is about to produce its first ever flower. These bulbs were grown from seed, and not a one has heretofore bloomed. Of course, this one may not make it all the way into full flower; so far only the rosy tips of the bracts are peeking out of the neck of the bulb. Only one of my four "reliable" Haemanthus barkerae is showing the tip of a bloom scape. I guess I should never have bragged how faithfully these four bulbs always flower for me! One of the larger bulbs of a batch of Haemanthus montanus that I bought from Dawie Human this year looks like it might be trying to start a scape. Wish me luck!!! Regards, Jim Shields in central Indiana ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu Sep 15 11:59:29 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050915085512.010aeaa8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Colchicum in bloom Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 08:59:24 -0700 Mary Sue wrote about colchicums received from me and how they are doing in her garden, which is in a warmer area than where I live. Apparently her C. x agrippinum flowers about the same time as mine, but C. speciosum 'Album' is perhaps 3 weeks earlier for her. I'm not sure why colchicums would do better for her in pots than in the ground. In my experience, these are the most adaptable bulbous genus imaginable, flowering for years in apparently inhospitable conditions. One clone of C. x agrippinum that I grow came from an old garden where repeated flooding had buried the bulbs under 18 inches of silt, and they were still alive, though very attenuated. In just one year in better conditions, they were magnificent. Most of the colchicums around here in old gardens seem to be the Dutch speciosum x bivonae hybrids from early in the 20th century, which increase well vegetatively but set little if any seed. Their only problem is that slugs eat the flowers and, to some extent, the leaves. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From steve.burger@choa.org Thu Sep 15 12:20:18 2005 Message-Id: <0BAB7B6F7D5A53418C3B75FA01DE2BED0938B077@CHOAMAIL4.choa.org> From: "Burger, Steve" Subject: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 12:16:03 -0400 How does this bulb perform in the heavy soils and moisture of the SE USA? Steve From jimmckenney@starpower.net Thu Sep 15 12:40:20 2005 Message-Id: <4d4i7n$2eg526@smtp01.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 12:40:19 -0400 Steve, where in SE USA are you? Jim McKenney From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu Sep 15 12:50:54 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Colchicum in bloom Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 16:50:52 +0000 Dear Jane: Although conditions here in the pampas are a lot warmer than in N. California or Oregon, my experience with Colchicums has been the same than Mary Sue's: they thrive with good drainage and rot if for any reason are in wet soil for a time. It is great to know that one more genus is thriving in your beds, Mary Sue. There is enough Colchicum material in the trade, both cultivars and species to assemble a fine collection. Best Alberto _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From Theladygardens@aol.com Thu Sep 15 12:55:04 2005 Message-Id: <1d4.4465fdf1.305b015e@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Iris louisiana Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 12:54:54 EDT There are some re blooming L A iris but as Dennis has said, most are not. They are coming from US hybridizers as well as Australia. At the time you purchase them you find out if they are remondant. In the future, look for known re-bloomers to purchase. Of course, while looking you will see gorgeous photos of non re blooming iris you really want. I plant the re bloomers together in areas of the garden where I can treat them differently. After the first or regular bloom is finished, you continue watering and fertilizing more so than with the others. To try and force a non-re blooming iris would confuse the plant, if you succeed, it would also weaken the plant for next years bloom. Among the bearded hybridized iris there are lots of re blooming iris now. I have over 100 in my garden. Carolyn in Los GAtos, CA with over 1000 irises. From jimmckenney@starpower.net Thu Sep 15 13:26:59 2005 Message-Id: <4d4i7n$2eh0lq@smtp01.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Colchicum in bloom Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 13:26:56 -0400 A warning for those of you who are trying to grow Colchicum in the sour, damp, summer-warm soils of the east coast of North America: they will rot during the summer. They'll be fine if you can keep the soil reasonable dry or if the site is well drained and the soil itself is readily permeable. But warm, damp, small particle soils are a death trap for them. I know of no extensive, established, perennial plantings of Colchicum here in the Washington, D.C. area. There are certain sites in my garden where some persist without help. Some cultivars are more tolerant of our conditions than others, and might form the basis of such permanent plantings. Two which in my experience persist are the plant widely marketed as Giant or The Giant (although it does not agree with my reading of Bowles' description of that cultivar) and another which I received as C. byzantinum (but it is not the true byzantinum). Even these will not make it if planted in the fusarium pit (thank you, Vicky B, for that metaphor). Jane mentioned that slugs will eat the flowers and leaves. Here, they also eat the corms. Any corm left on the surface of the ground is soon gouged. Furthermore, the slugs use the convenient tube formed by the dried foliage bundle to get down to the dormant corms. So unless your pockets are deep and you don't mind replacing your plants often, these are hardly carefree plants in our climate. I grow those Colchicum I have in short supply in a raised bed which is covered with a glass pane during the summer. This works well. Any extras go into the garden, where they typically gradually disappear. Mary Sue's photos of Colchicum speciosum 'Album' prompt some comments. Notice that the tepals of the flowers in those photographs are still in "tulip formation". That is the way one often seed this plant illustrated in books, and it's a very good look. It's much hotter here in Maryland, and when this plant first bloomed here years ago I was very disappointed. Why? Because the flowers did not look anything like those I had seen in books. In fact, the flowers looked like a white-flowered version of the big cultivar Lilac Wonder. The tepals were spread out flat, and that emphasized their narrow, strap like shape - and it made the flowers look more like a starfish that a tulip. You have to get up early in the morning here in Maryland to see the "tulip formation" - the blooms here quickly open out flat. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the early Colchicum are blooming. From ang.por@alice.it Thu Sep 15 13:42:39 2005 Message-Id: <001401c5ba1a$c841d200$0346b650@h7o1x9> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: Hawaiian mystery - OT Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 19:27:43 +0200 Sorry to contradict Merrill, but I am rather used to these plants and I am pretty sure it isn't a Dasylirion at all, neither a Yucca. More likely is a Dracaena. best regards Angelo Porcelli Italy From dkramb@badbear.com Thu Sep 15 13:45:55 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050915134551.01c0d888@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 13:46:14 -0400 At 12:16 PM 9/15/2005, you wrote: >How does this bulb perform in the heavy soils and moisture of the SE USA? > >Steve Not quite SE USA, but this species performs great for me in Cincinnati. Dennis in Cincy From steve.burger@choa.org Thu Sep 15 13:54:42 2005 Message-Id: <0BAB7B6F7D5A53418C3B75FA01DE2BED0938B081@CHOAMAIL4.choa.org> From: "Burger, Steve" Subject: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 13:53:27 -0400 Great, I think you're wet enough in the summer to be like me. Your soils hold a lot of moisture too, correct? I'm not concerned about heat, they grow plenty of these in Arizona, so I should be good. Thanks, Steve -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Dennis Kramb Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 01:46 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Tulipa saxitilis At 12:16 PM 9/15/2005, you wrote: >How does this bulb perform in the heavy soils and moisture of the SE USA? > >Steve Not quite SE USA, but this species performs great for me in Cincinnati. Dennis in Cincy _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From dkramb@badbear.com Thu Sep 15 14:14:35 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050915135931.01c5cba8@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 14:14:54 -0400 At 01:53 PM 9/15/2005, you wrote: >Great, I think you're wet enough in the summer to be like me. Your soils >hold a lot of moisture too, correct? I'm not concerned about heat, they >grow plenty of these in Arizona, so I should be good. Hmm... I would say my soil is not very moisture retentive. It is sandy, and so fast draining. They tend to wither quickly if we have a hot dry spell in spring (unusual). Dennis in Cincy (growing T. saxitilis for 5 yrs now). From aquaflorasa@telkomsa.net Thu Sep 15 16:08:43 2005 Message-Id: <033b01c5ba31$42e4c560$acabef9b@p7d1p2> From: "aquaflora" Subject: Iris louisiana Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 20:34:26 +0200 Hi Boyce, Jamie & Dennis, Thanks for your input! I was hoping that there would be some kind of chemical treatment or that I could put them in the refrigerator for a few weeks? Thanks, Pieter (South Africa) From horstmann@absamail.co.za Thu Sep 15 14:54:43 2005 Message-Id: <007401c5ba26$ed308230$a44b27c4@user6acb610e94> From: "Alan Horstmann" Subject: Fw: Gladiolus carmineus Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 20:53:55 +0200 Hello all, David Victor's gladiolus is Gladiolus carmineus as suspected by Mary Sue. Regards, Alan Horstmann From jimmckenney@starpower.net Thu Sep 15 16:45:12 2005 Message-Id: <4d64t5$2hqr8i@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 16:45:10 -0400 Dennis wrote: "Not quite SE USA, but this species performs great for me in Cincinnati." Dennis, are you sure it is Tulipa saxatilis you have and not Tulipa bakeri 'Lilac Wonder'? I'm asking this because Tulipa saxatilis has never been a success here in my Maryland garden. The foliage, which is generally fully developed by early winter, is almost always completely destroyed during the winter unless protected. Last winter for the first time I brought through a full clutch of Tulipa saxatilis foliage by covering it carefully during the worst of the winter. We do not have reliable snow cover during the coldest weeks of the winter when temperatures can drop to between zero to ten above F. I've seen 'Lilac Wonder', a slightly bigger but otherwise similar plant in local gardens, and have been told that it is fully hardy and reliable in this area. Has anyone else had long range success with undoubted Tulipa saxatilis as a garden plant in the middle-Atlantic states, north-eastern states or adjacent Canada? And does my impression about the better hardiness and reliability of Tulipa bakeri 'Lilac Wonder' as a garden plant agree with the observations of others? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, probably not much like Crete. From dkramb@badbear.com Thu Sep 15 17:12:19 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050915171010.01b43b00@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 17:12:39 -0400 >Dennis, are you sure it is Tulipa saxatilis you have and not Tulipa bakeri >'Lilac Wonder'? Hmmm... all I can say is that I bought it as T. saxatilis, so you could very well be right. Dennis in Cincy From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Thu Sep 15 17:34:45 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050915233256.01d19ed0@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: Colchicum in bloom Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 23:34:23 +0200 At 19:26 15-09-2005, Jim McKenney wrote: >Jane mentioned that slugs will eat the flowers and leaves. Here, they also >eat the corms. Any corm left on the surface of the ground is soon gouged. >Furthermore, the slugs use the convenient tube formed by the dried foliage >bundle to get down to the dormant corms. > >Jim McKenney Jim, sprinkle NemaSlug around your corms and the slugs will die. I use it for the Iberian slug, known as the Killer Slug in Denmark! Carol From arnold@nj.rr.com Thu Sep 15 18:09:48 2005 Message-Id: <4329F12A.2030409@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: COLCHICUMS in wet summer Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 18:09:46 -0400 I have grown about thirty different colchicums in wet humid summers here in New Jersey about 100 miles north of Jim M. I have planted them in garden soil augmented with at least 50% grit by volume. The drainage is excellent and they have multiplied nicely. It seems the flowers are more robust as time goes by with more and larger blooms on most. The foliage persists in the first part of the summer dying back around late June to July. I cover the bare ground in fall after blooms have all faded with evergreen boughs over dried leaves to hold them in place. I usually don't water the area in summers but we get a good amount of rain fall, except for this year. The drought has prevented the falling over of the blooms which is possibly one of the only draw backs to growing colchicums other than the large cabbage like foliage which comes up in spring. Arnold New Jersey From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu Sep 15 19:57:31 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050915165507.0110dd78@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 16:57:23 -0700 Regarding the query, > >Dennis, are you sure it is Tulipa saxatilis you have and not Tulipa bakeri > >'Lilac Wonder'? > >Hmmm... all I can say is that I bought it as T. saxatilis, so you could >very well be right. I recently viewed both these species and the similar T. cretica in Crete, and one of the experts in the group I was with commented that some authorities believe they should be regarded as a single species. Their habitats are a bit different -- T. "bakeri" is out in flat valley fields, and T. "saxatilis" on rocky hills and ledges. Those in the valley are big and showy. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From jimmckenney@starpower.net Thu Sep 15 21:09:43 2005 Message-Id: <4d64t5$2htoj3@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 21:09:40 -0400 Jane McGary, in mentioning " that some authorities believe they [Tulipa saxatilis and T. bakeri] should be regarded as a single species" has anticipated a comment which I have been preparing. If they are considered to be a single species, and especially if the name chosen for that species is to be Tulipa saxatilis, we should not lose track of the circumstance that the plants in cultivation now and known respectively as Tulipa saxatilis and T. bakeri 'Lilac Wonder' are, from a horticultural perspective, different plants. The plant traditionally known as Tulipa saxatilis is evidently triploid and almost certainly a clone. In other words, nowhere in the world is there a sexually reproducing population of Tulipa saxatilis. To put it differently, you cannot raise Tulipa saxatilis from seed fertilized by another triploid Tulipa saxatilis. I was about to write that you cannot raise Tulipa saxatilis from seed. But you presumably can get Tulipa saxatilis to set viable seed by pollinating it with tetraploid pollen, but the resulting seedlings will not be Tulipa saxatilis. The only exception to this would occur if one were somehow able to convert triploid Tulipa saxatilis to a tetraploid, and then do the cross: in that case, all of the genetic material involved would have come from Tulipa saxatilis. There is no reason to believe that is happening in the wild, or that it has ever happened. Some of you may wonder why anyone would care about this. Here is one reason: the history of horticulture if full of situations where an original named clone has been supplanted by similar non-clonal material. Unfortunately, the rules of nomenclature sometimes abet this problem. Here's an example: At the end of the nineteenth century, when it was fashionable for amateur hybridizers to give their hybrids Latin names (that practice is now a no-no), Commander Baden-Powell (he of Boy Scout fame) raised a hybrid martagon lily which he named Lilium dalhansonii (because it was a cross of the lily then known as Lilium martagon dalmaticum and Lilium hansonii). For purposes of this discussion, let's assume that the original Lilium dalhansonii was a clone. According to the modern interpretation of the rules of nomenclature, this name Lilium x dalhansonii is the legitimate name for all hybrids of Lilium martagon cattaniae (one current nomenclatural take on the old name Lilium martagon dalmaticum) and Lilium hansonii. So when you hear the term "Lilium dalhansonii", to what does it refer? Does it refer to the original, presumably clonal plant raised by Baden-Powell? Or does it refer to a subsequent hybrid of similar ancestry (and incidentally which may not look anything like the original)? There is the added complication that others repeated Baden-Powell's cross and got similar plants. These similar plants got into commerce under the name Lilium dalhansonii. Can anyone say with certainty which of these plants is the one originally raised by Baden-Powell? Can it be said with certainty that his plant even survives? I don't think so. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the name suggests that Tulipa saxatilis should be a good rock garden plant; does the name Tulipa bakeri mean that that tulip would be good roasted - no, no, that's probably Amana edulis. From davidxvictor-0rTAGBJAHCv0FefAIGFjDw7FksyHt0u@mailblocks.com Fri Sep 16 06:02:48 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Mystery lily from China Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 11:01:56 +0100 Dear all, I have posted a photograph of a lily that I saw in Yunnan earlier this year to the "mystery bulbs" page of the WIKI at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs To me, it looks close to Lilium nepalense. However, according to the various reference books that I have, that species only grows on the other side of the Himalaya. Can anyone give me a better name for the plant? My thanks in advance for your help. Incidentally, my thanks also goes to Alan Horstmann for his identification of my gladiolus as G. carmineus Best regards, David Victor From davidxvictor-0okkGBPgHCv0cKQGEDLAlcK6vHXRBim@mailblocks.com Fri Sep 16 07:49:00 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Lilies in China Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 12:48:07 +0100 Dear all, I was lucky enough this year to spend July botanising in Yunnan, western China. This is a mountainous area, rising to around 20,000 feet at its highest and stretching along the Burmese border up to Tibet, cut through by three great rivers, the Mekong, Salween and Yangtse. It accommodates some 16,000 species of plants and is the home of many of our garden plants. These were mainly collected by the great plant hunters of the 19th and early 20th century: French missionaries such as David, Delavay, Farges and Soulie, then their commercial successors Wilson, Forrest and, to a lesser extent, Kingdom Ward and Rock. I was part of a group led by Professor Sun Weibang of Kunming Botanical Garden. We travelled from Kunming in the south-east, through Dali to Liuku near the Burmese border, then north through Jianchuan and Zhongdian to Benzilan in the north-west. Mountain areas visited included Gaoligongshan, Xiaosueshan, Habashan and Baimashan. Along the way, we found a number of members of the lily family and I have added a number of pictures of them to the WIKI. Amongst the genus Lilium there were two turk's caps, L. duchartrei and L. taliense and one trumpet lily, L. sargentiae. These can be found at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Lilium We also found Nomocharis aperta, surely one of the most beautiful of all bulbs and this can be seen at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Nomocharis Last, but by no means least in this feast of plants, we found Notholirion bulbiferum, which can be seen at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Notholirion Enjoy! Best regards, David Victor From arnold@nj.rr.com Fri Sep 16 14:05:47 2005 Message-Id: <432B08D3.1040306@nj.rr.com> From: arnold trachtenberg Subject: Lilies in China Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 14:02:59 -0400 David: If you don't mind I can forward your image to the lily group for a possible ID. Arnold From myke@new.co.za Fri Sep 16 14:08:48 2005 Message-Id: <00e601c5bae9$b72fb2f0$0100007f@mykecbcb148b69> From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" Subject: Seeds Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 20:07:34 +0200 Heard about the alien that lands in a wildly unkempt garden and shouts, "Take me to your seeder!"? From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Sat Sep 17 07:51:54 2005 Message-Id: <6.2.3.4.0.20050917214032.0314fb10@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Email Loss - Belated thanks Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 21:50:44 +1000 Howdy All, Sorry for the delay but a belated Thank You to all my friends who emailed me both publicly and privately to provide their email addresses so that I can get in contact. I have been unwell the last few weeks and basically off-line so I have not responded to anyone as yet. I will try to respond to everyone in turn but thought I would at least give a quick explanation here as to why you haven't heard back from me after my appeal. It might take me a while to get through all the responses, and that is providing my health holds up! Thanks again to those friends who provided your email addresses. My address book looks much healthier now than it did immediately after the hard drive crash. Any of my regular contacts who haven't emailed me please do so as I no longer have your addresses to email you. Apologies for duplication of this message but I will send it to a few of the lists that I originally asked on. Thanks for your patience. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia - USDA Zone Equivalent approx. 8/9 Growing an eclectic collection of plants from all over the world including Aroids, Crocus, Cyclamen, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Galanthus, Irises, Trilliums (to name but a few) and just about anything else that doesn't move!! From johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk Sat Sep 17 11:40:40 2005 Message-Id: <00d301c5bb9e$2615d8c0$bcac403e@John> From: Subject: Mystery lily from China Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 13:47:38 +0100 David Your lily is certainly one of the L. nepalense group. Stephen Haw in his 'Lilies of China' considers that L. nepalense is represented in China by var. burmanicum and var. ochranthum, formerly treated as vars. of L. primulinum (e.g. in Woodcock & Stearn, 'Lilies of the World'). Such plants are sometimes imported as L. majoense, which is a synonym of var. ochraceum. Haw gives a useful account & I refer you to him! John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Victor" To: Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 11:01 AM Subject: [pbs] Mystery lily from China > Dear all, > > I have posted a photograph of a lily that I saw in Yunnan earlier this year > to the "mystery bulbs" page of the WIKI at: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs > > To me, it looks close to Lilium nepalense. However, according to the > various reference books that I have, that species only grows on the other > side of the Himalaya. Can anyone give me a better name for the plant? My > thanks in advance for your help. From dells@voicenet.com Sat Sep 17 08:49:24 2005 Message-Id: <20050917124924.111C64C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: FW: Orders from BX 101 Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 08:49:34 -0400 _____ From: Dell Sherk [mailto:dells@voicenet.com] Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 8:28 AM To: 'The PBS BX' Subject: Orders from BX 101 Dear All, I have been overwhelmingly busy with my real job lately and neglected to inform those people who ordered from BX 101 about the status of their orders. All orders went out more than a week ago. Supplies were short, so quite a few requests could not be filled. If you have not received your packages yet, please assume that I was unable to send you anything. This does not apply to non-US orders which may still be in transit. Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, Director, PBS BX From johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk Sat Sep 17 11:40:42 2005 Message-Id: <00d401c5bb9e$276aba60$bcac403e@John> From: Subject: Lilium x dalhansonii Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 13:55:11 +0100 I shoulds just like to correct a point made by Jim McKenney: the breeder of the lovely Lilium x dalhansonii (first flowered 1890) was one C. Baden Powell, not Robert BP the founder of the Scouts, who would have been serving in India at the time. Incidentally, if one ever wants a good laugh, the first edition of 'Scouting for Boys' is hilariously absurd, giving good advice on how to tell a man's character from how he wears his hat, etc. It's incredible that the man was ever taken seriously. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP From silverhill@yebo.co.za Sat Sep 17 12:10:03 2005 Message-Id: <00dd01c5bba1$36366370$0100a8c0@SERVER> From: "Rachel Saunders" Subject: problems with sending seeds to the USA Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 18:01:56 +0200 Dear All, I need some information please if someone can help. For the last 3 or 4 years, we have been sending seed into the USA using a fairly simple system. We wait until we have 10 US orders, then get 1 phytosanitary certificate covering all species in the orders, and send the orders in 1 large box with the 1 phyto to my brother in Chicago. When the box arrives, he posts the orders for me. This has worked extremely well until recently. In the last 4 months, 2 boxes have disappeared. They have never re-appeared. So this time I decided to contact the USDA and ask if they had it. They told me that they did not. Then, by some very strange coincidence, 2 days later my brother was notified that they did in fact have the box, and they were sending it back to me. The reason for this is: "You cannot include items that require treatment as a form of entry with items that do not require treatment. Also phyto must include the variety of sp. "Aloe sp." is not sufficient". On the phyto we have always put Lachenalia species, Moraea species, etc instead of listing every single species (which is tedious!) and until now this has been acceptable. I can obviously get round this problem - I will have to list every species which is tedious but possible. And the 2nd problem is the treatment of seeds. Is there a list that the USDA issues telling one which seeds need treatment and which do not? I am now in a state as the whole system seems to have fallen apart and I am not sure what to do. Has anyone heard that the regulations have changed? What is the position about import permits? Do you all have to have import permits for seeds, or can you import small quantities without permits? I remember reading a while ago that the requirement for phytosanitary certificates for hobbyists may be disappearing. I assume that this has not happened? I am now sitting here with 15 orders waiting to be sent to the USA, and I don't know how to send them or what to do with them! Does this mean the end of seed for you all??!! Regards Rachel Saunders Silverhill Seeds Tel +27 21 762 4245 Fax +27 21 797 6609 PO Box 53108, Kenilworth, 7745 South Africa From irisman@ameritech.net Sat Sep 17 12:50:44 2005 Message-Id: <000601c5bba7$efb44af0$5ad8fea9@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 32, Issue 19 ---mystery lily Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 11:32:56 -0500 Hello David. I am not a lily specialist, but L. nepalense is indicated as being in Yunnan, according to the posting, photo and information posted at Pacific Rim. I was waiting for Paige to say somethng,, but thought I'd add a bit here. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 11:00 AM Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 32, Issue 19 > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Lilies in China (arnold trachtenberg) > 2. Seeds (Myke Ashley-Cooper) > 3. Re: Email Loss - Belated thanks (Paul Tyerman) > 4. FW: Orders from BX 101 (Dell Sherk) > 5. Re: Mystery lily from China (johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk) > 6. Lilium x dalhansonii (johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 14:02:59 -0400 > From: arnold trachtenberg > Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilies in China > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <432B08D3.1040306@nj.rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed > > David: > > If you don't mind I can forward your image to the lily group for a > possible ID. > > Arnold > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 20:07:34 +0200 > From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" > Subject: [pbs] Seeds > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: <00e601c5bae9$b72fb2f0$0100007f@mykecbcb148b69> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Heard about the alien that lands in a wildly unkempt garden and shouts, > "Take me to your seeder!"? > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 21:50:44 +1000 > From: Paul Tyerman > Subject: Re: [pbs] Email Loss - Belated thanks > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.0.20050917214032.0314fb10@pop.ozemail.com.au> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > Howdy All, > > Sorry for the delay but a belated Thank You to all my friends who > emailed me both publicly and privately to provide their email > addresses so that I can get in contact. I have been unwell the last > few weeks and basically off-line so I have not responded to anyone as > yet. I will try to respond to everyone in turn but thought I would > at least give a quick explanation here as to why you haven't heard > back from me after my appeal. It might take me a while to get > through all the responses, and that is providing my health holds up! > > > Thanks again to those friends who provided your email addresses. My > address book looks much healthier now than it did immediately after > the hard drive crash. Any of my regular contacts who haven't emailed > me please do so as I no longer have your addresses to email you. > > Apologies for duplication of this message but I will send it to a few > of the lists that I originally asked on. Thanks for your patience. > > Cheers. > > Paul Tyerman > Canberra, Australia - USDA Zone Equivalent approx. 8/9 > > Growing an eclectic collection of plants from all over the world > including Aroids, Crocus, Cyclamen, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, > Galanthus, Irises, Trilliums (to name but a few) and just about > anything else that doesn't move!! > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 08:49:34 -0400 > From: "Dell Sherk" > Subject: [pbs] FW: Orders from BX 101 > To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" > Message-ID: <20050917124924.111C64C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > > > _____ > > From: Dell Sherk [mailto:dells@voicenet.com] > Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 8:28 AM > To: 'The PBS BX' > Subject: Orders from BX 101 > > > > Dear All, > > > > I have been overwhelmingly busy with my real job lately and neglected to > inform those people who ordered from BX 101 about the status of their > orders. All orders went out more than a week ago. Supplies were short, so > quite a few requests could not be filled. If you have not received your > packages yet, please assume that I was unable to send you anything. This > does not apply to non-US orders which may still be in transit. > > > > Best wishes, > > Dell > > > > Dell Sherk, Director, PBS BX > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 13:47:38 +0100 > From: > Subject: Re: [pbs] Mystery lily from China > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: <00d301c5bb9e$2615d8c0$bcac403e@John> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > David > > Your lily is certainly one of the L. nepalense group. Stephen Haw in his > 'Lilies of China' considers that L. nepalense is represented in China by > var. burmanicum and var. ochranthum, formerly treated as vars. of L. > primulinum (e.g. in Woodcock & Stearn, 'Lilies of the World'). Such plants > are sometimes imported as L. majoense, which is a synonym of var. > ochraceum. > Haw gives a useful account & I refer you to him! > > John Grimshaw > > > Dr John M. Grimshaw > Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens > > Sycamore Cottage > Colesbourne > Nr Cheltenham > Gloucestershire GL53 9NP > > Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "David Victor" > To: > Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 11:01 AM > Subject: [pbs] Mystery lily from China > > >> Dear all, >> >> I have posted a photograph of a lily that I saw in Yunnan earlier this > year >> to the "mystery bulbs" page of the WIKI at: >> >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs >> >> To me, it looks close to Lilium nepalense. However, according to the >> various reference books that I have, that species only grows on the other >> side of the Himalaya. Can anyone give me a better name for the plant? >> My >> thanks in advance for your help. > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 13:55:11 +0100 > From: > Subject: [pbs] Lilium x dalhansonii > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: <00d401c5bb9e$276aba60$bcac403e@John> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > I shoulds just like to correct a point made by Jim McKenney: the breeder > of > the lovely Lilium x dalhansonii (first flowered 1890) was one C. Baden > Powell, not Robert BP the founder of the Scouts, who would have been > serving > in India at the time. Incidentally, if one ever wants a good laugh, the > first edition of 'Scouting for Boys' is hilariously absurd, giving good > advice on how to tell a man's character from how he wears his hat, etc. > It's > incredible that the man was ever taken seriously. > > John Grimshaw > > > > Dr John M. Grimshaw > Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens > > Sycamore Cottage > Colesbourne > Nr Cheltenham > Gloucestershire GL53 9NP > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 32, Issue 19 > *********************************** From davidxvictor-0wfgHBDwTCv0ihj//lrwIWO2yERIHwi@mailblocks.com Sat Sep 17 14:28:20 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Lloydia Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 19:27:58 +0100 Dear all, I've added a couple of photographs of the genus Lloydia to the WIKI. This is a small member of the lily family, found around the Northern Hemisphere, with small, but quite attractive plants. Both of the shots I have added were taken in the wild, one of L. serotina in Kazakhstan and one of L. longiscapa in Yunnan, China. You can see them both at http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Lloydia My thanks to Mary Sue for being so kind as to add the genus to the index on my behalf. Best regards, David Victor From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat Sep 17 15:09:09 2005 Message-Id: <4d64t5$2imcgu@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lilium x dalhansonii Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 15:09:08 -0400 Thanks for the correction, John. I've been telling that story for decades, and you are the first person to point out that I've had my Baden-Powells mixed up. I rather liked the idea of General Baden Powell, First Baron of Gilwell, having a lily-loving side, even if he was comically paranoid. Next you'll probably try to tell me that Crocus korolkowii really isn't named for General Korolkov, but rather for some cousin who stayed home, wrote mushy novels and never learned to ride a horse. Now if I can just get the several Backhouses straight: which one did Colchicum speciosum 'Album', which one did daffodils, which one did martagon hybrid lilies, which one did snowdrops... About twenty-five years ago, when I first took an interest in hybrid martagon lilies, I searched around here in the Washington, D.C. area for persons growing these. While having a lily talk with a local grower who is British by birth, the conversation came around to martagons, the old Backhouse hybrids and a once formidable local grower by the name of Bacas. My friend started to imitate those people who drop their aitches and pronounce Backhouse so that it sounds a lot like Bacas, and I came away from the conversation a bit confused. So it's not just the Baden-Powells I have mixed up. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I was kicked out of the Boy Scouts before I even got in (that is, as a Cub Scout). I guess my "hat language" was saying bad things about me. From arnold@nj.rr.com Sat Sep 17 16:21:53 2005 Message-Id: <432C7ADF.9060706@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Colchicum loving ants Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 16:21:51 -0400 Often wondered what attached the ants to swarm over colchicum blooms. Took a close up photo of Colchicum 'Princess Astrid' this morning and enlarged it and there were that ants feasting upon nectaries deep within the blooms. Took a very high resolution image ( 8M) so didn't lose much detail when enlarged. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/ColchicumHybrids Arnold New Jersey From arlen.jose@verizon.net Sat Sep 17 18:16:52 2005 Message-Id: From: "arlen jose" Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 18:16:47 -0400 Hello All, I just wanted to know if any body else in the other parts of the U.S. (zones 7, 6 and 5) have had any luck with the hybrids of Nerine sarnienses. I was poking around in the garden and I noticed that the Nerine I planted last year not only survived but are in the process of sending up spikes. I have had Nerine bowdenii for many years without any problems, except for it's notorious habit of blooming quite late and sometimes being nipped by an early frost. I'm quite curious what color these will be and also to hear if any one else has experienced this rather beautiful late season charmer in their "colder" gardens. Warm Regards, Fred Biasella Cambridge (Boston) MA USDA Zone 6b From Theladygardens@aol.com Sat Sep 17 20:18:16 2005 Message-Id: <209.998358e.305e0c44@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Colchicum loving ants Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 20:18:12 EDT Great picture, thanks for sharing it! Carolyn From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat Sep 17 21:21:53 2005 Message-Id: <4d4i7n$2fjl2a@smtp01.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 21:21:48 -0400 Fred, I'm intrigued by your comments. I've always assumed that the main reason that Nerine bowdenii does as well as it does here in the esat is that it produces its foliage in the spring and it's there and growing all summer. When the cold weather arrives, the foliage dies but the underground bulbs survive and - we all hope - bloom. The Nerine sarniensis hybrids I've had have all been winter growers. And in my experience, the foliage is not at all freeze tolerant. Planted outside for the winter, the foliage attempts to grow but gets cut back with each heavy freeze - and I'm several hundred miles south of you. Amaryllis belladonna shows the same growth pattern - and although its foliage seems to be a bit more cold tolerant, it's not cold tolerant enough to survive even a mild winter exposed to the air here. Sooner or later there will be a cold snap which takes it down to the ground again. I hope you will be able to post a picture of this Nerine sarniensis hybrid which survived the winter for you - and that there will be an experienced Nerine enthusiast out there who will be able to identify it. Now let's change topics a bit. I have a Nerine sarniensis hybrid here which is grown as a pot plant. It's been outside all summer kept as dry as possible and roasting in the sun. Although it has not been watered for months, it seems to be producing new foliage. Should I start watering it now? Last year I think it bloomed in late October and November. Any comments anyone? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where in a good year there is a Nerine echo of the Lycoris season. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of arlen jose Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 6:17 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Hello All, I just wanted to know if any body else in the other parts of the U.S. (zones 7, 6 and 5) have had any luck with the hybrids of Nerine sarnienses. I was poking around in the garden and I noticed that the Nerine I planted last year not only survived but are in the process of sending up spikes. I have had Nerine bowdenii for many years without any problems, except for it's notorious habit of blooming quite late and sometimes being nipped by an early frost. I'm quite curious what color these will be and also to hear if any one else has experienced this rather beautiful late season charmer in their "colder" gardens. Warm Regards, Fred Biasella Cambridge (Boston) MA USDA Zone 6b _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From arnold@nj.rr.com Sat Sep 17 22:20:51 2005 Message-Id: <432CCF01.6050207@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 22:20:49 -0400 Jim: My Nerine hybrids were the result of a bulb rescue a couple of years ago through the IBS. I keep them indoors and when I see a green tip appearing I give a good drink and wait until grow starts in earnest. I water when they dry out. They seem to be relatively sturdy bulbs and have crowded the five inch clay pot. Haven't tried them outside due to the conditions that you described. Arnold New Jersey From jshields@indy.net Sun Sep 18 08:15:30 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050918071016.01f45a40@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 07:15:56 -0500 Jim, Arnold, Fred, and all, I've had miserable luck with a batch of different named Nerine sarniensis hybrids that a friend gave me several years ago. I have tried keeping them in the greenhouse, dry, through summer, with very poor results. Out of a dozen or more different hybrids I was given, I have only 6 left alive. I tried keeping them outdoors, under a bench in the lath house, through summer. One year, that worked great! I had the only flowers I have seen on these after that summer. The next summer, leaving them outside under the bench in the lath house was the same as leaving them in the greenhouse over summer -- serious deterioration. I didn't participate in the rescue because I had had such poor luck with these things. I really don't know how to grow sarniensis hybrids here. A couple hybrids do well here -- 'Pink Triumph' is one that is healthy in a pot here over summer, although it does not bloom. 'Nikita' is a bowdenii selection that also does well. 'Pink Triumph' is sterile, but 'Nikita' is fertile and I have seedlings from it. Regards, Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Sep 18 09:12:25 2005 Message-Id: <432D67B6.8050801@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 09:12:22 -0400 Jim: Mine have flowered well for the past three years. They spend their dormant period in the basement on the sill of a basement window. I would say the temp is relatively constant and definitely a damp atmosphere. As I stated previously when I see a bit of green I give a good drink and place under a HID light. Arnold From msittner@mcn.org Sun Sep 18 11:21:11 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050918073054.02b2c3f0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Nerine sarniensis Hybrids plus Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 08:19:04 -0700 Dear All, Congratulations to Fred for getting his Nerine not only to survive, but to bloom in the ground in Massachusetts. Well done. I've said this before, but when I participated in the bulb rescue I had very poor luck at first with most all of my Nerines except for one that looks more like a species. It has been my most reliable bloomer, but usually has only one scape of small pink flowers. This year it has three vigorous ones. Tag says (Wombe X Carmenita) Harold Koopowitz gave us some instructions. One was not to plant in the ground. I had more than I wanted to put in pots so I did try two in the ground. I've seen the leaves, but they have never flowered so I think I have proved Harold was right. We've talked about growing Nerines in the past on this list. I'd like to refer any of you who were not part of this list when Nerine was the topic of the week to review Hamish Sloan's very excellent introductions. He really covered it well and with such obvious affection for this genus. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2003-April/002727.html http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2003-April/002744.html Following Hamish's advice of making sure the soil does not dry out completely in summer as then the buds abort sounds like what Arnold is doing. When I left mine completely dry once they went dormant only a couple would bloom. This year after leaving mine in the greenhouse to protect from our excessive wet winters and leaving them in the greenhouse to provide some warmth in summer and watering every couple weeks during dormancy eight of eleven are blooming or going to bloom. The other three could still bloom since they usually bloom in October, but even if they don't, it is still more success than I have ever had! So many of us have learned not to let them dry out completely in summer!!! If I could use html I'd underline that last statement. Also blooming right now are Nerine humilis, Nerine platypetala and Nerine angustifolia. And I have buds on Nerine bowdenii and my Nerine undulata x flexuosa (all one species now so probably not a cross anymore). At least this year I can say I am now having better luck with this South African amaryllid than any of the others. I've rotted a number of my Cyrtanthus, but it is my second most successful genus. C. sanguineus is blooming at the moment and it is so beautiful. One of my rescue bulbs which is red had a broken tag. I could only read part of two words: Bett.. Hud.. Does anyone know what the cultivar name should be? And Bob and I are rejoicing in seeing Bessera elegans in bloom for the first time. Wow! I got some from Diana Chapman. Year number one they bloomed when we were out of the country. Jana Ulmer took pictures for the wiki. Year number two they didn't come up. Year number three one came up and the first bloom opened yesterday. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From irisman@ameritech.net Sun Sep 18 12:15:40 2005 Message-Id: <000e01c5bc6c$1311a320$5ad8fea9@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 32, Issue 20 Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 11:14:40 -0500 Hello Mary Sue. I only got the first two items on the index for this issue, followed by the contents for Issue 19. ??? Adam in Glenview IL. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2005 10:21 AM Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 32, Issue 20 > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. problems with sending seeds to the USA (Rachel Saunders) > 2. Re: pbs Digest, Vol 32, Issue 19 ---mystery lily (Adam Fikso) > 3. Lloydia (David Victor) > 4. Re: Lilium x dalhansonii (Jim McKenney) > 5. Colchicum loving ants (Arnold Trachtenberg) > 6. Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids (arlen jose) > 7. Re: Colchicum loving ants (Theladygardens@aol.com) > 8. Re: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids (Jim McKenney) > 9. Re: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids (Arnold Trachtenberg) > 10. Re: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids (J.E. Shields) > 11. Re: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids (Arnold Trachtenberg) > 12. Nerine sarniensis Hybrids plus (Mary Sue Ittner) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 18:01:56 +0200 > From: "Rachel Saunders" > Subject: [pbs] problems with sending seeds to the USA > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: <00dd01c5bba1$36366370$0100a8c0@SERVER> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" > > Dear All, > I need some information please if someone can help. > For the last 3 or 4 years, we have been sending seed into the USA using a > fairly simple system. We wait until we have 10 US orders, then get 1 > phytosanitary certificate covering all species in the orders, and send the > orders in 1 large box with the 1 phyto to my brother in Chicago. When the > box arrives, he posts the orders for me. > This has worked extremely well until recently. In the last 4 months, 2 > boxes have disappeared. They have never re-appeared. So this time I > decided > to contact the USDA and ask if they had it. They told me that they did > not. > Then, by some very strange coincidence, 2 days later my brother was > notified > that they did in fact have the box, and they were sending it back to me. > The reason for this is: > > "You cannot include items that require treatment as a form of entry with > items that do not require treatment. Also phyto must include the variety > of > sp. "Aloe sp." is not sufficient". > > On the phyto we have always put Lachenalia species, Moraea species, etc > instead of listing every single species (which is tedious!) and until now > this has been acceptable. I can obviously get round this problem - I > will > have to list every species which is tedious but possible. > And the 2nd problem is the treatment of seeds. Is there a list that the > USDA > issues telling one which seeds need treatment and which do not? > > I am now in a state as the whole system seems to have fallen apart and I > am > not sure what to do. Has anyone heard that the regulations have changed? > What is the position about import permits? Do you all have to have import > permits for seeds, or can you import small quantities without permits? I > remember reading a while ago that the requirement for phytosanitary > certificates for hobbyists may be disappearing. I assume that this has not > happened? > > I am now sitting here with 15 orders waiting to be sent to the USA, and I > don't know how to send them or what to do with them! Does this mean the > end > of seed for you all??!! > Regards > Rachel Saunders > Silverhill Seeds > Tel +27 21 762 4245 > Fax +27 21 797 6609 > PO Box 53108, Kenilworth, 7745 South Africa > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 11:32:56 -0500 > From: "Adam Fikso" > Subject: Re: [pbs] pbs Digest, Vol 32, Issue 19 ---mystery lily > To: > Message-ID: <000601c5bba7$efb44af0$5ad8fea9@FAMILY> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > Hello David. I am not a lily specialist, but L. nepalense is indicated as > being in Yunnan, according to the posting, photo and information posted at > Pacific Rim. I was waiting for Paige to say somethng,, but thought I'd > add > a bit here. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 11:00 AM > Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 32, Issue 19 > > >> Send pbs mailing list submissions to >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> >> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to >> pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org >> >> You can reach the person managing the list at >> pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org >> >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >> than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." >> >> >> Today's Topics: >> >> 1. Re: Lilies in China (arnold trachtenberg) >> 2. Seeds (Myke Ashley-Cooper) >> 3. Re: Email Loss - Belated thanks (Paul Tyerman) >> 4. FW: Orders from BX 101 (Dell Sherk) >> 5. Re: Mystery lily from China (johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk) >> 6. Lilium x dalhansonii (johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk) >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> Message: 1 >> Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 14:02:59 -0400 >> From: arnold trachtenberg >> Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilies in China >> To: Pacific Bulb Society >> Message-ID: <432B08D3.1040306@nj.rr.com> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed >> >> David: >> >> If you don't mind I can forward your image to the lily group for a >> possible ID. >> >> Arnold >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 2 >> Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 20:07:34 +0200 >> From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" >> Subject: [pbs] Seeds >> To: "Pacific Bulb Society" >> Message-ID: <00e601c5bae9$b72fb2f0$0100007f@mykecbcb148b69> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >> >> Heard about the alien that lands in a wildly unkempt garden and shouts, >> "Take me to your seeder!"? >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 3 >> Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 21:50:44 +1000 >> From: Paul Tyerman >> Subject: Re: [pbs] Email Loss - Belated thanks >> To: Pacific Bulb Society >> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.0.20050917214032.0314fb10@pop.ozemail.com.au> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >> >> Howdy All, >> >> Sorry for the delay but a belated Thank You to all my friends who >> emailed me both publicly and privately to provide their email >> addresses so that I can get in contact. I have been unwell the last >> few weeks and basically off-line so I have not responded to anyone as >> yet. I will try to respond to everyone in turn but thought I would >> at least give a quick explanation here as to why you haven't heard >> back from me after my appeal. It might take me a while to get >> through all the responses, and that is providing my health holds up! >> >> >> Thanks again to those friends who provided your email addresses. My >> address book looks much healthier now than it did immediately after >> the hard drive crash. Any of my regular contacts who haven't emailed >> me please do so as I no longer have your addresses to email you. >> >> Apologies for duplication of this message but I will send it to a few >> of the lists that I originally asked on. Thanks for your patience. >> >> Cheers. >> >> Paul Tyerman >> Canberra, Australia - USDA Zone Equivalent approx. 8/9 >> >> Growing an eclectic collection of plants from all over the world >> including Aroids, Crocus, Cyclamen, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, >> Galanthus, Irises, Trilliums (to name but a few) and just about >> anything else that doesn't move!! >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 4 >> Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 08:49:34 -0400 >> From: "Dell Sherk" >> Subject: [pbs] FW: Orders from BX 101 >> To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" >> Message-ID: <20050917124924.111C64C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> >> >> >> >> _____ >> >> From: Dell Sherk [mailto:dells@voicenet.com] >> Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 8:28 AM >> To: 'The PBS BX' >> Subject: Orders from BX 101 >> >> >> >> Dear All, >> >> >> >> I have been overwhelmingly busy with my real job lately and neglected to >> inform those people who ordered from BX 101 about the status of their >> orders. All orders went out more than a week ago. Supplies were short, so >> quite a few requests could not be filled. If you have not received your >> packages yet, please assume that I was unable to send you anything. This >> does not apply to non-US orders which may still be in transit. >> >> >> >> Best wishes, >> >> Dell >> >> >> >> Dell Sherk, Director, PBS BX >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 5 >> Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 13:47:38 +0100 >> From: >> Subject: Re: [pbs] Mystery lily from China >> To: "Pacific Bulb Society" >> Message-ID: <00d301c5bb9e$2615d8c0$bcac403e@John> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >> >> David >> >> Your lily is certainly one of the L. nepalense group. Stephen Haw in his >> 'Lilies of China' considers that L. nepalense is represented in China by >> var. burmanicum and var. ochranthum, formerly treated as vars. of L. >> primulinum (e.g. in Woodcock & Stearn, 'Lilies of the World'). Such >> plants >> are sometimes imported as L. majoense, which is a synonym of var. >> ochraceum. >> Haw gives a useful account & I refer you to him! >> >> John Grimshaw >> >> >> Dr John M. Grimshaw >> Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens >> >> Sycamore Cottage >> Colesbourne >> Nr Cheltenham >> Gloucestershire GL53 9NP >> >> Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "David Victor" >> To: >> Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 11:01 AM >> Subject: [pbs] Mystery lily from China >> >> >>> Dear all, >>> >>> I have posted a photograph of a lily that I saw in Yunnan earlier this >> year >>> to the "mystery bulbs" page of the WIKI at: >>> >>> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs >>> >>> To me, it looks close to Lilium nepalense. However, according to the >>> various reference books that I have, that species only grows on the >>> other >>> side of the Himalaya. Can anyone give me a better name for the plant? >>> My >>> thanks in advance for your help. >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 6 >> Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 13:55:11 +0100 >> From: >> Subject: [pbs] Lilium x dalhansonii >> To: "Pacific Bulb Society" >> Message-ID: <00d401c5bb9e$276aba60$bcac403e@John> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >> >> I shoulds just like to correct a point made by Jim McKenney: the breeder >> of >> the lovely Lilium x dalhansonii (first flowered 1890) was one C. Baden >> Powell, not Robert BP the founder of the Scouts, who would have been >> serving >> in India at the time. Incidentally, if one ever wants a good laugh, the >> first edition of 'Scouting for Boys' is hilariously absurd, giving good >> advice on how to tell a man's character from how he wears his hat, etc. >> It's >> incredible that the man was ever taken seriously. >> >> John Grimshaw >> >> >> >> Dr John M. Grimshaw >> Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens >> >> Sycamore Cottage >> Colesbourne >> Nr Cheltenham >> Gloucestershire GL53 9NP >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> >> >> End of pbs Digest, Vol 32, Issue 19 >> *********************************** > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 19:27:58 +0100 > From: David Victor > Subject: [pbs] Lloydia > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > Dear all, > > I've added a couple of photographs of the genus Lloydia to the WIKI. This > is a small member of the lily family, found around the Northern > Hemisphere, > with small, but quite attractive plants. Both of the shots I have added > were taken in the wild, one of L. serotina in Kazakhstan and one of L. > longiscapa in Yunnan, China. > > You can see them both at > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Lloydia > > My thanks to Mary Sue for being so kind as to add the genus to the index > on > my behalf. > > Best regards, > David Victor > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 15:09:08 -0400 > From: "Jim McKenney" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilium x dalhansonii > To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" > Message-ID: <4d64t5$2imcgu@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Thanks for the correction, John. I've been telling that story for decades, > and you are the first person to point out that I've had my Baden-Powells > mixed up. > > I rather liked the idea of General Baden Powell, First Baron of Gilwell, > having a lily-loving side, even if he was comically paranoid. Next you'll > probably try to tell me that Crocus korolkowii really isn't named for > General Korolkov, but rather for some cousin who stayed home, wrote mushy > novels and never learned to ride a horse. > > Now if I can just get the several Backhouses straight: which one did > Colchicum speciosum 'Album', which one did daffodils, which one did > martagon > hybrid lilies, which one did snowdrops... > > About twenty-five years ago, when I first took an interest in hybrid > martagon lilies, I searched around here in the Washington, D.C. area for > persons growing these. While having a lily talk with a local grower who is > British by birth, the conversation came around to martagons, the old > Backhouse hybrids and a once formidable local grower by the name of Bacas. > My friend started to imitate those people who drop their aitches and > pronounce Backhouse so that it sounds a lot like Bacas, and I came away > from > the conversation a bit confused. > > So it's not just the Baden-Powells I have mixed up. > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I was kicked out of > the > Boy Scouts before I even got in (that is, as a Cub Scout). I guess my "hat > language" was saying bad things about me. > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 16:21:51 -0400 > From: Arnold Trachtenberg > Subject: [pbs] Colchicum loving ants > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <432C7ADF.9060706@nj.rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Often wondered what attached the ants to swarm over colchicum blooms. > Took a close up photo of Colchicum 'Princess Astrid' this morning and > enlarged it and there were that ants feasting upon nectaries deep within > the blooms. Took a very high resolution image ( 8M) so didn't lose much > detail when enlarged. > > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/ColchicumHybrids > > Arnold > New Jersey > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 18:16:47 -0400 > From: "arlen jose" > Subject: [pbs] Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > > Hello All, > > I just wanted to know if any body else in the other parts of the U.S. > (zones > 7, 6 and 5) have had any luck with the hybrids of Nerine sarnienses. I was > poking around in the garden and I noticed that the Nerine I planted last > year not only survived but are in the process of sending up spikes. > > I have had Nerine bowdenii for many years without any problems, except for > it's notorious habit of blooming quite late and sometimes being nipped by > an > early frost. > > I'm quite curious what color these will be and also to hear if any one > else > has experienced this rather beautiful late season charmer in their > "colder" > gardens. > > Warm Regards, > Fred Biasella > Cambridge (Boston) MA > USDA Zone 6b > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 20:18:12 EDT > From: Theladygardens@aol.com > Subject: Re: [pbs] Colchicum loving ants > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <209.998358e.305e0c44@aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > Great picture, thanks for sharing it! > Carolyn > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 21:21:48 -0400 > From: "Jim McKenney" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids > To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" > Message-ID: <4d4i7n$2fjl2a@smtp01.mrf.mail.rcn.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > Fred, I'm intrigued by your comments. > > I've always assumed that the main reason that Nerine bowdenii does as well > as it does here in the esat is that it produces its foliage in the spring > and it's there and growing all summer. When the cold weather arrives, the > foliage dies but the underground bulbs survive and - we all hope - bloom. > > The Nerine sarniensis hybrids I've had have all been winter growers. And > in > my experience, the foliage is not at all freeze tolerant. Planted outside > for the winter, the foliage attempts to grow but gets cut back with each > heavy freeze - and I'm several hundred miles south of you. > > Amaryllis belladonna shows the same growth pattern - and although its > foliage seems to be a bit more cold tolerant, it's not cold tolerant > enough > to survive even a mild winter exposed to the air here. Sooner or later > there > will be a cold snap which takes it down to the ground again. > > I hope you will be able to post a picture of this Nerine sarniensis hybrid > which survived the winter for you - and that there will be an experienced > Nerine enthusiast out there who will be able to identify it. > > Now let's change topics a bit. I have a Nerine sarniensis hybrid here > which > is grown as a pot plant. It's been outside all summer kept as dry as > possible and roasting in the sun. Although it has not been watered for > months, it seems to be producing new foliage. > > Should I start watering it now? Last year I think it bloomed in late > October > and November. > > Any comments anyone? > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where in a good year there > is > a Nerine echo of the Lycoris season. > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of arlen jose > Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 6:17 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids > > Hello All, > > I just wanted to know if any body else in the other parts of the U.S. > (zones > 7, 6 and 5) have had any luck with the hybrids of Nerine sarnienses. I was > poking around in the garden and I noticed that the Nerine I planted last > year not only survived but are in the process of sending up spikes. > > I have had Nerine bowdenii for many years without any problems, except for > it's notorious habit of blooming quite late and sometimes being nipped by > an > early frost. > > I'm quite curious what color these will be and also to hear if any one > else > has experienced this rather beautiful late season charmer in their > "colder" > gardens. > > Warm Regards, > Fred Biasella > Cambridge (Boston) MA > USDA Zone 6b > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 22:20:49 -0400 > From: Arnold Trachtenberg > Subject: Re: [pbs] Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <432CCF01.6050207@nj.rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Jim: > > My Nerine hybrids were the result of a bulb rescue a couple of years ago > through the IBS. I keep them indoors and when I see a green tip > appearing I give a good drink and wait until grow starts in earnest. I > water when they dry out. They seem to be relatively sturdy bulbs and > have crowded the five inch clay pot. Haven't tried them outside due to > the conditions that you described. > > Arnold > New Jersey > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 07:15:56 -0500 > From: "J.E. Shields" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20050918071016.01f45a40@pop.indy.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > Jim, Arnold, Fred, and all, > > I've had miserable luck with a batch of different named Nerine sarniensis > hybrids that a friend gave me several years ago. I have tried keeping > them > in the greenhouse, dry, through summer, with very poor results. Out of a > dozen or more different hybrids I was given, I have only 6 left alive. > > I tried keeping them outdoors, under a bench in the lath house, through > summer. One year, that worked great! I had the only flowers I have seen > on these after that summer. The next summer, leaving them outside under > the bench in the lath house was the same as leaving them in the greenhouse > over summer -- serious deterioration. > > I didn't participate in the rescue because I had had such poor luck with > these things. I really don't know how to grow sarniensis hybrids here. > > A couple hybrids do well here -- 'Pink Triumph' is one that is healthy in > a > pot here over summer, although it does not bloom. 'Nikita' is a bowdenii > selection that also does well. 'Pink Triumph' is sterile, but 'Nikita' is > fertile and I have seedlings from it. > > Regards, > Jim Shields > > > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 09:12:22 -0400 > From: Arnold Trachtenberg > Subject: Re: [pbs] Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <432D67B6.8050801@nj.rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Jim: > > Mine have flowered well for the past three years. They spend their > dormant period in the basement on the sill of a basement window. I > would say the temp is relatively constant and definitely a damp > atmosphere. As I stated previously when I see a bit of green I give a > good drink and place under a HID light. > > > Arnold > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 08:19:04 -0700 > From: Mary Sue Ittner > Subject: [pbs] Nerine sarniensis Hybrids plus > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.2.20050918073054.02b2c3f0@mail.mcn.org> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > Dear All, > > Congratulations to Fred for getting his Nerine not only to survive, but to > bloom in the ground in Massachusetts. Well done. > > I've said this before, but when I participated in the bulb rescue I had > very poor luck at first with most all of my Nerines except for one that > looks more like a species. It has been my most reliable bloomer, but > usually has only one scape of small pink flowers. This year it has three > vigorous ones. Tag says (Wombe X Carmenita) > > Harold Koopowitz gave us some instructions. One was not to plant in the > ground. I had more than I wanted to put in pots so I did try two in the > ground. I've seen the leaves, but they have never flowered so I think I > have proved Harold was right. > > We've talked about growing Nerines in the past on this list. I'd like to > refer any of you who were not part of this list when Nerine was the topic > of the week to review Hamish Sloan's very excellent introductions. He > really covered it well and with such obvious affection for this genus. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2003-April/002727.html > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2003-April/002744.html > > Following Hamish's advice of making sure the soil does not dry out > completely in summer as then the buds abort sounds like what Arnold is > doing. When I left mine completely dry once they went dormant only a > couple > would bloom. This year after leaving mine in the greenhouse to protect > from > our excessive wet winters and leaving them in the greenhouse to provide > some warmth in summer and watering every couple weeks during dormancy > eight > of eleven are blooming or going to bloom. The other three could still > bloom > since they usually bloom in October, but even if they don't, it is still > more success than I have ever had! So many of us have learned not to let > them dry out completely in summer!!! If I could use html I'd underline > that > last statement. > > Also blooming right now are Nerine humilis, Nerine platypetala and Nerine > angustifolia. And I have buds on Nerine bowdenii and my Nerine undulata x > flexuosa (all one species now so probably not a cross anymore). At least > this year I can say I am now having better luck with this South African > amaryllid than any of the others. I've rotted a number of my Cyrtanthus, > but it is my second most successful genus. C. sanguineus is blooming at > the > moment and it is so beautiful. > > One of my rescue bulbs which is red had a broken tag. I could only read > part of two words: Bett.. Hud.. Does anyone know what the cultivar name > should be? > > And Bob and I are rejoicing in seeing Bessera elegans in bloom for the > first time. Wow! I got some from Diana Chapman. Year number one they > bloomed when we were out of the country. Jana Ulmer took pictures for the > wiki. Year number two they didn't come up. Year number three one came up > and the first bloom opened yesterday. > > Mary Sue > > Mary Sue Ittner > California's North Coast > Wet mild winters with occasional frost > Dry mild summers > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 32, Issue 20 > *********************************** > From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sun Sep 18 12:27:20 2005 Message-Id: <4d4i7n$2fqvdo@smtp01.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 12:27:18 -0400 Jim, can you explain what you mean by serious deterioration? For instance, are the bulbs themselves deteriorating? Or do the bulbs survive but in diminished size? What is the condition of the roots? When you say that plants kept in the greenhouse dry gave poor results, do you mean poor results in terms of bloom, poor bulb size, or poor results in terms of overall plant quality, or what? It was an older post of yours which prompted me to bring up the Nerine question again. I would so much like to succeed with these plants. The one I have produces long-lasting flowers the color of cream mixed with blackberries - very nice. Tell us more about your experiences, please. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where my Nerine are still in bake/broil mode. From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sun Sep 18 12:29:37 2005 Message-Id: <4d4i7n$2fr002@smtp01.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 12:29:36 -0400 Arnold, is you house air-conditioned? Maybe relatively cool temperature during dormancy is the answer. I'll let everyone know if the plants I'm currently baking go on to bloom. Jim McKenney From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Sep 18 13:10:16 2005 Message-Id: <432D9F75.3020104@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 13:10:13 -0400 Jim: No central air conditioning here. They are in the basement where it gets pretty damp in the summer due to the stone wall foundation and lack of air movement. The bulb due shrink down a little but soon bulk up with water. It may be a good idea to give a sprinkle of water during the summer. Kind of like the old wine cellar. Winter is a bit different with the steam pipes from the heating system, even though insulated it gets warm. Arnold From BBCNURSERY@aol.com Sun Sep 18 13:12:41 2005 Message-Id: <12b.65998bed.305efa07@aol.com> From: BBCNURSERY@aol.com Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 13:12:39 EDT My N sarniense 'Cerry Ripe' is in bud. They are grown in pots in my "African House", an outbuilding with nearly full sun and no exhaust ventilation. They are kept absolutely dry during dormancy, and just above freezing in Winter. It is strange the way every year just a few of each clone budup. One would expect that if the conditions are right most would flower. Greig Warner Vancouver, WA Z8 (?) Lately it seems like 9 or 10! From ConroeJoe@aol.com Sun Sep 18 15:00:51 2005 Message-Id: <1a2.3c3fccd9.305f135e@aol.com> From: ConroeJoe@aol.com Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 32, Issue 20 Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 15:00:46 EDT Hi Gang, I guess it is Lycoris aurea, but I can't remember when I planted it, or where I got it. I just noticed the scape today, about 24 inches tall, peeking up between some azaleas. I'm glad I planted and will take better note of it this next year. I do remember trading some bulbs with friends, and planting them here and there in the flower and shrub beds. One big disappointment has been Lycoris squamigera. The plants grow well enough, but in 4 years about 15-20 bulbs have put out only 1 or 2 bloom stalks. I think winter is just too warm here; winter lows have been about 23-25 F, and then only once or twice a winter. In addition to some other odds and ends of Lycoris, and the ever present L. radiata, I have L. springeri. It sat for a couple of years, and then bloomed this past year; maybe it will repeat soon. Who knows, this may be the fall the L. squamigera put out a show. Cordially, Conroe Joe No rain for a while, 95 F for, still warm evenings Formosa lily blooming again along with some Crinum, including C. asiaticum and a xdigweedii-type. From kevinpreuss@bellsouth.net Sun Sep 18 15:23:59 2005 Message-Id: <005601c5bc86$85215180$6101a8c0@Hymenocallis> From: "Kevin Preuss" Subject: test Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 15:23:58 -0400 Thanks Mary Sue for helping out w/ the change. Can I go to the PBS homepage to join/make payment arrangement? Now That I have moved I hope to get caught up on my neat things! Very Best, Kevin Preuss Amaryllis-Plus Bulb Co. Brooksville, FL www.amaryllis-plus.com From jshields@indy.net Sun Sep 18 15:36:47 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050918143147.01f36e10@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 14:37:09 -0500 Jim McK., By deterioration, I meant rotted or dried up bulbs, as well as most of the surviving bulbs barely able to make any foliage in late autumn. No flowers at all. <> All of the above! The rescued nerine hybrids were from a greenhouse in Oregon. I doubt I could manage to reproduce any of those conditions here in central Indiana, one of the reasons I did not accept any of the rescued bulbs. Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Sun Sep 18 18:40:06 2005 Message-Id: <6.2.3.4.0.20050919083207.031535c0@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Problems with digest 19 within digest 20 Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 08:39:57 +1000 At 02:14 AM 19/09/2005, you wrote: >Hello Mary Sue. I only got the first two items on the index for this >issue, followed by the contents for Issue 19. ??? Adam in Glenview IL. > Adam, It is because when you respond to a digest email you leave the whole email there, so that you then receive that complete digest within the next digest (you just did it again, so you'll now get digest 19 within digest 20 (as you commented), all now in digest 21 in the same way). If you delete the remains of the digest when you respond, instead of just replying, typing your response at the top and then sending... you'll then not have the previous digest included in it as well. It is just a matter or deleting the rest of the email when you respond, instead of including it within the email with your comments. By the way.... if you got down to the end of your email is digest 20 (i.e the end of the digest 19 bit) you'll discover the rest of the emails that you are "missing". They are just included there in sequence after your email. I'll also email you this privately as I doubt that you will actually see this email, because it will now be in sequence behind your email re the extra digest insert.... and now you'll have both digests inserted above it. I'm just writing this to the list as well in case anyone else is wondering the same thing. I hope this is a help. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia - USDA Zone Equivalent approx. 8/9 Growing an eclectic collection of plants from all over the world including Aroids, Crocus, Cyclamen, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Galanthus, Irises, Trilliums (to name but a few) and just about anything else that doesn't move!! From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun Sep 18 18:47:20 2005 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 17:53:37 -0500 > >I guess it is Lycoris aurea, Dear Joe; Don't know where you live, but if it colder than Zone 9 or 10, it is not L. aurea. >One big disappointment has been Lycoris squamigera. This species does badly in mild zones. If you are warmer than 7 it probably will not perform well. Does that put you squarely in Zone 8? >In addition to some other odds and ends of Lycoris, and the ever present L. >radiata, I have L. springeri. If Lycoris are planted planted later than August, dry and rootless, they can take 2 to 3 years to recover and bloom. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From eez55@earthlink.net Sun Sep 18 22:47:51 2005 Message-Id: <412005911924640240@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 22:46:40 -0400 I lived in central Pennsylvania, my experience with T. saxatilis was pretty much the same as Jim's. Bellefonte, PA is on the border of z5 and z6, with unreliable snow cover. The bulbs disappeared after about three years, but I did get some sparse bloom in the second year. This seemed to be more related to a dry summer than to a mild winter. I suspect the combination of wet summers and foliage destroying winters is what did them in. T. bakeri "Lilac Wonder" was a different story altogether. Like normal tulips, these bulbs waited till spring to throw up foliage and bloomed reliably every year. (They were planted about six feet from the saxatilis.) In my opinion, it's a better looking plant - more stocky with larger flowers. It didn't increase much, though, and neither T. bakeri nor T. saxatilis set any seed. Now that I'm living in Georgia, I'm going to try T. saxatilis again - in pots, for now. Incidentally, I second Sharon M's suggestion that we list our geographic locations, preferably after our signatures. We're a pretty diverse/dispersed group. I suggest listing a city (and/or county?) and state, at least for those living in the US. Eugene Zielinski Augusta, Georgia > > Message: 12 > > Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 16:45:10 -0400 > > From: "Jim McKenney" > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Tulipa saxitilis > > To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" > > Message-ID: <4d64t5$2hqr8i@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > Dennis wrote: "Not quite SE USA, but this species performs great for me in > > Cincinnati." > > > > Dennis, are you sure it is Tulipa saxatilis you have and not Tulipa bakeri > > 'Lilac Wonder'? > > > > I'm asking this because Tulipa saxatilis has never been a success here in my > > Maryland garden. The foliage, which is generally fully developed by early > > winter, is almost always completely destroyed during the winter unless > > protected. Last winter for the first time I brought through a full clutch of > > Tulipa saxatilis foliage by covering it carefully during the worst of the > > winter. > > From mmattus@charter.net Sun Sep 18 23:02:36 2005 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 23:02:34 -0400 I have had relatively good luck with Nerine sarniensis, which may be changing as Jim warned me a few years ago,.although I am interested in the comment about additional moisture during the dormant period. I have found that I now get about 40% blooming, out of my 100 or so bulbs. I added about 35 named N. sarniensis last year from Springbank Nurseries in England, who hold the National Collection. I traditionally water mine well around the time that I water the rest of my South African bulbs, when the night time temperatures here in Massachusetts are cool around the beginning of September, and the first blooms arrive around mid-October. I lost three bulbs this year that I can tell so far after cleaning them up. This year I let my bulbs go dryer than usual, in fact they spent an incredibly hot summer on a high bench with no water at all in the greenhouse in full sun. I still see no sign of buds, so stay tuned, but it has been three weeks since first watering, and it has warmed up again. I tried a few years back planting some in an alpine raised wall along side the greenhouse, they never made it through the winter. A lonely N bowdenii has survived but has yet to bloom. I would love to try some species of Nerine, have others found them easier or more rewarding? Matt Mattus Worcester, MA USDA zone 5 From mmattus@charter.net Sun Sep 18 23:15:28 2005 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 23:15:20 -0400 I double checked a culture sheet that arrived with some bulbs from Nerwchurch Nerines in England last year, and her is what it said.... "Watering - Too much watering will damage the roots. If in doubt, do not water. During a hot summer, periodically damped the surface of the pots with a watering can using a rose attachment. Plants need to be kept dry, but NOT dehydrated. During August, as flower spikes start to show, water should be given." On another note, I read in a research paper how Nerine sarnienses as well as some other Amaryllids, form up to three years worth of flower buds inside the bulbs, which remain dormant until stimulated to set forth into bloom. Logically, a "sick" bulb that has been unsuccessful to get to bloom ,may take a few years of coddling to restore blooming cycles. From Billthebulbbaron@aol.com Mon Sep 19 00:57:16 2005 Message-Id: <20.4d5fa10a.305f9f29@aol.com> From: Billthebulbbaron@aol.com Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 00:57:13 EDT In a message dated 9/18/05 8:15:45 PM, mmattus@charter.net writes: << On another note, I read in a research paper how Nerine sarnienses as well as some other Amaryllids, form up to three years worth of flower buds inside the bulbs, >> Matt, Do you know which genera those other amaryllids are? Best wishes, Bill the Bulb Baron BilltheBulbBaron.com William R.P. Welch P.O. Box 1736 (UPS: 264 West Carmel Valley Road) Carmel Valley, CA 93924-1736, USA Phone/fax (831) 659-3830 From mmattus@charter.net Mon Sep 19 08:27:36 2005 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 08:27:34 -0400 Hi Bill I will check, I did find the abstract on-line since it was a year ago that I downloaded it. My membership needs to be renewed, but if you wish to join Acta Horticulurae it is available there, since I just double checked the abstract, which is free, so it is still available. This information came from an Israli study by H. Lilien-kipnis, entitiled DEVELOPMENT OF THE BULB AND INFLORESCENCE IN OUTDOOR GROWN NERINE SARNIENSIS (for the cut flower industry). From, my memory, I believe that the article did not specify which Amaryllids also held this habit, however, it did speak to the fact that this is a problem facing commercial Nerine growers in Israel and the discovery of damage caused to inflorescence buds at a particular developmental stage during the long period between floral bud initiation and antheses. I believe that Alan Meerow may have some information weather this also occurs with Eucrosia species and perhaps Griffinia, other "fussy" bloomers in Amaryllidaceae. Matt Mattus Worcester, MA USDA Zone 5 On 9/19/05 12:57 AM, "Billthebulbbaron@aol.com" wrote: > > In a message dated 9/18/05 8:15:45 PM, mmattus@charter.net writes: > > << On another note, I read in a research paper how Nerine sarnienses as well > as > some other Amaryllids, form up to three years worth of flower buds inside > the bulbs, >> > > Matt, > > Do you know which genera those other amaryllids are? > > > Best wishes, > > Bill the Bulb Baron > BilltheBulbBaron.com > William R.P. Welch > P.O. Box 1736 > (UPS: 264 West Carmel Valley Road) > Carmel Valley, CA 93924-1736, USA > Phone/fax (831) 659-3830 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jshields@indy.net Mon Sep 19 09:08:43 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050919074313.00b09dc8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 08:09:12 -0500 Hi Matt and all, In stark contrast to the very difficult sarniensis hybrids, I have found that the summer growing species are wonderful pot plants. I grow angulata, angustifolia, appendiculata, filifolia, filamentosa, gracilis, huttoniae, krigei, laticoma, platypetala, and rehmannii. I also have numerous undulata. which are readily available in the trade; undulata flowers in about January here in the greenhouse. N. masoniorum is similar to filamentosa, but is much less free flowering for me. A plant received as N. gibsonii was shown not to be that species. It is an excellent pot plant, and sets seed freely. The seedlings look just like the parents, so it is probably a species, even if not true gibsonii. It is in flower right now. Unlike some of the small flowered species, its scapes are in good proportion to the flower size. I have bulbs received as hessioides; these may not be true hessioides. The krigei flowers first, in mid-July. The leaves are long, narrow, and twisted around the long axis. The flowers are rather spidery, but up to 2 inches across. It needs some winter chill to induce flowering. N. filifolia flowers after krigei, and their bloom times overlap in most seasons. Both set seeds freely, and I have the cross [filifolia X krigei] in flower too. My only laticoma large enough to flower also blooms at this time, with flowers as large as krigei's. It has so far refused to set seeds. Now the rest are flowering. None have proved hardy so far, but I will keep trying. N. bowdenii flowers later -- November and December. It has so far not set seed with krigei, and vice versa. Bulbs of N. bowdenii "Koen's Hardy" have survived in the open field through a couple of winters, unmulched. However, they were visibly weakened, producing smaller and fewer leaves in the field. After two winters, I dug the remaining plants and now grow them in pots. The flower well in pots in the winter greenhouse, but never flowered in the field. This latter is not surprising, since my ground is often frozen when the 'Koen's Hardy" in my greenhouse flower. I obtained true N. bowdenii wellsii a couple years ago, and these bulbs have proved very robust in pots. I expect them to start flowering this winter. If they do, I'll cross them with "Koen's Hardy" for starters. "Koen's Hardy" is a clone selected by Aad Koen in The Netherlands for production of cut flowers. It survives his winters there in the open field, given a little mulch. Common bowdenii does not survive his winters in the open, even when mulched -- at least, not healthy enough to then flower. So if the sarniensis hybrids do not perform well enough to justify the time and trouble to grow them, try some of the summer growing species. You'll like them! Sources of bulbs and seeds of Nerine species: Try Rachel & Rod Saunders and Rhoda & Cameron McMaster (see: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/GLOVBulbs/SOURCES.html ) Regards, Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From vicm527@verizon.net Mon Sep 19 12:06:46 2005 Message-Id: <0IN2002GMNF8N6J8@vms046.mailsrvcs.net> From: "Vicm" Subject: problems with sending seeds to the USA Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 12:06:40 -0400 Hi Rachel, I am afraid I can be of little help to you. These regulations are very confusing. I suspect that even the agents who inspect the shipments do not fully understand them. Your problems may stem from an over-zealous inspector. It is my understanding, little that it is, that a written permit is not needed for garden seed. Treated seed (which I take to be pelleted or sprayed) also does not need a written permit but does require a document regarding kind of treatment. Have you contacted Hudson Seeds? jhudsonseeds.org He is current on all of this and has been active in organizing a campaign to change the regulations. I sure hope you work this out. I shall be crushed if I cannot get my SA seed. Your are a great supplier. Lynn Makela ----- Original Message ----- From: Rachel Saunders To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 12:01 PM Subject: [pbs] problems with sending seeds to the USA Dear All, I need some information please if someone can help. For the last 3 or 4 years, we have been sending seed into the USA using a fairly simple system. We wait until we have 10 US orders, then get 1 phytosanitary certificate covering all species in the orders, and send the orders in 1 large box with the 1 phyto to my brother in Chicago. When the box arrives, he posts the orders for me. This has worked extremely well until recently. In the last 4 months, 2 boxes have disappeared. They have never re-appeared. So this time I decided to contact the USDA and ask if they had it. They told me that they did not. Then, by some very strange coincidence, 2 days later my brother was notified that they did in fact have the box, and they were sending it back to me. The reason for this is: "You cannot include items that require treatment as a form of entry with items that do not require treatment. Also phyto must include the variety of sp. "Aloe sp." is not sufficient". On the phyto we have always put Lachenalia species, Moraea species, etc instead of listing every single species (which is tedious!) and until now this has been acceptable. I can obviously get round this problem - I will have to list every species which is tedious but possible. And the 2nd problem is the treatment of seeds. Is there a list that the USDA issues telling one which seeds need treatment and which do not? I am now in a state as the whole system seems to have fallen apart and I am not sure what to do. Has anyone heard that the regulations have changed? What is the position about import permits? Do you all have to have import permits for seeds, or can you import small quantities without permits? I remember reading a while ago that the requirement for phytosanitary certificates for hobbyists may be disappearing. I assume that this has not happened? I am now sitting here with 15 orders waiting to be sent to the USA, and I don't know how to send them or what to do with them! Does this mean the end of seed for you all??!! Regards Rachel Saunders Silverhill Seeds Tel +27 21 762 4245 Fax +27 21 797 6609 PO Box 53108, Kenilworth, 7745 South Africa _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon Sep 19 12:43:57 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 16:43:55 +0000 Dear all: Tulipa saxatilis (like T.linifolia, all forms of clusiana and a few hybrids like "Queen of Sheba), is very permanent in rather mild climates like this. All of them are grown in strong light but the foliage never receives direct sunlight. After flowers they are beheaded. As for Tulipa cretica I have grown it for 12 years from wild collected bulbs and it has never flowered. Alberto zone 9 in winter, zone 10 in summer year round rains _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From totototo@pacificcoast.net Mon Sep 19 15:58:57 2005 Message-Id: From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Lycoris Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 13:13:41 -0700 On 18 Sep 05 at 17:53, James Waddick wrote (without saying who is quoted): > >One big disappointment has been Lycoris squamigera. > > This species does badly in mild zones. If you are warmer > than 7 it probably will not perform well. Does that put you > squarely in Zone 8? Lycoris sqamigera does excellently for me here in zone 8, not too far from zone 9. As I write, it's putting on a major show. To my sorrow, though, L. squamigera is the only lycoris that does well here. This city is badly infested with both species of narcissus fly (large and small) because of the many feral bulbs of tough old daffodil cultivars, and the flies make short work of all other lycoris. How squamigera survives the onslaught of winged horrors is anybody's guess. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From mmattus@charter.net Mon Sep 19 22:36:02 2005 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Nerine Sarnienses Hybrids Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 22:35:57 -0400 Thanks Jim After all, you started me down this path of growing Nerine and Lachenalia, and now I am hooked!. I did add a pot of a half dozen N. masoniorum last year, ( at least that is what they were sold to me as) of course they bloomed well for me last November since they we're fresh from the nursery,, this year, we shall see. I am SO inspired now to add to this Nerine collection, so I'm off to see what I can still order. Thanks Matt Mattus Worcester, MA USDA Zone 5 On 9/19/05 9:09 AM, "J.E. Shields" wrote: > Hi Matt and all, > > In stark contrast to the very difficult sarniensis hybrids, I have found > that the summer growing species are wonderful pot plants. I grow angulata, > angustifolia, appendiculata, filifolia, filamentosa, gracilis, huttoniae, > krigei, laticoma, platypetala, and rehmannii. I also have numerous > undulata. which are readily available in the trade; undulata flowers in > about January here in the greenhouse. > > N. masoniorum is similar to filamentosa, but is much less free flowering > for me. A plant received as N. gibsonii was shown not to be that > species. It is an excellent pot plant, and sets seed freely. The > seedlings look just like the parents, so it is probably a species, even if > not true gibsonii. It is in flower right now. Unlike some of the small > flowered species, its scapes are in good proportion to the flower size. > > I have bulbs received as hessioides; these may not be true hessioides. > > The krigei flowers first, in mid-July. The leaves are long, narrow, and > twisted around the long axis. The flowers are rather spidery, but up to 2 > inches across. It needs some winter chill to induce flowering. > > N. filifolia flowers after krigei, and their bloom times overlap in most > seasons. Both set seeds freely, and I have the cross [filifolia X krigei] > in flower too. My only laticoma large enough to flower also blooms at this > time, with flowers as large as krigei's. It has so far refused to set seeds. > > Now the rest are flowering. > > None have proved hardy so far, but I will keep trying. > > N. bowdenii flowers later -- November and December. It has so far not set > seed with krigei, and vice versa. Bulbs of N. bowdenii "Koen's Hardy" have > survived in the open field through a couple of winters, > unmulched. However, they were visibly weakened, producing smaller and > fewer leaves in the field. After two winters, I dug the remaining plants > and now grow them in pots. The flower well in pots in the winter > greenhouse, but never flowered in the field. This latter is not > surprising, since my ground is often frozen when the 'Koen's Hardy" in my > greenhouse flower. > > I obtained true N. bowdenii wellsii a couple years ago, and these bulbs > have proved very robust in pots. I expect them to start flowering this > winter. If they do, I'll cross them with "Koen's Hardy" for starters. > > "Koen's Hardy" is a clone selected by Aad Koen in The Netherlands for > production of cut flowers. It survives his winters there in the open > field, given a little mulch. Common bowdenii does not survive his winters > in the open, even when mulched -- at least, not healthy enough to then flower. > > So if the sarniensis hybrids do not perform well enough to justify the time > and trouble to grow them, try some of the summer growing species. You'll > like them! > > Sources of bulbs and seeds of Nerine species: Try Rachel & Rod Saunders > and Rhoda & Cameron > McMaster (see: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/GLOVBulbs/SOURCES.html ) > > Regards, > Jim Shields > > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From davidxvictor-0q20LBFwpCv0flw8DkycmIpXlEhTnVi@mailblocks.com Tue Sep 20 05:23:57 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Stenomesson variegatum Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 09:49:23 +0100 Dear all A few days ago, I posted a photograph of Stenomesson variegatum on the WIKI. Following a message from Alberto, I did some further checking on the current status of the plant and now write to update my earlier note. As you will probably know, in recent years, Alan Meerow has been leading major research efforts into the phylogeny of the Amaryllidaceae. In a paper published in 2000 ***, the group which he leads addressed the subject of the American part of the family, in which they showed that the American clade is sister to the Eurasian clade and that the former probably consists of two parts, an extra-Andean "hippeastroid" clade and a Andean tetraploid clade. More importantly for the purposes of this note, they found that the tribe Stenomessease divides into two groups, one of which has petiolate (stalked) leaves and the other lorate (strap-shaped) leaves and that these two sit in different relationships with the other parts of the Andean clade. Those with petiolate leaves are closely related to the Eucharideae (Eucrosia, Eucharis, Rauhia, Urceolina & Phaedranassa), with those with lorate leaves are closely related to the tribe Hymenocallideae (Humenocallis, Ismene & Leptochiton). As a result of this analysis, various name changes are called for and they propose the following. Firstly, priority determines that the petiolate tribe must take the extant name Stenomesseae and the lorate tribe are given the next prior name Clinantheae (derived from Clinanthus Herbert); the new tribe contains the genera Clinanthus (20 species), Pamianths (2), Paramongaia (1) and Pucara (1). It then follows that the lorate leaved Stenomesson (and a number of other species from other families) need to change their name to become Clinanthus. In particular, Stenomesson variegatum becomes Clinanthus variegatus. The question is, how to handle this kind of change in terms of the WIKI. As I mentioned above, these are proposed changes and, as noted in the paper, only the basionym is currently provided, pending full synonomy in a monograph of the genus. Just as importantly, to my mind, other contemporary references elsewhere will not yet contain these revisions. It seems to me that the best way, at least for today, is to leave entries for lorate species under Stenomesson and related genera, but to include clear cross references to Clinanthus against the indiviual species. Incidentally, today both entries under Stenomesson (S. incarnatum and S. variegatum fall into the lorate group), but I have not reviewed other affected genera. I am obliged to Alberto for bringing this to my attention, not least as I have learnt a great deal by reading the papers! *** "Phylogeny of the American Amaryllidaceae based on nrDNA ITS sequences" Meerow et al. Systematic Botany (2000): pp708-726. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Sep 20 12:14:06 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Stenomesson variegatum Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 16:14:04 +0000 Hi David: I oly wanted to attract your attention to the fact that the Clinanthus group are far more easy to grow na dflower than the other group, that mostly require cool growing conditions but at the same time not too cold. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.latam.msn.com/ From Antennaria@aol.com Tue Sep 20 22:19:16 2005 Message-Id: <154.59b874fb.30621d1f@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Stenomesson variegatum Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 22:19:11 EDT What is a "clade"? Mark McDonough, antennaria@aol.com, http://www.plantbuzz.com From jshields@indy.net Wed Sep 21 13:31:18 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050921122836.01fad6f8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Stenomesson variegatum Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 12:31:44 -0500 Hi Mark, and all, Others could define "clade" better, but in lieu of others, I'll try. A clade is a group of organisms, all of which are more closely related to each other than any of them is to any organism outside the clade. A clade may be a species, genus, family, or any other classical taxonomic level. A clade may also fall between the levels of the classical hierarchy. Does that help? Jim Shields not a taxonomist, in central Indiana (USA) At 10:19 PM 9/20/2005 -0400, you wrote: >What is a "clade"? > >Mark McDonough, antennaria@aol.com, http://www.plantbuzz.com ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Wed Sep 21 13:54:03 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050921195050.01d17d10@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: Green gladiolus Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 19:53:45 +0200 Perhaps you all have seen a green gladiolus? I saw my first one today when I went outside. My daughter says she planted 4 last spring, and this one blossomed. The petals are deformed (you may have a nice word for that!) and the pistils or stamens are white. Another first today was in my window sill: one of my younger "amaryllis" has a bulbil growing out of the bottom of the pot and up the side! Carol From steve.burger@choa.org Wed Sep 21 14:07:55 2005 Message-Id: <0BAB7B6F7D5A53418C3B75FA01DE2BED0938B09A@CHOAMAIL4.choa.org> From: "Burger, Steve" Subject: FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 14:06:24 -0400 Thanks that makes me feel even better about my decision to buy saxatilis. I've had clusiana for a year and I plan to see it next spring. Steve -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Alberto Castillo Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 12:44 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Dear all: Tulipa saxatilis (like T.linifolia, all forms of clusiana and a few hybrids like "Queen of Sheba), is very permanent in rather mild climates like this. All of them are grown in strong light but the foliage never receives direct sunlight. After flowers they are beheaded. As for Tulipa cretica I have grown it for 12 years from wild collected bulbs and it has never flowered. Alberto zone 9 in winter, zone 10 in summer year round rains _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From steve.burger@choa.org Wed Sep 21 14:35:20 2005 Message-Id: <0BAB7B6F7D5A53418C3B75FA01DE2BED0938B09B@CHOAMAIL4.choa.org> From: "Burger, Steve" Subject: FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 14:34:07 -0400 ...about "Queen of Sheba", have others had good luck in warm winter moist summer regions? This is a most impressive tulip. I never dreamed I could be growing a large hybrid tulip here in "Hotlanta". Steve -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Alberto Castillo Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 12:44 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Dear all: Tulipa saxatilis (like T.linifolia, all forms of clusiana and a few hybrids like "Queen of Sheba), is very permanent in rather mild climates like this. All of them are grown in strong light but the foliage never receives direct sunlight. After flowers they are beheaded. As for Tulipa cretica I have grown it for 12 years from wild collected bulbs and it has never flowered. Alberto zone 9 in winter, zone 10 in summer year round rains _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From davidxvictor-01kINBPo6Cv0cnEmf2PcLvOfYBjwPNJ@mailblocks.com Wed Sep 21 14:45:44 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Stenomesson variegatum Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 19:45:19 +0100 > > >What is a "clade"? > >Mark McDonough, antennaria@aol.com, http://www.plantbuzz.com Hi Mark, A clade is a group of species with a common ancestor. In cladistics, the interest is in how today's plants have developed from earlier plants and their relationships across time to other plants. You can compare this to taxonomy, where the interest is in plants today and how they relate in hierarchical terms with other related plants. Having said that, I am no expert in this area, I just happen to know a few bits and pieces. If you are interested further you could look at "clade" in the Wikipedia or through Google. However, expert or not, I find this kind of information just helps me to understand my plants better! Best regards, David Victor From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed Sep 21 14:45:28 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 18:45:26 +0000 "Thanks that makes me feel even better about my decision to buy saxatilis. I've had clusiana for a year and I plan to see it next spring. >Steve" Hi Steve: I failed to add that all my tulips are always in the (very gritty) ground without ever being lifted. Not that this is a recommended practice but our bulbs are in a southern (cold) exposure on purpose to "collect" cold and as said before, out of direct sun. Give them all a try, you won't regret it, but remember not to bake them. Best Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.latam.msn.com/ From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed Sep 21 15:15:09 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 19:15:07 +0000 >...about "Queen of Sheba", have others had good luck in warm winter moist >summer regions? This is a most impressive tulip. I never dreamed I could >be growing a large hybrid tulip here in "Hotlanta". > >Steve" Besides this, and a few others there are in particular two Darwins of Dutch origin and received from a Chilean company that flower reliably every year without dividing into tiny ones and that look very happy. One is a fierce vermillion like in T. linifolia and the other a striking plum. I do not have their names. All of them and thousands of other bulbs are regularly fertilized in tiny doses with potassium sulphate while in growth. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From dells@voicenet.com Wed Sep 21 18:58:35 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific Bx 102 Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 18:57:58 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 102" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: ... Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Arnold Trachtenberg: 1. Bulbs of Nerine bowdenii 2. Bulbils of Lilium sulphereum, can be planted now in temperate climate or held under refrigeration in moist sphagnum till spring. From Lee Poulsen: 3. Seed of Hippeastrum aulicum From Tsuh Yang Chen: 4. Tubers of Sinningia aghensis From Dennis Kramb: 5. Seed of Iris odaesanensis 6. Seed of Nelumbo lutea From Lyn Makela: 7. Bulbs (not dormant) of Tulbaghia cominsii 8. Tubers of Sinningia tubiflora 9. Bulbs of Freesia refracta alba (syn F. alba) SEED: 10. Chasmanthe floribunda 11. Calydorea pallens 12. Dietes iridioides 'Amatola', dwarf 13. Freesia muirii (syn F. leichtlinii) 14. Habranthus robustus 15. Zephyranthes reginae 'Valles yellow' 16. Zephyranthes primulina 17. Zephyranthes commersoniana (syn Z. mesochloa) BULBLETS: 18. Oxalis purpurea alba 19. Oxalis purpurea 'Garnet' 20. Oxalis obtusa, rose From Mark Mazer: 21. Bulblets of Cyanella hyacinthoides 22. Bulblets of Lachenalia juncifolia 23. Seed of Cypella plumbosa plantensis (coelestis) 24. Tubers of Arisaema rhombiforme Thank you, Arnold, Lee, Tsuh Yang, Dennis, Lyn, and Mark !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From steve.burger@choa.org Wed Sep 21 19:25:58 2005 Message-Id: <0BAB7B6F7D5A53418C3B75FA01DE2BED05FE1F02@CHOAMAIL4.choa.org> From: "Burger, Steve" Subject: Tulips for warm regions Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 19:25:09 -0400 I was looking at a document from NC State U. ag program. They have a doc for tulips for North Carolina. About half of that state is a warm zone 8 or higher and half is mountainous and cooler. I have pulled the following from the tulips they listed for zone 8. Any thoughts on this list for likely tulips to return and perform in a warm and wet zone 8? Showwinner Stresa Demeter Purissima (White Emperor) Yokohama Toronto Queen of Sheba Christmas Marvel Bellona Candela Yellow Dover Golden Oxford Striped Apeldoorn Orange Emperor Oranjezon Apeldoorn Diplomat Margaret Herbst Oxford Parade Beauty of Apeldoorn Spring Song Don Quichotte Balalaika Renown Angelique Orange Favourite Thanks, Steve From arnold@nj.rr.com Wed Sep 21 20:14:38 2005 Message-Id: <4331F76B.7080102@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: colchicum & Rauhia Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 20:14:35 -0400 Bees are a rare sight here due to the destruction by mites. I don't know where the hive could be. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Colchicum_feeding_beesAT.JPG A rarely seen South America bulb http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Rauhia Arnold New Jersey where it doesn't rain anymore From dkramb@badbear.com Wed Sep 21 23:08:46 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050921223819.01caaeb0@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Pacific Bx 102 - a word on Nelumbo lutea Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 23:08:59 -0400 For those of you that try the growing the Nelumbo lutea from seed, I'd like to offer a few comments / observations / suggestions. I live to the north of Cincinnati, Ohio on the Zone 5 / Zone 6 border. I planted the seed in spring (I think in April) and they germinated quite readily sown in my pond in submerged pots. A thin layer of gravel on top of the soil helped to keep the water clear. The seed has a thick protective shell, so to accelerate the germination I prepared them by using a metal file to scrape away a few millimeters deep. You'll know when you get there because the new layer is a much lighter color. A comparable analogy is probably like a peanut M&M candy. The hard shell is much thicker on the Nelumbo seed. You want to file that down till you expose the "chocolate layer". If you get to the "peanut", then you've gone too far and probably killed the seed. The seeds also want to float... so the gravel on top of the pots helps to keep them from "escaping." Just for fun I tried growing some in my tropical fish aquarium. The seeds all germinated but died very quickly (less than 1 week). I strongly suspect that cold water in an outdoor pond is essential to success. The 68 degree F temps in my fish tank were probably too warm. My plants are thriving 4 years later in my pond. They are aggressive!! They send out runners or stolons, trying to establish new plants all around the pond. They did not bloom the first two years, but have bloomed reliably the last two years. This plant should be fully hardy up to Zone 4 or Zone 3. It will probably struggle in extremely warm (tropical) climates. I took pictures of the seedlings. At first I mistook the young leaves as debris floating on the surface of the pond. I almost killed them trying to fish them out! If anyone would like to see the photos I can send them by email. I also have photos of the flowers themselves, which are HUGE and GORGEOUS. For additional information and/or photos I recommend the following sites: http://el.erdc.usace.army.mil/aqua/apis/plants/html/nelumbo_.html http://www.holoweb.com/cannon/american2.htm http://www.floridata.com/ref/N/nelu_lut.cfm http://aquat1.ifas.ufl.edu/nelupic.html http://www.ibiblio.org/pfaf/cgi-bin/arr_html?Nelumbo+lutea&CAN=COMIND Wow, this message turned out much longer than I expected. :-) Have fun! Dennis in Cincinnati From samclan@redshift.com Thu Sep 22 00:04:05 2005 Message-Id: <43322E9B.8070303@redshift.com> From: Shirley Meneice Subject: Pacific Bx 102 - a word on Nelumbo lutea Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 21:10:03 -0700 What a great description! You really make me want to try them, but I just don't live in the right place. I'm in Zone 10. I hope lots of others go for them. Shirley Meneice. Dennis Kramb wrote: >For those of you that try the growing the Nelumbo lutea from seed, I'd like >to offer a few comments / observations / suggestions. > >I live to the north of Cincinnati, Ohio on the Zone 5 / Zone 6 border. I >planted the seed in spring (I think in April) and they germinated quite >readily sown in my pond in submerged pots. A thin layer of gravel on top >of the soil helped to keep the water clear. > >The seed has a thick protective shell, so to accelerate the germination I >prepared them by using a metal file to scrape away a few millimeters >deep. You'll know when you get there because the new layer is a much >lighter color. A comparable analogy is probably like a peanut M&M >candy. The hard shell is much thicker on the Nelumbo seed. You want to >file that down till you expose the "chocolate layer". If you get to the >"peanut", then you've gone too far and probably killed the seed. > >The seeds also want to float... so the gravel on top of the pots helps to >keep them from "escaping." > >Just for fun I tried growing some in my tropical fish aquarium. The seeds >all germinated but died very quickly (less than 1 week). I strongly >suspect that cold water in an outdoor pond is essential to success. The 68 >degree F temps in my fish tank were probably too warm. > >My plants are thriving 4 years later in my pond. They are >aggressive!! They send out runners or stolons, trying to establish new >plants all around the pond. They did not bloom the first two years, but >have bloomed reliably the last two years. > >This plant should be fully hardy up to Zone 4 or Zone 3. It will probably >struggle in extremely warm (tropical) climates. > >I took pictures of the seedlings. At first I mistook the young leaves as >debris floating on the surface of the pond. I almost killed them trying to >fish them out! If anyone would like to see the photos I can send them by >email. I also have photos of the flowers themselves, which are HUGE and >GORGEOUS. > >For additional information and/or photos I recommend the following sites: > http://el.erdc.usace.army.mil/aqua/apis/plants/html/nelumbo_.html > http://www.holoweb.com/cannon/american2.htm > http://www.floridata.com/ref/N/nelu_lut.cfm > http://aquat1.ifas.ufl.edu/nelupic.html > http://www.ibiblio.org/pfaf/cgi-bin/arr_html?Nelumbo+lutea&CAN=COMIND > >Wow, this message turned out much longer than I expected. :-) > >Have fun! > >Dennis in Cincinnati > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.3/107 - Release Date: 9/20/05 From dells@voicenet.com Thu Sep 22 06:55:45 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: FW: BX 102 CLOSED Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 06:55:14 -0400 ---------- From: "Dell Sherk" Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 06:50:22 -0400 To: Subject: FW: BX 102 CLOSED Everything - and more - has been claimed. Packages should go out after the weekend. Enjoy, Dell Dell Sherk, Director, PBS BX From dells@voicenet.com Thu Sep 22 07:00:03 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Wrong name on BX 102 Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 07:00:23 -0400 Tsuh Yang has pointed out that the tubers he donated are Sinningia tubiflora instead of S. aghensis. That's #4 on BX 102. Sorry, --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu Sep 22 11:32:04 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Pacific Bx 102 Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 15:32:03 +0000 Dear all: The cycles for items in BX 102. The name for the Cypella is C. coelestis. Regards Albeerto > >From Arnold Trachtenberg: > >1. Bulbs of Nerine bowdenii (S) >2. Bulbils of Lilium sulphereum, can be planted now in temperate climate or >held under refrigeration in moist sphagnum till spring. (S) > > >From Lee Poulsen: > >3. Seed of Hippeastrum aulicum (WE) > > >From Tsuh Yang Chen: > >4. Tubers of Sinningia aghensis (S) > > >From Dennis Kramb: > >5. Seed of Iris odaesanensis (W) >6. Seed of Nelumbo lutea (S) > > >From Lyn Makela: > >7. Bulbs (not dormant) of Tulbaghia cominsii (SE) >8. Tubers of Sinningia tubiflora (S) >9. Bulbs of Freesia refracta alba (syn F. alba) (W) > >SEED: >10. Chasmanthe floribunda (W) >11. Calydorea pallens (S) >12. Dietes iridioides 'Amatola', dwarf (SE) >13. Freesia muirii (syn F. leichtlinii) (W) >14. Habranthus robustus (W) >15. Zephyranthes reginae 'Valles yellow' (S) >16. Zephyranthes primulina (S) 17. Zephyranthes commersoniana (syn Z. >mesochloa) (W) >BULBLETS: >18. Oxalis purpurea alba (W) >19. Oxalis purpurea 'Garnet' (W) >20. Oxalis obtusa, rose (W) > > >From Mark Mazer: > >21. Bulblets of Cyanella hyacinthoides (W) >22. Bulblets of Lachenalia juncifolia (W) >23. Seed of Cypella plumbosa plantensis (coelestis) (W) >24. Tubers of Arisaema rhombiforme (S) _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From kevinpreuss@bellsouth.net Thu Sep 22 15:16:39 2005 Message-Id: <000601c5bfaa$26df2170$6101a8c0@Hymenocallis> From: "Kevin Preuss" Subject: Pacific Bx 102 - a word on Nelumbo lutea Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 15:16:36 -0400 http://www.plantatlas.usf.edu/images.asp?plantID=2954 shows that they grow in Florida! Kevin Preuss Amaryllis-Plus Bulb Co. Brooksville, FL www.amaryllis-plus.com From Theladygardens@aol.com Fri Sep 23 02:35:46 2005 Message-Id: From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Colchicum loving ants Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2005 02:35:41 EDT Didn't mean to complain but yes, if you can send the entire picture via e-mail, I would copy it off. It's beautiful If you can't, don't worry, I'll just enjoy the version I have. Carolyn From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Fri Sep 23 14:12:42 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050923200918.01e09208@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2005 20:11:46 +0200 At 20:45 21-09-2005, Alberto Castillo wrote: >Hi Steve: > I failed to add that all my tulips are always in the (very >gritty) ground without ever being lifted. Not that this is a recommended >practice but our bulbs are in a southern (cold) exposure on purpose to >"collect" cold and as said before, out of direct sun. Give them all a try, >you won't regret it, but remember not to bake them. >Best >Alberto And in a cool climate like mine (Denmark) I am forever digging them up when I weed. Often they winter on top of the ground, and then if lying on their sides, send roots down early in spring and eventually right themselves and flower normally. (It freezes in winter, January and February). This is because Denmark has the correct climate for tulips and all these cold-climate bulbs, of course. Carol From leo1010@attglobal.net Sat Sep 24 12:26:40 2005 Message-Id: <43357010.7000809@attglobal.net> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Nelumbo lutea Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 09:26:08 -0600 > What a great description! You really make me want to try them, but I > just don't live in the right place. I'm in Zone 10. Nelumbo lutea is native to northern North America. Nelumbo nucifera (flowers white through red in various cultivars) is native to Asia. N. nucifera grows well in warmer climates so long as they have high humidity. They are considered almost impossible here in Phoenix. But if you live in a muggy climate you should have no trouble with N. nucifera. The sprouting method is the same, except they are very vigorous from the beginning. People often flower them in 5-gallon buckets. The runners and tubers are very brittle. To learn more, go here: http://www.victoria-adventure.org Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Sep 24 11:29:12 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 15:29:11 +0000 "This is because Denmark has the correct climate for tulips and all these cold-climate bulbs, of course. >Carol" Exactly, Carol. And there are scores of other bulbosu plants you can grow to perfection with a minimum of care. but, it takes years to understand that one can not possibly grow each and everything under our own conditions. Either temperatures of daylenght eatablish the boundaries. Best Albert zone 9 in winter zone 10 in summer year round rains _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From jshields104@insightbb.com Sat Sep 24 14:31:39 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050924131224.00b08d60@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Last Blooms Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 13:32:03 -0500 Hi all, The last Lycoris in bloom here is one clump of Lycoris caldwellii, that is in full flower just now. All the other lycorids are finished. An unusually hardy clump of Rhodophiala bifida bloomed not long ago, and a pot of R. bifida is blooming right now on the deck. The Colchicum are in full bloom this week. They are a most welcome addition to the landscape here at the very start of autumn. The Sternbergia lutea are starting to flower now, too. I think you simply could not plant too many Lycoris, Colchicum, and Sternbergia. The only thing left now is to see if Lycoris radiata radiata will flower this year. It is fairly hardy here; and it usually blooms sometime in October, after everything else has disappeared. It really is finally autumn here in Indiana now. The temperatures the past few days have not exceeded 80°F for the first time in many weeks. The hardy Carpathian (i.e., "English" or Persian) walnuts (Juglans regia) are ripening daily. The shellbark hickory trees (Carya laciniosa) are starting to drop their massive hulled nuts; the squirrels are having a feast. The Black Walnuts (Juglans nigra) are dropping their nuts everywhere. And the Chinese Chestnuts (Castanea mollissima) are starting to ripen; I can almost taste the roasted chestnuts ahead for us! I really enjoy autumn. Jim Shields inn central Indiana (USA) ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Sat Sep 24 14:45:47 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050924204301.01df5128@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 20:45:30 +0200 At 17:29 24-09-2005, Alberto Castillo wrote: >it takes years to understand that >one can not possibly grow each and everything under our own conditions. >Either temperatures of daylenght eatablish the boundaries. >Best >Albert Here it was about 25C today - very nice at the end of September in this cold country! I am wondering about how a Rubus armenica will thrive in Buenas Aires! First, it is spring and not autumn. How warm is it this week, for instance? A week in the fridge might help it along, so that it thinks it has been winter and spring is the natural season. Carol From bklehm@comcast.net Sat Sep 24 16:00:51 2005 Message-Id: <17e0cdfba7af9fe0b0763c93dd310efd@comcast.net> From: Brook Klehm Subject: Last Blooms/Colchicum Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 13:00:48 -0700 Hello all, Jim's wonderful description of his garden during this glorious season brings a question to my mind. I'm visiting in Seattle in preparation for relocating this fall. I've been surprised at the quantity of Colchicum I see blooming in front yards and along parking strips. I've never seen so many Colchicum in San Francisco Bay Area gardens. So here's the query: One of the Colchicums I see has very narrow tepals, 3/8" wide (what is that, ~7mm?). I'm accustomed to seeing wider tepalled Colchicums. The flowers are not doubled as in 'Waterlily', but have tepals reminiscent of that plant. Any idea what these Colchicum might be from this simple description? I'm far from my own garden right now, and only hope I can get home in time to see my own Colchicum and Sternbergia and Lycoris blooming and harvest the various grapes in time to may jelly. Wistfully yours.... Brook From arnold@nj.rr.com Sat Sep 24 17:36:24 2005 Message-Id: <4335C6D6.50805@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Last Blooms/Colchicum Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 17:36:22 -0400 Brook: There are number of Colchicum with narrow tepals. have a look at the wiki wiki and you may see the one you describe there. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Colchicum Arnold From roberth6@mac.com Sat Sep 24 18:51:13 2005 Message-Id: <13b27ac2a7dfb869098224b033493114@mac.com> From: Robert Hamilton Subject: Dierama grandiflorum Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 08:52:23 +1000 Hi all, I have uploaded an image of Dierama grandiflorum to the wiki. Seed was obtained from Cameron and Rhoda McMaster and sown in January 2003 with seedlings transferred to the garden about 12 months later. It is flowering now for the first time - early spring for me. Its distribution is confined to a small area of the Bosberg near Somerset East. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Dieramagrandi.JPG Cheers, Rob in Tasmania Temperate Marine Climate Zone 9 equivalent From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Sep 24 20:49:32 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050924174732.01102650@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Last Blooms/Colchicum Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 17:49:20 -0700 Brook asked: One of the >Colchicums I see has very narrow tepals, 3/8" wide (what is that, >~7mm?). I'm accustomed to seeing wider tepalled Colchicums. The >flowers are not doubled as in 'Waterlily', but have tepals reminiscent >of that plant. It may be simply C. autumnale, the normal form from which 'Waterlily' is a sport. Other commonly grown colchicums with narrow tepals include C. cilicicum, C. x agrippinum (which is heavily checkered), and C. laetum. For a common garden plant in Seattle, the most likely are C. autumnale and C. cilicicum. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat Sep 24 21:15:18 2005 Message-Id: <4e61hu$2j4sh1@smtp01.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Last Blooms/Colchicum Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 21:15:17 -0400 Jane McGary wrote: " It may be simply C. autumnale, the normal form from which 'Waterlily' is a sport." Jane, do you know something I don't? There is a widely grown double-flowered form of Colchicum autumnale, but that is not 'Waterlily'. The parentage of Colchicum 'Waterlily' is usually given as Colchicum autumnale 'Alboplenum' crossed with C. speciosum 'Album'. I think the intention of the hybridizer was to get a hybrid, double, white-flowered Colchicum bigger than C. autumnale 'Alboplenum'. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the heat has fried the colchicum this year, and 'Waterlily' is more like 'Cactus-flower'. From ang.por@alice.it Mon Sep 26 12:28:42 2005 Message-Id: <002f01c5c1e1$ba7a3260$bc5f3752@h7o1x9> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: Last Blooms Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 16:59:28 +0200 Jim, indeed this time of the year is very generous of blooms, at least in my area. I have a late-flowering forms of Amaryllis belladonna, a ten of Haemanthus coccineus, a second wave of Lycoris radiata, Crinum moorei, Sternbergia lutea in full glory, Narcissus serotinus, Scilla lingulata, some nerine sarniensis just coming up, countless Tulbaghia violacea. Past Sunday the beach was still full of people ;-) Angelo Porcelli south of Italy From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun Sep 25 11:58:36 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 15:58:35 +0000 >From: Carol Jensen >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: Pacific Bulb Society ,pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: Re: [pbs] FW: Re: Tulipa saxitilis >Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 20:45:30 +0200 > >At 17:29 24-09-2005, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > >it takes years to understand that > >one can not possibly grow each and everything under our own conditions. > >Either temperatures of daylenght eatablish the boundaries. > >Best > >Albert > >Here it was about 25C today - very nice at the end of September in this >cold country! > >I am wondering about how a Rubus armenica will thrive in Buenas Aires! >First, it is spring and not autumn. How warm is it this week, for instance? >A week in the fridge might help it along, so that it thinks it has been >winter and spring is the natural season. > >Carol Dear Carol: The poor thing will know it is not in Armenia (or Kupenhavn) at once! Last Thursday we had 24 C but as the season advances the hot weather lasts for months, say spring, summer and autumn and well into normal winter time. Actually, many plants regarded as indoor ones are now happily in gardens and are permanent. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.latam.msn.com/ From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Sep 25 13:37:28 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050925103659.01115e08@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Last Blooms/Colchicum Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 10:37:25 -0700 Jim McKenney wrote, There is a widely grown double-flowered form of Colchicum autumnale, but >that is not 'Waterlily'. > >The parentage of Colchicum 'Waterlily' is usually given as Colchicum >autumnale 'Alboplenum' crossed with C. speciosum 'Album'. I think the >intention of the hybridizer was to get a hybrid, double, white-flowered >Colchicum bigger than C. autumnale 'Alboplenum'. Sorry, I was in error. Jane McGary From john@floralarchitecture.com Mon Sep 26 13:04:44 2005 Message-Id: <20050926170443.15875.qmail@web50102.mail.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: Last Blooms/Colchicum Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 10:04:43 -0700 (PDT) I have a few of these blooming at the moment here in OH where I'm working for a few weeks. The 'Waterlily' plants that I have planted everywhere are doing well. There is one that is in the shade of a peony. It opens pure white and then fades over a few days to the purple/rose color. I was all excited and I thought that I had a white mutation. Oh well. I will be planting more of these next year. C. 'Lilac Wonder' has resurfaced and is blooming also. This is the 5th year that it has been in the ground. I am very happy with this one too. It was my first one and as such shall remain my favorite. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From jshields@indy.net Mon Sep 26 13:28:28 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050926122201.00b093a0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Last Blooms Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 12:28:55 -0500 Hi Angelo and all, I have a few Haemanthus blooming here, too; but not in the ground. The Haemanthus albiflos started blooming in late August and have continued. I probably have a few too many pots of them! In the greenhouse, a couple of Haemanthus coccineus, started as seed 8 years ago, are starting to bloom. Two H. barkerae are blooming, and one H. crispus is going to flower. I'm excited, as these are the first blooms on these particular batches of H. coccineus and for the crispus. The H. crispus bulb is tiny, barely over an inch in diameter. It came from Guy Wrinkle as "bloom size" a couple years ago. It is slightly larger than my seed-grown bulbs of crispus, none of which has bloomed yet. The Crinum moorei (in 5-gal. containers) bloomed out in August and have now shed their leaves, even though the weather has remained wet and warm right up till now. Regards, Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Mon Sep 26 14:10:16 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050926200655.01de6d48@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: seeds Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 20:09:35 +0200 If any of you are interested in growing Bowiea volubis, I may have seeds to send. If you wait a couple of weeks there may be more. Looks as though the plant will flower for a month more or so! Carol From davidxvictor-0JuMTBIZoCv0eTuO2c194E0d5Hug97r@mailblocks.com Mon Sep 26 15:23:19 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Hedychium Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 20:22:40 +0100 Dear all, Mary Sue was kind enough to add a page to the WIKI for these beautiful members of the ginger (Zingiberaceae) family. So, in return, I've added pictures of Hedychium forrestii, H. spicatum 'Robustum' and H. gardnerianum. I am particularly fond of the last one, which to me is one of the most beautiful plants that I know: perfect flowers and a wonderful fragrance. You can find them at http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Hedychium I hope you enjoy them as much as I enjoy the plants! Best regards, David Victor From dkramb@badbear.com Mon Sep 26 16:03:31 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050926155508.01b8d860@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Louisiana Irises, anyone? Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 16:03:41 -0400 I just harvested a bunch of Louisiana Iris seeds. I grow several of the "Hexagonae" species but they cross so easily that these seeds are probably hybrids. Only the bumblebees could tell you who the parents are! If any of you would like to try them, let me know & I will send some to Dell for the next BX. Dennis in Cincy From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon Sep 26 16:35:15 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Louisiana Irises, anyone? Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 20:35:14 +0000 Hi Dennis: Dr. O'Farrell used to grow lots of wonderful Lousiana hybrids from seed in quite a short time in his ranch. And they are impervious to slight frosts. Both the foliage and the glorious flowers provide a very long season of interest. Please send them to the BX. It would also be most important to eventually count with true wild seed of any of their species so we can all know what they really look like. Do you know of anyone growing the species of them? All the best Alberto _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From merrill@gamblegarden.org Mon Sep 26 17:57:19 2005 Message-Id: <20050926215718.4B93232C016@smtpauth00.csee.siteprotect.com> From: "Merrill Jensen" Subject: Louisiana Irises, anyone? Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 14:57:14 -0700 Hi Dennis, Please send these along to Dell for the next BX. I'd be very interested in getting some for our Garden, where Iris are the Queen of the grounds... Merrill in Palo Alto -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Dennis Kramb Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 1:04 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Louisiana Irises, anyone? I just harvested a bunch of Louisiana Iris seeds. I grow several of the "Hexagonae" species but they cross so easily that these seeds are probably hybrids. Only the bumblebees could tell you who the parents are! If any of you would like to try them, let me know & I will send some to Dell for the next BX. Dennis in Cincy _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From laineh-aas@nmit.vic.edu.au Mon Sep 26 18:00:14 2005 Message-Id: From: "Laine Hall" Subject: PLEASE REMOVE ME Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 07:57:15 +1000 PLEASE REMOVE ME FROM ALL MAILING LISTS IMMEDIATLEY: I RECENTLY HAD AN INQUIREY ABOUT A BOOK ON CLIVIA'S & NOW I AM RECIEVING EMAILS CONSTANTLEY. LAINE HYNES -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the originator of the message. This footer also confirms that this email message has been scanned for the presence of computer viruses by a commercial virus scanner. Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender, except where the sender specifies and with authority, states them to be the views of NMIT. _____________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for viruses by MCI's Internet Managed Scanning Services - powered by MessageLabs. For further information visit http://www.mci.com From laineh-aas@nmit.vic.edu.au Mon Sep 26 18:06:48 2005 Message-Id: From: "Laine Hall" Subject: Louisiana Irises, anyone? Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 08:02:09 +1000 How do l stop recieving everyones email???l have inquired about a book on Clivia and now am receiving a ridiculous amount of emails everyday? Laine >>> merrill@gamblegarden.org 09/27/05 07:57am >>> Hi Dennis, Please send these along to Dell for the next BX. I'd be very interested in getting some for our Garden, where Iris are the Queen of the grounds... Merrill in Palo Alto -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Dennis Kramb Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 1:04 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Louisiana Irises, anyone? I just harvested a bunch of Louisiana Iris seeds. I grow several of the "Hexagonae" species but they cross so easily that these seeds are probably hybrids. Only the bumblebees could tell you who the parents are! If any of you would like to try them, let me know & I will send some to Dell for the next BX. Dennis in Cincy _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _____________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for viruses by MCI's Internet Managed Scanning Services - powered by MessageLabs. For further information visit http://www.mci.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the originator of the message. This footer also confirms that this email message has been scanned for the presence of computer viruses by a commercial virus scanner. Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender, except where the sender specifies and with authority, states them to be the views of NMIT. _____________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for viruses by MCI's Internet Managed Scanning Services - powered by MessageLabs. For further information visit http://www.mci.com From dkramb@badbear.com Mon Sep 26 18:25:01 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050926182252.0037e558@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: how to unsubscribe Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 18:24:54 -0400 Hmmm... each email includes instructions. You can either go to the website: List-Unsubscribe: , or send an email to the address listed below: List-Unsubscribe: From laineh-aas@nmit.vic.edu.au Mon Sep 26 18:28:02 2005 Message-Id: From: "Laine Hall" Subject: how to unsubscribe Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 08:27:31 +1000 Thankyou kindly for the response but as l have tried both of these l am not sure what to do next? Regards Laine >>> dkramb@badbear.com 09/27/05 08:24am >>> Hmmm... each email includes instructions. You can either go to the website: List-Unsubscribe: , or send an email to the address listed below: List-Unsubscribe: _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _____________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for viruses by MCI's Internet Managed Scanning Services - powered by MessageLabs. For further information visit http://www.mci.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the originator of the message. This footer also confirms that this email message has been scanned for the presence of computer viruses by a commercial virus scanner. Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender, except where the sender specifies and with authority, states them to be the views of NMIT. _____________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for viruses by MCI's Internet Managed Scanning Services - powered by MessageLabs. For further information visit http://www.mci.com From dkramb@badbear.com Mon Sep 26 18:41:36 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050926183331.01b48540@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Louisiana Irises, anyone? Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 18:41:46 -0400 >season of interest. Please send them to the BX. It would also be most >important to eventually count with true wild seed of any of their species so >we can all know what they really look like. Do you know of anyone growing >the species of them? Hi Alberto, I will gladly send some in to the BX. I'm active in several iris clubs, so I know many people that are growing pure species too. My experience has taught me that Louisiana Irises perform their best when grown in slow moving (or completely still) shallow water. In a regular garden bed they tend to be less vigorous and more susceptible to insect damage. Dennis in Cincy From pekasky@earthlink.net Mon Sep 26 19:58:20 2005 Message-Id: <2734773.1127779099867.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Marilyn Pekasky Subject: how to unsubscribe Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 19:58:19 -0400 (EDT) From Antennaria@aol.com Mon Sep 26 21:06:21 2005 Message-Id: <1e8.442efa1c.3069f506@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Kniphofia 'Border Ballet' Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:06:14 EDT Last year I bought just one plant of Kniphofia 'Border Ballet', because I was unsure if it would be hardy here. The plants at the nursery came in a beautiful range of pastel colors, including pink. The plant over-wintered fine, and plumped up into a beautiful mound this summer. The flower stalks are just appearing now, and I'm eager to see the color (can't remember which color I selected last year). Doing a Google search, I see that this is a seed-grown selection of K. uvaria. Does any one have more information on this "seed strain", such as where was it was developed and by whom? I can post a photo to the PBS wiki after the flowers open, which should be in a few days. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From jimmckenney@starpower.net Mon Sep 26 22:50:23 2005 Message-Id: <4d64t5$2tnn14@smtp02.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Kniphofia 'Border Ballet' Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 22:50:17 -0400 Mark, I've had seed of this strain at least three times over the years. It's been around for awhile - I first obtained it back in 1987 from Thomson & Morgan. This first acquisition was described as a dwarf strain in mixed colors. I don't remember that K. uvaria was mentioned, but the photo on the seed pack looked nothing like K. uvaria - the plants shown were very delicate and in varied colors. More recently the photos on the packs look more like one of the big and relatively stout Kniphofia. Although I don't know who raised it, it had to be at least well before 1987. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the track record with Kniphofia over the years has been very erratic. From johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk Tue Sep 27 06:01:54 2005 Message-Id: <000401c5c349$e1029940$54de403e@John> From: Subject: Kniphofia 'Border Ballet' Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 10:52:53 +0100 This is a classic case of plant naming in the horticultural trade, where a seed raised 'product' is given a fancy name that makes it sound as if it is a genuine cultivar. "Kniphofia hybrids mixed" would be the accurate description for some of these offerings, but on the other hand some products are really quite good, giving an acceptably similar set of seedlings. There is one such in Kniphofia, known as "Flamenco" which I think derives from the German seed company Benary: these are medium-sized pokers in a good range of colours. It occurs to me that the name could have been adapted to 'Border Ballet' to suit a marketing policy - there is a very great deal of fluidity in these things, much to the horror of the RHS plant names committee and others! The name K. uvaria in such cases should be disregarded - that's what is expected/accepted in the seed trade: the wholesale growers are incredibly consrvative and only want to grow 'names' they're totally familiar with. I must point out that it is perfectly acceptable to call a seed-raised plant a cultivar if it reproduces reliably to type, or at least to a defined set of characters. Unfortunately these tend to slip in the production fields or in gardens and there can be a lot of drift from the original if great care is not taken. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 2:06 AM Subject: [pbs] Kniphofia 'Border Ballet' > Last year I bought just one plant of Kniphofia 'Border Ballet', > > Doing a Google search, I see that this is a seed-grown selection of K. > uvaria. Does any one have more information on this "seed strain", such as where was > it was developed and by whom? > From ConroeJoe@aol.com Tue Sep 27 19:02:43 2005 Message-Id: From: ConroeJoe@aol.com Subject: Off Topic: Hurricane Rita Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:02:38 EDT Hi Gang, I saw an aerial photo in one of today's newspapers showing several destroyed homes in Vidor, TX. I could help but worry about my friends there, among them Marcelle Sheppard and Margie Brown. I visited with both, just a week ago, on Tuesday, September 20, when Hurricane Rita was still only a possibility. Marcelle had been home from about a 3-month stay in the hospital for a broken pelvis and some broken ribs. An earlier storm (this year) had weekend a tree that fell on her as she exited a car for a church function. So, Marcelle was home and wheeling in her chair like a happy kid; she could also get about on a walker. Margie, just a few miles away, has been a longtime Gulf Gardener, and often planted many of Marcelle's special Crinum, rainlily, or Hippeastrum hybrids--to grow them out and to help Marcelle judge garden performance under different conditions. Now, for sure, the storm has devastated their towns. There is really no way to get in to visit them or to know how they are doing. Surely, they got to safety in time, and from the reports I'm getting they will not have been allowed to return to their homes yet. In any event, much of the area is without electricity and temperatures have hovered near 100 F all week. Southeast Texas is no place to be without air conditioning. In time I hope to hear good news from Marcelle and Margie, that their houses were spared, and that their gardens remained mostly intact (how could anything pull a big old Crinum out of the ground?). But, I also know that the wind could have damaged their greenhouses, or blown away Marcelle's seed crop for the year, or totally leveled their homes. I wish them luck. LINK 1: Marcelle's Crinums http://marcellescrinums.com/index.html LINK 2: Crinums in East Texas: Notes From Marcelle Sheppard http://crinum.iconx.com/ Cordially, Conroe Joe (100 F today [38 C], humid and sunny, Oxblood lilies in full bloom for 2-3 weeks now) From lizwat@earthlink.net Tue Sep 27 21:06:27 2005 Message-Id: <4339EC77.3030403@earthlink.net> From: Liz Waterman Subject: [Fwd: Re: Wayne Roderick Art Collection--Exhibit, Reception, & Sale] Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 18:05:59 -0700 This may well be of interest to some of you. Liz -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: Wayne Roderick Art Collection--Exhibit, Reception, & Sale Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 09:49:40 -0700 From: Robin Parer Barbara & Roland Pitschel wrote: > Please forgive a couple of typos in the message I sent out. > My list accidentally merged > Roger Raiche & David McCrory > Ron Lutsko > Sorry for the confusion... Electronic gremlins & challenged emailer... > Sorry!!! > --Barbara > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Barbara & Roland Pitschel > 99 Ellsworth Street > San Francisco, CA 94110 > 415-282-5066 > bpandrp@peoplepc.com > "The arc of history is long, but it bends toward justice." > --Martin Luther King, Jr. (Thanks to MoveOn PAC) > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Barbara & Roland Pitschel > *To:* Sean O'Hara ; Arleen Fraser > ; Holly Forbes > ; Dr. Frank Almeda > ; Sue Rosenthal > ; Bruce Peters (CalHort) > ; Bruce Peters (home) > ; Robin Parer > ; Lee McCaffree > ; Sean Hogan & Parker Sanderson > ; Annie Hayes, Annie's Annuals > ; Nora Harlow > ; Phyllis Faber > ; Bobbi Feyerabend > ; Leana Beeman-Sims > ; Linda Aurichio & Ellen Pearce > ; Louise Lacey > ; Sheffner, Margot > ; Kathy Kramer > ; David Amme > ; Betsy Flack > ; Linda Vorobik > ; Richard G. Turner, Jr. > ; Lawrence Currie > ; Anne Marie Malley > ; Warren Roberts > ; Barbara Ertter > ; Ted & Diana Kipping > ; Stew Winchester (DVC) > ; Stew Winchester (home) > ; Lucy Tolmach > ; Ray Deutsch > ; Ron Lutsko & David McCrory > ; Ernie Wasson > ; Maggie Ely ; > Jack Kramer > *Cc:* Lowry, Molley ; Kathleen Fisher > ; Barbara Pitschel > > *Sent:* Monday, September 12, 2005 4:07 PM > *Subject:* Wayne Roderick Art Collection--Exhibit, Reception, & Sale > > Dear Friends and Colleagues... > > As many of you are aware, in his living trust Wayne Roderick left > his collection of more than 120 botanical prints and other > botanical art work, as well as some botanical dinnerware to San > Francisco Botanical Garden’s Helen Crocker Russell Library of > Horticulture, to be sold to benefit the library. We have decided > to give the collection the best possible showing, and to provide > the best possible opportunity for all of Wayne’s friends and > colleagues to see the work and, if desired, to purchase a memento > of his life. The art work will be on exhibit in the library from > October 1 through December 30. Pictures that are hung can be > purchased at any time and picked up at the end of the show. Other > work, some framed, some matted, some just wrapped, will be > displayed in bins and may be purchased throughout the duration of > the show. > > To honor Wayne and celebrate his life, we will be hosting a > special reception and sale, including a small silent auction, at > the library on Sunday, October 16, from 3 to 6 pm. We are trying > to spread this information as widely as possible among our peers, > Wayne’s people, and others who would be interested. To this end, I > am mailing this to a broad spectrum of acquaintances. > > The attached MS-Word document is a copy of the front and back > sides of the postcard we have printed announcing the exhibit and > the reception. You can print it out and post it in appropriate > places, you can electronically post it on your web site, or you > can forward it to others you think might be interested. We have > printed a large run of the actual postcards. If you have a mailing > list or a few friends to whom you would be willing to send some, > or if you have a meeting or event where it would be appropriate to > pass them out, please let me know (including your mailing address) > and I’ll send you the number of postcards you request. > > If you can’t open the attachment for any reason, please advise and > we’ll figure out something else. > > This incarnation of this email is being sent (in no particular > order) to: > > Stew Winchester > > Ted Kipping > > Holly Forbes, UC Berkeley Bot Gdn > > Barbara Ertter, UC Berkeley Herbarium > > Warren Roberts, UC Davis Arboretum > > Frank Almeda, CalAcademy > > Annie Malley, CalAcademy Library > > Larry Currie, CalAcademy Library > > Lucy Tolmach, Filoli > > Richard Turner, Pacific Horticulture (announcement is in October > issue) > > Arleen Fraser, Heather Farms > > Sean O’Hara, Mediterranean Garden Society > > Bruce Peters, Cal Hort Society > > Ray Deutsch, Rock Garden Society > > Robin Parer, Hortisexuals > > Linda Vorobik, CNPS Fremontia editor > > Betsy Flack, Garden Conservancy > > Ron Lutsko & David McCrory > > Linda Aurechio & Ellen Pearce > > Ernie Wasson, Cabrillo College > > Maggie Ely > > Jack Kramer > > John Game > > Margot Sheffner > > David Amme > > Louise Lacey > > Kathy Kramer > > Phyllis Faber > > Bobbi Fererabend > > Nora Harlow > > Annie Hayes, Annie's Annuals > > Sean Hogan & Parker Sanderson > > Lee McCaffree > > Sue Rosenthal > > Leana Beeman-Sims > > The following are going to be or have been contacted separately: > > --CNPS: state office, as well as chapter presidents, newsletter > editors, publicity chairs, and webmasters. > > --Regional Parks Botanic Garden, Tilden > > --SF Botanical Garden staff, volunteers, members > > --Ken Monger, Michael Reina (managers of Wayne’s estate) > > Who am I omitting? Does anyone have an appropriate contact for the > Bulb Society? Please spread the word!!! > > Am compiling this at home, but please send responses to both my > work and home addresses: > > bpitschel@sfbotanicalgarden.org > and bpandrp@peoplepc.com > > > Thank you all!!! --/Barbara/ > > Barbara M. Pitschel > > Head Librarian > > San Francisco Botanical Garden Library > > Ninth Avenue at Lincoln Way > > San Francisco, CA 94122 > > 415-661-1316 x303 > > bpitschel@sfbotanicalgarden.org > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Barbara & Roland Pitschel > 99 Ellsworth Street > San Francisco, CA 94110 > 415-282-5066 > bpandrp@peoplepc.com > "The arc of history is long, but it bends toward justice." > --Martin Luther King, Jr. (Thanks to MoveOn PAC) > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > From pcamusa@hotmail.com Tue Sep 27 21:23:22 2005 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: Off Topic: Hurricane Rita Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 21:23:21 -0400 Joe- Thanks for the update. I've been thinking about Marcelle this summer. I've had quite a number of her crinum bloom this year after planting them out in October 2003. Please let us know when you hear news of Marcelle and Margie. Regards, Phil Andrews PS- I agree, nothing is tougher than a crinum (except maybe Zephyranthes)- I've had them take a Cat 5 that leaves them ragged and they've always come back. Zephyranthes just retreat underground and then bloom their heads off a few days later.

From: ConroeJoe@aol.com
Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [pbs] Off Topic: Hurricane Rita
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:02:38 EDT
>Hi Gang,
>
>I saw an aerial photo in one of today's newspapers showing several destroyed
>homes in Vidor, TX. I could help but worry about my friends there, among them
>Marcelle Sheppard and Margie Brown.
>
>I visited with both, just a week ago, on Tuesday, September 20, when
>Hurricane Rita was still only a possibility. Marcelle had been home from about a
>3-month stay in the hospital for a broken pelvis and some broken ribs. An earlier
>storm (this year) had weekend a tree that fell on her as she exited a car for
>a church function.
>
>So, Marcelle was home and wheeling in her chair like a happy kid; she could
>also get about on a walker. Margie, just a few miles away, has been a longtime
>Gulf Gardener, and often planted many of Marcelle's special Crinum, rainlily,
>or Hippeastrum hybrids--to grow them out and to help Marcelle judge garden
>performance under different conditions.
>
>Now, for sure, the storm has devastated their towns. There is really no way
>to get in to visit them or to know how they are doing. Surely, they got to
>safety in time, and from the reports I'm getting they will not have been allowed
>to return to their homes yet. In any event, much of the area is without
>electricity and temperatures have hovered near 100 F all week. Southeast Texas is
>no place to be without air conditioning.
>
>In time I hope to hear good news from Marcelle and Margie, that their houses
>were spared, and that their gardens remained mostly intact (how could anything
>pull a big old Crinum out of the ground?). But, I also know that the wind
>could have damaged their greenhouses, or blown away Marcelle's seed crop for the
>year, or totally leveled their homes. I wish them luck.
>
>
>LINK 1: Marcelle's Crinums
>http://marcellescrinums.com/index.html
>
>
>LINK 2: Crinums in East Texas: Notes From Marcelle Sheppard
>http://crinum.iconx.com/
>
>
>
>Cordially,
>
>Conroe Joe
>(100 F today [38 C], humid and sunny, Oxblood lilies in full bloom for 2-3
>weeks now)
>_______________________________________________
>pbs mailing list
>pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
>http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
From pekasky@earthlink.net Tue Sep 27 21:49:47 2005 Message-Id: <3659230.1127872187005.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Marilyn Pekasky Subject: Off Topic: Hurricane Rita Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 21:49:47 -0400 (EDT) Joe, please keep us informed as to their whereabouts and their situation. I'm sure we all would like to at least know they're OK. Marilyn -----Original Message----- From: ConroeJoe@aol.com Sent: Sep 27, 2005 7:02 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Off Topic: Hurricane Rita Hi Gang, I saw an aerial photo in one of today's newspapers showing several destroyed homes in Vidor, TX. I could help but worry about my friends there, among them Marcelle Sheppard and Margie Brown. I visited with both, just a week ago, on Tuesday, September 20, when Hurricane Rita was still only a possibility. Marcelle had been home from about a 3-month stay in the hospital for a broken pelvis and some broken ribs. An earlier storm (this year) had weekend a tree that fell on her as she exited a car for a church function. So, Marcelle was home and wheeling in her chair like a happy kid; she could also get about on a walker. Margie, just a few miles away, has been a longtime Gulf Gardener, and often planted many of Marcelle's special Crinum, rainlily, or Hippeastrum hybrids--to grow them out and to help Marcelle judge garden performance under different conditions. Now, for sure, the storm has devastated their towns. There is really no way to get in to visit them or to know how they are doing. Surely, they got to safety in time, and from the reports I'm getting they will not have been allowed to return to their homes yet. In any event, much of the area is without electricity and temperatures have hovered near 100 F all week. Southeast Texas is no place to be without air conditioning. In time I hope to hear good news from Marcelle and Margie, that their houses were spared, and that their gardens remained mostly intact (how could anything pull a big old Crinum out of the ground?). But, I also know that the wind could have damaged their greenhouses, or blown away Marcelle's seed crop for the year, or totally leveled their homes. I wish them luck. LINK 1: Marcelle's Crinums http://marcellescrinums.com/index.html LINK 2: Crinums in East Texas: Notes From Marcelle Sheppard http://crinum.iconx.com/ Cordially, Conroe Joe (100 F today [38 C], humid and sunny, Oxblood lilies in full bloom for 2-3 weeks now) _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From susanann@sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 27 22:54:22 2005 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: [Fwd: Re: Wayne Roderick Art Collection--Exhibit, Reception, & Sale] Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:55:18 -0700 **When messages are forwarded it might be best, for privacy's sake, to delete ALL the email names and addresses in the body of the forward. I've been harping on other lists about this for quite some time. Just received this warning on another list. I deleted the story because it's probably an urban legend, but the warning is good. >Please Remember: It is Important to remove all personal email addresses when forwarding items from this, or any other emails. Many of us have a great deal of information in our signature files that appear at the bottom of many of our messages. In addition, the blind carbon copy (Bcc) option makes the individuals you send email to unseen by all other recipients. E-mailers should also cut out ALL email addresses from "Fwd's" when forwarding the message on. You may have received unsolicited emails from individuals who have retrieved your email address via a forwarded message from a group. >This may well be of interest to some of you. >Liz > >-------- Original Message -------- >Subject: Re: Wayne Roderick Art Collection--Exhibit, Reception, & Sale >Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 09:49:40 -0700 >From: -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b From davidxvictor-08n0WBFJ8Cv0rG0o9dqvlClxbZthKfE@mailblocks.com Wed Sep 28 14:48:20 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Lilium on the WIKI Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:47:48 +0100 Dear all, A few weeks ago I put a lily that I had seen in China onto the mystery bulbs page. At the time, it was pointed out to me that Lilium nepalense did, indeed, grow in China as well as Nepal. Subsequently, Arnold Trachtenberg has been so kind as to let me have an extract of Haw's book on Chinese lilies so that I could sort out the detail. As a result, I have now moved the photograph to the Lilium section of the WIKI, with some comments. You can find the entry at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Lilium Best regards, David Victor From dells@voicenet.com Wed Sep 28 19:47:23 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: FW: Pacific BX 103 Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:47:45 -0400 ---------- From: "Dell Sherk" Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 18:56:31 -0400 To: Subject: Pacific BX 103 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 103" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: ... Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Mary Sue Ittner: BULBLETS/CORMLETS (all winter growing unless marked otherwise) 1. Brodiaea pallida cormlets 2. California native cormlets, probably Dichelostemma capitatum, but could be other species too 3. Calochortus uniflorus Gladiolus ecklonii -- Summer growing 4. Lachenalia carnosa 5. Lachenalia pallida 6. Lachenalia pustulata 7. Lachenalia sp. from BX seed- pustulata? 8. Lachenalia unicolor 9. Leucocoryne purpurea cormlets 10. Oxalis commutata -- Fall 11. Oxalis depressa MV4871 12. Oxalis incarnata 13. Oxalis luteola MV 5667 14. Oxalis obtusa pink 15. Oxalis obtusa MV4719d -- coppery pink 16. Oxalis obtusa MV 5516, yellow 17. Oxalis obtusa MV 7087 18. Oxalis obtusa peach -- 19. Oxalis (South Africa) Uli 54 -- 20. Oxalis sp. (South America) from Uli, magnifica? - Summer growing 21. Oxalis sp. (lost tag) 22. Romulea obscura substestacea cormlets From Mark Mazer: 23. Small bulbs of Lilium formosanum From Jerry Flintoff: 24. Bulbs of Colchicum speciosum 'Album' 25. Bulbs of Colchicum speciosum 'Atrorubens' Thank you, Mary Sue, Mark, and Jerry !! Best wishes, Dell From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu Sep 29 11:51:21 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: FW: Pacific BX 103 Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:51:19 +0000 Hi: The cycles for the BX > >From Mary Sue Ittner: >BULBLETS/CORMLETS (all winter growing unless marked otherwise) >1. Brodiaea pallida cormlets (W) > >2. California native cormlets, probably Dichelostemma capitatum, but could >be other species too (W) > >3. Calochortus uniflorus (W) Gladiolus ecklonii -- Summer growing > >4. Lachenalia carnosa (W) > >5. Lachenalia pallida (W) > >6. Lachenalia pustulata (W) > >7. Lachenalia sp. from BX seed- pustulata? (W) > >8. Lachenalia unicolor (W) > >9. Leucocoryne purpurea bulblets (W) > >10. Oxalis commutata -- Fall (W) > >11. Oxalis depressa MV4871 (W) > >12. Oxalis incarnata (W) > >13. Oxalis luteola MV 5667 (W) > >14. Oxalis obtusa pink (W) > >15. Oxalis obtusa MV4719d -- coppery pink (W) > >16. Oxalis obtusa MV 5516, yellow (W) > >17. Oxalis obtusa MV 7087 (W) > >18. Oxalis obtusa peach (W) > >19. Oxalis (South Africa) Uli 54 (W) > >20. Oxalis sp. (South America) from Uli, magnifica? - Summer growing > >21. Oxalis sp. (lost tag) (W) > >22. Romulea obscura substestacea cormlets (W) > > > > >From Mark Mazer: > > > >23. Small bulbs of Lilium formosanum (S) > > > > >From Jerry Flintoff: > > > >24. Bulbs of Colchicum speciosum 'Album' (W) > >25. Bulbs of Colchicum speciosum 'Atrorubens' (W) _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From dells@voicenet.com Thu Sep 29 16:45:37 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 103 CLOSED Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 16:45:04 -0400 All are gone. Packages should go out after the weekend. Enjoy, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From daffodil@xnet.co.nz Thu Sep 29 21:16:17 2005 Message-Id: <002401c5c55c$8ad47650$09301c3a@Dads> From: "Bill Dijk" Subject: Coll.of Narcissi small and miniature daffodils, Tropaeolum azureum Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 13:15:12 +1200 Hi Folks, Spring has definitely and truly sprung with daffodils and other spring flowering species popping up everywhere. I've had a few problems in the past ( broadband router) uploading images to the wiki, which was very frustrating to say the least. Having finally solved the firewall troubles, I have started uploading the first picture of a collection of small and miniature daffodils to the wiki, with many more to come The miniature species and hybrids daffies are of course one of my favourites. I have also uploaded another Tropaeolum azureum image, a glorious blaze of colour at the moment. Go and have a look at the Narcissi hybrid and Tropaeolum page. Enjoy. Bill Dijk Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. From susanann@sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 29 23:40:38 2005 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: Coll.of Narcissi small and miniature daffodils, Tropaeolum azureum Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 20:41:38 -0700 At 1:15 PM +1200 9/30/05, Bill Dijk wrote: > I have started uploading the >first picture of a collection of small and miniature daffodils to the wiki, >with many more to come > >I have also uploaded another Tropaeolum azureum image, a glorious blaze of >colour at the moment. >Go and have a look at the Narcissi hybrid and Tropaeolum page. **Bill's Tropaeolum azureum can be seen at http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Tropaeolum and the miniature narcissus at http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/NarcissusHybrids -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b From daffodil@xnet.co.nz Fri Sep 30 00:23:09 2005 Message-Id: <001001c5c576$a4302a80$5d01a8c0@Dads> From: "Bill Dijk" Subject: Coll.of Narcissi small and miniature daffodils, Tropaeolum azureum Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 15:59:39 +1200 Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Susan Hayek" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 3:41 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Coll.of Narcissi small and miniature daffodils, Tropaeolum azureum > At 1:15 PM +1200 9/30/05, Bill Dijk wrote: >> I have started uploading the >>first picture of a collection of small and miniature daffodils to the >>wiki, >>with many more to come >> >>I have also uploaded another Tropaeolum azureum image, a glorious blaze of >>colour at the moment. >>Go and have a look at the Narcissi hybrid and Tropaeolum page. > > **Bill's Tropaeolum azureum can be seen at > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Tropaeolum > and the miniature narcissus at > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/NarcissusHybrids > > > -- > susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/115 - Release Date: 29/09/2005 > > From Antennaria@aol.com Fri Sep 30 19:51:30 2005 Message-Id: From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Arisaema amurense - wiki photos Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 19:51:20 EDT I uploaded two photos to the PBS wiki showing the showy "fruit" structures on Arisaema amurense. Arisaema amurense is a widespread and diverse species from Asia, China, and Korea; the name "amurense" encompassing a variety of synonyms and variants. Typically the flowers are green striped with white, or brownish green or even dull purplish green, again with white stripes. The flowers are held on short stalks below or mingling with the foliage. I posted two photos taken in September showing the fruiting stalks. The first shows early fruiting, the "berries" still green, with some of them turning orange, and a few bits of foliage left. The second view shows the brilliant orange fruits fully exposed as the foliage has withered away. The dangling cluster of showy pinkish-red berries is Smilacina racemosa, or False Soloman's Seal, a native liliaceous plant here in North America (now relegated to the genus Maianthemum). http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Arisaema For those who want to know more about this easy-to-grow species, and to see photos of the flowers, check out the following web links: http://www.ibiblio.org/pfaf/cgi-bin/arr_html?Arisaema+amurense&CAN=COMIND http://www.plantdelights.com/Tony/arisaema.html http://www.wschowa.com/abrimaal/araceum/arisaema/arisaema1.htm Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From Antennaria@aol.com Fri Sep 30 20:08:11 2005 Message-Id: <20f.a8bad05.306f2d67@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Kniphofia 'Border ballet' Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 20:08:07 EDT Plants going under this name have very narrow foliage and a beautiful range of pastel color forms to choose from, including some nice pink forms. The plant overwintered well in my cold USDA Zone 5 garden, bulking up nicely and started flowering at the end of September. My plant has flowers that are pale yellow tinged with pastel melon orange color; subtle and beautiful. I have posted 2 photos to the PBS wiki at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Kniphofia Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types!